Want to make my VZ SS 5.7 go faster

[Crazykent]

At the moment its got pacemaker headers, sureflo 3.5 inch exhaust with hi flow cats and a growler induction.

I've been tossing up the idea of getting a dyno tune or a stage 1 cam but my problem is i dont wanna get tune and want more power or get a cam
and it be hard to drive around town/chew more fuel/wear out other parts quicker.

Are there other mods i can do plus a dyno tune where i might be happy with it?

Or if im unsure about anything else should i just go straight for cam? Are the issues i mentioned with a cam realistic?

[Ratsmow]

youll get plenty of advise on hear mate, some good some not so good, why dont you contact one of the reputable performance outlets (forum sponsors) on here that are close to you and discuss your needs with them.

[mechatron]

Do these 3 things for now and you will see a massive improvement.
1. Ditch the growler and get a Duspeed OTR (over the radiator air intake)
2. Change diff gears to 3.73, 3.91 or 4.11s
3. Get it tuned by a reputable tuner.

This should keep you happy for a while, and in this time you can work out what camshaft you want in the future since there are soooo many cams to choose from

[Crazykent]

youll get plenty of advise on hear mate, some good some not so good, why dont you contact one of the reputable performance outlets (forum sponsors) on here that are close to you and discuss your needs with them.

Thats where my power of deduction comes in. I've already been turned off from asking someone advice thats aready trying to sell something, figured i'd just come here and get some ideas from across the 'board' so to speak.



Do these 3 things for now and you will see a massive improvement.
1. Ditch the growler and get a Duspeed OTR
2. Change diff gears to 3.73, 3.91 or 4.11s
3. Get it tuned by a reputable tuner.

This should keep you happy for a while, and in this time you can work out what can you want in the future since there are soooo many cam choices out there

I got the growler for 2 slabs of corona lol been wanting OTR ever since but cant justify spending the money when i've already got one basically for 80 bucks lol

Man i've been contemplating diff gears since someone suggested it years ago but can always find a downside to it. Although ur response is making me think about it again, one step lower should be fine i reckon especially since it's an auto.

And as for tuning if i knew who to go to i'd prob already done it, i live in belgrave, anyone know closest/cheapest to their? i've heard of some paying as low as $750.

[mechatron]

Thats where my power of deduction comes in. I've already been turned off from asking someone advice thats aready trying to sell something, figured i'd just come here and get some ideas from across the 'board' so to speak.




I got the growler for 2 slabs of corona lol been wanting OTR ever since but cant justify spending the money when i've already got one basically for 80 bucks lol

Man i've been contemplating diff gears since someone suggested it years ago but can always find a downside to it. Although ur response is making me think about it again, one step lower should be fine i reckon especially since it's an auto.

And as for tuning if i knew who to go to i'd prob already done it, i live in belgrave, anyone know closest/cheapest to their? i've heard of some paying as low as $750.

Couple of things
1.growler to OTR....you will notice a difference in induction sound and seat of the pants acceleration. You would also get a quicker time over the 1/4 mile with a Duspeed OTR

2. Go 3.73 diff gears since its auto. The rpms won't sit that much higher at 100kph and you'll get into your torque range quicker

3. Also these days, you shouldn't have to pay any more than $1000 (usually $800 to $1000) to get it tuned by a decent tuner

[mechatron]

As for a tuner, go and see Chevs Performance in Carrum Downs. There are many happy forum members on here that use him quite regularly....not me since I'm in Sydney (mine's tuned by Sam :bow:)

[vzv8man]

Duspeed also have just released a Duspeed MAF otr, however they say you will need a tune with this. Usually the maf tunes are a bit cheaper.

[Crazykent]

As for a tuner, go and see Chevs Performance in Carrum Downs. There are many happy forum members on here that use him quite regularly....not me since I'm in Sydney (mine's tuned by Sam :bow:)

Any idea what the difference between these 2 are? other than the price. Also what about the 3.45? or is that too small of a step?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HOLDEN-COMMODORE-VT-SERII-VY-VZ-3-73-OR-3-91-M80-DIFF-GEARS-GENUINE-OEM-/321177723870?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ac7af23de

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIFF-GEARS-GENUINE-HSV-3-73-CROWN-WHEEL-AND-PINION-GEAR-SET-SUIT-VT-II-VX-VY-VZ-/221042612024?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item33772a9738

Damn i've had a couple chances to get a duspeed aswell, now im spewin.

And yeh the guy i bought the exhaust off went there i think an only paid 750.

[JezzaB]

Any idea what the difference between these 2 are? other than the price. Also what about the 3.45? or is that too small of a step?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HOLDEN-COMMODORE-VT-SERII-VY-VZ-3-73-OR-3-91-M80-DIFF-GEARS-GENUINE-OEM-/321177723870?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ac7af23de

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIFF-GEARS-GENUINE-HSV-3-73-CROWN-WHEEL-AND-PINION-GEAR-SET-SUIT-VT-II-VX-VY-VZ-/221042612024?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item33772a9738

Damn i've had a couple chances to get a duspeed aswell, now im spewin.

And yeh the guy i bought the exhaust off went there i think an only paid 750.

Your going to need more then just the gearset mate. Bearings, seals, oil, labour to build and R/R etc.

[QIKSV8]

OTR, gears and a mafless tune. Youll be happy for a few months. The growlers are total crap OTR is alot better.

[Drizt]

OTR, gears and a mafless tune. Youll be happy for a few months. The growlers are total crap OTR is alot better.

Agreed. Should be able to get the that all done for under $2.5k

[JezzaB]

Agreed. Should be able to get the that all done for under $2.5k

Can you break down the costs of each item to get to this value please? I'd like to compare

Thanks :)

[SSUte01]

I reckon closer to $1500 for those mods. Best value for diff gears IMO is to source a M6 3.46 or Clubby 3.73, if that's what you're after, complete LSD and put it in rather than rebuild the current diff.

[abrowne70]

$1500 for a decent otr, tune and diff gears, i dont think so

A good diff build will cost over $1000 alone
plus $700 for a Duspeed OTR then a tune $800ish depending on where you go

[white lie]

$1500?
Out of interest, how much do you expect to pay for a tune?

For quality work, I would roughly break it down something like this...
Intake - $500
Diff - $1200
Tune $800

So close to the 2.5k figure, some OTR's will be more than others. Even this would be on the cheap side IMO, I can't really see it happening for a grand less but obviously you'll save money using second hand gear, up to you if you want to go down that route. Manuals are usually slightly cheaper on the tune cost too but I'm just talking ballpark here.

[Drizt]

Can you break down the costs of each item to get to this value please? I'd like to compare

Thanks :)

Sure, I picked up my second hand lsd diff centre for $600 and got my tune and OTR done for $1500.

[FrangaFry]

As for a tuner, go and see Chevs Performance in Carrum Downs. There are many happy forum members on here that use him quite regularly....not me since I'm in Sydney (mine's tuned by Sam :bow:)

Your on the money there mechatron, Chev is the man.

CrazyKent, I also live in Belgrave and make the trip to Chev's for all the good bits; It's a bit of a hike from Belgrave, but I re'kn Chev and the guys are worth the effort. Top blokes, they know their sh1t, do great work and stand by everything they do ............ I can't recommend Chev's Performance enough mate.

[JezzaB]

Sure, I picked up my second hand lsd diff centre for $600 and got my tune and OTR done for $1500.

oh ok. I thought we were talking new

[Drizt]

oh ok. I thought we were talking new

No problems. Any real reason to buy a new LSD when you can get a second hand one for 1/3 the price ?

[white lie]

There isn't really one provided it actually performs as it should. Can't tell how those types of things have been treated, especially if you're buying a complete diff.

[SSUte01]

$1500?
Out of interest, how much do you expect to pay for a tune?

For quality work, I would roughly break it down something like this...
Intake - $500
Diff - $1200
Tune $800

So close to the 2.5k figure, some OTR's will be more than others. Even this would be on the cheap side IMO, I can't really see it happening for a grand less but obviously you'll save money using second hand gear, up to you if you want to go down that route. Manuals are usually slightly cheaper on the tune cost too but I'm just talking ballpark here.

Agreed if you're talking about a diff rebuild, sorry I should've explained that I was basing that comment on a second hand complete LSD which is around $4-500 for 3.46 and perhaps $5-600 for 3.73. Brand new VCM Alloy OTR for less than $500 and a few hundred for a quality tune. Well less than $1500. Don't be under the misconception that because someone pays $800 for a tune, that it will be quality. The $630 tune I saw the other day was a corker, point is, price and quality don't necessarily go hand in hand for tuning nor do internet reviews is my experience over the past 8 or so years.

[cava454]

New after market diff gears are $500-550. Genuine are $700-1000.
To get the diff built prob another $700-1000. More if you add a true track center (which I recommend)

Intake is around the $300-600 depending on what you use. (Currently looking to sell my DuSpeed OTR if your keen at all)

You will be hard pressed to get a Dyno tune FROM A SHOP for under $1000...Id use APS in frankstone. Alternatively I know a mate that can help you regarding the tune who is a lot cheaper. Does his own free lance work so he has no over heads.

[bozodos]

Surely that's not the going rate for an LS1 bolt on tune these days...

[whitels1ss]

Surely that's not the going rate for an LS1 bolt on tune these days...

I agree mate, I can't see many people paying that sort of money these days.

[bozodos]

well I'd assume that most tuners would own the vehicle stream licence (if HPT), and that they would use pretty much a generic tweak with the usual couple of tweaks. I could of course be wrong, but that's how my VZ was done, and the bolt on dyno tune was $750 inc $250 for HPT credits

[BlackGen3]

$1500 for a decent otr, tune and diff gears, i dont think so

A good diff build will cost over $1000 alone
plus $700 for a Duspeed OTR then a tune $800ish depending on where you go


This is what I paid here in SA, $700 for Duspeed OTR shipped to my door, and $800 for mafless tune at Willall.

Before tune I was running a growler pod intake, much prefer the OTR by miles, looks 100% better.

Next is diff gears and stall (as recommended by tuner), 2nd hand 3.46 diffs are roughly $500 from wreckers here.

[surfwagon]

Pity your in SA I just pulled out my 3.46LSd and fitted a 2nd hand 3.73LSD, feels better and fuel use is a little better.

[surfwagon]

There isn't really one provided it actually performs as it should. Can't tell how those types of things have been treated, especially if you're buying a complete diff.

Ive bought 3 x 2nd hand diffs for myself, son and a friend and they have all been good and Half or less than the kays of the cars they were going into.
The 2 x 3.46's cost $450 + $465 and my 3.73 cost $700.
only extra cost was that my sons was a late VZ into VY and mine was VY into HSV Z so they both cost an extra $100 to have the pinion flanges changed.

[JezzaB]

Ive bought 3 x 2nd hand diffs for myself, son and a friend and they have all been good and Half or less than the kays of the cars they were going into.
The 2 x 3.46's cost $450 + $465 and my 3.73 cost $700.
only extra cost was that my sons was a late VZ into VY and mine was VY into HSV Z so they both cost an extra $100 to have the pinion flanges changed.

How much to install?

[Toddler78]

Wow I got a good deal on my custom cam tune for $500 then :hide:

[surfwagon]

How much to install?

$0 my son and I did our swaps just this week and I helped my mate do his a couple of years back, they were all complete 2nd hand diffs.

[RARASV8]

if the op is still looking
http://www.gmmotorsport.com/home/

not bad for the tune and otr

Garry

[cava454]

if the op is still looking
http://www.gmmotorsport.com/home/

not bad for the tune and otr

Garry

Hard pressed to beat that.

[bozodos]

that is a really good price, their RRP is a bit optimistic though!

[bigfoot]

that is a really good price, their RRP is a bit optimistic though!
Yeah, I doubt they would have sold very many at that price.

[Crazykent]

hey sorry i didnt get back to you guys just been mulling it over. Can't reply to you all but you've all contributed a lot thankyou.

Im having a hard time making a decision but what it comes down to is what im going to be the happiest with, without wanting 'more' instantly.

A common response i seem to get is, 'depends what you want'. But this is the first V8 i've had and i only know that i want that 'warp speed' feeling
throughout more of the rev range. I've never driven a car with anything other than what i've got, intake/exhaust/suspension
so i have no real idea what im talking about or even asking, i just know there's 2 options cam/tune or diff/tune

Heres how im looking at it right now:

Cam: better sound, more overall power, more torque, tuned the way i like it

Tune: not as much overall power gain, will be cruising in 3rd/4th more (they are long= a negative), more torque, tuned for torque
which is what i want but if it's not making as 'much' power than i dont think ill get that "oh sh|t im going to fast" feeling, that i want.

I guess that says im leaning towards the cam/tune. I dunno im just getting this feeling now that im making the car too much of a firecracker.

It's got 20s, $1500 stereo, lowered on monroe shocks, full exhaust, intake, its turismo blue. I mean, how badass can a car be/get? lol just dont wanna
jinx myself and destroy myself driving this thing too fast cause its 'too much fun.

[RARASV8]

okay Crazy, this is what i did, but a manual
stock 14.0
1st was a ripshift (manual only) 13,9
2nd was mafles tune and otr 13.5
3rd was diff gears 13.2
4th 1 3/4 4into1 pacies 13.1 240 on chevs
5th 25% underdrive pulleys and rocker ratio change 1.9 12.9 248 on chevs

with an auto, tune otr and diff gears with what you already have would be quick. with a highstall an easy 12 second car and still give you good l/100 k's on the highway and around town.


Garry

[Crazykent]

Ok Garry i think i get what your saying but what does 240 on chevs mean?

What gearing did you put in yours?

Also what is it actually like to drive a car with a stall converter? If you take off like you normall do its the same but if you put the foot down
from standing start it will rev up to watever stall you have then take off? or does it do that anytime you hit the pedal hard?

[Gmfan]

Chevs dyno I think is on the conservative side of dyno readings.

Good stalls are unnoticeable in daily driving but then flare to higher rev under heavy throttle. I'd look at a 3500 ish stall but if you plan on getting big cam down the track then base stall on size cam you want. It was suggested that I wouldn't like a big stall on stock cam car just after getting cheap secondhand tce 2800rpm stall I think 3500-4000 would still have been fine and more fun. Some people I have read about got sloppy stalls and hated it so the tightness of convertor has more impact on drivability than flash rpm I think.

[clubzls2]

Get a tune and enjoy your car. Once you open them up and do more it never ends...If you really want to go fast get a bike. BTW if you decide to go to Chev's buzz me and we might get a 2 for 1 discount...:cool:

[cava454]

What's your budget...

[mechatron]

Sounds like you need to do cam (& tune) and diff gears first up. That way you won't have to pay for for two tunes. With cam you have so many choices but best staying with a lower duration. Some popular choices for cams are: 215/223, 220/220, 219/227, 222/224 or 224/228 all with 112LSA

[Crazykent]

Chevs dyno I think is on the conservative side of dyno readings.

Good stalls are unnoticeable in daily driving but then flare to higher rev under heavy throttle. I'd look at a 3500 ish stall but if you plan on getting big cam down the track then base stall on size cam you want. It was suggested that I wouldn't like a big stall on stock cam car just after getting cheap secondhand tce 2800rpm stall I think 3500-4000 would still have been fine and more fun. Some people I have read about got sloppy stalls and hated it so the tightness of convertor has more impact on drivability than flash rpm I think.

Im just going to be getting the base cam, ive been told a stally isn't necessary with a stage 1 or whatever they're called. They do sound like fun but only wanna spend what i have to.

[Crazykent]

Get a tune and enjoy your car. Once you open them up and do more it never ends...If you really want to go fast get a bike. BTW if you decide to go to Chev's buzz me and we might get a 2 for 1 discount...:cool:

No bike, dont need anymore injurys lol. Well thats why i wanna make it relatively scary 0-110kmph and ill have no need to go any further. Well it might be happening real soon so i will pm you as soon as im ready an ill line up a day with chevs to book in both cars for a cheaper price. Cant see why they wouldn't do it.

[Crazykent]

What's your budget...

Realistically, 5 grand. But only if i have to, to get what i need to be satisfied. Ill try an get away with it for 3 grand since im gonna stick with the growler to save money and already got full exhaust. Any idea how much worse it would be on fuel taking it easy round semi rural town with a cam/tune?

[Crazykent]

Sounds like you need to do cam (& tune) and diff gears first up. That way you won't have to pay for for two tunes. With cam you have so many choices but best staying with a lower duration. Some popular choices for cams are: 215/223, 220/220, 219/227, 222/224 or 224/228 all with 112LSA

I dont know what those numbers mean.

To me it seems like if i do diff/tune now, i may end up short of what i want, then a cam later will end up being overkill

If i just did cam/tune now. I shouldn't have to tune it if i put diff gears in later would i?

[Gmfan]

I think the reset shift points for new gears. Mine didnt shift right when I fitted 3.7s and holden said just recalibrating speedo wouldnt correct it. I took it to Chevs. Didnt cost me much though. Certainly not retune money. Maybe $100 tops.

[Crazykent]

I think the reset shift points for new gears. Mine didnt shift right when I fitted 3.7s and holden said just recalibrating speedo wouldnt correct it. I took it to Chevs. Didnt cost me much though. Certainly not retune money. Maybe $100 tops.

Oh ok well thats alright then. thanks mate.

[RARASV8]

Ok Garry i think i get what your saying but what does 240 on chevs mean?

What gearing did you put in yours?

Also what is it actually like to drive a car with a stall converter? If you take off like you normall do its the same but if you put the foot down
from standing start it will rev up to watever stall you have then take off? or does it do that anytime you hit the pedal hard?

yes 240 RWKW's @ Chevs was on a dyno day may 2009 and the 248 rwkw's was another dyno day at Chevs for Movember 2011.

have you been in a car with 240+ RWKW's?
my misses VTSS s2 just has a mafless tune and with the power button on it gets up and boogies. if i drove this car everyday i would not have a licence, as when i change mine into 3rd, i know it's licence bye bye if caught and back off.

Garry

[clubzls2]

No bike, dont need anymore injurys lol. Well thats why i wanna make it relatively scary 0-110kmph and ill have no need to go any further. Well it might be happening real soon so i will pm you as soon as im ready an ill line up a day with chevs to book in both cars for a cheaper price. Cant see why they wouldn't do it.


OK I'll be on standby...I spoke with Gary very recently and I'm still deciding what exactly I want to do tune wise to. Their cam package is 3K I think on their website.

[Crazykent]

yes 240 RWKW's @ Chevs was on a dyno day may 2009 and the 248 rwkw's was another dyno day at Chevs for Movember 2011.

have you been in a car with 240+ RWKW's?
my misses VTSS s2 just has a mafless tune and with the power button on it gets up and boogies. if i drove this car everyday i would not have a licence, as when i change mine into 3rd, i know it's licence bye bye if caught and back off.

Garry

Nah fastest car i've driven is mine. Thats why im asking all these questions i dont know anyone with a car that has more than an exhaust/intake.

Dont get me wrong my car feels fast. But only in first gear when u plant it or when your in 3rd and it drops down to 2nd.

If u plant 2nd its nothing compared to dropping down from 3rd. And 3rd on its own 80kmh - 120kmh is slightly less exciting than hitting 2nd on its own lol

[ittwgn]

yes 240 RWKW's @ Chevs was on a dyno day may 2009 and the 248 rwkw's was another dyno day at Chevs for Movember 2011.

have you been in a car with 240+ RWKW's?
my misses VTSS s2 just has a mafless tune and with the power button on it gets up and boogies. if i drove this car everyday i would not have a licence, as when i change mine into 3rd, i know it's licence bye bye if caught and back off.

Garry

funny shit there garry 240rwkw come on have a go hahah!!! you can lose your licence just as fast in a barina if you drive like an idiot!!! my street setting is 600rwkw drive all the time don't be silly all good !! cheers

[white lie]

Why don't you want a converter?

I've seen bolt on cars go faster than cam only cars.
Do the diff, stall and tune. You'll have a very very low 12 second car that is nice to drive and allow you to put a much bigger cam in it once the funds allow.

Do the cam now and you'll be limited by choice/size.

If you just do the tune now, it's only a 2 second exercise once the gears go in to correct the speedo and maybe adjust the shift points. Will cost you a very minimal amount or most likely nothing at all.

[Crazykent]

Why don't you want a converter?

I've seen bolt on cars go faster than cam only cars.
Do the diff, stall and tune. You'll have a very very low 12 second car that is nice to drive and allow you to put a much bigger cam in it once the funds allow.

Do the cam now and you'll be limited by choice/size.

If you just do the tune now, it's only a 2 second exercise once the gears go in to correct the speedo and maybe adjust the shift points. Will cost you a very minimal amount or most likely nothing at all.

I dunno i thought it would make it harder to drive normal with a stall converter in it. Im realising now it doesnt, how much they cost?

With the diff i was convinced that it would mess up the lengths of the gears, 1st would be useless, 2nd would be too short and 3rd still too long.
Have you been in an auto with 3.7's in it, in what way does it drive differently?

Now im leaning towards the diff/tune after watching a few videos on youtube. as far as what a cam does it still gets you too 100kmh quicker
but you can't have all that power in 0-100 where as with the diff gears you can as i dont plan on ever going faster than 120 around where i live anyhow

[whitels1ss]

Do the diff gears mate, you will not regret it.
IMHO you get a bigger bang for buck and the car would be better to drive out of diff gears and no cam
than you would with doing a cam and no diff gears.
The diff gears should even perhaps give you better fuel economy around town also.

[white lie]

I've got a 4500 stall and 3.91's.
Driven loads of autos with 3.73's, 3.91's and 4.11's.

It doesn't make the gears useless at all, it will be one of the best bang for buck mods you can do. Really wakes the car up. You're increasing the torque available to the rear wheels so it will feel stronger thru all the gears, especially off the line where it needs torque to overcome the inertia of the vehicle and get it moving.

On the stall side, as long as you get a tight converter, it will be a dream to drive. Loose ones will flare up at any sign of throttle where a tight one will behave like the stock one until you really mash the pedal. My missus drove my car daily for a long time and had no issues what so ever. I'd let my mum drive it but she'd just say its too loud! A good converter, I would spend around a grand. Look at something around the 3200 as a minimum. 3500-4500 is fairly common.

You will get these three mods for well under 5K, probably more like 3.
Then save another 3 and get the cam done... should have the funds just in time for you to get bored with the car and the power bug to bite ;)

[Gmfan]

Partly depends on cam choice. If you get small cam then you will still feel faster in mid rev range. If you get a big cam then will only notice it right at peak revs.

Where abouts are you located CrazyKent? Mines manual now but could maybe take you for a drive.

[Crazykent]

Do the diff gears mate, you will not regret it.
IMHO you get a bigger bang for buck and the car would be better to drive out of diff gears and no cam
than you would with doing a cam and no diff gears.
The diff gears should even perhaps give you better fuel economy around town also.

That all sounds very pleasing. Your right mate, im gonna do it. Thankyou i appreciate the help.

[Crazykent]

I've got a 4500 stall and 3.91's.
Driven loads of autos with 3.73's, 3.91's and 4.11's.

It doesn't make the gears useless at all, it will be one of the best bang for buck mods you can do. Really wakes the car up. You're increasing the torque available to the rear wheels so it will feel stronger thru all the gears, especially off the line where it needs torque to overcome the inertia of the vehicle and get it moving.

On the stall side, as long as you get a tight converter, it will be a dream to drive. Loose ones will flare up at any sign of throttle where a tight one will behave like the stock one until you really mash the pedal. My missus drove my car daily for a long time and had no issues what so ever. I'd let my mum drive it but she'd just say its too loud! A good converter, I would spend around a grand. Look at something around the 3200 as a minimum. 3500-4500 is fairly common.

You will get these three mods for well under 5K, probably more like 3.
Then save another 3 and get the cam done... should have the funds just in time for you to get bored with the car and the power bug to bite ;)

You make very good points. Im finally understanding all this stuff! all you guys are very helpful thankyou and thank you white lie.

Diff/tune/stally it is!

[white lie]

That's what we're all here for.
There's a wealth of information on here mate :)

[Crazykent]

Partly depends on cam choice. If you get small cam then you will still feel faster in mid rev range. If you get a big cam then will only notice it right at peak revs.

Where abouts are you located CrazyKent? Mines manual now but could maybe take you for a drive.

Oh ok. That makes sense. In monbulk mate. Thats ok! i appreciate the offer but im just gonna take it down the shop and get it down. Thankyou you've been very helpful also. Great forum this!

[Crazykent]

And here's a pic so u can see what im working with

http://s11.postimg.org/3tt50f83n/942363_10200670576661553_777561526_n.jpg

[D_BLOCK]

My old SSZ was the same colour and I loved it. Those mags look good can you get a better shot of them, I cant tell if its a white of silver inlay into the black.

Jas

[Solone]

I reckon closer to $1500 for those mods. Best value for diff gears IMO is to source a M6 3.46 or Clubby 3.73, if that's what you're after, complete LSD and put it in rather than rebuild the current diff.

I chucked in a set of 3.46 diff gears in my auto.. It adds acceleration but gears are much shorter now

I wouldn't go 3.73 or 3.9 in an auto, way too short, makes car quicker but too short and it drives like a hobo

[dezza]

i put 3.7s in my auto vy clubby and to be honest i wish i went 3.9s
the 3.7s were great with a maffless tune didnt really chew any more fuel was quicker seat of your pants acceleration off the line

[itsme4g63]

If you don't want to bust the engine open:

-OTR
-Long tube headers
-Full exhaust.

Those paired with a diff and dyno tune will make the car reasonably faster over stock.

But, that might not be enough, so:

-243 heads
-228ttr cam

these two will net you the most hp, you will need a better clutch, best bang for buck is the ls7 clutch/flywheel combo.

[whitels1ss]

you will need a better clutch, best bang for buck is the ls7 clutch/flywheel combo.
His car is an Auto buddy;)

[itsme4g63]

His car is an Auto buddy;)

Snap, didn't see that at first.

[whitels1ss]

Snap, didn't see that at first.

Hey I have made the same kind of mistake before.....once or more times:stick::lmao:

[kangavxss]

I chucked in a set of 3.46 diff gears in my auto.. It adds acceleration but gears are much shorter now

I wouldn't go 3.73 or 3.9 in an auto, way too short, makes car quicker but too short and it drives like a hobo

Rubbish. Changed from 3.07 to 3.73 and its the best mod ive done, drives like a dream ( push you back in your seat acceleration off the line and kick down is almost neck snapping) nothing short about them , love it..

[white lie]

I agree, even 4.11's didn't make the gears anywhere near too short. Just revs a little high on the highway/freeway for my liking.

[RARASV8]

sorry for this:hide:
now this is a very old post on this forum, it took me 2 hours to find and i knew what i was looking for but here goes.




jeff3205






Re: Suggestions please

Hi VX SS,

I bought a VXII SS M6 about 2 weeks ago. I have spent too much time over the past month on this forum investigating what modifications to do, so I thought I would share the results of my research with you. I haven't done these yet (but am planning to do so in January) so if I am out on any of the details, those who have please feel free to set me straight! All prices are for Melbourne.

Conventional wisdom seems to be that the most cost-effective mods are diff gear ratio, exhaust, cold air intake and LS1 edit.

I am not sure whether you have an A4 or M6. For the M6 which has a 3.46:1 final drive ratio stock, changing to 3.91:1 reportedly gives a substantial increase in performance, aids driveability and improves economy. For the A4 which has 3.07:1 stock, the recommended change is to 3.46:1. I have been pricing 3.91s - supplied and fitted the going rate is around $1,200. If you have an A4 then fitting 3.46s will be cheaper as there are quite a few used 3.46 gearsets around, mostly from M6 drivers who are upgrading. A4 maybe $200 cheaper if you can source used parts this way. I will be selling my used 3.46s in the new year if you are interested.

Note that if you change the diff gear ratio you will need to get the PCM (powertrain control module) updated so that the speedo reads correctly after the change. To get the PCM changed just for this seems to be around $150 if done via tuner with the LS1 edit software. Although if the tuner also does the diff gears then the PCM change might be included in the diff gears price - not sure about that. If you have a tune done with LS1 edit (see below) then the speedo recalibration should be included in the edit tune price.

Other changes: LS1 edit gives a big improvement on its own, or if done with exhaust and intake then it also optimises the effect of those mods. Get the LS1 edit done last.

Exhaust mods are in 3 parts - extractors, catalytic converters (cats) and the exhaust from the cats back (cat-back). Extractors come in Tri-Y shape or 4-into-1 shape. Tri-Y is better for low-rpm torque and is the choice for street driving. 4-1 give better high-rpm power and is the choice if quarter mile times are the goal. Extractors are around the $700 mark. HPC (high performance coating) on the extractors keeps heat in the exhaust and out of the engine bay and costs extra - I haven't priced this yet. Extractors come in different pipe diameters. 1 5/8th inch diameter pipes work well on the street - talk with the shop to confirm suitability for your needs.

With cats, you can have the factory cats opened up (the pipework to/from the cats enlarged) or get new aftermarket hi-flow cats. I have had the factory cat mod priced at $315. New cats are more expensive. Hi-flowing the factory cats seems to be fine.

Re the cat-back, you can go from $600 cheapies with press bends in mild steel up to $1500+ for custom-made mandrel bent systems with stainless steel. The main advantage of stainless is that it lasts longer. Mild steel can rust out in 2 years. A very important consideration is how much drone the exhaust produces. The better shops can build the exhaust so that there is no drone. For street driving the best system appears to be a twin 2.5 inch pipe diameter. Also, the cat back system will include some sort of pipe between the two exhaust pipes. A common type of crossover is called a kiss pipe whereby the two exhaust pipes merge together then diverge after the merge (i.e. the two pipes "kiss"). Apparently this is not ideal as the cross section in the merge section is quite restrictive. It seems that an "X" shape manufactured pipe section gives less restriction than the kiss style pipe.

I have priced a full exhaust including extractors, cat mod and mild steel cat-back at $2,020 from G&D. If I was in Sydney I would go to Sureflow as many people rave about them in the forums. I was actually considering buying a sureflow system and having it sent down for fitting, but will probably just go with a Melbourne supplier in the end for convenience.

Re cold air intakes, the most cost effective way is to install a cold air box from a Monaro. This is then modified so that there is a second hole in the airbox with a tube leading into it. The parts are under $30 if you do the mod yourself. Tuners providing a different cold air setup charge up to $500. Another alternative is an "over the radiator" cold air box, although these are not generally available in a format that allows the MAF to be retained (see below). The OTR setup seems to be superior, but you tend to lose the factory look under the bonnet. Powertorque sells an OTR CAI that looks almost factory (around $600), but you generally need to remove the radiator shroud. I will probably go with the traditional airbox routing as I am not going to keep my car for more than 2 years and want to have it look more or less stock for a prospective purchaser.

Also, the pipe that runs from the airbox to the throttle body (called MAF pipe or TB pipe) should be changed. The most common replacement is the item used on the HSV GTS. This can be used without a MAF (as per GTS) or modified so it fits with the MAF retained. I believe the factory price of the GTS pipe is around $165 (more if sourced from a tuned, and included in the $500 intake system referred to above).

The final mod is to remap the PCM using the LS1 edit software. This enables the PCM to be completely rewritten with substantial gains in performance. There are two schools of thought on this. One is to retain the MAF (mass airflow sensor). The other is to remove the MAF, thereby having the PCM calculate the airflow into the engine based on manifold pressure and rpm. Both seem to work well. Note that the HSV GTS is MAFless from the factory. Some tuners swear that MAFless gives better performance, in part because the MAF is removed thereby reducing restriction in the intake system. Sam's Performance, Dick's and F1 Performance amongst others are proponents of MAFless tuning. G&D is the most prominent proponent of retaining the MAF. For engines under maybe 240rwkw it seems that keeping the MAF is not detrimental to power output. MAFless tuning seems to be around $1,500, whilst tuning with the MAF is around $1,000.

Overall the above mods will likely be around the $5k mark from what I have priced in Melbourne (although I have only gotten a quote from G&D so far). This should give 220+rwkw which is over 300kw at the flywheel - not bad for the cost of a VX + $5k and a hell of a lot cheaper than buying a GTS!

Some other minor mods include altering the thermostat so that the engine runs cooler and allowing more advance to be programmed into the PCM. This allow tuning for a bit more power and costs under $200 from memory in conjunction with other work.

Finally some people are changing the pulley size for the accessory drive belt so that the accessories are driven slower (called an underdrive pulley). This reduces the power used up to drive the accessories, thereby giving more power at the wheels. I have costed this at around $600 and for the gain involved I will not be doing it.

The other mod I will probably do on my M6 is to have a new shifter installed. The Harrop short shifter is around $300 plus installation. The RIPshift from GM motorsport is around $750 fitted. Many forum members are of the view that the RIPshift is superior, including some who had the Harrop and then changed to the RIPshift. Apparently this change transforms the feel of the M6.

Re suppliers in Melbourne, G&D and F1 both have their fans in the forums.

So there you have it - a summary of what I have gleaned from maybe 30 hours of trawling through this forum with the same agenda as you. I hope you have found this helpful.

Regards,
Jeff - South Melbourne


the original thread is here http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?33344-Suggestions-please-Bolt-on-mods-%28includes-the-jeff3205-post%29
all still relevant to nearly 9 years later

Garry

[bozodos]

I'd say some of it is a little out of date, like reccommending 'high flowing' stock cats, changing thermostats and fitting the Monaro CAI though.

[Crazykent]

http://s21.postimg.org/du40tnu6f/IMG_0206.jpg

[Crazykent]

Hey thanks RARASV8 thats good information.

[QldKev]

I agree, even 4.11's didn't make the gears anywhere near too short. Just revs a little high on the highway/freeway for my liking.

I'm also running an A4 and 4.11's, loving every minute of it. I think 3.7's would be great is you went a decent stally.

[zorro]

I reckon a pair of these should do it easily....

http://www.allstar.fiu.edu/aero/images/pweng05.jpg

[Crewstick]

I have just been through all of this with my VZ SS Crewman.

Fitted a cat back 3.5" single..... sounded better didn't seem to go much quicker.

Fitted Pacemaker 1 5/8 primary Tri-y's and some decent cats.......sounded better didn't seem to go much quicker.

Fitted 3.46 gears from 3.07 stock (A4)...... now we're getting somewhere ! Car just drove so much better, would go 3.7's if I was to do it again.

Fitted Oztrack mail-order tune and Duspeed OTR....... totally transformed the car, particularly in terms of off-idle driveability and throttle response.

Diff gears would be the first thing I would do if I had to start over.

JMHO

[Crazykent]

I have just been through all of this with my VZ SS Crewman.

Fitted a cat back 3.5" single..... sounded better didn't seem to go much quicker.

Fitted Pacemaker 1 5/8 primary Tri-y's and some decent cats.......sounded better didn't seem to go much quicker.

Fitted 3.46 gears from 3.07 stock (A4)...... now we're getting somewhere ! Car just drove so much better, would go 3.7's if I was to do it again.

Fitted Oztrack mail-order tune and Duspeed OTR....... totally transformed the car, particularly in terms of off-idle driveability and throttle response.

Diff gears would be the first thing I would do if I had to start over.

JMHO

Good post mate, makes me feel very comfortable about my decision. Thankyou.

[bigfoot]

I have just been through all of this with my VZ SS Crewman.

Fitted a cat back 3.5" single..... sounded better didn't seem to go much quicker.

Fitted Pacemaker 1 5/8 primary Tri-y's and some decent cats.......sounded better didn't seem to go much quicker.

Fitted 3.46 gears from 3.07 stock (A4)...... now we're getting somewhere ! Car just drove so much better, would go 3.7's if I was to do it again.

Fitted Oztrack mail-order tune and Duspeed OTR....... totally transformed the car, particularly in terms of off-idle driveability and throttle response.

Diff gears would be the first thing I would do if I had to start over.

JMHO

I agree with most of this post but in my opinion I would use a twin 2 1/2" exhaust and pick another tuner instead.

[cava454]

^^^what he said

[clubzls2]

Hey Crazykent I booked in to Chev's for the tune next week, I mentioned your power dilemma to them you should just give Gary a call...I've done every mod under the sun over my journey and if you're really power hungry just go straight for the cam package however you might also need a hi-stall if you go that way... If you just go the tune you will be craving more eventually. I had 337RWKW back in 2006 in my VZ clubby. It was blown and still not enough power really, if you want to be frank..

[Crazykent]

i decided to go with autotechnique chevs is just too far away from me especially if i had to go back again. i was going to reply with that here.

Yeh i dunno mate. Im too new to all of this. It's hard to be confident doing things when i've barely tasted real power anyhow.

Also if i started going crazy i would need better brakes/susp, im already thinking of new brakes with the mod's i've decided on now

[ATOMIC MALOO R8]

forget all the toy stuff if you want real power just go straight to a blower , no cam , no this no that , 350rwkw + straight up no mucking round no bull shit
at the end of the day a second hand blower wouldn't cost much more than all the other bolt on stuff
a friend down the road just picked a maggy 2300 black edition for $5,500 $1800 to fit and tune doing 580 rwhp on 12psi , plenty of the old harrop smaller stuff round now to

[clubzls2]

i decided to go with autotechnique chevs is just too far away from me especially if i had to go back again. i was going to reply with that here.

Yeh i dunno mate. Im too new to all of this. It's hard to be confident doing things when i've barely tasted real power anyhow.

Also if i started going crazy i would need better brakes/susp, im already thinking of new brakes with the mod's i've decided on now

So what have you decided to do ? Just take things as they come, no need to beef stuff up till you see it is required or it breaks. A tune or cam change is not a massive big deal on the scale of problematic mods anyhow if done correctly. Good luck

[Crazykent]

forget all the toy stuff if you want real power just go straight to a blower , no cam , no this no that , 350rwkw + straight up no mucking round no bull shit
at the end of the day a second hand blower wouldn't cost much more than all the other bolt on stuff
a friend down the road just picked a maggy 2300 black edition for $5,500 $1800 to fit and tune doing 580 rwhp on 12psi , plenty of the old harrop smaller stuff round now to

Well like i said im already looking at new brakes/susp for the mods im putting on now. Already had one fukup, got it lowered when the headers went on
the guy goes 'koni adj wont make it ride any better' so i put monroe gt gas on then i put 20's on an the guy goes 'oh yeh if u had of told me you
were putting 20's on i would of said put the konis on in the first place'. I did tell him i was putting 20's on lol.

So now i've spent money on shocks for nothing if i decide to upgrade now, thats another 900 then im looking at bigger rotors. Its not just about
making it go fast i have to be able to drive it around where i live, the roads are narrow, bumpy, theres sharp edges everywhere. It will become
undriveable around where i live, there isn't even enough room to slow down that much power lol, hence the reasoning for low ratio diff gears.

[Crazykent]

So what have you decided to do ? Just take things as they come, no need to beef stuff up till you see it is required or it breaks. A tune or cam change is not a massive big deal on the scale of problematic mods anyhow if done correctly. Good luck

3.7's and tune for torque, just waiting for a call on price its going in this week when theres a slot.

The guy said i can simply come back later if i decide i want more power an get a stage 1 cam and a retue for minima cost or they can cut one
for torque which is what i want. But yeh fuk the high stall after talking to the guy today
They're sh|t up hills and are harder on the juice, not gonna argue with anyone, its just something that doesn't interest
how i like to drive my car for fun.

[duke5700]

Whats a tune for torque....

[Crazykent]

i dont know buddy its just what i asked for im sure they know how to translate that request to some degree.

[white lie]

No problems with my stall up hills and fuel consumption didn't change one bit when it went in... everyone has an opinion I guess

[cava454]

Never heard of a tune for torque.

Properly matched converter will make ur car run loads better. You want your car to go faster yet don't wanna use more fuel?

[Crazykent]

No problems with my stall up hills and fuel consumption didn't change one bit when it went in... everyone has an opinion I guess

I knew someone was out there with a conflicting argument! lol. Well the tuner at autotechnique also has a converter in his car
and he was the one telling me about it.

[Crazykent]

Never heard of a tune for torque.

Properly matched converter will make ur car run loads better. You want your car to go faster yet don't wanna use more fuel?

Well, i said to the tuner, i want it tuned for torque, and he acknowledged me with an 'ok'. I dont know stuff all about stuff all when
it comes to this stuff. What kind of tunes are there if not for torque?

Well lower ratio gears than what i've got will add more power and improve economy, because of where i live, in the hills.
And so will a tune, therefore more power/better performance/improved fuel economy, is desirable to me, seems like good logic to stick with no?

[ittwgn]

in the end mate it's your car do what you like !!! many have told you do diff gears first and I agree !!! anyway all good enjoy!!??

[shucks]

Well, i said to the tuner, i want it tuned for torque, and he acknowledged me with an 'ok'. I dont know stuff all about stuff all when
it comes to this stuff. What kind of tunes are there if not for torque?

Well lower ratio gears than what i've got will add more power and improve economy, because of where i live, in the hills.
And so will a tune, therefore more power/better performance/improved fuel economy, is desirable to me, seems like good logic to stick with no?


A good tune optimises torque (and hence power) at all rpm/load points. It's not like an old car where you could go bigger chokes in the carby for more top end and smaller for more low end etc. No compromises with modern efi :love: That being said the VZ tune is already pretty good down low so you won't notice huge gains like people get on VT/VX, but it should be noticable.

Diff gears will make a big difference, better choice than a high stall if you live in the hills IMO.

[ATOMIC MALOO R8]

Whats a tune for torque....

new one on me to ??

[Angeldust]

sell it, buy a manual vz ls2 clubbie, keep it stock bar exhaust....


;)

[white lie]

Where's the fun in that?

[caj39]

I have done all and more upgrades to my M6 ute as it is a track only car now and I agree 100% with "white lie" with costs, the old saying is you get what you pay for and I strongly recommend you spend the extra dollars on a reputable tuner, just to let you know my car all up has spent some 15hrs on the dyno over the last two years to get it where it is now, every mod I do I get it fine tuned so I get the best possible results from my upgrades. Hope this helps, for more details give me a call on 0408 827310.