Castrol Edge 0w-40w synthetic oil

[cosmo vyss]

I was on the Castrol website and it recommends this oil for LS1 engines.

Castrol Edge Sport 0w-40

Has anyone used it?
Would you use it?
If not why wouldn't you use it?
Is the 0w to thin for our conditions? (Considering the manual says we should use 5w-30w or 10-40w)

I know alot of ppl use the Edge 10-60.
Is this a tad on the thick side for our engines?
How much Hp do you loose from using a thicker oil?
Does the thicker oil take longer to come up to temp and start protecting the engine?
Do ppl change there oil ratings during the different seasons? ie thicker is summer and thinner in winter.

[mrgasket]

I use and recommend mobil 1 5w30. Ive used this since day 1 in my vxss and put 6litres+ in it. This is the oil recommended in the manufacturers manual. The other oil is ok if you prefer castrol.

[A^K^T]

The Castrol Technical Data Sheets (TDS) (http://www.tds.castrol.com.au/default.aspx) shows information on the oils that makes it a little easer to compare , there's a rating at 100c & 40c .
Mobil 1 5W-30 data sheet (http://www.mobil.com/Australia-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil1_5W-30.asp)

Castrol Edge sport 0w40__40c-77.5 , 100c-13.1
Castrol Edge sport 5w30__40c-71.4 , 100c-12
Castrol Edge sport 10w60_40c-168 , 100c-24
Mobil 1 5W-30___________40c-169 , 100c-11.3

[cosmo vyss]

The Castrol Technical Data Sheets (TDS) (http://www.tds.castrol.com.au/default.aspx) shows information on the oils that makes it a little easer to compare , there's a rating at 100c & 40c .
Mobil 1 5W-30 data sheet (http://www.mobil.com/Australia-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil1_5W-30.asp)

Castrol Edge sport 0w40__40c-77.5 , 100c-13.1
Castrol Edge sport 5w30__40c-71.4 , 100c-12
Castrol Edge sport 10w60_40c-168 , 100c-24
Mobil 1 5W-30___________40c-169 , 100c-11.3

What so the numbers actually mean? I had a look at the TDS but its all clear as mud.

[Blown 454 AWD]

What so the numbers actually mean? I had a look at the TDS but its all clear as mud.


Your engine oil runs (when the motors warmed up) at around 100C, the 40C viscosity (temperature) would be passed within 30 seconds from cold start up.

So it means that the 0w40s, 5w40s & 5w30s are running at around half the viscosity at 100C compared to a 10w60. This means a 10w60 has twice the film-strength at running temperature which = much less touch and hence less wear.

I have never seen evidence where a 10w60 has caused any problems at running temps, just means in the snow (where I've still not seen an issue) it may pay to warm your engine for 1 minute before beating. (which we should anyway, especially with a large performance engine)

I have forum members on many forums running 1300 cc engines on 10w60 with no issues giving me feed back that these small engines appear to be running a better performance with the 10w60, go figure.

0w40 (@40C) is the viscosity oil is advertised at to sell it.

100C spec is the temperature / viscosity the oil runs at under normal driving conditions.

The thicker lubricant Film-strength reduces wear (bigger thickness oil film holding a thicker hydrodynamic (hydraulic wedge) film between 2 moving components)

You could go too thick, there is a point where the less wear advantage is over ridden by too much viscosity, 10w60 is not too thick for LS series engines, they love it!!!

Cheers

Steve

[BLACKVE]

It's strange how the castrol edge 0-40 seems to go on sale but the 10w-60 never does:vpo:

Yes i run edge 10w-60 in my SV8 after cam change seems good so far, and with temps in the 40C range of late i'd say the 0-40 is a bit thin for a LS engine

[feistl]

It's strange how the castrol edge 0-40 seems to go on sale but the 10w-60 never does:vpo:

The 10w60 is a group 4 full synthetic oil. The 0-40 is a group 3 synthetic oil... meaning rather than being pure synthetic is a bit of a "fake". Its only given the synthetic rating by adding a heap of additives to a mineral oil.

There is a legal loop hole allowing G3 oils to be marketed as synthetic.

Good news for you is, the 10w60 is a PROPERLY good oil, and is much much better for your engine in comparision.

General rule of thumb is, if its less than $~65 its a G3 oil and not very good. If its $70 or above its a proper quality oil and will protect your engine for longer.

[255-LS1]

Edge 10-60 going in mine today. From all reports it seems to be the shit.

But yer 10-60 never seems to be cheap LOL, oh well i love my car so its not trouble.

[redvxr8clubby]

Your engine oil runs (when the motors warmed up) at around 100C, the 40C viscosity (temperature) would be passed within 30 seconds from cold start up.

So it means that the 0w40s, 5w40s & 5w30s are running at around half the viscosity at 100C compared to a 10w60. This means a 10w60 has twice the film-strength at running temperature which = much less touch and hence less wear.

I have never seen evidence where a 10w60 has caused any problems at running temps, just means in the snow (where I've still not seen an issue) it may pay to warm your engine for 1 minute before beating. (which we should anyway, especially with a large performance engine)

I have forum members on many forums running 1300 cc engines on 10w60 with no issues giving me feed back that these small engines appear to be running a better performance with the 10w60, go figure.

0w40 (@40C) is the viscosity oil is advertised at to sell it.

100C spec is the temperature / viscosity the oil runs at under normal driving conditions.

The thicker lubricant Film-strength reduces wear (bigger thickness oil film holding a thicker hydrodynamic (hydraulic wedge) film between 2 moving components)

You could go too thick, there is a point where the less wear advantage is over ridden by too much viscosity, 10w60 is not too thick for LS series engines, they love it!!!

Cheers

Steve


Steve, I am hearing what your saying and seen previous threads where you said the same thing, one question though, why do Holden/ HSV recommend a 10w/30 - HSV recommending Mobil One? I haven't tried 10/60. I think it's about time I give it a go. Your recommendation stands regardless of use of the car - essentially in my case daily driver for a LS1 '02 VX II Calais (70,000 K's, and weekender for '00 VX Clubby (86,000 K's but engine rebuilt around 30 something thousand K's)?

[Blown 454 AWD]

Steve, I am hearing what your saying and seen previous threads where you said the same thing, one question though, why do Holden/ HSV recommend a 10w/30 - HSV recommending Mobil One? I haven't tried 10/60. I think it's about time I give it a go. Your recommendation stands regardless of use of the car - essentially in my case daily driver for a LS1 '02 VX II Calais (70,000 K's, and weekender for '00 VX Clubby (86,000 K's but engine rebuilt around 30 something thousand K's)?


Raising engine temps (now 90-93C instead of the old 80C) and light viscosity have the advantage of assisting with lowering emission, this has enough advantages for manufactures to jump on board.

Most of our cars aren't emission compliant after the average tune so this area doesn't concern most of us, especially when you modify as well.

Unfortunately raising the engine temps thins your oil even more, then using 10w30 oils on top, certainly decreases protection @ 100C.

10w60 is fine for your engine.

Cheers

Steve

[cosmo vyss]

Your engine oil runs (when the motors warmed up) at around 100C, the 40C viscosity (temperature) would be passed within 30 seconds from cold start up.

So it means that the 0w40s, 5w40s & 5w30s are running at around half the viscosity at 100C compared to a 10w60. This means a 10w60 has twice the film-strength at running temperature which = much less touch and hence less wear.

I have never seen evidence where a 10w60 has caused any problems at running temps, just means in the snow (where I've still not seen an issue) it may pay to warm your engine for 1 minute before beating. (which we should anyway, especially with a large performance engine)

I have forum members on many forums running 1300 cc engines on 10w60 with no issues giving me feed back that these small engines appear to be running a better performance with the 10w60, go figure.

0w40 (@40C) is the viscosity oil is advertised at to sell it.

100C spec is the temperature / viscosity the oil runs at under normal driving conditions.

The thicker lubricant Film-strength reduces wear (bigger thickness oil film holding a thicker hydrodynamic (hydraulic wedge) film between 2 moving components)

You could go too thick, there is a point where the less wear advantage is over ridden by too much viscosity, 10w60 is not too thick for LS series engines, they love it!!!

Cheers

Steve


So basically Steve what you are saying is the 0w is the oils thickness at startup and the 40w is the thickness at operating temp. So if a car is only doing short trips (5-8klm) and not really getting hot so to speak then a thinner oil would be better and cars that run for say 20 minutes plus each trip and thicker oil would be better.
I understand the the holden guys like the 5-30 for emmisions and fuel economy reasons.

[Blown 454 AWD]

So basically Steve what you are saying is the 0w is the oils thickness at start-up and the 40w is the thickness at operating temp. So if a car is only doing short trips (5-8klm) and not really getting hot so to speak then a thinner oil would be better and cars that run for say 20 minutes plus each trip and thicker oil would be better.
I understand the the Holden guys like the 5-30 for emissions and fuel economy reasons.

