Errol’s VZ L76 Berlina Wagon

[feistl]

Hey guys,

Thought I’d start a build thread for my new ride…

I setup a carsales alert 3+ years ago looking for a 2006 built VZ Berlina Wagon with the L76 6L V8 engine. As these are incredibly rare (there was just 11 VZ Wagons made with this engine combination, all of which are Berlina’s), I hadn’t seen a single (correctly) advertised one show up. Until Friday.

An alert appeared on Friday morning from a dealership in Dee Why in NSW (North of Sydney). I placed a call to a salesman a few hours later half expecting it to be another mis-listed LS1, but after a confirmation picture of the build plate and engine bay it turned out to be the real deal. Without having even seen a picture of the car I started negotiated with the salesman, 2 hours later I put down a deposit and started booking flights.

So here are the details…



Holden VZ Berlina Wagon
March 2006 build date
L76 6.0L V8 engine and 4 speed automatic (4L65-E)
70,349km (Single owner, full service history).
Only modifications are a set of HPC coated Pacemaker extractors, everything else is 100% stock.


Originally listed as $12000, I got it for $11250 with a full tank of fuel.

Car was ready for collection on Wednesday morning (21st/09/2016), so I got up at 3:30am to get to the airport by 5am for a 6am flight to Sydney. Caught a train and 2 buses out to the Dee Why and after a 20 minute walk arrived at the dealership just before 10am. Spent 20 minutes filling in the paperwork and handed over a bank cheque, then the car was mine. Just as I was leaving one of the head salesman came over to chat about the car, apparently they’d had over a dozen calls and several offers since I put the deposit down. I don’t think he was overly happy they’d sold it too cheap, especially when I told him there are only 11 in existence and are pretty sought after lol. Anyway one of the few occasions a customer can get the better of a used car salesman.

So left the dealership at 10:30am and headed back to Melbourne. Along the way I took a detour into southern ACT and picked up a set of mint condition VE SS 19” wheels which had been machined to suit the VZ for just $550 (Bargain). They don’t have a single mark on them…

From there came back down through Cooma/Omeo/Barnsdale. Car drove brilliantly, no squeaks/rattles/noises etc, felt really tight and planted. The engine, even in stock form, is miles ahead of the LS1. Very smooth, lots of low down torque and revs nicely. The power assist brake setup works well, the transmission was brilliant (I hate autos, but this shifted very nicely) and it has a pretty nice note to it.

Got home at 9:30pm (1007km in 10h40m with an average fuel figure of 10.1L/100km which is pretty good considering my heavy foot and tight/twisty mountain roads around Omeo).

So more importantly here are the pics (unwashed, after doing 1000km yesterday)…

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/VZ%2001%20Large_zpsxkjxjgfi.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/VZ%2002%20Large_zpsppf4j0bi.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/VZ%2003%20Large_zpsxobpsokd.jpg

Bug count wasn't too bad for 1000km, maybe too wet for the bugs?

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/VZ%2004%20Large_zps129gbxnr.jpg

Looks like a L76

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/VZ%2005%20Large_zpstlnvufoa.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/VZ%2006%20Large_zps20v6nbkj.jpg

Id say so :thumbsup:

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/VZ%2007%20Large_zps1m9q9tyv.jpg

HPC Coated Pacemakers

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/VZ%2008%20Large_zpspdkgypfc.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/VZ%2009%20Large_zpsibcrowqp.jpg

Drivers seat bolsters look like they've had minimal wear

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/VZ%2010%20Large_zpsiq0qg1uz.jpg

As well as floor mats its also had a rear cargo mat in the rear for (i assume) its whole life.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/VZ%2011%20Large_zps2jtew4f5.jpg

Very clean under all mats...

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/VZ%2012%20Large_zpsq9z6x8lg.jpg

All 4 wheels look like this.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/VZ%2013%20Large_zps39bmghrx.jpg


There are a few minor marks (especially around the rear bumper bar) and the interior center console has some wear, but other than that it’s very straight and very very clean.

Mods?

Well here is the plan. Starting with the engine, as per my other ebay sale thread I have ordered a L76 DoD/camshaft replacement kit from Tuff Parts.

Normally listed as $2034, with 15% discount I paid $1734 delivered for the following parts:



VCM Performance camshaft (VCM-11, 225/232 .578"/.590" @112.5)
PAC Racing 1219 – 625” Valve Springs
Manley retainers
Hardened steel locks
ARP Balancer Bolt
7.450" Chromoly Pushrods
Rollmaster Single Row timing chain set
ARP Cam bolt set
GM L98 Valley Plate
GM L98 Lifter Buckets
GM L98 Lifter Bolts
GM Replacement Lifters
GM 6.0L Head Gaskets (2)
Aftermarket performance Head Bolts (full set)


The parts actually arrived before the car lol.

Next mod…?

Heres a hint...

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/VZ%2014%20Large_zps4jwfqmzg.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/VZ%2015%20Large_zpsju55wy4d.jpg

A very low km Tuet2066 M12 T56 gearbox from a HSV Z Clubsport including singlemass flywheel, clutch/pressure plate, master/slave cylinder and HSV Short Shifter.

When I do the gearbox conversion ill pull out the engine to fit the new parts including an improved racing sump/baffle system (left over from the VX when I changed to a custom ASR sump), new sump gasket, rear main seal, spigot bearing and I’ll do a quick inspection of the bearings/cylinder walls.

Then the plan is to swap over a bunch of parts from my VY Berlina wagon. EG



PBR 330mm HSV Clubsport brakes (New DBA Slotted rotors, new Ferodo DS2500 pads)
King Springs, Monroe Shocks, GM Strut Tops
3.91:1 Diff with Trutrac Centre
2.5” Twin Xforce Exhaust System (With new 100cpi Cats)
VCM Aluminum OTR
Complete Stereo System (Inc subs and amps)
HSV VZ GTS Gearstick
VZ HBD Leather Steering Wheel
VZ SS Front Seats and sports pedals
SaaS Gauges in HSV pod
Then fit the new VE SSV 19” rims (with new rubber)
Get the windows tinted and detail the body.


I am also toying with the idea of fitting a WL Grange Instrument Cluster… Thoughts?

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/VZ%20Cluster_zpsrjimzaks.jpg

Firstly though I need to get it roadworthied/registered (It has a NSW pink slip, but needs a Vic one). After that I’ll start on the modifications…

Won’t be for another 3-4 weeks though as I simply can’t afford the registration lol. Eventually I’ll sell off the VY wagon to recoup a bit, just cashflow is going to be tight till next payday.

Although the timing wasn’t brilliant (as I needed to act quickly), I am really excited and happy with the purchase.

To find such a rare car with so few kms and in such good/stock condition is amazing, considering the price it’s almost unbelievable.

Cheers

[Micks]

Errol yes you have a great example there :goodjob:
The L76 is rare in the fact only the last 2006 VZ's had them as GM had to comply with the new adr rules that this 6L would do. I did the same thing 4 1/2 years ago when I bought my Crewman as I looked long & hard to find the 6L which I did finally in Nth Qld. I know you already bought the dod delete kit though some of these were already done under warranty due to early failures. I too was one of these who made the assumption mine was dod equipped but found on pulldown was already converted to an L98! These engines have the better oil pump due to dod but a good mod is to block off the secondary oil feed. Search on this board as Simon done a great write up using a stepped plug that works a treat. My full noise oil pressure increased approx. 20 psi with that mod.

[aussiebbq]

Wow I would love one of these. The dealer obviously had no idea what they had. Would be kicking themselves if they did.

[Micks]

Wow I would love one of these. The dealer obviously had no idea what they had. Would be kicking themselves if they did.

I think it's more the case of the age of vehicle now & lots of peeps are dropping their beloved 6L for the VF2 6.2L :drool:

[BLACK 346]

Great pickup mate, and she looks mint. Have you considered decking the heads whilst they are off? My L76 with VCM21 cam and decked heads made 294rwkw on a Mainline Dyno, through the 6l80E.

PS.. How easy are VCM to deal with. Quality products and great customer service, can't say the same for a lot of other performance parts businesses.

[whitels1ss]

Great pick up Errol. :goodjob:

[Smitty]

.. sweet deal !

[team illucid]

nice pickup

[Bling Bling]

Nice but if it is a rare car why modify it ???? you have just lost the value of it.

[Toddler78]

Just cause it is rare doesn't mean it's valuable. Nice car but it's just a commodore wagon at the end of the day.

[Bling Bling]

Over a dozen call and offers sounds rare and valuable to me for a commodore.

[feistl]

some of these were already done under warranty due to early failures.

Good info, thanks mate.

Anyway i can tell before i pull the motor out?


The dealer obviously had no idea what they had. Would be kicking themselves if they did.

Yep, made sure to tell them AFTER i had signed the paperwork and had the keys in my hand.


