VY Rear Main Seal & Clutch

[LTH-00L]

Hi guys,

My VY Monaro is starting to lose oil from the rear main seal so i've decided I might as well do the clutch at the same time as the seal.

Anyone got any recommendations about where to buy both a clutch kit and rear seal? I would prefer to stick with genuine equipment and I'm based in Sydney.

Thanks in Advance.

[LTH-00L]

Hi All, I called Peninsula Holden today to get a price on both a clutch kit & Rear seal.

They quoted $740 for the clutch kit which includes fly wheel & slave cylinder. Nothing too surprising here but when it came to the seal i was very surprised. Apparently they don't sell just the seal and i need to buy the entire housing at a cost of $202. Does this sound right? Was there a problem with the original housing which is why Holden now sell it as a complete kit?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

[SASLS1]

New design reverse Lip Seal from GM part number is 89018129.

I replaced mine on my L76 6.0L. Holden part number for above is 89060436, $49.65 in Sep 2013.

GM motorsport sell rear main seal for $38.50 below

http://www.gmmotorsport.com.au/products/Gasket-Rear-Main-suit-all-LS-Engines.html

[SASLS1]

Have read in here,

http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?167903-Clutches-these-days&highlight=mcleod

[LTH-00L]

New design reverse Lip Seal from GM part number is 89018129.

I replaced mine on my L76 6.0L. Holden part number for above is 89060436, $49.65 in Sep 2013.

GM motorsport sell rear main seal for $38.50 below

http://www.gmmotorsport.com.au/products/Gasket-Rear-Main-suit-all-LS-Engines.html

Thanks a lot for that, i'd much rather replace the just the seal for 40 bucks rather than the entire housing!

[LTH-00L]

Have read in here,

http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?167903-Clutches-these-days&highlight=mcleod

I found this online today. What are your thoughts? keep in mind my car is stock with the exception of an exhaust and tune.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/131453587865?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fsch %2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3D1314 53587865%26_rdc%3D1

[R8HSVHRT]

I have heard from a few mechanics that the housing that holds the seal is subjected to a lot of heat and tends to distort over time causing the seal to leak

Im replacing the clutch in my car and will be changing the whole housing don't want any problems as its not an easy fix

[LTH-00L]

I have heard from a few mechanics that the housing that holds the seal is subjected to a lot of heat and tends to distort over time causing the seal to leak

Im replacing the clutch in my car and will be changing the whole housing don't want any problems as its not an easy fix

hmm, ok something for me to think about then. Thanks for the advice!

[Bling Bling]

I have heard from a few mechanics that the housing that holds the seal is subjected to a lot of heat and tends to distort over time causing the seal to leak

Im replacing the clutch in my car and will be changing the whole housing don't want any problems as its not an easy fix
Any body else out there with a distorted rear end???

[ls2 cruiser]

I don't think your rear plate will be distorted. Just make sure you put some assembly lube on the new lip of the seal and where it touches the crank and also make sure the crankshaft is ok where the seal runs. Moly grease will do the job. Linish the crank by hand if you have to. The bolts on your flywheel might also go through the crank and into the sump so they might need to be sealed as mine do. Have a good look at that just to make sure. I use hydraulic thread sealant (red on mine). That way they don't come undone as well.

[ls2 cruiser]

Also, while the rear plate is bolted to the engine, it is not going to be warped. You can change the seal without removing the rear plate. That way you don't have to buy a new seal for the plate.

[whitels1ss]

Also, while the rear plate is bolted to the engine, it is not going to be warped.

I can't imagine it warping whilst it's on there either.

[IJ.]

The seals come prelubed, If you remove the Plate to change out the seal you then need an alignment tool to reinstall the plate, better to leave the plate bolted in place as Cruiser says.

4198

4199

[ls2 cruiser]

That's a very nifty tool. I don't have it and all I do is measure the sideways (horizontal) distance from the crank on each side and make them the same. The vertical distance is located by the position of the sump. My block is line honed because of a main stud kit and so my crank is higher by .003" or more. The seal has a fair bit of movement and it does not worry it to be out just slightly. Put some extra lube on the crank where the seal runs as it wont hurt.

[SASLS1]

Seal must be installed Dry, as the inner lip of the seal has a PTFE coating, and the crankshaft seal surface must also be dry for correct break in of the seal, per the service manual.

You can lightly lube the OD of the seal only to aid install.

[SASLS1]

I found this online today. What are your thoughts? keep in mind my car is stock with the exception of an exhaust and tune.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/131453587865?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fsch %2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3D1314 53587865%26_rdc%3D1

No brand names of parts, could be anything???, unknown quantity...

If your happy with the stock clutch, stick with it.

My stock clutch was slipping bad at 80000km, and I wanted something better to future proof it for upgrades down the track.

The Mcleod RST twin disk organic, was the best one for me, was half the cost of all the other twin plates out there, has stock driveability, as light or lighter than stock pedal feel and rated at 800hp, far more than I'll ever see.

[ls2 cruiser]

My engine puts out 790 HP and has done at least 80 11psi boosts to 6800rpm and my rear seal doesn't leak. That coating stuff is interesting though. :dance:

[IJ.]

My engine puts out 790 HP and has done at least 80 11psi boosts to 6800rpm and my rear seal doesn't leak. That coating stuff is interesting though. :dance:

When I first assembled mine I just put it together the way I always have with other engines and it was perfect, didn't leak a drop, wasn't until I blew the rear main due to the dodgy new PCV routing/blower combination that I read up on the seals and the "proper" way to install them and the Teflon coating used for initial break in, they're not a traditional Lip seal more of a full face seal I'm guessing to reduce friction and wear on the crank..

In hindsight mine would have recovered soon as I corrected the PCV set up but I'd already pulled it by that stage so it was new seal time..

[LTH-00L]

Thanks for all the advice guys, really appreciated! If anyone else has any tips, don't hesitate in posting!

Thanks again.
CK