140,000km service

[lukemcg]

My ute is coming up on 140000km and due for a service, just wondering what should be done at 140k? Tossing up weather to do it myself or take it to the mechs.

[LS Kernal]

Look in your log book, it will tell you what needs to be done. Also make a list of anything you think that needs special attention.

Dont take it to a mechanic, he will bend you over the reception desk and have his way with you. Take your time and do it over a weekend or 2.

[JET-33]

depending on when they were last done, some things worth checking are brake fluid, power steering fluid, cluth/auto fluid, diff oil could be close to needing a change and also ya radiator if its been close to 5yrs.

might check to have a look at your spark plugs as well

but again, a lot depends on when you last had these things done. if unsure, they are not that expensive to do all yourself at home. thats what im planning on doing soon :)

[lukemcg]

Well I have only had the car for around 4 months, so I will have to check the log book. From what I was told the auto and engine got a service before I bought it, and the previous owner was right onto regular servicing etc. Thanks guys.

[aratic]

140,000km/7 year service

Carry out service to manufacturer specifications.
Replace engine oil and filter.
Check all drive belts, condition and length.
Check cooling system.
Check air cleaner element.
Check exhaust system.
Check steering & suspension components.
Check front and rear brakes for wear.
Lubricate locks, hinges & latches.
Check all seat belt components.
Check park brake operation (adjust if required).
Check lights, wipers, tyre pressure & all fluid levels.
Check battery electrolyte and fluid level.
Carry out road test to manufacturer handbook.

Looks like it just needs oil and filter, based on the history being strictly done by the log book.

But if you dont know when some things have been done it might be worthwhile just to do them.

[lukemcg]

140,000km/7 year service

Carry out service to manufacturer specifications.
Replace engine oil and filter.
Check all drive belts, condition and length.
Check cooling system.
Check air cleaner element.
Check exhaust system.
Check steering & suspension components.
Check front and rear brakes for wear.
Lubricate locks, hinges & latches.
Check all seat belt components.
Check park brake operation (adjust if required).
Check lights, wipers, tyre pressure & all fluid levels.
Check battery electrolyte and fluid level.
Carry out road test to manufacturer handbook.

Looks like it just needs oil and filter, based on the history being strictly done by the log book.

But if you dont know when some things have been done it might be worthwhile just to do them.

Thats what I thought, just oil and filter and air filter recharge. Can anyone recommend an oil to use? 5000kms ago I replaced it with Edge Titanium 10w-60 and I've found the engine a tad noisy, mainly on cold start idle but can still hear valve train noise once its warmed up at idle, not as bad as cold start idle though. I don't remember it being that noisy before I changed to 10w-60. Is there a thicker oil I could use?

edit: its a vu2 ss ls1 btw (2002)

[boggers007]

Wouldn't you want to go thinner to stop the noise, like a 10w-40

[lukemcg]

Wouldn't you want to go thinner to stop the noise, like a 10w-40

I dont know too much bout oil so i assumed thicker stopped noise. Would a 10w40 stop a noisy valve train?

[xforddriver]

I use Nulon 10w/40 but went and bought Castrol edge 10w/60 when on special last week at supercheap on alot of reccomedation from alot of people on here. If i don't like will head back to the nulon but will try there 15w50. So in 10/40 nulon is good but if you have plenty of cash Royal Purple. Best thing about nulon it comes in 6 ltr bottle.

[boggers007]

I dont know too much bout oil so i assumed thicker stopped noise. Would a 10w40 stop a noisy valve train?

It would help, at cold start your oil is super thick thats why your hearing alot of noise. When it warms up the oil starts to thin out which is where it starts to quieten down. Going thinner should help.

[JET-33]

I dont know too much bout oil so i assumed thicker stopped noise. Would a 10w40 stop a noisy valve train?

it certainly could, its thinner.

im tossing up at the moment wether i go for magnatec 10w-40 or edge titanium 5w-40 (full synthetic). both castrol. ive always used magnatec in the monaro but got a clubby about 1 month ago. the magnatec is about half the price and does come in 1L & 5L where as the edge only comes in 5L (not a huge deal as it can be stored until next service) but repco has 20% off at the moment for racv members so im contemplating trying the full synthetic oil

[JET-33]

Best thing about nulon it comes in 6 ltr bottle.

thats is good!

yeh i always hear good things about royal purple and you can get that in 10w40 as well (doesnt go up to 60 as far as i could tell by their website) but yout looking about $85 for 5L

[aratic]

Penrite Hpr 5, full synthetic 5w40 and about 45 bucks for 5l at supercheap. Make sure you get the new full syn stock not the older semi syn stuff.

I'm using it in my 150k ls1, seems good so far

Sent from my HTC Incredible S using Tapatalk

[Mick1]

Best thing about nulon it comes in 6 ltr bottle.

Yep good value! I'm another happy user:D.............32% less friction:jerk:

[lukemcg]

So the general consensus seems to be synthetic 5w-40 or non synthetic 10w-40. Are there any major benefits to using a synthetic oil? Up until this car I've never used it.

[JET-33]

im interested to know what, if any, difference there would be from the 5w to 10w. i assume the 5w would just go a bit thinner and its full synthetic so maybe slighter safer for the engine when performing at high levels...?

[adr8]

From what I understand the first number 5w is the thickness at cold start while the second number 40w is thickness at operating temp so in theory the lower the first number the better for cold starts so 5w is better than 10w

[aratic]

The viscosity of Penrite HPR5 hot and cold is very close to a traditional semi synthetic 10W40. But generally 5w viscosity comparing to 10w is thinner throughout the temp range, albeit not by much.

Synthetic oils are 'better' because they are more stable and dont break down as quickly, so you are able to go longer between service intervals.

When performing at high levels, a slightly thicke/higher viscosity oil is better. Problem is some LS motors dont seem to like them (noise)