track day coming up soon

[sv300 - 75]

i just thought i would post my problem up to see if someone can help me decide what to do. im looking at doing a trackday at Sandown raceway in early june and would like to do some mods to my car.

the car is a 2001 VXII SV300. atm its just got a cat back exhaust which i dont like that much but the rest is bone stock.

i have or will have just enough to either upgrade the suspension or do some power mods.

option 1: new TEIN super street adjustable coil overs.

option 2: DUS OTRCAI, full pacemaker exhaust system and a tune to suit.

ive budgeted my money and i can afford one of the options for now but i can borrow the extra money from my bro to get it all done before i do the track day.

if you could just give your 2c on what you think will be best to give me the most out of the track day. eg fun not lap times.

ps. i have some second hand semi slicks as well that im going to use.

[whitels1ss]

Buddy I would go "option 2" and make the power mods! :burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout:

[peterss273]

I would go for option 1, The suspension set up will all ways give you more fun on the track!
I had a mate with a stock 180kw HSV, with a track set up on the suspension, and he was faster than 300 kw cars with average set ups!
Just my thoughts!
:)

[feistl]

Neither,

Get a decent set of brake pads and fluid, and a power steering cooler. Also change the engine oil and use some high quality stuff.

Power is irrelevant, and suspension isnt that important. Make the car reliable first, then worry about making it fast.

EDIT, If you are going to do suspension, dont worry about coil overs, start with some decent sway bars and a strut brace. Btw ill see you down there... Im in the Black VX, come say Hi :).

[Veeate]

I progressively took my car from 230rwkw (stock) to just over 300rwkw in about 3 jumps and each time did a track day inbetween.

The extra power is nice no doubt on the track. But to be honest even with all that extra power the thing holding me back was always the chronic understeer.....and my driving ability LOL !

So IMHO i would do the suspension first. If you really are focused on lap times on the track then good suspension will make it a much more fun day on the track. A standard 300kw GTS has more than enough power for a track day for most beginners.

My last track day with new Pedders coilovers and a harrop tru trac diff was just so much fun. You can actually use the 300rwkw and make better use of the 6 piston AP brakes.

cheers
Dave

[HSV Listy]

It is long winded but worth a read as I have been through all this with a similar car.

Job number 1 is power steering cooler. PWR are good as is ASE
Job 2 is high temp brake fluid and make sure the stock pads have decent amount of meat on the. Front and rear. If you change the pads to higher spec one dont work the brakes too hard as they will crack (if you have the stock drilled rotors). Keep to the stock pads and do reasonable stops without going silly for 2 hard laps. Max is 2 hard laps but after this back off the brakes and do some more reasonable braking and laps.
Overfill the engine oil by about 1/2 a litre. Check it half way through the day and bring spares. Put new oil in it would be good too.
Check the clutch fluid is good and not black. Change if required
Watch the guages out on the track and get used to watching like engine temps, oil warning light
Check your mirrors all the time and never over do it that may cause damage to the car.

As for mods forget the engine and suspension at this stage. My sway bars are still stock.
My advise get some semi slicks (get the Yokohalma 050) and 18 inch wheels. Plenty second hand or better still 18x8 BMW 3 series copies in about +35 to +40 offset. About $190 each wheel and tyres about $1800. Then get some camber dialed in to about -3 on the front. I gained nearly 5 seconds a lap from street to semi slicks and that is without any camber.

If you insist on mods ( I think you clutch was fixed from memory) but that would be first, then rip shifter
Also the stock diff hydratrack can let things down on the circuit and I found nearly 1.5 seconds just from a decent diff. I fitted a trutrack.

After consider the suspension but Teins are a all round suspension and to get them really working on the track allowing camber does take a bit of extra work with different springs and offset top strut mounts. If you fit adjustable other brands suspenion DO make sure the bottom lock nuts clear the top of the tyres. Some aftermarket suspension can completly bugger any chance of camber.

Those cars make pretty good power and have not a bad intake and tune either from stock. I spent $3500 on ORI, exhaust, tune and it gained about 20rwkw. Made almost no difference on the track other than causing the already overheating issue to get heaps worse. Same with the stock Teins and I gained nothing. Once I sorted camber, spring rates etc the times came down.

Down therei I would say the overheating would not be such a issue. Good to check those guages anyway

[sv300 - 75]

ok well a little more info from my side of things.
i have brand new bendix ultimates (stock harrops) on the front and will be getting new rears in a few weeks.
brand new clutch about 2 weeks ago so that should be good.
ive already got some Toyo R888's on monaro rims that have about 60% tread. and whats with the BMW rims listy?? nah im good with these ones.
i was thinking of getting some braided lines to hook up to the 4spot factory harrop calipers and some high temp fluid to go with it.
might look into the power steering cooler.
getting a general service done just before(eg. oil change and check over) so i will get some good oils put in and try and get some spare.
as the car is basically a GTS with some extra inside mods i think the say bars are already massive, might be bigger then the pedders ones.
oh and should i get a tower strut brace???

a bit more info on the track day event. its on the 5th of June at Sandown.
the day is split into 8 1hour sessions where you will spend about 20 to 30 mins on the track at a time and then off the track for the rest of the hour session..... well thats how i think its will run.
sandown has 2 very large breaking points and 1 medium point so i will just have to take it a little easy on these spots and i should be fine.

like you said listy i might just make the car reliable first and then see what i can do with the mods.

feistl i will see you there mate. hope the weather is good to us.

[Martin_D]

If you are interested in going quick, then put all your money into new tyres.
Second hand semis (regardless of tread) will not be much chop, as its heat cycles not wear that kills them and they fall off the slippery slide of grip very fast at that point along with your laptimes.

A new set of Dunlop Direzzas (which seem to work well on a car the weight of yours) and some brake pads will give you far and away faster lap times than any of the other modifications you mentioned. If you bother going for suspension mods, then get some spring rates that will actually work at the track - upwards of 600lb/inch on the front and probably 560lb/inch on the rear. Replacing your suspension with bling gear at low rates will do little for your performance as it wont stop the car leaning hard on its outside front. Thats taken from experience :)

Remember the last time Garth Tander or Lewis Hamilton set their best times on a used tyre set? (Neither do I) :cool:

[sv300 - 75]

If you are interested in going quick, then put all your money into new tyres.
Second hand semis (regardless of tread) will not be much chop, as its heat cycles not wear that kills them and they fall off the slippery slide of grip very fast at that point along with your laptimes.

A new set of Dunlop Direzzas (which seem to work well on a car the weight of yours) and some brake pads will give you far and away faster lap times than any of the other modifications you mentioned. If you bother going for suspension mods, then get some spring rates that will actually work at the track - upwards of 600lb/inch on the front and probably 560lb/inch on the rear. Replacing your suspension with bling gear at low rates will do little for your performance as it wont stop the car leaning hard on its outside front. Thats taken from experience :)

Remember the last time Garth Tander or Lewis Hamilton set their best times on a used tyre set? (Neither do I) :cool:

see my problem with getting new tyres is they are very exspensive and will only last me for 1 or 2 events, something like that. i dont think i can justify spending that sort of cash on something that will waste away. the other mods for me will also improve the car long term as it is a daily driver.

[feistl]

Couple of things to note/remember...


The dont accept card on the day, you must have cash.
Make it VERY VERY clear you need to rent a Helmet. last time i asked if helmet hire was available and do i need to book, the chick said no. On the day we have 18 people needing helmets, they only bought 4. We missed the first session :@
Bring extra fuel. I used around 140L (although was doing double sessions).
I used an ENTIRE set of BRAND NEW EBC Red Stuff brake pads... The track chews through them.
Try and use a thick high quality oil (EG, 10w60) and overfill by .5L
Use a high quality brake fluid (flush it first using standard fluid), i used Motul 600 (I think, it was $35 per 500ml from a bike shop in ringwood, i can find the details if required. You will need around 1L, so best to buy 3).
Tyre and air pressure is critical, the difference between 47 and 44psi was amazing. So much more grip etc... I had my tyres filled with nitrogen which is great. Means the tyre pressure was pretty much the same at all times.
Get your current suspension setup for the track. Ill PM you some details/advise
I know it sounds stupid, but try and get a good night sleep and eat a decent meal. It requires a lot of concentration which is hard to do when your asleep.
Atitude - Honestly, the biggest challenge is coming to terms with the fact your not a good driver, and your not the fastest. Once you honestly get to that stage, you can start learning to drive quickly. NO ONE is fast the first time they go on a track, its very different to go carts and/or street driving. Also, your car is nice but it wont be the fastest, dont get in a race with someone, you'll end up crashing.
Ensure your hazzard lights work, and all lights are working (Brake lights especially)
Remove everything thats not bolted down from the car. Spare wheel, jack, stuff in the boot/back seats.
Try to bring a spare fan belt, all fluids and as many tools as possible. Ill be bringing a Van with a HEAP of tools, spares etc, so if you get stuck i dont mind helping you out.
Remember, you need a long sleve shirt and pants to be allowed on the track. Try and get something as light as possible, as its hot in the car.
Remove the rear rubber strip near the windscreen (where the bonnet comes down), this allows better airflow through the engine bay
Again, a power steering cooler cant be recommended enough. I bought a motorbike engine oil cooler from the wreckers for about $150. It was in EXCELLENT condition and works perfectly. Just buy some 10mm auto transmission hose (do NOT use fuel hose) and run from the exsisting points. Try and use mainlube ATF for the power steering
A day of two before, try and spend a few hours under/around the car checking everything is tight and in good condition. Ideally (which is what i did), try and replace all the hoses/heater tap/reservours in the engine bay. Under the stress of a track these things are likely to fail (as they are now 10 years old).


I shoot you a PM, im happy to have a chat/look over your car if you like. Its the tiny small things which can ruin your entire day, so you want to be prepared.

Cheers, Errol.

[Martin_D]

You have a point about the tyres wearing, and slowing, and its a valid point.
Fresh rubber is the key to lap times though - its an expensive sport! :)

[sv300 - 75]

Couple of things to note/remember...

[LIST]
The dont accept card on the day, you must have cash.
Make it VERY VERY clear you need to rent a Helmet. last time i asked if helmet hire was available and do i need ....................
Cheers, Errol.

now thats a write up.

cheers mate, i have printed this out and will work through everything.
ive got the feeling im not going to be going really hard, just having fun. might try and take it easy on the brakes but we will see.
as for the fluids i will be getting most of the swapped over about 2 weeks before the event so that should be fine.
at this track event the timing of laps is actually banned and im not looking at taking off tenths of seconds per lap.
this will be my first and maybe my only track day event so im not going to turn my car into a fully blown track car like listy's.

its good to hear all this great advice and i thank you all for your imput.

[feistl]

now thats a write up.

Yeah, wasnt meant to be that long but just kept thinking of things.




cheers mate, i have printed this out and will work through everything.
ive got the feeling im not going to be going really hard, just having fun.

this will be my first and maybe my only track day event so im not going to turn my car into a fully blown track car like listy's.

Thats what they all say.... Trust me, after a day on the track you'll just want more. Its how it starts...

Ive kept my car as a weekender, but it is setup for the track. So it still has full interior, road legal and enjoyable to drive. Obviously this limits how much performance you can get, but you need to find that balance.

I dont suggest turning it into a track day only car (otherwise you'd be better off buying a Exec V8/man), but doing "reliability" type upgrades should help on the road as well. Eg decent pads and fluid helps the car pull up nicer on the road, replacing hoses/fluids etc again helps the reliability.

Its an addictive hobby, but bloody good fun. They also have race drivers there who will assist you... I spent most of the day with Tony Dalberto (V8 supercar driver).

Im hoping to write up a full guide on getting a car ready for the track, just need some time.

Cheers, Errol.

[hsv-105]

see my problem with getting new tyres is they are very exspensive and will only last me for 1 or 2 events, something like that. i dont think i can justify spending that sort of cash on something that will waste away. the other mods for me will also improve the car long term as it is a daily driver.

If you can't afford a set of R Spec tyres every 2 -3 Trackdays mate then I would be considering whether you can really afford the track days full stop.

It's an expensive hobby and the more shortcuts you take the more it will cost in the long term.

would suggest the following as a minimum -

1/ R Spec tyres
2/ Good brake fluid and pads
3/ PS Cooler
4/ Suspension.

Forget about the power until you have these items covered.

Good luck.

[feistl]

Ill have a look tonight and work out what tyres i was using, but they were Dunlops at $390 each (18"). We did effectively 2 full sessions (double sessions on one day) and they had HEAPS of tread left at the end. Id say you'd get at LEAST 10 sessions from them (for $1600).

Suspension isnt that important though... Its going to slow you down but it wont kill the car. Coolers and quality oils/brakes is far more important. After all, having body roll and understeer through the corners wont results in a blown engine/or track day over.

[andrewslr]

If cost is an issue, and from experience trust me it will be, think about 17" wheels if they clear your brakes. Tyres are significantly cheaper and 17" HSV wheels are a dime a dozen.

As I've said in other track day threads, focus on improving the driver first. Too many people hide their lack of ability in big HP cars. Anyone can be quick in a straight line, the real challenge is braking and cornering.

That said, your going to have an absolutely awesome time out there.

Also think about joing the HSVOC in Vic. They run one of the best motorsport days club series in the state IMHO.

[MickmeMate]

It is long winded but worth a read as I have been through all this with a similar car.

Job number 1 is power steering cooler. PWR are good as is ASE
Job 2 is high temp brake fluid and make sure the stock pads have decent amount of meat on the. Front and rear. If you change the pads to higher spec one dont work the brakes too hard as they will crack (if you have the stock drilled rotors). Keep to the stock pads and do reasonable stops without going silly for 2 hard laps. Max is 2 hard laps but after this back off the brakes and do some more reasonable braking and laps.
Overfill the engine oil by about 1/2 a litre. Check it half way through the day and bring spares. Put new oil in it would be good too.
Check the clutch fluid is good and not black. Change if required
Watch the guages out on the track and get used to watching like engine temps, oil warning light
Check your mirrors all the time and never over do it that may cause damage to the car.

As for mods forget the engine and suspension at this stage. My sway bars are still stock.
My advise get some semi slicks (get the Yokohalma 050) and 18 inch wheels. Plenty second hand or better still 18x8 BMW 3 series copies in about +35 to +40 offset. About $190 each wheel and tyres about $1800. Then get some camber dialed in to about -3 on the front. I gained nearly 5 seconds a lap from street to semi slicks and that is without any camber.

If you insist on mods ( I think you clutch was fixed from memory) but that would be first, then rip shifter
Also the stock diff hydratrack can let things down on the circuit and I found nearly 1.5 seconds just from a decent diff. I fitted a trutrack.

After consider the suspension but Teins are a all round suspension and to get them really working on the track allowing camber does take a bit of extra work with different springs and offset top strut mounts. If you fit adjustable other brands suspenion DO make sure the bottom lock nuts clear the top of the tyres. Some aftermarket suspension can completly bugger any chance of camber.

Those cars make pretty good power and have not a bad intake and tune either from stock. I spent $3500 on ORI, exhaust, tune and it gained about 20rwkw. Made almost no difference on the track other than causing the already overheating issue to get heaps worse. Same with the stock Teins and I gained nothing. Once I sorted camber, spring rates etc the times came down.

Down therei I would say the overheating would not be such a issue. Good to check those guages anyway

WOW!! I cant believe after all those mods you only gained 20rwkw!! Something not right there. The OTR and Tune alone should have seen you get at least 20rwkw. Was that a full exhaust .headers.high flow cats???

[feistl]

Also think about joing the HSVOC in Vic. They run one of the best motorsport days club series in the state IMHO.

Can you join in a commodore? Or does anyone know of any other events (ideally at philip island) for a track/test day type event?

[Veeate]

If you can't afford a set of R Spec tyres every 2 -3 Trackdays mate then I would be considering whether you can really afford the track days full stop.

It's an expensive hobby and the more shortcuts you take the more it will cost in the long term.

would suggest the following as a minimum -

1/ R Spec tyres
2/ Good brake fluid and pads
3/ PS Cooler
4/ Suspension.

Forget about the power until you have these items covered.

Good luck.


While these are all great points from an experienced operator i do question why you can't do track days without R spec tyres ?

Sure if you are chasing every last second and really want to be competitive you will be kidding yourself without good tyres.

But i have done plenty of track days on my standard road tyres and still managed to have a lot of fun. And a lot of other people who do track days just for fun also turn up on road spec tyres.

I guess the question is are you doing this for a bit of fun or are you taking it to the next level ?

Regardless the points made about reliability (coolers, brake fluid etc) are very valid. I have unfortunately had to be towed out of Oran Park once when my power steering boiled and split a hose on a previous VX Clubsport i had. Very frustrating.......

[feistl]

While these are all great points from an experienced operator i do question why you can't do track days without R spec tyres ?


Mainly because road tyres dont last long. Last track day one of the Suburu drivers used an ENTIRE set of potenza re001s. That was about $1500 of rubber, completely worn at the end of the day.

As mentioned above, the Dunlops i was using are $390 each, and should easily get you 8-10 track days in a full weight commodore. They'll also grip better and last longer.

[Veeate]

Mainly because road tyres dont last long. Last track day one of the Suburu drivers used an ENTIRE set of potenza re001s. That was about $1500 of rubber, completely worn at the end of the day.

As mentioned above, the Dunlops i was using are $390 each, and should easily get you 8-10 track days in a full weight commodore. They'll also grip better and last longer.

If you have never done a track day before and are a rookie and aren't going to be driving 10/10th's then street rubber is fine. If you have a basic standard HSV car then the limiting factor will probably be brakes. I have the 6/4 AP setup with quality fluid, pads , braided lines etc and frankly the brakes will only do about 6 hard laps of Oran Park GP circuit before they give up the ghost.

After your first track day you can then decide if you are going to take it further, do it seriously and what changes you want on your car.

[andrewslr]

Can you join in a commodore? Or does anyone know of any other events (ideally at philip island) for a track/test day type event?

Needs to be an HSV plated car. BUT if you have a CAMS L2S (?) licence and belong to a CAMS affiliated club you can join in any other club's motorsport days.

Some may baulk but the HSVOC are very open to non-club entrants joining in. You still get timed but don't score any points for their club competition.

For Phillip Island you can join PIARC or alternatively Holden Motor Sport Club. Check out their websites.

[2ajmanvell82]

Once you have one go u will be addicted but still want to remember u have a street/track car not a track only car. My ute around wakefield with 500rwhp standard HSV brakes and 20" street tyres with my coilovers was great nothing overheated and was fine, good fluids make a big difference as even my fathers VE SS had no problems and we were doing between 8-12 hard laps where alot of people drive there say can't do it without brake fade and power steering boiling.
Definately invest in good quality fluids to start with and if decent street rubber for first event will be fine(some street tyres can be not even good enough for the street??), a good look at how much brake pad you have and ease yourself into it feel how it all responds. Everyone's car and driving is different.

Since doing track day i have decided for next one i want more out of it and set up braided lines, street/track pads, racing fluid, 18"wheels/semi's and looking at a better way to hold myself in seat as i'm actually a paraplegic and i was just as quick as my Father and mate just eased myself in. awesome fun and enjoy yourself!

Whichever mods you do think of the street driving aswell a bit of a compromise for both worlds not 100% track!!

[sv300 - 75]

Ill have a look tonight and work out what tyres i was using, but they were Dunlops at $390 each (18"). We did effectively 2 full sessions (double sessions on one day) and they had HEAPS of tread left at the end. Id say you'd get at LEAST 10 sessions from them (for $1600).

Suspension isnt that important though... Its going to slow you down but it wont kill the car. Coolers and quality oils/brakes is far more important. After all, having body roll and understeer through the corners wont results in a blown engine/or track day over.

good call on that. ive been convinced by the masses to focus on reliability and keeping the car running so to speak. i have just got to source a power steering cooler and get that installed. all the oils and fluids will be replaced soon as well.

[WOT]

Power schmower, every race track makes a street car feel like it just lost 100kW. A nice exhuast will at least make you feel like you're going quick.

I predict if you're a) any good or b) start to get the bug, you'll soon find understeer to be the most annoying part of the car, especially turn 1 at Sandown.

Understeer must be banished at all costs!!!! :vpo: That's why I bought an Evo IX after I took my VY2 SS to Sandown.

[HSV Listy]

WOW!! I cant believe after all those mods you only gained 20rwkw!! Something not right there. The OTR and Tune alone should have seen you get at least 20rwkw. Was that a full exhaust .headers.high flow cats???

Not on the VX GTS (SV300 I guess too). Stock, untuned etc was 245rwkw and after those mods it was 267 (Orrsom ORI, Di fillipo 1/34 headers and 2.5 inch exhaust and a good safe tune) . It is only 290rwkw now with 8TB, decent cam, head shave and I have put truck loads more $ into now. My $ per kw gain is about the worst there is. The heat and humidity sucks power but still the handling and grip make up for it.
As mentioned no time gain around the track with the extra power and the stock teins made no difference. Now they have been modified, more race suitable springs and allow camber there is good gains with them now. The older GTSs had a fair bit of upgraded works and pretty good suspension and sway bars already.

Drop into holden and grab a VZ strut brace as they are abotu $45. Cheap and easy mod and might help a little with understeer

[HSV Listy]

Power schmower, every race track makes a street car feel like it just lost 100kW. A nice exhuast will at least make you feel like you're going quick.

I predict if you're a) any good or b) start to get the bug, you'll soon find understeer to be the most annoying part of the car, especially turn 1 at Sandown.

Understeer must be banished at all costs!!!! :vpo: That's why I bought an Evo IX after I took my VY2 SS to Sandown.

Have to agree. Understeer cost time but oversteer costs more. That is what I found anyway. Thankfully the old GTS is about neutral now. Ironically the LPG tank in the back helps with weight distribution too. Closer to 50/50 than before and the tank sits directly over the back wheels so works pretty good instead of the weight of the fuel hanging over right at the back. The stock fuel tank is lower though

[sv300 - 75]

after some thinking last night i might just go for the power steering cooler and new and better oils. might leave the suspension and power mods for now and see how i go. good to see how the car goes when its almost stock.

does anyone know how much i can pick up a power steering cooler and also are they hard to install? just looking at costs before i speak to my workshop, as you all know i dont want to be ripped off.

[feistl]

You can buy kits from places like ASE for around $750, i wouldn't have thought installation was that much. (maybe a couple of hours)

As i mentioned earlier, i just puchased an engine oil cooler from a GSXR750 for $150 from the wreckers. They have a box of em in good condition, so lots of sizes etc to choose from.

I then made some custom brackets to hold in place, and a few meters of high temp/high pressure 10mm hose from Bursons (about $25). Also a few hose clamps for $5 and used the existing lines etc.

(Bottom Cooler, Top Cooler is engine oil). Worked a treat last weekend at Sandown. We were doing 40 minutes straight for the whole day, and kept the fluid nice and cool. Didnt have an issue with leaks etc...

So yeah, depends if you can do the work yourself (or know someone that can) or need to buy a kit. Personally i dont see how a basic cooler could be worth $750 :O Just make sure you get a cooler with ~10mm pipes so you the hose fits on both ends.

http://img200.imageshack.us/img200/3758/dscf4080v.jpg

[HSV Listy]

PWR have them for about $90. That is the one i have used for a number of years. THe lines were done by my mechanic and connections and fittings installed and supplied by a mobile hydraulics place. Ended up be quicker and cheaper to get them to drop in for the final connections. $110 for the hydraulic people including fittings and about 1.5 hours for the mechanics time to mount and run the hoses.

[Budge]

My advice is if you're not racing for sheep stations then save you money on tyres until you are really driving the car hard.

As others have mentioned tyre ARE everything but if you're just starting out you'll be nowhere near the limits of your car or even a second hand set of semi's yet anyway.

Get a good helmet, some shoes to drive in that let you really feel the brake pedal and some gloves that help you grip the wheel.

Money to be spent on the car initially is some good fluids. Engine, diff and transmission are going to be working harder than ever so help them out.

Make sure your rotors are in good condition. Get some good pads. You need to figure out if you are wanting a street/track pad or a track only pad which you'll change each time. There's a big advantage in getting a nice track only pad which only works when hot. Flush out your old brake fluid and pump through something that's gonna work when hot and not be boiling by the 3rd big stop.

You probably won't need a power steering cooler initially for Sandown but you will soon.. especially if you do the high rev long corners of Phillip Island etc.

p.s. Good Luck, have fun and don't be a hero on lap 1. :)

[Martin_D]

As others have mentioned tyre ARE everything but if you're just starting out you'll be nowhere near the limits of your car or even a second hand set of semi's yet anyway.

Yes tyres ARE everything thats for sure.
My EVO is essentially stock, well kind of, but it rolls on these bad boys, which after testing tomorrow should be good enough for around 1.5 seconds a lap improvement. These are only $2600 a set, normally finding 1.5 seconds in the EVO has come in $5000 increments at a time.....tyres are cheap! :cool:
http://www.ls1turbo.com.au/pics/slicks.jpg
Most important of all, use your mirrors and be aware of much faster cars coming up behind you. The fast guys will deal you out some pretty harsh punishment if you dont......so stay awake and aware :cool:

I hope all the Porsches Im going to thrash tomorrow are reading this and taking note of the last sentence :hide:

[sv300 - 75]

some updates on my progress.
just got some platinum NGK spark plugs which needed replacing anyways.
purchased a Harrop sports diff cover that i wanted to get rid of my axle tramp, plus it helps with the temp of the diff.
about to purchase a TEIN tower strut brace from luke at WSP.
looking around for some braided lines
also might get a PWR cooler but still got to contact them about that.

and then gotta book the car in to change all the oils and get everything changed over.

[V8LS1]

also might get a PWR cooler but still got to contact them about that.


If you can afford it, go the power steering cooler while you having other work done - you'll have so much fun at Sandown, you will be hooked (guaranteed!) and will end up having a go at Winton and Phillip Island too. Other's told me about the power steering heating dramas at Winton and they were all spot on - my VY Clubbie experienced the same issues - so it's worth putting a cooler on in advance!

You should then definitely get your CAMS license by joining a club, and then contact the HSVOC and participate in their track days - very well organised, loads of fun, plenty of drivers to learn from by watching what they do right and wrong (!) and heaps of friendly people there too.

Just a note based on experience - its worth having your radiator checked out before hand. The first full track day I did (similar format to what you've mentioned) I paid a fortune for only to have overheating dramas (it was Black Saturday and we were at Sandown - high ambient and track temps). The Clubbie just kept over heating... couldn't do a full lap without the engine temp soaring. Driving on the road though, the car was fine - for some reason, the radiator wasn't keeping up for higher temps, but was fine otherwise. I had a PWR radiator put in and haven't had dramas since. It could avoid disappointment on your first outing!

Enjoy the day and have a blast!

[RB30-POWER]

i did a track day for the first time earlier in the year at oran park south in my vy calais (1720+kg without driver)

had a blast, i found the 3 main limitations to lap times were in this order.

1) driver
2) brakes
3) tyres

car has fe2 suspension from factory and 18" wheels, same as an ss.

honestly the car had much more if you were prepared to push it, but because of no insurance on track, i didn't want it ending up in the wall just to be a second or two quicker.

the standard brakes were fitted with A1RM QFM pads allround and new super dot 4 fluid and because of the repeated 160+km/h-60km/h stops on the first corner the brakes pads ended up cooked upon removal but didn't fade because i worked within their limitations and was mindful of them.

front tyres ended up buggered on the outside front edges because of lack of camber, so be careful with good tyres but factory camber specs or you might just ruin good tyres straight up.

my car was fitted with synthetic engine oil, transmission service, massive power steer cooler and trans coolers fitted before the day, these allowed me to have a stress free day with reliability.

do yourself a favour, fit good pads, fit big trans cooler, fit tranny cooler if it's auto, replace brake fluid/flush system with super dot 4 spec as bare minimum.


i have since updgraded the brakes to hsv spec, fitted superpro caster rod bushes to replace factory hydraulic units that move around too much and look forward to heading back to another track day soon.


my temp gauge got up to 3/4 on repeated hard laps after 15-20min sessions, apparently this is normal and i know nothing is wrong with the cooling system so i reduced speed/ended session once this started to happen as i figured the brakes would probably go soon as well.

[sv300 - 75]

hey people,

just a quick question, how much have you paid for stainless steel braided brake lines?

if you have ADR approved lines please also quote that figure.
im trying to figure out if im being ripped off.

[feistl]

hey people,

just a quick question, how much have you paid for stainless steel braided brake lines?

if you have ADR approved lines please also quote that figure.
im trying to figure out if im being ripped off.

Hey mate,

Glad to hear things are coming along nicely. From memory you can get braided ADR approved lines on Ebay for around $400 a set... So i think their about $100 each...

Have a look in the for sale section as well, there are some cheap semi slicks in Melbourne.

Also make sure you've got some spare fuel, as you dont want to be driving to the servo to fill up.

Cheers

[sv300 - 75]

yeah i got some lines for $535 so thats about right then, please note its 6 lines.
ive already got some semi slicks so im set for that.

dont know how im going to get the extra fuel but i will figure something out.

[TunedBy]

very simple solution for you.

brake pads and R-Types.

@ sandown (power track) you will fly through the straights and i mean a V8 will simply haul @55.

the troubule it Sandown is a bit like watching NASCAR, go straight, turn left, go straight turn left and repeat until we say stop.

soo more power is only good in the straights for you, you still have to wash off 200km/h to make 90degree turns soo if you cannot

1. wash off the speed without cooking your brakes in two laps, you will have to pit after two laps.
2. keep your tyres on the road while washing off that speed, the best brakes, suspension mods and horsepower will not help you.

i'd suggest getting (minimum) EBC green stuff pads on the front, possibly red stuff

then get some R-Types, Yokohama make the control tyre used by V8's, Porsche clubman series, etc.

buy a 2nd set of stock rims and fit them up.

then buy a strut brace and enjoy.

then i think you will find you will out break and out accelerate the more powerful cars that cannot get through the corners or brake as hard as you.

[sv300 - 75]

yeah mate i have done pretty much exactly that.

i have some second hand R888 toyo tyres, still plenty of tread.
the tyres are on a set of R8 clubby rims 18'.
ive got some bendix ultimates pads, only because they are factory original and they were cheap.
i have the strut brace and its amazing, just tightens up the front end.

and im getting my sureflo single 3.5" cat back fitted today so that should make the car sound a whole lot better.

im also getting my tyres filled with nitrogen today and getting the cars suspension tweaked to handle better on the track.

[GHZ28]

Be sure to flush the brake fluid through too, change to a 600*F type, like Motul 600 or Castrol SRF.

The ultimates should be OK for a mild track day, but SRT might be a better compromise, and not too dear either.

gh

[sv300 - 75]

thanks mate, got everything sorted, new braided lines comes with new fluid and its some good stuff (not sure what it is exactly).

also justin if you are reading, i cant seem to pm you.
dont know whats happened. i went to donny and finished in 04.

[Budge]

There's a lot of time to be found on a racetrack getting out of corners, especially those that lead onto long straights.

To do this you need good grip and good suspension keeping your tyres on the road. I would sacrifice (a little) power to a car that hooked up well out of corners.

If you're going to really attack some late braking points I wouldn't use EBC if they were free (saying that I haven't tried their Blue Race pad - Don't use green/red on the track.

Bendix Race, Hawk Blue, Hawk HT-10>14 are the pads you need.

p.s.You'll probably cook your Ultimates :)

[justin_d]

That's weird about the PM. Oh well. Have fun and don't push it too hard!

[sv300 - 75]

There's a lot of time to be found on a racetrack getting out of corners, especially those that lead onto long straights.

To do this you need good grip and good suspension keeping your tyres on the road. I would sacrifice (a little) power to a car that hooked up well out of corners.

If you're going to really attack some late braking points I wouldn't use EBC if they were free (saying that I haven't tried their Blue Race pad - Don't use green/red on the track.

Bendix Race, Hawk Blue, Hawk HT-10>14 are the pads you need.

p.s.You'll probably cook your Ultimates :)

yeah mate probably will but its too late now, got no more money left and not enough time till the track day. got lots to do tomorow.

[sv300 - 75]

well everything is ready for the track day tomorrow.

new sureflo 3.5" med/loud cat back is on and sounds great but not quite loud enough yet. cats will follow with some new headers.
all the semi slick tyres are all balanced up and filled with nitrogen, dont know what they will be like but it just sounds cool to have nitrogen in your tyres.
all the oils are new and improved.
front tower strut brace is fitted and feels great.
car is striped down with all my crap gone. this includes things like sound system and spare tyre and some weather seals on the engine bay (they will go back on after).

im soo pumped and just eager to get out there. gonna take it easy up first then just work into it.

if anyone else is going along tomorrow to sandown, just come over and say hi. my car is an dark green SV300 and the name is brendan.

cheers and thanks to eveyone on this forum for giving me advice and hint to what i should upgrade and leave as it is.

[Budge]

Awesome, have fun!

One other thing... you probably want your semi's to run about 30psi HOT.

I'd start them at 30 cold for your first session and just go out and feel out the car and track. When you come off the track bleed some air out of the tyres so that they come back down to 30psi all round. Do that after every session.

If it starts to rain take it easy over the fast left hander on the back straight, you can come a cropper there pretty easily in the wet and then stay off the ripple strips too. You can straight line the one on the right coming down towards Dandenong Rd (XR8) wet or dry, you'll see the one I mean.

Also it gets very slippery into T2 on cold wet days and coming onto the front straight and as it's your first time just remember to do all your braking before you turn.

[justin_d]

How did you go?

[sv300 - 75]

How did you go?

yeah it started out being a great day.
nice and dry, still cold so the car was running well.

first session i thought i was taking it easy but i was actually pushing the limit, my mistake.

second session was way better, took it easyer on the braking markers, so i was braking early and coasting through the corners then powering out. this made it more fun as i wasnt worrying too much about braking at 100% and coming up short.

we then had lunch when it started to rain.

third session was fun and scary. because it was wet it was very very slippery. so i was taking it easy.

forth session was still raining but this session i wanted to go a bit faster but i couldnt because i had absolutly no traction. picture this, thrid gear 2000rpm going slow and easy through the corner, i exit the corner onto a straight and ease on the power and i loose traction.

after that session i called it a day, i wasnt having fun in the rain and it was not going to stop raining.

all in all it was a great day, i plan on doing another one but during summer when its deffinatly not going to rain.

