htv 2300 drive pulley sizes

[ATOMIC MALOO R8]

what sizes do the 8 pk front drive pulley for the htv 2300 come in i have a low boost 85mm x 8 pk one
what is the next size smaller to that
looking at bit more boost just a couple of psi
what is the size relation to boost pressure generally
i have got 9 / 10 psi at the moment

[ls2 cruiser]

Gday Bob, the next size down is 80mm. That is the stock size for the 2300. I would not push it too far. Cheers

[ATOMIC MALOO R8]

Gday Bob, the next size down is 80mm. That is the stock size for the 2300. I would not push it too far. Cheers

no i dont want to go over 12 psi

what psi is the stock pulley supposed to make on the ls3 i think it has a larger balancer all so mine it the stock oem size as i ordered it with the low boost pulleys was supposed to run 7 psi ?
ended up at 9/10 ?

[ls2 cruiser]

Bob, the stock balancer diameter is standard for the 2300. It just has the 80mm blower drive pulley. The HH122 has a 85mm drive pulley as stock and again uses the stock balancer size. You can get other size balancers from Harrop. If you go 80mm drive you will probably get near 12psi and a set of stretched bigends as well. A good set up for you would be 4.070 bore and 4.000 stroke with 9.1:1 static and put in 10psi and hang on.

[ATOMIC MALOO R8]

well i dont wont stretched big ends :bawl:
are all the drive pulleys interchangeable what about the off set on say vz to ve hh122 to htv2300

[ls2 cruiser]

When i pulled my ls2 down, I noticed a few signs of detonation and head lifting and bigend stress. That was 14 psi and maybe too much fuel and too much cylinder pressure. My ls2 was 11.1:1 static when I measured deck height of 9.235" and with 14 psi boost - not good. I am no expert but an extra 2 psi will increase heat and may not gain a lot. If you are still running 8-10 degrees advance than maybe try something like 12 degrees, but it should be done on the dyno. The new motor chewed up my auto so i am having a real one built -TH400 2000hp.

[ATOMIC MALOO R8]

im am running 12 deg now :)
im told that the sleeves can start to move at 14 psi as well

[Tre-Cool]

im running 10 degrees with a similar cam and my iat shoot's up on a 1/4 mile run from 50 to 80+ degrees. If i let the iat multiplier do it's thing and remove spark i drop from 122 to 118mph et's.

mine runs a 10% overdrive crank. 80mm front pulley and ribbed rear with 12psi.

[ls2 cruiser]

The forces on everything are much higher with forced induction and you really should have forged internals. That way they last a bit longer. The extra heat is a concern as well. Thats why the Ls9 heads are made of special material that can handle the heat a bit better. The Ls9 has forged crank, titanium conrods and a whole load of other strengthening bits. It runs 9.1:1 static and puts in 10.5 psi boost max. When i built my engine i sort of copied the compression and boost and am running better heads and a slightly bigger cam. Stroking the engine makes a huge difference. Hows the metal in the filter going? My auto torque converter shat and left 6mm of aluminium filings in the auto sump. Bummer . Did you notice a big difference going from 10 to 12 degrees? I forgot about the offset question VZ vs VE. I am not sure whether it is just the pulley that has the different offset or whether it is the frame of the blower. I would say at a guess that it may be the pulley that is different.

[2ajmanvell82]

I had HH122 on my VE maloo with LS2 with 10% overdriven balancer 8PK making 10psi, I then upgraded to the HTV1900 and a bigger cam lost a bit of boost through it but the HTV made boost instant and IAT's dropped 20deg, I ran the HTV with 8PK 10% o/drive balancer and 85mm pulley then put the 80mm pulley on also was 11psi with cam i was running running 13deg timing with TR6 plugs.
I still have the 8pk 80mm pulley as i bought extra to trial with and sold both superchargers running 85mm pulleys.

[ls2 cruiser]

Bob, you could maybe try 14 degress or more, but the dyno is the go. I was running 17 on my stock ls2 using the hh122 at 7.5 psi. The cooler intake temps of the later blowers means you can run more timing. My motor is not tuned yet. Needs a much stronger transmission. 2aj, what are your intake temps at full throttle. I run the TR6 plugs now as well. one heat range colder and hopefully less chance of detonation.

[2ajmanvell82]

The TR6's made a massive difference allowed more timing and when i fitted them on my HH122 I gained 30rwkw!! I was getting mid 70deg IAT's on my 122, THEN WITH MY htv1900 i was running high 40 to mid 50deg timing it was unreal, made near 70rwkw off the bottom and another 30 rwkw on top again and pulled all the way to the limiter at 6900rpm, stock ls2 with cam and springs retainers etc. OTR intake. was unreal, was running safe AFR's and timing and pulled like anything, had a sureshift built trans and 3000TCE stall, was a weapon off a street ute!

[ls2 cruiser]

That is a huge difference for intake temps. My hh122 was 65 - 70 WOT. With 14 psi I could only run 9 degrees. We tried 11 and it went backwards. With my new set up it will be interesting to see what we can run. Does anyone know what the Ls9 runs at WOT timing wise?

