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v8commodore
09-08-2014, 04:27 PM
hey i have a vx ss 2001 110k just did timing cover gasket as last shop looks like they just used old gasket was fine for a while and started to seep out sides just got that fixed. now at back before last sump bolt right on the gasket there is a very small seep starting up i did clean it go for a drive used torch and mirror was no oil front or back of the seep removed the plastic part near box and engine used mirror in there was all dry so pretty sure its def not rear seal just gasket. Questions is to clean it with brake cleaner,petrol or Degreaser. Was gona try some ultra blue permatex to see how it goes. spent fair bit of time doing lot of stuff in this area last thing want to do is pull sump off to do the gasket for the seep? anyone used ultra blue or other to fix something like this and how is it with pressure there?

IJ.
09-08-2014, 04:56 PM
There's no "Pressure" as such unless your PCV is blocked, there is the seam where the rear cover meets the block that needs a smear of RTV to help the sump gasket seal, not sure how you'll go without dropping the sump as you're just splooging RTV onto an Oily surface so it's not going to "bond" (RTV=Room Temperature Vulcanising, so needs spotless surfaces to work)

v8commodore
09-08-2014, 05:02 PM
yeh man its right on the seam its leaking. was told to undo a few bolts and try lower it a bit and push some in idk never done sump before fk drams im having lately with a 110k car lol

IJ.
09-08-2014, 05:17 PM
yeh man its right on the seam its leaking. was told to undo a few bolts and try lower it a bit and push some in idk never done sump before fk drams im having lately with a 110k car lol

Next "issue" with doing it this way is that you'll have to loosen all the bolts to get it to drop at all, once done it's important with an LS1 that the Sump is aligned properly which means you'll have to pull it back against the bellhousing with the bolts just snug then torque the sump bolts to spec or it'll just leak somewhere else...

Micks
09-08-2014, 05:46 PM
Next "issue" with doing it this way is that you'll have to loosen all the bolts to get it to drop at all, once done it's important with an LS1 that the Sump is aligned properly which means you'll have to pull it back against the bellhousing with the bolts just snug then torque the sump bolts to spec or it'll just leak somewhere else...
Absolutely spot on IJ, the sump on an LS motor is an integral component for the structural strength of the block must be aligned correctly! There was a documentary recently on TV talking of the exact topic.

v8commodore
10-08-2014, 04:38 PM
hey i have a vx ss commodore cammed 315rwkw it has 111k on it atm i have been running castrol edge 10-60 for the last 5 years np at all. i was looking at either penrite hpr 30 or 15 to see if it helps i have a very small seep oil with the engine and its only small. was told by using mineral oil might have a chance to stop it before i fork out 1000.00 to pull engine out etc to replace the gasket

whitels1ss
10-08-2014, 04:47 PM
hey i have a vx ss commodore cammed 315rwkw it has 111k on it atm i have been running castrol edge 10-60 for the last 5 years np at all. i was looking at either penrite hpr 30 or 15 to see if it helps i have a very small seep oil with the engine and its only small. was told by using mineral oil might have a chance to stop it before i fork out 1000.00 to pull engine out etc to replace the gasket

I have just merged this thread with your other one on the same thing because we don't need 2 threads about one small oil leak ;)

whitels1ss
10-08-2014, 08:03 PM
Might be worthwhile having a look at the gear that Sponsor "Mainlube" were talking about in post number 30

in the thread linked below or sending them a message asking their advice.

http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?167596-an-oil-leak-not-covered-under-warranty&p=2120294#post2120294

Mainlube seem to have a great deal of respect for quality products & advice from members on the forum.;)

Micks
10-08-2014, 08:09 PM
hey i have a vx ss commodore cammed 315rwkw it has 111k on it atm i have been running castrol edge 10-60 for the last 5 years np at all. i was looking at either penrite hpr 30 or 15 to see if it helps i have a very small seep oil with the engine and its only small. was told by using mineral oil might have a chance to stop it before i fork out 1000.00 to pull engine out etc to replace the gasket
Would think twice of using mineral oils could end up like vegemite in your motor!

v8commodore
10-08-2014, 08:59 PM
ty whitels1ss i give that a good read. few guys told me to drop that side of sump down just worried still when seal breaks it could make it worse in other areas. yeh white gasket and seals could be hard from me not driving it all time ty

v8commodore
10-08-2014, 09:30 PM
Mainlube 260 seal saver something like this would prob work as i dont drive car much atm and gaskets could be starting to get hard. in australia what can i try to use like oil additive that can soften hard seals gaskets back up? i know like nulon stop leak stuff like that does same sort of thing but havent been big fan on stop leak stuff

whitels1ss
10-08-2014, 09:55 PM
Mainlube 260 seal saver something like this would prob work as i dont drive car much atm and gaskets could be starting to get hard. in australia what can i try to use like oil additive that can soften hard seals gaskets back up? i know like nulon stop leak stuff like that does same sort of thing but havent been big fan on stop leak stuff

Mate, I would phone or email Mainlube & ask them directly;)