Battery for L98 402 ci Stroker

[HOLDAN]

Current battery is starting to get sluggish so it's time for a new battery. Do I need a special battery now that the engine is stroked?

[Wonky]

I've never had a stroker so don't know whether they typically take more effort to start, but either way given you need a new battery anyway I'd suggest something like an Optima D34 as many of us on here use in our VEs. A lot more expensive (typically $300+) but heaps of reserve.

[zorro]

Shouldn't unless the thing has big comp, but you would change to a different starter if that was the case. I bought a power crank not long ago and it it fine, well priced too

[HOLDAN]

I've never had a stroker so don't know whether they typically take more effort to start, but either way given you need a new battery anyway I'd suggest something like an Optima D34 as many of us on here use in our VEs. A lot more expensive (typically $300+) but heaps of reserve.

God stuff - thanks Gary.

Regards, Dan

[HOLDAN]

Shouldn't unless the thing has big comp, but you would change to a different starter if that was the case. I bought a power crank not long ago and it it fine, well priced too

Thanks Zorro. Wll check them out too

[HOLDAN]

I've never had a stroker so don't know whether they typically take more effort to start, but either way given you need a new battery anyway I'd suggest something like an Optima D34 as many of us on here use in our VEs. A lot more expensive (typically $300+) but heaps of reserve.

Hi Gary.

Is the battery change a DIYable task? I've had a few batteries but had them changed at the workshop. Just looked on line and can get an Optima D34 for $300. Is there a special way of installing them? They look a lot different to the standard battery.

[Wonky]

Hi Dan,

I'd say as long as you are reasonable with tools it is. Due to my disabilities I got an auto elec to change mine and even in the VE ute where the battery is difficult to access behind the passenger seat it took them about 15 minutes because the D34 terminals are the opposite way around to normal, so they had to trim one of the clamps a bit so the positive terminal was in no danger of shorting on it. On the sedan I believe it is much simpler from what I read in another thread on here.

Cheers,
Gary

[HOLDAN]

Hi Gary

A guy from Battery Mart said I'd be better off the the 34R - he said the polarity is correct, more power and cheaper. Why do you go for the 34??

[Wonky]

Hmmm, good question now I look at them :confused:, though I'm sure from other stuff I've read that the Yellow Top range is considered a better range than the Red Top. I just followed the advice of others on here who were using D34s for big stereo installations because at the time I was having issues with my small amp (turned out to be a wiring issue). Someone more familiar with the Optima range can probably give a better explanation.

[VZ_V8]

I think the difference is that the Yellow tops are a deep cycle battery and the Red tops aren't. Therefore the yellows are more suitable if you want to be able to leave your stereo running for a period of time with the car not running etc and not have any negative effects on the battery. Personally I use a D35 yellow top, its a bit smaller than the D34 and has a little bit less CCAs, but it fitted straight into the std tray, the terminals are in the same configuration as the std battery and they are in the corners of the battery so there was no modification of the looms needed.

I think if all you are after is a strong cranking battery and don't need a deep cycle the red would probably be the better way to go.

[Wonky]

Ah, OK, thanks Tim. In that case I'm glad I have the Yellow Top as I'll often listen to CDs for an hour or more without the motor running. Even better now with the HSV gauges which show what my voltage is at all times while the key is not in the off position, unlike the standard SSV gauges which need the motor actually running for them to display. Typically after an hour or so of the CD player running (two small amps, one for splits and one for subwoofer) my voltage only drops to about 12.0v.

[LS Kernal]

Try upgrading your big 3 with some 0 gauge good quality cable.

[white lie]

As said, yellow tops are deep cycle where red tops are more of a cranking battery and blue are marine batteries.
A D34 yellow top is rated at 750CCA/870MCA and 55ah. The equivilent D34 red top is rated at 800CCA/1000MCA and 50ah.

