Castrol oil

[Ratsmow]

I know a lot of us use edge 10w60' myself included. But if you read the description for its application and then read the same for 5w40 and then see what viscosity Holden recommends isn't the 5w40 a better match for what we use our cars for 95 percent of the time. I know what Steve from mainlube recommends but I just thought I'd throw this out there for debate.

[Black VU SS ute]

I've been told to use a good mineral oil with a 20w50 weight for my 382 stroker I'm building, and to change the oil ever 5000ks.

[Ratsmow]

I've been told to use a good mineral oil with a 20w50 weight for my 382 stroker I'm building, and to change the oil ever 5000ks.

Do you know why they recommended that oil.

[Micks]

My take we have 7.5-10k ally engines for the small additional cost for synthetic oils why wouldn't you use it? Engines are @ least 3-4 times the cost they were back in the 70's.
Therefore use the best oil you can afford!!

[RIDE:42]

Castrol EDGE 25W-50 ttls1 for last 4 years

[***VX*R8***]

I've been told to use a good mineral oil with a 20w50 weight for my 382 stroker I'm building, and to change the oil ever 5000ks.
Is that just for the first few thousand kms or for good?

[Ratsmow]

My take we have 7.5-10k ally engines for the small additional cost for synthetic oils why wouldn't you use it? Engines are @ least 3-4 times the cost they were back in the 70's.
Therefore use the best oil you can afford!!

I agree, but I'm asking is 5w40 edge better for an ls1 than 10w60. If you read the jargon on each to me the 5w40 is a more suitable viscosity than 10 w60 for every day use. They are the same quality product with different viscosity.

[Woodchukka]

I searched and found something for you to have a read of.

http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?33447-So-you-would-like-to-know-how-to-choose-the-correct-oil (http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?33447-So-you-would-like-to-know-how-to-choose-the-correct-oil)

For the record I ran a 10w40 (Nulon Semi Synthetic) oil and now run a 10w60 (HPR 10) and noticed maybe a small change in engine noise which was that it ran a little quieter with the 10w60 oil. I have also ran the 10w60 oil during a winter and I can't pick a difference in noise. Now I log EOP (engine oil pressure) with EFI live I will be able to see differences in summer and winter (when it gets here) start up oil pressures if there is any. Just checked my last log and from 0 I was at 47.4 psi in under 1 second with a coolant temp of 30 DegC with the cold idle over 50 psi. Will be interesting to see what winter shows.

[Djbarnstar]

Way to thin. 5-40 that is

[Micks]

5-40 is generally recommended in stock L76's, L77's & LS3's. I prefer the Penrite Full Synth 10-70.

[DCV1NU]

While we're on the topic of oil mine is coming up for its due service, currently has Liqui Moly 5w30 in it and I don't mind it except after the recent heatwave ive noticed that there seems to be a louder engine ticking on cold starts(goes away after bout 5-10 sec). Ive used Edge 5w30 & 10w60 in the past for my previous car(cammed ssv) and I liked both but tried the edge 5w30 on the clubby @ the 3k service and the ls3 did not like it all, for what ive read 10w60 seems the way to go but I don't know whether to stick with Edge or try Royal Purple? anyone have any suggestions?

[Micks]

If your gunna push the km's between changes like to 10k etc Royal Purple may be ok.
If prefer changing every 5k more prudent to use Castrol or Penrite ;)

[XUV]

guess it comes down to money as spending 70-90 bucks a gallon on oil is a little insane on a daily,
I got 10w60 edge at 50 bucks a gallon , which at around 100 bucks for a full synthetic oil change, it ain't too bad.

Pity mainlube don't do a budget version of their 10w60 as it'd sell.

[Micks]

guess it comes down to money as spending 70-90 bucks a gallon on oil is a little insane on a daily,
I got 10w60 edge at 50 bucks a gallon , which at around 100 bucks for a full synthetic oil change, it ain't too bad.

Pity mainlube don't do a budget version of their 10w60 as it'd sell.

Mentioned the same in the M6 lube thread, I don't like leaving any oil in anywhere too long!!

[peter b]

Mineral versus synthetic debate comes down to a couple things. I have found certain ring types do not like synthetic oil and it will glaze the bore
There is nothing wrong with a good quality mineral oil however wouldnt leave it in there for 10k and is more like the other guy said change every 5k. As far as grade this is governed by clearances tighter clearances thinner the oil looser then thicker. Factory you have around 1.5 thou bearing clearance. My personal recommendation would be 5w30 such as dexos. I wouldn't run 10w60 as it is way too thick. Thick oil also makes your lifters noisey food for thought

[QldKev]

From my understanding
OEM prefer the lighter oils as it better for meeting emission tests and is better for fuel economy. So to me the 5w40 fits this.
For people who have modified their cars to extract more power and tent to use WOT and the full rev range you are better off with a heavier oil for those high stress times, hence the 10w60.

[Micks]

From my understanding
OEM prefer the lighter oils as it better for meeting emission tests and is better for fuel economy. So to me the 5w40 fits this.
For people who have modified their cars to extract more power and tent to use WOT and the full rev range you are better off with a heavier oil for those high stress times, hence the 10w60.
100% Kev & my take on it as well.

[Ratsmow]

I think your on the money too kev, my logic says this is the way to go and holden recommends 10w30. I put 10w60 in mine from the advice on this forum but I don't race mine or give it too much of a hard time and it's stock so I think the edge 5w40 will be fine in mine.

[Ratsmow]

Thanks for the link chukka. Read that post a while ago but couldn't find it when posting this thread.

[Woodchukka]

Thanks for the link chukka. Read that post a while ago but couldn't find it when posting this thread.
No dramas. Took me a few searched to turn it up but helping with information is what the forum is about.

[Blown 454 AWD]

Guys, run what you want, I don't give a flying!!

HOWEVER, my advice still stands, if you run 300kw at the flywheel then you should be running a 10w60 group IV.

As an experiment we changed Maritimo back from 10w60 to 20w50 and doubled the wear in the engines, that was a no brainer!!!

The thicker the film of oil the less the wear (I draw the line at 10w60 my self, no thicker)

As for noisy lifters, there is no logical rule here, thin can make them quite and thick can make them quite,

and for the record that doesn't make sense, as it's leaking oil from the small hydraulic ram (lifter) that makes it clack,

and I haven't seen a reasonable answer that allows lifters to bleed down, new and old, you can replace them and they can do the same!

You either have metal in your oil or you don't, only Filtergram can tell correctly how your motors running.

We have a Nissan GTR35 in Canada stays outside -25C with Mainlube right through, 10w60 starts and runs fine, if there was a problem this is where we would see it!

This has been covered 100 times

Cheers

Steve

[Woodchukka]

All in all. How many company's would offer an alternative to their oil if they thought people might find theirs a bit pricey? What Steve has suggested is what he believes is the next best product to his.

[BlownVR]

As an experiment we changed Maritimo back from 10w60 to 20w50 and doubled the wear in the engines, that was a no brainer!!!

Steve, do you know what oil temperature this occurred at? That is relevant for obvious reasons.

[Ratsmow]

Thanks for your comment Steve, didn't mean to fire you up. The thing I'm just trying to get my head around is with such fine tolerances in the machining process of motors these days is the thicker oil doing more harm than good in a stock ls1. You don't have to answer as I guess you've already covered it.

[Blown 454 AWD]

No drama guys, just get this on all forums after a while, people need reminding.

Maritimo run their engines on sea water for cooling (yes in alloy V12 Lanbo's as well) and run quite cold (which I don't agree with)

So the oil would NEVER get anywhere near 100C so game over there as well

Just things we have already tried and decided what we had was best.

Dynoing my Mainlube 175 10w60 against the 175 0w40 their was no difference with power in back to back pulls.

So fluid friction doesn't come into it with our oil.

Cheers

Steve

[Ratsmow]

Ok one more question. Why does edge 10w60 have such a high visco at 40 degrees (159) compared to say Elf excellium 10w50 at 40 degrees (115). If there both 10w why such a big difference.

[Blown 454 AWD]

Ok one more question. Why does edge 10w60 have such a high visco at 40 degrees (159) compared to say Elf excellium 10w50 at 40 degrees (115). If there both 10w why such a big difference.

You have a 10w50 and a 10w60, the 10w60 must be a greater viscosity to achieve the 60.

The V.I. (Viscosity Index) is the oils ability to hold viscosity and not thin as much under high temperatures,

when you drop a bucket of V.I. in the oil, the V.I additive is about SAE 1200 so it will thicken the oil a little at

40C, because it's a 60 it will have a slightly bigger base oil as well.

The 2 you've shown are SAE 30 and SAE 40 @ 40C (in SAE terms) you have quoted cSt@40C

Even though the lower Viscosity is 10w on both, one would assume they are are same when cold, not quite,

that's the SAE spec, in reality the 60 will be a little thicker than the 50 at lower temps.

The thing to look at here is 100C, that's where the 50 and 60 will differ, and when you say too thick,

Both have a freeze point of minus -36C (Group IV Base Oil) however, at 0C 20w50 is 2950 cSt and 10w60 is 3450 cSt so you can see the subtle difference.

Does get confusing around here if your not up to your armpits init.

SAE 10 is 32cSt@40C, 10w60@100C is around 25cSt, about SAE 8-9 much more protection and if it doesn't suck any power being thicker,

That's the problem? SAE can be quite misleading, best to work off cSt@40C or 100C


Cheers

Steve

[Micks]

Great explanation Steve! :goodjob:

[Ratsmow]

Thanks for the reply Steve, oils ain't oils.

[bozodos]

I sent away various samples of Castrol Edge 10w60 to oil testing companies, and they kept stuffing up or contaminating them so I gave up. Really would like to get an analysis done.


FWIW the local mechanic put Edge 25w50 on my car's first service when it was bolt on only, the ticking was very audible until the engine warmed up, of course when it was filled with 10w60 it went away.

Unfortunately without people getting Filtergrams or UOAs, it's all opinion and conjecture (apart from professional opinion like Steve's.) I've mentioned this on at least one other forum where there was an oil discussion.

I agree if there was a lower cost Mainlube 10w60 I'd buy it, as Edge is $80-90 when not on special, and most of the local parts stores no longer stock it in favour of Penrite.

[VTSSDUDE]

I wouldn't use anything thinner than 50 grade.

[Ratsmow]

Steve is it true that a new oil say 10w60 loses some of its viscosity dropping it down to like a 10w50 after a short time in the motor. I don't mean as it heats up but after say 500k of use.
When you test a used oil sample can you tell the viscosity of this oil. I guess what I'm asking is as a rough guide in a daily driver what would a 10w60 drop in viscosity after 7500 ks. I realise every sample will be different but just curious as to what the 10w60 would finish up at after it's been used for 7500ks.

[markone2]

I run Castrol 10/60 on all of my LSX cars........never ever blown an engine yet.....7250 rpm limiter included, with one 5.7 SV8 clocking over 1000 1/4 passes

Gets my vote :driving:

.

[Ratsmow]

So would you use it in a stock ls1 with tune only that doesn't get driven that hard.

[Woodchukka]

So would you use it in a stock ls1 with tune only that doesn't get driven that hard.
Change the exhaust with the oil and you will not be able to help yourself thus justifying the 10w60 :evil:.

[markone2]

So would you use it in a stock ls1 with tune only that doesn't get driven that hard.

Do you eat porridge for breakfast ?...or bacon. eggs .tomatoes, with a side helping of mushrooms ?........Your engine also likes a good feed
There lies your answer ;)
Cheap insurance for the life of your engine and its future welfare imho……..


.

[Ratsmow]

Yeh chukka it's got a 3inch di fillipo system, sounds friggin awesome.

[Ratsmow]

Great analogy there mark one, it's running 10w60 now but was considering changing it but I will leave it for now. Can get cool through the winter down hear in albury that was my only concern really.

[GR346]

Can get cool through the winter down hear in albury that was my only concern really.

Gets fresh here in Canberra too but the 10w60 is great in the R8 ;)
Wouldnt use anything else

When are you heading back up this way for a drive btw?

[Ratsmow]

Hey Gareth, how's the detailing going. I'm a gluten for punishment, just bought another black car. Sv6 for the wife, not a bad a rig. Not sure when I'll be up but if your into valiants chryslers on the Murray is on down here next weekend. Used to have a 6pack charger so I'll go and have a look, usually a real good event, think it's the biggest Chrysler show in the Southern Hemisphere.

[swingtan]

Oil, like many other consumables, needs to be chosen to suit what the car is being used for.

Personally, I don't like 10W60 as it doesn't lend its self well for how I generally use my car. Putting it simply, 10W60 is a thick oil (compared to ssay a 5W40). When cold, the oil flows less and pressures are higher until the oil has reached normal operating temps. If you only drive short distances, the oil may rarely reach optimal temps, so a thicker oil will always remain in its "thick" state. Obviously, if you're racing the engine, you've allowed the engine, all fluids and the whole drive train to come up to temp, so it's much less of an issue and the added protection from the thicker oil is warranted.

Continuing with the "thick oil" issues, the thicker the oil is, the worse it is at lubricating some components when cold. For example, the cylinder walls, piston skirts and even the lifter rollers all rely on oil splashed off the spinning crank shaft. If the oil is thick and sticky and the RPM is low, the amount of oil reaching the cylinder walls is significantly reduced. This is why I'm not a fan of leaving a car idling in the drive to "warm up" before driving. Oh, and don't forget that if you run a cooler thermostat, the oil takes longer to reach normal operating temp. To add to the confusion, cars up north that see higher average temps would be a better fit for a thicker oil. A quick test is to grab a cup of fresh oil and stick it in the fridge over night. Take it out in the morning and see how it flows at 4'C.

There's lots of other factors to consider, bearing clearances, peak oil pressures, driving style and durations, age of the engine and amounts of wear. No one answer fits all cases. I've tried a number of different viscosities over the years and am currently running a 10W40, which I think is a tad thin for my use. I normally run a 15W50 semi-synthetic and will be moving back to that as it is what seems to work best (doing my own debris checks at oil changes). I've run full synthetic 10W60 and while it was OK, I found it increased lifter noise and the cost difference over the 15W50 was quite high.

I'm not against 10W60, if your engine requires that viscosity then it's the right one to use. Most cars probably don't need it and some should run a thinner grade, it's all "horses for courses". I've used Penzoil Racing 50 in one motor, but it was for a specific purpose and was given a good 30min of warm up before being really "driven".

[Ratsmow]

Alot of what you say swingtan makes logical sense to me. I think the key is like you say what conditions the motor is usually used under. My car might get out twice a month doing basically highway miles ( no traffic or lights ). I'll give it a squirt every now and then to feel the wave of torque through the twisties but other than that it gets treated pretty easy.

You hear some say that most wear is at start up, and others say at normal operating temp, both are probably correct but for me start up is probably the one. I don't Cain my car and it's stock except exhaust and tune so I think a 10w 50 quality oil would be the best of both worlds for my engine. ( hope Steve doesn't read this.)

[Drizt]

Oil, like many other consumables, needs to be chosen to suit what the car is being used for.

Personally, I don't like 10W60 as it doesn't lend its self well for how I generally use my car. Putting it simply, 10W60 is a thick oil (compared to ssay a 5W40). When cold, the oil flows less and pressures are higher until the oil has reached normal operating temps. If you only drive short distances, the oil may rarely reach optimal temps, so a thicker oil will always remain in its "thick" state. Obviously, if you're racing the engine, you've allowed the engine, all fluids and the whole drive train to come up to temp, so it's much less of an issue and the added protection from the thicker oil is warranted.

Continuing with the "thick oil" issues, the thicker the oil is, the worse it is at lubricating some components when cold. For example, the cylinder walls, piston skirts and even the lifter rollers all rely on oil splashed off the spinning crank shaft. If the oil is thick and sticky and the RPM is low, the amount of oil reaching the cylinder walls is significantly reduced. This is why I'm not a fan of leaving a car idling in the drive to "warm up" before driving. Oh, and don't forget that if you run a cooler thermostat, the oil takes longer to reach normal operating temp. To add to the confusion, cars up north that see higher average temps would be a better fit for a thicker oil. A quick test is to grab a cup of fresh oil and stick it in the fridge over night. Take it out in the morning and see how it flows at 4'C.

There's lots of other factors to consider, bearing clearances, peak oil pressures, driving style and durations, age of the engine and amounts of wear. No one answer fits all cases. I've tried a number of different viscosities over the years and am currently running a 10W40, which I think is a tad thin for my use. I normally run a 15W50 semi-synthetic and will be moving back to that as it is what seems to work best (doing my own debris checks at oil changes). I've run full synthetic 10W60 and while it was OK, I found it increased lifter noise and the cost difference over the 15W50 was quite high.

I'm not against 10W60, if your engine requires that viscosity then it's the right one to use. Most cars probably don't need it and some should run a thinner grade, it's all "horses for courses". I've used Penzoil Racing 50 in one motor, but it was for a specific purpose and was given a good 30min of warm up before being really "driven".

If you don't mind me asking, which brand and weight do you recommend?



I thought the 10w part was indicative of start up viscosity and the 60 the running temperature viscosity (I know Steve tried to explain it in a post above but it went over my head a little).

[swingtan]

Well.... yes, the 10W indicates it "flows like" a 10 weight oil and the 60 indicates it protects like a 60 weight oil.

However the overall oil makeup is different between a 10W60 full synthetic and say a 15W50 semi-synthetic. Personally I like the semi-synthetic due to cost and protection level for the driving I do. If you drive according to the oil you have, there can be no detriment to running something like 10W60, for me it just doesn't quite fit.

For the record, I normally run Martini Racing Grand Prix 50 (15W50) but currently have Nulon 10W40 in as I was trying the thinner oil to see how the lifters behaved. I'll be going back to the Martini next oil change.

[IJ.]

"W" winter temps, a 10W is different to a 10 being flowed/measured at 40c instead of 100c.

[Micks]

Well.... yes, the 10W indicates it "flows like" a 10 weight oil and the 60 indicates it protects like a 60 weight oil.

However the overall oil makeup is different between a 10W60 full synthetic and say a 15W50 semi-synthetic. Personally I like the semi-synthetic due to cost and protection level for the driving I do. If you drive according to the oil you have, there can be no detriment to running something like 10W60, for me it just doesn't quite fit.

For the record, I normally run Martini Racing Grand Prix 50 (15W50) but currently have Nulon 10W40 in as I was trying the thinner oil to see how the lifters behaved. I'll be going back to the Martini next oil change.

How do you find the Martini for lifter noise on your L76 Simon?

[markone2]

I've been told to use a good mineral oil with a 20w50 weight for my 382 stroker I'm building, and to change the oil ever 5000ks.

I know who told you that :nyuk:

[swingtan]

How do you find the Martini for lifter noise on your L76 Simon?

Very good. The Nulon 10W40 is not bad either, but it does make the motor sound a little more noisy. Actually, I just remembered that I log oil pressure on most runs, so....



Nulon 10W40:

ECT=20'C Engine RPM=1000 Oil Pressure= 45PSI (This was a cold start from this afternoon), at 2700 RPM the pressure was 56.7PSI
after 20min driving in Melbourne traffic
ECT=95'C Engine RPM=775 Oil Pressure=32PSI. At 2700 RPM, the pressure was 51PSI.

On Tuesday, it was 31'C here and after 40 minutes of driving, the idle pressure was the same as above with the ECT varying between 95'C and 100'C.
after 20min driving in Melbourne traffic 63.8PSI at 5800 RPM.



Martini 15W50:

ECT=21'C Engine RPM=1000 Oil Pressure= 45.8PSI (This was a cold start from Feb 1st 2013), at 2700 RPM the pressure was 56.3PSI
after 30min driving in Melbourne traffic
ECT=93'C Engine RPM=775 Oil Pressure=34.2PSI. At 2700 RPM, the pressure was 52.2PSI.

Peak warm oil pressure on that run was 63.8PSI at 5900 RPM.





So overall, the pressures between the two oils are not much different. However, as already mentioned, there are differences between the Full synthetic Nulon and the semi-synthetic Martini. The L76 seems to like the semi-synth. If the engine behaved the same on the Nulon, I'd much prefer it as the oil pressure is the same, but the oil is rated as a lighter oil. This, in theory, should result in more power / economy.

[Micks]

Those press. are very good! Mine increased quite a bit after I installed the secondary bypass plug as your thread. :goodjob:

[Ratsmow]

So I've been doing a bit more reading on various oil company web sites and have this question. Is it fair to assume the higher the (base number) of the oil the in the spec sheet the better the quality of oil. Is this an important factor when selecting a quality oil.

[swingtan]

Basically....

The number printed on the pack simply gives the minimum specs of the oil when new. You used to be able to get recycled oil from the super market that was rated as meeting all the manufacturers specs. I only used it to paint a sleeper wall once.....

The low number is an indication of how the oil flows when it's cold. The high number is an indication of how well the oil protects when hot. Both are a reference to when single weight oil was the only option. The lower the first number and the higher the second number, the better the oil should be. IE. you want an oil that flows like water when cold and protects like grease when hot, this is exactly how oil does NOT behave.

Mineral oils used dispersant's to stop the paraffins from thickening the oil when cold. Synthetics use special polymers that "ball up" when cold to help flow, but unravel to long chains when hot to provide excellent protection.

So the numbers don't really indicate the "quality" of the oil, just the stated viscosities. They are an important factor though and really, you want the thinest oil that will maintain a film of oil between bearing surfaces. Go too think and you loose power in trying to pump the thicker oil and must be a lot more careful with the warm up cycle. As I've indicated above, the 10W40 does quite well with the pressures, but is a little noisy. So I'll go the 15W50 semi-synth.

[Ratsmow]

Yeah I got all that. You must have misunderstood what I was referring to. On the spec sheet oc the oils along with viscocities and cranking pressures and all that they also refer to a base number eg 8.5 or 11.2. This seems to be the range of a decent oil. This number is the oils ability to suspend contaminants and resist corrosive products produced in the combustion process, got that from Wikipedia. The higher the number the better the oils ability to perform these tasks.

[Drizt]

I would have thought 15w 50 would be worse for short trips than 10w 60?

[Ratsmow]

I don't think either would really be any good for short trips. From what Steve from main lube said, a 10w60 is not necessarily the same as a 10w50 at the 10w part of the oil. The 10w60 would probably be more resistant to flow than the 10w50 at cold start up.
After using a 10w50 and then going to a10w60 I can confidently say my Monaro uses a bit more fuel on the heavier oil. About 1 litre per hundred more.

[Drizt]

For someone who does lots of small trips 5-10 mins of suburb driving..... But also likes to give the car plenty of herbs when given the chance ....

Which oil would you recommend... rate them from most suitable to least suitable if you like :)

Castrol Edge 5w-40
Castrol Edge 10w-60

http://castroledge.com.au/oils/5w-40-sn
http://castroledge.com.au/oils/10w-60-sn (http://castroledge.com.au/oils/10w-60-sn])

Penrite Premium 10 Tenths 5w-60
Penrite Racing 10 Tenths 10W-40
Penrite HPR 5 5W-40
Penrite HPR 10 10W-50

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.php?id_categ=1&id_brand=4&id_products=281 (http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.php?id_categ=1&id_brand=4&id_products=281])
http://www.penriteoil.com.au/engineoils-products.php?id_categ=1&id_products=277
http://www.penriteoil.com.au/engineoils-products.php?id_categ=1&id_products=1
http://www.penriteoil.com.au/engineoils-products.php?id_categ=1&id_products=2



The penrite 5w-60 sounds interesting.

[bush_basha]

Hey guys thought I would just stick this in this thread. How long will an open bottle of oil last V's a sealed bottle? The ve takes about 8 litres so then there's 2l left from 10, can that be reused say 18months down the track or not? Cheers

[Wonky]

I may be ignorant but I'd think the remaining oil in a bottle with the lid on properly should last as well as new oil in a sealed bottle. Unlike for example brake fluid it won't absorb moisture from the air.

[offshore]

The oil they put in my LSA is Castrol Edge Pro TWS 10W/60

[Blown 454 AWD]

Yeah I got all that. You must have misunderstood what I was referring to. On the spec sheet oc the oils along with viscocities and cranking pressures and all that they also refer to a base number eg 8.5 or 11.2. This seems to be the range of a decent oil. This number is the oils ability to suspend contaminants and resist corrosive products produced in the combustion process, got that from Wikipedia. The higher the number the better the oils ability to perform these tasks.

TBN & TAN?

Total Base Number refers to the alkalinity reserve to be able to stop the acid build up (by product from combustion) dissolving your engine

Total Acid Number is the ph the acid has built to (which shouldn't be there if there's plenty of TBN left to combat it, simples!


As for viscosities?

SAE is bullshit if you are trying to understand viscosities,

SAE 50 engine oil is ISO 220 cSt@40C
SAE90 Gear oil is ISO 220 cSt@40C

So SAE doesn't make sense, it's only an indication of a multi-grade, you could never work it out correctly from SAE.



3270


It's not really big enough (picture) but you can see the difference between engine and gear oil viscosities.

Cheers

Steve

[Tingle92]

Not using Edge10W60 again! It made my VZ L76 run really high end hot! (too thick-too much friction) I thought it was suppose to keep oil temps low! Yes I have an Oil Temp gauge. Ive heard mineral oils are good at absorbing heat, synthetics don't!

[macca_779]

Not using Edge10W60 again! It made my VZ L76 run really high end hot! (too thick-too much friction) I thought it was suppose to keep oil temps low! Yes I have an Oil Temp gauge. Ive heard mineral oils are good at absorbing heat, synthetics don't!

Considering there have been heaps of us running it for years with great success I’d say you have other issues. How hot are we talking here?

[Red CV8 R]

Considering there have been heaps of us running it for years with great success I’d say you have other issues. How hot are we talking here?

Surely this has to be the case, Edge is one of the most popular oils around. Personally, I would want to be sure that I know that the oil choice is the issue and not something else.

[BLACK 346]

Not using Edge10W60 again! It made my VZ L76 run really high end hot! (too thick-too much friction) I thought it was suppose to keep oil temps low! Yes I have an Oil Temp gauge. Ive heard mineral oils are good at absorbing heat, synthetics don't!

You posted these claims word for word ie cut and paste in the other Castrol thread, how about you answer peoples questions this time instead of ignoring them?

WTF is high end hot?

[whitels1ss]

You posted these claims word for word ie cut and paste in the other Castrol thread,
how about you answer peoples questions this time instead of ignoring them?

Yeah, that would be helpful. :cheers: