HZ L98 coversion

[D_BLOCK]

Hey lads can anyone link me to a thread for a LS conversion into an H series Holden . Ive picked up a mint condition HZ with a non factory 308 etc etc but have also brought a mates wrecked VE ute with an L98 and m6 .

Im looking at CRS for mounts , headers , reverse sump , x member etc and probably sideshow or the likes for the harness . Just have to source out a T400 adaptor , mechanical throttle body , and any other hidden extras .

I want to obviously minimise down time and dollars by getting it right the 1st time , so any help would be very much appreciated.

cheers lads

PS...photos to come tomorrow , currently working away.

[Micks]

Great project! I'd be inclined to keep the L98 FBW throttle body, just a matter of getting sideshow to mod that VE loom to suit, otherwise your up for a Holley mech one.
You won't need a new Xmember just engine mount adapter back to the orig. GM/Chevy ones as the HQ/HZ uses anyhow.
Have subscribed to this & look forward to the progress.

[D_BLOCK]

Thanks mick .

Im really looking forward to it myself . Ive just come off a 4 month job doing some stupid hours and decided to spoil myself with a project car that my 2 boys and I could work on together . I hadnt actually thought about keeping the FBW as all the old info i could find led me to believe it would need to go mechanical , even better if I can keep it .

I will be selling a lot of the VE off as well after I wreck it so if the dollar stretches far enough I will look at swapping out the cam and putting a 150 shot of nos up it . The VE is cammed but my mate has no idea what profile and as the side is all written off i cant drive it to gauge weather its streetable or not . If its no good out it comes .

[D_BLOCK]

I thought I better get some pics up

http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah101/hzkingswood/car2202_zpsdiyqzvck.jpg (http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/hzkingswood/media/car2202_zpsdiyqzvck.jpg.html)
http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah101/hzkingswood/car3202_zpscqyulsvs.jpg (http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/hzkingswood/media/car3202_zpscqyulsvs.jpg.html)
http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah101/hzkingswood/car6%202_zpsbn3y4fti.jpg (http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/hzkingswood/media/car6%202_zpsbn3y4fti.jpg.html)
http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah101/hzkingswood/car4_zpswmet69vj.jpg (http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/hzkingswood/media/car4_zpswmet69vj.jpg.html)
YES ORIGINAL KMS
http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah101/hzkingswood/car5%202_zpslpwd0oy3.jpg (http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/hzkingswood/media/car5%202_zpslpwd0oy3.jpg.html)
And heres the donor , sorry I incorrectly stated a VE when its a VZ with the L98. Just click on the pic
http://vid1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah101/hzkingswood/car7_zps78fvjspg.mp4

[D_BLOCK]

Does anyone have dimensions for the diff from a VN or can confirm if they are a straight swap into the H series ? Im just about over the drum brakes and want them gone ASAP. Also whats the power rating on the T700 box if I do secure a vn wreck and use the diff and auto from it?

cheers lads

[Micks]

I reckon the Salisbury rear end with a set of discs would do it nicely as IJ done with his LE project recently.
http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?169553-Project-LE/page8&highlight=Project Post#304

[D_BLOCK]

I reckon the Salisbury rear end with a set of discs would do it nicely as IJ done with his LE project recently.
http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?169553-Project-LE/page8&highlight=Project Post#304

Thanks Mick i'll go have a look

[SASLS1]

McDonald Bros Racing sell a Street Rear Disk brake kit with internal shoe hand brake that will bolt straight onto your drum brake Salisbury diff.

Various rotors sizes are available.

http://www.mcdonaldbrosracing.com.au/streetrearbrake.html (http://www.mcdonaldbrosracing.com.au/streetrearbrake.html)

Also if you change your mind and put the 6 speed manual in, Malwood sell a bolt in underdash hydraulic pedal setup too.

http://www.malwoodauto.com.au/index.php?page=underdash_hydraulics (http://www.malwoodauto.com.au/index.php?page=underdash_hydraulics)

[Angeldust]

I love HQ-HZ's so im going to spoil the party and suggest you keep it as original as possible. It looks very tidy already.

[D_BLOCK]

I love HQ-HZ's so im going to spoil the party and suggest you keep it as original as possible. It looks very tidy already.

Valid point mate and believe me Ive had the mental battle of "should I just leave her the way she is" . I actually brought her from one picture sent through to me and didn't realise until a couple of weeks later when more pics started coming in just how good she was . The exterior and interior wont be changing though just the drive line .

[D_BLOCK]

McDonald Bros Racing sell a Street Rear Disk brake kit with internal shoe hand brake that will bolt straight onto your drum brake Salisbury diff.

Various rotors sizes are available.

http://www.mcdonaldbrosracing.com.au/streetrearbrake.html (http://www.mcdonaldbrosracing.com.au/streetrearbrake.html)

Also if you change your mind and put the 6 speed manual in, Malwood sell a bolt in underdash hydraulic pedal setup too.

http://www.malwoodauto.com.au/index.php?page=underdash_hydraulics (http://www.malwoodauto.com.au/index.php?page=underdash_hydraulics)



Thanks mate , I didnt realise how far we have come with these conversion kits . Might be a case of searching the net more rather than the wreckers.

[SASLS1]

You can even buy Harrop Truetrac's for Holden Salisbury's too...

https://www.harrop.com.au/shop/automotive-performance/performance-driveline/automotive-differential/truetrac-differential-holden-salisbury-28-spline (https://www.harrop.com.au/shop/automotive-performance/performance-driveline/automotive-differential/truetrac-differential-holden-salisbury-28-spline)

But if your going to spend some money, spend some more a go a 9 inch, and have infinite gear ratio choice...


CRS HP mounts are nicer and $100 cheaper than tuff mounts.

http://www.rodshop.com.au/index.php/holden/hq-hj-hx-hz-wb/holden-hq-hj-hx-hz-wb-ls1-hp-engine-mounts.html (http://www.rodshop.com.au/index.php/holden/hq-hj-hx-hz-wb/holden-hq-hj-hx-hz-wb-ls1-hp-engine-mounts.html)

[D_BLOCK]

So after bleeding the brakes for a 3rd time , and after re-kitting the proportioner valve (rear seal was spewing fluid) it seems that the pedal still wants to gradually sink to the floor after a quick run . I cant see any sign of leaks so would I be right to assume the check valve in the booster is shot? And if so am I better off getting a new one or taking the existing to get refurbished or even doing it myself ? ( never pulled one apart)

cheers

[Micks]

Jason are you sure the master is a problem too?

[D_BLOCK]

Jason are you sure the master is a problem too?

Is there a way to test them Mick?

[Micks]

Besides a visual but you general need to remove & dismantle, they can leak from the booster end & plunger/piston can score or rust in the bore.

[D_BLOCK]

Ive given it s good going over and cant see any source of leak or air contamination thats why im stumped

[D_BLOCK]

Ok getting the bits and pieces together for the Th400 trans . Am I right in thinking that I can just go with the ATP flex plate and wont need to go a spacer ?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atp-z270

[Micks]

Ive given it s good going over and cant see any source of leak or air contamination thats why im stumped

Jason you can get em reco, but probably cheap as for a newy these days.

[D_BLOCK]

Jason you can get em reco, but probably cheap as for a newy these days.

Yeah ive just priced up both and there isnt alot in it really . May as well go new and she will last another 40 years .

[D_BLOCK]

A few things accomplished trying to juggle a business and a hobby . New brake booster installed, new oil pressure sensor as the old one was pissing out , new temp sensor , got a road worthy , TH400 box with 3500 stall ordered , flex plate for conversion ordered , will have wiring harness out tomorrow and can send it off to justin to mod . And , with any luck the engine , box , diff and brakes will be off the ute by the end of the weekend .

[D_BLOCK]

Ok , so the engine and box is out . Wiring harness is all cleaned up ready to post off to justin to mod . The engine has had several coats of degreaser to make her nice and peerty and I pulled the sump to check for any fillings or bent rods....all is in excellent condition . tomorrow the diff and brakes come out.
http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah101/hzkingswood/Mobile%20Uploads/20160820_094656_zpsveqgkjbp.jpg (http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/hzkingswood/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160820_094656_zpsveqgkjbp.jpg.html)

[D_BLOCK]

Very slow progress today .
Removed the wiring harness through out the ute , let me just say its a complete pr1ck when the body is damaged and all folded over and you have to cut , drill , and prize panels apart to get to the trapped loom and connectors .
Full credit today goes to AEG recipro saw and another mate of mine , the 125mm grinder :D

[feistl]

Hey mate,

Can i make a recommendation?

With the engine out, id do a bit of preventative maintenance. Eg, change the oil pickup o ring, the sump gasket, rear main seal. Not sure how many kms the engine has done, but depending on budget and skillset its almost worth pulling the motor down and putting a new set of bearings in and maybe a small cam. Much easier to do it with the engine out than down the track.

You'd be surprised how little it costs in parts to "rebuild" an engine and how relatively easy it is (if the engine is in reasonable condition).

Cheers,

[D_BLOCK]

Hey mate,

Can i make a recommendation?

With the engine out, id do a bit of preventative maintenance. Eg, change the oil pickup o ring, the sump gasket, rear main seal. Not sure how many kms the engine has done, but depending on budget and skillset its almost worth pulling the motor down and putting a new set of bearings in and maybe a small cam. Much easier to do it with the engine out than down the track.

You'd be surprised how little it costs in parts to "rebuild" an engine and how relatively easy it is (if the engine is in reasonable condition).

Cheers,

Thanks mate , all recommendations taken onboard. The engine has 170xxx km and while I did pull the sump and windage tray and had a look throughout , and it all looked good , I am tempted to throw a known cam into it (current cam unknown) . I'll try and find a "how too " in regards to bearings etc.. . If there is anything else to watch out for or to replace during the conversion im definitely all ears.

thanks guys

[feistl]

Well this is just my theory, id focus on all the things that require the engine to be removed from the car...

So piston rings, main and rod bearings, oil pickup o ring, sump gasket, rear main seal, camshaft.

Things like lifters, springs, etc can all be done with the engine in place at a later date if required.

For what its worth (not sure about LS1), but i recently had a couple of VT 5L (304) engines freshed up. Basically paid for the block to be power honed, crank was linished, new set of piston rings, bearings and all gaskets for about $600. Although the engines didn't specifically need it as the parts hadnt worn out, it was easy with the engine already out. Plus putting new head gaskets on means you can pull the heads down and clean the valves etc. Again depends how much you want to do yourself, but its all pretty easy once you get started.

Theory is now that work is done the engine should be good for another 100,000km+.

[whitels1ss]

Hey mate,

Can i make a recommendation?

With the engine out, id do a bit of preventative maintenance. Eg, change the oil pickup o ring, the sump gasket, rear main seal. Not sure how many kms the engine has done, but depending on budget and skillset its almost worth pulling the motor down and putting a new set of bearings in and maybe a small cam. Much easier to do it with the engine out than down the track.

You'd be surprised how little it costs in parts to "rebuild" an engine and how relatively easy it is (if the engine is in reasonable condition).

Cheers,

Great advice! :goodjob:

[Micks]

My experience with the latter LS1's bottom ends were generally bullet proof, things that generally need attention depending on it's life around 150K+ is springs, oil pumps & lifters & possibly rocker trunions as well.

[D_BLOCK]

Well this is just my theory, id focus on all the things that require the engine to be removed from the car...

So piston rings, main and rod bearings, oil pickup o ring, sump gasket, rear main seal, camshaft.

Things like lifters, springs, etc can all be done with the engine in place at a later date if required.

For what its worth (not sure about LS1), but i recently had a couple of VT 5L (304) engines freshed up. Basically paid for the block to be power honed, crank was linished, new set of piston rings, bearings and all gaskets for about $600. Although the engines didn't specifically need it as the parts hadnt worn out, it was easy with the engine already out. Plus putting new head gaskets on means you can pull the heads down and clean the valves etc. Again depends how much you want to do yourself, but its all pretty easy once you get started.

Theory is now that work is done the engine should be good for another 100,000km+.

If the price for the 5ltr is comparative to the LS stuff I would be mad not to swap out the internals by the sounds of it. I can see we are slowly creeping towards stroker territory here haha

[D_BLOCK]

Can I get some suggestions on fuel systems?

Im thinking that as soon as I lean on the current setup (if it will even work in its current config?) thats its going to run out of steam .
Being a visual kinda person any diagrams would be hugely appreciated.

cheers lads.

[Micks]

If the price for the 5ltr is comparative to the LS stuff I would be mad not to swap out the internals by the sounds of it. I can see we are slowly creeping towards stroker territory here haha
Before you go there a simple comp. test would reveal how good the general health of the motor is!

[D_BLOCK]

Before you go there a simple comp. test would reveal how good the general health of the motor is!

On point as usual Mick :goodjob:

[D_BLOCK]

Not much to report .

I sent off the loom to Justin today to work his magic . Ordered the cross member and engine mounts today and should be here early next week . Im getting mucked around with the TH400 and stall so if anyone can recommend some where that wont muck me around that would be great . Im working off a budget up to 3k inc stall and the box im supposed to have by now is rated to 600 hp.

cheers

[D_BLOCK]

UPDATE.
Some goodies have started to turn up . Im looking at "baby" cams also , so alot of re-reading of profiles in regards to stall speeds ( A cam for a manual was never this hard to decide) .

http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah101/hzkingswood/car1_zpsjohglw87.jpg (http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/hzkingswood/media/car1_zpsjohglw87.jpg.html)

http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah101/hzkingswood/car_zpss4p25rr3.jpg (http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/hzkingswood/media/car_zpss4p25rr3.jpg.html)

http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah101/hzkingswood/car3_zpsx5tggp7s.jpg (http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/hzkingswood/media/car3_zpsx5tggp7s.jpg.html)

http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah101/hzkingswood/car6_zps1dzzarmj.jpg (http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/hzkingswood/media/car6_zps1dzzarmj.jpg.html)

http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah101/hzkingswood/car4_zpsc27apjvn.jpg (http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/hzkingswood/media/car4_zpsc27apjvn.jpg.html)

http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah101/hzkingswood/car2_zpskueqnjrd.jpg (http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/hzkingswood/media/car2_zpskueqnjrd.jpg.html)

[D_BLOCK]

Things have slowed a little , not for a lack of want but due to my business and im looking at buying some land and building our 1st house :yahoo: .
And the wife suggested very assertively that I am " not to pull apart a perfectly driveable kingswood until we get the garage built at the new house " , some time it just pays not to argue....especially if i'm to hide the cost of a 2 post hoist into the price of the garage :D . So really , the only thing new is Justin modded up the loom and i received it the other week and a mate of mine also gave me a TCE 3k stall to try out , apart from that things may go quiet for a couple of months.

[Micks]

Yes Jason some things in life are more important & best keep the minister of Finance on side :lol:

[D_BLOCK]

Yeah it makes for an easier life mick :lmao:

[whitels1ss]

Yes Jason some things in life are more important & best keep the minister of Finance on side :lol:

Nah...

A great motto in life is that “it is always easier to get forgiveness than permission” :yup::yup::yup:






























(said a divorced man) :hide:

[Micks]

Nah...

A great motto in life is that “it is always easier to get forgiveness than permission” :yup::yup::yup:





























(said a divorced man) :hide:

How did I know you'd say that...:lmao:

[whitels1ss]

im looking at buying some land and building our 1st house :yahoo: .
And the wife suggested very assertively that I am " not to pull apart a perfectly driveable kingswood until we get the garage built at the new house "

Your wife is a clever woman,
she has dangled you a big carrot! :lol:

[D_BLOCK]

Your wife is a clever woman,
she has dangled you a big carrot! :lol:

I think part of it is reverse psychology on her part and im sure to get stitched up some where along the way haha . She's busy going on about tile colours , this type of facade or underfloor heating and im like what ever . Just let me know how much back yard I can have for my garages .

On a side note , she did say very explicitly not to touch the Kingswood ....BUT she did not say I could not install a twin turbo kit from Goat performance onto the VF , ive been in touch with a couple of workshops so stay tuned :thumbsup:

[whitels1ss]

Sounds like a very good woman mate! :yup: