Penrite oil for T56

[LS1-5.7]

Ok , for those of you contemplating the same, I'm putting some Penrite Manual Gear Oil 70 in the transmission this weekend so will let you know how it is. Have considered all the others and weighed up price over performance and this was the best choice. I'll probably get another referall to mainlube but as good an oil as it is, it is simply out of my budget. The Penrite should come in at about $60 if I can locate some, as it is proving to be a bit rare :hide:

[decoupe]

For around $70 , why wouldn't you put Transmax Z in which is what Tremec recommend ?

[nick_]

About time someone tried it. Another one most probably don't know about is Nulon's 80w Smooth Shift MGO. Good luck mate.

-Nick.

[LS1-5.7]

decoupe, transmax Z was a strong contender for a while but after some thorough research I've heard that it does not do much for noise suppression in the transmission which is one of my objectives ... That and the fact I've never been a fan of ANY castrol oils. Just personal choice is all.

Nick, the nulon was the 2nd of my final 3 choices but even less people have tried it than the penrite. That's not to say I won't be trying a tube of G70 if I see the need.

Time will tell I guess. Will keep you posted

[VX2VESS]

About time someone tried it. Another one most probably don't know about is Nulon's 80w Smooth Shift MGO. Good luck mate.

-Nick.
i've been using this in a A4 and power steer for a while, no issues never needed a rebuild on the box...

Now its in the M6 ve.slight improvement sound about the same.

reading the nulon application guide it says also use G70 additive on manual boxs...mmm might try that...
http://www.nulon.com.au/applications.php#Five

Some vehicle manufacturers are specifying the use of automatic transmission fluid (ATF) in their manual gearboxes. ATF is much less viscous than conventional 'extreme pressure' (EP) gear oils and consequently aids the overall fuel efficiency of the vehicle. This and lighter, easier gear changes are the advantages. The disadvantage of using ATF is premature wear due to the lack of EP additives and lower film strength of the lubricant. The use of Nulon Manual Gearbox & Differential Treatment (G70 (http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Manual_Gearbox_and_Diff_Treatment/)) is particularly desirable in these gearboxes to increase the film strength and extreme pressure characteristics of the ATF. (do not be confused and use Nulon Automatic Transmission Treatment (G60 (http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Auto_Transmission_Treatment/)) for this application).

Nulon Manual Gearbox & Diff. Treatment (G70) with polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) will help provide smoother, easier gear changes, especially when cold. G70 reduces noise and wear, and extends manual gearbox and diff life. G70 is compatible with all lubricants including synthetic gear oils and automatic transmission oils used in gearboxes.

[nick_]

i've been using this in a A4 and power steer for a while, no issues never needed a rebuild on the box...



It's not a ATF? Or have I misread that? :confused:

[VTR8Clubby]

I though that the manual transmission oils were a big no no for the T56??
I think it's because of the materials used in the synchros.

[LS1-5.7]

I have asked the question about the synchros direct to Penrite tech and they assured me the oil was specifically designed for Tremec boxes and was synchro friendly. It lists T56 as one of the suitable transmissions for this oil on the bottle. That alone is enough "documentation" should anything go wrong. I'm certainly not saying that this oil WILL be the best ever and may even underperform, but merely justifying the logic of my decision to try it. I do short trips to work and back everyday (9 kms) and
2nd gear only becomes usable halfway there. In any event, it could hardly be worse than the 75,000 km old Dexron 3 that's in there now !

Anyway, I'll be able to provide an acurate result after the weekend. :)

[mikek73xu1]

I have asked the question about the synchros direct to Penrite tech and they assured me the oil was specifically designed for Tremec boxes and was synchro friendly. It lists T56 as one of the suitable transmissions for this oil on the bottle. That alone is enough "documentation" should anything go wrong. I'm certainly not saying that this oil WILL be the best ever and may even underperform, but merely justifying the logic of my decision to try it. I do short trips to work and back everyday (9 kms) and
2nd gear only becomes usable halfway there. In any event, it could hardly be worse than the 75,000 km old Dexron 3 that's in there now !

Anyway, I'll be able to provide an acurate result after the weekend. :)

Ill be watching with interest here - im the same as you cant afford the Mainlube [bugger] but this has to have better wear properties than ATF.I think their diff oil might be worth a look too.
Mike.

[Smitty]

I though that the manual transmission oils were a big no no for the T56??
I think it's because of the materials used in the synchros.

my thoughts zactly...
(and I have heard of rebuilds coz of the use of normal manual gearbox oils ending up destroying bits in the box
my tremec service manual specifically warns against using them)

await this with interest....:)

[VTR8Clubby]

I actually have about 4 1/2L of mainlube oil sitting in my garage that I can't use. I put it in my box hoping it would help the problems I was having but it didn't.(Not a problem with the oil, the box was just beyond redemption via an oil change). I did about 400km's and decided it was time for a rebuild. I saved all the oil to re-use but the re-conditioner would only warranty it if I used the TansmaxZ.

Anyone want some lightly used mainlube gearbox oil?:jester:

[decoupe]

I actually have about 4 1/2L of mainlube oil sitting in my garage that I can't use. I put it in my box hoping it would help the problems I was having but it didn't.(Not a problem with the oil, the box was just beyond redemption via an oil change). I did about 400km's and decided it was time for a rebuild. I saved all the oil to re-use but the re-conditioner would only warranty it if I used the TansmaxZ.

Anyone want some lightly used mainlube gearbox oil?:jester:

This should give you the answer ....

[VX2VESS]

It's not a ATF? Or have I misread that? :confused:
ooops when i search it came up with thenulon synthetic atf that what i have been using

[VX2VESS]

I put some g70 additive in today....mmm much better so far, quieter and easier smooth changes.... and that was a shortish trip to the local woolies.

i guess Nulon advertise correctly....

will see over the next week............

Car was going better too, but i did some cold air modifications, changed the engine oil, added a cooler stat and new coolant at the same time i added the G70. then went for a drive..

i was sceptical the G70 would do anything, but that was the best gear changes its ever done.

[nick_]

Phew! *sigh of relief* Haha.. When I read that I was hoping you meant something else... :p

[LS1-5.7]

Ok, the results are in :)

As mentioned, I was going to change my transmission oil from ATF to Penrite manual gear oil 70. The Penrite oil was considerably thicker than the Dexron lollywater that came out which explains the following results. Changed the oil yesterday and drove about 40 kms that day and drove another 30 today. Initial observations when changed were; less gearbox chatter @idle, reduced front bearing noise, improved shifting but not quite perfect. After the first 40 kms things improved considerably as the oil was working it's way through the box.

Then today, the big test. Cold start: the absence of gearbox chatter and bearing rumble was remarkable and you'd swear that someone has transformed your SS into a Calais ! Then the first change into 2nd for the day and again you ask "is this the same car ?" Overnight the already impressive results were again improved another 50% IMO due to the oil working it's way into all areas of the box and it's internals. Overall noise @ 60 and 80 km/h substantially reduced to almost zero !

The rest of the drive home today was something I have not yet experienced in this very much fussed over car. The driveline in general is quieter and the "lash" in the box and selectors is gone, vanished ! Liken it to stirring a cup of water to one filled with very warm honey if you like and maybe that will give you a better picture of why it works so well. So if you want a yes or no answer to is it worth a try ? Most definately yes. My expecations were exceeded and I'm very impressed. Ended up paying a grand total of $25 per 2.5 litre bottle so $50 all up. This result and Penrite's guarantee it will NOT affect the synchros has to be worth a try.

My excitement and praise are not due to any financial interest or affiliation with the Penrite company, but a simple appraisal of a very good product :)

[duke5700]

Good read, funny that real manual gear oil makes the gearboxs work better.

P.S I went for the mainlube product ;) One of the best things I have done to my car behind brakes and the tru-trak.

[LS1-5.7]

Good read, funny that real manual gear oil makes the gearboxs work better.

P.S I went for the mainlube product ;) One of the best things I have done to my car behind brakes and the tru-trak.

I dont doubt it but cost was a very important factor as I'm sure it is for many. Anyway, hope this helps some towards making a decision :)

[duke5700]

I dont doubt it but cost was a very important factor as I'm sure it is for many. Anyway, hope this helps some towards making a decision :)

I have much faith in the Nulon products and was going to use it. If it wasn't for the influence of a forum sponsor that I respect I wouldn't have done it. $300+ bucks or whatever it was can be spent elsewhere quite easily. It would be nice to do a comparo between them. How the boxes feel, and possibly if Mr Mainlube is interested a filtergram test of each product just to show what, if there is even a difference.

[VX2VESS]

i notice Penrite list Penrite manual gear oil 70 for pre VE but not VE.

[Blown 454 AWD]

I have much faith in the Nulon products and was going to use it. If it wasn't for the influence of a forum sponsor that I respect I wouldn't have done it. $300+ bucks or whatever it was can be spent elsewhere quite easily. It would be nice to do a comparo between them. How the boxes feel, and possibly if Mr Mainlube is interested a filtergram test of each product just to show what, if there is even a difference.

Lets hope Mr Penrite is onto it and doesn't fuk tranny's (no pun intended) :)

I'm happy to carry out Filtergram on both your T56's at around 20,000 klms

The result will be around 50% of the metal you would find when using an ATF, which is an improvement of course.

The results with the Mainlube 154 Synthetic Solid Boundary E P Gear Oil SAE 75w90 @ 32,000 klms on the Mainlube oil is shown here is zero metal (http://mainlube.com/cms/uploads/File/5176%20Steve%20Box%20SB%2052.pdf), product would perform excess of 100,000 klms in the application shown with no metal (my old car) and I don't drive that hard :1peek: Well, they did put 3 LSD's in it under warranty before 10,000 klms :)

More Filtergrams showing ATF in the T56 at http://mainlube.com/cms/index.php?page=Filtergrams_For_Performance_Vehicle s

So when I check (with the normal products) at 20,000 klms and see metal, an oil change needed as we don't want to circulate metal as this will speed up fuking the T56.

So should be better than ATF hands down (if it doesn't react)

I would (at a guess) say that at 100,000 klms on the Mainlube 154 would be at least 5 x 20,000 changes with another gear oil to achieve a similar result eg: lack of metal in the oil and damage to the box.

So not a patch on the Mainlube 154, kinda looks like you get what you pay for :)

However, this is one of the worlds nastiest applications for an over-driven machine.

Cheers

Steve

[duke5700]

Thanks for the reply Steve, the last gearbox you want to check for metal is mine :1peek:.

Between the race track, drag strip and so forth it sees some serious punishment. However it still shifts perfectly and is quiet bar a noisy master cylinder. It was 100,000kms old before the Mainlube went in. The so called oil that came out was rather dark and had metal in it. It didn't shft well and was noisey. It felt like a a brand new box after the flush and oil change. Knowing that @ big revs I can slam another gear and it will slid in everytime would of been enough for an improvement for me, the bonus of it being quiet and feeling better under hand is above and beyond my expectations.

I will put the penrite in my brothers car and I will judge the feel difference and report back. Both cars are now 100+k kms. I think a filtergram test would be unfair on anything other than a new boxes with each oil?

[VX2VESS]

how do you flush a manual to swap to gear oil. just drain and refill?

Is the VE box different to pre ve?

[duke5700]

I didn't do it. Manual gearbox oil smells :lol:

From memory, Sonny sent me the Mainlube and some flushing oil. Flushed from the reverse switch, and filled from the reverse switch.

Feel free to correct me it was 2 years ago I think.

[LS1-5.7]

how do you flush a manual to swap to gear oil. just drain and refill?

Is the VE box different to pre ve?

Just drain the oil out of it and refill with cheap clean ATF. Run for 15 mins and drain again. Then fill up with your chosen new oil.

The VE still runs a tremec T56 so it should all be exactly the same.

[VX2VESS]

How is the box with some more K's on it now? still good?

[LS1-5.7]

Youbetcha :) have only done about 300 k's since, but the initial qualities are all still there. I may even try some singear 80 in the diff. No doubt will deliver the results if and when I do.

[VX2VESS]

sounds good then...

VE has remote linkages to the box, not that makes it that different i guess. not sure why they did that....

[LS1-5.7]

I put some g70 additive in today....mmm much better so far, quieter and easier smooth changes.... and that was a shortish trip to the local woolies.

i guess Nulon advertise correctly....

will see over the next week............

Car was going better too, but i did some cold air modifications, changed the engine oil, added a cooler stat and new coolant at the same time i added the G70. then went for a drive..

i was sceptical the G70 would do anything, but that was the best gear changes its ever done.

Yeah I have heard good things about G70 and apparently it works wonders. Used it in my XU1 diff many years ago and it went well.
I mainly wanted to use a different base stock oil than ATF so went with the Penrite. Hey, if I add G70 to the Penrite it may even change gears all by itself .... :jester:

[HYMEY]

I'm going with the Penrite next, 4.5L (half litre over full)

A box builder in Sydney said that M6s could die prematurely with ATF, Now with a synthetic atf and slightly extra oil in the box to help it splash more to the top, one would think thats ok. Weather or not the damage is occuring from incorrect service intervals or lack of or just the plain effects of ATF I dont know. A big M6 box builder in the states run dexron III in all there race boxes and insists on using it, some other places like EP oils, this box builder in NSW tells me that the oil he uses has no effect on damaging the syncros and he uses Nulon smooth shift, We put it in my mates M6 VZ and works well.

I am inclined on trying the penrite 70w EP oil as they have pushed the fact its safe and tested and I feel its time for a change.

[NeishaVESS]

I'm going with the Penrite next, 4.5L (half litre over full)

A box builder in Sydney said that M6s could die prematurely with ATF, Now with a synthetic atf and slightly extra oil in the box to help it splash more to the top, one would think thats ok. Weather or not the damage is occuring from incorrect service intervals or lack of or just the plain effects of ATF I dont know. A big M6 box builder in the states run dexron III in all there race boxes and insists on using it, some other places like EP oils, this box builder in NSW tells me that the oil he uses has no effect on damaging the syncros and he uses Nulon smooth shift, We put it in my mates M6 VZ and works well.

I am inclined on trying the penrite 70w EP oil as they have pushed the fact its safe and tested and I feel its time for a change.


Ive just done the change myself too the Penrite manual Gear oil 70, specifically made for boxes like the Tremec T56.. I wouldnt go by what oil race cars use as they build them on a regular basis and arent looking for the Gearbox too last for 200,000kms.

Have a read of my results on post #19

http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?p=1690656#post1690656

[bush_basha]

Hows the box going now ls1-5.7, still nice and quiet and easy to change the gears?

[LS1-5.7]

Hows the box going now ls1-5.7, still nice and quiet and easy to change the gears?

Sure is, it would have to be one of the best $50 I've spent for ages. :)

[NeishaVESS]

Mine's still going good aswell, ive probably done around the 1000-1500kms mark on it, even if its not as good as the mainlube probucts the Penrite gearoil 70 is better protection then the normal ATF..

[stew297]

hey LS1 5.7, where did you buy the penrite 70w from? I went to my local yesterday and they wanted $46.00 for just 1 2.5 litre bottle..

[vxclubbie]

same i would like to know where you got the oil from for $50.00

[vxclubbie]

also some one mentioned to put half a litre of oil through the reverse switch so when you put the switch back in do you use plumbers tape for a seal or some other tape

[LS1-5.7]

Guys, I bought mine from an Autopro at homebush in Sydney and it was $24 for 2.5 litres. Some thread tape would be ok for the reverse light swith if desired when refitting.

[Micks]

That's bloody good value considering alternatives.

Cheers
VYT

[macca33]

Bit of a thread dig.....:hide:

I put some of the Penrite MGO70 into my T56 last week and it is going VERY well. Noise is lower and the shift is smoother than with the Transmax Z.

Well worth the $70 and the hour or so to change it over.

cheers

[D_BLOCK]

Youbetcha :) have only done about 300 k's since, but the initial qualities are all still there. I may even try some singear 80 in the diff. No doubt will deliver the results if and when I do.

Last month I went all Penrite products just because they had the Sin range which I hadn't seen before and after a bit of research some good results were happening (also old mate at auto barn looks after me). The sin 80 was the most noticeable in the Diff, reduced noise, and the common knock has gone. I also went for the 0-50 Sin for the engine, I actually wanted the 5-50w or even 10-50W and a few weeks later the really cold weather has settled in so may change it again next month in case its too light. But I can say it is def looser and feels more responsive. Also the slightly extra cost of the sin gear 80 works out almost the same price as other brands in that you dont need the additive because its allready in it .

IMO its a good combination.

[PESSV]

I've asked this before with no joy, here we go again.

Can anyone tell me what they recommend for fluid or oil changes with the VE T56 if any? Only thing I can find is "check for leaks". I've heard they don't say anything about changing it, basically it's a sealed unit and don't touch as far as Holden is concerned. Hate to think they reckon the fluid lasts indefinately.

[GMMAD]

ah crap I should have read this thread earlier I just filled mine up with penrite sin atf
I should have went the gear oil

[VTR8Clubby]

I've asked this before with no joy, here we go again.

Can anyone tell me what they recommend for fluid or oil changes with the VE T56 if any? Only thing I can find is "check for leaks". I've heard they don't say anything about changing it, basically it's a sealed unit and don't touch as far as Holden is concerned. Hate to think they reckon the fluid lasts indefinately.

Holden say it's filled for life. ie, no oil change required.
and yes, it is stupid to think that the oil will last indefinitely.

[bush_basha]

to the guys that put the Penrite in, ls1-5.7, neishaVESS, macca33 how are you finding it after a few months of it, keen to hear your responses, thanks

[NeishaVESS]

to the guys that put the Penrite in, ls1-5.7, neishaVESS, macca33 how are you finding it after a few months of it, keen to hear your responses, thanks

Still going perfect, has been doing its job since I put it in, quieter and easier changes. Im still happy with the move to he Manual Gear Oil 70 from Penrite.

Shaun.

[Evman]

I have pentrite HPR30 in the car, as recommended by the bloke that put the entire package together. No complaints here :)

[VYSHSV8]

Been running Penrite in my cars for yrs :):) never had any probs

[macca33]

All very good here also. Running like a dream.

cheers

[vr5speedv6]

How's cold shifting compared to the ATF?

[LS1-5.7]

Yes I concur also :) still as good as the day it went in. Have recommended it to about 6 others that love it as well.
Cold shifting is 100 % improvement over the dexron (my main reason for changing it)

[bush_basha]

what about racing and shifting in at high RPM, if anyone has done that, has it gotten a little easier?

[Cmycv8]

All very good here also. Running like a dream.

cheers

I was looking at the Mainlube option but its pricey and I am PPPRRRIIIIICEY but heard good things.

My trans is 120k old and makes a hell of a noise once warmed up. Will this help at all and also, do you need to flush the unit pre Pen 70?

[VX2VESS]

none of the commy v8 recommended Penrite oils list the diff oil they are all '-' or see owner manual

manual gearbox proof off the site

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs/118%20MGO%2070%20Proof%20of%20Performance.pdf

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs/114%20MANUAL%20GEAR%20OIL%2070.pdf

[macca33]

How's cold shifting compared to the ATF?
No worries at all and I've had some minus temps.

cheers

[vr5speedv6]

Thanks guys, I'll have to try this oil out :)

[bush_basha]

Did you guys do any kind of flush for it?

[duke5700]

I did flush with whatever Mr Mainlube sent. I bought it through Sonny and had a local workshop do it.

[VX2VESS]

so how much for this stuff ??

was going to get some today sure it said $68 for 2.5 litres only so left it to check with you guys first.

manual gear oil 70 full synthetic it was.

[macca33]

If I recall correctly, it cost me about $70 for 5lt. $68 for 2.5lt is TOO much.

cheers

[NeishaVESS]

Depending on which place you go but anywhere between $50-$70 for 5ltrs is about right, you cant get it in a 1x5L so you will get it in 2x2.5L containers.

Shaun

[Cmycv8]

Depending on which place you go but anywhere between $50-$70 for 5ltrs is about right, you cant get it in a 1x5L so you will get it in 2x2.5L containers.

Shaun

I really need to do something about my trans, did you flush by any chance?

[NeishaVESS]

I really need to do something about my trans, did you flush by any chance?

I did flush it, I just used cheap Dextron 3 SCA oil Calibre brand I think was only $20. Put that in and drove it through the gears for about 25mins, came home and dumped it and then put the fresh Penrite in.

Shaun

[VX2VESS]

thanks guys I"ve put this off long enough got to try it....

[deano23x]

I'm about to Put nylon smooth 80 in mine this week! Will let you guys know results

[VX2VESS]

manual gear oil 70 full syn in now....

just went around the block and a bit. at first about the same as far as shifting goes, but noticeably quieter than ever. then shifts started getting better and better as the oil worked in. so quieter and better so far

see how it goes for a few days, hopefully gets better and better.

didn't flush it as not that long since new fluid was in, came out clean.

diff oil to do next Penrite 80 full syn... had it but that was enough for one night after work. also washed the car first tonight, dirty after some rain today.

[VX2VESS]

Trip to work today..well so far so good shifts are much better, box is much much quieter almost silent. why did i take so long to get around to it amazing really, better give it more time to be sure i guess, i thought it was fixed last time with the additive etc.

no problems with cold start that was good also.

mmm they should have this from new

[Cmycv8]

Went to go get some, no product and is a special order.....:vpo:

[Ghostrider]

Anyone been able to get this in Perth ??? Done the ring around the usual places and no one seems to have it..... :confused:

[NeishaVESS]

Went to go get some, no product and is a special order.....:vpo:

Bit out of your way but Autobarn in Airport West stock it. Thats where i got mine from.

[Cmycv8]

Bit out of your way but Autobarn in Airport West stock it. Thats where i got mine from.

Thanks mate, I got your message and will get some ASAP, after what the boz was doing today I need to get on to this asap.

[NeishaVESS]

Thanks mate, I got your message and will get some ASAP, after what the boz was doing today I need to get on to this asap.

No worries dude, I hope it all goes well, if you need any help or anything just give me a buzz or PM.

[bush_basha]

Those of you who flushed did you just use cheap ATF fluid and some flush? With the ATF fluid can it just be the cheapest as possible or should it have the properties for the T56, cheers.

[Evman]

All I used was the regular Castrol DexIII fluid. It cost less than $40 for 4L from Supershit. 4L is all you need for a flush as you wont be driving for long at all. I left it in for a day because I didn't drive much, but in total maybe did 10km. Dropped the oil out (and as it turned out, another kilo or two of metal flakes :lol: ) and refilled it up with the quality stuff. Had I known so much metal was going to come out again I probably would have done another flush, but to be honest I was getting sick of crawling under the car anyway.

[bush_basha]

thanks for the reply, i have some flushing addative from mainlube so ill be adding that into it and probably do two flushes just dont want to pay an arm and a leg for oil just to be thrown out, hence why i wanted to ask about the cheaper stuff, but i also dont want to harm the box by getting the wrong stuff, if that makes sense

[VX2VESS]

4 days still very good still with everything it does

[Tonner 73]

Hello all

im keen to give this oil ago as i wanna change both the gearbox and diff oil.
Just wondering wouldnt it be better to flush with the penrite gear oil to make sure all the dex 3 is out and you are not mixing the two fluids.Its a bit more expensive but i think better.
isnt it funny how two different auto pro stores sell at different prices one is $24 the other is $52 for 2.5lts

cheers

[LS1-5.7]

Hello all

im keen to give this oil ago as i wanna change both the gearbox and diff oil.
Just wondering wouldnt it be better to flush with the penrite gear oil to make sure all the dex 3 is out and you are not mixing the two fluids.Its a bit more expensive but i think better.
isnt it funny how two different auto pro stores sell at different prices one is $24 the other is $52 for 2.5lts

cheers

Just flush it with some new DEX III as you're more trying to get the metal particles out as the ATF will be all but gone anyway. The fully synthetic is priced at around $50 for 2.5 litres but the manual trans 70 is about $25 for 2.5 litres and is good enough IMO.

[Tonner 73]

oh so is there two types normal and synthetic for the gear box

[LS1-5.7]

Penrite do a "Manual gear oil 75" which is semi synthetic. They also do a "Syn gear oil 75" which is full synthetic. The two often get confused but it's the semi synthetic you want for the T56.

[Tonner 73]

yep confusing cause everyone is talking about the manual gear oil mgo 70
what the go with the diff is it syn 80- 140
cheers

[Ghostrider]

I am assuming this is the stuff....

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/gear-oils/manual_gear_oil_70

Below is from the page.

MANUAL GEAR OIL 70

A great synthetic performance gear oil featuring new generation technology. Suitable for many modern 6 speed manual gearboxes where originally a synthetic or mineral automatic transmission fluid was specified. Ideal for T-56 manual transmissions and VW/Land Rover gear boxes.
SAE 70W-75, API GL-4 Plus, BOT33

Looks like it is synthetic to me ! :)

[Tonner 73]

cheers ghosty

thanks for the imfo, why didnt i look that up
cant wait to get it in.
cheers

[NeishaVESS]

Only the Manual Gear Oil 70 is designed for the T-56, don't get swindled by a sales person not knowing because to them a manual gear oil is what your asking for and you have a manual, so to them anything will be fine, but your gearbox won't be so happy in the long run...

Penrite Manual Gear Oil 70
Mainline solid boundary gearbox fluid
Dex 111 ATF or Transmax Z

Nothing else should be put in, if you can't find it or they don't have it the. Go somewhere else..

Shaun

[Cmycv8]

Only the Manual Gear Oil 70 is designed for the T-56, don't get swindled by a sales person not knowing because to them a manual gear oil is what your asking for and you have a manual, so to them anything will be fine, but your gearbox won't be so happy in the long run...

Penrite Manual Gear Oil 70
Mainline solid boundary gearbox fluid
Dex 111 ATF or Transmax Z

Nothing else should be put in, if you can't find it or they don't have it the. Go somewhere else..

Shaun

Exactly, if it says MADE FOR 6 SPEEDS and also for the T56 then stick to what the manufacturer has advised. Some sales people think oil is oil and we all know this is not the case.

Just a heads up, REPCO do not stock this product. They have the other types of gear oil but you want gear oil 70. AUTOBARN stock this product at $55 for 2.5 liters but if you ask nicely (like I did) you can save 10-15%.

Not the cheapest stuff but better than putting the wrong fluid in spending $$$$ on a rebuild,

Just my 2c.

[Tonner 73]

Yer stoked
Just got some gear oil 70 and syn diff oil 80 all for $100
$25 for 2.5lt of the 70 from autobarn
stoked

[LS1-5.7]

Nice work Tonner :) Can't wait to hear the results and I'll know by the smile on yer face :)
Put 4.4L in the box with syringe through the reverse light switch orifice. No need to undo the fill plug.

[GenReaper]

I have been using this gear oil http://www.ulx110.com/9.html
Great when warm, fast shifts, awesome protection.
slightly notchy on the first 2 gear changes when cold, after that its good.

More HP tp the wheels as well.

[Cmycv8]

Yer stoked
Just got some gear oil 70 and syn diff oil 80 all for $100
$25 for 2.5lt of the 70 from autobarn
stoked

Ok, store location please as I need some asap.

[NeishaVESS]

Ok, store location please as I need some asap.

I told you I paid just under $60 for 5Litres, Im going to have words with Autobarn when i want some more as that is over a 90% price increase in just 4 months or so. Bloody Autobarn.

[Tonner 73]

Gday all
i got the last two but im sure they will get more
Auto pro homebush
good luck

[Cmycv8]

Gday all
i got the last two but im sure they will get more
Auto pro homebush
good luck

Must be the VIC stores that charge $55 per container.

[Blown 454 AWD]

It will be interesting how this product works out long term, as short term seems great.

Long term with the T56, Mainlube 154 Synthetic Solid Boundary E P gear Oil SAE 75w80 is the only product we have seen that will give the service life you would expect from the T56 with a new car.

These "quick fix" products jumping up on the market, whilst they're certainly better than ATF :goodjob: people are running the gauntlet with chemistry miss match and they won't protect anywhere as good or as long term as the Mainlube solid boundary gear oil.

We know this as we started testing with Mainlube 151 Synthetic E P Gear Oil SAE 75w90 first back in 2000, and whilst a big improvement, at 20,000 klms we had metal again. We then devoloped the Mainlube 154 Synthetic Solid Boundary E P gear Oil SAE 75w90 and thinned it a little to allow cold gear changes, 30,000 klms with NO metal at all. (Filtergrams on www.Mainlube.com.au in the performance area under Filtergrams)

Would love to get an active sample of this product at 20,000 klms in service, perform a (free) Filtergram which would show all we need to know, until then we're all guessing.

All the above is reflected by cost.

Cheers

Steve

[feistl]

Just to backup what steve is saying...

When i purchased my VX last year it had a new T56 dropped in (Had done less than 5000km). It was pretty noisy and shifts wernt that great.

Flushed it out and filled up with mainlube, its been a LOT better since. No strange noises, shifts nicely on the race track, works well while cold.

It is expensive stuff, but in the long run its cheaper and easier to do it properly from the start.

However the BIGGEST improvement ive seen is by flushing the clutch fluid with some Motul 600 racing brake fluid.

Have a read here...

http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html

The existing fluid was black and lumpy, and the clutch was always a pain. Having blead it out several times, its getting better and better. For the $30 of brake fluid (or cheaper if you use standard stuff), its by far the best "bang for buck" mod you can do to your manual commodore.

[VX2VESS]

yes seems the Penrite fully syn 70 is more expensive, than mineral naturally. http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/gear-oils/manual_gear_oil_70


I also did the diff on the weekend with Sin gear oil 80 http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/gear-oils/sin_gear_oil_80 this stuff is even more expensive than the gearbox stuff above.

What a pia on the VE with at least an xforce system, the exhaust is in the way so have to drop it (side drain on VE).

The cars done 40,000 and the oil was black, all good now...got enough to do it again left only used half that container. now its quieter as well


In addition, SIN Gear Oil 80 has been especially
formulated (and field trial-proven) to reduce chatter
and whine in BTR/Dana M78/M80 limited slip
differentials fitted to V8 Holdens and Fords as well
Chrysler Jeep. It is pre-dosed with the correct
amount and type of limited slip friction modifier. No
that no extra additive is required nor should it be
added as seal degredation may result.

[Evman]

I know what Steve is saying and there's no denying that Mainlube is far superior, however all you need to do is miss a gear and grind some teeth and you'll have metal in your oil again. As far as I'm concerned, sure Holden says the oil could last 20, 30, 50,000km (I actually have no idea what they recommend) but bugger that. I'd rather swap it out when it's still in decent condition rather than waiting for it to completely degrade. The engine oil is swapped out at 5000km rather than 10,000km (or 15,000km if you're in a VE), might as well treat the gearbox with the same care.

[Tonner 73]

Hello every one

ok did the full oil change so stoked everything is fresh diff syn 80, gearbox with the 70 and engine as well.
didnt notice any difference with the gear box but i only drove 2 km home and my gearbox is working well anyway.
ill post in after a few more kays.
cheers

[Blown 454 AWD]

I know what Steve is saying and there's no denying that Mainlube is far superior, however all you need to do is miss a gear and grind some teeth and you'll have metal in your oil again. As far as I'm concerned, sure Holden says the oil could last 20, 30, 50,000km (I actually have no idea what they recommend) but bugger that. I'd rather swap it out when it's still in decent condition rather than waiting for it to completely degrade. The engine oil is swapped out at 5000km rather than 10,000km (or 15,000km if you're in a VE), might as well treat the gearbox with the same care.


This is what the Mainlube T56 High Temperature Rare Earth Bung Magnet is for :goodjob:

This is why I push the magnets a little, makes the oil last much longer (removing any metal from enthusiastic gear changes) as you can't wear this oil out in the T56, just contaminate it.

Game over.

Cheers

Steve

[255-LS1]

Steve,

Can you give price indication for the Mainlube Syn Gear Oil. I already have your flushing additive (did wonders for the gen 3 by the way).

Cheers

Cam

[Blown 454 AWD]

Steve,

Can you give price indication for the Mainlube Syn Gear Oil. I already have your flushing additive (did wonders for the gen 3 by the way).

Cheers

Cam

Cam

Yes, flushing is a worth while job, an engine usually starts burning oil when the oil scavenging slots in the oil rings and pistons get blocked with carbonised sludge.

The Mainlube 154 Synthetic Solid Boundary E P ear oil SAE 75w80 is $56.80 +gst per litre, T56 takes 5 litres. Job method statement is on the tin.

The T56 High Temperature Rare Earth Magnetic Drain Bung is $77 +gst

Delivery to you is $10 +gst door to door courier.

Cheers

Steve

[Tonner 73]

Hello all

I noticed that when i opened the fill bolt first that the oil was coming out there.

so how do you get the extra oil back in to make it 5 litres in total with out coming out the fill bolt.

cheers

[BLACK 346]

Hello all

I noticed that when i opened the fill bolt first that the oil was coming out there.

so how do you get the extra oil back in to make it 5 litres in total with out coming out the fill bolt.

cheers

I am assuming this is where the reversing light switch comes into it, pretty sure you remove that and put the
extra in there.

[VX2VESS]

Hello all

I noticed that when i opened the fill bolt first that the oil was coming out there.

so how do you get the extra oil back in to make it 5 litres in total with out coming out the fill bolt.

cheers

take out the speedo on the other side.

Or i just jack up the left side of the car so on a big angle away from the hole

[Evman]

:yup: Reverse switch. You only want to put 4.4L in, not 5 ;)

[Tonner 73]

cheers dudes for the replys

the penrite is going good now that has been worked in

cheers

[awesome _vzss]

well after watching this thread for awhile,
today i decided to go buy some for my car.
hopefully will be doing the oil change some
time next week.
now i know you have the drain and the filler
plug but where about's is the reverse switch
located(i'd assume on th box somewhere) just
wondering does it stand out

cheers steven

[ReP0]

well after watching this thread for awhile,
today i decided to go buy some for my car.
hopefully will be doing the oil change some
time next week.
now i know you have the drain and the filler
plug but where about's is the reverse switch
located(i'd assume on th box somewhere) just
wondering does it stand out

cheers steven

if u are looking down the transmission towards the engine it's on your left hand side I believe three quarters down the transmission from the gear stick. You'll see an electrical connector coming out. I dont think it matters which hole you fill it up via just as long as it's higher than the fill valve which holden have put a big sticker on saying not to use because they overfill the box and hence why usually the reverse switch is recommended as the fill point. At the time when I changed it I actually used the switch on the other side of the tranny to fill mistaking it for the reverse switch. No biggie.

Dont expect to put a funnel up there and fill it from the bottle while under the car ;).

[silvervyss]

Anyone know how many litres i would need for the Diff, and also recommend me some oil for my clutch.

Cheers

John

[VX2VESS]

1ltr VE diff

[VX2VESS]

take out the speedo on the other side.

Or i just jack up the left side of the car so on a big angle away from the hole
yeah reverse lol i knew it was something on that side.

but so much easier to jack up the left side only...

i use a pump similar to this one,
http://www.macysgarage.com/myweb6/images/OilPump.JPG

[silvervyss]

1ltr VE diff

Cheers. Changing my gearbox oil, might as well do the diff.

[Tonner 73]

hello all
vt2vx where did you get that pump from and how much.
i havent been able to find anything good.
cheers

[VX2VESS]

i can't recall now had it for a while. just an auto shop somewhere

very handy even for sucking crap out of things

[deano23x]

i bought one of those pumps about a month ago from autoban for $20 if i recall correctly

[ReP0]

i bought one of those pumps about a month ago from autoban for $20 if i recall correctly

Might have to take a trip in and see if I can pick one up..would of been handy when I did it :).. My technique was to use a long tube connected to funnel. I sat under the car holding the tube in the hole. My brother outside poured it into the funnel and we let it slowly flow in.. Took ages.

[Evman]

I might just have to order a set of magnetic plugs to the car one day soon Steve :)

[silvervyss]

Purchased the pump. $30 from image auto (watergardens). Problem now is; diff oil only comes in 2.5 @ $58 (only need 1 Litre) and the gear box oil is $56 for 2.5l . I purchased Nulon tranni auto oil (dextron 4, multi synthetic); can someone confirm that this is ok for the ve ss power steering.

edit : if someone know's how to reset the ve service screen of the top of their head.

cheers

John

[Blown 454 AWD]

I might just have to order a set of magnetic plugs to the car one day soon Steve :)


Just purchasing another 20 bung to machine and fit Magnets, over 200 out there now and usage of these are gathering momentum.

Best I get these in and ready.

Cheers

Steve

[ReP0]

Just purchasing another 20 bung to machine and fit Magnets, over 200 out there now and usage of these are gathering momentum.

Best I get these in and ready.

Cheers

Steve

For $40 bucks or whatever you are selling them for you are laughing all the way to the bank. Frankly just a gimmick when all is said and done and an expensive one at that.

[Blown 454 AWD]

Frankly just a gimmick when all is said and done and an expensive one at that.


ReP0

Your comment is the thing I found amusing.

You obviously have some information my 35 years as an advanced trade accredited automotive engineer with 25 years in manufacturing special lubricants for overdriven machinery has not taught me.

Could you share the engineering reasons behind magnets being "just a gimmick" as they remove metal from the oil flow, no ifs of buts.

I'm amiss why you don't see this as an advantage?

Cheers

Steve

[ReP0]

I'm amiss why you don't see this as an advantage?

Cheers

Steve

There is an advantage just like there is an advantage in most gimmicky stuff however the advantage is so miniscual it's laughable. Now if you were selling these things for $5 a pop fair enough but at $40 it is a little joke. This thing is up there with all the fuel saving devices etc that have gone before.

I really wish people would use a little common sense when they purchase these products thinking they will do anything remotely useful past anything trivial. Even with a rare earth magnet you will still have to be within a cm of the plug for it to even remotely have any affect. How big is the transmission and what are the odds any filings hitting that 1cm spot to be caught vs floating around 4.5L worth of fluid in a transmission massively bigger than a bung hole :LOL.

Really you are just pissing money away buying one of these things but hey if it gives people a false sense of security perhaps that is advantage enough?

I say to people save your $40 and use it towards a transmission oil change in a year or two. You'll be better off. Hell buy a pump or something for the money which will make getting the oil into the transmission easier for regular changes and you'll have spent your money more wisely.

[VX2VESS]

why do manufactuers add these to engines and auto's in the bottom of pan then? not like they like to add worthless items to the cost.

[vr5speedv6]

I think the t5 had a magnet built into the case, not sure about the t56 though.

[ReP0]

why do manufactuers add these to engines and auto's in the bottom of pan then? not like they like to add worthless items to the cost.

Across the whole pan. For sure would be worth it. At one one minuscule location ala sump plug area creating a magnetic field of 1cm reach at best it'd be worthless. Hey if someone comes out with a product spanning the bottom of the pan I can see the benefit. Quite a large surface area being considered but a sump plug...come on..as gimmicky as it comes.

[Blown 454 AWD]

Across the whole pan. For sure would be worth it. At one one minuscule location ala sump plug area creating a magnetic field of 1cm reach at best it'd be worthless. Hey if someone comes out with a product spanning the bottom of the pan I can see the benefit. Quite a large surface area being considered but a sump plug...come on..as gimmicky as it comes.

RePO

You still have not answered my question???

Where are you getting you info from??

Let me guess, off the top of your head, you're not making sense, you're guessing!

For some reason, your posts insinuate that the oil stands still in the T56??

You're joking right, just take the filler bung out and start the car and give it a rev.....?

In a T56 all 6 gears sets are turning full time (when the motor is running with the clutch out even in neutral) from the clutch shaft, cluster gears and main shaft, gears are in mesh at all times, so the oil in the T56 could flow at around 40 litres a minute around the box, passing the magnet every cycle.

So 5 litre into 40 is 8 times a minute the oil in the box would be cycled past the magnet.

Each contacting gear set is basically an oil pump.

We take it for granted that people understand this :doh:

We all need to move on here, its not magic, it's engineering.

Cheers

Steve

[vr5speedv6]

Steve, do you know whether or not the t56 has a magnet built into the case like the t5?

[Evman]

The fluid isn't stationary, it's constantly being mixed around. Over a period of time all oil will pass within 1cm of the magnet, and over time the vast majority of metal will become attracted to it. Rare earth magnets aren't cheap.

[ReP0]

RePO

You still have not answered my question???

Where are you getting you info from??

Let me guess, off the top of your head, you're not making sense, you're guessing!

Got a link to the study of a t56 transmission and how the fluids and metal shavings are guaranteed to be captured by a 1cm plug :goodjob: Or are you just talking out of your arse?



The fluid isn't stationary, it's constantly being mixed around. Over a period of time all oil will pass within 1cm of the magnet, and over time the vast majority of metal will become attracted to it. Rare earth magnets aren't cheap.
Just goes to show you the level of intelligence you need to buy into gimmicks :LOL.
Given the crap you posted below it's obvious you have no clue so I find it ironic you are trying to pass off as a knowledgable person. Oh and rare earth magnets are fairly cheap these days assuming you don't buy them in Australia from ripoff merchants like jaycar. Feel free to use the internet and check out some prices overseas. Especially at the current exchange rate ;).





For some reason, your posts insinuate that the oil stands still in the T56??

You're joking right, just take the filler bung out and start the car and give it a rev.....?

Not at all. I'm insinuating nothing of the sort. I'm saying that the likelihood of the plug catching random filings to the point it would make any difference is a bit of a joke given the size of the box, the location of the sump plug.

Guess what. With the car off and the bung out the oil/fluid flows out as well :shock:.. ZOMG the liquid is flowing around the box even when the car is off and flowing past the sump hole :LOL..



In a T56 all 6 gears sets are turning full time (when the motor is running with the clutch out even in neutral) from the clutch shaft, cluster gears and main shaft, gears are in mesh at all times, so the oil in the T56 could flow at around 40 litres a minute around the box, passing the magnet every cycle.
[/qoute]

Jesus. You seriously believe the fluid movement is so uniform that it circulates around the box and over a 1cm sump plug at 40L a minute. :jester:



[QUOTE=Evman;1802241]
So 5 litre into 40 is 8 times a minute the oil in the box would be cycled past the magnet.


It doesn't come any more uneducated as that statement. I'm glad you posted this of your own volition because it will let people know to ignore you on this issue completely.

Fluid dynamics in a cavity with geers of differing sizes and speeds does NOT create some amazing singular pump that makes liquid flow in such a stupidily trivial manner you envisage it.




We all need to move on here, its not magic, it's engineering.

Yes it is. Something you obviously have no clue about.

I'm thinking at this point 450 kW Adventra is wishing you'd kept quiet..

[GenReaper]

Rare Earth Magnets - $1.79

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=7645

Hmm $40 bucks, lol whos making a quid there ?

Even to ship to Aus at $15 wow go the markup.

[vr5speedv6]

Steve, do you know whether or not the t56 has a magnet built into the case like the t5?


Looks like the T56 has two magnets built into the case. (http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/0603phr_tremec_t56_transmission/photo_06.html)

[VX2VESS]

interesting above if they all have those already, pity can only clean off at rebuild. Same article also mentions about the hard shifting faults etc

REMs are free out of hdd's..

i had a stack of the HDD magnets i left on the last cars oil filter i forgot to take off bugger.

[Tonner 73]

Hello all

Its getting a bit heated here.
Just letting every one know that i am happy with the gear oil and feels smooth in the box. Good find

Thanks for the imformation dudes.

[vr5speedv6]

Hello all

Its getting a bit heated here.
Just letting every one know that i am happy with the gear oil and feels smooth in the box. Good find

Thanks for the imformation dudes.

How are you finding the cold shifting mate?
I've got some here ready to go in the vx on the weekend and if it works out well I'll put it in the tr6060:)

[duke5700]

If you live in a cold climate, aka Canberra Mr Mainlube will customise the oil to suit.

[Evman]

Given the crap you posted below it's obvious you have no clue so I find it ironic you are trying to pass off as a knowledgable person. Oh and rare earth magnets are fairly cheap these days assuming you don't buy them in Australia from ripoff merchants like jaycar. Feel free to use the internet and check out some prices overseas. Especially at the current exchange rate ;).

You fkling idiot. I didn't post all of that stuff you said I did. Go back and have a look genius. Feel free to use the internet and check the quotes you're putting into your post :goodjob: "Prices overseas" like Honk Kong? That's hit and miss, at least paying decent money over hereyou know that you're getting a proper magnet, not just another falsely advertised fridge magnet.

[Tonner 73]

Hey there

Cold shifting is no problems just get it in and see

cheers

[VYSHSV8]

yeh Ev he seems to added your name to all of them :lol:

Your a bad bad man lol

Now Repo, I have to admit I have farked up doing a quote back in the Early days but you take the cake :Lmoa:

Quoting Evman several times lol

Now I would quite happily have a magnet and will get one from Steve soon as an help to reduce floating metals going through everything can only do that Help, you know something you obviously need alot of :)

[NeishaVESS]

This thread is getting way out of hand now.

[BLACK 346]

VT2VX, how many tubes of the Nulon additive did you put in?
I am adding 2 x 125mm tubes to the ULX110 that is currently in the box,
does this sound about right?

[vr5speedv6]

Hey there

Cold shifting is no problems just get it in and see

cheers

Thanks mate!
I'll get it in there and report back:)

[VX2VESS]

VT2VX, how many tubes of the Nulon additive did you put in?
I am adding 2 x 125mm tubes to the ULX110 that is currently in the box,
does this sound about right?

i did use two, but i dropped all that out and using penrite only currently.

decided to get rid of the ATF.

[Blown 454 AWD]

Magnets aren't the pimple on the arse of my turnover so I don't give a flying!

All this is to help and stop your T56 from fuking up, we can all imagine how many T56's would've fuked up by now if not for Mainlube's R & D and ability to come up with a product, thinking completely outside the box, taking the risk with R & D putting a E P Gear Oil in a transmission that was forbidden to use it.

So, if any one wants to make their own and sell / save some money, here's the heads up on the spec to do what I have done.

1) Become an LS1 sponsor (pay the $$$$)
2) You have to get these made specially as they are a special size and extreme high temp 100C+ or they stop working with the heat) minimum order is 100
3) Purchase a quality bung.
4) machine the bung to take the magnet
5) Purchase a special steel glue (attracts to the magnet) that's oil resistant.
6) Glue each magnet into the bung, holding in a gig until set.
7) carry out product testing to make sure magnet won't fall out.

So, not so plug and play people.

To purchase the cheap ones you will find they aren't high temp and more often fake and will loose their magnetism fast.

To make what I have made (T56 High Temp. Rare Earth Magnet) on a 1 off basis is impossible as minimum order is 100, ordered in Australia, made in USA.

USA won't be able to supply soon as China has all the 17 rare earth minerals that go into these magnets and are now refusing to supply USA with product to make.

Every electrical item has these magnets in somewhere so in time to come China is going to monopolise this market and fuk the world up for electrics.

RePO I don't have to justify anything on these forums, I have been helping people (free of charge) with even non-oil related things here for a very long time. And I never regret what I post.

I'm sure people have already made their minds up over this thread, I say this from the emails of support I'm receiving :goodjob:

Cheers

Steve

[BLACK 346]

i did use two, but i dropped all that out and using penrite only currently.

decided to get rid of the ATF.

Thanks mate :)

[VX2VESS]

Magnets aren't the pimple on the arse of my turnover so I don't give a flying!

All this is to help and stop your T56 from fuking up, we can all imagine how many T56's would've fuked up by now if not for Mainlube's R & D and ability to come up with a product, thinking completely outside the box, taking the risk with R & D putting a E P Gear Oil in a transmission that was forbidden to use it.

So, if any one wants to make their own and sell / save some money, here's the heads up on the spec to do what I have done.

1) Become an LS1 sponsor (pay the $$$$)
2) You have to get these made specially as they are a special size and extreme high temp 100C+ or they stop working with the heat) minimum order is 100
3) Purchase a quality bung.
4) machine the bung to take the magnet
5) Purchase a special steel glue (attracts to the magnet) that's oil resistant.
6) Glue each magnet into the bung, holding in a gig until set.
7) carry out product testing to make sure magnet won't fall out.

So, not so plug and play people.

To purchase the cheap ones you will find they aren't high temp and more often fake and will loose their magnetism fast.

To make what I have made (T56 High Temp. Rare Earth Magnet) on a 1 off basis is impossible as minimum order is 100, ordered in Australia, made in USA.

USA won't be able to supply soon as China has all the 17 rare earth minerals that go into these magnets and are now refusing to supply USA with product to make.

Every electrical item has these magnets in somewhere so in time to come China is going to monopolise this market and fuk the world up for electrics.

RePO I don't have to justify anything on these forums, I have been helping people (free of charge) with even non-oil related things here for a very long time. And I never regret what I post.

I'm sure people have already made their minds up over this thread, I say this from the emails of support I'm receiving :goodjob:

Cheers

Steve


um did you miss the previous post before stating that they already have 2 huge magnets in them?

http://image.popularhotrodding.com/f/9089679/0603phr_06_z+t56_transmission_guide+.jpg

[Evman]

Maybe mine are all caked up already :( Last lost of oil I drained out had plenty of shine to it.

[ReP0]

RePO I don't have to justify anything on these forums, I have been helping people (free of charge) with even non-oil related things here for a very long time. And I never regret what I post.


Of course you have to justify it. What you expect prospective buyers to be stupid enough to just buy them from you with no proof they work just because you say they do?..

I love how you play the forum sponsor card. You are participating but each post you do is pushing a product from mainlube you sell :LOL

I'm guess I've seen a lot of questionable gimmicks in my time when it comes to "performance" items. Unfortunately the enthusiasts has plenty of cash and plenty of enthusiasm and are willing to give anything a try. In this case there is no way to prove anything about the product and given it's stuck in the arse end of the box in a dead end where flow would be worst of course I have a right to question the price vs performance of said item.

You already have two big arse magnets in the middle of the box which is going to catch the majority of it all. Perfect position too. Righ under it all and in the middle. Now that is engineering. They didn't put the magnet in the arse end in a dead end section for a reason ;).





I'm sure people have already made their minds up over this thread, I say this from the emails of support I'm receiving :goodjob:

Cheers

Steve

Aren't you special :LOL..

If I made just a few people stop and think about it rather than just accept it blindly then I've done a service irrespective of the end decision they make. Sometimes we just rush into stuff thinking "it's just $40" but really it's the principle of the thing. As I've gotten older I've toned down the impulsive and completely trusting nature when people push products on forums. It's not like the early days of the 90's where it was just people being genuine and having no vested interests

I have absolutely no vested interest in it at all. I don't have a competing business or trying to turn a profit from anything I've written. ;)

I'd love to see some independent study into how these plugs improve longevity. I doubt it will be forth coming.

[NeishaVESS]

I won't quote it because it's a long post, but RePo in a conclusion to your posts I think all you want is some proof that these things actually do something in there.

Would someone who has one fitted please pull it out of the box and snap a few pics so we can see how much crap they can pickup?

[vessloveit]

I have not read all the posts in this thread but if people are doubting Steves credentials they have obviously never spoken or dealt with him.

I have been using Steves products ever since I purchased my SS in 2007 I would not class myself as big customer but whenever I have purchased products Steve has always looked after me with a few discounts and his time answering what are probably stupid questions to him.

Would highly recommend all Mainlube products and personal service from Steve.

[Blown 454 AWD]

um did you miss the previous post before stating that they already have 2 huge magnets in them?

vt2vx yes I did see that the T56 (surprisingly) has magnets, one would have to wounder the strength??

I say "surprisingly" as have a look here (http://mainlube.com/cms/index.php?page=Filtergrams_For_Performance_Vehicle s) at all the metal in these T56's (with resident magnets) I shouldn't be able to find boxes full of metal if these resident magnets in the T56 were efficient.

Gus Barbara in the Combined Touring Cars ran Mainlube totally last season, I asked him how the box was when they stripped it at the seasons end? He said the box was in great condition but the bung magnet looked like a porcupine.

This would the the toughest application (in the past 12 months) for the Mainlube 154 combined with the bung magnet.

Cheers

Steve

[justin_d]

vt2vx yes I did see that the T56 (surprisingly) has magnets, one would have to wounder the strength??

I say "surprisingly" as have a look here (http://mainlube.com/cms/index.php?page=Filtergrams_For_Performance_Vehicle s) at all the metal in these T56's (with resident magnets) I shouldn't be able to find boxes full of metal if these resident magnets in the T56 were efficient.

Gus Barbara in the Combined Touring Cars ran Mainlube totally last season, I asked him how the box was when they stripped it at the seasons end? He said the box was in great condition but the bung magnet looked like a porcupine.

This would the the toughest application (in the past 12 months) for the Mainlube 154 combined with the bung magnet.

Cheers

Steve

And that's a :slap: followed by a :nutkick: for RePo there. You can generally pick snake oil sellers but if you want your gear to last you need to spend $$$. Still waiting to find work atm, but when I do I'll be getting some mainlube products to flush the T56 as it still has the original fluid and it's done 170,000! :confused:

[Ghostrider]

Seriously this is a thread for Penrite manual gear oil 70 for T56, can we please keep it on topic ? :feedtroll:

Any comments from people with it in their cars on how well it's going much appreciated.

[BLACK 346]

I put 2 tubes of Nulon G70 in this morning (added to the ULX-110 that
was already in the box) and have noticed a massive improvement in
shift quality. The ULX made a significant improvement over the Transmax-z
that I was previously runnning, but this Nulon has really smoothed things
out. May try the Penrite and Nulon at next oil change, maybe it will end
up as good as the wifes Suby box lol

[Evman]

...maybe it will end
up as good as the wifes Suby box lol

I wish. There's only so much the oil will do :(

[vr5speedv6]

I've had the penrite oil in for a few days now and there's a very noticable improvement to shift quality, hot and cold:goodjob:
It's impressed so much, it'll now be tested in the new tr6060:)
BTW,Cheapa Auto Spares is the cheapest I could find up here at 44.95 for 2.5L.

[mrcaprice]

hi peoples have searched but no luck...i want to use this oil penrite manual g70 oil...im unsure of it being ok for the older t56 used in the hsv vs gts...this box was last used on the HSV GTS VT SERIES I HOLDEN STROKER 220i....THE BOX IS MADE BY BORG WARNER.....WILL THIS OIL SUIT THIS BOX CHEERS

[VYSHSV8]

Yes the penrite oil is suited to all T56's:)

[CunningStunter]

For $40 bucks or whatever you are selling them for you are laughing all the way to the bank. Frankly just a gimmick when all is said and done and an expensive one at that.

Ok so it seems I'm a bit slow on the uptake. I have read this and a few other threads with alot of interest as I'm keen to change oils and Mainlube is looking the goods for a few reasons.

I won't enter debate on Mainlubes pricing, thats his business and his alone however the magnet itself is definately NOT a gimmick. I post the following not to argue with anyone I couldn't care less about your car but for anyone reading this thread and is wondering about the magnets then I think this is worth typing/reading.

Funnily enough, most of the motorbikes I've owned have a magnet on the end of the sump plug. The ones that didn't I installed one. I do not know if there are other resident magnets as per above on the Holden engines.

Never seen alot of metal coming from my race or stunt bikes (this is across 4 GSXR750s, 1 750 was a race bike, 1 a stunter, 2 were just road/track bikes + 1 GSXR1000 that is heavily modified to race ASBK and 1 Superstock GSXR600 and these things rev to 14,000+RPM ALL day whilst stunting and racing. Heck whilst stunting we've even ended up installed dual oil feeds because during balance point wheelies at 200kph the sump tends to run the engine dry due to the angle and we've done a few big ends..a 2nd feeder (good one from Yoshimura) solved that particular problem. I'd put the lack of metal flakes in my bikes down to the Motul 7100 I've been using which is stupid expensive but seemingly a great oil (as is the Motul RBF600 racing brake fluid I notice someone was asking about this for clutch use)....

Now big deal you all say - but where it gets interesting is when I bought my brand new 2004 Husky TE250 in well .....2004. When I did a few oil changes (again brand new bike, well looked after) there were ALOT of metallic flakes stuck to the sump plug and I was seriously stressing about it there was THAT much, dealer says totally normal! Fair enough if anything happens I call warranty on their arses but at least the magnet catches most if not all of the metal flakes. Ripping apart the oil filters on the GSXRs revealed no flakes whatsoever which REALLY suprised me esp with the abuse they get given. Granted, the little TE250 dirt bike sump is less than 2litres (and is used for both engine and gearbox) and doesn't have a filter so hard to check that - arguably the magnet is even more important in dirt bikes sharing SO LITTLE OIL BETWEEN the gearbox/engine - less those evil little flakes end up in the bore.....oh THAAAT'S right THEY DID! But on a close friends 2005 Kawasaki KX250F WHICH HAD NO MAGNET (tight arsed bloody boat making company hahaha)........

So if anyone is reading this wondering about magnets for your sump/sump plug in general - they definately get my vote. At a complete guess the standard Holden jobs would be BUDGET items for a mass produced car. Further to this, much the same way people will justify the cost of the Mainlube oil in that it outlasts AND out performs other options and in the longer term is far cheaper a $40 magnet, even if it was cheap to produce is still heaps cheaper than gearbox/engine rebuilds.....

Note: This is merely based off my own experience with 30yrs of riding and countless bikes from 1980 to today. Whilst it relates to bikes not cars figured I'd add my 2 cents as a few others have.......oh and no, I don't work for anyone with an interest, have NEVER used Mainlube products (but will be now I've read all these threads!), I am *unfortunately* not sponsored by any oil companies whatsoever so it's a genuine post designed to give another side to the story.

Cheers guys!

[ReP0]

Note: This is merely based off my own experience with 30yrs of riding and countless bikes from 1980 to today. Whilst it relates to bikes not cars figured I'd add my 2 cents as a few others have.......oh and no, I don't work for anyone with an interest, have NEVER used Mainlube products

I too ride motorbikes however the gearbox on a motorbike is MUCH MUCH more compact than the T56 transmission. This ensures that oil at the very least has a HUGE chance of passing by the plug in comparison.

Climb under your car, right down in the guts, basically in the middle of it and notice the plug is right up where the gear stick is a bit from the bottom. Now look down the HUGE T56 transmission and see how far away it is from said magnet. It's also at the lowest point on the box so the filings when they settle drop over it with higher probablility. This is not the case on the t56

I have no issues with magnets catching filings. Of course they do. The question is given the MASSIVE T56 transmission, the position of the plug will it really make the difference?. Doubt it. Hence my view is I consider it a gimmick. For my motorbike gearbox I'd put one in without a doubt and have done so but they are completely different beasts and completely different setups.


Getting back on topic I've been running the penrite for a while now and no issues at all. I'd rather change the transmission oil every couple of years if I'm that worried BUT looking at the oil that came out of my 9 year old transmission I have no problems never looking at the oil ever again for the rest of the life of the car. It looked great. Ran a magnet over it while in the pan and not a single one. Franky unless you crunch your gearbox regularly changing the fluid or buying a magnet is a waste of time. If you are crunching it regularly perhaps you should learn to drive properly (this is a general statement and not directed at you CunningStunter).

[73LJWhiteSL]

I have to say trying to get my hands on this stuff is not fun. Repco will get it in for me, for $57 per 2.5L plus $15 freight...

Has anyone in Melbourne recently brough this?

thanks

Steve

[***VX*R8***]

I had Repco order it in for me recently aswell. I don't remember them charging me for freight though, but maybe they did and I just didn't realise lol.

I have been using the Gear 70 oil and a small tube of Nulon G70 and have had no problems with the box. Shifts smoothly and not very noisy.

[storm vy]

I have to say trying to get my hands on this stuff is not fun. Repco will get it in for me, for $57 per 2.5L plus $15 freight...

Has anyone in Melbourne recently brough this?

thanks

Steve

It can be hard stuff to get your hands on lol, i ended up ordering mine through autobarn cos they were the cheapest i found. I think i paid about $54 per 2.5L, they did say i might have to buy a full box (4 bottles i think) but ended up only buying 2 and didn't pay the postage.

[Gmfan]

So just ordered 5lt of Penrite manual gear 70 off the internet through MotoFluid. $48 for 2.5lt. Total for 5lt and freight was $104. Autobarn and Repco were saying $59 for 2.5lt.

[RARASV8]

+1 motofluid.com

http://www.motofluid.com/shop/gear-oils

ordered wed nite delivered b4 10am on fri

Garry

[Micks]

Been running the Penrite now in the Tonner since July & approx 8K is def. miles ahead of the original ATF, good shifts & box is noticeably quieter.
Great value for money & not too exxy to dump if I want to. Far better solution to others around I reckon!!! :thumbsup:

Cheers
VYT

[Gmfan]

So just ordered 5lt of Penrite manual gear 70 off the internet through MotoFluid. $48 for 2.5lt. Total for 5lt and freight was $104. Autobarn and Repco were saying $59 for 2.5lt.

Just thought i'd update. Ordered fluid Friday and received Tuesday. If anyone is looking to get some Penrite then definitely consider MotoFluid because price was cheaper than any store locally to me AND it was delivered to my door. Might try to get flush and fill done tomorrow morning before work. :yahoo:

[Micks]

Know it's an old thread & all, after selling my Tonner & now driving a 6L Crewie M6. Following a great motoring/changes with the Penrite 70 gear oil.
I decided it was time to do the Crewy. The old atf I drained from it today was horrid! No metal particles in it though.
Put the latest Penrite gear oil in 70-75 fully synthetic. Took it for a run & noticed it has quieted down a little & very smooth shifting. But do remember it took a few days last time I used to to see any real result.

[VZ_V8]

I forgot about this thread. Well I had my 22,000km old sample of MGO70 tested by Mainlube to see how it was holding up.

My ute gets used on track days and cops a fair hiding so I was expecting the results to be not too great however, the results showed it was in fantastic condition.

The oil was in the very early stages of forming Dark Metallo-Oxide and Black Oxide Particles which are formed when the machine is over-driven beyond the capabilities of the lubricant. From what I understood when speaking to Aaron on the phone was these particles are up to 100 micron in size whereas the load zones in the gearbox have a 3 micron tolerance and as such wear occurs to the metal surfaces when these particles are forced through the load zones.

Essentially the outcome of the report was the oil has been holding up fairly well but it's recommended to change the MGO70 at 20,000-30,000km intervals to minimise the amount of Dark Metallo-Oxide and Black Oxide Particles floating around in the box.

[Micks]

That makes sense as the last two M6's Ive owned changed them around 75K & I'm sure both were on their original atf
& were very black & not so pinkish as atf should be!

[The_Senator]

It would appear MGO70 has been replaced by a new product from Penrite.. It's now Pro Gear 70W-75.. Still recommended for the T-56.. About to put some in the transmission to replace the MGO70 that's currently done more than it's job..

[Micks]

It would appear MGO70 has been replaced by a new product from Penrite.. It's now Pro Gear 70W-75.. Still recommended for the T-56.. About to put some in the transmission to replace the MGO70 that's currently done more than it's job..
That's right the latest gear is fully synth.

[BLACKVE]

So just ordered 5lt of Penrite manual gear 70 off the internet through MotoFluid. $48 for 2.5lt. Total for 5lt and freight was $104. Autobarn and Repco were saying $59 for 2.5lt.

Just did my VE today, not sure why but got the 2.5L for $41.95. Store owner has a T56 and stocks it so may be sells a bit and therefore good $$$. Every where else doesn't stock it. Sprint Auto a mob in SA

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh170/impluseve/DSC_8175.jpg

[feistl]

Hey guys,

Big bump, but better than starting a new thread. (Question at bottom, rest just background info).

So basically i converted my VY Berlina Wagon to manual using a T56 donor from a low km VU ute. As the VT/VX/VU shifter pattern is slightly different to the VY/VZ (15 degree rotation) when i fitted up a brand new VY HSV GTS short gearstick ($430 worth) it was out of alignment. I really didn't want to pull the knob off and reglue it (which is what most people do) so decided to fit a ripshifter instead.

I used some Transmax Z (The original formula) that i was given when i purchased my T56 Magnum (I obviously used mainlube oil). The gearbox was pretty good for a few kms, but it appears the ripshifter was harsh on the syncros cause the 3rd/4th syncro key broke and jammed the gearbox. So pulled it out and rebuilt it with new syncros, billet keys and outer shifters and did an overhaul of the box. When i spoke with Mal Wood (Who supplied the parts) he said that the new transmax Z stuff is shit, and i should use Dex3.

So i fitted the gearbox back in and filled it with Dex3. For the first few kms it was ok, but after about 1000km its becoming REALLY notchy when changing gears, almost to the point where the harsness through the gearstick hurts my hand. (Well obviously its not massive pain, but i certainly feel it).

So i am going to change the oil again, i am just trying to decide what to use. I really want to use Mainlube, but considering this is a daily driver i have already spent faaaar too much on it (Just did a brand new diff with a Trutrac and 3.91 gears) i would like to spend a bit less. The car is a daily driver (although does get driven hard as its Injected LPG so bloody cheap to run), but wont see any track time.

Question - Is Nulon Pro Gear 70 from Motofluid still the way to go? Its currently $48.30 per 2.5L bottle. Luckily they are within 10 minutes of my place so i can swing past after work.
If i do use Nulon Pro Gear 70, is it worth adding some Nulon G70 as well, or is it not required?

Cheers, Errol

[Smitty]

if you are going to MotoFluid.. get their Penrite gearbox oil for the T56.. think it is the Pro Gear 70 (but def ensure it is for T56)
it is better than the Nulon .. I used the Penrite in the box in my old VE SSV and it is far better than even the Dex (and no additives needed)

[LS1 Tonner]

I use the penrite pro-gear 70-75 in mine as well.
Definitely shifts a lot better with this than the Dex 3 that was in it. Also have a ripshifter fitted
It actually specifies it is suitable for use in the T56 on the back of the bottle

[Micks]

Yes I use the Penrite 70/75 in mine...which reminds me is due again very soon!

[jc_sv8]

me too...

In this thread http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?133063-6-speed-T56-oil

[feistl]

Update:

Change the oil over on the weekend and the difference is simply amazing. The old Dex3 oil (When i say old, i mean around 500km) was like water (unbelievably runny) and was a dark burnt colour. I am hoping/praying that the gearbox hasnt suffered much damaged.

Since putting in the penrite its much much quieter, the shifts are 400% better and the feel is what i would expect a gearbox to be like.

I am actually pretty annoyed at Mal Wood (Its not the first time his advice is wrong), i might even give him a call.

Anyway, for anyone with a T56 i highly recommend changing your oil over to Penrite (if you cant afford mainlube).

Cheers

[mechatron]

Sorry I know this is a thread dig but is everyone on here still using the Penrite gear oil for their T56 or have they gone back to Dex3?
Also how often is the gear oil in the T56 meant to changed (km wise / time wise)? Thank you

[Smitty]

.................. is everyone on here still using the Penrite gear oil for their T56 or have they gone back to Dex3?
Also how often is the gear oil in the T56 meant to changed (km wise / time wise)? Thank you


yes, stayed with Penrite
and .. never (but I change mine every 20,000)

[Micks]

I will never go back to atf in either of my M6's the Penrite gear oil is perfect.

[jc_sv8]

Mine has been in there 3 years, and about 30K kms. You have to change it? :hide:

[jc_sv8]

Oops, just checked and it's been in for 7 years and 45K kms...

[Micks]

Mine has been in there 3 years, and about 30K kms. You have to change it? :hide:

I do it every coupla years in mine.

[Smitty]

Mine has been in there 3 years, and about 30K kms. You have to change it? :hide:


.. change all my car's vital fluids every 20,000 (cept engine, every 5k and coolant every 2 years)

[mechatron]

Awesome thanks heaps guys. I just put the Penrite 70W-75 in mine. Although I just got a little worried when most of the keyboard warriors on Facebook said they drained the Penrite out and put Dex3 back in due to problems changing gears. But thank heavens this Forum is still alive, as you are the guys I really trust :)

[macca_779]

Awesome thanks heaps guys. I just put the Penrite 70W-75 in mine. Although I just got a little worried when most of the keyboard warriors on Facebook said they drained the Penrite out and put Dex3 back in due to problems changing gears. But thank heavens this Forum is still alive, as you are the guys I really trust :)

How long did they say they had it in their box? The Penrite doesn't last as long as Dex 3 in my experience. I tend to change it every 20k, and after the box returns back to being smooth again

[Micks]

Awesome thanks heaps guys. I just put the Penrite 70W-75 in mine. Although I just got a little worried when most of the keyboard warriors on Facebook said they drained the Penrite out and put Dex3 back in due to problems changing gears. But thank heavens this Forum is still alive, as you are the guys I really trust :)

Never had that problem with Penrite, in reality it's reverse to what theyre saying imho atf causes problematic changes.

[mechatron]

How long did they say they had it in their box? The Penrite doesn't last as long as Dex 3 in my experience. I tend to change it every 20k, and after the box returns back to being smooth again

One guy in particular said 10K before he had to dump the gear oil, and then a heap of other guys jumped on the bandwagon bagging out the gear oil

[mechatron]

Never had that problem with Penrite, in reality it's reverse to what theyre saying imho atf causes problematic changes.

Thanks Mick, that’s great info

[macca_779]

One guy in particular said 10K before he had to dump the gear oil, and then a heap of other guys jumped on the bandwagon bagging out the gear oil

The first time you switch that’s a fair assessment. I believe the residual dex 3 degrades the gear oil as I’ve had the same experience when I switched years ago.

[mechatron]

The first time you switch that’s a fair assessment. I believe the residual dex 3 degrades the gear oil as I’ve had the same experience when I switched years ago.

Oh wow, that does make sense. Thanks Macca

[macca_779]

Oh wow, that does make sense. Thanks Macca

No probs. Just a factor to keep in mind. Overall it is outstanding stuff and far better than Dex 3 in the long run

[mechatron]

No probs. Just a factor to keep in mind. Overall it is outstanding stuff and far better than Dex 3 in the long run

Exactly what I wanted to hear. Thanks buddy.