Is a highstall torque-converter required for cam upgrade?

[Dillzio]

hi all,

was thinking about getting a stage 2 cam for my WH, something like crow cam 871275 or 871202 (second and third on the list) at:
http://www.crowcams.com.au/media/catalogues/37.0%20LS1%20CHEV.pdf

I know that doing a cam shifts the car's power range, so that it has less power at low rpm, and often needs a highstall to get going. Would a relatively mild cam like this one still require a highstall if a 3.9 ratio diff is used to help on the take off a bit?

-cheers

[SSV8TE]

Gday mate,
A high stall is like having an auto clutch sort of. It will allow you to say put your left foot on the brake , right foot on the go pedal and to speak bring the revs up while not moving and when releasing the brake with left foot power away from a start point of higher revs. Does that make sense i hope.
With the cam choices you have noted you wouldnt need one to be able to drive if that was your question but it will help with as i said above.
A small stally say around the 2500 rpm would be great for these cam choices but again not a necessity.
Best of luck and im sure some of the auto boys here will give you better info than mine.
Best of luck,
Andy.

[Oztrack Tuning]

If the tuner can tune the car to behave at 800rpm idle or lower, then you wont need a stall. But it will give it more useable torque if you do and make it push far more gently against the brakes. 224 230 is usually the limit for a car without a stall in VT-VZ at least, the VE has a bigger stock stall so can comfortably have more than 800 against the brakes.

[HX76LS2]

I have been led to believe that with a stally you need to be out of stall at your regular daily driving speed. So if you don't see any highway and you mostly sit on 60kph then your stall needs to be at a lower RPM. So if at 60kph in third you are doing 3000rpm then your stally needs to be lower than this i.e 2500 or 2800 rpm. I have been told this is to ensure you don't cook the box. Is this right?

Stu.

[Dillzio]

I have been led to believe that with a stally you need to be out of stall at your regular daily driving speed. So if you don't see any highway and you mostly sit on 60kph then your stall needs to be at a lower RPM. So if at 60kph in third you are doing 3000rpm then your stally needs to be lower than this i.e 2500 or 2800 rpm. I have been told this is to ensure you don't cook the box. Is this right?

Stu.

My understanding was that this is the case on older stall converters, but on the newer ones it has the electronics and software to detect when you're just cruising, so it will make the converter lock-up. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

[Oztrack Tuning]

Good STREET converters need to have great lockup. With ours once people are above a speed that corresponds in '4th gear locked' to something like 1100rpm in small cams or 1600rpm in big cams, then i usually set the converter to lock and the lockup clutch can withstand quite a large amount of torque. The problem is that not all converters can be this well behaved on the street. In a street car you would want to be careful with big converters that dont lock and i guess with all of them a good trans cooler should be used.

[SHANESVZSS]

thats very true , i have a dominator 4500 and on the freeway on 110km/h it doesnt break stall still about 80-90% throttle , its great , however with pwr botton its very responsive and will break stall at around 40% throttle or less , i think for ME its set up perfect.. i drove my mates vk with a 3500 stall not a lockup and it wasnt a good drive at all!!

[Dillzio]

Tuned so that in economy it locks up unless you give it heaps, and in power it will stall up more easily? That's brillient!