getting from 12.2s in to 11s on wh Ls1 Cam only

[HDT 01]

Hi everyone
some may know my car spec.
i have WH with cam 3500 stall 25% pully 3.7 gear. with drag radials has run best of 12.2 111 mph which i think its low for top end.
my question is what can i do for $2000 to make it in to high 11s. is it possible with up to $2000.
any suggestion please will be great.
thanks
Dan

[duke5700]

Stick a 150 shot of gas in it.

[white lie]

What's your average 60 foot and what tyre pressure do you run?
What are the specs on the cam and how much power does it usually make?

Being a stato, it will be reasonably heavy but shouldn't take too much to get it there.

[HDT 01]

power is around 245rwkw on 20'' and stall. Tyre pressure i started from 18 to 10.
cam spec was custom so i really don't know, that's if its really is custom. but my guess is 222/224 it doesn't sound that big.
1.7 is best 60 foot.

[white lie]

What size radial?
10psi is pretty low, it's probably why the trap speed is down.
Were they not hooking up at 18?
Do you load up the stall or just mash the pedal?

What sort of front wheels do you run? Big pizza pan chromies won't do anything to help. Pump them right up as well, 50psi or so.

If you can get that 60 foot down to a 1.6 or lower, you'll have a high 11 to flat 12.

[HDT 01]

Good point about psi. I don't know why I went that low. On 18 was hooking up fine. And couldn't load it up more then 2000rpm.
Low psi may be the answer for low mph. And yes I do have fully sick 20" wheels on front. Which I'm going to change them anyways. I think my radials are 255/15/ can't remember. Could a t/b and a retune make much difference

[white lie]

I run 18" radials and can hook up 1.5 60's at 22-23psi with a big enough burnout. Under 20 and they start pulling the trap speed down. Start just above 20psi and drop 1psi each run until they hook up. If they were hooking up at 18, that may have even been too low. I'm not sure on 15"s. And again, pump the fronts right up to reduce rolling resistance.

Changing from a big 20" chrome wheel to a lighter 5 spoke 20" allowed me to get such a low 60 foot. Always used to be around the 1.7-1.8 mark before then. Suspension will also play a big part if it's low or have stiff suspension. Old flogged out Fe2 stuff is best.
I don't bother stalling it up, let the converter do what it's designed to. Just a little rpm to take the slack out of the driveline, around 1000rpm and then mash the throttle when it's time to go.

I think there's more in the combo if you just work on the setup of the car. Don't need to go retuning or anything just yet. The power figure is fairly low for a cammed LS1 though, I'd expect upwards of 260rwkw even for a smallish cam and around the 115mph mark

Every 10th you can shave off the 60 should give you double at the other end.

[markone2]

Hi everyone
some may know my car spec.
i have WH with cam 3500 stall 25% pully 3.7 gear. with drag radials has run best of 12.2 111 mph which i think its low for top end.
my question is what can i do for $2000 to make it in to high 11s. is it possible with up to $2000.
any suggestion please will be great.
thanks
Dan

Dan ..I will take your 2K offer..............pm me / it will cost you all of $300 to make that elusive 11 second mark...look below


M


.

[white lie]

Money for jam eh M12?

As an aside, do you run with the air filter in or out Dan?

[markone2]

Money for jam eh M12?

As an aside, do you run with the air filter in or out Dan?

Already spent :beer:......cooking tea for grand kids...back soon

.

[HDT 01]

Sorry guys just been at work.
Some really good info I have learned so far. To answer some questions.
My tuner did tell me should do 115mph. Then I did tell them about but got busy with new house so never went back.
Did the 12.2 in my stranded suspension and auto leveller. Now I have coilovers now.
Did the runs with out the filter.

[markone2]

Change Coilovers for new stock standard new FE2... .Cheap as

MT drag radial 3752R P235/60R15 is the max size diameter tyre you want at 26.1", in fact a 17" Semi Comp will most likely
see a better launch time due to lower diameter .NO matter what you choose/ ALWAYS but ALWAYS run at 22psi
...which brings me to your diff / 3.7 is ok for street duties but you are giving up
all chance of 1.5 sixty footers at current power levels

No idea what size TC your running , but to give you a glue, the cam only WH 11 Caprice in my sig below was running back to back
1.55 sixty footers off 3.9's and a Dominator 4800........that same TC is now running in a higher powered WH11 Statesman that to date
has refused point blank to go below 1.70 ..The reason , chap I sold it to and then purchased it back from had it reconditioned, now too damn tight.
But problem solved by the reappearance of one of my infamous 6K non lock up converters...works every time to produce 1.5's and lower in
cam only cars..and against all laws of physics it always ups trap mph by 2 to 3mph

Tune.....no matter what, 1st gear needs to be running out to a MINIMUM of 7K..no ifs no buts .

Wheels.ditch the bling . fit some 90/100's up front with some stand 15 " rims , or if money is no issue the WELD 3.5" rims up front

Turn side mirrors in when running and only do short sharp burnouts....heat kills these engines.....


Forget about larger TB's ..minimal increase at current power level

4288

[white lie]

Great post mark.
He's only got a 3500 converter which will be pulling things down somewhat. For the 2k budget I'd either be going with a 4500-5k converter or shorter gears. 3.91 or 4.11.

Should be able to pick up some Fe2 suspension and stock front wheels on the cheap. Spend half a day changing stuff over, run your time and change it back if you prefer...Or leave it all in for the season :)

[HDT 01]

Change Coilovers for new stock standard new FE2... .Cheap as

MT drag radial 3752R P235/60R15 is the max size diameter tyre you want at 26.1", in fact a 17" Semi Comp will most likely
see a better launch time due to lower diameter .NO matter what you choose/ ALWAYS but ALWAYS run at 22psi
...which brings me to your diff / 3.7 is ok for street duties but you are giving up
all chance of 1.5 sixty footers at current power levels

No idea what size TC your running , but to give you a glue, the cam only WH 11 Caprice in my sig below was running back to back
1.55 sixty footers off 3.9's and a Dominator 4800........that same TC is now running in a higher powered WH11 Statesman that to date
has refused point blank to go below 1.70 ..The reason , chap I sold it to and then purchased it back from had it reconditioned, now too damn tight.
But problem solved by the reappearance of one of my infamous 6K non lock up converters...works every time to produce 1.5's and lower in
cam only cars..and against all laws of physics it always ups trap mph by 2 to 3mph

Tune.....no matter what, 1st gear needs to be running out to a MINIMUM of 7K..no ifs no buts .

Wheels.ditch the bling . fit some 90/100's up front with some stand 15 " rims , or if money is no issue the WELD 3.5" rims up front

Turn side mirrors in when running and only do short sharp burnouts....heat kills these engines.....


Forget about larger TB's ..minimal increase at current power level

4288

markone2
i remember seen that photo. all of your info are right.
the only problem is i don't like doing things twice. i new when i got my 3500 converter that the bigger the better time, but wanted something more street friendly, if that's right or wrong not sure. so unfortunately i have to keep what i have and try to get the best time out of it.
i will go and have a look at my drag radials what size are they. did 12.2 7 years ago and Dec/2014 had 5 runs and best was 12.3 same mph.
so the only changes i have now is coil-overs and new Duspeed intake. i really don't want to spend money changing things, i rather add if you know what i mean.

[white lie]

4500 converter and 3.91's here, missus drove it daily without a worry in the world and she's only really driven 4cyl's prior. Big converters aren't necessarily pigs. I drive to the strip, change some rear tyres and reel off 1.5x 60 footers.

Without a doubt, the smaller stall will be holding you back.

What else can you add - throttle body or Nitrous? Compared to what you can change - stall, diff gears, cam. Choice is obvious to me if you don't want to run NOS.

I understand that you don't like to do things twice (who does?) but sometimes it's trial and error to get where you want to be.

[HDT 01]

4500 converter and 3.91's here, missus drove it daily without a worry in the world and she's only really driven 4cyl's prior. Big converters aren't necessarily pigs. I drive to the strip, change some rear tyres and reel off 1.5x 60 footers.

Without a doubt, the smaller stall will be holding you back.

What else can you add - throttle body or Nitrous? Compared to what you can change - stall, diff gears, cam. Choice is obvious to me if you don't want to run NOS.

I understand that you don't like to do things twice (who does?) but sometimes it's trial and error to get where you want to be.


i wish i was given the right info when i was adding the converter. not Craig's fault, he did tell me to go bigger but at that time was given the wrong idea about bigger converter.
will im going to look at my radials spec and may be start with 23psi and see what deference can make and have some fun.