Great pickup mate, and she looks mint. Have you considered decking the heads whilst they are off? My L76 with VCM21 cam and decked heads made 294rwkw on a Mainline Dyno, through the 6l80E.

Cheers mate. Yeah, although anyone have any idea how much i can take off before i have PTV clearance issues? I want it to be a straight forward engine build. Also, how much of a power bump would the higher compression give?

What are the specs of the VCM 21 camshatft?


Nice but if it is a rare car why modify it ???? you have just lost the value of it.

True, although its never going to be worth big dollars, id rather modify and enjoy the car for the next 5+ years and lose a few grand than keep it mint but boring just to make a few bucks.

Plus a Manual 6L VZ Berlina Wagon with low kms will be pretty valuable as well. I got a lot of calls on my Manual VY Berlina Wagon at $16k...


Thanks for the rest of the comments guys. :D

EDIT - Also theres a similarly low km VZ Berlina Sedan (http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Holden-Berlina-2006/SSE-AD-4264042/?Cr=0) in SA currently listed at $21,000....
Its nice, but $21k is asking a lot. I mean the Wagon is probably more sought after as its physically larger than the VE wagons so is kinda the best of the "large" wagons ever made. But the sedan (IMO) inst really special enough as the VE Sedan equivalent is a much better car.
EDIT Again - Especially when you can get a VZ Calais (http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Holden-Calais-2006/SSE-AD-4193807/?Cr=1) with the 6L.

[whitels1ss]

Over a dozen call and offers sounds rare and valuable to me for a commodore.

Yeah, if you believe everything a salesperson says Neil.

I think there may have just been a little bit of exaggeration there. :lol:

[Blue]

You have a sickness errol!

[BLACKVE]

Nice, always like the Berlina V8 had a VX series 2 ls1 loved the comfy seats they had....

[BLACK 346]

Cheers mate. Yeah, although anyone have any idea how much i can take off before i have PTV clearance issues? I want it to be a straight forward engine build. Also, how much of a power bump would the higher compression give?

What are the specs of the VCM 21 camshaft?





Will ask Brad next time I see him, see how much was taken off mine.

The VCM21 specs are: 217˚ 225˚ .600" .578" 113˚ RPM Range: 1750-6600

[feistl]

I think there may have just been a little bit of exaggeration there. :lol:

Agreed, although i do believe they had a fair amount of interest...


You have a sickness errol!

I know, too many damn projects on the go.

Trying to juggle the VX (some big custom intake modifications planned), still working on the FJ40s and now have 2 wagons to get sorted. lol


Will ask Brad next time I see him, see how much was taken off mine.

The VCM21 specs are: 217˚ 225˚ .600" .578" 113˚ RPM Range: 1750-6600

Thats a pretty good power figure then considering the cam size and auto transmission...

Ill be interested to see what power this makes, and how much difference decking the heads makes.


Update: Had a bit of a closer look at the car this morning, it appears to have had more work done than i expected....

Its riding on King Springs and Koni Adjustable Shocks (Front and Rear) which look very new, its also got a full exhaust system (although its pretty quiet). Explains why the ride was so good on the way down (plus the 16" wheels help). Cant wait to get some decent rubber on it, the elcheapo brand tyres the dealer fitted for roadworthy are rubbish.

I'm now trying to work out what i do with the VY wagon... I might sell it as is rather than pulling off the upgraded bits as this wagon already has good suspension/exhaust.

Roadworthy inspection is booked for Wednesday. Will be interesting to see what they find...

[BLACK 346]

Agreed, although i do believe they had a fair amount of interest...



I know, too many damn projects on the go.

Trying to juggle the VX (some big custom intake modifications planned), still working on the FJ40s and now have 2 wagons to get sorted. lol



Thats a pretty good power figure then considering the cam size and auto transmission...

Ill be interested to see what power this makes, and how much difference decking the heads makes.


Update: Had a bit of a closer look at the car this morning, it appears to have had more work done than i expected....

Its riding on King Springs and Koni Adjustable Shocks (Front and Rear) which look very new, its also got a full exhaust system (although its pretty quiet). Explains why the ride was so good on the way down (plus the 16" wheels help). Cant wait to get some decent rubber on it, the elcheapo brand tyres the dealer fitted for roadworthy are rubbish.

I'm now trying to work out what i do with the VY wagon... I might sell it as is rather than pulling off the upgraded bits as this wagon already has good suspension/exhaust.

Roadworthy inspection is booked for Wednesday. Will be interesting to see what they find...

What a bonus mate. When you said it had a decent exhaust note in your original post, I figured something must have been done :)
Obviously the previous owner appreciated his car.

[Micks]

Maybe of interest if your L76 has been DOD deleted already you will have the same valley plate as shown below, an L76 will not have that forward PCV breather port.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y20/PerthPurplePenguin/car%20parts/L76/DSC02189_zps50062d59.jpg

[feistl]

What a bonus mate. When you said it had a decent exhaust note in your original post, I figured something must have been done :)
Obviously the previous owner appreciated his car.

Yeah, seems like everything was done properly...

Just as an example, here is a pic of the water pump area... Its what everything in the engine bay looks like.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/D73AC022-E378-4825-A023-80E89028702D_zpsm269serg.jpg


Maybe of interest if your L76 has been DOD deleted already you will have the same valley plate as shown below, an L76 will not have that forward PCV breather port.

Doesn't have the pipe, meaning it still has DoD. Thats ok though, as I did buy the entire kit.

[feistl]

Rather than starting a new thread, ill post here.

Any idea what a 4L65E transmission/torque converter with 70,000km would be worth?
Also, a 3.08 ratio LSD diff?

Both feel very tight and smooth, can be shown running in the car.

(Not actually trying to sell in this thread, just want to know what people reckon its worth).

[feistl]

Quick update:

Car came back from the Roadworthy Inspection…

Needs tint removed, new engine mounts and new rear tyres, other than that they said it looks very clean and very straight.

Got a set of genuine GM engine mounts from Holden (pair) for $266.09 inc GST. They are pretty easy to change (takes about an hour) so will tackle it this weekend. Booked my normal tint guy to come remove the old stuff and I am putting new tyres on the VE SSV 19” wheels so no issues there.

Car is booked in at Vicroads for next Thursday. It’s pretty expensive though…



Booking Fee $46.40
12 Months Rego $787.40
Transfer Fee $38.30
Stamp Duty $478.80 ($8.40 per $200)
Standard Black Number Plates $200


Total $1550.90 to register in vic.

Add another $700 for Insurance, plus the initial purchase price/wheels/mounts/RWC etc and it’ll be around $15,600 on road.

[Micks]

That ain't bad for a low mileage 6L, once the dod delete is done will be even more reliable too ;)

[feistl]

Quick Update...

Swapped the Xforce exhaust over from the VY wagon (Xforce has a better sound than the redback, both are 2.5" systems).

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/01_zpsfya3zxpx.jpg

Next step was the brakes...
HSV PBR Calipers, new 4000 series Slotted DBA rotors, Ferodo DS2500 pads and a full flush with Liquid Intelligence Racing Brake fluid.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/02_zpst63ytp8q.jpg

Old parts come off...

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/03_zpsvjmjzn4f.jpg

New stuff goes on :D. Happened to notice the sway bar has been upgraded to an adjustable whiteline version.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/04_zps5sumxdi5.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/05_zpsjdvqoimf.jpg

The rears are the "original" HSV rotors/pads from when it was on the VY wagon as there is heaps of life left. (Slotted rotors and DS2500 pads). Notice the Koni Adjustable shocks/King Springs, not seen in the photo is the upgraded rear whiteline sway bar. Explains why it handles so nicely...

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/06_zpsuv2mdmoe.jpg

Next step was to swap over the engine mounts (for road worthy). One side had a minor crack, but decided to change both.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/07_zpsfd1kbexc.jpg

Lastly, I chucked on a spare set of VY SS 18" wheels with new Bridgestone Turenza tyres (to clear the brakes and to pass roadworthy). I will be ordering a new set tyres for the VE SSV 19" wheels next week. I'm looking at a set of KUMHO 245/35R19 93Y ECSTA PS91 in 245/35/R19 from International Tyre Trader. Anyone tried these before? Will a 245/35/R19 fit the wheels and have enough clearance on a wagon?

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/08_zpsnpwtczd6.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/09_zpstk8xzi1q.jpg

[Micks]

Errol you certainly don't stand still mate! Good job on the brakes the VZ 6L in my opinion are under braked even with the larger front rotors as oem! I fitted the Corvette C6 setup to my Crewie & with the extra weight it carries always pulls up brilliantly. While I remember yours being the first L76 will have the secondary accessible DOD oil feed bung visible on the NS of the block that will allow you to block that passage off when you do the delete. See Simon's write up here http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?118115-D-I-Y-L76-Sump-Oil-Relief-Valve-Plug&highlight=stepped+plugs

[feistl]

Thanks man, just to clarify (as I'm a little confused still)...

