Question about 383 stroker and blower = do you need a stally?

[FrangaFry]

Silly question, but as the title suggests, if you have HTV1900 PD blower (on an LS1) and you stroke to a 383, is a stally required?

Given that the PD supplies buckets of low end torque already, could you assume that by stoking my LS1 to a 383 that a stally would be not required (as you would think that getting out of the hole would be easy given the huge torque this combination would make). The reason I ask, is because I am thinking of stroking my blown Ls1 (built 4l60e), but given the cost associated, I was going to do it in 2 stages.

Stage 1, whack a blower friendly cam and stally in (my understanding is that I will need a high stall for anything other than a baby cam) and then save my pennnies for a little longer to ultimately stroke it (might take me a year to get the coin to stroke, maybe a little longer)

Stage 2, stroke to a forged 383

Given that a cam and stally will cost (ball park) $3500'ish, would I be better off just waiting to stroke it and NOT including a stally, or would a high stall still be required regardless (sorry for the silly question, to date have never been in a stalled car, so not really sure what to expect from one).

Thanks,

[boggers007]

Silly question, but as the title suggests, if you have HTV1900 PD blower (on an LS1) and you stroke to a 383, is a stally required?

Given that the PD supplies buckets of low end torque already, could you assume that by stoking my LS1 to a 383 that a stally would be not required (as you would think that getting out of the hole would be easy given the huge torque this combination would make). The reason I ask, is because I am thinking of stroking my blown Ls1 (built 4l60e), but given the cost associated, I was going to do it in 2 stages.

Stage 1, whack a blower friendly cam and stally in (my understanding is that I will need a high stall for anything other than a baby cam) and then save my pennnies for a little longer to ultimately stroke it (might take me a year to get the coin to stroke, maybe a little longer)

Stage 2, stroke to a forged 383

Given that a cam and stally will cost (ball park) $3500'ish, would I be better off just waiting to stroke it and NOT including a stally, or would a high stall still be required regardless (sorry for the silly question, to date have never been in a stalled car, so not really sure what to expect from one).

Thanks,

Pretty sure it will all come down to cam choice regardless, Going a 383 you usually go bigger on the cam because you have more cubes to hide it but with a blower on you may go small blower friendly cam. Might come down to choice of tuner as some may be able to tune the engine so you don't get any push and require a stally.

Rule of thumb I was told is if you go bigger then a 228 cam on both intake and exhaust then you will have to start looking at a stall.

[IJ.]

I have a few more cubes and a bigger blower and went with a 2700 Circle D Multiplate, drives very nicely, when I specced it the guy changed to a different Stator due to the PD charger and the way it delivers it's power, think of the stall as slipping the clutch a touch to make things happen in a manual car.

[2010blackve]

Wouldn't waste your money on doing the cam if you are going to build in the near future.

I have a similar combo to what you are aiming for. You need to speak to your tuner/engine builder re cam choice and stall.

My combo is a manual, if it was auto i would definitely go a stall. But as i said you are better to have the conversation with your tuner and tell them what your goals are.

[white lie]

Depends largely on the cam you choose to go with but a high quality converter will make the whole package nicer to drive.

If you're serious about racing then it would be a must.