If you want all out cranking grunt then the Red top is the pick of the bunch but as mentioned, upgrade your wiring so you can maximise the full potential of the battery and a standard acid battery will be fine.

[HOLDAN]

Try upgrading your big 3 with some 0 gauge good quality cable.

What do you mean by "big 3"?

[white lie]

The 3 main wires in the charging circuit. Alternator positive to battery, battery negative to chassis and engine to chassis.
This is more of a car audio thing as you want maximum current from your alternator. For cranking, i'd be doing the starter to battery positive.

Use welding wire if you want it reasonably cheap ;)

[HOLDAN]

The 3 main wires in the charging circuit. Alternator positive to battery, battery negative to chassis and engine to chassis.
This is more of a car audio thing as you want maximum current from your alternator. For cranking, i'd be doing the starter to battery positive.

Use welding wire if you want it reasonably cheap ;)

OK cool -thank you.

Regards, Dan

[HSV590]

Guys you're talking about a start battery here, not sure why there's any talk of "deep cycle" batteries. They are not designed to be used as a cranking battery...

[HOLDAN]

Guys you're talking about a start battery here, not sure why there's any talk of "deep cycle" batteries. They are not designed to be used as a cranking battery...

The red top is a cranking battery - yellow top is deep cycle.

[Wonky]

Guys you're talking about a start battery here, not sure why there's any talk of "deep cycle" batteries. They are not designed to be used as a cranking battery...

I'd agree if the Yellow Top had a pathetic CCA rating but it has a better rating than the batteries Holden put in as standard, so it's certainly far from a slouch! Plus with 2 (small) amps it means I can use my CDs for long periods with the motor not running without worrying about not being able to start it again.

[HOLDAN]

I've ordered the 34R from Batteries Direct - should be here next week.

[HOLDAN]

Had the 34R installed yesterday. Now the car is throwing an alternator error including that annoying warning sound. And the battery light is staying on. Drove it back from Toowoomba and after about 20mins, the battery light went out and no more warnings. This morning, I went to work. Started the car - no warning and no light. A few minutes into the trip, warning and light came on. WTF??

[SimonNQ]

You may need to get Holden to reset the BCM I think it is?? the way it was explained to me was that the new battery was replaced, but the car still only knows about the old one, hence the alternator charging circuit is not coming on enough to charge the battery etc...

I have the same 34R in my car and apart from the engineering mode always saying that it was only at 50% charge, it has not missed a beat!. Holden informed me not to trust the engineering mode as it was not designed to handle the optima D34R and was designed for the calcium batter originally supplied etc. It would drop down to 30% if not driven for a day or so, Holden reset and updated the BCM and did some re-programming and it has been fine since. mine is an MY10 SSV.

I would also suggest you put the car on charge for a night, just to make sure that the battery is fully charged and ask Holden to look and see if there is a battery drain occurring etc... I suspect that the battery was low on the shelf, then after driving for a while it charged up a bit, then overnight it drained a little and showed the error etc...

What is your volts display showing? If you have one :) I noticed, that when my battery is fully charged, the volts will drop to around the 13's and when charging it goes up to about 14.8 etc..

Also remember that the VE's alternator does not charge all of the time.... Only when it needs to.

[clubbie]

Check the cable from the alternator to the +ve on the battery (the big cable). These can fail over time due to heat, removing motor can kink them and then they fail etc. Mine looked ok (after motor got pulled) but eventually failed. Only discoved it by trial and error. New battery, new altenator then tried a new cable run which fixed the problem.

So the advice previously of changing the cables (with HD ones) is a cheap prevention and probably cure.

[Wonky]

I have a D34 Yellow Top in mine and it's been fine since it went in almost 2 years ago and AFAIK the BCM has never been reprogrammed.

[lowhsv]

I have a D34 Yellow Top in mine and it's been fine since it went in almost 2 years ago and AFAIK the BCM has never been reprogrammed.

they are the best wonky, im buying 3 soon... 1 for the ssv, 2 for my ute now that im running 2x aircompressors which draw 70amps.

[HOLDAN]

You may need to get Holden to reset the BCM I think it is?? the way it was explained to me was that the new battery was replaced, but the car still only knows about the old one, hence the alternator charging circuit is not coming on enough to charge the battery etc...

I have the same 34R in my car and apart from the engineering mode always saying that it was only at 50% charge, it has not missed a beat!. Holden informed me not to trust the engineering mode as it was not designed to handle the optima D34R and was designed for the calcium batter originally supplied etc. It would drop down to 30% if not driven for a day or so, Holden reset and updated the BCM and did some re-programming and it has been fine since. mine is an MY10 SSV.

I would also suggest you put the car on charge for a night, just to make sure that the battery is fully charged and ask Holden to look and see if there is a battery drain occurring etc... I suspect that the battery was low on the shelf, then after driving for a while it charged up a bit, then overnight it drained a little and showed the error etc...

What is your volts display showing? If you have one :) I noticed, that when my battery is fully charged, the volts will drop to around the 13's and when charging it goes up to about 14.8 etc..

Also remember that the VE's alternator does not charge all of the time.... Only when it needs to.

Thanks for the reply Simon. I have it booked into an autoelec tomorrow morning. Hopefully it will just be the cable.

[SimonNQ]

Mine had a drain issue as well, so that was the main reason for resetting the BCM. Other than a few little drain issues my RedTop has been 3extremely reliable :). I also have a yellow Top and this will go in when I do the next round of stereo enhancements as I am going to replace the main earth wirte at the same time. The yellow has the terminals round positive on the left not the right and even if you turn it backwards the existing earth lead will not reach :).

[HOLDAN]

Just got my car back - no joy. The Auto sparky couldn't find any fault with the alternator. And was adament there was no issue with the postive cable. I asked him to try a standard battery but he was 100% sure the same fault would occur. I sad even though this is the fourth battery I've had?? He said the isse is with the ECU. So now I need to find a table somehwere that tell the alternator the new battery is ok.

[SimonNQ]

Take it into Holden mate, it might cost a few bucks, but they should be able to track it down etc... I had to do a reset on my BCM for a similar reason. Mine was covered unde warranty however, due to the battery drain issue.

[HOLDAN]

Take it into Holden mate, it might cost a few bucks, but they should be able to track it down etc... I had to do a reset on my BCM for a similar reason. Mine was covered unde warranty however, due to the battery drain issue.

Update. Took my car to Holden on Wed. It is still there. After many tests (read farking wasting time and my money), they've decided the f (something) on the alternator that manages the interface with the ECU is faulty. And it is not a replacement part. So I'm up for a new alternator ($800 quoted). Ouch. Nothing like buying a supermarket when I only need a loaf of bread lol.

[Wonky]

FYI - my D34 has been in for close to 30 months and in the last month or so I've been wondering whether I needed the BCM reprogrammed to fully charge it. Earlier on when I got home at night and turned my lights off the battery voltage reading on my scangauge would start at 12.8 or 12.9 volts and drop to 12.6 or 12.7 before the scangauge turned itself off (I love my scangauge :D). However, lately it has dropped 2 or 3 tenths of a volt on both readings (when first turned off and when the scangauge turned off) so I wondered if it wasn't being fully charged. However, I hadn't used the car for a few days and on Tuesday it was only started to move it out of the carport and back in a few hours later, both by my wife, to let the plasterers who were here in and it apparently hesitated slightly then started OK. However, Wednesday arvo I came out and it basically just gave a click and died.

Had to get the RACV out as my daughter had our jumper leads in her car, but in a way it was fortunate because he put his machine on the terminals under the bonnet and said the battery had a dead cell. Contacted Optima in Lilydale who I bought it from - they swapped it for me yesterday no questions asked. :goodjob: