VT II Clubsport Sway Bar Links

[ClubManic]

I have a busted sway bar link and have been researching what I can get to replace it. I have found very conflicting information and would like someone to explain what is going on.

Various places you can buy these say the VT II uses the ball-joint type and yet, my VT II has the type with bushes on both ends. I assume which type is needed depends on the sway bar on the car since it is where the link connects to the sway bar that is different. Did HSV use a different sway bar which had the older configuration? Or has my car been modified with a different sway bar?

I know what type to get to fix my problem and I am just curious as to why it is different to most of the information out there. The only place I have found people saying the VT II still uses the double bushes type is in forums but all professional sites say it should have the ball-joint type.

Also, is it better to get one with the S bend or stick to the straight version? My research leads me to the S bend type but I would like to hear from anyone with experience with them.

Thank you.

[BLACK 346]

I have a busted sway bar link and have been researching what I can get to replace it. I have found very conflicting information and would like someone to explain what is going on.

Various places you can buy these say the VT II uses the ball-joint type and yet, my VT II has the type with bushes on both ends. I assume which type is needed depends on the sway bar on the car since it is where the link connects to the sway bar that is different. Did HSV use a different sway bar which had the older configuration? Or has my car been modified with a different sway bar?

I know what type to get to fix my problem and I am just curious as to why it is different to most of the information out there. The only place I have found people saying the VT II still uses the double bushes type is in forums but all professional sites say it should have the ball-joint type.

Also, is it better to get one with the S bend or stick to the straight version? My research leads me to the S bend type but I would like to hear from anyone with experience with them.

Thank you.

VT2 definitely DO NOT use the ball joint type. I have replaced mine with some heavy duty ones, they are the S shaped ones you speak of. Not sure if you can retro fit the ball joint type to VT2, someone else may be able to advise on this?

[VZ_V8]

Whiteline lists the double bush type link for your car...

Weren't they changed from the double bush to a lower ball and upper bush in VX2 and then changed to the double ball in VZ??

[ClubManic]

Yeah, I've been looking at the Whiteline ones. They are more expensive than others available but I don't want to get something that may break in the near future.

I've read somewhere that you may need different ones for lowered cars. Mine is slightly lowered and I assume they came somewhat lowered from HSV as well (compared to std commies). Does anyone know if I need to get special ones?

[VZ_V8]

Yeah, I've been looking at the Whiteline ones. They are more expensive than others available but I don't want to get something that may break in the near future.

I've read somewhere that you may need different ones for lowered cars. Mine is slightly lowered and I assume they came somewhat lowered from HSV as well (compared to std commies). Does anyone know if I need to get special ones?

I haven't heard of that and would think no. The whole suspension assembly will move upwards with the lowered strut assembly. If there was a different one I would assume it would be longer to keep the sway bar in the original position however that would cause it to foul on the castor arm. I have the rose jointed adjustable whiteline ones on my vz and they are the same length as the standards.

[ClubManic]

I haven't heard of that and would think no. The whole suspension assembly will move upwards with the lowered strut assembly. If there was a different one I would assume it would be longer to keep the sway bar in the original position however that would cause it to foul on the castor arm. I have the rose jointed adjustable whiteline ones on my vz and they are the same length as the standards.

Thanks, seemed a bit strange to me as well once I looked at the suspension myself but you don't know what you don't know so I wanted to hear from others that did.

[Phillshz]

VT-VX had double bushes, very prone to destroying them and also bending the link itself, lasted from 40k to 80k depending on driver/conditions.

IIRC, bushes were upgraded around the time of VX2 to tougher & graphite impregnated type rubber (tougher and self lubing)

VY changed to ball joint link fitted to lower more stress prone section where sway bar meets link. The top rubbers then begain failing around the 60-80k mark like clock work, top nuts would work loose. These links were still being bent but less often and not as much as VT/VX.

VYII went to a thicker/stronger link and had a locking compound impregnated onto thread. No more bent rods and rubbers lasted longer.

VZ finally went to top and bottom ball joints on the thicker link. No more problems. Only took 6 years & likely a million warranty claims to finally do what techs/mechs had advised all along. :goodjob:

You could swap to a VZ style but you will need a compatible spec (i`d say a VZ HSV will suit a VT2 HSV) VZ style swaybar, VZ links & rubbers and VZ style struts to suit the links.

Cheers Phill

[VNV8]

nolathane do a kit with an 'S' shaped rod which apparently helps with snapping, they also do an 'extreme' kit with a sturdier S shaped rod and obviously nolathane bushes. From memory you can buy the S shaped rods separately then use them with whatever bushes you want. And yes definitely bushes on both ends.

[tuffRX]

Mostly correct Phill, VT's were the last to have bushes on both top and bottom of the sway bar link rod, VX series 1 changed to a ball joint at the bottom but keeping the bushes at the top. To change to factory double ball joints you would need VZ Holden struts (HSV kept the bushes at the top for VZ), sway bar and link rod, not really worth the hassle/expense when Wholesale Suspension do an aftermarket heavy-duty link rod with double ball-joints to suit VX-VY struts for about $90. ClubManic it might be worth getting in touch with them to see if they do a heavy-duty link rod to suit VT's as well.

[jboy21]

I had the thick nolathane extreme links with the double balljoints on my VY. after a year the balljoints shat themselves and started knocking over bumps. So i went to the slightly thinner superpro links with the single balljoint no problems since.

[Phillshz]

I stand corrected :bow:

[motorin on]

I have a VY11 and just changed my front links,mine has bushes top and bottom,I went for a thicker link
There were no ball joints on my original links

[Black VU SS ute]

I have a VX series 1 and have the ball joint type down bottom and the 2 bushes up top.

[VTClubSprtR8]

nolathane do a kit with an 'S' shaped rod which apparently helps with snapping, they also do an 'extreme' kit with a sturdier S shaped rod and obviously nolathane bushes. From memory you can buy the S shaped rods separately then use them with whatever bushes you want. And yes definitely bushes on both ends.

Agreed...:yup:

I got a VT II Clubsport, with 'S' shaped rod and bushes both ends from nolathane. get a set you can't go wrong, been on the car for 6 years now with no signs of tearing the bushes or wearing out of the rod on the link mounts.

VT II Clubsport came out with upper and lower swaybar link bushes no balljoint.

[Phillshz]

Just to clear things up regarding ball joint v bushed links.

As mentioned earlier, Holden evolved the links from VT to VZ on the non HSV cars.
However, HSV cars continued to run the bushed links until VZ ended production, receiving the upgraded (more durable) spec rubber bush sometime around VX1-2

As to why HSV stuck with the bush, well i`m sure there is a good reason.
Cost of production changes for a small volume model (monroe passing on the shock absorber retooling cost to holden)
Large stock pile of components (forced to continue with old stlye to extingush excess stockpile in a low volume model line)
Or it actually is better handling wise (when new) before destroying itself :bravo:

Cheers Phill