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View Full Version : VY SV8 200,000km - Bits to fix! Help!



Big_Valven
25-08-2014, 11:13 PM
Hi guys, I have been lurking since the good old days but don't seem to find as much time for the forums as I used to.

I've got a VY SV8 which has had it's fair share of mods inside and out. I bought it at a less-than-fresh 160,000km and have bumped it to 200,000 in the last 2 years. Engine-wise I picked it as a reasonably good car and to that end it hasn't let me down. The OTR, tune and full exhaust system helps with fun, as did the C5 HSV brake retro-fit.

I am keen at maintaining the car myself but lately feel I have been taking one step forwards and two steps back!

1. The front end has had Nolathane lower bushes, swaybar links and radius rod bushes fitted at 170,000 which are a bit firm for my liking but working well nonetheless. I replaced my struts at 190,000 with KYB Excel Gas along with new Mackay rubber strut top bushes, bearings and tie rod ends. Now I get a clunk from the front right when hitting bumps with even a small degree of left hand lock, and the strut tops creak when going over speed bumps etc - the typical rubber creaking on metal sound. I've inspected several times and can't find anything loose - especially strut bolts, caliper bolts and swaybar links.

2. I recently replaced my power steering fluid - sucked the reservoir out with a syringe, added new fluid, and ran lock-to-lock a few times with the engine running to circulate. Now the power steering shudders. It is so common with VYs I shouldn't be surprised, but it didn't used to.

3. While replacing the exhaust (the last cat-back was rusty, and broke in a few places thanks to a steep driveway. The new one sits even lower - scrapes even worse - yay!) I noticed the tailshaft centre bearing rubber badly cracked. I duly installed a new bearing, hoping it would take care of a tiny vibration at 110km/h. Now it vibrates heinously - I mean ridiculously - at 60 - 80km/h. I marked the spline when I took the tailshaft apart, but unfortunately didn't mark the position it bolted to the trans and diff - it's only got three bolts at each end so I (probably wrongly) assumed it didn't matter. At this rate, it's only a matter of time before I stuff a seal or bearing in the trans or diff.

4. I re-finished a set of 18" HBD J series alloys for the car. The car has NEVER driven smoothly on the highway, with the standard 17s and these wheels. I spun them up on my lathe (very slow speed) to check roundness when I was working on them, and found the best one to be within 0.5mm of round, and the worst to have a flat spot of approximately 1.5mm on the inside edge for about 5% of it's circumference. Running Toyo Teo Plus 235/45 18s. The balance was done at the start of the year and I'm about to try it yet again, as I honestly believe I have eliminated anything else which can cause wheel wobble - new shocks and bushes all round, new tie rod ends, exceptional wheel alignment, the lot. Still it wobbles.

With those issues and having to re-visit the exhaust to stop the tips rubbing on the bumper + trying to get it to sit high enough to get into my garage, machining the brake rotors to stop ridiculous amounts of brake shudder, trying to stop the door and window rubbers creaking (not to mention the glue that holds the roof turret on creaking over bumps - WTF???) and the myriad of interior rattles and noises, the car is starting to feel like a dog. All I want to do is enjoy it until I can afford something new and leave the experience of a high-km car well and truly behind me.

Can anyone help with those points? :)

BLACK 346
26-08-2014, 07:04 AM
With the Strut top rubbers, I had a Pedders one fail after about 2k. Was advised that OEM is the way to go with these. Went back to Holden items and have not had a problem since. Same symptoms as you, creaking and clunking from front right.

amckiwi
26-08-2014, 09:05 AM
Maybe a louder stereo?

Hi guys, I have been lurking since the good old days but don't seem to find as much time for the forums as I used to.

I've got a VY SV8 which has had it's fair share of mods inside and out. I bought it at a less-than-fresh 160,000km and have bumped it to 200,000 in the last 2 years. Engine-wise I picked it as a reasonably good car and to that end it hasn't let me down. The OTR, tune and full exhaust system helps with fun, as did the C5 HSV brake retro-fit.

I am keen at maintaining the car myself but lately feel I have been taking one step forwards and two steps back!

1. The front end has had Nolathane lower bushes, swaybar links and radius rod bushes fitted at 170,000 which are a bit firm for my liking but working well nonetheless. I replaced my struts at 190,000 with KYB Excel Gas along with new Mackay rubber strut top bushes, bearings and tie rod ends. Now I get a clunk from the front right when hitting bumps with even a small degree of left hand lock, and the strut tops creak when going over speed bumps etc - the typical rubber creaking on metal sound. I've inspected several times and can't find anything loose - especially strut bolts, caliper bolts and swaybar links.

2. I recently replaced my power steering fluid - sucked the reservoir out with a syringe, added new fluid, and ran lock-to-lock a few times with the engine running to circulate. Now the power steering shudders. It is so common with VYs I shouldn't be surprised, but it didn't used to.

3. While replacing the exhaust (the last cat-back was rusty, and broke in a few places thanks to a steep driveway. The new one sits even lower - scrapes even worse - yay!) I noticed the tailshaft centre bearing rubber badly cracked. I duly installed a new bearing, hoping it would take care of a tiny vibration at 110km/h. Now it vibrates heinously - I mean ridiculously - at 60 - 80km/h. I marked the spline when I took the tailshaft apart, but unfortunately didn't mark the position it bolted to the trans and diff - it's only got three bolts at each end so I (probably wrongly) assumed it didn't matter. At this rate, it's only a matter of time before I stuff a seal or bearing in the trans or diff.

4. I re-finished a set of 18" HBD J series alloys for the car. The car has NEVER driven smoothly on the highway, with the standard 17s and these wheels. I spun them up on my lathe (very slow speed) to check roundness when I was working on them, and found the best one to be within 0.5mm of round, and the worst to have a flat spot of approximately 1.5mm on the inside edge for about 5% of it's circumference. Running Toyo Teo Plus 235/45 18s. The balance was done at the start of the year and I'm about to try it yet again, as I honestly believe I have eliminated anything else which can cause wheel wobble - new shocks and bushes all round, new tie rod ends, exceptional wheel alignment, the lot. Still it wobbles.

With those issues and having to re-visit the exhaust to stop the tips rubbing on the bumper + trying to get it to sit high enough to get into my garage, machining the brake rotors to stop ridiculous amounts of brake shudder, trying to stop the door and window rubbers creaking (not to mention the glue that holds the roof turret on creaking over bumps - WTF???) and the myriad of interior rattles and noises, the car is starting to feel like a dog. All I want to do is enjoy it until I can afford something new and leave the experience of a high-km car well and truly behind me.

Can anyone help with those points? :)

Souljah
26-08-2014, 09:08 AM
Superpro strut tops. Haven't had a drama. Why use rubber when they will flog out in no time?

Toddler78
26-08-2014, 12:00 PM
Maybe a louder stereo?

Knowing the guy, Im sure the stereo is loud enough

BigAnt
26-08-2014, 06:19 PM
Knowing the guy, Im sure the stereo is loud enough
:goodjob:

Sorry I don't have the solution to your problems Callum, but I hope someone can help you out because the car certainly looks immaculate from the pics Ive seen. I know it can be demoralizing spending many hours putting in the effort and not yielding the results you are after.
Goodluck.

Micks
26-08-2014, 06:24 PM
Doesn't really help the Op..though most advise to fit a new double Din & turn it up :lol:

Jamolad
26-08-2014, 08:59 PM
...trying to stop the door and window rubbers creaking...

Tip I got from on here was belt grip on the door rubbers. I do it probably once a month and it makes a fair difference on my tired old WH - sure, only a temporary difference, but very little effort and does make a difference.

Sometimes while I am at it I use another tip from on here but that is probably more to do with a bit of wind noise - put the window right down, open the door, put a knee at the top of the door card just below the window opening and give the top of the window frame a few firm tugs to pull the frame inwards again. Apparently they can lose their inward bend and get a bit straightened towards vertical from continually powering the windows all the way up and then some (which I can't stop myself from doing). Need to go easy as the author of that tip said you can break the window frame if you go all Hulk on it, so I just feel it out a bit and build up to what pressure I feel it can take.

Yeah, I know I should just get and fit new rubbers - but I am a tight arse, and a lazy arse, already have belt grip, would only make matters worse trying to fit rubbers myself, and will be trading out of the old barge soon.

Can't help with any of the real issues you numbered but am interested in some of them too.

Toddler78
26-08-2014, 09:43 PM
Callum give me a call some time we'll catch up and have a look at it.

re the clunk from the stuts its not unlikly that the strut is stuffed and is offering no damping, easy way to tell is pul them out and push down on thrm to feel the resixtance.

when you repladed all the bushes did you use the grease that comes with the nolathane bushes? Otherwise they will get chewedout

re brake shudder you didnt mention changing caster bushes. If they are oem that will be the cause of your brake shudder

Big_Valven
27-08-2014, 08:20 PM
Thanks for the ideas so far guys. The stereo does fine. :) Even though it's 'only' a high-km Commodore, I'm proud of it, and I don't want to drive it around knowing bits aren't right. Plus it's annoying as shit when it's wobbling and vibrating, even if the bass is providing vibration of it's own. :)

- Strut tops are OEM (Mackay Rubber ones, same same,) I wouldn't put urethane ones in anyway. It's worth noting they don't creak when steering, only on large humps and bumps. I think I'll take the hats off on the hoist and spray some lanolin or inox down there.
- I don't have the energy or time to remove the front struts at the moment, there's no signs they're faulty though, driving or stationary. Ride quality is much better all round, no corner is behaving strangely in that regard. I don't know there's anything I can do for the right front clunk except put it on the hoist and torque everything up again. It honestly sounds like it could be a loose caliper or swaybar link, but I can't get them any tighter.
- I didn't replace the bushes myself, the car yard actually did it under warranty All appears well under there.
- Caster bushes = radius rod bushes :) They're Nolathane and work quite well with the HSV brakes. The tie rod ends did help a lot with shudder around town but on the highway the shudder is ridiculous when braking.

I'll get it on my friend's hoist when I can and give it all a look. Hopefully I can tweak the exhaust mounts while it's up there. Some hints re the tailshaft would be good though - I'm quite concerned about that one :S

Oh and Todd, you'll have to come round to my new workshop and kick tyres with me sometime :)

clubzls2
27-08-2014, 11:15 PM
Hi Big Valven, That's a shame it isn't working out as expected. I have a similar car bought it with similar miles not to long ago and have done similar repairs and mods but touch wood it drives smoothly with out any dramas so far.....I'm loving my VY but if you've done what you can are unhappy and it feels like it all needs re doing all over again probably best to trade up now otherwise your just going to throw more money at something that is just not pleasing you any longer..Good luck

BLACKVE
28-08-2014, 07:42 AM
nothing worse than when you hate your car due to annoying vibrations/Wobble, my old VS statesman had a vibration I took ages to track down, proper alignment, replaced pads/and machined discschecked all drive line mounts bushes replace afew rubbers in front end(factory stuff) was still there maily noticed when brakeing, ended up be a tyre, even though tyres were newish and balanced aliright one was out of round(when I put it on the back when rotating tyres) it was better, breaking put weight on the front causing it to show up more.

Hopefully you find the issue.

Re tailshaft sounds bad, I'd pull the lot aoart and re don trying different position.

Good luck