Which supercharger for the 2002 V2 Monaro [Archive] - Australian LS1 and Holden Forums

CV8MAD

08-03-2013, 12:32 PM

Hi, I have recently bought V2 Monaro. Only mods are extractors and 20" wheels. I have been looking at 2 supercharges for it, and can't easily split them. The Yella Terra YT5700TKIC24 and Harrops HTV1900. I live in Newcastle and have a PIP (Harrop) only 2k's from where I work.

I wish to know if anyone has a V2 and regrets/loves bolting on either of these 2 options. Is there a difference in quality of parts, I know the YT kit comes with 60lb injectors as standard. As far as boost goes, I'm thinking on running is 7Psi and hoping to achieve around the 320+rwkw. The main hurdle not to go towards Harrop is that only the generic charger is suited to my LS1 and aesthetically I think the YT is way better.

I'll also be visiting the brake shop as I'm going to try and get it all engineered and ADR compliant. I have been looking at larger rotors that still go with existing callipers or buy completely new setup. Budget after blower is around $2000-2500 for brake upgrades. Any advise in these areas would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers.

white lie

08-03-2013, 12:40 PM

The YT is the Whipple kit yeah?
There's a fair price difference between the two and if you're only looking for 320rwkw then the 1900 will be up to the task although the whipple is a very nice bit of kit. There is also the Magnuson 1900 to contend with as well.

I run the MP1900, made 450rwhp thru a stalled auto on 6PSI out of the box. Has made 475rwhp on a 40+ degree day with the smaller 9-10PSI pulley, my cam also loses a bit of boost so would likely push 500 with the right cam. It has gone 11.3 in a 2T vehicle though.

With the brakes, Harrop's entry level kit will allow you to run 343/332mm rotors with the factory calipers for $1750. Or their 4 spot calipers with the same rotors is around the 4K mark.
It would be advisable to increase the caliper size on larger rotors to give you more braking force. If you just increase the rotor size, you will get less fade due to them bleeding off the heat easier but this won't decrease your braking distance a great deal.

Cmycv8

08-03-2013, 12:47 PM

I know the Harrop kits are a drive in drive out unit and some YT bees extra bits here and there so prices will almost on par.

Stock motor with just a blower, might want to look at cam as well as 320 might be a stretch. I am getting 290rwkw from a damn good tune and a sizey cam through an M6. Don't get me wrong but if your looking at that push back in your seat go the cam as well.

CV8MAD

08-03-2013, 01:06 PM

Yeah, the Harrops entry kit is what I was looking at. It had been suggested for a minimum to upsize rotor size. With the 20" rims there is room to play in.

Ideally, I would love 470-500rwhp. That was my original goal before looking into the ADR's. When I first started a few months ago reaserching I was looking at the MP1900, it faded out between the other 2 mentioned. I might have to revisit that one.

This car is a M6 unlike my old kingswoods that were all 2spd powerglides. I've noticed that 2nd to 3rd under a bit of power can be tricky at times. I'd like to keep it manual but maybe there is a better style of gearbox out there.

white lie

08-03-2013, 01:24 PM

The YT Whipple is more expensive than the other two options, not the other way around. When I was looking in to doing mine, the Whipple kit was 10-11K, plus install and tune. My MP1900 kit was under 7K in comparison.

IMO it should easily reach 320rwkW thru a manual provided it has the right supporting mods (fuel system, exhaust, valve springs etc). This is certainly not big power for these blowers and will be a lot easier to pass emissions if the cam is kept stock.
If it doesn't make it on 7PSI, change the pulleys to give more boost. Won't be an issue putting 9-10PSI in to an otherwise stock motor and it will definitely give you a push in the seat at just about any rev range.
I did think mine was a bit lack lustre with the 6PSI pulley...

When you say tricky, do you mean tricky finding the gear or controlling the rear end?
The manual with a good clutch will be far more reliable than an auto with this sort of torque going thru it.

The other option for this sort of power would be an LS3 conversion... similar cost and will make the power target with a cam. Less hassle to meet the ADR's.

Cmycv8

08-03-2013, 01:38 PM

Oh and don't forget to upgrade the clutch if it is still the stock unit.

itsme4g63

08-03-2013, 02:02 PM

Hmm I thought there were both 1900 and 2300 version of the harropp?

CV8MAD

08-03-2013, 03:42 PM

I haven’t even considered an L3 conversion; it would open a few more options with what my plans are. Saying that, my main focus is to try my dankest not to muck around too much so that in 20 years or so I still have a stock 2002 Monaro. I found out first hand that stock is more when it comes to collectability.

Clutch.......hmmm, that is another part that has been overlooked in my blind quest to get blown.

I am new to the "modern" cars. Never had airbags, power windows, air conditioning etc. etc. Only found out the other day that it doesn't even have a dizzy, it’s all multipoint ignition stuff. What a learning curve. Hade an f@$d laser for the last 13 odd years after I had to sell my 2 Kingy's when me and my then missus split. So I haven’t been part of the car scene for a while. Hell even this is brand new to me.

I have just assumed that the clutch on a 5.7L would be easily heavy enough for a lazy 400+ HP.

Did you change ratios. I'm thinking that if I want acceleration that would be the path to go, but then a stallie, then............ARghhh.

smash69

08-03-2013, 03:43 PM

If you go Harrop, I would try and spring for the 2300. It will give you room to move later if you want to build an engine. Just pulley it down a little, or perhaps bleed a little boost out the exhaust with a non-ideal cam. Not sure what this would do for your ADR goal though.
What do you mean that only the generic charger is suited to the LS1? Dont they still sell specific kits for LS1?
As for the 2-3 shift, get a ripshifter or a Mal wood shifter, if quick shifting under power at high revs is your issue they do help. Just make sure it is set up correctly, as the ripshifter will contribute to broken slider keys if its not right.

As stated a LS3 or L98 conversion will see your power goals, probably with less hassle, and less chance of breaking your engine.
Ive got a V2, and a HTV2300 on the central coast, if you want to take a look or have a lap in the passenger seat PM me, but I'm running a built engine and other mods, so probably a total waste of time for comparison.

white lie

08-03-2013, 04:25 PM

If you want a stock car in 20 years time, I would pull the engine, wrap it in plastic and put it in storage. In that time frame, the factory engine is going to have a lot of kms on it or have gone boom from being pushed too hard. So the LS3 transplant would be a no brainer in this case. Even things like changing the exhaust, keep the stock system so you can reverse everything later on if need be.

If the bug bites later on, you can still add a blower for a 550-600rwhp daily driver.

As said, you can get the 1900 or 2300 in kits to suit all the available engines.

I've got 3.91's and a 4500 converter. Love it to bits and sedate enough for the missus to drive everyday.... nothing like the high stalls you're probably used to ;)
But yes, the clutch will need replacing.

CV8MAD

08-03-2013, 04:32 PM

Thanks for the offer smash, sounds like a good reason to stretch the legs. Pretty sure Generic is the model of the 1900 that is suited to the LS1. Compared to LS2-3, the old LS1 just isn’t getting the design-R&D it was 10 year ago.
Have emailed Jim at YT last week, and he assures me that 8psi would see my 320-350rwkw, but cause I want to be a certified and shannons insured enthusiast, 7psi on approved ADR exhaust is the way.
An LS3 conversion sounds too good. Would anyone know if I do go through with conversion which ADR laws I would be under?

Just tried to post pics of car in garage. Will get back. Cheers.

CV8MAD

08-03-2013, 04:41 PM

White - was just thinking buy a crate engine, wrap in plastic, then do what needs to be done with current Monaro up to spec of say a HK. I think it is only way. :burnout:

smash69

08-03-2013, 05:08 PM

white lie

08-03-2013, 05:13 PM

As far as I know, the displacement change isn't enough to warrant anything other than an emissions and dB test to become compliant.

timy

08-03-2013, 05:48 PM

I have an ls3 monaro and to get it approved through vic roads I just had to go down and show em the new engine number, they checked it, done..

Wouldn't be ADR approved but only because of the exhaust and other mods. Now throwing a d1sc procharger on it I'm glad I did the engine swap. Just to let u know the ls3 will push out roughly 300rwkw with a tune and exhaust, through a m6. About the same as a cammed ls1 but with more bottom and mid range power. The difference between the ls1 and ls3 is huge! Then if u want more cam it, for roughly 340rwkw then if u want more...... Well I'm sure u get the idea..

As mentioned the plus is that in 20 years you will be able to swap back and then its only the rest of the car that has the kms on it and not the stock engine..

CV8MAD

08-03-2013, 06:02 PM

OK....I owe a big thanks to all. The fact that my head is spinning with stuff I couldn't imagine this morning when I woke up is freaking awsome.

http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/garage_attachment.php?id=102 . Thats a pic about a month ago.

