Wheel Nut Torque Settings

[bonners]

So have done some searching around the interweb and on here. Different answers and opinions.

What are the correct torque settings for wheel nuts on a VE? Wheels are 20" aftermarket if that makes a difference.

[ittwgn]

hi not knowing the diameter of a ve wheelstud my vx 12mm x 1.5mm =80ft/pd just for comparison 1/2 inch=90ft/pd 14mmx1.5mm=95ft/pd 14x2.0mm=140ft/pd!!!!!cheers

[bonners]

Thanks mate. VE is 14mm x 1.5mm

[Ruiner]

i usually give the ones on my Vy 120nm, so id say about 125-140nm for the 14mm VE ones

[Drewie]

Don't know about the VE but the VX torque settings for the wheels are in the driver's handbook, so I would imagine the VE settings would be listed in the handbook as well.

[Peter B - CV8]

In over 30 years of car ownership & probably 100's of wheel changes, I have never been anal enough to torque up wheel nuts. So long as the wheel rim is in clean contact with the hub, and the nuts are tightened up in the correct sequence & with sufficient force (ie so you can undo them without having to resort to breaker bar), then you will be fine.

[Dreamer]

170nm For a 2007 ve ss with standard wheels, would assume the same torque for aftermarket wheels unless otherwise stated

[peter b]

rule of thumb is 110nm however aslong as you tighten them evenly in the correct sequence eg diagonally and go over them as you will be surprised as some may feel tight but when the wheel is pulled flush some are not tight so make sure you go back over each nut.

[ls1 VN]

In over 30 years of car ownership & probably 100's of wheel changes, I have never been anal enough to torque up wheel nuts. So long as the wheel rim is in clean contact with the hub, and the nuts are tightened up in the correct sequence & with sufficient force (ie so you can undo them without having to resort to breaker bar), then you will be fine.

I'M with him.....so when your g/fs, wifes are driving and get a flat you are going to be patantic enough to make her torque the wheel nuts up!!!! Oh wait, you can go to her rescue & do it for her.
Come on people get real here. This is PC over the top!!

[Toast]

So does this mean tyre/wheel stores are bone heads because they use a rattle gun and don't torque wheel nuts up???

Please... lol

[255-LS1]

rule of thumb is 110nm however aslong as you tighten them evenly in the correct sequence eg diagonally and go over them as you will be surprised as some may feel tight but when the wheel is pulled flush some are not tight so make sure you go back over each nut.

+1, if you cant tell the different between whats tight and secure and whats loose you shouldn't be touching the wheel, just do it by feel. torquing wheel nuts is a wank. :goodjob:

[bonners]

Don't know about the VE but the VX torque settings for the wheels are in the driver's handbook, so I would imagine the VE settings would be listed in the handbook as well.

I searched the book and couldnt find them. But I am happy to be proven wrong.


I'M with him.....so when your g/fs, wifes are driving and get a flat you are going to be patantic enough to make her torque the wheel nuts up!!!! Oh wait, you can go to her rescue & do it for her.
Come on people get real here. This is PC over the top!!

I asked because of an issue I had with my recent wheel change at BJ's. I tried to get the rear off and simply couldnt. I ended up having to give some force on my wheel brace by standing on it and it ended up 'breaking' the seal but I also ended up bending the brace. My wife never drives my car but she would have been in a world of trouble had she been and gotten a flat. And there is always a maybe. I certainly wouldn't be making her torque bolts on the side of the road but is it not a worthy thing to know and do in the garage? I figured if I made sure the wheels were correct I should always be able to get them off.

Good answer though.....

[Xjas]

So does this mean tyre/wheel stores are bone heads because they use a rattle gun and don't torque wheel nuts up???

Please... lol

Actually those coloured extensions they use (or are supposed to use) flex at a pre set tension so the rattle gun does torque the wheel nuts.

The torque for a VE wheel nut is on page 6-9 of the owners manual, It say "As soon as possible after changing a wheel, have the wheel nuts tightened with a torque wrench to 170 +/- 20 Nm."

I torque them, coming from the trucking industry I have seen the damage under (and over) torqued wheel nuts can do. Also with older cars the metal properties were not so well know and controlled so everthing was made with a large margin for saftey, the wheel nut tension was not so critical, modern cars everything is engineered to be just big enough to do its job so as to save on weight and cost, there is less margin for saftey and the torques on everything, not just wheel nuts, is much more critical for the fastener to correctly do its job.

[princess1]

Actually those coloured extensions they use (or are supposed to use) flex at a pre set tension so the rattle gun does torque the wheel nuts.

The torque for a VE wheel nut is on page 6-9 of the owners manual, It say "As soon as possible after changing a wheel, have the wheel nuts tightened with a torque wrench to 170 +/- 20 Nm."

I torque them, coming from the trucking industry I have seen the damage under (and over) torqued wheel nuts can do. Also with older cars the metal properties were not so well know and controlled so everthing was made with a large margin for saftey, the wheel nut tension was not so critical, modern cars everything is engineered to be just big enough to do its job so as to save on weight and cost, there is less margin for saftey and the torques on everything, not just wheel nuts, is much more critical for the fastener to correctly do its job.

best advise yet :goodjob:

[tezzastreasures]

torque setting for the ve is as said 170nm but the main point is not about the wheels it is that if you do them any tighter you will warp the discs and void any warranty from what i have been told. also if you do them any tighter it is a bitch to undo in the middle of nowhere. and it,s not nice when you get the expletive laden phone call from the wife.:bawl::bawl:

[cnnonyx]

Good thread - it has reminded me to buy a wheel brace because I have been driving without one - and wouldnt be able to change the tyre if I ever needed to. lol.

[peter b]

torque setting for the ve is as said 170nm but the main point is not about the wheels it is that if you do them any tighter you will warp the discs and void any warranty from what i have been told. also if you do them any tighter it is a bitch to undo in the middle of nowhere. and it,s not nice when you get the expletive laden phone call from the wife.:bawl::bawl:

To cause brake shudder is not so much from being overtightened is more from being tightened uneven. Doing them up diagonally and evenly will negate the need for using a torque wrench and will also not cause brake shudder.
But please remember when tightening nuts yes they have to be tight but you don't need to jump on the brace or breaker bar.
The design of the wheel nut is that once done up they will not come loose due to thread pitch, the shape of where the nut goes into the wheel becomes and interference fit, etc. So I always do them up till they stop and the wheel is sitting flush then go back over them tightening them. Tighten them like you would a sump plug.

[ebbett21]

I'M with him.....so when your g/fs, wifes are driving and get a flat you are going to be patantic enough to make her torque the wheel nuts up!!!! Oh wait, you can go to her rescue & do it for her.
Come on people get real here. This is PC over the top!!

My missus like's my nuts tight, more fun she reakons

[hRTHSV]

VE's are definitely 170 NM's, Up to VZ 105 - 125.

People can say you can do it by feel all you like but the reality is that most people especially on the up to VZ's do them up to tight and stretch the threads. I always use a tension wrench on my own cars. It's not like it takes any longer.

[ls1 VN]

My missus like's my nuts tight, more fun she reakons

Tight little peanuts huh, Real girls like something big and hanging to play with. least she's being kind to you.

It's not that hard to use a wheel brace properly!!!!

[MarsVolta]

110-140nm for vz maloo if anyone was interested.

[Mad Dog]

I have a ratcheting torque wrench set for my wheel nuts with a smalll extension so its away from body work. Simple click then onto the next one. Makes it very easy especially with the long leverage. Far better then the factory item. Also peace of mind knowing that its done correctly.

And having seen first hand what some heat does to new wheels and a few laps around a track its surprising how they loosen off. I check mine every 5k with its service.

[IJ.]

I always carry a Tq Wrench for this job, seen way too many tricycle cars over the years from either too loose or too tight lug nuts.

Guys at the tire place look at me like I'm a mental case when I tell them NO RATTLE gun to bolt em on, even got to the point to save bullshit I'd take the Ute down and fit the wheels at home.

Far too easy to TTY when using a wheel brace or gun, then you have the nightmare of being in the middle of no where and not being able to get a nut undone or worse shearing it off...

I also use antiseize.

[Ruger]

Nothing wrong with torquing your wheel nuts in this day and age where everything is getting bigger and lighter. I talk about the discs. The flange thickness of the disc is half of an old car and you will warp the disc prematurely if you dont do up the nuts properly.

170+ is really tight though i thought around the vicinity of 140nm and 130nm for alloy but im sure it would be specific to each car.

Every car that leaves a bmw workshop gets its wheels torqued if they were removed and on those cars the discs are made of a soft material to aid stopping. If they arent torqued they will warp

[Drewie]

The workshop I use for servicing the VX SS always use a tension wrench to tighten the wheels nuts.

[255-LS1]

I also use antiseize.

and there you go - theres another variable that has to be considered as torque for dry threads and torque for specific anti sieze is completely different so may as well leave that torque wrench in the tool box.

cheers

[princess1]

and there you go - theres another variable that has to be considered as torque for dry threads and torque for specific anti sieze is completely different so may as well leave that torque wrench in the tool box.

cheers

Not necessary as listed specs are for all items that would be in good servicable order so in this case the threads will be clean and good condition to get to the correct advertised torque setting.

[cashie]

Not necessary as listed specs are for all items that would be in good servicable order so in this case the threads will be clean and good condition to get to the correct advertised torque setting.

Service manual states not to use anti-sieze (creepy grease) on wheel nuts/studs.
Shouldn't need too either, I don't use it and I torque my wheel nuts to the specified 170Nm.. never had an issue getting them off.
As stated, using anti-sieze can change the torque properties, ie. you will over torque a bolt that has anti-seize on it (due to the lower friction).
Just be careful of the factory locknuts as they age, they have a habit of not agreeing with the 170Nm at times (just replaced mine on Friday after I had a stuggle getting one off due to the locknut socket stressing).

[IJ.]

I allow and adjust my settings for "creepy grease" :D LOL'd Cashie!

[cashie]

I allow and adjust my settings for "creepy grease" :D LOL'd Cashie!

Good job, that's the way to do it :goodjob:

What, have you never heard of creepy grease, you know, when you use it, you end up with it on your nose, your ear, your ball bag etc... :)

[IJ.]

Good job, that's the way to do it :goodjob:

What, have you never heard of creepy grease, you know, when you use it, you end up with it on your nose, your ear, your ball bag etc... :)

Seriously made me LOL here, do we need to know how you're getting it on your ball bag? :rofl: