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View Full Version : help needed VZ V8 one tonner issues



ajs
31-08-2015, 02:51 PM
This morning my one tonner started playing up, it started fine and drove into town and when starting it again the starter motor was clicking and sounded like it was not engaging properly but started and then the fuel and temp gauge stopped working and also the ac, the power shift and gear indicator. I have checked all fuses and relays the battery is reading 12.9 volts. and no faults or codes showing up on the scan tool. The car is a VZ V8 one tonner 2005 auto. The car has never had a problem in its 10 year history. It has the usual mods exhaust, intake and tune.
Has anyone else came across these problems, it just started doing this this morning out of the blue.
cheers Allan

IJ.
31-08-2015, 03:32 PM
Try unclipping and reclipping the ABS Connector a few times Allan.

ajs
31-08-2015, 03:44 PM
Thanks IJ I will try that, I have also disconnected the battery terminal and left it for 1/2hr and about to reconnect and try it.

IJ.
31-08-2015, 04:04 PM
No probs Al, seen all those errors a couple of times I've forgot to plug mine back in... ;)

ajs
31-08-2015, 04:30 PM
I have tried the battery disconnect and ABS connector and still have the same issues. The fuel and temp gauges both rise to the bottom line when turned on but go no further when started. I don't think it a battery problem as I have 12.9 volts with the engine not running and 14.5 with it running, Its got me stumped. It looks like I'm of to holden for the fix and will let you know the out come for future reference.
cheers Allan

Micks
31-08-2015, 04:36 PM
Had a VY tonner & now a VZ Crewie going by the symptons battery is either on it's way out that or the ABS unit is cactus.

XUV
01-09-2015, 12:32 PM
I have tried the battery disconnect and ABS connector and still have the same issues. The fuel and temp gauges both rise to the bottom line when turned on but go no further when started. I don't think it a battery problem as I have 12.9 volts with the engine not running and 14.5 with it running, Its got me stumped. It looks like I'm of to holden for the fix and will let you know the out come for future reference.
cheers Allan
have you tried jumping it? battery might indicate a voltage, but a cell might be dying and it's cca might be lacking.

ajs
01-09-2015, 08:40 PM
Had the car at Holden today and nothing coming up on the Tech2 scanner all it picked up was the Maf missing (mafless tune). Installed a new battery still the same issues. They suggested replacing the starter motor, because of the way its starting and checking the starter loom and the earth points under the bonnet. They have not come across this problem before as well and I did not want to leave it there as they seem to have no clue just like me and I would assume it could have been quite expensive by the time they finished. So I have parked the ute until the weekend and start with what has been suggested. I also disconnected the ABS and stated the car and still the same issues.

ajs
05-09-2015, 07:00 PM
Today, I have replace the battery with fully charged optima red top battery and replaced the starter motor and still have the same problems nothing has changed with my problem. The only thing I can add as when my mechanic used their scan tool it can up with a do not start for the engine, some times it takes 4/6 tries before it starts and when it does the car seems normal to drive just no fuel , temp gauge (engineering mode says temp is -40? and all the zeros in faults but for the 17th one which holden states is not used and not even picked up with Tech2) no air con, shift mode or gear indicator (auto). I have checked the earth connections and could not find any fault they were tight and clean.
When it tries to start the starter motor seems to be jerky and no engaging properly and the dash lights flicker.
What should I try next as nothing is showing up with scan tools or even less with Holden's Tech2.

white lie
05-09-2015, 07:14 PM
Dash lights flickering sounds like a voltage drop of some sort to me.
Have you checked what voltage is there when you're trying to crank it?

Did you happen to see what the cabling was like? It can get brittle and deteriorate from the heat over time which will increase its resistance making it harder to start. You can try running a jumper cable from the starter back to the battery and see if it starts.

Does the security lights go off when the key is in? May be a poor connection at the key or ignition barrel. Try turning the key 180 degrees if you put it in the same way every time or try a spare. Its also common for the connection at the back of the ignition ring to fail so may be worth checking there also.

But all that said, I'm pretty sure it should still crank if there's a security issue. Just easy things worth checking.

Micks
05-09-2015, 07:36 PM
Reckon you may be right White. Quite possible one of the main leads are internally crystallized, that or a dicky "fusible link" or termination. seen this many times before.

ajs
05-09-2015, 07:42 PM
I have viewed the starting in engineering mode and it drops to 10.9 volts while cranking, the cabling looks to be fine, there doesn't seem to be any security issues with the key but I will check it tomorrow and the ignition ring. Thanks for the reply.

Micks
05-09-2015, 07:45 PM
Very difficult to assess your cabling by viewing it. Sure the insulation/terminations may look ok, but what about the conductors themselves?

white lie
05-09-2015, 08:39 PM
10.9 is about right, you'd think the starter would be throwing out with that.
I'd check the cabling. Like I say, running a jumper lead from the positive terminal back to the battery (and the earth doesn't hurt either) is an easy way to test it. Or if you can't get it to reach, just put it up on stands and have another battery on the ground where it can reach.

Just re-read your other reply, if the gauges in the car and AC etc aren't working when it does get running, it may be a poor connection on the BCM or something else like that.

XUV
06-09-2015, 12:25 PM
faulty TPS????

Souljah
06-09-2015, 04:55 PM
car seems normal to drive just no fuel , temp gauge (engineering mode says temp is -40? and all the zeros in faults but for the 17th one which holden states is not used and not even picked up with Tech2) no air con, shift mode or gear indicator (auto).

Sounds like similar symptoms that happen when i'm doing a data log on our VY Super 6. Car drives fine but the dash and climate do funky things as the data cable is interrupting the chatter from the cars modules to the dash.

ajs
07-09-2015, 05:19 PM
Had the car to an auto elect. today and he has had the similar faults with a crewman and he said it was the PIM. So went to Holden and there are none listed in Aus. or any PCMs. They have placed one on back order for me but could take weeks to just get availability. I then tried bursons but they need the old pim, pcm and bcm plus the keys to be sent to Melbourne to be all linked at a cost of $635. the Holden PIM is $105, I don't like the idea of pulling the car apart and send them off in the post, but I might have to and still no guarantee that this will fix my problem.

Micks
07-09-2015, 05:28 PM
Had the car to an auto elect. today and he has had the similar faults with a crewman and he said it was the PIM. So went to Holden and there are none listed in Aus. or any PCMs. They have placed one on back order for me but could take weeks to just get availability. I then tried bursons but they need the old pim, pcm and bcm plus the keys to be sent to Melbourne to be all linked at a cost of $635. the Holden PIM is $105, I don't like the idea of pulling the car apart and send them off in the post, but I might have to and still no guarantee that this will fix my problem.

Bring us up to speed here is the PIM used on both Autos & manuals? Couldn't you buy a s/h pim & have a switched on auto/elec/mechanic relink the pcm & bcm at the same time?

ajs
07-09-2015, 05:36 PM
I looked into a s/h pim but they tell me they have to be unlinked from the donor car before removal if not there unusable or programmable. They also need to be from the same vehicle or matching part numbers being a one tonner its going to hard to find one.

Micks
07-09-2015, 05:50 PM
Ok, Try these guys in Sydney:
Commwreck Auto Dismantlers
Address: 23 Ilma St, Condell Park NSW 2200
Phone: 02 9792 7511

Bought my spare ECM from them from an exact Crewman eg same part no: at the time took it to Sonny & he sorted no problems.

ajs
07-09-2015, 07:04 PM
Thanks Mick I will give them a call in the morning. The problem here in the country is the lack of good tuners, I have to travel to Brisbane as its closer for any tuning.
cheers Allan

BigRob
08-09-2015, 12:39 AM
Wow, what an annoying problem!

It's issues like yours that cause most people to just give up and sell their cars.

Don't do that.... you'll eventually find the cause and once it's sorted out you'll be happy and everyone reading this will benefit.

XUV
08-09-2015, 11:31 AM
Had the car to an auto elect. today and he has had the similar faults with a crewman and he said it was the PIM. So went to Holden and there are none listed in Aus. or any PCMs. They have placed one on back order for me but could take weeks to just get availability. I then tried bursons but they need the old pim, pcm and bcm plus the keys to be sent to Melbourne to be all linked at a cost of $635. the Holden PIM is $105, I don't like the idea of pulling the car apart and send them off in the post, but I might have to and still no guarantee that this will fix my problem.
wow, what problem ........... is trading it out of the question?

ajs
08-09-2015, 09:05 PM
Had the car to another mechanic today and they thought it was the key reader and then the instrument cluster and then wrong starter motor because of the noise it was making when cranking. So bit the bullet and removed the PIM, BCM ECU and the 2 keys all boxed up to be sent to injectronics in Melbourne tomorrow. I really hope this fixes the problem as I'm not 100% sure ( or any auto elect or mechanic) what the exact cause is. I will report back when they return and installed.

ajs
14-09-2015, 01:30 PM
Problem fixed, I received my computers back today and installed them and all fixed the people at Injectronics tested my PIM and it was faulty, they didn't have a reco one and repaired mine.
The cost was $635.
Thanks for the replies for help and keep this in mind if your or someone else's car is doing this type of thing as the guy at Injectronics (Ken I think) said its a common problem with the VY VZ V8s and strangely they virtually never get the PIM faults in the V6s ( must be a different band/computer).
Thanks Allan