I think after this discussion with you guys today...It's going to be a "before torn" shot.:goodjob:

v8fazz

08-03-2013, 06:14 PM

The Whipple kit for under $10K - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/160984264243?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

Anyone actually have this kit on a standard or cam'd LS1?

Sincemost people recommend the Mag or Harrop 1900 for a standard stroke LS1 and the Whipple is a 2400 I was wondering what sort of results people were getting with the larger Whipple.

Always seem to be thinking about FI these days as well.. Still trying to make a decision between turbo and PD blower and as much as people recommend the 1900, the Whipple kit certainly "looks" sweet so definately interested in hearing from people who have it installed :)

CV8MAD

08-03-2013, 06:39 PM

That v8fazz....is what’s on my mind except the turbo part. Have talked as stated earlier to YT, still waiting for some response there. PIP around Aus. has suggested maybe a quality of parts issue. E.g. some may contain plastic compared to fab. The truth of it all I'm happy to spend a few $$$'s. It is a long term investment. In return I want guaranteed descriptions. I do favour YT in my mind for choice, and I truly wish to use their product. Massive issues if you want information. I have asked YT for Newcastle installers...no response. Hard on internet searches.

Harrop...these guys are 2k's from my work they do brakes, etc. Every time I pick up a phone they are there....thanks to their HTTP

This is why I've come here… like you I want feedback from people who have gone thru this.

v8fazz

08-03-2013, 07:25 PM

Ive always liked the idea of a PD blower but also you see some great results from turbo(s) as well, although I think I would always lean towards a blower when the time comes!

Both have their pros and cons so its a matter of weighing whats right for me and what I want from the car. Same again if choosing between single / twin turbo(s), or 1900 / 2300 / or Whipple 2400 PD blower. And I also have to take into account being in Nth Qld (hot!!) I will be seeking professional advice from my friends at HDTCQ for the install when I go through with it but what ever I choose its important for me to have room for more later down the track. My plan would be to enjoy the LS1 until it dies (without going out of my way to kill it..) and then rebuild with a strong bottom end that can handle extra boost, with the possibility of a 383 crank thrown in for good measure! But then you also often see 408 short motors from the likes of c.o.m.e racing on special so theres another option when the LS1 gives up, but needing even more room for improvement for the chosen blower or turbo(s)

In the end it could just come down to whats on sale or available at a good price at the time. Can anyone say "end of financial year special?" Hint hint Harrop and YT!! :P

CV8MAD

08-03-2013, 08:51 PM

So.......No offence to turbo guys, I like blowers no offence if you are superior or not. At the end of the day this is MY STRING. I'm not discussing 1 but 2 different superchargers. I'm sure there are threads concerning "turbo". HOWEVER this, I'm afraid this is not it.

v8fazz

09-03-2013, 06:22 AM

Gee CV8MAD, I didnt realise I actually told you to forget the blower and get a turbo. Im definitely not "a turbo guy" and if my eyes dont deceive me, I actually said that I would "lean towards a blower when the time comes"

I was just making the point that no matter what road someone goes down, or what form of FI they choose, there is a hell of a lot to take in to consideration, especially if you want to allow room for more power later down the track.

But seriously - So sorry to trash "your string" with that potty mouth "T" word but dont worry, it wont happen again as I will keep my thoughts to myself from now on so I dont provoke anymore stupid PM's from you, which I deleted by the way..

Good luck mate, and welcome to the forum.

CV8MAD

09-03-2013, 07:55 AM

Sorry v8fazz to go so stupid. Must take note not to drink and post, very embarrising to read next day. :doh:

v8fazz

09-03-2013, 09:09 AM

Appology accepted mate, drinking and posting can have its dangers!

The Harrop and YT PD blowers are high on my list of possibilities and theres plenty of info on here about the Harrops but not a lot of info from people who have first hand experience with the YT, especially on an LS1 so Im keen to hear peoples results as well.

Cheers.

v8fazz

10-03-2013, 07:22 AM

So to keep this thread moving along as Im also interested in hearing from anyone who has gone down this path, has anyone here fitted the YT kit to a standard stroke LS1, either stock standard or with cam?

Or is the general opinion along the lines of - even though a kit is offered to suit the LS1, its not an ideal situation as the blower is to large? What would the max engine size / kw rating be for the Mag or Harrop 1900 blowers?

Cheers.

Evman

10-03-2013, 10:58 AM

With intentions to return to stock one day I'd definitely be doing an engine transplant. Going a blower risks blowing up your motor. Worst case scenario is you'll punch a rod and your block will be destroyed, and there goes any chance of matching numbers. 400rwhp is easy from a cammed L98 these days. I ended up doing a cammed L98 transplant, then supercharged that :lol:

v8fazz

10-03-2013, 07:28 PM

I think Evman and white lie have made good points about an engine swap or transplant in your case CV8MAD. Even finding another LS1 to slot straight in could be an option and you could then bolt on the blower without fear of killing your original motor.

For most people (myself included) Id imagine engine damage from pushing it to hard would be the perfect excuse to rebuild it stronger so it can handle even more, but if you think you will want to return it to standard one day its something you should consider.

I too love the look and 'cool' factor of the Whipples but I just know that Jez will tell me that the 2400 or the Harrop 2300 is to big for an LS1 and to go with the Harrop1900!

Evman

10-03-2013, 08:06 PM

If you go a 1900 you'll need to change the drive pulley to get anything above 6psi. I don't know what a 2300 with a stock pulley would push on an LS1, but it wouldn't need to be overdriven to achieve boost levels above 6psi. Whether or not running a higher boost pulley on the 1900 is detrimental at all I'm not sure, it all depends on the efficiency range of the blower. It could well be that an overdriven 1900 becomes less efficient, where the 2300 would make similar numbers but stick to an RPM that it's within the efficiency curve. That's a question for someone like Ken who has been heavily involved with the development of a lot of blowers.

Regardless, I'm running a 1900 with a smaller drive pulley to make just over 10 psi at max RPM. For reference as well, my blower pushes over 8psi from 2700rpm all the way up.

white lie

10-03-2013, 08:41 PM

v8fazz

11-03-2013, 05:30 AM

IJ.

11-03-2013, 06:32 AM

My understanding is that the bigger blower will have the capacity to move more air but this doesn't necessarily mean more boost in the cylinder.

I think the boost levels with the standard pulleys will still be around the same, whether it be a 1900 or 2300. I'm sure there's a reasoning for supplying them with a 6PSI pulley but everyone I know of changes overdrives them (front or rear pulley) to provide more boost. They aren't very breathtaking with the 6PSI pulley, i'll tell you that much. I was disappointed in mine after a day!

"Boost" is just resistance to flow, at the same drive ratio the 2300 will make more boost as it displaces more volume per revolution as you're tying to push this volume into a set displacement engine, if the engine had a tight LSA cam it would push more Air through the engine and out of the exhaust so it might not be the expected rise in boost pressure.

2300 can be turned slower to make the same boost as the 1900 the benefit will be lower charge temps, the argument used to be doing this puits the blower under it's peak efficency range but I really don't see that as it's still going to require a 2.47:1 drive to make 1bar of boost so at highway cruise the blower will be turning at 5100rpm and at 6000 crank it's doing 14820rpm, not exactly "slow".

jimco

11-03-2013, 07:03 AM

Hi Guys.
I put a Htv1900 with standard pulley on a totally stock Ls1 except exhaust for 305rwkw at 9psi flat across the rev range to 7000rpm.Changed cam,springs,fuel system,re-tuned for 355rwkw and 840rwnm and 8psi flat.Tuner said smaller pulley would give more boost but much more heat related issues,just not worth it.
Regards.

Evman

11-03-2013, 09:29 AM

What engine is your 1900 on Evman?

It's an L98

white lie

11-03-2013, 11:16 AM

What engine is your 1900 on Evman?

White lie - is yours the 1900 or 2300 and on what engine? But yeah, 6 psi wouldnt cut it as far as Im concerned!

The op said he was only chasing about 320 rwkw so maybe the 6 psi pulley is all he would need?

If I go down this road I'd be looking for 375 rwkw give or take with cam and fuel system so Im guessing I would need 8 - 10 psi. Is there any warantee issues with Harrop from changing pulley and running more boost? .

Mine is on a C4B. Non boost orientated grind but all the supporting mods.

"Boost" is just resistance to flow, at the same drive ratio the 2300 will make more boost as it displaces more volume per revolution as you're tying to push this volume into a set displacement engine, if the engine had a tight LSA cam it would push more Air through the engine and out of the exhaust so it might not be the expected rise in boost pressure.

2300 can be turned slower to make the same boost as the 1900 the benefit will be lower charge temps, the argument used to be doing this puits the blower under it's peak efficency range but I really don't see that as it's still going to require a 2.47:1 drive to make 1bar of boost so at highway cruise the blower will be turning at 5100rpm and at 6000 crank it's doing 14820rpm, not exactly "slow".

I thought about it like that at first, but it seems everyone that puts either blower on, ends up with a pretty similar boost figure. So it threw me a bit!

Some say the 2300 is too big for a 5.7L but there's enough with good results and others say the 1900 is too small for anything bigger than 6L's but they work fine on cammed LS3's so there can't be too much in it from my point of view. Wouldn't have a clue on intake temps with the larger blower on smaller engines

IJ.

11-03-2013, 11:26 AM

Temps should go down White if you spin it slower to make the same boost, conversly when I geared my 2300 up for the bigger engine the intake temps went up as I expected them to.

white lie

11-03-2013, 12:20 PM

I'd imagine there's some increase in temperature due to the friction, but surely the majority of the rise in intake temp comes from the increase in boost?

Evman

11-03-2013, 12:40 PM

Where's Ken when you need him? :lol:

smash69

11-03-2013, 01:15 PM

I purchased a 2300 on a 5.7 with a cam unsuited for a supercharger (110lsa) and it was making 380rwkw with ported heads. It was reliable for the previous owner for the time he owned it.
I put a blower cam in, and made more power, but broke a ringland. I didn't last long at all (went over 450rwkw).

When I was deciding what to do after breaking my engine, I contacted Harrop, and they told me 2300 was ok for 5.7, HOWEVER, it was recommended that a forged bottom end be built if running on a 5.7. That was more important than capacity in their opinion.
Didn't make sense to spend cash on a forged bottom end and not stroke it as well, so I did that.

v8fazz

11-03-2013, 01:17 PM

Or Jez as he's the one who would be bolting it on to my LS1! :yup:

XUV

11-03-2013, 01:38 PM

Mine is on a C4B. Non boost orientated grind but all the supporting mods.

Some say the 2300 is too big for a 5.7L but there's enough with good results and others say the 1900 is too small for anything bigger than 6L's but they work fine on cammed LS3's so there can't be too much in it from my point of view. Wouldn't have a clue on intake temps with the larger blower on smaller engines

Get a 112 as some mite say on a stock LS1. it's just right. If ya can get an unused one, superceded and cheap.

white lie

11-03-2013, 01:43 PM

Just right in displacement but not in efficiency... or noise for me. Unlike a lot, I'd rather my blower not attract attention ;)

Evman

11-03-2013, 03:44 PM

.
Didn't make sense to spend cash on a forged bottom end and not stroke it as well, so I did that.

All men should aspire to be more like you :bow: :lol:

smash69

11-03-2013, 03:49 PM

All men should aspire to be more like you :bow: :lol:

I wasn't trying to sound like a wanker, just the costs were about the same through my engine builder.

XUV

11-03-2013, 03:52 PM

I wasn't trying to sound like a wanker, just the costs were about the same through my engine builder.
made sense to me, more of a while ya there and got it opened up, just slip these in :D

v8fazz

11-03-2013, 06:03 PM

Hmmm... I like the way you think smash69!

Evman

11-03-2013, 06:17 PM

I wasn't trying to sound like a wanker, just the costs were about the same through my engine builder.

I wasn't having a go. I meant that you have the right frame of mind!

IJ.

11-03-2013, 06:21 PM

made sense to me, more of a while ya there and got it opened up, just slip these in :D

Funny how that happens sometimes ;)

smash69

11-03-2013, 07:23 PM

I wasn't having a go. I meant that you have the right frame of mind!

Sweet. Believe it or not, because I wanted Manley rotating assembly, I actually had trouble at the time sourcing a stock stroke forged rotating assembly in Australia. No one had one.

CV8MAD

12-03-2013, 04:50 PM

Been doing some research into the swap engine deal. Have managed to download and print the Chevy performance catalogue for 2013. It's a goldmine of information. I'm all but convinced to swap engine out and replace with a crate engine. The horsepower and torque graphs they have for every engine is great. Unfortunately it's like a kid in a candy shop. The LSA 6.2L SC is about $15,500 from Aus. dealers. I need to find out how tricky the switch from LS1 and engine bay clearance there is. Only trouble is I'll add 6 months more of saving to do it (if possible), and I don't think I'm disciplined enough to hold out.

timy

12-03-2013, 05:00 PM

If its only six months hold out, it will def be worth it in the long run!

Evman

12-03-2013, 05:03 PM

Absolutely keep on saving! It'll be well worth the wait

Solone

12-03-2013, 08:49 PM

timy

12-03-2013, 09:11 PM

I'm actually putting a procharger on mine at the moment so could let u know the results in two weeks if u wished?

v8fazz

13-03-2013, 07:11 AM

Do you have a link to download the 2013 Chevy performance catalogue?

white lie

13-03-2013, 08:06 AM

Go a vortech or procharger centrifugal.

Down low it drives easy, more forgiving on stock engine/driveline but up top it's a monster which will walk away from the harrop/yt car?

Being up north they are also far more thermally efficient so less heat soak issues.

Just consider it.

I know we've had this discussion many times but how often do you drive around on the street "up top" of the rev range?
Even with my 4500 converter, its only ever up there for 1st gear unless I'm at the track. Anywhere else and you'd find yourself in a lot of strife real quick!

What is meant by more forgiving? With a PD, its either got no boost going in so its got as much force on the engine and driveline as an NA motor or its got nearly full boost going in so you can get the thing up and moving which is exactly what you want.

timy

13-03-2013, 08:34 AM

I thought with a pd blower it was full boost instantly compared to the centri which is a gradual incline of boost till redline, I think that's what's the meant by 'more forgiving'..

Personally I chose the centri because I preferred it after going in both, I like the idea of lower intake temps, and the fact that I wouldve had to lower the motor to fit bonnet clearance with a ls3 and a htv2300 in a pre ve commodore meant I could fit the procharger myself.

As for the how often do go over 4500 rpm... My answer is enough to warrant the centri ;) point is, try both before purchasing any, as I was going to buy the pd as that's what everyone told me to do, sometimes everyone else's idea of what's best, isn't yours.

Solone

13-03-2013, 11:31 AM

I know we've had this discussion many times but how often do you drive around on the street "up top" of the rev range?
Even with my 4500 converter, its only ever up there for 1st gear unless I'm at the track. Anywhere else and you'd find yourself in a lot of strife real quick!

What is meant by more forgiving? With a PD, its either got no boost going in so its got as much force on the engine and driveline as an NA motor or its got nearly full boost going in so you can get the thing up and moving which is exactly what you want.

by the same token why do you need 300+rwkw on the street with any forced induction? when do you use it?

The centri is far more forgiving on a stock motor/driveline.

1. With a PD supercharger its not all or nothing boost which shocks the pistons/rods, from no boost to full boost all of a sudden.
2. With a PD supercharger whilst it isnt making boost its still cost power as the crank is still driving it hard (much more so than a centri at low revs)
3. It sits over the motor generating heat and recirculating the heat in 95% of the driving when you not using its power/torque. Centri is on the side and doesnt recirculate or generate the same heat.
4. What exactly is the benefit on the street with street tyres of having excessive torque downlow? burnouts or aquaplaning in the wet?
5. We can only really see the benefits of these superchargers at the track (where the centri will shine), on the street its more about looks and presence for either combo. Have a look at the quicker cars, all turbo or centri.

IJ.

13-03-2013, 11:39 AM

Quick question: Have you owned either?

Evman

13-03-2013, 11:51 AM

1. With a PD supercharger its not all or nothing boost which shocks the pistons/rods, from no boost to full boost all of a sudden.
2. With a PD supercharger whilst it isnt making boost its still cost power as the crank is still driving it hard (much more so than a centri at low revs)
3. It sits over the motor generating heat and recirculating the heat in 95% of the driving when you not using its power/torque. Centri is on the side and doesnt recirculate or generate the same heat.
4. What exactly is the benefit on the street with street tyres of having excessive torque downlow? burnouts or aquaplaning in the wet?
5. We can only really see the benefits of these superchargers at the track (where the centri will shine), on the street its more about looks and presence for either combo. Have a look at the quicker cars, all turbo or centri.

1. It's not all of a sudden, it's gradual in a sense, but very quick. It does have a shock loading effect like you said though
2. With Harrops and Magnuson blowers, when it's not making boost the rotors are more or less in free air. The only real resistance would be the mechanical loss of the gears and belt.
3. In "95%" of driving it's not making boost, so it's not generating heat. It will be affected by heatsoak, but I don't think that's what you were suggesting.
4. What is the benefit of low down torque on the street? Are you serious? Go drive an RX8 at low revs and then see how useful low down torque is on the street.
5. Absolute bullshit. Ask anyone who has driven any blown car and see if they noticed any benefits. To suggest there are no recognisable benefits on the street is ridiculous.

How often do I use my 500rwkw on the street? Extremely rarely. How often do I use my ~200rwhp at 2500rpm? A hell of a lot.

white lie

13-03-2013, 12:15 PM

When you say "the quicker cars" you obviously don't mean top fuelers... faster than these?

Most people that put a top mount blower on, drive their cars on the street more than they race them. This is exactly what I do and thus streetability whilst still being very quick and consistent when I race is what I want out of my car.

smash69

13-03-2013, 01:29 PM

I guess it's a case of 'each to their own'
Centri guys like to have not much going on down low, and all the action happening in the top end I assume.
Personally for that setup, I'd be invested in a big turbo.
I have mates with prochargers, and I have owned old school roots blown small blocks. I went PD.
I like being able to bury my throttle at 80k's in 3rd gear (no clutch step) and paint a pair of black lines on the road.
Also having massive torque down low makes for a awesome street drive, very little throttle loadings, but still shuffling through the traffic with ease.

Solone

13-03-2013, 03:28 PM

Quick question: Have you owned either?

owned both.

Solone

13-03-2013, 03:34 PM

I like being able to bury my throttle at 80k's in 3rd gear (no clutch step) and paint a pair of black lines on the road.

Also having massive torque down low makes for a awesome street drive, very little throttle loadings, but still shuffling through the traffic with ease.

Each to their own.

You might like painting black stripes on the tarmac, id prefer to be shooting off down the road with traction, power coming on when the car will be able to use it. Our cars are not RX8s they have plenty torque down low but need it up top after 100km/h etc.

Some of us say its free spinning with low throttle input with no boost, no heat and no load on the crank, but your saying the massive torque is there with light throttle? which is it? cant be both.

IJ.

13-03-2013, 03:38 PM

owned both.
That's odd, doesn't seem like you'd owned either going by this thread a couple of months back...

http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?162275-Centrifugal-VS-positive-Displacement-superchargers-for-LS1-LS2

smash69

13-03-2013, 04:05 PM

Each to their own.

You might like painting black stripes on the tarmac, id prefer to be shooting off down the road with traction, power coming on when the car will be able to use it. Our cars are not RX8s they have plenty torque down low but need it up top after 100km/h etc.

Some of us say its free spinning with low throttle input with no boost, no heat and no load on the crank, but your saying the massive torque is there with light throttle? which is it? cant be both.

Yes I did say massive torque down low, and I can use light throttle loadings and the available torque even at light loading makes it feel effortless. I also said each to there own, but going back through some of your posts, you obviously favour centri blowers whenever somebody asks a supercharger related question.

As for load on the crank, surely it would be comparative between both, I don't know cause I haven't researched it.
I don't have shares in either Harrop or Procharger, so don't push either way. Just post my own experience.

If you have had both, how did they compare power wise? We're the engines similar spec? Can you post the sheets so OP can see the torque curves and see where the power hits so he can decide what he wants from his build?

timy

13-03-2013, 04:19 PM

Don't know why everyone fights so much about this, it's personal choice, there is no right or wrong answer.

Simple answer is, go for a ride in both and make your own decision..

Having said that centri blowers are the right choice :P

smash69

13-03-2013, 04:22 PM

Evman

13-03-2013, 05:20 PM

Our cars are not RX8s they have plenty torque down low but need it up top after 100km/h etc.

Where are you driving on the street at 100km/h and high revs?

CV8MAD

14-03-2013, 07:05 AM

Do you have a link to download the 2013 Chevy performance catalogue?
Yeah fazz it's http://www.chevroletperformance.com/Parts/catalog.jsp
It's something like 388 or 338 pages. I've printed all the stuff off at work about the LS family and teir components. The pile is about a inch thick.

There is a engine builder at work and I've given him some information on the LS37/480 6.2L and the LSA 6.2 SC. He's having a look at it for me as far as ease of engine swapping, maybe building one from scratch to exactly what I want. And the price difference between the 2 options.

We are looking at a seconed hand LS3 block and going from there with the options listed in the catalouge. The fact they use beehive springs in their engines is pretty good. Apparently.