Aussie Pete
07-02-2012, 03:19 PM
My Captiva LX Diesel just clicked over 40,000km and dipped out of warranty at pretty much teh same time. I have had the dealer services done throughout, and given known issues like rocker arms etc I have also done interim engine oil changes using a DPF suitable synthetic oil.
Thinking about the age of the car I decided I'd attack some other maintenance to see how the car is going before I paid it out. The idea being it's a pretty good rig and I'd like to keep it.
Automatic Transmission
I decided to change the oil. I got the procedures off the internet and drained the first lot of approx 3.1 litres and drained the oil cooler and lines (located in front of the radiator). The oil was black! The workshop procedures state to flush the fluid if this is the case and so long as there are no issues. I added Nulon Synthetic ATF (meets the Holden spec HN 2414) per the instructions and started the car following the fluid level guide. This led to the fluid mixing again ex-converter and going black again so I did a second flush. This was now acceptable except I overfileld the trans and when trying to drain teh excess I dropped the plug (a third flush by default). I then refilled again and broke the dipstick (given it's in a wonderfully accessible place!^$%#^) Trans fluid is now bright red and it's synthetic so I will now be doing a single 3.1L change when I do engine oil. Based on teh fluid condition in my vehicle at 40,000km I very much recommend owners consider this maintenance. Given my car never did any notable towing if you tow the answer is probably do it sooner. I have noticed there is a rubber cap on the torque convertor bell housing so next time I may just check if there is a drain plug for the convertor saving the flugh although if there was, I would expect to see that in the workshop procedures.
Front Power Transfer Unit
This unit uses 75W90 gear oil and I drained the fluid finding it dark and having noticeable metal inclusions. I filled it with Nulon synthetic and did a second change after another 1000km. This unit is very easy to service and I highly recommend the oil be changed in this unit based on my unit's condition at 40,000km. I have checked the oil again at the 3000km mark and it is still pristine and clean. Synthetic obviously holding up well.
Rear Axle / Differential
Thsi also uses 75W90 gear oil and is simple to service. The oil was very very dark with significant metal. The magnetic drain plug was caked in ferrous metal filings showing this unit was making metal at least early in its life. I cleaned the plug and filled with Nulon synthetic. As per the front PTU I changed it again 1000km later. I have now done a third change at 3000km later and the mag plug and oil are spotless showing the unit is okay. Needless to say if you haven't changed the oil in yours, its a metal fest in there. Do it asap.
Brake Fluid
Despite being done by the dealer I changed the brake fluid using high quality approved fluid. The rear calipers had noticeable air as well as residual moisture in the RH rear caliper. The bleeding is simple but teh master cylinder requires a special procedure if you get air in it so make sure you never let the reservoir run dry. Brake feel was massively better after the fluid change. Given the water in the system, this will be a more regular maintenance item for this car. Interesting that my VE never had air or moisture in the brake fluid.
In all I spent maybe $300 doing the above maintenance in the cost of fluids. I think it is value based on the condition of oils and fluids what I saw. The Captiva factory workshop manuals and bulletins are available for a very small fee at www.repairprocedures.com where I subscribed for a single day and printed out the tasks I had interest in before expiry. Well worth the spend.
I used Nulon oils as these were easy to source in the special specifications required for the diesel model, in particular the ATF and teh DPF spec engine oil. See my other thread regarding engine oil grades and availability for DPF equipped diesels.
Thinking about the age of the car I decided I'd attack some other maintenance to see how the car is going before I paid it out. The idea being it's a pretty good rig and I'd like to keep it.
Automatic Transmission
I decided to change the oil. I got the procedures off the internet and drained the first lot of approx 3.1 litres and drained the oil cooler and lines (located in front of the radiator). The oil was black! The workshop procedures state to flush the fluid if this is the case and so long as there are no issues. I added Nulon Synthetic ATF (meets the Holden spec HN 2414) per the instructions and started the car following the fluid level guide. This led to the fluid mixing again ex-converter and going black again so I did a second flush. This was now acceptable except I overfileld the trans and when trying to drain teh excess I dropped the plug (a third flush by default). I then refilled again and broke the dipstick (given it's in a wonderfully accessible place!^$%#^) Trans fluid is now bright red and it's synthetic so I will now be doing a single 3.1L change when I do engine oil. Based on teh fluid condition in my vehicle at 40,000km I very much recommend owners consider this maintenance. Given my car never did any notable towing if you tow the answer is probably do it sooner. I have noticed there is a rubber cap on the torque convertor bell housing so next time I may just check if there is a drain plug for the convertor saving the flugh although if there was, I would expect to see that in the workshop procedures.
Front Power Transfer Unit
This unit uses 75W90 gear oil and I drained the fluid finding it dark and having noticeable metal inclusions. I filled it with Nulon synthetic and did a second change after another 1000km. This unit is very easy to service and I highly recommend the oil be changed in this unit based on my unit's condition at 40,000km. I have checked the oil again at the 3000km mark and it is still pristine and clean. Synthetic obviously holding up well.
Rear Axle / Differential
Thsi also uses 75W90 gear oil and is simple to service. The oil was very very dark with significant metal. The magnetic drain plug was caked in ferrous metal filings showing this unit was making metal at least early in its life. I cleaned the plug and filled with Nulon synthetic. As per the front PTU I changed it again 1000km later. I have now done a third change at 3000km later and the mag plug and oil are spotless showing the unit is okay. Needless to say if you haven't changed the oil in yours, its a metal fest in there. Do it asap.
Brake Fluid
Despite being done by the dealer I changed the brake fluid using high quality approved fluid. The rear calipers had noticeable air as well as residual moisture in the RH rear caliper. The bleeding is simple but teh master cylinder requires a special procedure if you get air in it so make sure you never let the reservoir run dry. Brake feel was massively better after the fluid change. Given the water in the system, this will be a more regular maintenance item for this car. Interesting that my VE never had air or moisture in the brake fluid.
In all I spent maybe $300 doing the above maintenance in the cost of fluids. I think it is value based on the condition of oils and fluids what I saw. The Captiva factory workshop manuals and bulletins are available for a very small fee at www.repairprocedures.com where I subscribed for a single day and printed out the tasks I had interest in before expiry. Well worth the spend.
I used Nulon oils as these were easy to source in the special specifications required for the diesel model, in particular the ATF and teh DPF spec engine oil. See my other thread regarding engine oil grades and availability for DPF equipped diesels.