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View Full Version : Strut Mount wear/collapse limit ?



Ausmartin1
13-09-2008, 06:49 PM
Hi All,

I started to get a noisy strut on rebound off 10kmph speed humps on the RHS (other noise was fixed by Sway bar links from Whiteline for VXII)

On the Strut Mount - There is a Rubber support with bearing above each front strut.

Does any one please know the service limit ?
From other posts ~ 20mm is total failure from what I can understand.

I have approx 7-8mm movement from ground to wheels off ground.
When new it was it was virtually 0mm movement.
(Now mine are near 7 years old with nearly 60K of city driving).

A suspension place I rang says these are a wear item and by design they do wear & collapse.
I've gone through the service manual and can't find anything as to when a wear limit is reached and I am suprised that they wouldn't at least a 100K
After all if you took the car on some harsh country roads it appears you wouldn't even get to 20K - which I do find vey hard to believe that GMH would do that when the warranty was 3 years/100K.

At what point do I really consider replacing them / or put a quickstrut kit in + the harder Pedders 5851 ?
(Not keen on the non rubber types as the steering geometry requires these struts to pivot about a-bit, compared to other fixed -bolted mounting types.)

Anyone with more input/information, please feel free to write.

macca33
13-09-2008, 07:10 PM
I changed mine a couple of weeks ago and my brother's on his VY GTS also. Both were knackered - mine couldn't have been on for more than 60000k's either. On both occasions I used Nolathane brand strut-top bushes and new bearings.

If there is 8mm movement, it is time to replace them.

You will notice the difference in handling/steering straight away.

Cheers,

Macca

Ausmartin1
13-09-2008, 07:55 PM
Cheers Macca,

:goodjob:
So 60K looks a similar figure!, Looks like new struts and a fancy mounts will be going in.

All the best,
Ausmartin1

gasguz
13-09-2008, 08:40 PM
This fine thread by Swingtan might help you out in changing them

Australian LS1 and Holden Forums (http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=104282)

I will be doing the same in the next couple of weeks to my SS

cheers

macca33
13-09-2008, 08:57 PM
Good on ya Vince - I forgot about Swinga's informative how-to thread.

One thing that I would advise people using hand tools and not rattle guns, is to buy a decent 24mm ring spanner and a 10mm HEX - not double hex - socket, for undoing the top nut. You will need a long breaker bar on the socket to obtain enough leverage to hold the strut-top hex from spinning, whilst you crack the top nut.

Cheers,

Macca

macca_779
13-09-2008, 11:01 PM
Mine are worn out too but rather than replacing the bushes only I figure my springs are a bit sagged and my shocks are no doubt on their last legs too. So I'm going for Tein Coil Overs straight up.

Ausmartin1
14-09-2008, 08:37 AM
This fine thread by Swingtan might help you out in changing them

Australian LS1 and Holden Forums (http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=104282)"

:) Ta
Excellent thread & will do the whole strut as with age all spring get shorter.

theco
14-09-2008, 10:31 AM
..... whilst you crack the top nut

Macca

Do it BEFORE you jack it up (helps stop the shaft rotating while you crack the top nut)

Ausmartin1
20-09-2008, 07:46 PM
Hi All,

Put in Monroe Quiklstruts (GT Gas) Preassembled.

Note: Also mark brake disc to wheel stud relationship.


Brake calipers sat nicely on plastic buckets, but I did have to use a breaker bar to lever down the lower arms to easily remove the strut bolts and again to align the hub to the new strut - working carfully to preload with another floor jack a little so hub's camber adjusting bolt sits nicely against the new strut.
(After Wheel alignment was checked and suprise - No changes - within factory adjustment specs - Wooo Hooo.)


The Monroe kit didn't include the washers for under the nuts - so I reused those and installed new Holden dealer Bolts for the calipers - they had to be removed to get to the Strut ones. The struts are 85nm, the 100 nm then 90°
The Calipers are 85nm then 45° to yield (Stretch). Mark with texta -so you don't overdo.
Luckily I had seriouse impact wrench sockets and long breaker bars for all the new Torque to yield bolts!

Wow the difference ! cars riding a bit high like when new, but by god it tight,
Gone is the float on bumpy road even steering is better - easier

Like a new car - Cheers All. :goodjob: