Electrical Problem

[maloo brent]

Hi guys, My ute has been sitting for the last few weeks and I went to start it and the ignition lights go out and is as if the battery is dead, the battery has 13.2 volts so its ok, When I first turned it on it had all the lights on the dash going and the fuel pumps got up to pressure and turn it to fire the engine and it gose dead and makes a fluttery noise and the ignition lights go real dim when you try to start it. left it for a half a day and tryed again and same thing but had a few chimes going this time. what could it be ???. ok it is a VU Maloo with alot of mods but the electrical system is pretty much standard apart from fuel pump wireing etc.

[swingtan]

What are you using to measure the voltage with? 13.2 volts is the "perfect" voltage for a 6 cell lead acid battery. It's highly unlikely that this voltage is correct unless the battery has been on float charge.

The symptoms you describe and the fact the car has been idle for a few weeks would indicate a dead battery. The only other thing I'd be guessing at is dirty terminals.

Simon.

[WOMBIE]

You could try and clean the terminals and see how that goes but the symptoms are just like what I had last year in my sv8 and my battery needed replacing.......the voltage has got me stumped though.

[wyldnyt]

Load test the battery, just stickn a meter on it wont tell you nothing

[maloo brent]

didn't have a lot of time putting up the tread so here is a bit more, the battery always has a trical charger on it and it can sit for a long time and it is ok, but went to use the ute in a hurry today and it was like it was flat, so chucked the charger on it for about 5 hours and that is when I tried it again and put a volt meter on it. the battery is only about 2 years old and has never given a problem as it has always been trickle charged. the termanals are clean and tight.

[swingtan]

Well, at least I got the float charge bit right......

Is there any chance that the charge was left on "fast charge" and not float? Does the battery have "electrolyte plug" ( the screw top type ) so you can check the level of the electrolyte? If it's left on charge for long periods, chances are that the electrolyte is low and while the OC voltage is OK, it simply can't deliver sufficient current with the low electrolyte.

IOf you can look into the cells via the plugs, then the electrolyte should only be about 1cm below the opening. You should not be able to see the lead plates above the electrolyte level. If it needs topping up, do so with distilled water, don't use tap water unless it's an emergency. I must stress the tap water is only to be used if you MUST get the car going. The chlorine in tap water will cause the battery to die completely in a short time. If you do have to use tap water, boil it for 5 min and allow it to cool before using it, this will at least remove most of the chlorine, but none of the other contaminants.

Simon.

[maloo brent]

Well, at least I got the float charge bit right......

Is there any chance that the charge was left on "fast charge" and not float? Does the battery have "electrolyte plug" ( the screw top type ) so you can check the level of the electrolyte? If it's left on charge for long periods, chances are that the electrolyte is low and while the OC voltage is OK, it simply can't deliver sufficient current with the low electrolyte.

IOf you can look into the cells via the plugs, then the electrolyte should only be about 1cm below the opening. You should not be able to see the lead plates above the electrolyte level. If it needs topping up, do so with distilled water, don't use tap water unless it's an emergency. I must stress the tap water is only to be used if you MUST get the car going. The chlorine in tap water will cause the battery to die completely in a short time. If you do have to use tap water, boil it for 5 min and allow it to cool before using it, this will at least remove most of the chlorine, but none of the other contaminants.

Simon.

Simon it has all been a bit of a rush today and I loosend the the caps on the cells to charge the battery but must admit I did not check the level, something I would normally do. gee if a man just had more time when in a rush !!!! I will check them in the morning and try the battery under load in another car to see if it is the battery. I just wanted to get some opinions on here before I look again tommorrow as it will be early that I do that and no bugger is on here to help if i ask questions. so I do appreciate the the help and will check a few more things out in the morning. the old story a little bit of knowledge is dangerous and youy forget to check the simple things, thanks for the help to every one that has replied and I will see what i find out tommorrow.

[Black VU SS ute]

2yrs for a normal battey is about the life span of them before they start to get weak.

[Toddler78]

Im going to say you have a dead cell
I have gone through 3 batteries in 3 years all having one dead cell. They will show a good charge but wont have the guts to crank the engine over

[wyldnyt]

Im going to say you have a dead cell
I have gone through 3 batteries in 3 years all having one dead cell. They will show a good charge but wont have the guts to crank the engine over

This is right and if you load tested it would take all of about 10secs and your prob will show up right away without all the other mucking about

[cashie]

Try jump starting it, my money is on the battery...

[maloo brent]

yep sure enough it is the battery, fluid low as suggested. so I toped it up and recharged it and it is working again. but don't know for how long or if it will hold a charge. up for a new battery !!!. it is amasing how it can drop of that quick as when I started it a few weeks ago it cranked it over fine.

Cheers guys for your input and help.