LS1 in my 98 Lux

[Camos]

Well after too many trips along the freeway in my gutlux doing 70 up the hills with Hyundai Getz tooting as they drive past, I have decided to give the old girl a heart transplant.
And what better heart than an LS1!

Bought the motor, tranny, loom, computer and all the other items for a great price from a guy. As it turns out he just gave me the whole car to take home and strip out as I saw fit, and strip I did haha.

Currently engine is all disconnected, mechanically and electrically, the dash is out and all wiring now disappeared, even pulled the leather seats out to do a swap - bonus!

Next on the todo list:
Remove engine
Wiring harness
Bypass Vats somehow
Decide on tx case to be used, if not mine
Organise adapter between tranny and tx case.

http://s44.photobucket.com/user/camos1/media/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/IMG_3104_zpsabup9szz.jpg.html
http://s44.photobucket.com/user/camos1/media/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/IMG_3107_zpsiehwakrm.jpg.html

[Camos]

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/IMG_3107_zpsiehwakrm.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/IMG_3104_zpsabup9szz.jpg

[Hi Octane]

Im toying with the idea of ls'ing my 2000 rodeo 2wd.

[Camos]

So what do you reckon....:confused:

Will it fit? :shock:
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/IMG_3142_zpsecjozw2k.jpg

[whitels1ss]

Seen it done before. :goodjob:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZClO8VKwVlk

Good luck with the project & welcome to the forum mate.

[whitels1ss]

Looks like you have a good sized shed there! :lol:

[Camos]

Haha not really. Have a double garage with a boat, camper trailer, a clapped out VZ with no engine and all my other crap squeezed in there.
That is in the common area and have to move everytime someone wants to go in or out... :cussing:

Got the electric leather seats in and all wired up :woot:
Significantly higher than original seats, better perve height :lol:
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/IMG_3127_zpsat7jf0aj.jpg

Not a straight bolt in, don't know what I was thinking.
A few mods to the seat belt brackets and went in relatively easily.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/IMG_3136_zpsxjfkvuav.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/IMG_3138_zpszunmwyet.jpg

The seats needed a few brackets folded up to align bolt holes and plumb them up

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/IMG_3128_zpsyf4dmph0.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/IMG_3132_zpsfpdzcujp.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/IMG_3133_zpsuzvqtvcb.jpg

[vz hsv]

awesome work dude, maybe this is what i should do for a tow car if i ever get the chance - when/if i build a show car for me and a drag/race car for the mrs!!!

[feistl]

Hey mate,

Firstly i love a good project, well done. But i hate to be the bearer of bad news, but you need to do something better with the seat mounting.

The seats contain the mount for the seatbelt, so it needs to be rated accordingly. Read these documents...

VSI 19 (https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=8&ved=0ahUKEwixvuTjwufNAhVFoZQKHX9yB30QFghQMAc&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.vicroads.vic.gov.au%2F~%2Fme dia%2Ffiles%2Fdocuments%2Fsafety-and-road-rules%2Fvsi19_web.pdf%3Fla%3Den&usg=AFQjCNEgqLVFTjtckgyCSbQc_JRi-k8gBA&sig2=4CILbiIeK2JdUnM4vQJWEw)

VSB 14 (https://infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/pdf/NCOP7_Section_LK_Seating_and_Occupant_Protection_1 Jan2011_v2.pdf) (Specifically page 14 onwards, but worth reading the whole document).

Technically speaking, you need to get an engineering certificate for a seat change and there is no way those modifications will pass.

Secondly, if you keep them as is and are in a crash where the seats/seat belts fail (which they will), you can be criminally charged.

Look for most modifications i tend to look the other way as whether it needs an engineering cert, but anything to do with seats, seat belts, air bags, steering column or brakes need to be done properly.

If you need an idea on how to mount them properly, have a look at my FJ40 build thread. I have an engineer inspect my work at every stage and he was happy with the quality of these seat mounts.

http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?167965-Errols-FJ40-Build-Thread&p=2149540#post2149540

(Post 156 if the link doesn't work)

Essentially the best option is to cut the mounts off the standard seats and have them welded onto the seat frame of the new commodore seats. If welded properly by an experienced welder it should be safe and legal. I know it means destroying the standard seats, but its worth doing.

If you were in Vic id give you a hand...

Anyway good luck with the rest of the project.

Cheers, Errol.

Edit - Oh and if you do decided to get it engineered, cut the airbag wiring so it can be seen and change the seat belt from pretensioner back to standard (will need to be from a VT-VX, and it takes a little modification) as any safety feature installed must be working... Its a stupid rule but having a disconnected airbag (even if the car was never fitted with one) with fail engineering and fair roadworthy.

Its like that stupid CAMS rule where its illegal to have an expired fire extinguisher in the vehicle, even if you don't need to have a working on fitted.

But those are the rules, so just watch out for it.

Cheers

[Camos]

Cheers mate will definitely read. The brackets were just templates I made up to get the angles right. They are getting replaced with stronger mounts and gussets then painted black.
They don't show up well in the photos though.

I did think about cutting the mounts off the old seats but they are different widths and is not a neat and strong way of mounting.
I have an engineer for the build but is on holiday atm so will run it past him on return.

Good point on the srs clips, if it aint there theres no questions :p

Thanks for the reply:cheers:

[Camos]

Got my computer re-flashed today for a hungee :woot:

Then got stuck into the wiring side of things. There are a few things I want to transfer into the lux like cruise, auto lights, cluster and a few of the knobs because they look sexier than my old ones.
After sifting through the mountain of wires I came across the little sucker that controls the VATS. I could have soldered in a resistor and saved my some beer money :cussing:

Anywho moving on. I got all the internal wires sorted, will start on the engine harness over the weekend.
My transfer case adapter turned up yesty, yay!
Next is to pull the 4l60e to pieces and swap the output shafts over.

Ordered the new mufflers also - HSV bi-modal :yup:
Going to rumble they are haha
So my pondering time is spent chewing over how to set up the vacuum solenoids.
I am thinking on, off and auto where they will open at a set rpm range or when you bury the skinny pedal about 70% or more and they then open.
Still more to ponder on that one. Can possibly use the power button on the shifter surround. Also thinking of using the traction control button to hold in gear for off-road work.

[whitels1ss]

Just remembered we have another very large 2 part build thread

from another member who did a ls1 hilux a few years ago

you might be interested in having a read.

http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?123863-ls1-hilux-project

Any more updates on yours yet?:stick::hide:

[Camos]

I have read through that build, sweet build but don't think I could have put in and pulled out everything so many times lol.
Turned out a really good looking truck.

Just going through the wiring atm, trying to keep a few of the items in the car - cruise, AC, DBW etc.
Started on the engine harness this arvo and can't find the pinouts for the PCM.

Is anyone able to help with the PCM Pinouts for a 2004 LS1 with DBW?
It has the blue and green connectors starting with:
GREEN
1. blk/red
2. brn
3. -
4. -
5. blk/wht
6. red
7. -
8. gry/blu
9. grn/wht
10. brn
.
78. -
79. -
80. -

BLUE
1. blk/red
2. lblu/wht
3. prp
4. grn
5. -
6. -
7. blu/yel
8. -
9. -
10. -
.
78. -
79. grn/wht
80. gry/blk

Have searched a ton of sites including LT1swap, there are some that are closeish but want to be sure before removing wires from the harness. Could lead to lots of swearing during maiden startup

[Camos]

My HSV bi-modal zorsts turned up today :yahoo:

I have worked out the vacuum and electronics side of things and how I can build a circuit board and wiring to put a smile on Camos face.
Will have 3 modes:
Off - always closed
On - always open
Auto - normally closed but opens when you bury the skinny pedal to a predetermined setting.
I can adjust this point as needed and will have a time delay when letting off the throttle and closing to get a slow down rumble in fun mode.

It was pretty easy to do and will allow me to fit them as aftermarket option with fair amount of control :dancenana:

[Camos]

Engineer is finally back from holidays so I dropped in to discuss the conversion and find out what his expectations were.
Got to say I was slightly nervous but left fist pumping and ready to start.

He said if there is any pollution gear on there, try and keep it on.
Try and use the standard cats if possible
Try Try Try lmao. He was really great to deal with. I have no doubt it will have to tick all the boxes but will be very easy to get done.

My big question was brakes, seems every man online has a different view.
Some say it will definitely need to be upgraded, some say use better pads, some say will need to convert to all discs and others say it is a commercial vehicle and designed to stop with extra weight and therefore brakes are already sufficient.

The resulting verdict from the man was - Brakes shouldn't be an issue, you don't want the stuff around of upgrading them. We will weigh it on completion and deduct the weight difference off the total load carrying capacity. So instead of max load of a bit over a tonne, it will be a tonne or slightly under. Started with the big smiles knowing this is my man.

Thats about as much as I want to mention here at the moment.

Separated the engine and box the other day so I can replace the output shaft with the new modified one to fit with the adaptor and transfer case.
Noticed the bell housing has a few cracks so will replace that while it is apart. Man those torx screws are a right pain in the ass to get out

[Micks]

Great you made some progress with the engineer, if you still need the FBW 2005 PCM info send us your email!

[duke5700]

I had a friend go through the LS into 2005 Hilux thing. Now 100% engineering and insured. In regards to the brakes, the engineer wanted them upgraded. You can use Prado/Cruiser stuff. Did it with DBA Slotted Rotors and good pads and it was all signed off. Much better peddle feel as well, I always think 4wd utes are a little under braked.




Engineer is finally back from holidays so I dropped in to discuss the conversion and find out what his expectations were.
Got to say I was slightly nervous but left fist pumping and ready to start.

He said if there is any pollution gear on there, try and keep it on.
Try and use the standard cats if possible
Try Try Try lmao. He was really great to deal with. I have no doubt it will have to tick all the boxes but will be very easy to get done.

My big question was brakes, seems every man online has a different view.
Some say it will definitely need to be upgraded, some say use better pads, some say will need to convert to all discs and others say it is a commercial vehicle and designed to stop with extra weight and therefore brakes are already sufficient.

The resulting verdict from the man was - Brakes shouldn't be an issue, you don't want the stuff around of upgrading them. We will weigh it on completion and deduct the weight difference off the total load carrying capacity. So instead of max load of a bit over a tonne, it will be a tonne or slightly under. Started with the big smiles knowing this is my man.

Thats about as much as I want to mention here at the moment.

Separated the engine and box the other day so I can replace the output shaft with the new modified one to fit with the adaptor and transfer case.
Noticed the bell housing has a few cracks so will replace that while it is apart. Man those torx screws are a right pain in the ass to get out

[BLACK 346]

I had a friend go through the LS into 2005 Hilux thing. Now 100% engineering and insured. In regards to the brakes, the engineer wanted them upgraded. You can use Prado/Cruiser stuff. Did it with DBA Slotted Rotors and good pads and it was all signed off. Much better peddle feel as well, I always think 4wd utes are a little under braked.

Good advice. The brakes on my old Hilux were woeful, maybe even worse than a standard Commodore.

[Camos]

Yeah mine were terrible when I bought it, sometimes felt aright and other times felt like almost had to hit the floor to brake. They always stopped but didn't feel too good. I changed the front wheel bearings and are now spot on. Seems the slight wobbling was spreading the pads and needed a double pump to close them up.

Pulled the 4l60e apart and swapped over the output shaft. Tried to do it without removing the valve block... Don't do it. A bit of laziness caused a broken torque converter lockup solenoid oil pipe to break when I levered out the oil pump.

A small little mushroom shaped river also fell out when I pulled the output shaft out. Had me scratching for ages until I realised it was out of the solenoid.
Never pulled a tranny apart and was a bit daunting but all back together except the solenoid which is coming and the valve block.
Need to conform where all the check balls go and I am almost ready to start operating on the old girl.

[Camos]

You don't happen to know what he did with his prop shafts, cv's and other driveline components do you?

[Camos]

Well today the old girl went under anesthesia for the transplant :yahoo:

While disconnecting all the systems I noticed this...
Anyone know what it is?

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/72B3701C-191E-4083-A56D-0F846308C91C_zpsjsidnbqv.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/7F44386C-54D4-4924-A919-A9ABC2EAB624_zpsyi1wwma5.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/51C1780E-BC96-4858-8776-9338CE07F342_zpsijho3dqm.jpg


I have limited height to swing in engines so I took the bonet off and tried to take off the front panels/radiator support only to find them spot welded together :cussing:
Mister Cobalt sorted that out and before you knew it, 2.7l of wasted space was now out :bravo:
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/C703DCF8-2C4D-4663-A1FD-FC7B7E96E453_zpsi6qykhms.jpg


Bolted the adapter on to the box with the transfer case and ready to squeeze into place
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/D1550167-EBC2-4384-9378-6FD3815360FD_zpsjyjxnzgr.jpg

Tomorrow will be engine mounts then sussing out how to connect all services up.
I will then find out how much modifying is needed to be done to the sump pan.
Got a feeling it will be a late one

[Micks]

Could be wrong but that looks like a voltage regulator to me?

[whitels1ss]

Could be wrong but that looks like a voltage regulator to me?

I found the part number with google

http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/89456-30010-198600-6011-Case-For-Toyota-solar-term-door-position-sensor-throttle-sensor-For-Denso/1048167_32244905119.html

Here is my google search for the part number as pictured...

https://www.google.com.au/search?q=toyota+89456+30010+198600+6011&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b&gfe_rd=cr&ei=DdC4V7mZL8XN8gewtIHABQ

The part is listed as a "Term Door Position Sensor"

I still did not know what that was so I google again.:doh:

Found this...

http://ele-tech.com/html/position-sensor-detection-method-of-the-door-in-solar-terms.html

It says.....

"The door in solar terms of the car engine is handled by accelerator pedal by the driver, in order to change the air inflow of the engine, thus control the operation of the engine. Different operation operating modes of the opening sign engine of the door in different solar terms.

For make it meet different requirement of operating mode not to gush out the intersection of oil and quantity, electron control petrol spray system door equip with the position sensor of the door in solar terms at the body in solar terms. It can opening of door convert electric signal to, transport give ECU solar terms, judge as ECU engine turn round basis of operating mode. The position sensor of the door have exporting two kinds outputting type of switch quantity and linear variable resistances in solar terms.

1,Exporting detection of the position sensor of the door of solar terms of the switch amount

( 1) Structure and circuit

The position sensor of the door is also called solar terms the door is turned on or off in the solar terms of exporting type of switch quantity. It has two pairs of contacts, it is the contact of idle speed (IDL) respectively With the full-load contact (PSW) . Controlled the opening of two switches of contact and closed with coaxial cam of the door of solar terms by one. When the door is all in the position closed in solar terms, the contact IDL of idle speed is closed, ECU judges the engine is in the idle speed operating mode according to the closure signal of the idle speed switch, thus control the amount of oil gushed out according to the requirement for the idle speed operating mode; When the door is opened in solar terms, the contact of idle speed is opened, ECU carries on gushing out the oil to control of transition operating mode from the idle speed to little load according to this signal; Full-load contact door close position in the little opening range in opening state straight arrive, all in solar terms, it is at solar terms door open by angle to be certain ‘ it is for 55& deg in bus in Toyota 1G-EU) Position at,it is full-load for contact begin to close,last engine to in full-load to last the signals of operating mode in ECU, ECU carries on full-loadly and adds densely and controls according to this signal. Switch quantity that Toyota 1G-EU engine’s electronic control system spend exporting position sensor of the door of solar terms.

( 2) Switch the intersection of quantity and solar terms of exporting etc. the intersection of door and position sensor check and change ‘ Toyota 1S-E and 2S-E) .

Check the conduction among the end sons on the car

Light a fire and turn on or off and locate & ldquo; OFF” The position, pull out the position sensor connector of the door of next solar terms, meddle in the thickness gage of the appropriate thickness between location screw of the limit of the door of solar terms and location pole of the limit; Use & Omega of universal meter; The shelf measures leading the open situation of contact and full-load contact of idle speed on the position sensor connector of the door of solar terms.

When the door is closed completely in solar terms, the contact IDL of idle speed should be led openly; When the door is open or close and open completely completely in solar terms, the full-load contact PSW should be led openly; Under other opening, two contacts should not be led openly. The detailed conditions are shown in Table 1. Otherwise, should adjust or change the position sensor of the door in solar terms.

2,Linear variable the intersection of resistance and solar terms the intersection of door and detection of position sensor of exporting etc. ‘ 3.0 trucks of imperial crown)

( 1) Structure and circuit

The position sensor of the door is counted by a kind of linear electric potential in linear variable resistance type solar terms, the intersection of sliding and contact that electric potential count the door-hinge is driven since solar terms.

Under the the intersection of door and opening, resistance that electric potential count too different, thus the intersection of door and opening change the intersection of voltage and signal into transport give ECU solar terms in different a solar terms. ECU through solar terms the intersection of door and position sensor, can get, show door to close to all to turn on view, voltage signal changed continuously that make all all solar terms, and the change speed of the opening of the door in solar terms, thus judge the operation operating mode of the engine more accurately. Generally in the position sensor of the door of this solar terms, there is contact IDL of an idle speed too, in order to judge the idle speed operating mode of the engine. .

( 2) Linear variable resistance solar terms the intersection of door and position sensor check, change ‘ Take imperial crown 3.0 as examples)

Contact conduction detection of the idle speed

Light a fire and turn on or off and locate & ldquo; OFF” The position, pull out the wire connector of the position sensor of the door of solar terms, use & Omega of universal meter; The shelf measures leading the open situation of contact IDL of idle speed on the position sensor connector of the door of solar terms. When the door is closed completely in solar terms, should be led openly among IDL-E2 end son (resistance is 0) ; When the door is opened in solar terms,it should lead among IDL-E2 end son it is coherent (resistance is for & infin) . Otherwise should change the position sensor of the door in solar terms.

Measure the resistance that the linear electric potential counts

Light a fire and open? ? ? Locate in OFF position, pull out the wire connector of the position sensor of the door of next solar terms, uses & Omega of the universal meter; The shelf measures the resistance that the linear electric potential counts, this resistance should be able to increase and present linear increase with the opening of the door of solar terms."

Hope that helps.

[Micks]

You could be a spare parts interpreter Ed :lol:

[whitels1ss]

You could be a spare parts interpreter Ed :lol:

Yeah Mick, I could... :lmao::lmao::lmao:

[Hi Octane]

I thought it was a ambient temprature sensor.

[Micks]

Yeah Mick, I could... :lmao::lmao::lmao:

Thank fuk your not mate!


"Term Door Position Sensor"
Don't think I'd approve of that part description! :hide:

[Camos]

Dropped the tank to fit vz fuel pump. They run a return less system and need more juice when dumping it.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/FE2F96E7-06BF-4CCF-9D4D-88EA2E58D4FC_zps8v5n9hy6.jpg
I cut the old flange out and then welded the new cutout from a ute
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/4D73AB1C-C35A-412A-9AD7-97E2C4D7FDCF_zpsrhe21kil.jpg

Running around organising fuel lines, power steering adapters and exhaust pipe.
Also scored a coupler for between the gearbox output shaft and the tx case.
Seems that the old small coupler doesn't want to come off.
Put the wiring harness back on and is almost ready to wire up. Engine mounts will be done tomorrow insert fingers crossed emoji
New bar turned up on the doorstep today.

Big smiles all round

[Camos]

Picked up the longer coupler for the gearbox and transfer case but do you think I could slide that sucker off:cussing:
The advice was use a puller and use some heat but couldn't get a puller over the back of it
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/A276ABE2-4F5B-49DB-BDDC-BACFC2B471FA_zps5ugn6tmm.jpg

Do you think this is what they meant by heat?
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/89295EC3-E913-4506-9E60-7A409895F14D_zpsuy35jjaz.jpg

Accelerator pedal mount fabbed up, pedal arm modded to sit better, clutch and system gone.
Everything is ready - I think - to weld on the mounts and drop in the monster engine :dance:

[JJW501]

Good stuff, I like your style.

Don't suppose they will exchange it for a part that suits your requirements?

[BTS666.0]

Good work man. will be much better with the ls1

[Camos]

Busy day, engine mounts welded up and tacked in position, need to start cross member mods.
Gave whole engine bay a degrease and scrub, looks heaps better.
Fuel pump is giving me the shits. Was leaking around the seal, do you know how hard it was to find a seal without a vin number? Would have though in this day and age it would be just a little easier. Anyway it is now leaking around the part where the wires push into the top plate and have no idea why. Thought was a faulty oring so swapped it out and same deal. Would be nice to get the tank out from under my feet.

A few days ago I had the engine in position as far back as I could go and marked the sump to clear the steering damper. I couldn't cut anymore because of the oil pickup and was cheering because transfer case was in same position. No need to modify drive shafts, right? All seemed good, until I put the engine mounts in and needed to go further back. Couldn't cut the sump more so made s drop bracket for the damper and realized I didn't need to cut the sump at all. Lots of swearing followed.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/AC0B9567-6BC3-4B41-9AA1-59AE9A1AAC5C_zpsddstbwem.jpg

This is prior to final shaping and welding up.

Here is the accelerator pedal mount

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/98CC292D-91E2-4A42-84E5-EC7C718A2AA1_zpswytytqko.jpg


Tomorrow will be cross member, mount engine, fuel tank in (hopefully), fuel lines and power steering lines connected, drive shafts on the lathe and start wondering how on earth I can get some exhaust pipes from engine bay with what seems zero clearance to the underside. Should be easy from then on.

[Camos]

Do you think she will mind?http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/94527A57-FE2C-4411-B83E-BBF50CF8F7D0_zps8rilkz0s.jpg

[jc_sv8]

I hope that's your one out in the shed, my missus would $hit eggrolls !!!

[Camos]

In fairness I did run it past her first.
She was very hesitant and asked what it was...
Oh it's just a crank cover. Just to keep out the dust

I made sure it did a 2 tablet pot wash when she was out haha

[whitels1ss]

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/94527A57-FE2C-4411-B83E-BBF50CF8F7D0_zps8rilkz0s.jpg

Wow!
You must have a very understanding wife mate! :lol:

[Camos]

Exhaust done!
Fuel system done!
Power steering done!
Wires routed and ready to connect.
This baby is almost ready to fire

[Camos]

It sounds freakin awesome


http://s44.photobucket.com/user/camos1/media/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/4A0AB869-4B46-497E-B72D-8AA81E885003_zpsqhnl5hv6.mp4.html

[Camos]

Out of the garage under her own power :yahoo:


http://s44.photobucket.com/user/camos1/media/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/1608B01E-D423-4900-BD80-590551DDC4BF_zpst6nkujkt.mp4.html

[Camos]

Since moving her out, rest of the systems were connected, bonnet and new bull bar is on, air
Box and air inlet modified with map sensor extended. Radiator plumbed up and new fluids throughout.
Took her for a spin up the street and went AWESOME.
I did notice that it wouldn't change out of 1st gear though.
After inspection I noticed there are a bunch of wires on the TCM that aren't connected (oops), would explain things.

Can anyone shed some light on the Tcm pinouts please.
I have the Pcm wiring diagram which was an amazing help getting it to fire but need to dive a little deeper to get it running properly.

Big smile on Camos face right now

[Micks]

Mick has sent you an email ;)

[whitels1ss]

Since moving her out, rest of the systems were connected, bonnet and new bull bar is on, air
Box and air inlet modified with map sensor extended. Radiator plumbed up and new fluids throughout.
Took her for a spin up the street and went AWESOME.
I did notice that it wouldn't change out of 1st gear though.
After inspection I noticed there are a bunch of wires on the TCM that aren't connected (oops), would explain things.

Big smile on Camos face right now



Great work mate! :goodjob:

[amckiwi]

congrats (message to short)

[Camos]

Got the gearbox issue sorted. After chasing the wiring for the whole day I looked at the VSS and noticed that the machines hole in the housing seemed a little small because the VSS oring was showing. So I pulled the oring out and the sensor sits closer to the reluctor.
Man the Hilux is quick lmfao.

Still lots to tidy up but she's on the road :yahoo:

[Micks]

Man I'm glad you got it all sorted & mobile, particularly quick too. If IJ was still around, would be proud of your achievement. :goodjob:

[whitels1ss]

Got the gearbox issue sorted. After chasing the wiring for the whole day I looked at the VSS and noticed that the machines hole in the housing seemed a little small because the VSS oring was showing. So I pulled the oring out and the sensor sits closer to the reluctor.
Man the Hilux is quick lmfao.

Still lots to tidy up but she's on the road :yahoo:

That was quick work!

Fantastic stuff mate! :goodjob:

Any more pics?

[Camos]

Wiring taken care of... For now. Have rolled it all up and pulled the inside out of the upper glove box. The PCM is in the lower glovebox all outta sight. Need to remove a ton of unused wires then pull the dash out and tuck it up and away in there somehow. Might be quite a few pondering beers that weekend
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/CD195B8A-2FC6-4840-8A1D-62F41AE9F1A1_zpsmpvg5jg9.jpg

Engine bay is still a bit of a mess. Lots of tidying up to do there. Rerunning 4wd vac lines etc
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/E661AEB0-BA18-4210-8D4C-A337B56550B3_zpspgha5zkv.jpg

The air box is in serious need of attention. My efforts at plastic welding to the existing box, although totally awesome lol, don't give her the air to breathe when stomping on the skinny pedal. It starves and dies in the ass. Nearly turns the air box inside out in the process.
I am thinking of fabbing up a SS or ally box with big OTR style intake and a butterfly to switch to snorkel when needed.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/B91EB225-BEAB-40E1-9908-96E107F9C020_zps6kyzv6ls.jpg

Still to successfully get the stock temp gauge working so flying blind a bit at the moment and making me a little nervous driving.
It overheats sometimes and I thought it might have been an airlock. Lots of bleeding and filling I think I have it but still taking it easy and staying close to home.
The radiator I had to drop about 100mm so the intake could fit on. Not sure if having the radiator so low could be causing some issues there also.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/BE54D03F-199B-4D02-9936-FA3ADE45ACA6_zpsok1odco1.jpg

Clearance is pretty tight so don't have much room to move things around down there.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/0EA98B03-80B8-4622-86CB-E71D51DBDA22_zpscuzijqez.jpg

Still only a 2wd ATM, the front prop shaft hits the sump of the 4l60 so will do a diff drop to give some clearance
All in all it is coming together and is sooo fun to drive now. I took it for a squirt down our street with the Mrs. And there was a woman at the bus stop on the side of the road when I planted it she put her hands over her ears :lmao:

That is a big tick in the success box

[Camos]

Overheating issues I believe are now sorted. Drove to Blacktown with the new temp gauge normal and no overheating.
On way back I pulled over to double check and went to put back in D... Nothing. WTF!

Turns out you need to put the torque converter in the bell housing when mating it up to the engine and not the other way round.


Result...
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/CDF3A3A4-8F79-4F46-B557-037731E6FE0C_zpsffzevnfu.jpg

Now back in the garage and attempting to pull the box out from underneath to swap out the oil pump.
Note to new conversionists, put the torque converter on the bell housing first.

[Camos]

Thanks for the liking my ute on the back of a towy guys lol.
Well gearbox is out and it's only 245am, easy done.

Would have been so much easier to do with engine, box and Tx case on the floor.
Those torque converter bolts were a bitch. The plastic cover around starter wouldn't come off and wasn't able to get the starter bolts off. Had to drop the sump and access it through the crack with 4 extensions and a socket.
There were 2 bolts on the Tx case that weren't accessible so the whole lot had to come out in one piece. Had the floor crane through the shifter hole and a jack under the sump. A shit load of wiggling lifting pulling grunting cursing and beers we got her out.
Not looking forward to the install.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/93C82430-8980-4E57-8E68-2422234A5402_zpse8251zlb.jpg

[Camos]

The bell housing torx bolts are my favourite.
Got them all out bar 2

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/6128BE94-97F1-4394-9448-4BD0D59765BD_zpsug3vihot.jpg


Here is Camos rooted oil pump. He is now noting the 2 broken tabs and see where they locate into the notches in the TC

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/66AFEB02-462B-496A-A60D-EE60C6D7A04E_zpsz7clwh0l.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/683A8920-068E-4836-948D-E59C2205CE86_zpst9mskd6d.jpg

Been speaking with a transmission guy in Girraween who has been such a help with getting the girl back on the road. Vey knowledgable and wish I had the same conversations prior to doing the work. Live and learn though.

[whitels1ss]

Good to see it won't be a hard fix mate.

You would get some puzzled looks driving that around with the V8 sound theme going on.:lol:

[Micks]

Your not the only member here to xp that swapping in & out of A4's :lol:

[jc_sv8]

Your Giraween must be different to ours. Ours would knock it off not just talk about it...

[Camos]

Picked up the parts today and raced home to continue operating on the girl. Pulled an all nighter finishing at 5am when the alarm went off to get up for work. All done and dusted, ready to take to work.

Only problem is didn't have enough O pos to fill her up :cussing:
Going to steal the Mrs car, going to be pissed about walking the kids to school after coming off night shift

[Camos]

After topping it up with oil she's as angry as ever and back on the road, very happy bowt that.

I'm now planning to lift the radiator and make an air box so did some googling for inspiration and came across an ls1 Hilux.
The throttle body was bolted to a 90deg elbow so it came out to the side rather than facing forward and using the bent intake pipe.
This put the bend at the intake manifold rather than 20-30mm after the throttle body giving significant clearance at the front. Every mil counts :lmao:

The donor car worked for marks and was an R&D project for future kits etc so I called and said it wasn't something they went on to manufacture but had one on the shelf. Was after $325 ish for it and I politely declined. Anyone know what this part is called and where I might be able to source at a more reasonable price?
I have googled my little ass off but came up empty handed, probably because I am not using the right term.
Cheers

[whitels1ss]

Good stuff mate! :goodjob:

[feistl]

did some googling for inspiration and came across an ls1 Hilux.

Care to share the link? Would be good to know exactly what you are referring to...

Cheers

EDIT - http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/mc/efi/intake-elbows.shtml

Alternatively, if you've got a pic i reckon it would be pretty easy to weld something up. Buy a 3.5" mandrel bend, cut some plates out (using the TB as a template) and weld onto the end. If you were in Melbourne id give you a hand...

EDIT 2 - Im thinking something like this but much less crude...

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CPXNGsQ5cXI/UKvtULGAzjI/AAAAAAAAA_w/tPi60Lr5IK0/s1600/IMG_3149.jpg

[Micks]

I'm certain you could get one fabbed up, but whether it would be keener than $325 is another thing?

[Camos]

That's the sort of thing I'm after.
I was looking at the Edelbrock elbows. They are for a carby intake to mount an Ls TB onto but was going to try to modify it. The TB is a 3 bolt and looks like it has a few bolt hole patterns on the TB side. The manifold side is a 4 bolt and might be able to be modified to work.

Here is the link anyway: http://www.4wdaction.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=152142

And the pics in question
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/8C2FF986-AAD9-42ED-99D0-44985100D03D_zpsfg1orync.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/197CEB8F-E114-45AD-B720-637AD062B68F_zpsaffjqyho.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/F067FB70-A838-480A-9CEB-E9E3C1CC54AD_zpsged4mhmf.jpg

This is my current setup with the existing air box
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/BE54D03F-199B-4D02-9936-FA3ADE45ACA6_zpsok1odco1.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/0EA98B03-80B8-4622-86CB-E71D51DBDA22_zpscuzijqez.jpg

I am in Sydney but have fam down in Melb and would consider heading on down to make it up if your keen. Call me weird but I would rather make it up than buy it off the shelf, even if it costs the same or more to do. Love the learning experience.
Yep... Weirdo lol

[Micks]

What's your idea for the Rad fix?

[Camos]

It drove fine into Sydney this morn and over heated while parking with the expansion tank bubbling away like nannas kettle. Seems to be fine while driving along at speed with more airflow. The throttle position could have something to do with it. Will refrain and take it real easy for a bit, just so hard to fight the urge to hear that growl.
If I can move the throttle body I can lift the rad back up and the fan will cover better and be more effective.
Will then sort out a shroud and may even put a second fan on.

I have the fan on a relay that comes on with ignition and stays on the whole time. Just until I get it sorted and are confident the PCM will trigger the relay when needed.
My boggle at the moment is that the old temp sender I put in a sender housing like a radiator hose joiner and wired it directly up to the gauge.
When the thermostat opens and warm water starts to circulate the needle moves up to where it should. But it does t move higher than that. When it over heats you would expect the needle to point high but doesn't.

[feistl]

What sort of angle do you want? (Exactly 90 degrees?) and what sort of bend radius?

If it was me doing it i would buy a 3" or 3.5" Stainless Steel Exchange Mandral bend from here...

http://www.performanceexhaust.com.au/~5165
http://www.performanceexhaust.com.au/p/Mandrel-bends-Stainless/3.5-90MM-45-DEGREE-MANDREL-BEND-STAINLESS-STEEL-EX/15384
http://www.performanceexhaust.com.au/p/Mandrel-bends-Stainless/4-100MM-45-DEGREE-MANDREL-BEND-STAINLESS-STEEL-EXH/15386

3" $30, 3.5" $65 or 4" $70.

Then get some ~10mm stainless steel plate, cut a template out and weld the pipe in place.

If you genuinely want help i will actually be doing a similar modification/project in a couple of weeks. Can probably knock something up then...

[Camos]

Thanks a million Feistl, it will work out and looking forward to seeing your artwork as it's being created.

Still having overheating issues, if I drive it ever so gently and keep moving at 40-50km/h + it seems to go aright but as soon as you go up a hill at low speed it labours a bit and expansion tank starts boiling.

I had an epiphany yesterday that it might be the rad cap. The cap was replaced because the seal was split and is rated at 88kpa where the old one was 108kpa.
I noticed that the commodore caps are around the 125kpa which will significantly increase boiling point of the coolant.

So my questions are these: If I replace the cap with a 125ish rated cap
1 - do you think that an increased cap will prevent the coolant boiling and operate at a normal temp instead of working against the thermostat by reducing flow to increase temp and cause boiling?
2 - any thoughts on the additional pressure on the radiator, will it blow a seal or something?

[feistl]

For those following along at home, i spent a bit of time on Saturday trying to make up an intake pipe but unfortunately it appears the quality of the 3" mandral bends from the Vermont exhaust shop are really low quality. Spent hours trying to weld something up, but just kept blowing holes and wasnt happy with the quality of the welds.

I am going to go back to Richard at Rowville Exhaust Shop and try ordering some more 3" mandral bends, as he provided me the 2.5" bends for the FJ40 exhaust. They were much higher quality and a lot easier to work with.

The other thing I was going to suggest is maybe have a look at Penrite Racing Coolant...

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.php?id_products=98

No idea if it works, i am going to try some in my VX shortly. From my research it seems to have a positive effect...

Also, (not sure if i missed it) but did you post some pics of the thermofan setup?

As for the radiator cap question, not entirely sure. I would assume a higher psi cap should be ok.

Other question is do you have an overflow tank (eg plumbed in on the pressure side) or how are you filling it up? You'll need a reservoir above the engine height so you can bleed the system properly. It might be that you have too much air in the system which would cause the boiling and performance issues...

Cheers

[duke5700]

This was an issue that took some thinking and effort to solve. Yours is an earlier model than what my friend shoe horned his LS into, but it looks rather similar as far as the problems you are having.

Try having a read through this..

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Cooling/

[Micks]

Tend to agree with Errol, if you have an oem rad with rad cap type filler similar to our VZ 5.7-6L models. It then needs to be plumbed the same as VZ LS1 would. Otherwise you need an active/pressurized type tank as fitted to the VT-VY models. Either method should work ok.

[Camos]

I love this site, everyone is so keen to jump in and help out just because they want to, thanks so much everyone for the input.

Went in search for a higher rad cap and highest I could find for my style rad was 16psi so I put it on and it all seems fine, hasn't had an issue since and I have been stuck in some pretty heavy peak hour traffic.
The system is using an expansion tank from the old engine and plumbed up the same as the LS engine with the exception of the line that comes from the TB. It used to go to a port on the pressure side of the rad but now tees into the return line of the heater hose. I bought a temporary digital water temp gauge and put it in just to monitor things while ironing out the bugs, reduce my stress levels while driving around more than anything. A bit on edge ATM, a bus goes past making a hiss and I'm ready to pull over and check things out.

Still wanting to lift the rad though and then will sort out a shroud which will help immensely.
Next project is to remove front diff and rebuild or put in a truetrac and do a diff drop at the time so I can connect the front prop shaft. Still only 2wd because the shaft hits the gearbox sump but should clear when dropping the diff an inch.

[Camos]

New sump turned up today - yay.
Cost me $50 - double yay everywhere else your looking at $500
The old one that I welded up was weeping like a kings cross hooker amd made me nervous like it could spontaneously implode.
Going to be a pain to swap out, need to lift the engine or drop the diff to get enough clearance to get the rear out.

Going into the engineer on Sat so don't want him to see the chicken shit and leaking oil on the sump.

Can anyone tell me if the power button particularly on a VY, does it illuminate when in power mode or out of power mode? Or does it display on the instrument cluster when in power mode?
Cheers

[Camos]

For anyone doing a conversion and wanting to get the reverse lights working with a 4l60... I have worked it out.
Searching google won't shed any light so I though to put it here to help the next guy out.

The white plug in the passenger foot well has 2 wires, a green with silver dots and a brown with blue trace. For a VY/z anyway. Other models may have different colours but still be on same connector.
Snip them and connect one to 12v ignition and the other to your lights. The park neutral switch will close the circuit when reverse is selected.
Obviously do a resistance test with a multi to make sure before snipping and soldering.

Temp gauge is still giving me the shits. Stock one reads normal all the time after the thermostat opens and doesn't move up even if engine gets hot.
The digital gauge is cactus, works occasionally when feels like it.

[Camos]

Started making up an adaptor to relocate the TB.
Used a spacer as a template and used plasticine and formed over the spacer.
Then poured cornice cement over and pulled out the plasticine. Then used resin and fibreglass mat to create the flanges. Sorry didn't get pics of this process.
I used a length of pbc and filled it with expanding foam and then the old pie cut trick to get the bends how I wanted.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/A5BB89B5-8C07-4132-A1C4-0F4811FBE93E_zpsvy9u7v6h.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/1F423951-FD5B-44D8-A9FC-254C864A1326_zpslbmcimjy.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/E7FF5D04-4826-4CA1-8AAF-7F15A2EC62F8_zpscoq1fjji.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/508BF1B2-6031-4731-831F-211B255BACCC_zpsezi8pho0.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/D12617DC-DE00-41C0-A355-519F1E77C83B_zpsjhzp30ei.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/801BC5E5-ED6B-4950-9997-8D811B07FAFD_zpssaqasvh8.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/3E005311-5B28-4628-99D3-3B62CC9A6A4A_zpsfpps41ed.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/9D42E868-4578-4361-9825-A979D4DAF2DD_zpsvrbmfcyt.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/D29DA1A8-721E-4DEE-844E-E8A7AFA33228_zps3mrq8wwm.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/CD60956C-3FB1-4EE3-B6C3-52572884F23F_zpsa17wepre.jpg

[Camos]

Started wrapping in carbon fibre. Not as easy as first thought, but then again it's a fairly complex shape for a first attempt... that's how I roll

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/769829D9-738A-43CF-A139-AF17C77DB610_zpshrbyxcul.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/552DAC86-1283-4AC7-908E-D885F9529968_zpsj184xk5p.jpg

[whitels1ss]

Geez....:shock:

You are not shy to have a go at making things yourself mate! :goodjob:

[Camos]

Final epoxy coat on the adapter. Came up really well and happy with the result.
The air box in the background had a little bit to go and will be ready for the weekend
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/D996F5B6-62E8-4228-9DF5-C99FBDDF249B_zpsliaeivvj.jpg

[Camos]

Final coat on air box, finally. Need to weld up the end cap and polish. Looks a bit ordinary in the pics when wet with light reflecting off it but really looks the goods.
The inlet pipe is offset to line up with new position of the TB.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/D0A3BA08-D885-4919-846C-A10E496D4DC1_zpspt70rtme.jpg

[Camos]

It fits and the bonet even closes :yahoo:

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/FB2A7AF8-E4AB-4C13-8FA6-789846D00867_zpsbnhhefe0.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/0DDF2FB9-18C9-45E4-872A-0C90FA097BFE_zpskgxsiczi.jpg

[Micks]

It certainly doesn't look outta place! :thumbsup:

[Camos]

The air box bracket to use existing bolt holes

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/54B4785C-189E-40B9-8071-6387BA39F813_zpsg2rmnmhc.jpg

Ran a bead of silicon on the first layer, then put 2 more layers over top. This gave a ridge down the length and added a shit load of strength.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/B89C71AC-8C4F-40DC-89FA-FFCDBC96296D_zpsgicz45yb.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/06975B1A-D66C-47FA-BF5C-FBC135E2B3C8_zpslzw6nc51.jpg

[Camos]

Next is the air box for the pod filter. Polishing up end plate tonight and will mount the MAF on the pod and join to TB with sexy silicone hose.
That is unless any other suggestions come forth.
I was going to make up a carbon tube but though might be too much.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/860066CA-47F6-4DD3-9621-5278622E5C29_zps3hszxgxm.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/8A534A2D-B211-40D3-82ED-36AD279C5AE6_zpsttpupzmc.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/EC3B5DA6-D2E7-4877-B375-4B7E7A1BC3C9_zpswixhumup.jpg

[Camos]

Still needs a bit of tidying up but this is the general idea.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/141EABD0-A159-4DC5-AE7B-3AB72CDB5E48_zpsshr7rwt8.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/26D9AB3A-16DF-4A26-9CC6-CA1CBDDFC2A5_zpsjeaa0khx.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4/camos1/LS1%20Hilux%20Conversion/6BA533E5-F44D-4DAF-A05C-45B6EE8F1406_zpsrtkix2xe.jpg

[Micks]

Looks brilliant Cam! Probably a lot safer than it was too. :thumbsup:

[Camos]

Might look the part and sounds better but it doesn't go as well as it did with the old air box and 4 cal filter. It whistles and dies in the ass with less throttle than before.:(
Will have to make up a secondary intake port in the air box for on road driving that can shut off when off road.
1 step forward and two back argh.

[Micks]

This won't stop you from getting it all ticked off with the engineer though? Guessing with any engine replant there is always some teething issues :rofl:

[Camos]

Spent the weekend on the car sorting out a few things.
After fitting the adapter and air box to give me more room, radiator was lifted 100mm back to original position. I mounted 2 fans on an aluminium shroud and the cooling effect is crazy different. Temp cools quicker while driving at lower speeds and when hot the fans cool it down rather than the temp still climbing.

Didn't get pics sorry but will snap a few tomorrow when doing a bit more tidying up.

My question to the infinite intelligence is regarding the thermo fan signal.
I believe the bcm controls the thermo fans but I don't have one. I have 2 wires from the PCM for hs and ls cooling fans. When engine is running there is 12v when put the voltmeter on the pos terminal and each of the wires so I thought it may lose signal when gets hot but this is not the case. I couldn't find any voltage change in the wires I could use to run a relay.
Any thoughts on how I might be able to connect the thermo fans up to run automagically.
They used to be running of ignition but today I have some wires I twist together in the cab to turn them on. Don't laugh too hard.

Any suggestions appreciated

[Micks]

Hi Cam fans should operate by pcm, that's not to say the bcm is not signalled. See diagram.

4719

[Camos]

Switching the earth... interesting. This might just work, thanks Mick.

I cut a hole and put a 65mm socket in the bottom of the air box that I will run the the front grill as a bit of a ram inlet.
Took it for a spin and oh sweet mumma :shock:
My god she pulls freakin hard, and just keeps pulling :woohoo:
I reckon I have recovered 50kw from feeding more air

Heating issues are better but still not ideal. It was a crazy hot day here today but still getting hot and once hits 110 and still in the sun and traffic the temp keeps on climbing.
Potentially heat trapped in the bonnet needs venting may help.
Looking into a custom rad also

[Micks]

Yes that's not uncommon for PCM's to switch out negatives to devices.

[Camos]

Took the camper down to the Grampians for my bros wedding on Friday. Was going like a jet till almost Albury when fried the 3/4 clutch pack :cussing:

Limped 30k into Albury in 2nd gear, hire car for the rest of the trip then went back down to trailer her back home.
She's on the table, just finished dropping the gearbox, rebuild kit came this morn ready to install tomorrow.
An expensive adventure

[whitels1ss]

Hope you get some better luck soon mate!

Lurve your work btw! :cheers: