just brought 03 vy ss

[BOSSVY]

FINALLY !! i have a ute again !! woot woot

went with a black 2003 vy ss manual 58,000km full service history

has rear sports bar, hardlid, extractors, twin exhaust , ss re-ductions (lol - are these things really that bad ???) cold air intake and usual ss options black leather seats , 6 stacker , he had different holden rims put on it as an option and changed rear lights to those clear ones .

ive gone from a 55kw 2.8d hilux to this thats prob about 270-ish kw and what a dream it is to drive !!!!!!:D

so now to figuring out whats on the list for mods :)

1st ill sus out if he has done the cats or not, if not ill get some 100-200s in , get rid of ss inductions and get a vcm suite alloy otr and maffless tune , ill sell the rims that are on it now and get some ve hsvi supersports or similar rear ladder rack toolbox and done !!!

roughly what could i be looking at kw wise with exhaust ,cats , extractors, otrcai and maffless tune - roughly ??

im going to be going through tyres very quickly in this thing couldnt helkp myself yesterday lol

cheers

[VY Sleeper]

58,000k's, Thats awesome

[BOSSVY]

thanks mate looked long and hard but got there

[Scruba]

Congrats! The VY SS is a great ride and in ute form I'm sure you'll have a blast! Fantastic mileage too!

[vy2lx8]

FINALLY !! i have a ute again !! woot woot

went with a black 2003 vy ss manual 58,000km full service history

has rear sports bar, hardlid, extractors, twin exhaust , ss re-ductions (lol - are these things really that bad ???) cold air intake and usual ss options black leather seats , 6 stacker , he had different holden rims put on it as an option and changed rear lights to those clear ones .

ive gone from a 55kw 2.8d hilux to this thats prob about 270-ish kw and what a dream it is to drive !!!!!!:D

so now to figuring out whats on the list for mods :)

1st ill sus out if he has done the cats or not, if not ill get some 100-200s in , get rid of ss inductions and get a vcm suite alloy otr and maffless tune , ill sell the rims that are on it now and get some ve hsvi supersports or similar rear ladder rack toolbox and done !!!

roughly what could i be looking at kw wise with exhaust ,cats , extractors, otrcai and maffless tune - roughly ??

im going to be going through tyres very quickly in this thing couldnt helkp myself yesterday lol

cheers

Congrats on the new ute mate! Good find with those k's

With those mods i would have a guess at around 230rwkw (at the tyres)
270rwkw is generally cammed territory for an ls1

[BOSSVY]

thanks guys ;)

hopefully getting all the above done and toolboxs asap

how can i tell how much its been lowered ??? scrapped over a few speed humps yesterday and when i put tools in back etc its only gunna get worse so will also be air bagging the rear and lifting it an inch or so ......can u get like coil spacers to increase height ?? or is it new springs etc ???

it is so hard to drive this thing with out putting your foot down you hear the noise of the exhaust then its like my right foot has a mind of its own !!!!!

[BOSSVY]

Congrats on the new ute mate! Good find with those k's

With those mods i would have a guess at around 230rwkw (at the tyres)
270rwkw is generally cammed territory for an ls1

230 kw ??? arnt these 250 standard ??

[macca_779]

230 kw ??? arnt these 250 standard ??

At the tyres mate. 250rwkw standard don't reckon


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[redvxr8clubby]

230 kw ??? arnt these 250 standard ??

A VY series I Clubby was 260 Kw standard, I think VY SS was 235Kw, or possibly 245 kw? I had a VX II Calais which I know was 225 Kw standard, I'm sure SS are a little more due to exhaust.

[redvxr8clubby]

Congrats on the ute, 58,000 km must be a very rare find for a VY. You gotta love that compared to your Hilux.

[Troutman]

Awesome stuff man, I know how hard it is to find an ultra-low mileage example.

[berroca]

these are all engine KW ratings. not rear wheel Kw.

only thing different in the vy etc is the tune to make the extra 10kw at the engine. except the HSV's which have slightly better tune and exhaust

[jimco]

Hi Guys.
VY SS series1 - 235kw (first with full 2 1/4" dual exhaust)
VY SS series 2- 245kw (cats moved closer too headers for quicker heat-up)
Regards.

[vy2lx8]

Hi Guys.
VY SS series1 - 235kw (first with full 2 1/4" dual exhaust)
VY SS series 2- 245kw (cats moved closer too headers for quicker heat-up)
Regards.

Correct at the flywheel not the tyres. I did mention with his mods that he should see about 230kw at the tyres which is more than 245 at the flywheel.

[BOSSVY]

ok learning new things all the time on here !!! didnt know there was a difference between kw and rwkw, but now know you lose a little by the time it takes to get the power down to the wheels , sorry for my ignorance there !! ;)

how can i tell if mines a series 1 or 2 ??? mines a march build 03 if any one can help that would be great !!

also anymore iunfo on how to check ride height ??

is there any thing inhearantly wrong with a series one as compared to a series 2 ??

thx troutman and clubby for the cheers !! was getting quiet impatient but thankfully this one came up hopefully it stays solid .

gonna head up to castle hill performance in sydney and have a chat with david keys (business owner) sounds like a nice trustworthy bloke ,said hes happy to give the car the once over for nothing ,and see what i can then do to it (as ive listed above ) said appx $1300.00 for fit and supply of vcm otrcai maffless custom tune , $660 for 100 cats (installed )so around the 2k mark and she should be purring like a kitten even more.

thx for the cheers and help fellas ;)

[vy2lx8]

If you have chrome badges it's series 2, matte silver badges are series 1. Most series 2 also have a 'series II' badge.
As far as rear ride height, I'd recommend pedders polyair bags in the rear for your application. I had them in the rear of my ute, they were great for keeping the ass end off the ground when towing or carrying tools. I normally left around 15-20 psi in them just to keep it a little higher and stiffer. There is nothing wrong with series 1 over series 2. Only very minor differences in tune and exhaust etc. Both of which you plan to change anyhow.

[RARASV8]

how can i tell if mines a series 1 or 2 ??? mines a march build 03 if any one can help that would be great !!


is there any thing inhearantly wrong with a series one as compared to a series 2 ??

i have a july 1 build 2003 and is series 1
series 2 had a strut brace standard, series1 had full size spare
also the front bar is painted different gloss black on the bottom of bar for 1 and top of lower bar for the other, mines black so i can't help you there.
and a few other bits like others have said 235/245 KW's chrome/saturn badges
but if march 03 build it's a series 1

Garry

[Toddler78]

Easiest way to find out what series it is is if it has std exhaust pop the bonnet and look for the cats. If they are under the floor it's a s1 if they are tucked in the engine bay it's a s2


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[rlg999]

Series 1 has cream roof lining series 2 has black roof lining thats how i normally tell!
chuck up a few pics!

[BOSSVY]

If you have chrome badges it's series 2, matte silver badges are series 1. Most series 2 also have a 'series II' badge.
As far as rear ride height, I'd recommend pedders polyair bags in the rear for your application. I had them in the rear of my ute, they were great for keeping the ass end off the ground when towing or carrying tools. I normally left around 15-20 psi in them just to keep it a little higher and stiffer. There is nothing wrong with series 1 over series 2. Only very minor differences in tune and exhaust etc. Both of which you plan to change anyhow.

thanks for the info, think mines a series 1 , as you said no biggie , exhaust/headers/intake all been changed already. il be checking if cats have been done and getting otrcai and maffless tune ... yeh was just on pedders sit e thats what im after , just enquired about cost . says on redbook the rear of ute can take 665kgs really ?? BUT id say thats changed with 18" rims, low profile tyres and and different springs (think there pedders as there red ??)

id prob have 80kgs in tools incl toolbox and take the odd load maybe i dont need air bags if it can take say half tonne ??

appreciate all the help

[redvxr8clubby]

Series 1 has cream roof lining series 2 has black roof lining thats how i normally tell!
chuck up a few pics!

If I'm looking through ads on carsales etc, with the cloth trim cars you can pick the difference in the seat trim also. If there is pictures of the interior the seat trim can be the obvious difference, there is definitely a lot of series I cars advertised as series II.

[BOSSVY]

had ute checked out today....

has twin exhaust, tri y headers, ss inductions cai.

that said shes gettin cats 100cpii , and otrcai /maffless

plus the ladder racks /toolbox /airbags

.............i feel a cam coming on

[rlg999]

If I'm looking through ads on carsales etc, with the cloth trim cars you can pick the difference in the seat trim also. If there is pictures of the interior the seat trim can be the obvious difference, there is definitely a lot of series I cars advertised as series II.

Rip off cnuts!!

[Tom333]

230 kw ??? arnt these 250 standard ??

Nope, the VT was 225 and the VY was 235

And yep, you have a series 1. Satin badges, no strut brace in the engine bay, different exhaust as the series 2 had to comply with stricter emision codes hence the cats were moved to the headers. SFA diff really with a series 2.

Forget the cam, get one of the new harrop blower kits. awesome mod!

[Nutter]

For your suspension height measure from the centre of the wheel to the guard lip above it and post back here or alternatively look in Tonners recent thread i think its called "super lows too low" the fe2 ute heights are in there I think.

SS reductions from memory was reported to rob some 10kw i think over a standard airbox with 2 hole mod.....yes they are that shit.

Otrcai i actually sold quite a few of these on here back in the day, on my own car it showed 0 difference, no increase in mph no decrease in ET, i ran it for one day at heathote and tested it back to back against the stock airbox then ripped it off and sold it too, in those days people were claiming around .3 second reduction and a couple of mph i never saw that and shared those results to all who bought them...believe it or not i couldnt convince anyone not to buy them and sold all the units i bought.

[macca_779]

Nope, the VT was 225 and the VY was 235

And yep, you have a series 1. Satin badges, no strut brace in the engine bay, different exhaust as the series 2 had to comply with stricter emision codes hence the cats were moved to the headers. SFA diff really with a series 2.

Forget the cam, get one of the new harrop blower kits. awesome mod!

Ahhh Nope.
VU/VX was 225 actually. VT was 220. Unless of course we're talking HSV in which case VT started at 250

[VYSHSV8]

Ahhh Nope.
VU/VX was 225 actually. VT was 220. Unless of course we're talking HSV in which case VT started at 250

And also Vy 2 was 245


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[BOSSVY]

thx fellas 4 all the info ;)

nutter the measurement is 240mm from centre of rim to uppergaurd

additional info (not sure if needed tyres are 235/40/18 and rims are 18inches

appreciate the help ;)

wow ss reductions are sh!thouse big time !! otrcai with maffless worth it ?? or dont worry ??

yeh i read on redbook series 1 vy 235kw series 2 245 i have series 1

[Nutter]

thx fellas 4 all the info ;)

nutter the measurement is 240mm from centre of rim to uppergaurd

additional info (not sure if needed tyres are 235/40/18 and rims are 18inches

appreciate the help ;)

wow ss reductions are sh!thouse big time !! otrcai with maffless worth it ?? or dont worry ??

yeh i read on redbook series 1 vy 235kw series 2 245 i have series 1

Can't be that low that's about 75mm lower than physically possible are you sure you don't mean 340mm?

Mafless tune is the single biggest improvement you can make! But if planning on doing any work on the motor do it first or at the same time as re tuning is expensive!

OTR WASTE OF MONEY as are things like pods and k&n panel filters, you get less filtration and no gain, I was at a dyno day at Chevz years ago and someone's vz had an otr on it, pretty sure from memory with the filter removed it made less than 2 rwkw difference proving gauze type filters are bullshit, I think Wonky and Swingtan were there they might remember better than me.

Also I think I did a test on here years ago with filters and the factory paper filter showed the same results as no filter, the k&n showed a reduction and that was not on a MAF sensored car so it wasn't a case of over oiling etc....... Don't buy in to the bullshit is my suggestion the money filters and otrs and gimmicky shut cost is better spent on mechanical mods that work, leave that crap to newbies and ebay shoppers, for those of you who have these items sorry if I've offended you and you think they work, my track times begged to differ.

What's your goal for the car, what's its primary use? Will it see the track? Do you have an ET you would like to run? And how important are the legalities of the mods do you care if it's non epa compliant?

You will get better answers If you can be specific and be realistic if you rekon it will only see the strip once or twice in its life let us know because some mods are easier to live with than others day to day.

also I'm yet to see someone test a otr Vs airbox back to back at the track on the same day and within similar time and actually get improvements.

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[BOSSVY]

thx nutter !!

haha yeh its 340-345 im a chippy broke the golden rule lastnight measure twice cut once hahahaha

primary use for car is everyday driver and my work ute.

not planning on track.

like it as a bit of a sleeper/sleek lookin tradie ute, toolbox ,ladder racks , air bags for any heavy loads , nice rims , and of course all the bolt on mods eg exhaust extractors cats and maffless tune to be honest my panties get moist every time i drive it coming out of my old 2.8td hilux this thing has literally 200kw more hahahaha ;)

given what youve said and i dont see to many going against it , i might tell fella to leave otrcai off and just get cats 100cpi and a maffless tune im sure that will see me happy

thanks for the help with the heights (well lowered amounts) of springs

[Nutter]

My opinion is hit it with the Mafless tune, better ignition map means more power especially down low and leaner fuel means less fuel..... If you can behave of course, even a mail order tune would suffice and I would suggest you would be happy for a while like this and other than the maf being missing doesn't scream attention to the cops like a cam or supercharger whine and depending on how you can drive its still capable of a high 12 low 13 on 18 rims and street rubber

As for your springs sounds like a 2 inch drop maybe a touch more in the back, nice height if you drive a ute just to drive a ute not so nice if you actually use it for work, talk to a spring supplier of your choice but I would suggest maybe looking at something around an inch lower than stock, in the back use a progressive rate coil and you should get away with it being an inch lower and carrying weight unless your hauling huge amounts.


http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?p=2026216


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[BOSSVY]

yeh car sits/looks very nice just not going to be practical unfortunately, ideally id need mine lifted appx 10-20mm so it would then sit back at about this height once loaded. id avg 100kgs in back but occasionally 4 a short trip round town might be 300kgs or there abouts

i think my choices are

1.)buy new rear springs about 20mm higher so one inch drop instead of 2 , springs are $300.00 supply and fit rear only - pedders

2.)air bag rear and that will hold current height , right ?? and increase my actual pay load?? again pedders at $600 supply and fit

3.) get the 10mm coil spacers for $160.00 supply and fit again pedders

mmmmmmm decisions decisions

opinions fellas ???

so my shopping list is , ladder racks , toolbox , a spring solution , 100cpi cats , maffless tune bye bye $$$$$$ lol

also does it hurt if i run 98 premium 95 premiuim when my utes 91 ron rated ??? can i use E10 or ??? and is an injector cleaner worthwhile every couple of tanks ???

cheers

[Nutter]

Which peddlers is that? Does that include a 4 wheel alignment? I don't know how handy you are with tools but commodore rear springs are easier than leggo! Air bags have advantages and disadvantages but if your carrying 100 to 400 kilos a 1 inch lower than standard spring especially a progressive coil will be fine and cost you about $175 a pair retail and cheaper if you buy online or know someone who has trade, best advice with suspension make sure some one like peddlers or a dedicated alignment place does align it don't be tempted to get a cheap alignment at a Tyre or wheel shop you WILL do it twice.

Miracle cures such as injector cleaner and engine flushes and shit in my opinion are a waste of money, massive waste.... Just smell the stuff its smells like kero but your paying 20-30 a litre. Getting Injectors physically pulled apart and cleaned with new filter screen and orings cost about $25 an injector retail and restores them to as new, brand new brNd name injectors are cheap also should yours ever die, don't buy into miracle in a bottle fixes, but realistically unless it's lean or missing your wasting your money anyway.

95-98 is fine but I wouldn't bother going as far as 98 unless it's tuned, the factory timing on that model is not aggressive enough to benefit across the rev range unless maybe in the instance if you were carrying heavy heavy loads or driving in extreme heat, in these cases even on 91 it would pick up any knock and pull timing out itself..... If it's tuned different story.

E10 I'm not a fan for a couple of reasons but from what I remember the commodore lines and seals should be ok on it..... Maybe some one knows more? and I've been out of the game quite a few years so I'm rusty.

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[usa ute]

You should be fine with the higher octane--it won't hurt, and may give you a little more power. About E10--here in the U.S. we've gone from mostly pure gasoline (petrol) four years ago to E10 almost everywhere. I have a few cars, and EVERYTHING gets 10-20% worse mileage with E10. I can still buy pure gasoline at a station close to my house, and I run it in everything. Ethanol burns hotter (not good), dissolves gums, varnish, and plastic, corrodes aluminum, and does other nasty things. Ethanol also likes to ruin fuel pumps and carburetors. That said, most cars built from about the late 1990s on can cope fairly well with E10, but I say why put something in your car that's not good for it. Here in Florida, E10 is about $3.20 a gallon and pure gasoline is almost $4.00, when you can find it, so I'm in the minority; most folks buy what's cheapest. My old cars (1960s and 1970s) don't run well on E10 at all; the newer ones run fine, but are smoother on pure gasoline.

A local TV station went out about a year ago and tested the pumps labeled E10 around town--none had less than 10% ethanol, but some had as much as 30%, which can damage engines.

When I was in Australia in 2010, I didn't see much E10 anywhere, although I did fill up with in in Canberra, by mistake (4 cents per gallon cheaper and I didn't realize until I was almost full what I was buying). The Toyota Aurion that we hired for our drive from Adelaide to Canberra and then on to Sydney had a readout of km/liter on its dash--with pure gasoline, it was consistently 7.4-7.6 km/liter; a tank of E10 in Canberra dropped it to 7.0.

I use a can of injector cleaner in the tank every time I change the oil--Chevron is the best here from personal experience and talking to many others as well; I don't know if you can get it over there or not. STP is another good one here. Hope this is of help!

[BOSSVY]

Which peddlers is that? Does that include a 4 wheel alignment? I don't know how handy you are with tools but commodore rear springs are easier than leggo! Air bags have advantages and disadvantages but if your carrying 100 to 400 kilos a 1 inch lower than standard spring especially a progressive coil will be fine and cost you about $175 a pair retail and cheaper if you buy online or know someone who has trade, best advice with suspension make sure some one like peddlers or a dedicated alignment place does align it don't be tempted to get a cheap alignment at a Tyre or wheel shop you WILL do it twice.

not to bad with the spanners im a chippy to think, well like to think ive gotta little common sense haha, might see whats involved by DIY then if i think its 2 much go to pedders .

Miracle cures such as injector cleaner and engine flushes and shit in my opinion are a waste of money, massive waste.... Just smell the stuff its smells like kero but your paying 20-30 a litre. Getting Injectors physically pulled apart and cleaned with new filter screen and orings cost about $25 an injector retail and restores them to as new, brand new brNd name injectors are cheap also should yours ever die, don't buy into miracle in a bottle fixes, but realistically unless it's lean or missing your wasting your money anyway. funny you say missing , put 50 clams in yesterday and ute was running v rough on 95 from shell and missing , also noted that idle was going up and down from 500-1000 revs , this is after car wouldnt start so took battery terminals off one was very dirty then started fine but intermittently the stereo controls were doing the opposite they were suppose to eg volume up went don vice versa , did i bugger something up by disconnecting battery ??? might run an injector clean to see if it does anything

95-98 is fine but I wouldn't bother going as far as 98 unless it's tuned, the factory timing on that model is not aggressive enough to benefit across the rev range unless maybe in the instance if you were carrying heavy heavy loads or driving in extreme heat, in these cases even on 91 it would pick up any knock and pull timing out itself..... If it's tuned different story.

E10 I'm not a fan for a couple of reasons but from what I remember the commodore lines and seals should be ok on it..... Maybe some one knows more? and I've been out of the game quite a few years so I'm rusty.

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thx 4 the info usa ute too , cheers

[BOSSVY]

oh and it was con from granville pedders ..

[Nutter]

Without any more info if i have to guess i would say your fuel pump is dying...don't buy another until you've had it diagnosed, filling half a tank of juice then re starting the car wont present as above because they use a dead head non return fuel system meaning the fresh fuel in the tank can take a few kays of driving to ever reach an injector. You keep steering towards injectors what am i missing? Has the previous owner or someone said something?

I dont see the relation to the odd electrics at all they sound more like a bcm or earth issue maybe, diagnosing a faulty car never having even seen it is a bit tricky. Miracle in a bottle wont fix your car no matter what people claim otherwise.

[BOSSVY]

appreciate your help nutter .... any idea what a pumps worth ?? really this early in its life though ,utes only done 59,000kms ??? should i change fuel filter maybe ??

when i get maffless tune done will they pick this wiring issue or computer related issue up in tune ???

wanna get hi flow cats and are x force ones ok ?? how do i know what size i need ?? i see some have a 2.5 inch feed (extractor end is it ?) then opens out to a 2.5 or 3 inch exhaust end ?? so i just measure my extractors then exhaust to get what size i need ?? just trying to save on getting cats at a mechanic and for him to jump on it with a little extra $$$ this way i just pay for labour

[Nutter]

Okay a walbro intank pump retails around $175, the low Kays doesn't mean much my clubby pump was dead at 40,000 Kays, it doesn't take much to kill one and there's all kinds of things that will kill them, fuel filters are cheap and should be changed but won't solve what you describe.

Cats I'm not going to bag a brand but cats are more likely to flow better if you get a tried and tested brand, do a search there's plenty of info on them. Size wise you need to match them to the collector and exhaust don't be tempted to get a bigger cat than the pipe size on the exit side as you will introduce turbulence where the flange steps down in size. In the old days it wasn't uncommon to weld 2.5 or 3 inch flanges to factory cats as the stock I bricks were fine for mild combos, of course these days bolt on cats are relatively cheap so it's probably not done anymore.

A tune won't show the fault as such, you need to get it running right and then tune, with that said anyone who can tune will be able to diagnose before hand.

[BOSSVY]

hey think i found the problem one of the spark plug covers ( the rubber bit that sticks out the end of the spark plug shoot in the metal/aluminum tube) is touching the headers would this be why its running rough coz its mis firing or loosing some of its spark lol dont know if that makes sense ???

cheers

[Nutter]

hey think i found the problem one of the spark plug covers ( the rubber bit that sticks out the end of the spark plug shoot in the metal/aluminum tube) is touching the headers would this be why its running rough coz its mis firing or loosing some of its spark lol dont know if that makes sense ???

cheers

Run it at night with no lights and look for jumping spark.

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[BOSSVY]

Run it at night with no lights and look for jumping spark.

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if there is jumping spark would this be the possible cause for the missing ??

cheers

[Nutter]

Yeah definitely if you can see it arc any where on the rocker cover/head or pipes it will miss, also leads with too high a resistance, faulty coil pack, fouled or cracked plugs, injectors and so much more possibly but it's easy to check as is lead resistance for a start and won't cost you.

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[BOSSVY]

ok so went to bend up the aluminium part to get it off headers and twang snapped lead !!! so down to repco for more leads (top gun) and champion plugs and 2 hours later car is running heaps better !!! no more rough idle or groggy start off and feels alive woooooo-hooooo hahahahahahaha oh and me 250 clams shorter in the wallet !! aaaaaaaaaaand i wont be changing v8 leads/plugs anytime soon again , massive pain in the a$$ !!!!!

prob solved though so now to save 4 cats maffless tune and toolbox woot woot

[Nutter]

I know your not going to want to hear this but top gun leads and champion plugs are not great long term (or at least they weren't when I was working) but at least you've got it sorted!, now the fun begins.

[BOSSVY]

I know your not going to want to hear this but top gun leads and champion plugs are not great long term (or at least they weren't when I was working) but at least you've got it sorted!, now the fun begins.
yes you are right i dont want to hear that lol , how long is long term ?? yeh at least its sorted woot woot time 4 mods ;)

[Nutter]

Champion plugs had a pretty bad rep, In the old days it wasn't uncommon to have them dead out of the box so you've obviously been lucky, top gun leads I've not used in over 10 year's so they've probably improved , the ls1 leads are so short you might get lucky.

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[aratic]

Bugger, you could've bought the genuine red leads and platinum plugs off ebay for about $80 cheaper

[BOSSVY]

Bugger, you could've bought the genuine red leads and platinum plugs off ebay for about $80 cheaper

awesome !!

[Nutter]

What's done is done just drive and enjoy

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