Time to start plotting for a new diff.......

[FrangaFry]

Howdy folks, as usual looking for some thoughts and advice, this time, on diff options ..................

Yep, I know this has been done to death in a million different threads, but anyway here goes ..........

VYSSII Wagon A4 S/C (some other goods bits as well); Had the diff rebuilt near on 2 years ago now (about 40 odd 000ks) and I really don't like the sounds it's starting to make (clunks like hell on kick down soft or hard and does similar coming on/off accelerator). Had it up on the hoist at Chev's also discovered tail shaft needed rebuilding - got it sorted (tail shaft) and the clunk sort of softened for a bit (maybe just in my head.......). Anyway, still clunking (can live with it though... cars is old and got power...) but have noticed the last couple of days there is a slight whine now coming from the rear of the car (and it felt - sounds silly maybe - a little rougher on the road than normal .......... hard to describe, not an audible noise just a different sort of low vibration at cruising speed on freeway - I spose that could be rear wheel bearings ........... like I need that too at the moment ........... *sigh*).

Anyway, I have been thinking Truetrac for a while now (yeah, I know there is the potential for some clunks with these as well) and the idea of doing it once and never having to do it again appeals to me .............

So, my understanding (big ball park here) of a complete rebuild, with Truetrac + New gears etc is around the 2+k mark (have seem some complete units for around $1,900 (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HOLDEN-COMMODORE-VT-VY-VZ-3-07-3-46-3-73-3-91-EATON-TRUETRAC-DIFF-/321223689128)

Given I am on pretty shaky ground with the minister of war and finance (she's "Soooooooooooooo OVER that BLOODY car!!!!!!!!" .......... :toetap:) especially with a recent tail shaft rebuild and also an alternator fail....... :doh: , I am thinking that I am going to have to 'Go Stealth' to get the job done ...............:eek:

So, given I can't rush out tomorrow and get one (ummmmm, that would be akin to suicide at this point :kill:) i'm seeking peoples thoughts on whether to

1. Save some 'secret' pennies over time and do an off the shelf jobbie - swap over, as the link above
2. Save some 'secret' pennies over time and get someone to re build it (they source parts).
3. Start collecting bits and pieces over time and then give it to someone to build.

Regardless, I can't do it straight away as the wife is focused on an OS holiday this year and NOTHING else matters ............ which is fine, I get that ................... I think I might have been like that with my Blower install........

Thanks for letting me waste 5 minutes of your time - It just feels good to get it out ............................ every time I raise the issue of my car with the wife, family or friends, it's all .............. "Ooooooh get rid of it, it's too old, costs too much money .......... won't be able to get parts now Holden are closing .............." Pfffft, they just DON'T GET IT EH FELLAS!!

You know, I was just re reading the above before posting, and god damn this shit is therapeutic .........................

[bush_basha]

Before you go rushing out and buying new stuff, get it all checked over. Those rubber donuts cause clunks and so do the drive shaft. I know the tail shaft is new and probably the donuts but can't help to go over it, a lot cheaper too, lol. Also maybe just get the diff a check over a competent mechanic should be able to tell if there is two much backlash and what not.

[FrangaFry]

Before you go rushing out and buying new stuff, get it all checked over. Those rubber donuts cause clunks and so do the drive shaft. I know the tail shaft is new and probably the donuts but can't help to go over it, a lot cheaper too, lol. Also maybe just get the diff a check over a competent mechanic should be able to tell if there is two much backlash and what not.

Cheers basha; Yeah, donuts and rubber bits all good, Chev gave it all a good look over, shafts are recently replaced so also all good there too. Haven't chatted with Chev since tail shaft was sorted though (as I have been a pain in his arse recently.......), but there is a heap of lash (seems to me anyway) and a loud clunk from the diff when shafts or tail shaft are moved turned. I'll chat to him about options as soon as he forgets what a PIA I can be (Hmmmm, might take a while ..................... and a world war maybe ...... LOL)

The clunk itself is not really what will get to me (I can live with it, as I know there's a heap of power being pushed through it, and to be honest, although I don't do burnouts and the like, I do enjoy a 'good hard' launch when the need arises .......... ) it's gunna be the whine AND the clunk that will get to me ....... I'm also not a fan of the idea of spending more money on a reco'd diff and another 20 or 40k down the road have the same issue when for a bit more I can sort it and hopefully not look back.

But, you never know, It could turn out that a re shim or something could sort it (have no idea what the cost would be or even if it is an option)

[Black VU SS ute]

check the wheel bearings in the rear they cause a whirring sound and feels harsh. does the noise change turning left or right.

[FrangaFry]

Cheers, how hard is it to replace these yourself ( fronts are pretty straight forward as they are a sealed unit, but rears need packing ?).

I'll have a poke around the how to sections for info.

Thanks

[bush_basha]

I'm not diff expert but if it's clunking and whining, it might just need another crush washer, I read somewhere sometimes with big power they can actually crush in a little more after a while and then which would most likely cause the symptoms you describe. As it's not getting the correct pattern on the gears. But that's a sooner rather than later job as it could cause havoc with everything inside.

Wheel bearings are possibly also a sealed unit on the rear?
Actually a quick search it looks like it's just bearing. Undo stuff remove old bearings and grease, replace all new stuff and good as gold, lol. Shouldn't be too hard if your mechanically knowledgeable. Just assess the job before you start pulling it all apart. Lol

[amckiwi]

Can you send her on OS holiday by herself and you spend cash on the car?

Stu

[Toddler78]

Might also be the CV's on the drive shafts on the way out. Personally Id drive it till it breaks, then you know what the problem was. Or take it to a diff builder, Whilst I don't doubt Chevs abilities as a Mechanic, its the same as going to a GP for a specialist problem. Also if your going to get it done, personally I would either source the parts and get a diff builder to put it all together or employ a diff builder to build one to spec, rather then buy one off the shelf online, at least you know what you are getting and the quality of the build. - its expensive now, going to get a whole lot more expensive if you have to do it a second time.

[Woodchukka]

I'm not diff expert but if it's clunking and whining, it might just need another crush washer, I read somewhere sometimes with big power they can actually crush in a little more after a while and then which would most likely cause the symptoms you describe. As it's not getting the correct pattern on the gears. But that's a sooner rather than later job as it could cause havoc with everything inside.

Wheel bearings are possibly also a sealed unit on the rear?
Actually a quick search it looks like it's just bearing. Undo stuff remove old bearings and grease, replace all new stuff and good as gold, lol. Shouldn't be too hard if your mechanically knowledgeable. Just assess the job before you start pulling it all apart. Lol
Pretty sure I read in one of IJ's posts he put the crush washer in then removed it and made a custom length spacer to suit to prevent it getting crushed further. That is of course if you eventually go the rebuild way.

[feistl]

Actually a quick search it looks like it's just bearing. Undo stuff remove old bearings and grease, replace all new stuff and good as gold, lol. Shouldn't be too hard if your mechanically knowledgeable. Just assess the job before you start pulling it all apart. Lol

Thats what i thought when i decided to change mine.... I can assure you it aint :P. Firstly you'll need a big press to get em in/out, and possibly the use of a blow torch/freezer method. Changing the rear wheel bearings isnt really a "do it yourself" job unless you've got all the right tools. (Its not just a matter of having a press either, you need one that is designed in such a way that you can get the trailing arm in the correct position).


Might also be the CV's on the drive shafts on the way out. Personally Id drive it till it breaks, then you know what the problem was.

yes and Yes. My guess would be a faulty drive shaft (AKA Half shaft). They are cheap to replace ($50ea from a wrecker) and should be the first thing you change.

[FrangaFry]

Can you send her on OS holiday by herself and you spend cash on the car?

Stu

:lmao: ......... that's what I did last year to get my cam and stally .............

[Micks]

:lmao: ......... that's what I did last year to get my cam and stally .............

Less arguments huh! :lol:

[FrangaFry]

Thats what i thought when i decided to change mine.... I can assure you it aint :P. Firstly you'll need a big press to get em in/out, and possibly the use of a blow torch/freezer method. Changing the rear wheel bearings isnt really a "do it yourself" job unless you've got all the right tools. (Its not just a matter of having a press either, you need one that is designed in such a way that you can get the trailing arm in the correct position).



yes and Yes. My guess would be a faulty drive shaft (AKA Half shaft). They are cheap to replace ($50ea from a wrecker) and should be the first thing you change.

Sweet, cheers feistl, I thought as much (not a 'do it yourself' job .... ). In regards to the half shafts, they are both pretty new (replaced a couple of months ago with genuine OEM spanka's) so no detectable movement in them.

Will get it round to Chev's again as soon as I can for a look; To be honest, when I saw him last, it was with a view to fiddle the shift points, but we discovered the tail shaft was rooted and changed focus; Although the diff was noisy, we were working on the assumption that the rebuilt tail shaft (center bearing, new rear donut and also bearing for rear of tranny) would soften the noise (which it seemed to do on the test drive after the replacement). As a result, we didn't really talk diff ............. it's since then it seems to be getting more pronounced and I noticed the 'vibration/low level grind...'.

Damn, all at once .............. Tail Shaft, Alternator and possibly diff and/or bearings ............. *sigh* ............... I can see a few 'tense' discussions taking place at home in the coming weeks ....................

[Micks]

Yep even changing Wheel Bearings on the later solid axle diffs are a pita cause the ruddy abs rings cast ally can't get em off without rootin them! Not literally though :eek:

[bush_basha]

Pretty sure I read in one of IJ's posts he put the crush washer in then removed it and made a custom length spacer to suit to prevent it getting crushed further. That is of course if you eventually go the rebuild way.

Yep that's where I read it.

[offshore]

True track is the way to go once you have that its no hassles after but you don't really need it for a daily driver if you are trying to save money and can re build standard diff on the cheap. True track is good though it changes the handling a bit to so to get the best benefit you need suspension work as well. Thats what ive found with mine shows up the suspension limits more now.

[markone2]

Don't know.:eek:.. I bash out repeated 1.41 sixty fts on a regualar basis...all via 3.9 LSD Gears built by Harts transmissions ..Not a hell of lot of true tracks or locked diffs on a genuine street registered Commodores pulling those numbers .imho


.

[offshore]

Don't know.:eek:.. I bash out repeated 1.41 sixty fts on a regualar basis...all via 3.9 LSD Gears built by Harts transmissions ..Not a hell of lot of true tracks or locked diffs on a genuine street registered Commodores pulling those numbers .imho


.

Yea except the true tract would require less maintenance I guess. Stuffed If I know im not a drag race expert. And maybe in late May some one could give me a hand in Sydney as I think ill go for my first drag time around then.

[FrangaFry]

True track is the way to go once you have that its no hassles after but you don't really need it for a daily driver if you are trying to save money and can re build standard diff on the cheap. True track is good though it changes the handling a bit to so to get the best benefit you need suspension work as well. Thats what ive found with mine shows up the suspension limits more now.

If anyone is interested ......... I rek'n i've decided to go Trutrac (got me some half decent shocks and sway bars, so hopefully not too radical a difference) so i'm currently madly 'wheeling and dealing" and scratching some funds together (the o'l secret stash is slooooowwwwwwly getting some momentum) ............... BUT, i think it gets worse, my tranny is giving me the SH1TS as well now - mad/harsh/neck whippy 1st->2nd change (great with a clunky diff.....) and some shitty flaring and slipping going on too; Although it is still drivable ................. the OCD in me is starting to get a grip when ever I drive it :eyes: ......... (it's p1ssing me off sooooo much that I am driving the wife's car 2 or 3 days a week instead of my beloved wagon.........)

Sad huh............ (yeah, yeah, save your pity...... *wink*)

So, it's got me thinking ........ at 'some' point the A4 is going to need a rebuild ........... so, do I rebuild it again :kill: or consider 'other' options ..... i'm currently thinking 'what if' on a manual conversion :confused:

I'm now at 'that' point I think ..................... and to add to the mix, soon my 190k S/C Ls1 will need some attention ....... t'is an interesting path we choose to take when the 'genie' is first released..... sooooooo consuming/disappointing/gratifying/rushfull/painful/emotional/addictive/pleasant/expensive ............... man, who would have thought it to be such an 'experience' and such a journey ....... (definitely NOT whinging here by the way..... just 'expressing' and doing some of the 'enjoying' bit *wink*)

:goodjob:

[Black VU SS ute]

I did a rear wheel bearing in while in the car. it is a hard job, and bent 10mm metal plate pulling the bearing out and in, But I did get it.