AP Racing Brake Fitting question

[VZSSTT]

Hey all i am about to fit a 6/4 Front/ Rear AP Racing Combo to my VZ SS on the weekend. Never changed out brakes before just wondering if there is any tips or known problems that i would be likely to run into in fitting these.
Thanks All.

[vy2ttr]

Best way to fit them is to give them to me, and I will fit them to my car, lol.

[feistl]

Its pretty straight forward.

Couple of tips though....

1. Get new bolts (unless it comes with them). Dont reuse the old ones as they are "stretch fit" (Not sure what its called) but yeah, get new ones (About $40 from holden from memory).
2. Get yourself some decent fluid (unless it comes with it). I personally use Motul RBF600 (About $33 a bottle, you'll need 2 bottles).
3. Get a mate to help you bleed them up.
4. again not sure what it comes with, but its worth doing braided lines at the same time. I think i paid $300ish for 6 hoses (each rear brake needs 2 lines) which are ADR approved from race brakes in sydney.
5. Watch the resivour fluid level like a hawk. If it gets too low and sucks in air, you'll need to take it to a pro to get the ABS bleed. Its expensive and a pain.
6. As above, watch the level when your bleeding the brakes. Put the cover back on, as when you push the brake it tends to splash over the place if left open.

What size wheels have you got? Im running VY SS 18s but they have F-All clearance, not all 18" will clear.

Um think thats it. Pretty easy job, just takes a little time. Take lots of pictures during the process.

Cheers

[VZSSTT]

Best way to fit them is to give them to me, and I will fit them to my car, lol.

They wouldn't suit your car now champ there blue lol BTW thats a sweet car in your avatar do you own that ;)

[VZSSTT]

Its pretty straight forward.

Couple of tips though....

1. Get new bolts (unless it comes with them). Dont reuse the old ones as they are "stretch fit" (Not sure what its called) but yeah, get new ones (About $40 from holden from memory).
2. Get yourself some decent fluid (unless it comes with it). I personally use Motul RBF600 (About $33 a bottle, you'll need 2 bottles).
3. Get a mate to help you bleed them up.
4. again not sure what it comes with, but its worth doing braided lines at the same time. I think i paid $300ish for 6 hoses (each rear brake needs 2 lines) which are ADR approved from race brakes in sydney.
5. Watch the resivour fluid level like a hawk. If it gets too low and sucks in air, you'll need to take it to a pro to get the ABS bleed. Its expensive and a pain.
6. As above, watch the level when your bleeding the brakes. Put the cover back on, as when you push the brake it tends to splash over the place if left open.

What size wheels have you got? Im running VY SS 18s but they have F-All clearance, not all 18" will clear.

Um think thats it. Pretty easy job, just takes a little time. Take lots of pictures during the process.

Cheers

Thanks heaps for the tips, Will be taking lots of photos! I have 20" XHP Boost wheels hopepully clearence wont be an issue. Did not no about the air in ABS thanks for the tip there

[Micks]

Its pretty straight forward.

Couple of tips though....

1. Get new bolts (unless it comes with them). Dont reuse the old ones as they are "stretch fit" (Not sure what its called) but yeah, get new ones (About $40 from holden from memory).
2. Get yourself some decent fluid (unless it comes with it). I personally use Motul RBF600 (About $33 a bottle, you'll need 2 bottles).
3. Get a mate to help you bleed them up.
4. again not sure what it comes with, but its worth doing braided lines at the same time. I think i paid $300ish for 6 hoses (each rear brake needs 2 lines) which are ADR approved from race brakes in sydney.
5. Watch the resivour fluid level like a hawk. If it gets too low and sucks in air, you'll need to take it to a pro to get the ABS bleed. Its expensive and a pain.
6. As above, watch the level when your bleeding the brakes. Put the cover back on, as when you push the brake it tends to splash over the place if left open.

What size wheels have you got? Im running VY SS 18s but they have F-All clearance, not all 18" will clear.

Um think thats it. Pretty easy job, just takes a little time. Take lots of pictures during the process.

Cheers

Don't agree with point no 1. those bolts are not holding on a rotor or flywheel spinning @ 10K rpm ffs. Hardened steel bolts even @ $40 not necessary & over kill I'm afraid! Unless the originals have been off many times & the vehicles done a million or so K's just reuse the originals!
The other argument also is some calipers have intermediate brackets with more bolts anyhow!!
Agree with all the other points though.

Cheers
VYT

[macca_779]

Don't agree with point no 1. those bolts are not holding on a rotor or flywheel spinning @ 10K rpm ffs. Hardened steel bolts even @ $40 not necessary & over kill I'm afraid! Unless the originals have been off many times & the vehicles done a million or so K's just reuse the originals!
The other argument also is some calipers have intermediate brackets with more bolts anyhow!!
Agree with all the other points though.

Cheers
VYT

You should always replace your caliper bolts mate. They're the bolts taking all the load pulling the car up.

[ATOMIC 8]

Holden recommends replacement in all their service manuals.

They are a one use only jobbie.

[05 VZ SS]

Are you guys talking about the bolts holidng the caliper to the bracket, or the bracket to the hub?

[VZSSTT]

Are you guys talking about the bolts holidng the caliper to the bracket, or the bracket to the hub?

Caliper to bracket i assume?

[feistl]

Don't agree with point no 1. those bolts are not holding on a rotor or flywheel spinning @ 10K rpm ffs.

I remembered what they are... They are TTY (torque to yeild) bolts. That means when you tighten them up, they "stretch" and "lock" into place. Once they've been used once, they should be replaced.

Look at it this way, the OP has spent ~$5k+ on brakes and from the looks of it $10K+ on mods on a fairly expensive car.... Skimping $40 on bolts could end rather badly and just isnt worth the risk. Hence, id change them.


Are you guys talking about the bolts holidng the caliper to the bracket, or the bracket to the hub?

We are talking about the 2 bolts that hold the caliper onto the car.

[macca_779]

Are you guys talking about the bolts holidng the caliper to the bracket, or the bracket to the hub?

It really doesn't matter the load is distributed to both pairs.


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[zorro]

Hi tensile bolts like that Macca are a good idea to change as bigger brakes = more heat plus the shear forces are going to be greater so the hundreds of heat cycles the std bolts have gone through would be a cheap idea to swap.

Standard pad swap though I wouldn't bother

[macca_779]

Hi tensile bolts like that Macca are a good idea to change as bigger brakes = more heat plus the shear forces are going to be greater so the hundreds of heat cycles the std bolts have gone through would be a cheap idea to swap.

Standard pad swap though I wouldn't bother

I agree Ash. And yeah I have re used bolts in the past on my old car but that was never up against the same sort of load big brake options are put through.

[toey]

ill be very interested to see if the clear the boosts when you bolt them back on. the shape of the spokes may be a problem. hope for your sake they fit cause i i think those rims rock.....but im biased too (had them on my old ss), damn i miss that car :(

[EV1LR8]

LOL ive changed my brakes over from Harrops to stock VT for the strip , about 6 times now and always used the same bolts :S

[VZSSTT]

Hey guys just another quick question. Are the rear calipers directional? I no the fronts are being 6 Pot and the smallest pot is the leading one but with the rears the calipers look identical and the 4 pots are of the same size? Any thoughts ? Also the brake disks have straight vanes not curved so does this mean that they can go on either side? Thanks again for any help

[feistl]

Hey guys just another quick question. Are the rear calipers directional? I no the fronts are being 6 Pot and the smallest pot is the leading one but with the rears the calipers look identical and the 4 pots are of the same size? Any thoughts ? Also the brake disks have straight vanes not curved so does this mean that they can go on either side? Thanks again for any help

Yes, they are directional. Make sure you put the bleed nipples at the top, not the bottom.

I beleive the rotors can go on either side. The slots dont matter, but the internal vanes do.

Cheers

[macca_779]

Yes, they are directional. Make sure you put the bleed nipples at the top, not the bottom.

I beleive the rotors can go on either side. The slots dont matter, but the internal vanes do.

Cheers

What doesn't the ap kit run curved vanes? I thought they did

[VZSSTT]

What doesn't the ap kit run curved vanes? I thought they did

I think they must have the option of both but mine just has straight slots

[macca_779]

I think they must have the option of both but mine just has straight slots

Not the slots mate the vanes ie the center of the rotor