Electric Water Pumps w/ timers

[GR346]

Had a bit of a read about these after talking to a guy at the Craig Davies stand at the summernats.

On paper, they seem like a great addition to any engine but in practise, I dont think I have seen anyone using them.
On a couple of the 40+ days we had here, when I got home I left the bonnet up for a while to get rid of some of the heat before going out again which is where the timer they have would come in handy.

http://www.daviescraig.com.au/Electric_Water_Pumps-list.aspx

Anyone have any experience or advice relating to these??
Just keen for some actual feedback be it good or bad

[feistl]

Ive been very seriously considering fitting one of these....
http://texas-speed.com/p-24-meziere-ls-electric-street-water-pump-55-gpm.aspx

Main reasons are is apparently the stock water pumps dont really flow enough at idle, and at full rpm their not very efficient either (Which is a problem for extended track sessions).
Also having the ability to stop heat soak after the engine has stopped is appealing.

However im not sure about the reliability side....

I like that option over the craig davies one as its more a "plug and play" type change over... With a normal pump im not sure what blanking plate you'd use on the engine or how you'd run the drive belts.

If you do go ahead before me, let me know how you go (ill do the same).

Cheers

[IJ.]

I ran an EWP in series on my last I-6 Turbo car to overcome low flow at idle and cavitation at high RPM of the stock pump, jump plumbed it in the lower hose as both pumps could flow through each other, be a simple job to add in a timer, never seen the need for one though as the engine will thermosyphon once shut down so there is still circulation and once off it's no longer building heat.

Better plan in my opinion would be to tweak the engine off fan settings to allow them to run for xx mins.

The other advantage to the above is if one pump fails you have redundancy.

[white lie]

Good idea in theory, but you also need airflow thru the radiator so you'd want to keep the thermo's running as well. Might want a second battery in that case as it probably won't crank over if they've all been running for 5 minutes!

[Blown 454 AWD]

I ran an EWP in series on my last I-6 Turbo car to overcome low flow at idle and cavitation at high RPM of the stock pump, jump plumbed it in the lower hose as both pumps could flow through each other, be a simple job to add in a timer, never seen the need for one though as the engine will thermosyphon once shut down so there is still circulation and once off it's no longer building heat.

Better plan in my opinion would be to tweak the engine off fan settings to allow them to run for xx mins.

The other advantage to the above is if one pump fails you have redundancy.


Thermosyphon can only happen when 1/3rd of the radiator is above the engine, so very hard for late model cars to Thermosyphon.

Cheers

Steve

[IJ.]

Thermosyphon can only happen when 1/3rd of the radiator is above the engine, so very hard for late model cars to Thermosyphon.

Cheers

Steve
Still happens to a lesser degree with modern engines Steve, nothing like the old cars that didn't run a water pump and relied on the thermosyphon effect for all of their heat transfer.

[GR346]

Some good info guys - Wasnt mentioned that you could just add it to the existing coling system, makes sence

Might have to do some more digging

Cheers for the responces

[IJ.]

Some good info guys - Wasnt mentioned that you could just add it to the existing coling system, makes sence

Might have to do some more digging

Cheers for the responces

Just acts as a booster, if you use a controller you can have it cover any holes of the stock pump and in my case took an overheat prone fussy engine and made it something that would idle in peak hour traffic with the AC on no probs at all but still go to 8000+ without cavitating and steam erroding the head. :)