Best battery...

[RED R8]

My battery is approaching 3 years old and is starting to struggle so I would like to replace it..Whats the best battery for head and cam combo with raised compression and sound system with amps and subs etc ? the car is mostly used for small trips and can sit for 4 to 5 days at a time un-driven. I was told about some dry cell geeza ?? any suggestions.

[rosey]

If you've got a bit of coin to spare get an optima yellow top deep cycle (talk to joe bellissimo). I on the other hand just got a Delkor 610CCA dry cell, cranks over the big girl with ease. I don't have much of a stereo though... yet. Only cost $180iirc

[Wonky]

Optima Yellow Top D34. On eBay for $350 - $400 new, but occasionally can pick them up cheaper. Expensive but great!!

[duke5700]

I have an Optima Red top as I don't have the sound system stuff. Best battery I have ever used. You can leave them for 12 months and they will maintain enough charge to turn over the car :eek: I have a 800cca version. Would turn over a truck if needed ;)

[HEKYEH]

Optima Yellow Top D34.

That is all.

[OPTIMUS]

yea d34, battery king in perth sell em for 350$ sometimes battery world sell them for a reasonable price too

[HEKYEH]

I can't fault my D34 at all....

I've got full exhaust and cam done...but the main killer is the stereo.

5 amps. 3way front stage. 2 12" subs. Over 3000wrms in my system.

Optima D34 doesn't miss a beat. Don't get any light dimming. Starts first crank every time.

[Blown 540]

If you got 3 years out of the one you have , get the same one, i have had Lifeline battery's not last that long.

[RED R8]

Awesome I shall get one. At the moment my headlights literaly flash with the stereo pumpin.

[6.2L.Club]

As said, optima D34 yellow top, check coventry's. They have had them on special for $300 before. Also ask Len, he works at batteries plus.

You will still get light dimming with a decent stereo. I run two optima D34's and a 25 farrad cap and still get some dimming at high volumes. Unless you run multiple alternators or extremely high output ones, you always will.

[GRUNTS]

i've had a delkor 22F-520 in my car for two years now( i'm moving it to my sons VP) and just purchased the 610 for my car $170. can't fault the delkors for the price have them in our other two cars as well

[RED R8]

I bought and installed a Optima D34 yellow top today cranks over much much better and yes your right Tim the lights still dim a little when stereo is cranking but its about 90% better than B4...thanks for the help guys.

[iloveholden]

Awesome I shall get one. At the moment my headlights literaly flash with the stereo pumpin.

Sick! R8 with strobes! :lol:

[HEKYEH]

As said, optima D34 yellow top, check coventry's.
You will still get light dimming with a decent stereo. I run two optima D34's and a 25 farrad cap and still get some dimming at high volumes. Unless you run multiple alternators or extremely high output ones, you always will.

I disagree.

As I mentioned, I have over 3000wrms in my system and I get NO LIGHT DIMMING at all. I don't have a capacitor either (MY opinion and experience is that they are pretty much worthless).

Why don't I have any dimming then?

Because I have several earths from my battery to a very well grounded chasis point. I have also added additional earths in the engine bay - engine to chasis and alternator to chasis.

Do this, and you should not have ANY issue at all....

That is unless you plan on competing in SPL with 8 x 12" woofers and 10K+wrms....then you might have to look at multiple batteries...

[shaunv8]

Awesome I shall get one. At the moment my headlights literaly flash with the stereo pumpin.

If thats the case, I would assume you should have a "cap" in the system to store power when the stereo requires it..

[HEKYEH]

For everyone that thinks a capacitor is the solution to dimming lights, please go to www.mobileelectronics.com.au/forums/ (http://www.mobileelectronics.com.au/forums/) and do a search on there regarding capacitors.

Plenty of debate...but the general consensus is that they are a bandaid solution to a bigger problem.

[EXCESSV]

good option on the battery daz.
had a D34 for over a year now and going strong. no dimming issues here at all


on the capacitor front i think they are the biggest waste. i didnt like them and my stereo install mate with 20+ years experience also doesnt like them but i got convinced on how great they were buy a "friend" and got one.....sold it a few months ago as it was more issue than good.

[QldKev]

I disagree.

As I mentioned, I have over 3000wrms in my system and I get NO LIGHT DIMMING at all. I don't have a capacitor either (MY opinion and experience is that they are pretty much worthless).

Why don't I have any dimming then?

Because I have several earths from my battery to a very well grounded chasis point. I have also added additional earths in the engine bay - engine to chasis and alternator to chasis.

Do this, and you should not have ANY issue at all....

That is unless you plan on competing in SPL with 8 x 12" woofers and 10K+wrms....then you might have to look at multiple batteries...


3000wrms output x 80% efficient amp (class D) @ 14.4v = 260amps.
Plus the draw of the engine running, allow another min 50amps.

So you must have an at least 310amp alternator to handle that peak load, and to carry the amperage to the amps without suffering huge volt drop must be running some serious cable; I’m assuming runs of 2 or 1 gauge to the main amps.

That is one kick arse system. I’m jealous, still building mine up.

As you also mentioned the earth capability must be well planned out. Not only from amps to the earth and battery to earth, but also onto the engine block for high output alternators.

Caps are useful to cover up short comings in the system, but that is all they do; often they are a lot better than nothing.

QldKev

[acecv8]

RED r8, did you have to modify your terminals to put the optima in? if you did what parts did you get?
Also where abouts did you get yours from? i'm in the market for one soon as well.

[RED R8]

RED r8, did you have to modify your terminals to put the optima in? if you did what parts did you get?
Also where abouts did you get yours from? i'm in the market for one soon as well.

The terminals are on the wrong side so I had to bend them out flat you'll know what I mean when you do it but no parts were needed other than the battery. The positive terminal also ends up close to the battery clamp that holds it down so I stuck a rubber block under the top clamp to help hold the battery tight and prevent it from slipping and touching terminals the whole job took 20mins with very few tools needed.

[RED R8]

RED r8, did you have to modify your terminals to put the optima in? if you did what parts did you get?
Also where abouts did you get yours from? i'm in the market for one soon as well.

The terminals are on the wrong side so I had to bend them out flat you'll know what I mean when you do it but no parts were needed other than the battery. The positive terminal also ends up close to the battery clamp that holds it down so I stuck a rubber block under the top clamp to help hold the battery tight and prevent it from slipping and touching terminals the whole job took 20mins with very few tools needed.

[Wonky]

The terminals are on the wrong side so I had to bend them out flat you'll know what I mean when you do it but no parts were needed other than the battery. The positive terminal also ends up close to the battery clamp that holds it down so I stuck a rubber block under the top clamp to help hold the battery tight and prevent it from slipping and touching terminals the whole job took 20mins with very few tools needed.

Yup. Took an auto elec about 30 mins to fit one in my ute given the more difficult access. Only minor modifications needed - from memory snipping off part of a bracket that was close to the positive terminal was one thing.

[XUV]

What's the difference between the RED and the YELLOW Optima ?

[HEKYEH]

3000wrms output x 80% efficient amp (class D) @ 14.4v = 260amps.
Plus the draw of the engine running, allow another min 50amps.

So you must have an at least 310amp alternator to handle that peak load, and to carry the amperage to the amps without suffering huge volt drop must be running some serious cable; I’m assuming runs of 2 or 1 gauge to the main amps.

That is one kick arse system. I’m jealous, still building mine up.

As you also mentioned the earth capability must be well planned out. Not only from amps to the earth and battery to earth, but also onto the engine block for high output alternators.

Caps are useful to cover up short comings in the system, but that is all they do; often they are a lot better than nothing.

QldKev

Also, don't forget that music is dynamic, so very rare that I would go anywhere near the full amp load. Plus my gains are set quite low to avoid any possible clipping.

Everyone has a different opinion on caps/sound deadening/turbos/superchargers.....etc etc...

[Wonky]

What's the difference between the RED and the YELLOW Optima ?

See http://www.optimabatteries.com.au/

[SirNemesis]

In short, Yellow is a deep cycle battery, Red is not.

[HoldenOnn]

I would stick to the same type (calcium) and same size (cca) as the original fitted battery. This will then give you the best performance from your car with regards to the computer and battery management systems onboard the VE's.

[LUXRYAZ]

nicxe thread cheers boys im getting one this weekend hopefully i can find one cheap .

[383hq]

just bought a yellow top D34 from the batteries direct.com.au , delivered for $322
red tops are about the same price.
Happy with the battery and no driving around town, or time spent chasing best prices on the phone. (although I was quoted $390 locally when verifying the price)


Take 4 - link above will not post so I've removed it - use google

[Knight Phlier]

Just spoke to Optima rep about fitting to a VE; He advised the R35 fits easier cause you don't have to swap terminals around?

Did you guys have to modify the Positive / Negative leads to fit the R34 in does the R35 fit easier?

[Wonky]

Optima recommended same for me but I still went the D34 because CCA is 750 compared to D35's 650. Even in the ute which is a bugger to access the battery easily fitting the D34 took about 20 - 30 mins from memory and I think the only mods required were cutting off a section of the clamp so it didn't short against the +ve terminal (auto elec did it for me). Due to access difficulties it can take half that long to just swap an OEM battery in VE ute.

[XUV]

Optima recommended same for me but I still went the D34 because CCA is 750 compared to D35's 650. .

Sh't 650 is still 200 more then standard , the factory Heavy Duty in mine is only 470 .

[SirNemesis]

You can never have too much CCA :cool:

[Wonky]

You can never have too much CCA :cool:

So true! :yup: I think the factory Statesman etc batteries are now 600 CCA - just got one for worknssv's VE ute on which the original died.

[Knight Phlier]

Got the D35 today - fitted striaght into the boot compartment no hassles. 650CCA

[XUV]

You can never have too much CCA :cool:

LOL , Being country , I agree with you , 'coz ya never know when ya gunna have to jump start a Mack :lol:

Good knews on the D35 :goodjob: lets us know if it keeps charge .