Your car is up to temp in no time, 20 minutes trip would mean at least 75% of the run your engine is up to temp, I would prefer a 10w60 for that job.

I don't see any lack of lubrication in a cold start up with a 10w60, thicker viscosity gives better film strength before oil pressure arrives and thicker also means less oil drains off when stopped so more oil and protection before the oil pressure gets there.

When the oil pressure light goes out you have oil pressure to all the necessary areas, just crack an oil pipe and see how long it takes to leak whilst at pressure, not very long!!

My oil pressure light goes out within 1 second.

Cheers

Steve

[the metal]

I realize this is an old thread, but for the sake of someone who might do a forum search one day...

I am using Castrol Edge 0W40, and I think it is a great oil. My donk has 160 thousand on it, and I've tried a few oils, mobile 1 5W30, penrite SIN 0W70 etc.

One thing I noticed back when I was hunting for oil, was that even though the edge 5W30 has a higher cold rating, that edge 0W40 is actually both thicker when hot AND COLD. Still a worthy trade off considering it thins down nice and quick and protect more once warmed up. The 5W30 is actually slightly thinner than the 0W40 when cold, but alot thinner when hot. I guess they just call it a 0W40 because the cold rating is so much thinner than most 40 weight oils are cold.

The main benefit of the edge 5W30 is that it's quieter on startup, due to the thinner cold viscosity which climbs through the oil galleries almost instantly. That said, the 0W40 isn't far behind, and its only in winter that I would consider possibly changing to the 5W30 to avoid that cold morning death rattle.

Dan.

[One tonner]

The main benefit of the edge 5W30 is that it's quieter on startup, due to the thinner cold viscosity which climbs through the oil galleries almost instantly. That said, the 0W40 isn't far behind, and its only in winter that I would consider possibly changing to the 5W30 to avoid that cold morning death rattle.

Dan.

I was of the thinking it would be the other way around for cold start up.
5W30 would be thicker on start up than 0W40, yes.

[Craig93]

Im currently using the 10w60 castrol edge but coming into winter now here in NSW should i change it up to a 5w30 maybe? thanks

[feistl]

If you live on the top of Mount Kosciuszko it might pay to change the oil, however if you live somewhere that doesn't see constant temperatures below freezing i would stick with the 10w60.

[macca_779]

If you live on the top of Mount Kosciuszko it might pay to change the oil, however if you live somewhere that doesn't see constant temperatures below freezing i would stick with the 10w60.

Agreed. It doesn't get that cold in NSW. Now if it were in Alaska where they run engine blankets at night plugged into power posts that make car parks look like drive ins. Then that would be different


Sent from my iPhone 4 using Tapatalk

[the metal]

I was of the thinking it would be the other way around for cold start up.
5W30 would be thicker on start up than 0W40, yes.

I was of the same thinking, until I actually checked the viscocities. Even though the 0W40 sounds like it has a thinner cold and thicker hot than the 5W30 it doesn't. I guess its more like a 5W40 or 10W40.

I think they only call it a 0W40 because it so much thinner when cold than say magnetec 10W40. When you directly compare the two castrol edge oils (5W30 vs 0W40) when cold, the 5W30 is thinner, hence better on startup. My reasoning with the use of 0W40 is that its so close, and once warm it has better protection and compression on a worn-in engine.

Dan.

[QldKev]

Im currently using the 10w60 castrol edge but coming into winter now here in NSW should i change it up to a 5w30 maybe? thanks

10w is rated to -29c, you should be ok.
5w only gets you to -34c.

Here's one reference for it
http://www.aa1car.com/library/oil_viscosity.htm

Once you engine is up to temp, the thermostat regulates it's operating temp, so internally winter is the same as summer.

QldKev

[the metal]

10w is rated to -29c, you should be ok.
5w only gets you to -34c.

Here's one reference for it


Once you engine is up to temp, the thermostat regulates it's operating temp, so internally winter is the same as summer.

QldKev

Although it is true that once at operating temperature the oil is the same in summer and winter, the problem with thick oil on cold startup is that the engine may run unlubricated for longer, say 4 seconds instead of 1 second. It comes down to the temperature difference between your winter morning and summer morning, because here in WA winter mornings get down to 5 deg but summer often has lows of nearly 30 deg. Its a decent variation, and you can hear the lifters carrying on for minutes in winter.

I guess what I'm saying is horses for courses, and if you live in a stable (no pun intended:jester:) climate then I wouldn't bother. I just know I'd never run a 0W60 in my car on a 5 deg morning:hide: