VZ SS 5.7L, will it handle 2300 harrop?

[brendanssz]

after info on topmount supercharging my 5.7L Ls1 engine that has done 80,000km. current mods are,

arp ls7 rod bolts
double row timing chain
isky gold valve springs
isky 224 230 cam
npc 450kw heavy duty clutch
25% underdrive pulley
twin 1 7/8 difillipo headers 100 cell cats twin 3 inch stainless.
also has 92mm intake manifold, otr cai ,injectors fuel rails and 92mm throttlebody and made 296rwkw.

just want some feedback from people who have a 5.7 with harrop 2300 charger what power they are making and if the engine can handle it?

[feistl]

I always recommend getting the 2300 over the 1900, primarily as the 2300 only has to spin slower to produce the same amount of boost. Also means less chance of belt slip etc. Plus it allows for greater boost down the track if you choose to.

The only real arguement to go for the 1900 (Other than price), is possible a slightly faster response time. But a top mount charger is pretty much instant anyway, so i dont see it being a big deal.

[FrangaFry]

My 2cents worth .... I've got a htv1900 on my 5.7 (baby cam, rods, springs etc) and with little understanding of the magic surrounding it, with the mods I have it is PERFECT ...... If I was to head down the stroker route though, I am led to beleive that I
would run out of 'puff' ...... So the 2300 would be better suited.

I am also led to believe that the 2300 requires a wee bit more effort to spin it up to good boost on a stocker 5.7, but it does work well ...... (Edit..... But I am a nuff nuff when it comes to these things and the memory ain't so good these days lol ......)

If I was to do it again, with future mods in mind (and a larger budget for sh1t that breaks along the way) I probably would seriously consider the 2300

[brendanssz]

yea ive been swinging more towards the 2300 why half ass it haha. any thoughts on the 5.7 being able to handle 500hp plus at the wheels? just dont want it to go pop. im thinking of running only 8psi so it makes good power and isnt pushed too hard. ive read stuff about tunning 12psi but I dont want to thrash it entirely

[brendanssz]

can anyone let give me some feedback on weather 5.7L will handle a harrop 2300 at 500hp at the wheels maybe a forum member?

[dgp]

Mate, as frangfry has indicated, you are going to break shit along the way which is going to need to be upgraded. Think gearbox, diff, drive shafts.

[Blown 454 AWD]

I had one on a LS1 for 5 years, no problems at all,

AWD as well and it was a beast.

Long as you don't go over the 400 kW the tranny won't mind either, 2wd easy, tyres will skid first.

Cheers

Steve

[white lie]

Mate, as frangfry has indicated, you are going to break shit along the way which is going to need to be upgraded. Think gearbox, diff, drive shafts.
Plenty of people say this, my personal experience...
2-3 years and 30-40,000kms, lots and lots of mid to low 11 second passes with 1.5-1.6 60 footers, over 500rwhp and not one fried gearbox, smashed diff or even a broken drive shaft. If you don't abuse it 24/7, things can be more reliable than a lot of people think.

[XUV]

can anyone let give me some feedback on weather 5.7L will handle a harrop 2300 at 500hp at the wheels maybe a forum member?
Check out some yank forums as they had a thing for putting the 2300 on the 5.7.

Head pressure might be something to think about and
as for 500hp , you're probably better keeping under the 350kw/455hp figure , unless you're rebuilding the box at the start.

So that said, you're probably better off with the smaller 1900 or even the 112, unless you've picked up a 2300 for a cheap price, then low lazy boost.

There's heaps on this , scroll down the page and click on a 'Similar thread'.

[white lie]

I made 450 on 6psi and for the dollar outlay, it was very unexhillerating to say the least. Didn't get exciting till the 480-500 mark and that's what I'd expect when you're outlaying 10-15 grand.

It's the torque and heat that will kill a box, not the 50rwhp difference.

[brendanssz]

some good answers but im not worried about the gearbox im asking about the engine and wether its going to handle 500hp or not. gearbox is already playing up and getting rebuilt soon. and I wont be abusing it 24/7 the cars 9 years old done 80,000km so It doesnt do a huge amount of driving

[IJ.]

some good answers but im not worried about the gearbox im asking about the engine and wether its going to handle 500hp or not. gearbox is already playing up and getting rebuilt soon. and I wont be abusing it 24/7 the cars 9 years old done 80,000km so It doesnt do a huge amount of driving

Comp and Leakdown test would be a good start..

[white lie]

Just bolt it on. You'll soon find a weak link if there was one.

[v8fazz]

Put on a 1900 at 150K for 400 rwkw. 16 months later and now at 172K and the engine is still perfectly fine.

[brendanssz]

nice thats some decent power and on an engine with a little more kms. cheers mate

[MPRSV8]

I've just put a deposit down on a Maggie 2300. It's only a grand more expensive than the 1900 installed, and i've already done heads, cam, pushrods & valve springs so i wanted something with a bit more boost if i get bored later on. As said above the 2300 wont have to spin as hard to get the same boost.

Also mines a M6 so im not worried about gearboxes, clutches and cv's though may be another issue. It goes in next week so i'll keep you posted.

[v8fazz]

Depending on how much power you end up with, the gearbox might not like it after a while!

[brendanssz]

howd you go with the 2300 what power figures did it make?

[MPRSV8]

Only dropped the car off on Tuesday, so should know next week :D

[brendanssz]

my mistake didnt read the date. ok thanks. you got 5.7L or 6.0L ?

[MPRSV8]

5.7 with head and cam.

[brendanssz]

what power u make frm head n cam? did u get your heads cnc or u buy a new set.

[MPRSV8]

Made 328rwkws. Higgins heads so i gave them my C4B heads, and got back a set of ported Higgins 241's.

I've got a pretty angry cam though so will be interest to see if it's blower friendly.

[MPRSV8]

Has anyone that has bolted a 2300 to a LS1 in a VT/VX had issues with the TB fouling the bonnet?

[white lie]

I've heard of the red HSV ones fouling even on 1900's. Is that what you're still using?
Does it have a spacer/adapter to go from 3 to 4 bolt?

[MPRSV8]

Yeah mate, still got the red one. Gonna try a few other things first. Is that why you are using the Holley one Chris?

Matt.

[white lie]

Not sure if you got my pm but my car didn't have the billet throttle when I bought it, only a cheap aftermarket one, so I put the 90mm Holley on.

I know of an SV 300 that had the same dramas, in the end he put another one on. You can try dropping the mounts or maybe flipping it but not sure it will work. You probably want a 90mm on there anyway, it's just an added expense

[MPRSV8]

Yeah I got them mate. Looks like it still won't fit even with spacers. Might have to look into a new TB in the new year.

[white lie]

I think the spacer makes it worse as it sticks out further where the bonnet is coming down at that point

[MPRSV8]

Oh really ... thats a good point. Might look into the Holley TB.

[brendanssz]

ive got an 90mm throttle bodies australia electronic tb, but that company doesnt exist anymore n Im pretty sure this thing wont fit on a blower because the electric motor housing is huge. but it does fit pretty well on the fast manifold at the moment

[white lie]

You can usually try flipping the electronic ones. Doesn't work as easily with cables. Provided it sits high enough for the electronics to clear the blower

[IJ.]

You can usually try flipping the electronic ones. Doesn't work as easily with cables. Provided it sits high enough for the electronics to clear the blower

Had to do this with the Stealth Force in the VZ

[MPRSV8]

I've got cable, and my GTS TB is too big. Got a Holley 90mm that I will put on in the new year ... then tune time

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a342/MPRSV8/80DA852F-AC4A-4256-A5B5-E63343B4F625-5718-0000066E931DB814_zps9f0c6230.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/MPRSV8/media/80DA852F-AC4A-4256-A5B5-E63343B4F625-5718-0000066E931DB814_zps9f0c6230.jpg.html)

[MPRSV8]

So its all on, and fits under the bonnet now. GGot tuned with the 7psi puilley and make 389wkws.

I am now hooked and am already thinking of going to 10psi pulley... just hope the engine holds together.

[brendanssz]

thats some good power and low psi i like the sound of that. hows it all going had any problems? still havent got around to doing mine as of yet but its still on the table.

[The_Plague]

Plenty of people say this, my personal experience...
2-3 years and 30-40,000kms, lots and lots of mid to low 11 second passes with 1.5-1.6 60 footers, over 500rwhp and not one fried gearbox, smashed diff or even a broken drive shaft. If you don't abuse it 24/7, things can be more reliable than a lot of people think.

The man is right.
Go the 2300.
A mate has the 1900 on a 6.0 GTS and it has run out of puff on a fairly modified motor (not stroked but has the crank, cam, heads, etc etc upgraded etc).
As for 500+rwhp taking it out of the other driveline components - well it depends on how you treat it I guess.
I have over 600rwhp from turbos through a 5.7 that has a fair few mods (but no bottom end mods) and nothing too crazy done to the driveline and I haven't had an issue, although I have barely driven it the lsat couple of years and was never a fan of revving it to 5K in 2nd and dropping the clutch - which I have been told is the key to causing failures quickly lol.
Cheap insurance = a diff cover that holds more oil, a rip shift or similar if you don't already have one, and with the bigger sumps starting to become more common think about one of those.

Power with the 1900 will differ from builder to builder and dyno accuracy, but a friend has had his top out at just under 400rwkw and there is some belt slip happening due to what others have said before - your cam may lend itself to more power though.
He is getting some custom work done in regard to pulleys etc now to try overcome it - but easier to just go the 2300 as I have been told the pulleys etc move to the front as opposed to the rear of the blower.
An issue I noticed with the rear biased setup is that if there is any leakage of water from the windscreen area down the plastic adjoining the windscreen (that is supposed to be flush with the glass) is that it lands directly onto the belting at the rear of the blower..................... maybe its not a factor but I don't like it.

EDIT= Read onto next page, that 2300 made good power at 7psi!

[brendanssz]

The man is right.
Go the 2300.
A mate has the 1900 on a 6.0 GTS and it has run out of puff on a fairly modified motor (not stroked but has the crank, cam, heads, etc etc upgraded etc).
As for 500+rwhp taking it out of the other driveline components - well it depends on how you treat it I guess.
I have over 600rwhp from turbos through a 5.7 that has a fair few mods (but no bottom end mods) and nothing too crazy done to the driveline and I haven't had an issue, although I have barely driven it the lsat couple of years and was never a fan of revving it to 5K in 2nd and dropping the clutch - which I have been told is the key to causing failures quickly lol.
Cheap insurance = a diff cover that holds more oil, a rip shift or similar if you don't already have one, and with the bigger sumps starting to become more common think about one of those.

Power with the 1900 will differ from builder to builder and dyno accuracy, but a friend has had his top out at just under 400rwkw and there is some belt slip happening due to what others have said before - your cam may lend itself to more power though.
He is getting some custom work done in regard to pulleys etc now to try overcome it - but easier to just go the 2300 as I have been told the pulleys etc move to the front as opposed to the rear of the blower.
An issue I noticed with the rear biased setup is that if there is any leakage of water from the windscreen area down the plastic adjoining the windscreen (that is supposed to be flush with the glass) is that it lands directly onto the belting at the rear of the blower..................... maybe its not a factor but I don't like it.

EDIT= Read onto next page, that 2300 made good power at 7psi!

Haha yea that 5k in 2nd gear while rolling along was fun at the time but i have paid the penalty for it now with syncro crunching coming from 3rd back to 2nd on occasions it sounds bloody terrible. 2300 with lower psi sounds good to me to be honest less stress on the engine at higher revs id also imagine seeing as your creating more volume of air than a 1900 at same revs and less pressure. whats the best way to stop belt slip different sized pulleys and gilmer drives? can u get front drive front intake for vz or is that only for ve upwards.

[white lie]

Belt slip usually comes from a small blower drive pulley and poor tension.
Get a good tensioner, try and up the boost with either Gilmer rears or a larger crank pulley before going to a smaller blower pulley. But of course an overdrive balancer will also spin the accessories faster so it may depend on how long it will spend at higher rpms.
Going to an 8pk will help and you can get GripTec pulleys from the states which are somewhat roughened/textured/machined to help as well.