LS! stroked. What supercharger?

[HZute-efi-VS5L]

Ok. So many know about my engine issues I had in my GTO..

Good news! No split sleeves! Very lucky!

So Im now looking at getting Dynomotive in VIC to build my engine to a 383 stroker.

So I guess Im after feedback on Dynomotive. Engine comes with full 12 months warrenty on parts and machining.

Engine will be built with the following:
Manley steel 4340 crankshaft
Compstar/callies “H” beam con rods
CP forged pistons (10.5:1 comp)
Fully machined block
Torque plate honed .005”
Balanced and blueprinted
Cnc ported “243” LS2 casting heads
Custom cam shaft to suit heads
Dual comp cams valve spring set
Double row timing chain set
Hi flow oil pump
Hi Performance hydrulic lifters
Chrome moly pushrods
Yella Terra roller rockers
25% underdrive harmonic balancer
Arp balancer bolt
Arp head stud kit

So my Raptor Blower wont be big enough. So what type of supercharger should I go for? I dont want something crazy! or something that puts my engine on edge. I want something with plenty of go but easy to drive like the raptor is. Do I go side mount? Or maybe top mount?\

I can still use my intercooler I gather?

Car is a 6 Speed with genuine Tru trac 3.9 diff. Gearbox and Diff are both brand new.

Cheers!
jason

[HZute-efi-VS5L]

The local guys that will be fitting it and tuning it. recomend the Whipple charger?

[evl.346]

procharger/2300/whipple.
depends if you want low down grunt or something that has a good top end?

[HZute-efi-VS5L]

Honestly I dont want something that is hard to drive. So the missas can drive it if she wanted. So dont want it darty. Hense why I want supercharged not turbo. Smooth overall power I guess.

[smash69]

People will generally recommend what they personally run themselves. I'm just finishing a Harrop HTV2300 build on mine, I like the bottom end kick of top mount PD blowers. Whipple are a good piece of gear too. If I was to go centrifugal (side mount), I'd get a pro charger.
Go on you tube and look up vids from marks workshop, that guy has fitted more superchargers than I've had hot dinners.

Best to run what you builder has experience with. Any of the above will crap all over the raptor.

[evl.346]

was half way through editing my post then time expired :(

but i have the 2300 and i love the instant grunt low down. its very easy to drive (manual) my gf drives it easily and says its actually easier to drive mine over her own car.
They only boost under 3/4-full throttle meaning it drives like a std car unless opened up and very economical off boost.

never had a ride in a procharged or whippled car so cant comment on those

[qwigybo]

honestly i wouldn't let dynomotive touch my car with a 10ft pole.. after ****ing a clutch install, 3 diffs and axles in my mates car i'd suggest you do a bit of a google search on them first

[VY-SV8]

a 383 stroker and a whipple?? you must have incredibly deep pockets if you are considering that. you won't be getting much change out of $25k for that kind of build.

if you are looking for something easy to drive look at a side mount blower or a turbo set-up. A big PD blower on a built engine will deliver you massive gobs of power right off idle but might not be what you are looking for, whereas thats exactly what i would kill to have. It's horses for courses my friend. If you were really happy with the drive style of a centry blower i'd be going down that route again. A PD blower like a whipple will be a completely different animal.

you'll be looking at a good clutch with the kinds of power you will be putting down either way, so there's another $2k. food for thought

[HZute-efi-VS5L]

interesting about dynomotive feedback. Searching produces some brilliant feedback also......

Clutch. Yes already have a near new twin plate button thing. (2k worth)

[HZute-efi-VS5L]

double post.

[VY-SV8]

if it was me going PD blower, i'd be looking at a Eaton TVS series of blowers. With the internal bypass valve it makes them far more economical to run on a street car when you don't need massive levels of boost, a system that cannot be done on a whipple due to their design. Not to mention they are about 8-10% more efficient across the board at anything under about 20psi.

[evl.346]

Agree with the above comment. Magnusson blowers are also cheaper compared to the harrop version and also whipple chargers.

[jezza85]

I went a 2.9 whipple with the plan to throw in a 427ci bottom end in with in the next 12 months, but this combo wont get you much change out of 30k.

[boggers007]

If you want something that your wife can drive id be looking at a procharger or vortech style side mount. 383 will give you tyre frying torque in n/a form sooo would be a handle full with the top mount for your wife. Least with a side mount she should be able to drive it at low revs with bugger all boost which without knowing what your wife is like when it comes to drive should suit and will keep you happy when you eventually mash the pedal and build the revs.

[feistl]

Its probably not worth stroking your motor out if you plan to go forced induction. The better value for money would be to pickup an iron block and transfer your reusable parts over. The problem with a stroked LS1 is you dont have a huge amount of sidewall strength left for high boost applications. Considering the relatively minor price difference id do it properly from the start.

That said, a properly built N/A LS1 stroker will drive really well (although the "numbers" might not look as impressive). The most important thing is to work out EXACTLY what your going to do BEFORE you spend a single dollar on it. Try to build the engine to a set plan, not just upgrading bits as you go along.

Also, whatever your budget is double it to do what your thinking of doing. Costs always come up and theres no point taking shortcuts as it will bite you in the long run.

Whatever you end up doing... post lots of pics.

Cheers

[255-LS1]

I like the procharger system compared to a top mount charger. Better intake temps with more efficient intercooler. They also make more linear power delivery and will keep screaming to red line, will also make more power if u select the right one. Top mount will make lot more torque off idle. If u go 383 torque will be everywhere so procharger might be the go

But if i was you and def want a blower id go 6l crate, valve springs and whatever else to make it reliable and then strap on either top mount or procharger. Both will perform excellent

Fiestl makes some good advice

[HZute-efi-VS5L]

Ah so many options!

Im more wondering now maybe If I do a unbreakable 5.7 and not stroke. And spend the bit extra I save on a charger.

Dynomotive said they can build my engine to a 350rwkw 5.7. Im thinking a side mount charger might be the go. Im going to get as good as what Im after. Id like around the 400rwkw. And hoestly I would be stoked!


AHHHHH to many options!

[HZute-efi-VS5L]

My big thing is I want to keep my original engine. So a cast block isnt the way I will go.

[feistl]

Ah so many options!

Im more wondering now maybe If I do a unbreakable 5.7 and not stroke. And spend the bit extra I save on a charger.

Dynomotive said they can build my engine to a 350rwkw 5.7. Im thinking a side mount charger might be the go. Im going to get as good as what Im after. Id like around the 400rwkw. And hoestly I would be stoked!


AHHHHH to many options!

Have you ever driven a car with 400rwkw? Or even 350rwkw? Hell even 300rwkw? (And i mean genuine rwkw, not the figures a shop provide after you go in asking for a specific rwkw figure). You realise 400rwkw is about 540rwhp, which is going to be slightly more than a V8 supercar puts out. Now a V8 supercar runs a 300mm wide full slick tyre and yet is still a real handful at less than ~150kp/h. Your now talking about 400rwkw in a standard road car on road tyres in all weather conditions... and being driven by your misses :confused:

Im not saying dont build a powerful engine, im just saying dont get caught up so much on power figures and dyno readouts. Dynos are tuning tools... Id be more interested in a reliable engine with good power delivery rather than a pig to drive with a high number.


My big thing is I want to keep my original engine. So a cast block isnt the way I will go.

Fair enough.

Oh and just another thing... Go talk to the guys who have cars actually making a REAL 400rwkw and ask them about the true costs involved. Remember, making power from an engine is "relatively" easy. Making that power reliably is another thing entirely. Finally, remember your going to need to speed a fair bit of coin on the driveline to handle that sort of power.

Final Edit - Sorry if this sounded negative or mean... Im not trying to be a prick or anything. Just ive seen many people be disappointed with final power figures, plus if you walk into a shop specifically requesting a power figure their going to try and build an engine which shows this rather than a good engine that drives well (with a lower peak power figure). And for the record, of ALL the modifications ive done to my VX (Which is a fricken damn long list), upgrading the brakes to AP6 piston was by far the best buy and gives me the biggest smile everytime i drive the car. Being fast in a straight line is great, but being fast round corners is even better.

Cheers

[255-LS1]

Dynomotive said they can build my engine to a 350rwkw 5.7!

Good luckk is all i can say. Yes it can be done but only by the best and only with stupid amounts of r and d and big camshaft that your missus will hate lol

[qwigybo]

Nothing stopping you getting an iron block stamped with your numbers so you still have matching details.
Have you spoken to any other shops? I couldn't recommend Chevs highly enough and he's already done previous work to the car


My big thing is I want to keep my original engine. So a cast block isnt the way I will go.

[HZute-efi-VS5L]

Cheers guys. No comments are taken harsh. Aye Im here to find out info. So all comments are good.

Get what your saying about big hp.

Brakes. Yes next on the list for sure! They where on the list first but this engine issue happened.....

Restamp block? Lol your joking right?

Yes I should talk to chevs. Might give them a call tomorrow...

It was putting out 320rwkw before. When it was on the dyno before it went pop it was doing 280rwkw with a cylinder or two down. Honest I LOVED the power it had. A little more would be nice....

[HZute-efi-VS5L]

stupid double post again...

[VY-SV8]

Restamp block? Lol your joking right? (this should read you're) :P


If you get a crate motor from the USA, or even an iron block from there you will find that they aren't shipped with an engine number on them. So you can happily stamp whatever number you like on there.

[poolkeeper]

Chevs
Crate LS3
Mild Cam
Done

[HZute-efi-VS5L]

Well after all this Im just confused on what I want now! or which way to go....... should just sell the car hahaha!

