Run in time: To flog it or not?

[bigdogdazza]

Hey Guys I would like some feedback as to giving my new ss m6 ute a bit of a hard time. I havent yet but was talkin to a guy today that said if you dont give it some curry it will always run a bit sad? I would like to know if this is true as I thought that kind of computer learning your driving style thing was a ferrari or supercar type deal, and I am concerned about engine drivetrain wear leading to premature failure.:1peek::confused:

[duke5700]

Don't be stupid with it but don't be gentle. Personally, I would drop the oil and filter early on, say 1500km's then again at 5000kms. Try and keep your revs varied for a while. But other than that they really are ready to go from the word go.

[planetdavo]

From my experience, the ones that recommend the "flogging" option are the ones that flog their cars all the time anyway.
Everyone else treats their new rides with a little more respect.

[iloveholden]

Don't be stupid with it but don't be gentle. Personally, I would drop the oil and filter early on, say 1500km's then again at 5000kms. Try and keep your revs varied for a while. But other than that they really are ready to go from the word go.

What he said plus do a search mate as this has been discussed at length :)

[Wonky]

Gets asked all the time........

See Australian LS1 and Holden Forums (http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=95356)
Australian LS1 and Holden Forums (http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=83828)
Australian LS1 and Holden Forums (http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=76451)
Australian LS1 and Holden Forums (http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=65346)

The general consensus seems to be wait till the oil is warm (very important, even after running in) then drive it as you will once it's run in except don't stay at constant speed on the highway/freeway too long. Vary your speed.

[diabolic]

From my experience, the ones that recommend the "flogging" option are the ones that flog their cars all the time anyway.
Everyone else treats their new rides with a little more respect.
A LOT of tuners also recommend this..

[duke5700]

There is flogging it and then there is using moderate amounts of throttle. Banging off the limiter for minutes on end, and or exceeding 4500rpm while cold would be my definition of flogging it. Using WOT, once its warm but not holding the gears all the way wouldn't hurt it in the slightest. You want a positive ring seal, which requires good combustion pressures. Ie large throttle opening earlier on in the rev range.

They come out of the box with good tolerances these days... your not grinding off kg's of metal.

[planetdavo]

A LOT of tuners also recommend this..
A lot of tuners flog their own cars....:lmao:
A bit of mechanical sympathy has always been considered beneficial since the model T came out. It is true that old cars definitely needed more respect than the new ones, but still...
I guess the big thing is whether an engine would be an oil burner or a rattler or whatever which ever way you run it in. Where's the proof either way? This question is really just another one of those "opinion" questions, like oil brands, fuel brands and so forth.

[duke5700]

A lot of tuners flog their own cars....:lmao:
A bit of mechanical sympathy has always been considered beneficial since the model T came out. It is true that old cars definitely needed more respect than the new ones, but still...
I guess the big thing is whether an engine would be an oil burner or a rattler or whatever which ever way you run it in. Where's the proof either way? This question is really just another one of those "opinion" questions, like oil brands, fuel brands and so forth.

I'm not sure its a proof thing, more of how the engine was assembled(is it a friday afternoon engine) combined with the engine builders knowledge as to how it will turn out.

I'm only relaying what a retired engine reco guy once said to me. I don't know any different or have never bothered to test it. He simple words where pay attention to factory clearances and torque settings, quadruple check them. Then when running an engine in, use mineral oil to begin with, prime it well both oil and fuel. Get it started quickly and be gentle on it for 20 mins of easy driving. Then straight on the dyno or street for 5 3/4 throttle runs to 25% short of redline, using engine braking to slow the car down. Then increase it to 5 100% throttle runs 25% short of redline using engine braking to slow the car down. Then its open slather.

[bigdogdazza]

Thanks guys for the morale and sane support as I dont believe in thrashing my new debt into the ground. I must admit that this so called car guru drives a 02 clubbie and has rebuilt diff, gearbox and 3 clutches so I guess thats not normal? When can the run in period be typically called over?:confused:

[Vulture]

There is flogging it and then there is using moderate amounts of throttle. Banging off the limiter for minutes on end, and or exceeding 4500rpm while cold would be my definition of flogging it. Using WOT, once its warm but not holding the gears all the way wouldn't hurt it in the slightest..

About the most succinct and best answer I have read for a while.

[duke5700]

Thanks guys for the morale and sane support as I dont believe in thrashing my new debt into the ground. I must admit that this so called car guru drives a 02 clubbie and has rebuilt diff, gearbox and 3 clutches so I guess thats not normal? When can the run in period be typically called over?:confused:

Its not normal, though I have broken about the same amount of things. It's not going to wear anymore greatly after the 5k oil change.

[bigdogdazza]

Thanks for the advice:) I have racked up around 3500kms now and waitin for my appointment for servicing, asked the dealer what they actually needed my ute for half a day for and the reply was JUST TO LOOK, no oil change, filters nothin! Why even bother? Guess I will have to service the girl myself using genuine holden filters of course so dont blow warranty, but when should I change the gearbox oil?

[TR33VV]

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

[duke5700]

Thanks for the advice:) I have racked up around 3500kms now and waitin for my appointment for servicing, asked the dealer what they actually needed my ute for half a day for and the reply was JUST TO LOOK, no oil change, filters nothin! Why even bother? Guess I will have to service the girl myself using genuine holden filters of course so dont blow warranty, but when should I change the gearbox oil?

Gearbox oil is supposed to be in it for the life of the box. Me personally, I got rid of the auto trans fluid they use and ordered some mainlube for it. Its not to everyones taste(read its bloody expensive $300 odd smackers) but it was more than worth it for the reduction in wear, the improvement in shift action and reduction in noise. It almost feels like it should now :).

Diff is the same, life of the diff, though again I replaced with with Mainlube products. They are a sponsor here. Mind you keeping this in perspective I do drive my car to within an inch of its life on the track, but even still on a street car that see's spirited driving I would use it. Do you need Mainlube? Probably not. Is it the best you can get sure is.:goodjob:

[bigdogdazza]

Thanks for the heads up on the mainlube whilst I wont be drivin to extreme it certainly will see a load of kms and I guess what could be called spirited driving as I kinda miss my {dare I say} rx3 13b turbo lots of fun! but mainly a work ute with attitude.And after 3000kms or 2 and a half weeks driving I am noticing rather notchy type feel and noise from clutch or box or both?

[Evman]

I can only speak from experience with aeroplane engines.

People who have a new or reconditioned engine that baby the engine always end up having compression issues, excessive oil usage and often reduced cylinder life (cylinders are individually replaceable on the vast majority of aircraft piston engines). Those who hammer the engine from the get go for the first 25 hours or so, then fly normally have much better sealing inside the cylinders, improving compressions and reducing oil consumption, and usually result in longer cylinder lives.

Was talking about this to a marine diesel mechanic and he said they do the same thing sort of thing with the boat engines. Tie the vessel to a mooring and go hammer and tong for a few hours, making sure there's no excessive heat build up and such of course, then they do a full check on everything and recommend to the customer they give it hell for a bit, then just go back to the usual routine. Both marine and aeroplane engines require regular operating temps before any of these shenanigans of course ;)

I've never had to run in a car engine, but I know that'd I'd be driving on the harder side of the line from my experience :)

[Vulture]

My cars have always been run in 'hard' but that is different from a flogging. From the showroom straight to PowerTorque/Walkinshaw for a tune and cam. To me, 'flogging' implies a lack of mechanical sympathy - as mentioned: bouncing off the limiter, thrashing when cold, labouring the engine at low rpm etc. Accelerating hard through the gears, particularly the higher gears seems to be the trick (got to watch the speed limit of course as speeds easily get out of hand).

[seldo]

Many many cars over many many years have convinced me that the harder you drive them, the better they go. With of course the normal mechanical sympathy issues of waiting until it's warm, and not bouncing it off the limiter, but drive them hard early and they will most definately perform better for longer. Absolutely no doubt!

[gavlotic]

I agree with what's been posted so far. give it a bit of stick no need to flog it with hard launches but definitely giv it a taste of some higher rpm help bed the rings in and not cause cylinder glazing. babying it like driving miss daisy style is not going to giv it any favours in fact u'll prob cause u more probs later on.

cheers,

gav

[VX2VESS]

some rings could be screwed already with high delivery K's, lots of stating and moving around K's won't bed rings in too well.

Really you need to start with a motor that not been turned over yet for a good ring bedding process.

[bigdogdazza]

Thanks guys now Im convinced to give her a bit of curry, obviously no redline launching and limiter bouncing but as many have stated to drive it with a bit of enthusiasm! Just gotta keep one eye out for those who would rather I pay for their annual ball as these things tend to pick up some speed in the higher gears eh!:goodjob::jester:

[kpop]

Hey Guys I would like some feedback as to giving my new ss m6 ute a bit of a hard time. I havent yet but was talkin to a guy today that said if you dont give it some curry it will always run a bit sad? I would like to know if this is true as I thought that kind of computer learning your driving style thing was a ferrari or supercar type deal, and I am concerned about engine drivetrain wear leading to premature failure.:1peek::confused:

hmmm, go spy on a holden dealership and see how they drive during their pre delivery inspection drives

(full throttle pretty much)

[Jarhead]

I think it's pretty much been coverred.

Being a manual you need to avoid labouring the engine in the wrong gear. I think it does more damage than keeping the revs up a little in a lower gear.

I make avery bad passenger in a car. Whenever I'm a passenger in a car and the driver is doing 60km in 6th gear uphill I just feel like slapping them:rofl:

[185iboy]

Flog it under 5000rpm.


With life time oils, from experience if you're gonna change it, change it straight up its actually worse for the box/diff if you decide to switch up sometime down the track.