[Ken]

what sizes do the 8 pk front drive pulley for the htv 2300 come in i have a low boost 85mm x 8 pk one
what is the next size smaller to that
looking at bit more boost just a couple of psi
what is the size relation to boost pressure generally
i have got 9 / 10 psi at the moment

I dont know what Harrop supply now, but I designed the HTV kits to be with 85mm on pre-VE (6.0ltr LS2) & 80mm on VE (LS3). We also did a 75mm however it was prone to belt slip (see comment on ATI below). All 8PK kits were designed to use the PowerBond overdrive harmonic balancer - 5% on pre-VE and 10% on VE. Without the oversize balancer, the other FEAD components will run slightly slower. The stock sized balancer was supplied if the 2300 was being fitted to a "less-than-big" engine.

I also did another complete range of 8PK & 10PK pulleys based on the ATI balancer hub with a bespoke balancer cover/pulley. These worked very well, but were a bit more expensive to make. With that kit, the range of drive ratios varied from ~2.4:1 (low boost) thru to 3.2:1 (huge boost). If you want to have the ability to easily change drive ratios, this is the best choice (assuming it is still available).

The toothed belt rear drive is also a ratio-increasing upgrade. The standard PJ20 is 1:1, but the toothed belt is something like 1.1:1 (memory a little vauge) and other ratios were also available.

Unfortunately, the VZ vehicle range used both F-body & J-body offset pulleys depending on the particular vehicle configuration. (F-body = pre-VE, J-body = VE). The offset change is all in the pulley, but early supercharger front bearing supports (yokes) may need tweaking to fit VE <85mm pulleys if the area under the pulley is not machined.

BTW ... I typically find the best power/torque gains are made by removing the "waste" rather than adding boost. A free-flowing (pre-blower) induction system, very good intercooling, matched exhaust, & a well sorted safe calibration will often produce far better less-stressed results that just pumping more air in. My mild-cammed LS3 with HTV1900 & Dual-80 does >420rwkw all day & is a lovely drivable vehicle. I prefer running slightly less boost and a bit more timing.

:)

[ATOMIC MALOO R8]

THANKS KEN
im trying to pick up second hand 80mm for a ve ls3 2300 for a try

would the 80mm from a hh122 ve fit and line up OK

how much boost are you running ?

[Ken]

THANKS KEN
im trying to pick up second hand 80mm for a ve ls3 2300 for a try
would the 80mm from a hh122 ve fit and line up OK

Yes - anything off a L76/L98/LS3 (all VE's) should be suitable. You may need to get a shorter belt (or increase an idler/tensioner pulley) to have ideal belt tension.

[Tre-Cool]

I'll swap my 75 for the 85. cant get any cheaper than that.

i'll pull my boost back and see if i can squeeze some more timing in.

[ATOMIC MALOO R8]

I'll swap my 75 for the 85. cant get any cheaper than that.

i'll pull my boost back and see if i can squeeze some more timing in.

hi mate
thanks for the great offer
BUT
after thinking about it and doing some research i
need an 80mm that should give me 12.5 to 13 psi?
i all ready have a flat 10.5 from about 4000rpm up
apparently 5mm gives 2to3 psi according to vcm

i was wondering way the gillmer gave a bit more psi now i see the ratio is 1.11 and the grove belt drive is 1.1

what im trying to achieve is to get the boost to come on under 2000 rpm it comes on with the cam at round 2500 to 3000 and you get a double whack witch is good :woot: but you have to watch it traction wise but to get it down low i will end with to much up top with stock internals
if i could get a bit of boost down low it would make up for the loss of torque from the cam at low rpm
for my current set up i know i would be better of with a 1900 but had plans of a big stroker at the time i got the 2300 plus it came with the 8pk and injectors so was a better by
im not unhappy with it by any means just having a play

just a thought
cheers

[2ajmanvell82]

Hey Atomic I sent the PM to u.

I just checked with my dyno sheets and data and with my 85mm pulley was running 7-8psi and with the 80mm pulley was running 10.5psi, so yeah i gues 2.5-3psi would be correct.

I had the 8PK upgrade on both the HH122 and the HTV1900 to try help belt slip and ordered my HTV1900 with the 63lb injectors.
With the 1900 mine was amazingly strong from idle/cruise. Mine was making a safe 410rwkw with a 3000rpm stall in the end, We dynoed before and after stall and transferred to the dyno graph was a loss and power was shown at higher rpm from the slip, we done that so we could see the difference of the stall with no other mods and that was 365rwkw with the HH122 after stall with OTR then with the HTV1900 on slightly less peak boost and slightly richer, I made 410rwkw, massive difference down low with the efficiency of the htv rotors and the iat temps being alot cooler making a big difference, so I think not going to high of boost on std compression so as to not heat things up too much is the go.
I think that 12psi would be max u would want to run std comp and bottom end and that 14psi with less comp and forged would be good if u ever do get to stroke it.