[Kuzman89]

honestly i wouldn't let dynomotive touch my car with a 10ft pole.. after ****ing a clutch install, 3 diffs and axles in my mates car i'd suggest you do a bit of a google search on them first

I bought piping for a supercharger install 2nd hand that dynomotive had constructed. The joins weren't grinded back on the inside, I actually cut my finger when trying to install it a few months ago. Took me a few hours with a die grinder. Can't believe they let something like that out of their shop.

[LS1TOY]

Check out our Youtube channel for a few Procharger setups, I like th D1sc spun hard with the Helical gears for a bit of stealth. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YSybhyj5oTs&list=UU6GOdBE2UuFP6fV1tbA88kw&index=4&feature=plcp
Plenty of Power waiting to be had, and a very drivable Curve.
Jake,

[johnvzclubby]

Chevs
Crate LS3
Mild Cam
Done

The best suggestion so far. A crate ls3 will be much nicer to drive then a stroked ls1, be better on fuel and will probably make more power.

[LS1TOY]

The best suggestion so far. A crate ls3 will be much nicer to drive then a stroked ls1, be better on fuel and will probably make more power.

A 383 or any stroker for that matter can be made as nice or as piggy to drive by cam and tuner choice.
Id go a tuff 383 with a blower specific camshaft and 14+psi shoved down its throat. Will drive perfectly and rip your face clean of with a tap of the toe.
Jake,

[Brett SS]

The best suggestion so far. A crate ls3 will be much nicer to drive then a stroked ls1, be better on fuel and will probably make more power.

Yes and no, if you are wanting a supercharger one day you will want to wind up the boost past the point that the stock pistons can handle. Trust me I know... lol

I'm at that point now with my LS1 as I'm running 10's with a PWR122 top mount blower running 10-11psi and makes close to 390-400rwkw. For me to wind up the boost safely any more I would need to forge the bottom end but that is a cheaper option for me than forging an LS3 etc as I already have the right cam, pushrods, heads, intake etc to go with the setup.

If I had the money I would forge my LS1 and put a 2300 blower on top of it running about 18psi... :D

[Tonner 73]

What Jake from GM and Brett ss said are the most sensible posts, a pd blown 383 would be ace, pd blower are so docile when you want them to be. Light throttle is off boost so it's just like a normal car, mash the peddle and she goes. Why do you think walkinshaw, Mercedes, corvette, ford, super snakes all run pd blower because of drivability. Your on the right track mate and don't be scared off 400+ rwkw on the street is beautiful as long as you are sensible driving to the conditions and know your car.
A blown 383 you'll find no need to rev the guts out of it so streetable.
Best of luck do your research and do it right

[HZute-efi-VS5L]

Thankyou again for everyones help! All has been very helpful!

[nate698]

Just some thing I noticed . If you went 383 with a pd blower ide be going an overdrive ballancer not an under drive ballancer

[VY-SV8]

why go with a larger balancer? you're only going to increase parasitic loss and destroy your accessories faster when you spin them too hard. Just use a smaller pulley on the S/C?? surely thats a hell of a lot easier.

[Tony Monaro]

HZute-efi-VS5L if you are in SA go see Brad at Enhanced Automotive. He will give good advice with no BS and top quality work.

[LS1TOY]

why go with a larger balancer? you're only going to increase parasitic loss and destroy your accessories faster when you spin them too hard. Just use a smaller pulley on the S/C?? surely thats a hell of a lot easier.

At a point of going smaller on the blower pulley, you lose wrap and gain belt slip. An overdriven balancer will outweight parasitic loss no worries. ( but yes will be harder on the accessories i guess) Total Parasitic loss from accessories is about 15-20rwkw on a LS3 N/A!
Jake,

[nate698]

At a point of going smaller on the blower pulley, you lose wrap and gain belt slip. An overdriven balancer will outweight parasitic loss no worries. ( but yes will be harder on the accessories i guess) Total Parasitic loss from accessories is about 15-20rwkw on a LS3 N/A!
Jake,

Agreed also if you went a 25% under drive you would need to make to the blower pulley smaller again to make same boost increasing chances of belt slip even more

[boggers007]

Or this... :burnout:

http://i1260.photobucket.com/albums/ii561/VadeVelociter/th_ScreenShot2012-05-18at111510PM.png (http://s1260.photobucket.com/albums/ii561/VadeVelociter/?action=view¤t=ScreenShot2012-05-18at111510PM.png)

Just read the specs, If I can see right cam is 215/247. Massive split....interesting on the intake side that it isnt bigger

[macca_779]

Just read the specs, If I can see right cam is 215/247. Massive split....interesting on the intake side that it isnt bigger

Way to much split. Your loosing dynamic comp for zero gain. A 215/225 would out power it everywhere.


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