Looking For Good Engine Oil

[LOCO]

Im after some good engine oil for my VX Calais
im gonna do a major service to it and just wanna know if anyone can recommend some good oil.



Cheers, Serg

[macca33]

Serg, do a search mate and see what has been written previously. For me, Castrol Edge 10w60.

Cheers,

Macca

[LOCO]

thanks for that macca
i just went out to buy castrol edge sport
gonna put some oil right now


Cheers, Serg

[BLACK 346]

If you want an LS1 that sounds like a sowing machine, ULX110.
Made mine as quiet as a mouse :)

[TommyVTss]

in my ls2 i use castrol edge sport 10w 60 hasnt let me down yet!

tom

[Deanss-v]

If you want an LS1 that sounds like a sowing machine, ULX110.


I don't know who would want that. :confused:

[WOMBIE]

If you want an LS1 that sounds like a sowing machine, ULX110.
Made mine as quiet as a mouse :)

That's very interesting mate....i'm reading up on it now.

[jws]

I use Joe Gibbs XP2, perfect for my application (0W-20). Joe has a full range of race bread high rpm, high horsepower, high temp capable oils for all applications.

[Stelth]

I also use edge 10w-60 and change it every 3,000Km to 4,000Km.

A bit pedantic, but most people on here know that I rev the stock LS1 to 7000 rpm with a blower hanging off the crank producing 15 psi and the motor has not complained yet.

Even if the engine does let go i am still a winner considering i have done over 20,000 km and almost 30 drags strip passes.

Not sure if the oil has anything to do with the engine being able to stay alive or not but, i don't dare change to a different oil and less frequency at this stage.

[BLACK 346]

I don't know who would want that. :confused:

You don't want a quiet donk? :confused:

[WOMBIE]

You don't want a quiet donk? :confused:

I do :wave:

So i'm assuming it quietens down valve train noise quite a bit yes!

[BLACK 346]

I do :wave:

So i'm assuming it quietens down valve train noise quite a bit yes!

Did with mine mate :)

[Wonky]

If you want an LS1 that sounds like a sowing machine, ULX110.

That makes it sound like if you use ULX110 your LS1 will sound like a sewing machine, hence the confusion for some people.

[BLACK 346]

That makes it sound like if you use ULX110 your LS1 will sound like a sewing machine, hence the confusion for some people.

Well, most sowing machines I have heard, including my mother inlaws
and my wifes are pretty damn quiet compared to an LS1, or LS2
for that matter :confused:
The wifes is a 25 year old Singer :)
Edit: Maybe I should have made it clearer for some, and said it
wont sound like a chaff cutter.

[keen]

some time ago street machine did some testing of oils (some sort of abrasive machine test) Royal Purple came out on top. Its what I use.

[Wonky]

Well, most sowing machines I have heard, including my mother inlaws
and my wifes are pretty damn quiet compared to an LS1, or LS2
for that matter :confused:
The wifes is a 25 year old Singer :)
Edit: Maybe I should have made it clearer for some, and said it
wont sound like a chaff cutter.

Must admit that I tend to think of most sewing machines as noisy and it seems others did too. The chaff cutter analogy would have been clearer as you said. :)

[RRossi]

I use Castrol Edge 5-30,


tryed the 10-60 and my ls1 didnt like it at all,


so back to 5-30 and I change it every 3-4k



to get that fresh oil feeling in my ride...... and I use eaither a Pure one or K@N oil filter.



RR

[Stelth]

tryed the 10-60 and my ls1 didnt like it at all,


RR

Just out of curiosity, what was it doing wrong?

Very interesting.

cheers

[IR8]

Recently Edge 10-60 for me too.....

Still quite on start as usual, but now I get valve train rattle as revs decrease when slowing to halt....1000-1500rpm..? Was worse after initial change but decreased slightly over 2500km's.(disappointing it was mentioned for best protection)... Just got 5-30w @ supa cheap special so will put that in soon to see how its goes...!

[BLACK 346]

Must admit that I tend to think of most sewing machines as noisy and it seems others did too. The chaff cutter analogy would have been clearer as you said. :)

No worries Wonky, I get what your saying now :)
I am also running the same oil in the Rex now,
bloke at the Outlaw Speed Shop with a Big HP rex
said he wouldn't run anything else. Did say if you
dont want to cough for the ULX, Castrol Edge is
the next best thing.

[Wonky]

Mine is just about due for a change (half way between 15k and 30k services) and I'm going to try the Edge 10w/60 this time. Currently using Edge 25W/50.

[VTR8Clubby]

some time ago street machine did some testing of oils (some sort of abrasive machine test) Royal Purple came out on top. Its what I use.

If you're thinking of the one that was in Street Commodores it was severely flawed and proved nothing. It was the incorrect test for engine oils. I think it was designed to test grease.

[chevy1]

Ulx 110 for me, have seen it quieten down a few noisy cammed up valve trains. Mine was'nt that noisy so the difference was a bit more subtle.

[RUN41T]

+1 for royal purple

[Tecca]

As summer is around the block, my car is reaching 300.000 km's! (will get rebuild next year). Im wondering what is the best oil for it? coz for winter i used 10W-50W and it seemed ok. The oil is just turning into a more black colour so next week a change will be required. Thanks in advance!

[Desertws6]

I have not seen 10w60 Castrol here in the States, if it is available I've never seen it. So no comment for that one.

I did use Castrol products in my old daily driver for 15 years and 180,000 miles (288,000 km) and never had a problem the car ran great until I sold it. I did have the heads off at 160,000 miles (256,000km) and the cylinders looked great with no noticable wear. The cylinder hatch pattern was still very noticable, and no oil consumption.

I basically got tired of driving it and wanted a new car.

Been using Royal Purple for many years now and have had good luck.

+2 for RP

Cheers,
Steve :cheers:

[RRossi]

Just out of curiosity, what was it doing wrong?

Very interesting.

cheers


It felt very tight if that makes sense?


didnt rev as smooth as it was very laggy going through the revs, and I always let my cars warm up before I drive off in the mornings,

Valve train was a touch noisier and so on, whent back to 5-30w only a week ago, and it revs alot smother, now, the car has done 114000kms so I thought I should step up to a 10-60 but it likes the 5-30 go figure? In the last Place I was working at they recomended a Mineral Oil of 20-50w they said that it was the best oil for the LS1's? at the end of the day I belive no matter what oil you use change it every 5k Minimum. for the small cost and the benifits are well worth it

RR

[hsv364]

At the end of the day its a personal preference ! I recon as long as its a fully synthetic oil you cant go to far wrong.. I used Valvoline in my last motor and worked great N/A and Blown ..
Will probly try Penrite synthetic 5 in the new combo as i have heard good reviews on this oil also ! As others have said a few people seem to have good results with the Castrol edge but i have never used it myself?


Clinton

[Wonky]

I've got to get out and buy some Castrol Edge 10w/60 this week and my lack of speech etc makes it impossible for me to ring and find out prices. Can people tell me if possible please what prices places like Autobarn, Supercheap etc currently have it for if they know? If one place is significantly cheaper I'll go there if not too far.

Thanks,
Gary

[BLACK 346]

I've got to get out and buy some Castrol Edge 10w/60 this week and my lack of speech etc makes it impossible for me to ring and find out prices. Can people tell me if possible please what prices places like Autobarn, Supercheap etc currently have it for if they know? If one place is significantly cheaper I'll go there if not too far.

Thanks,
Gary

I have never seen it cheaper than $59.95 Wonky, that was
at Autobarn, and never dearer than $69.95 :)

[Mungrel]

We get Elf oil at work - im gonna give that a crack next oil change.

[Blown 454 AWD]

It's not logical for a 10w60 to be nosier than something like a 5w30 as a 10w60 has double the film strength and hence double the protection, double thickness of oil holding load bearing surfaces apart.

Noise can only come from metal to metal contact.

vt2vx made an interesting comment a few months ago in a post that made allot sense, he said he'd noticed that when the oil in a, "not so clean" engine was changed to a thicker 10w60 oil the valve train sometimes got nosier. He thought that some of the small oil feed holes to the lifters could be partially blocked with sludge thus slightly starving the lifters of oil as the 10w60 being slightly thicker at 100C. A great observation, well done vt2vx!!

This would be the only explanation I would except when being told that a 10w60 made an engine nosier. It is mechanically impossible for a 10w60 to make an engine nosier than something like a 5w30.

All this being said and I hope understood it puts a huge emphorces on flushing your engine in between oil changes.

You should be using a Synthetic (full synthetic not a groupIII) in your LS series engine and go for an SM spec, I would use a 10w60 only in my LS series engines and have proven many times that it reduces wear significantly.

I have been up grading the "Mainlube Products For Performance Vehicles" area at www.Mainlube.com.au in particular the "Filtergram for Performance Vehicles" if you check you will see 2 Filtergrams I did for ACT-Cross 8 showing Mobil 1 and Motul, tomorrow I'll put some more up of engine oil showing the difference when using the Mainlube Synthetic Race Oil SAE 10w60, these Filtergrams will show much less wear, here is one (http://files.mainlube.com/files/Filtergram/LS1/7001%20Street%20Tuna%20-%20VX%20HSV%20TT.pdf) a TT with 700hp, the thread is here (http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=68469).

If the Mainlube makes it hard for you to get up after seeing the price, the next in line I'd run would be the Edge 10w60, if if make you motor noisy, give your motor a farkin good flushing because it should make it quieter.

I have not had anyone come up with a logical reason not to run a 10w60 in our engines, it has double the film of oil and double the protection.

A 0w30 is around 10-12 cSt @100C, a 10w60 is around 22-24 cSt @100C, even 22 cSt at 100C is about half way between penetrating oil and sewing machine oil in which at even 10 psi could not starve a clean engine of oil so its not too thick. The bloody manufacture would have to put warnings on the can if it was.

Hope this orientates this area a little for you guys.

Cheers

Steve

[SSDVL!]

hey keen,
where do u get royal purple from. can't stand the tapping anymore, and how much does it cost?

[Wonky]

I have never seen it cheaper than $59.95 Wonky, that was
at Autobarn, and never dearer than $69.95 :)

In that case not worth chasing around. Thanks. :thumbsup:

[vyc4b]

sorry if this is a stupid question, how does one go about 'flushing' their engine........?
cheers.

[macca_779]

sorry if this is a stupid question, how does one go about 'flushing' their engine........?
cheers.

Here you go Brian.
http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=64867

[vyc4b]

Good onya Macca, I'm keen to do this as my car is due for a service.............
Cheers mate.

[Blown 454 AWD]

Forgot to add that the reason for full synthetic is the base oil doesn't drop out as much crap (as a mineral does) and go for SM spec. as the additive package is more advanced especially the detergents, this helps keep the engine cleaner.

Cheers

Steve

[-GTS-]

No one seems to use Mobil 1 like HSV recommends...

Any particular reason? :confused:

[SV300]

From my research around the traps here in Brisbane, the Mobil1 is too slippery for the Gen series engines.

I have used GTX3 which is what was tested recently oveseas against (by AMSOIL) the others listed here, and for a mineral based oil, it held up rather well. Has great film strength and also a few other virtues.

This is even better when you consider its price and that you will probably change at half intervals (7500 kmls) as I will.

I was also under the impression that Mobil1 was best, but that was what " I thought" I knew until I talked to some oil engineers and engine builders. Mobil1 is good, just it is a better choice in some engines than others.

That's not to say Castrol 10W-60 is bad, but for my change intervals, costs and its performance (SM grade), it will do me.

Do some searchs on "google" under AMSIOL and oil testing, and see what they found. They did use a Mobil1 but it was and extended version not sold in AUS.

Thats what I have found.




James:)

[Stelth]

Great post once again Steve !


It's not logical for a 10w60 to be nosier than something like a 5w30 as a 10w60 has double the film strength and hence double the protection, double thickness of oil holding load bearing surfaces apart.

Noise can only come from metal to metal contact.

vt2vx made an interesting comment a few months ago in a post that made allot sense, he said he'd noticed that when the oil in a, "not so clean" engine was changed to a thicker 10w60 oil the valve train sometimes got nosier. He thought that some of the small oil feed holes to the lifters could be partially blocked with sludge thus slightly starving the lifters of oil as the 10w60 being slightly thicker at 100C. A great observation, well done vt2vx!!

This would be the only explanation I would except when being told that a 10w60 made an engine nosier. It is mechanically impossible for a 10w60 to make an engine nosier than something like a 5w30.

All this being said and I hope understood it puts a huge emphorces on flushing your engine in between oil changes.

You should be using a Synthetic (full synthetic not a groupIII) in your LS series engine and go for an SM spec, I would use a 10w60 only in my LS series engines and have proven many times that it reduces wear significantly.

I have been up grading the "Mainlube Products For Performance Vehicles" area at www.Mainlube.com.au in particular the "Filtergram for Performance Vehicles" if you check you will see 2 Filtergrams I did for ACT-Cross 8 showing Mobil 1 and Motul, tomorrow I'll put some more up of engine oil showing the difference when using the Mainlube Synthetic Race Oil SAE 10w60, these Filtergrams will show much less wear, here is one (http://files.mainlube.com/files/Filtergram/LS1/7001%20Street%20Tuna%20-%20VX%20HSV%20TT.pdf) a TT with 700hp, the thread is here (http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=68469).

If the Mainlube makes it hard for you to get up after seeing the price, the next in line I'd run would be the Edge 10w60, if if make you motor noisy, give your motor a farkin good flushing because it should make it quieter.

I have not had anyone come up with a logical reason not to run a 10w60 in our engines, it has double the film of oil and double the protection.

A 0w30 is around 10-12 cSt @100C, a 10w60 is around 22-24 cSt @100C, even 22 cSt at 100C is about half way between penetrating oil and sewing machine oil in which at even 10 psi could not starve a clean engine of oil so its not too thick. The bloody manufacture would have to put warnings on the can if it was.

Hope this orientates this area a little for you guys.

Cheers

Steve

[RED R8]

Steve could you tell me what it would cost roughly for a suitable Mainline oil for my cammed LS2 ? thanks mate.

[silvervyss]

No one seems to use Mobil 1 like HSV recommends...

Any particular reason? :confused:

Wont use anything else. My Ls1 had done over 155,000 kms, and doesnt use a drop of oil between changes.

[Wonky]

Steve could you tell me what it would cost roughly for a suitable Mainline oil for my cammed LS2 ? thanks mate.

Daz - see Australian LS1 and Holden Forums (http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=59145)

[RED R8]

Daz - see http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=59145
Thanks Gaz......and OUCH may have to go with something else. If it was a comp / race engine it is well justified but for mine it would be not needed.

[RRossi]

Steve

I have a Question for you?

In my younger years I spent a lot of time working with Honda's from a personal level to a commercial level with my own workshop, and one of the most interesting things that I learnt with Honda's that is (B series motors) is that you should never use an engine flush as there is always a chance that sludge can make its way to the valve train? I was always a bit sceptical about this and have always used an engine flush in my vehicles including my Hondas, and never had a problem but when I read the article and saw the interveiw from a reputable workshop in Japan (Spoon) I have stopped using oil flushes, there thought were that if the oil is changed regularly there should be less/no chance of sludge build up, therefore no need for an engine flush, then people in the industry have said on occassion's that oil flushes are nothing but kero and a few additives, but I like your idea of using nulon lifter free as a flush.


What are your thoughts?

On a side note they said that gearbox and diff oil was something that people tend to forget and they should be replacing more frequently as the fluid is not filtered.


RR

[Blown 454 AWD]

Steve

I have a Question for you?

In my younger years I spent a lot of time working with Honda's from a personal level to a commercial level with my own workshop, and one of the most interesting things that I learnt with Honda's that is (B series motors) is that you should never use an engine flush as there is always a chance that sludge can make its way to the valve train? I was always a bit sceptical about this and have always used an engine flush in my vehicles including my Hondas, and never had a problem but when I read the article and saw the interveiw from a reputable workshop in Japan (Spoon) I have stopped using oil flushes, there thought were that if the oil is changed regularly there should be less/no chance of sludge build up, therefore no need for an engine flush, then people in the industry have said on occassion's that oil flushes are nothing but kero and a few additives, but I like your idea of using nulon lifter free as a flush.


What are your thoughts?

On a side note they said that gearbox and diff oil was something that people tend to forget and they should be replacing more frequently as the fluid is not filtered.


RR

RR

They're talking porky pies about flushing however, you should only use a quality flush as like lifter frees that are left in oil, they can damage the engine if they contain kero or diesel or solvents, this is probably what they are concerned about.

When we made the Mainlube 245 Flushing Oil we grabbed one of our light good quality mineral engine oil formulations and smacked it over the head (big time) with special detergents and dispersant's that will dissolve sludges and hold in the crap suspension etc. These extra cleaning additives we add are not normally in engine oils and are designed for cleaning only.

To do better than not doing anything, you could get a cheap supermarket engine oil (around SAE 10w30) and add a flushing additive to this.

Of course Mainlube 245 would clean much better however, costs more as well.

Back in the dark ages (when I did my time on the bench) the general rule of the thumb was change you diff and gearbox oil every 24,000 klms. This would be the case with most lubricants (except Mainlube)

Cheers

Steve

[RRossi]

Thanks for your Thoughts Steve

appreciate you taking the time to anwser my question

RR

[Wonky]

I have never seen it cheaper than $59.95 Wonky, that was
at Autobarn, and never dearer than $69.95 :)

To save me the hassle of getting my walker in and out of the car a couple of times I got my daughter to ring the local Supercheap and Autobarn today for me. Supercheap $69.95 and Autobarn $77.95 (or $77 something anyway). Went to Supercheap.

[BLACK 346]

To save me the hassle of getting my walker in and out of the car a couple of times I got my daughter to ring the local Supercheap and Autobarn today for me. Supercheap $69.95 and Autobarn $77.95 (or $77 something anyway). Went to Supercheap.

Good stuff, got to be happy with that :)

[Rocket22]

Mate I use Penrite HPR 10 good stuff!

[vyssbeast]

Well i've had a weird experience ...

After changing the oil to magnatec 10w40 (was wanting 10w60 but they didnt have it and i couldnt be stuffed waitng) ... the car is alot smoother, and i dont mean the motor is quieter or reving freer, but the tex is no longer a bitch to keep smooth :confused:

Could it be a change in the way the motor is behaving is affecting the way the flywheel is grabbin the clutch and allowing a nicer drive??

I thought it was in my head but there is a definate difference there.

[SirNemesis]

Did you change anything else during the oil change? Air filter, etc?

I can't see the change of oil resulting in such a noticable difference to drivability.

[Louie_D]

No one for Redline either?

[vyssbeast]

Did you change anything else during the oil change? Air filter, etc?

I can't see the change of oil resulting in such a noticable difference to drivability.

Not a single thing... oil + oil filter

That is all ... and i swear its smoother ... maybe im getting better? But its definatly easier to handle than before ... much less effort required to keep it smooth, but dont get me wrong if i dont pay attention its still rough, just doesnt seem as bad as before.

[Pickles]

No one seems to use Mobil 1 like HSV recommends...

Any particular reason? :confused:

I do--I use exactly what HSV recommends, & change it as per the service book-never have a problem--no noise, no oil usage.
Cheers, Pickles.

[RAVENLS1]

i use penrite sin 0-60