launching an auto

[1000kw]

what is the best method of launching an auto without shattering the internals?

[LYTNING]

If you have a dodgy transmission to start with it won't matter, it will all go wrong in the end. Bottom line is, max performance starts on the street or strip are not good for stock boxes. I don't think the boxes are made for any abuse at all. If your car is stock and unedited(particularly the auto) then you may get years out of it. Put a lot more power through it, turn of all sorts of torque management and increase the line pressures and it will probably not last too long. Depending on the individual car anyway.

[r8ls1]

put it in N rev it to 5000 and drop in into D ( just like a manual only crunchy ) :shiner:

[Doug]

1000kw: what is the best method of launching an auto without shattering the internals?

By not launching it hard...

It basically comes down to luck (if you got a good auto), how hard you drive it, and how much power you are putting through the rear wheels.

My auto is booked in for a rebuild at the moment - I got 100,000km out of it. This was with slowly evolving mods that now push a bit over 200rwkw, with a large number of hard launches and swift (but fairly smooth) driving. (I'm not complaining.) On a hard launch I left foot brake but do not stall the car up. Mashing the accelerator is done quickly, but with the edge taken off and things kept smooth.

[Stormwalker]

Originally posted by r8ls1
put it in N rev it to 5000 and drop in into D ( just like a manual only crunchy ) :shiner:

:rofl: at r8ls1... Although, it might be good to do that occaisonally, just so you know that there is SOME gears left in it... :eyes:

Lindsay

[1000kw]

re: R8ls1 thats what you 'have' to do when the box is shagged and flaring, atm mines fine and from some of the yankie posts on ls1tec they are getting some good miles with fairlt hefty mumbo being pushed through them. Some are shagged in an instant -its about getting the good one to start with!

[SPJ]

Originally posted by r8ls1
put it in N rev it to 5000 and drop in into D ( just like a manual only crunchy ) :shiner:

:rofl: Funniest thing i have heard all day!

[Sid447]

I'm no expert,
on auto-boxes.
But frequent oil & filter changes (20,000kms) and getting an extra cooler fitted is well worth doing as the box can take a fair bit of power through it but it's the oil temps it's operating at while being giving serious work (or abuse), that definately shorten it's life.
I fitted one of those finned-alloy big sumps on mine which holds nearly 2 litres more than the big pan that the GM-ME cars have. So I've got about 14litres in there!
I hope this is going to be enough, but may fit a cooler too.

This info is from the GM website:-

Hydra-Matic 4L60-E/4L65-E Transmission (M30/M32)

Gear Ratios:

First: 3.059
Second: 1.625
Third: 1.000
Fourth: .0696
Reverse: 2.294

7-Position Quadrant:
P, R, N, OD, D, 2, 1
P, R, N, OD, 3, 2, 1
P, R, N, D, 3, 2, 1

Type:
Four speed rear-wheel-drive, electronically controlled, automatic overdrive transmission with a torque converter clutch.

Engine Range:
2.2L - 5.7L (M30)
6.0L (M32)

Maximum Shift Speeds:
1-2 6100 rpm (m30)
2-3 6100 rpm (m30)
3-4 6100 rpm (m30)

1-2 5600 rpm (m32)
2-3 5600 rpm (m32)
3-4 5600 rpm (m32)

Maximum Engine Torque:
360 lb-ft (M30) (As found in Corvette)
380 lb-ft (M32)

Maximum Gearbox Torque:
670 lb-ft (M32)
610 lb-ft (M30)

Converter Size:
245mm, 280mm, 298mm & 300mm (M30)
300mm (M32) (reference)
(Diameter of torque converter turbine)

Fluid Capacity (Approximate):
Dry: 7.9L (8.4 qt) (with 245 mm converter)
Dry: 10.8L (11.4 qt) (with 300 mm converter)

Case Material:
Die Cast Aluminum

Assembly Site:
Toledo, OH
Romulus, MI
Ramos, Mexico

[Oldskoolpushrod]

Chucked a 2500rpm stallie and shift kit in my 4L60E...that got it launching and stepped sideways on 1-2 and 2-3 change :thumbsup: when you booted it. In hindsight, should have gone for a much larger stallie.