Greg's Ultimate VZ Crewman SS (to be)

[k1w1noz]

Hey All. This is my first post, be kind.....

This thread is to be a kind of historical record/reference of the growth (rebirth, whatever) of my much loved VZ Crewman SS Thunder 6L 6 speed. I have owned her for a year now - and it's time to unleash the beast within and have some fun with my toy.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-K4dtk95NPGU/TsJSnBkohkI/AAAAAAAACeM/RG-mRxdNayA/s640/29102010222.jpg

For me, a 6L Crewman is the Ultimate vehicle : Family + Work + Fun. My goal is to add Drag + Circuit Racing to that list.

I'm going to give her the usual bolt-on mod's, as well as replace the bits that usually drop off a 150k km vehicle. My budget is limited, so these will be done as needed/broken/affordable. I'll post about each mod for forum user reference.

Along the way I am going to "log" development through drag & circuit racing. I'll post the results after each mod, for those interested.

Tomorrow I'm off to Willowbank for my first ever drag run at their test & tune night. I hope I don't screw up & look like a dick. The times I set tomorrow night will be my baseline for my 5 year old L76/6 speed, standard everything. Then we can see what can be done.....

I have just ordered a cat back system - 4>1 short extractors, 100cpsi Ballistic cats, to 3.5" single system from Greg at Sureflo. He seems to know plenty about Crewman exhausts - so I'm really looking forward to getting the system installed (with the help of a mechanic friend - cost: 1 x patio erection).

I'll take her for a run at Willowbank after the new exhaust, and post the results in a couple of weeks. Next on the list is a Duspeed OTR & tune. I'll hit Willowbank again after those mods.

I'm not sure whether to get a shop tune - or get a remote/cal tune from Oztrack - or buy the efiLive outright from them. Because I want to run circuit as well as drag, i won't be going induction (for a while?), so maybe I won't need to play with the tune that much.......? Any thoughts appreciated.

Once the power is sorted, I want to get the suspension dialled. I'm aiming to run in the first round of the 2012 Queensland Raceway Street Sprints in Jan. So I'll be able to log those times and re-test as I improve the suspension.

The standard brakes on a VZ SS are pretty bloody good. My plan is to upgrade them last..ish - unless I crack a disc or something, running the street sprints.

That's the story so far - and the plan. All comments/suggestions are welcome. This forum has given me a ton of info. Hopefully this thread will help some future Crewman owner.

Here is a pic of my Crewman, covered in crap mid way through my 2010/11 Family Road Trip - Brisbane to Sydney to Melbourne to Brisbane.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-PVG7QnBtOB0/TsJStEVlngI/AAAAAAAACeU/8uYuQIxfKUU/s640/07012011243.jpg

Funny story - the reason the Crewman looks so bad is because we followed my wife's GPS, which took us from Dubbo to Tamworth via gravel roads that included about 6 ford/creek crossings. It turns out that you shouldn't have your GPS set to "most direct route".

[alian]

Keep the info coming, They are a great allround vehicle. The biggest killer is the weight and getting it off the mark. Good luck.
Cheers Ian

[old_mate]

I look forward to following your progress. I myself have a SSZ Crewman which unfortunately is LS1 powered, however I have extractors and exhaust, OTR and MAFless tune. The weight absolutely kills them. I have also had my diff rebuilt, they are a slightly shithouse design.

I am surprised you thought the brakes were up to spec, mine has the C5 front upgrade being a SSZ and I have put on slotted rotors and QFM pads all round. I only would describe the braking as adequate. It's fine on the street but i could see myself with a bloody long pedal very quickly if i took it out to the track. The 6L versions may have actually come out with the twin pot calipers standard. I have driven a stocko V6 crewman with stock brakes and that was terrible!

I am about to install Bilstein shocks, new King front coils and rear leaf springs, a Whiteline 30mm front sway bar and rebush the whole car with superpro bushes. Hopefully that gets the boat to turn a bit better. I have also been toying with putting a cam into the LS1, bolting on a blower or dropping a LS3 into it. Will see what tax time brings :)

[k1w1noz]

OK - step 1 complete. I've just got back from the Willowbank Wednesday night Test & Tune - to find out what my stock Crewman can do.

I have to say how much fun it was to run my first ever 1/4 mile. Everyone at Willowbank was super friendly to a noob like me. The whole set-up is quite casual, but really well run. There was only a 5 min wait to get to staging. I ended up having 7 runs in 90 mins inc burger & ciggie break.

My first run was as bad as I expected (18.44). In my next 6 runs I had another shocker, 1 red light - and 4 runs between 15.40 and 15.58. My reaction times were a consistent .5 sec, so I am going to say that my stock L76 6 speed is a 15.0 sec car (when driven by a drag noob).

FYI, my terminal speeds were all just short of 100MPH. I was crossing the finish line doing 155km in 3rd gear at about 6,000rpm.

Here is a pic from tonight. The one tonner got me good off the line, but I flew past mid track. That one tonner & a VW kombi ute were my only two "wins" of the night :-)

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ITtYX0Vi6Z8/TsOaX-U8DqI/AAAAAAAACew/JZK-nNC5hXw/s640/16112011165.jpg

Now it's time to wait by the mailbox for my 4>1 + 100cpsi cats 3.5" system to arrive from Greg at Sureflo. Then I can head back to Willowbank and see how that mod effects my times.

I'll take a bunch of pics during the new exhaust install and post for fellow crewman owners. Greg said the it's a complete kit and no new sensor wiring is needed, so hopefully it goes smoothly.........

[k1w1noz]

I am about to install Bilstein shocks, new King front coils and rear leaf springs, a Whiteline 30mm front sway bar and rebush the whole car with superpro bushes. Hopefully that gets the boat to turn a bit better. I have also been toying with putting a cam into the LS1, bolting on a blower or dropping a LS3 into it. Will see what tax time brings :)

Hey old_mate - It sounds like you're a few steps ahead of me. A diff rebuild and brake upgrade are on my list, but I'm hoping they do the job a little longer so that I can spend my $$ on suspension next (after OTR & tune).

Can I ask who did your diff - and what sort of dollars were involved? Mine is ok, by making the usual one tonner diff noises.......

I'll be really interested to know what you think of your new Bilstein/King/Whiteline set-up. What should I budget for a config like that? The mention of a whole car rebush makes me super jealous. Still, I gotta say that the 'ol Crewman handles pretty well for a big rig - way better than the Motorama workshop ute I borrowed last week ;-)

[old_mate]

my diff was done under warranty, however I know of a good workshop on the northside who told me exactly what my diff problem was (dealer tried to tell me nothing was wrong originally) when the LSD lost tension.

Diff and Gearbox industries at Wilston. I spoke with Steve a few times, very helpful.

they did quite a few crewman diffs for Holden under warranty.

I think they wanted around $1400 for a rebuild and installation of 3.9 diff gears (may have been 3.7 not sure). I will probably get the ratio change done at some point, make 6th actually useful on the highway, and the gearing can only help shift the weight.

I am expecting the difference with the new suspension to be like night and day. My car has 170ks on it and its starting to feel a bit 'loose'. All up for springs, shocks, bushes, sway bar and links I don't think i'll get much change from 3 grand, I have to do some more shopping around. I know if I go Koni shocks, already they are $600 cheaper.

I should take mine out for a strap at willowbank. Problem is i'd crack the shits at anything slower than 14.5, probably kill the clutch and then i'd have no work car

[OMR346]

and 4 runs between 15.40 and 15.58. My reaction times were a consistent .5 sec, so I am going to say that my stock L76 6 speed is a 15.0 sec car (when driven by a drag noob)Reaction time does not effect your ET. You can sit there for 10 seconds and you will still run a 15.5 ET. The timer doesn't start until you move.

15.5 isnt bad for stock considering how heavy they are and being manual as well. With a bit more practice you could get it down a bit more. But dont expect to much out of a heavy long arse ute.

[alian]

Unfortunaltly I never ran mine STD to get a starting mark.My L76 (Auto) with a 224/224 cam,Diff gears,maffless tune, 4 to 1 pacies and a 2 1/2 non mandrel system went 12.7 @114 on very tired (35000km)street tyres. I rekon a set of 4.11s will help get it happening for you. There was a guy a few years ago that had 1 @ Willowbank was running mid 13s with a hand made extractors and system and tune. I have been searching for more info for you,as he helped me with a couple of things but I cant find it.
Cheers Ian

[blownvk]

Good reading, I myself have a vz thunder crewman, m6 with 224/224 cam, 4.11 diff gears, 1 7/8 pacemaker extractors, textralia clutch, otr, 100cpi cats with twin 3 inch exhaust, and liquid injected gas installed and tuned by APS in frankston Melbourne. This thing uses 10l of gas per 100km!

Ran the other night at Portland four some fun while my drag car was away getting tuned, we drove straight out, spare wheel in the back, kids seats the works and ran a wheel spinning 8.10 @ 90 mph 8th mile. Tires didn't hook up until mid 2nd gear.

Got a 1.80 60ft which I thought was good for a heavy crewman, but i did leave the line @ 7000 rpm.

Not an over powerful car, 320rwkw, the wife's daily driver.

Looking forward to seeing what others can do with the big turds!

[alian]

:goodjob:
Good reading, I myself have a vz thunder crewman, m6 with 224/224 cam, 4.11 diff gears, 1 7/8 pacemaker extractors, textralia clutch, otr, 100cpi cats with twin 3 inch exhaust, and liquid injected gas installed and tuned by APS in frankston Melbourne. This thing uses 10l of gas per 100km!

Ran the other night at Portland four some fun while my drag car was away getting tuned, we drove straight out, spare wheel in the back, kids seats the works and ran a wheel spinning 8.10 @ 90 mph 8th mile. Tires didn't hook up until mid 2nd gear.

Got a 1.80 60ft which I thought was good for a heavy crewman, but i did leave the line @ 7000 rpm.

Not an over powerful car, 320rwkw, the wife's daily driver.

Looking forward to seeing what others can do with the big turds!


Nothing wrong with the 60 footers there. The best I was getting with that cam was just over the 2 sec mark and 270rwkw. :goodjob:
Cheers Ian

[k1w1noz]

Good reading, I myself have a vz thunder crewman, m6 with 224/224 cam, 4.11 diff gears,

Hey blownVK - Since you too have a manual, I am keen to know how a 4.11 diff effects daily driving. I had an LC GTR with a 4.11 (maybe it was 4.01?) back in the day - which was great for blowing away my v8 mates.........until I ran out of legs that is (only 4 speed).

I'm wondering if I'll be up & down the gears too much with a 4.11 and maybe better off with a 3.9? Is it too easy to break traction with that ratio? Bearing in mind that I am trying to make my Crewman a street+drag+circuit all rounder. Shaving .5 off my ET doesn't matter to me, if it means less street ability and/or a nightmare to control on a circuit track.

Any comments from M6 Crewman owners with 4.11 would be welcomed.

[k1w1noz]

Reaction time does not effect your ET. You can sit there for 10 seconds and you will still run a 15.5 ET. The timer doesn't start until you move.

15.5 isnt bad for stock considering how heavy they are and being manual as well. With a bit more practice you could get it down a bit more. But dont expect to much out of a heavy long arse ute.

Well that shows what a drag noob I am. I thought the ET was timed from when the tree goes green. I guess that makes my stock Crewman a 15.5 sec car.

Thanks for the words of encouragement. I'll be out at Willowbank again on 30th for the next test & tune, to (hopefully) test my new exhaust, and to work on my drag skills.

I gotta say that drag starts (with a manual) are a lot harder than it appears. Especially when you're lined up next to a thumping '57 Chevy!

[k1w1noz]

Hey All - Today my stock Crewman is stock no more! Performance mod #1 has been completed.

Exhaust System: Sureflo 4<1 short headers HPC coated, into Ballistic 100cpsi Cats, into single 3.5" pipe (1 muffler + 1 resonator)

I chose Sureflo (Sydney) because they seem to have heaps of experience with the VZ 6.0 & Crewman's in particular. Being in Brisbane (and a mechnoob), I needed a bolt-on that would be easy to install as well as improve engine performance. My complete system arrived this week (only $65 for freight). The headers are a work of art - huge pipes and designed to retain the original o2 sensor locations.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-PHUJybgleY0/Ts9uVzAnmWI/AAAAAAAACgA/kSZbzYOUOJo/s640/25112011182.jpg

Old vs New
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-4DEfgP84xnI/Ts9uSyWhJLI/AAAAAAAACfw/-0b9pBETa7U/s640/25112011180.jpg

I might not be too good on the spanners, but I can built a patio - which is what I did for a mechanic friend, to get my new exhaust system installed. I took the day off work (naturally) for the event, and to assist.

Having the car on a hoist made this job pretty easy. Unbolted from the back, to the headers. Had no problem getting the old extractors off - but to get the new one on DS required removing the engine cover mounts (gone for good) and the dipstick - which seemed a better option than moving the ABS.

A tip from Greg at Sureflo is to reuse the factory manifold gasket because it's better than the after market ones (surprised me too). The HPC coating looks good.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-DqmmzG5wwxk/Ts9uXPPl-oI/AAAAAAAACgM/xF2H_zgxDy8/s640/25112011186.jpg

One of my ignition leads broke when removed, so I moved forward my planned purchase of new leads and plugs, to today (cost $220). With the extractors in place, we assembled the exhaust using zipties to hold everything in place to check it was where it should be - plus, we had to mark the 2nd set of o2 sensor locations (behind cats) for the factory leads.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-nvG8rv24AvE/Ts9ue7FnLOI/AAAAAAAACg4/wwwDU5HucDo/s640/25112011192.jpg

Note that Sureflo supply the pipes for the sensor fitting to installed on-site to suit. We marked the sensor location on the pipes, took them to a local exhaust shop, 1hr & $20 later they had the sensor nut thingy installed. I also invested another $50 in all new hardware and gaskets (the gaskets from Sureflo haven't arrived in the mail, and I am too much of an impatient bastard to wait until Monday).
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fWzkAZOFQ9I/Ts9uc79QVlI/AAAAAAAACgo/A0pr1EXe958/s640/25112011187.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-PUHkSYra45k/Ts9ufzkfwkI/AAAAAAAAChA/PKeQ47mXiO0/s640/25112011193.jpg

The whole system bolted together pretty easily (glad I was working with a pro though). The Crewman sounds great and seems to rev (redline) a little quicker through the short drive home.

The proper test will be next Wednesday at the Willowbank test & tune. It'll be interesting to see how the new system improves my ET and terminal speed (hoping to need 4th gear before 400m mark this time!)

[RB30X]

Looks great mate, do you have any more pics of the 3.5" cat back install?

[k1w1noz]

Looks great mate, do you have any more pics of the 3.5" cat back install?

Here are the other pics I took during the install. I call tell you that everything bolted-up great - once we figured out what goes where. That is where the zip-ties came in handy. My mechanic said it was the easiest bolt-on "kit" he'd installed. PM me if you want to know anything specific mate.

Fiitting new new headers was easy, just required removing plug leads. With everything off, it made sense to replace the plugs at the same time.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-vC5eSOXRtpg/Ts9uSvb8u9I/AAAAAAAACfs/POic4fNyuB8/s640/25112011181.jpg

Everything back on, inc new leads & plugs.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-8dCXHYJTjnA/Ts9ubZ0IsSI/AAAAAAAACgg/AqWmGNDNFKA/s640/25112011190.jpg

Zip-ties holding the 3.5" pipe. The body hanger on this pipe was the only thing that was "out" a little"
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tDvTRiZqWH4/Ts9ueNL3KGI/AAAAAAAACgw/lQkdIAfMnPs/s640/25112011191.jpg

Everything loosely assembled prior to bolting tight. Tail shaft looks closer than it was - though maybe no Dukes of Hazard jumps for me ;-)
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-pqiGpPX7laI/Ts9ugi8udgI/AAAAAAAAChE/hoINcsK_X8U/s640/25112011194.jpg

[k1w1noz]

I had another fun night at the Willowbank test & tune. Quite a few "proper" drag cars out, which slowed things down a little because they run as singles - plus there was an oil spill which took 30 mins to clean-up. I still managed 6 passes in a little over 2 hrs.

Below are my times after upgrading from stock exhaust to Sureflo 4>1 short extractors to Ballistic 100cpsi cats to Sureflo 3.5" single exhaust.

Previous ET's with stock exhaust: Best 15.40 Worst 18.44 (first ever drag run) - av about 15.50

ET's with new exhaust system: Best 14.83 Worst 15.49 - av about 15.00

Conclusion: Exhaust upgrade = .5 second improvement AND sounds sooo much better :)

Note: While driving home from the drags, my powertrain warning light came on and I nearly pissed my pants, so I cruised home as mellow as possible. I was much relieved to find forum posts that say this is common for 6.0's with upgraded exhausts. Apparently the o2 sensors can't compute the new flow. But I'll get the code checked in case it is something else (eg could be oil pressure sensor error).

Next I need to get the crewman tuned. I'm thinking of ordering the Oztrack remote tune - LS1 members pay $700 til Dec 31 ($100 discount). After the tune I'll go back to Willowbank and log another set of times. I really want a Dus OTR at the same time, but with xmas & kids book lists to pay for, I think the OTR will have to wait until the new year. At least that will give me another excuse to go to Willowbank.........

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-s6uaXLAZEww/Tta_ADQQFrI/AAAAAAAAChs/f7OZXDaNoVM/s640/30112011220.jpg

[RB30X]

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-pqiGpPX7laI/Ts9ugi8udgI/AAAAAAAAChE/hoINcsK_X8U/s640/25112011194.jpg

That looks like it doesnt have a middle muffler. Is that a loud system?

[k1w1noz]

That looks like it doesnt have a middle muffler. Is that a loud system?

The system does have muffler plus a resonator cannon thingy. Sureflo can make the system as loud as you want. I asked for slightly louder than a standard clubsport - which it is. Plenty loud enough, but not offensive IMO.

At start-up, the exhaust note is so sick - makes me smile everytime. Down low the exhaust is quite deep. Near 2,000rpm the note becomes quite mellow. I find there is a slight drone at 100kph in 6th gear (1,100rpm?), whereas no drone in 5th gear. 110kph in 6th sounds ok.

If I decide to make the system more quiet, I guess I can just change the back resonator - but I am reluctant to give up the massive performance improvement I have gained. My engine now rev's like it's a dumped exhaust with no restriction - which you also notice when braking, because engine braking is about half of what it was with the standard pipes. Still better than an auto though....

[RB30X]

The middle muffler must be just out of the top of the photo is it? It just looked like there wasn't one there but it must be the camera angle.

[VZ_V8]

It's awesome how you are documenting everything and are able to keep a track of what mods are making what difference! :thumbsup:

Looking really good so far. Wait until you get on the circuit though. Its a completely different ball game.

Having done a bit of track work myself now you will soon find that the brakes you consider good are in fact very poor. My thunder uses the C6 PBR setup which is larger front rotors and calipers with vented discs and I run EBC redstuff pads, DBA4000 series rotors, braided lines, Motul Racing brake fluid and brake ducting and they are gone in a few laps. As for suspension I have also played around with that a bit and can get the ute around the track pretty quickly these days. Check out my "My Ride" thread and you can see what I did and the difference it has made.

Cheers,
Tim

[bennyo]

good thread, will follow with interest

[k1w1noz]

The middle muffler must be just out of the top of the photo is it? It just looked like there wasn't one there but it must be the camera angle.

Here is a pic showing the main muffler. Beyond this muffler, my system bends over the diff and connects to the cannon shown in pics above.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-C_ULxUkIN_I/Ttxwn_TYkkI/AAAAAAAACiQ/Sxwo-MeMBXw/s640/05122011240.jpg

[k1w1noz]

It's awesome how you are documenting everything and are able to keep a track of what mods are making what difference! :thumbsup:

Looking really good so far. Wait until you get on the circuit though. Its a completely different ball game.

Having done a bit of track work myself now you will soon find that the brakes you consider good are in fact very poor. My thunder uses the C6 PBR setup which is larger front rotors and calipers with vented discs and I run EBC redstuff pads, DBA4000 series rotors, braided lines, Motul Racing brake fluid and brake ducting and they are gone in a few laps. As for suspension I have also played around with that a bit and can get the ute around the track pretty quickly these days. Check out my "My Ride" thread and you can see what I did and the difference it has made.

Cheers,
Tim

Hey Tim - Thanks for the words of encouragement. I have checked out your My Ride thread and gained heaps of useful info. I love the in car videos, keep 'em coming.

You're right about my earlier brake statement - which I retract! I have already spoken to my Pedders guys about a set-up like yours: new rotors, race pads, race fluid, & braided lines. They've quoted $1,500 for front & rear, which seems pretty fair - and a lot better than a $4k brake kit, that they 'rekon would be overkill for the 5 lap sprints I want to do.

Am I interested to know how you set-up your brake ducting. It seems like a good low-cost mod, that can only help braking. I couldn't see any pics on your thread - any tips?

[VZ_V8]

Hey Tim - Thanks for the words of encouragement. I have checked out your My Ride thread and gained heaps of useful info. I love the in car videos, keep 'em coming.

You're right about my earlier brake statement - which I retract! I have already spoken to my Pedders guys about a set-up like yours: new rotors, race pads, race fluid, & braided lines. They've quoted $1,500 for front & rear, which seems pretty fair - and a lot better than a $4k brake kit, that they 'rekon would be overkill for the 5 lap sprints I want to do.

Am I interested to know how you set-up your brake ducting. It seems like a good low-cost mod, that can only help braking. I couldn't see any pics on your thread - any tips?

I am putting in an Xtreme clutch bleeder and bleeding my brakes and clutch tomorrow so I will take some pictures of the ducting and chuck them up in my thread.

Cheers,
Tim

[k1w1noz]

The little noise in my diff has become a lovely clunking sounds, that I can hear whenever the diff has no load. My Pedders guys sent me around to a diff specialist who says a rebuild will cost $900 - $2,000, depending on what needs replacing.

I always planned on a diff rebuild, just not so soon dammit. Now I have to decide whether to change to a 4.11 centre (plus find $2k). Bugger.

[VZ_V8]

The little noise in my diff has become a lovely clunking sounds, that I can hear whenever the diff has no load. My Pedders guys sent me around to a diff specialist who says a rebuild will cost $900 - $2,000, depending on what needs replacing.

I always planned on a diff rebuild, just not so soon dammit. Now I have to decide whether to change to a 4.11 centre (plus find $2k). Bugger.

For $2K you should be able to get the different ratio gearset 3.9 or 4.11 whichever you choose as well as a tru-track centre and bearing rebuild kit... Which since you plan on doing circuit work the tru-track will be worth its weight in gold!!

[k1w1noz]

For $2K you should be able to get the different ratio gearset 3.9 or 4.11 whichever you choose as well as a tru-track centre and bearing rebuild kit... Which since you plan on doing circuit work the tru-track will be worth its weight in gold!!

Couldn't agree more. But, it turns out that because the crewman uses a leaf supported diff (different to IRS diff) everything is twice as expensive. The diff guy 'rekons a tru-track for my diff would be sweet but cost about $1,200 - twice the price of a IRS diff tru-track FFS. Plus they're super hard to get hold of. Apparently, Harrop take an IRS tru-track and machine it to work in the crewman LSD, thus the cost.

The diff guy I talked to (came recommended by guy at Pedders with super sick 600kw VE GTS by Hi-Torque) said he won't install 3.9 in my diff because all the after-market ones are noisy. He does recommend going to a 4.11 because it puts 6th gear @ 100kph around 1500-2000rpm, which he 'rekons is the most fuel efficient rev range for a 6.0 M6. Interesting. But I'm really worried that'll make street driving to much like hard work....?

All-in-all I am having to choose what to do, and find the cash, for the diff a lot earlier than I'd planned. There goes my tune :bawl:

[k1w1noz]

FYI to all Crewman & Avalanche owners. Harrop have confirmed that they produce a true track to suit the leaf spring diff - for $1,495. This is a 30 spline unit.

[dogsballs]

was just about to post that, friend has one in his with 3.7 gears. he has a L76 with stock auto, twin 3" inc 1 7/8 headers 263rwkw, run 13.2 . we're about to put a baby cam in it, remove DOD stuff, shave the heads 30thou and run on e85.

most of the aftermarket gears 3.07-4.11 generally have a whine. if you can get hold of OE GM 3.9's $850-900 these don't.

[VZ_V8]

Couldn't agree more. But, it turns out that because the crewman uses a leaf supported diff (different to IRS diff) everything is twice as expensive. The diff guy 'rekons a tru-track for my diff would be sweet but cost about $1,200 - twice the price of a IRS diff tru-track FFS. Plus they're super hard to get hold of. Apparently, Harrop take an IRS tru-track and machine it to work in the crewman LSD, thus the cost.


:doh: :doh: I always forget the crewmans are live axle and not IRS. Carry on... :lol:

[k1w1noz]

I had all new suspension put on the Crewman a week ago. I was hoping to report back about the performance improvement - but since I'm nursing my diff, I haven't had a chance to test the new handling ability.........much.

Suspension Upgrade: Pedders Sports Ryder struts, springs & shocks, lowered heavy duty rear leaf springs, strut tower bar, adjustable front sway bar, complete re-bush

Cost: $4k ($3k parts + $1k labour). I went for the drive-in drive-out option.

Even at low speed I can feel the crewman turn in a bit quicker - everything feels nice and "tight". Can't wait to try it out at QR next year (adjustable struts were $1k+ more = too muchy for me). Mostly though, I'm stoked to be rid of the rattles & clunks that go with 155,000km suspension. She drives like new/better than new.

The crewman is about as low as you can go without fuel tank mods. I can feel that I'm sitting lower on the road, but can still mount gutter driveways without scraping. Plus, the famously ugly "crewman arse in the air" look is gone. :yahoo:

Here are some before & after pics FYI any Crewman owners thinking of a Pedders suspension package.

Before:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-oJlNlb0dMBQ/TtysHxq6FrI/AAAAAAAACi4/oc9Oyklp6BM/s640/CAR%2525201.jpg

After:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-KkhQ4GFcnBY/TtysFaLLmWI/AAAAAAAACiw/JqpSU_Qm9ws/s640/05122011243.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-5sYm-tGlWxo/TuCO-osWgjI/AAAAAAAACjo/dew9PB_arq4/s640/CAR%2525203.jpg

Yes, I use my ute as a ute. There's about 400kg's of sleepers & concrete bags in the rear, which is why I went for the heavy duty leaf springs. She drives so well now that I forgot I had this load on when driving home (prob because I wasn't bouncing all over the friggin place).;)
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-BJLUC1y5T1U/Ttyr-fa2h_I/AAAAAAAACio/3WubETpKHzY/s640/03122011237.jpg

Front strut & 30mm swaybar is bigger than factory (19mm I think). Note the lovely new bushes........ahhhhh.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vOWtjENIRd8/Ttyse2E_dXI/AAAAAAAACjI/QpCdKbDTTaw/s640/30112011208.jpg

Strut tower bar is larger than factory one (not sure of OEM size?) Not too stoked about the red though. I guess I'll have to take it off & paint those plates.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-swAScoCKv5I/TtysKNM0-WI/AAAAAAAACjA/47y54-DHOyw/s640/30112011217.jpg

BTW, I'm going to see the diff guy and book in a standard diff rebuild service - hoping to keep my factory drive gear and keep cost to $1k or less, otherwise kids presents will be seriously downgraded:(. Plan is to do proper diff rebuild when finances allow for true-track and other goodies (maybe diff cover/new gears). That'll be $3k-$4k I'm guessing. But I gotta get a tune & brake upgrade next, so I can hit QR in Jan or Feb.

[Phillshz]

Hey Greg i noticed your engine badges are up high on the guards.
Did you move them? They would be down low just above the sill from factory.
Misplaced or missing badges are generally the tell tale signs of poor panel beating shops in my experiances.

[k1w1noz]

Hey Greg i noticed your engine badges are up high on the guards.
Did you move them? They would be down low just above the sill from factory.
Misplaced or missing badges are generally the tell tale signs of poor panel beating shops in my experiances.

Good spotting Phillshz. The reason that I had all new suspension installed is because my Pedders inspection confirmed that my Crewman had been in a minor bingle (eg mismatched front bushes). It's all good up front now, but I've always struggled to get perfect panel/light/grille/bonnet alignment.

I dunno why the panel shop put the badges in that spot - or why they put the passenger side badge crooked! I haven't made my mind up about the badges - but plan to fix the engine badges. At the moment I'm thinking of de-chroming all badges.

Below is a pic of my grille (done during my last front panel alignment attempt), with painted GMH badge (I was going for metallic gunmetal . What do you 'rekon? What do you guys think about doing all my badges like this? I could de-chrome the guard flute too, HSV style......

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-adQ4yKYD04Y/TuGveQgsHbI/AAAAAAAACkA/s2GPfmWAF4Q/s640/Painted%252520badge.jpg

[old_mate]

3k in parts for Pedders stuff mmmm....

For what it's worth, the bill for the same parts as you except using Bilstein shocks, Whiteline bars, bushes and swaybar links, using King springs (both front coils and lowered leaf springs) and without a strut brace was a tad under $2500.

Did you get a bigger rear swaybar put in, and were your front springs standard height?

[k1w1noz]

3k in parts for Pedders stuff mmmm....

For what it's worth, the bill for the same parts as you except using Bilstein shocks, Whiteline bars, bushes and swaybar links, using King springs (both front coils and lowered leaf springs) and without a strut brace was a tad under $2500.

Did you get a bigger rear swaybar put in, and were your front springs standard height?

Hey old_mate. Sounds like you got a good deal for sure - did that include install, alignments, etc? The $4k I paid did include a complete re-bush, plus I had them flush brakes & replace fluid. I know I could've saved a few bucks on the suspension - but there were a few reasons I went with the Pedders package:

- I liked the guys & the advice they gave me. The owner races at QR & the workshop manager has a 600kw GTS as his daily drive
- I wanted to establish a "relationship" with a local shop, which has worked out eg a few days after the new suspension I went back & they diagnosed my diff noise for no charge & referred my to the local diff expert
- Whole job was done in 1 day & they gave me a loan car
- Pedders have a $2k interest free deal (only needed $2k cash & I wanted it done asap)
- Price includes inspection & adjustment after 1,000km

My new suspension is their lowered "sports" set-up - lowered nearly 2" front + 2" lower rear. The Pedders guys recommendation was no rear sway bar upgrade for my Crewman, as it may induce early oversteer by making the rear too stiff. BTW, they told me that Pedders own Whiteline, so the sway bars are one in the same.

[VZ_V8]

hey mate.

Finally got the pictures up of my brake ducting. Was having trouble getting my phone to work properly with my computer. Anyway, they are in my "My Ride" thread.

cheers,
Tim

[old_mate]

Hey old_mate. Sounds like you got a good deal for sure - did that include install, alignments, etc? The $4k I paid did include a complete re-bush, plus I had them flush brakes & replace fluid. I know I could've saved a few bucks on the suspension - but there were a few reasons I went with the Pedders package:

- I liked the guys & the advice they gave me. The owner races at QR & the workshop manager has a 600kw GTS as his daily drive
- I wanted to establish a "relationship" with a local shop, which has worked out eg a few days after the new suspension I went back & they diagnosed my diff noise for no charge & referred my to the local diff expert
- Whole job was done in 1 day & they gave me a loan car
- Pedders have a $2k interest free deal (only needed $2k cash & I wanted it done asap)
- Price includes inspection & adjustment after 1,000km

My new suspension is their lowered "sports" set-up - lowered nearly 2" front + 2" lower rear. The Pedders guys recommendation was no rear sway bar upgrade for my Crewman, as it may induce early oversteer by making the rear too stiff. BTW, they told me that Pedders own Whiteline, so the sway bars are one in the same.

Hi Greg

No that price is supply only, I will bolt it all in myself. I had thought a rear bar may have made it tend to oversteer, not necessarily a bad thing at times haha.

I was curious to see how much the front came down as my car bottoms out now on my driveway and it's stock ss front and 2in blocks in the rear. Might go FE2 height front and remain 2in down in the rear using kings leaf springs as opposed to blocks.

[Phillshz]

Good spotting Phillshz. The reason that I had all new suspension installed is because my Pedders inspection confirmed that my Crewman had been in a minor bingle (eg mismatched front bushes). It's all good up front now, but I've always struggled to get perfect panel/light/grille/bonnet alignment.

I dunno why the panel shop put the badges in that spot - or why they put the passenger side badge crooked! I haven't made my mind up about the badges - but plan to fix the engine badges. At the moment I'm thinking of de-chroming all badges.

Below is a pic of my grille (done during my last front panel alignment attempt), with painted GMH badge (I was going for metallic gunmetal . What do you 'rekon? What do you guys think about doing all my badges like this? I could de-chrome the guard flute too, HSV style......

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-adQ4yKYD04Y/TuGveQgsHbI/AAAAAAAACkA/s2GPfmWAF4Q/s640/Painted%252520badge.jpg

I kinda figured it had seen some panel shop action but didn`t want to step on your toes. I have seen a lot of vt-vz`s with the engine badges on the guards either crooked,missing or misplaced and on closer inspection everyone of them has seen a panel shop for some work at some point in it`s life. If anyone knew how to badges on it the correct spot it would a panel shop.

Personally i`m not a fan of dechroming the badges etc (or chev badges for that matter) It`s your car mate and if you like it then carry on. Liking the thread so far :wave:

[k1w1noz]

I was curious to see how much the front came down as my car bottoms out now on my driveway and it's stock ss front and 2in blocks in the rear. Might go FE2 height front and remain 2in down in the rear using kings leaf springs as opposed to blocks.

It sounds like you've got a gnarly driveway mate :p

My front bar is now 230mm from the ground - taken from directly under number plate to outermost point of bumper bar. The top of the front wheel arch is 680mm to the ground, and has about 10mm between top of tyre and the outside of the wheel arch. The highest point of the rear is now 730mm to the ground. Maybe compare those numbers to what you've got now.

BTW, I can drive (slowly on an angle) up 45 degree gutters without scraping. For daily driving, I 'rekon it's a good height, looks & drives better than factory. I loaded-up 30 bags of concrete (600kg) on the weekend - no problem, didn't bottom out, handled fine. Anyway, I don't mind loosing a bit of paint from under the bar - as long as the bugger doesn't pop off.

Hope that helps.

[k1w1noz]

I have started a seperate thread for my recently installed a Duspeed OTR & remote tune from Oztrack here http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?158467-VZ-6-0-Duspeed-OTR-amp-remote-tune-results

Best ET now 13.93 @ 104mph, with Oztrack's base tune.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-THsB5JXmKlQ/T7CJKE1ZVrI/AAAAAAAACyc/r11hV8HLyjw/s640/09052012389.jpg

[k1w1noz]

It may be a few months later than I wanted - but this week I'm finally going for some circuit track time. I've entered the next round of the mid-week street sprints at Queensland Raceway, on this Wednesday. Woohoo!

The delay in getting track time was caused by my unexpected sheared wheel nut problem thanks to a certain workshop that failed the tighten the bloody things (thread here (http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?156146-Help-sheared-wheel-studs)) - and also the unexpected need to replace the entire cooling system @ 160,000km (thread here (http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?159407-What-kinda-leak-is-causing-this-pink-spray-on-my-engine)) - plus I needed to save the cunning cash for the upgrades required to take my Crewman to the track, like brake upgrade (thread here (http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?155058-Can-I-do-5-laps-of-QR-with-stock-brakes)).

Once on top of the maintenance stuff, I've used my recently acquired tax refund to upgrade the brakes, add a power steering cooler & a catch can.

From GSL/Brakes Direct here in Brisbane I bought front & rear DBA 4000 series T3 club spec rotors, QFM HPX pads, braided brake lines, & Penrite Sin600 brake fluid for about $1k - which is a great bang for my buck I 'rekon. Old & new rear brake pics below:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ymQFPjRLBow/UFb1kiUWDhI/AAAAAAAAC5s/Z-y--0iqmpM/s640/15092012523.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Od1HkU0vRwc/UFb1srbmgMI/AAAAAAAAC6I/mpVMRcaYGgU/s640/15092012525.jpg

It turns out the DBA website and catalouge are WRONG when it comes to VZ SS Thunder front rotors. Mine are 320mm not 296mm (supposed to be only on SSZ not Thunder WTF!?). I don't think the pad should hang past the rotors........you 'rekon?!

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-f0K-GikQj9w/UFb1qYfhAFI/AAAAAAAAC54/LYvOwb9-cE0/s512/15092012524.jpg

Since I had all 4 corners apart I replaced the pads and lines but bolted it back together with the stock front rotors. GSL are swapping these for new ones (SSZ size) tomorrow, giving me a mad arvo of replacing the rotors and bleeding the brakes before sprints the next day. No sweat .........

Luckily I didn't lag on installing my PWR power steering cooler last weekend. Easy & cheap mod. Living 5 mins from PWR HQ was handy. I've used Royal Purple power steering fluid, mostly because it was the only one on the shelf with the word "performance" on the label. :confused:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-HbbNX0GkoK0/UFb1sJqlqKI/AAAAAAAAC6A/8zdz-QN72a8/s640/16092012526.jpg

Now that my ride has reached acceptable track day status, to minimum ls1.com.au standards :hide:, I've invested the huge sum of $135 + $20 day license to enter this Wednesdays round of the QR street sprint series. It is insane value at that price to get 2 x 5 lap sessions on the Sprint circuit plus 2 x 5 lap sessions on the Clubman circuit = only $7.75 per timed lap (not counting the $15k in mods/repairs it has cost to get here).

I've got my helmet bought for drags, but I only noticed today that the rules & regs say drivers are to be covered with "non-flammable material" - whereas I thought it was like the drags, just long sleeve & long pants. Holy shite! Lucky there is a race gear shop up the road, so I bought an RPM club spec suit - XXL for my big ass $299. Oh well, it's just money right?

Well, it looks like I'm set for a fun first track day - just gotta hope the new rotors show up or I'll be lapping on stock front rotors. I'm borrowing my bro's HD cam, so will post up a vid (as long as I don't drive like a dick).

[k1w1noz]

Here are a couple of helmet cam videos of my first track day - including a wee off involving some off track time, but no damage.

Sorry the cam is a bit off angle, and there is some weird static that only comes in at high speed…..

The clubman circuit video has a couple of smoothish laps. Hitting a bit over 180kph on the straight, 130kph around turn 1 & 2.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6MPvHQKFdmU&feature=youtu.be

I can only post 1 video at a time...... go to next post......

[k1w1noz]

The sprint circuit is where I had a little off track experience after turn 1. Skip to about the 6min mark. Luckily I paid attention in the driver briefing and rode it out to the gravel, rather than try to save it and have it go badly wrong by hitting the gravel sideways.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rk-S6SKSOYo&feature=youtu.be

Even my new brakes were struggling a little - so it's brake ducting for me before the next sprint round. Heaps of fun for sure.

[Phillshz]

Nice Greg! Looks like fun, a bit tail happy at times :burnout:.
You will have to put it on a dyno now so we can see what it`s making.

Cheers Phill

[k1w1noz]

Nice Greg! Looks like fun, a bit tail happy at times :burnout:.
You will have to put it on a dyno now so we can see what it`s making.

Cheers Phill

Hey Phil - Hell yeah it was fun, and a real rush. Actually, my stomach was sick with adrenaline after the first session, partly because I'd been amping to race for such a long time.

For sure the Crewman is a bit of a handful to get round the bendy bits quickly. I succeeded in finding/exceeding my cars corning speed - 4 wheel squealing my way around the track.....:eyes:

I've since realised that I had WAY too much pressure in my tyres - not allowing enough for the increase in PSI when hot. It'd explain why I was fighting so much under steer, and why she let go after turn 1 and sent me off roading. I've now purchased a digital pressure meter and a 12v mini compressor, so I can get my pressure spot on. Getting correct PSI (grip) has got to be the key to good times, I 'rekon.

I'm entered in this weeks sprint round - at Lakeside this time. I'm looking forward to it, but know there isn't as much room for error as QR so will "try" to take it a little easy. Cracking 200kph at the quick left on the straight, before slamming on the anchors back to 2nd has we a little worried. I think I'll upgrade to QFM's race pads this week before the sprints.

[k1w1noz]

Did you know that Lakeside is Australia's fastest race track - with the highest av speed?
Did you know that Lakeside no longer complies with FIA safety rules for run off areas because it was built in 1961 to race FJ's on?
Did you know that Lakeside has killed more drivers than any other track in Australia?
Did you know that an average of 3 cars is wrecked at Lakeside EVERY week?

These "interesting" facts were part of the driver briefing (reality check) at Lakeside yesterday, prior to the round 5 of the mid-week sprint series.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SVVplqKbkIU/UG4wlwEJ4II/AAAAAAAAC7g/cbqTGY1YIng/s640/04102012554.jpg

So, scared shitless of crashing, I headed out for my first laps around Lakeside. It's an awesome track with fun corners, uphill/downhill, banked & off-camber corners - plus a bridge to fly under - just no run off zones, only concrete & tyres. Way more fun that Queensland Raceway, but the fear factor does impact on enjoyment a little (more of a huge relief when finished).

The video below is of the 4th session of 5 timed laps. My best time of 1:11.49 was on my final lap of the day - starts around 6min 45sec. That gave me 2nd in my class for the day (out of 4 lol). I fixed the angle & static noise on my camera, but now the engine sound is a bit faint - like I'm having a Sunday drive.


http://youtu.be/TD-SbdJVGhQ

I defiantly could've gone a bit harder, but I REALLY wanted to take my ride home in one piece (unlike 1 bloke who bounced his ride along the armco after touching the grass on the main straight). I still had a ton of fun man-handling my 2 tonnes of Aussie steel around this iconic race track.

It was a great day and got to drive with & see some super sweet machines. The only bummer was having a couple of the "rent a drive" MX-5's in my group, one of which was piloted by a less than competent race driver. Around 5min 30 sec I was cut-off down the straight, trying to pass the MX-5 at 180kph. I didn't appreciate his lack of mirror usage - otherwise, everyone on the track drove with care & consideration for the other drivers.

[alian]

Well done, Looks like you were having a ball,
Cheers Ian