HO Alternator - Do I need one?

[FrangaFry]

Howdy folks, recently, have had some additions installed into my VYIISS wags {Viper Alarm system, new double din head unit, decent AMP, decent speakers, reversing camera and DVR} did replace the battery just prior to install as well.

Since having all of the above installed, I have noticed a slow decline in a number of things ............. first Aeuroforce gauges started to go on the fritz (was keeping an eye on the volts just prior and I did notice a slow, over a couple of months, and gradual decline in volts - from 14 down to 13.5'ish and then the gauges started to fritz out). Have since noticed the wags no longer fires on first crank either............. so chucked a volt meter on and even with alternator running, battery was under 13 volts ..... Doh!

So I have just gone and bought myself a trickle charger (CTEK MXS5.0T BATTERY CHARGER 12 VOLT 12V 5A 5 AMP REPLACES XS4003 DEEP CYCLE AGM) to give me a bit more 'thinking' space .................. but I think my 140amp alternator (recently replaced) is not up to the job ........... double doh! and will now need to be replaced also.

What are folks thoughts? What's the best way to address this issue when I think (without being an auto elec) that I am drawing more than I am replacing .................. will a trickle charger keep me going or do I need to replace my alternator again with a HO version (and if so, which one, will it be a straight replacement or will mounting fabrication be required?)

As always, thanks to the learned ..........

Cheers,

[white lie]

I can't see you having an issue with that list of equipment.
In comparison, I've got all the standard issue gear, a 4500WRMS stereo and two external Walbro fuel pumps and still maintain high 13 to low 14V when charging.

I do have two high end batteries but that's irrelevant when the car is running.

My suggestion would be to replace the main wiring. Alternator to positive battery terminal, alternator to ground, engine to ground and battery to ground. Use at least 4GA wire (the bigger the better) and keep the runs as short as possible. It's a cheap thing to try but is one of the main issues of voltage drops, dimming lights etc etc.

Don't see many HO ones available locally but feistl did source them from the states, decent quality and a good price... If it was on its way out, i'd go this way but since you've just replaced it, may as well give it the best chance before ditching it.

[Bling Bling]

If it is only 13.5 volts it is not charging, check the charging rate off the back of the alt should be 13.9 to 14.2 cheers.

[FrangaFry]

If it is only 13.5 volts it is not charging, check the charging rate off the back of the alt should be 13.9 to 14.2 cheers.

Cheers guys, looks like I need to go down the 'Big 3 Upgrade' path ..... or is it 4?

Any chance anyone has a quick link to some D.I.Y's for the Big 3/4 ..... would love to see some pics from some folks attempt so can get an idea of where to run all this extra cable ..............

As always,

Thanks

[white lie]

It's usually called the big three but I like to put a bigger earth off the alternator as well.
I think there's a thread on here or SC when the 'hot earth' kits were popular, you can do something similar to that or use it for ideas.... The positive you can just run with the main loom

[mechatron]

These earthing kits from FHRX Studios will help
3565

[FrangaFry]

Cheers guys, bit of an update. Have been poking around and asking some questions of various folks and after a bit of faffing around with a multimeter have discovered I had a bad earth on the block.

Have whacked a new big arse earth cable on and my volts now seem stable (WooHoo, I can once again use all my accessories without my volts dropping down to low 13's).

I am still noticing though that it takes a couple of attempts at cranking her over before she starts (takes 3 discreet turns of the key or 2 attempts via remote start before she fires.....) and also getting a bit of a stumble at very low revs. Is this something that will clear as the ECU 're learns' or should I continue to trouble shoot other possible electrical issues. Car seems to otherwise be running fine and volts are stable when running at around 13.6v (still seems to slowly transition around 13.8 to 13.6 though)

Would love to hear some other folks thoughts.

Cheers,

Franga

[Bling Bling]

13.6 to 13.8 your alternater is not charging check with a volt meter at the battery should be 13.9 to 14.2

[IJ.]

13.6 to 13.8 your alternater is not charging check with a volt meter at the battery should be 13.9 to 14.2

How do you figure that Bling?

Anything over "KOEO" voltage is Charging...

[Bling Bling]

IJ i had to replace my alt it was charging 13.6 but the light was on new alt 14.2 volts all good, ps what is KOEO cheers

[IJ.]

"Key On Engine Off"

All depends on how much "Load" there is Bling, if you're drawing more current than the alternator can supply you're drawing on the battery and eventually it'll go flat, 13.8v is the tipping point but at 13.6v yours was still charging just not enough ;)

[Bling Bling]

I wish he would check the charging rate with the motor running with a volt meter all acc off, and see what volts he is getting.

[IJ.]

It's going to Float around 13.6 13.8 depending on the battery state of charge, a better test is to load it up with everything turned on and see where the voltage sits.

[FrangaFry]

Howdy guys, thanks for the replies.

I haven't charged the battery since replacing the block earth (Viper alarm left running all night plus the DVR in standby) and when I started it this morning, volts were showing 14.0 on my aeroforce gauges, after driving for a few minutes volts slowly dropped to 13.6 - that was with 'everything' on (lights, AC, stereo/amp, DVR, demister etc).

I'm still not happy with it, as I think it should be higher (i'd be happy if it is was more like 13.8) ....... so I had another look just now to try test the volts off the back of the alternator ............. but god damn how the hell do you do that without having to take the thermos out etc (I just can't seem to reach the positive post .......). Is there an easier way to do this, or will I need to take the alternator out and get it bench tested.

I'm still really keen to do the earth upgrades and also the positive cable upgrade from alt to battery so any tips on where to run the cables to keep the runs short but tidy; Also, for the chassis earth, where is the best place to attach this (any pics?)

Thanks folks

Franga

[white lie]

Thermo fans are nowhere near the back of the alt lol
Need to stick your hand down the back being careful of burning yourself on the headers. Best bet is to get a clip on probe and clip it on then start the car up.

If it's dropping voltage like that, it's either that the cabling is breaking down from heat/age and the resistance is increasing as it warms up and can no longer flow the required current or that the thermos kicking in are drawing more current and the alternator struggles (in which case if it's new, a higher output is required but I wouldn't have thought so).

Check the output at the back if it's higher than you're seeing at the battery then it's a wiring issue.

[IJ.]

Need to clear out your PM box Dude ;)