Engine Oil Flushing

[VZ_V8]

Bit of background info.

My car is an 06 L98 Thunder. Has done just over 15,000kms. Oil was changed at I think 3000km at holden by previous owner. I changed the oil at 10,000km with Castrol Edge 10w-60. Now its due for its 15,000km oil change. I am once again putting Castrol Edge 10w-60 in.

What is the general consensus on using an engine oil flush such as Nulon - Engine Flush and letting the engine idle for 15 mins. Is it worth it? Or should I just drop my oil whilst its warm, change the filter and fill it up again?

Cheers,
Tim

[WOMBIE]

Prior to using the Mainlube product in my beast,i put some of that nulon flush in the existing oil and then flushed again with a cheap motor oil.

Imo it does help to free up contaminants in your engine and won't hurt to do it.........also if your looking for a little piece of mind then why not :)

[Evman]

I use it every oil change too :)

[Hi Octane]

Problem is shit gets caught in the oil pick up.

[Drewie]

Problem is shit gets caught in the oil pick up.

Not a big fan either, if the oil is changed every 5000km with a good quality oil with a good detergent package and a new filter I can't see the need for it.
As 'Octane' above says who knows where shit might get caught up, also there will be residual flush left in the motor so what does that do to your new fresh oil, do you do a flush to get rid of the flush? I personally wouldn't worry on a motor that has had good maintenance and regular changes, might be different if the motor had been neglected and was dirty and needed cleaning up. Just my personal thoughts others may love the stuff.

[Evman]

Problem is shit gets caught in the oil pick up.

There wont be any shit in there if you flush and change the oil regularly :)

[Dillzio]

I flush my engine oil out with kerosene. I add 500mL then let it idle for 10-15 mins, then drop the sump plug. It makes the oil really thin so it just pours out, you'll get to drain out every last drop of the old crap and the engine will love you for it.

Just be sure not to put the engine under load or drive it hard while you've got the kero in there, as you might not have enough lubrication to prevent engine damage.

[ADAM 26]

as snoop dog says " drop it like its hot"

so just go for a drive to the bottle o` and back, drop the oil, and while your waiting have a nice cold beverage!

in a stock motor it will make sweet f/a difference as long as its reguarly serviced.

[Blown 454 AWD]

When using a flushing additive you should use it with a clean cheap supermarket oil or you risk carryover of derogated oil and debris into the new oil.

This will pay you back at a later date with engine longevity and lack of lifter clack at later dates.

Kero is a no no for flushing as its far too aggressive and you risk metal to metal contact and component damage when doing so.

I have been saying to use additives like Nulon however, my bad, I just did a search on a MSDS on nulon flush and it to is mostly Kero

http://www.nulon.com.au/files/msds/MSDS-eof-Engine_Oil_Flush.pdf

Looks like I'll have to come up with a solution for all here, leave it with me.

here is a paper on flushing

Australian LS1 and Holden Forums (http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=64867)

Cheers

Steve

[Dillzio]

HA, I had no idea that kero actually was in the engine flush!
I guess my organic chemistry lessons must have paid off.

Now perhaps I could reinvent the wheel?

[Peter B - CV8]

I change my oil & filter every 5,000 k's. Every second change I use the Nulon Flush & drop it out with the old motor oil. This stuff disperses pretty rapidly (evaporation) - so I wouldn't be too worried about any residual leftover etc. The Nulon "lifter free" is a bit different & is designed for longer term use & takes approx 500k's to work.

[VZ_V8]

Cheers for the help guys.


When using a flushing additive you should use it with a clean cheap supermarket oil or you risk carryover of derogated oil and debris into the new oil.

This will pay you back at a later date with engine longevity and lack of lifter clack at later dates.

Kero is a no no for flushing as its far too aggressive and you risk metal to metal contact and component damage when doing so.

I have been saying to use additives like Nulon however, my bad, I just did a search on a MSDS on nulon flush and it to is mostly Kero

http://www.nulon.com.au/files/msds/MSDS-eof-Engine_Oil_Flush.pdf

Looks like I'll have to come up with a solution for all here, leave it with me.

here is a paper on flushing

http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=64867

Cheers

Steve

When you say use it with cheap supermarket oil. What weight are you talking?? Will one 5L container be enough to flush given the engine usually takes 6l?

[white lie]

I usually just drop the old oil hot, fill it up with a cheap oil, run for 10-15 minutes (quick drive around the block), drop that and fill with good oil.

I've also heard of using diesel engine oil to flush with as it contains a 'cleaning agent' but never used it myself. Surely its less agressive than the Nulon stuff or Kero.

[VZ_V8]

Since i've already started a thread. Is there any other fluids that require changing before a track day. I have a track day in two weeks and want to do everything that needs doing, next weekend.

Bearing in mind that the car has only done 15,000kms so I would think things like radiator fluid would be ok. Also I flushed my brake system only about a month ago so that should be fine as well.

Cheers,
Tim

[BLACKVE]

Since i've already started a thread. Is there any other fluids that require changing before a track day. I have a track day in two weeks and want to do everything that needs doing, next weekend.

Bearing in mind that the car has only done 15,000kms so I would think things like radiator fluid would be ok. Also I flushed my brake system only about a month ago so that should be fine as well.

Cheers,
Tim

Just did a track day myself as oil was only 3500km's old i left it in and changed it after a days thrashing, also flushed brake fluid with some hi temp fluid before day and changed after.

With a car thats done only15000km's why flush engine????? is oil dirty????? Such a fresh engine with 5000km oil changes should be pretty clean.

How's the 10w 60 edge seem?????

Cheers Paul

[Micks]

Agree do not use Kero very bad...cheap oil yes or a flush only with straight Diesel than a full oil change after. Would only recommend this for a filthy engine that has not had regular maintenance.

Cheers
VYT

[VZ_V8]

Just did a track day myself as oil was only 3500km's old i left it in and changed it after a days thrashing, also flushed brake fluid with some hi temp fluid before day and changed after.

With a car thats done only15000km's why flush engine????? is oil dirty????? Such a fresh engine with 5000km oil changes should be pretty clean.

How's the 10w 60 edge seem?????

Cheers Paul

Thats why I'm asking the question :lol: was seeing what peoples thoughts were on the matter. Oil is not dirty at all.

10W60 has been great so far. Was recommended by a number of people on here so I gave it a try. Engine is very quiet and runs smooth.

Just out of curiosity what type of brake fluid did you use?

Tim

[BLACKVE]

Nulon extreme performance brake fluid, worked well for me at mallala in sa did 50 laps total and no probs in fat(1800kg VE)

[Ausmartin1]

Stick with the Good quality oil, don't Oil flush or use any of the Nulon stuff = scam.

Any specialist in the field of Motor Oil does not put Nulon voodoo $hit in their engines.......
Wonder WHY ?

I'll go with the learnered experts in the field and stick to just quaility engineered/formulated oil like what you are using or the cheapest Castrol Magnetec and your rreally can have piece of mind you a really doing the best for your motor in both wear prevention life & performance!
Here endith the sermon on oil.
:soap:

[Micks]

Best advice=Do not use any Nulon product in a keeper it's crap always has been.

Cheers
VYT

[poolkeeper]

I put Mainlube flushing agent in mine, 5L worth. 22,000km on the clock

Mainlube flush went in, one day after the engine oil got changed to crappy penrite stuff.

Went in normal ish colour, came out black..

[Blown 454 AWD]

The Mainlube flushing oil is the go however, a little $$$ so depends on your budget.

When I say cheap supermarket oil, around a 20w30 (not too thick) and it must carry at least a SJ, SL spec, that would be fine for 30 minutes with no load.

We can make a flushing additive concentrate (with the same non solvent, non flammable safe detergents as my Mainlube 245 Flushing Oil) however, my biggest problem is distribution, we're not geared up to send out large amounts of small items, its too hard, courier is my only easy way and in most cases would double the product cost.

This could be added to an oil like I've described above, then you could all flush every time you change oil, big benefits.

Repco or some one would be good, but again, it takes allot to get these guys to stock your product, we need it available off the shelf somewhere??

That's the problem.

Cheers

Steve

Mainlube Superior Maintenance Lubricants Pty Ltd
Mainlube 175 Synthetic Race Oil SAE 10w60 (engine)
Mainlube 154 Synthetic Solid Boundary E P Gear Oil SAE 75w90 (gearbox)
Mainlube 154 Synthetic Solid Boundary E P Gear Oil SAE 75w140 (diff)

www.Mainlube.com.au

[Wonky]

Went in normal ish colour, came out black..

Sorry, not sure what you are therefore implying?

[poolkeeper]

Sorry, not sure what you are therefore implying?

Went in the same colour as normal engine oil, with a slight white like colour, If I recall correctly..

Came out thin, like water. Colour was black. Assuming this is the crud, deposits thats was in the engine.

[WLDLS1]

ok so whats the verdict? to flush or not to flush.
if to flush. why?

if not to flush. why?

[Gza]

Depends on your situation, regularly serviced? or not? in my case i was way overdue for a service so i flushed my oil, P/W steer,brake and clutch fluid today. Flushed the oil for a good hour and a half, and the shit that came out.... der god never again!!!!