[Grant]

yeah it started out being a great day.
nice and dry, still cold so the car was running well.

first session i thought i was taking it easy but i was actually pushing the limit, my mistake.

second session was way better, took it easyer on the braking markers, so i was braking early and coasting through the corners then powering out. this made it more fun as i wasnt worrying too much about braking at 100% and coming up short.

we then had lunch when it started to rain.

third session was fun and scary. because it was wet it was very very slippery. so i was taking it easy.

forth session was still raining but this session i wanted to go a bit faster but i couldnt because i had absolutly no traction. picture this, thrid gear 2000rpm going slow and easy through the corner, i exit the corner onto a straight and ease on the power and i loose traction.

after that session i called it a day, i wasnt having fun in the rain and it was not going to stop raining.

all in all it was a great day, i plan on doing another one but during summer when its deffinatly not going to rain.

It could have been worse, you could have been out there today! We didn't get a dry lap all day. It was still great fun, just a bit hairy at times. It seems I've got a suspension issue (possibly wheel alignment error after car was lowered) which was causing massive oversteer on turn in, and power down on exit was just a fantasy. It basically wanted to swap ends if I was doing anything other than going straight ahead. I was still breaking traction passed the start/finish line on the main straight and basically couldn't keep the thing in a straight line linking together the rest of the corners. Watching MX-5's and IS250's pull away from me on corner exit was incredibly frustrating. Off to see the suspension man...

[HSV Listy]

Good to see it went well. Proberly different down there to up here but rain is part of a track day in the wet season. Morning dry and afternoon heavy as hell. Shame that it buggered up a good full days racing through .

After a bit of time you will consider rain a challenge and drive as hard as the car will let you go without channeling too much and becoming freinds with walls. It certainly does help knowing the track very well too.

Good thing is no damage and do mechanical issues. That is a dam fine day out on its own and you did well preping the car.

Well done

[feistl]

Hey man,

Was good to see you down there, sorry i didnt say goodbye, was still out on the track :)

Yeah weather was a pain in the arvo, got worse between 3-4pm.

Your car sounded pretty sweet down the straight, V8s just sound right on the track. You reckon you'll be back? Once you stop trying to go fast, its actually enjoyable and the speed will come. As Listy said, the car is fine so it was a good day out.

For the record, 3 cars blew their engines, and 1 crashed. Another 2 went home on tow trucks due to mechanical failure. So could have been a lot worse...

I actually enjoyed the wet, more time to think during the corners and get the technique right. I was impressed with how much traction i was getting, the boys at Bridgestone in Rowville did an amazing job getting the car to handle properly, and the semi slicks were actually good in the wet.

Only time i had an issue was going up the back straight at about 160ish when it broke traction... that was interesting lol.

Its better in good weather conditions, and usually there are less "incidents" so you get more track time.

Still, good day out. Looking forward to the one next week. Grant, what track day were you doing?

EDIT - oh and what the hell was with that stock EL XR6 in group 3? I nearly ran him over like 3 times.... he shouldnt have been aloud out in that group

[sv300 - 75]

Hey man,

Was good to see you down there, sorry i didnt say goodbye, was still out on the track :)

Yeah weather was a pain in the arvo, got worse between 3-4pm.

Your car sounded pretty sweet down the straight, V8s just sound right on the track. You reckon you'll be back? Once you stop trying to go fast, its actually enjoyable and the speed will come. As Listy said, the car is fine so it was a good day out.

For the record, 3 cars blew their engines, and 1 crashed. Another 2 went home on tow trucks due to mechanical failure. So could have been a lot worse...

I actually enjoyed the wet, more time to think during the corners and get the technique right. I was impressed with how much traction i was getting, the boys at Bridgestone in Rowville did an amazing job getting the car to handle properly, and the semi slicks were actually good in the wet.

Only time i had an issue was going up the back straight at about 160ish when it broke traction... that was interesting lol.

Its better in good weather conditions, and usually there are less "incidents" so you get more track time.

Still, good day out. Looking forward to the one next week. Grant, what track day were you doing?

EDIT - oh and what the hell was with that stock EL XR6 in group 3? I nearly ran him over like 3 times.... he shouldnt have been aloud out in that group

yeah it was a good day for me, as both you and listy say, no problems with my car and crashing. not to say the least for all the jap crap that broke down and the m5 but that was his fault, 5th to 2nd at 140 is not good......

if i can convince my dad to store the tyres under the house i might just make it out there for another track day but it needs to be dry so that i can get used to driving in the dry first then bring on the wet weather.

you lost traction at 160 because you have a beast of a car. i maxed out at 120 during the wet sessions.

thanks to everyone and happy motoring :driving:

[Grant]

Hey man,

Grant, what track day were you doing?
group

I was at a John Bowe Driving high performance day...