The L76 engine has an oil relief valve which prevents oil psi building over 60psi to protect the collapsible lifters (which are there for DoD).

As I am removing them and going back to standard lifters, I should remove the bypass by either using one of those special bolts or physically blocking it up inside the sump (seeing as I'll have the sump off).

Now I was also reading that the DoD oil pump is a high volume type (for the lifters) and this can cause issues if doing an engine transplant and using a smaller sump capacity.

So really the question is, do I just need to block off the bypass when I have the sump off the engine? Is that's all that's needed?

cheers

[Micks]

Thanks man, just to clarify (as I'm a little confused still)...

The L76 engine has an oil relief valve which prevents oil psi building over 60psi to protect the collapsible lifters (which are there for DoD).

As I am removing them and going back to standard lifters, I should remove the bypass by either using one of those special bolts or physically blocking it up inside the sump (seeing as I'll have the sump off).

Now I was also reading that the DoD oil pump is a high volume type (for the lifters) and this can cause issues if doing an engine transplant and using a smaller sump capacity.

So really the question is, do I just need to block off the bypass when I have the sump off the engine? Is that's all that's needed?

cheers

The L76 has a secondary oil feed with it's own relief valve if you take the sump off it's just a matter of removing the valve & plugging it. You don't need to remove the sump to block that passage though as the above thread shows. Those ports only appear on the early L76's though.

[feistl]

Update:

Tint removed, roadworthy written and ready for registration...

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/01_zps6l1olown.jpg

Got it registered at 3:30pm today. Pretty straight forward process (just expensive). Bought the car home and decided to swap the VE SSV 19" wheels and tyres from the VX onto the VZ for a couple of reasons...



Firstly, The rubber on the VX is nearly 3 years old and has done bugger all kms. Figure i may as well use the rubber before it starts to go hard...




Secondly, it means i dont need to buy new tyres straight away (bank account is very low).


So in the mean time i decided to chuck the custom Harrop VY 18x9" rims on (with 265/35/R18 tyres). Amazingly, it appears the 265 width tyres fit on the FRONT as well as the rear with no rubbing... Need to do a little more driving to confirm.

SSVs off the VX....

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/02_zpsvzi3xcuu.jpg

And onto the VZ :bravo:

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/05_zps3oad5pnv.jpg

New (black) plates on

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/06_zpskncoiaew.jpg

Then the Harrop wheels onto the VX.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/12_zpshjqwuizm.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/03_zpsobsigd29.jpg

Mmmm, FAT.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/04_zpsrcagr6p6.jpg

Job Done

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/07_zpszctw3xou.jpg

In the mean time, here are some of the bits that have started arriving.

VCM L76 DoD Kit and VCM-11 Camshaft (Actually arrived before the car did lol)

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/11_zpsv9nbsutr.jpg

WL Cluster (Kms programmed to match)

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/08_zpsojwmyz55.jpg

VCM OTR (New Style)

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/09_zps2vqs4cb2.jpg

And VZ Manual Pedal Setup.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/10_zpsfgpbn6d1.jpg

Hopefully the weather is good this weekend and i can get some work done.

Cheers,

[Jason01]

The SSV wheels look great Errol, I personally thought the VY SS 18's suited it but the SSV's definitely look better. What are the Harrop SS 18x9's if you don't mind me asking, I've never heard of them, I assume they're very hard to find. I wouldn't mind a set for the rear to go with my VY SS 18X8's, would they match up ok, thanks?

Jason.

[feistl]

Cheers man, Yeah my favourite rims WERE the VY SS 18"s until Holden released the VE SSV 19"s. Such a nice clean style rim, i think it actually looks better on the VT-VZs than the VEs lol.

The Harrop wheels were a special 2 piece die cast rim manufactured (primarily) for improved production commodore race cars (think targa tasmania, bathurst 12 hour etc). They were designed to fit 265 width tyres front and rear, and are almost impossible to buckle/damage. (Julian from Harrop said as they were being used in Targa Tasmania the competitors needed a wheel that could stand up to hitting pot holes at very high speed).

They were very limited special release, so pretty hard to find another set.

I actually purchased these from "blue" on this forum... (Who i still owe a ride to in my VX when i eventually get it sorted and running properly... 3 years later lol)

http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?163347-Harrop-18-x-9-5-quot-rims

Im not sure about the colour... I have been toying with the idea of getting them stripped and repainted. The charcoal on black isnt a brilliant colour combination...

On another note, went to Glen Waverly Holden today and got a print out of security related information. EG Radio Pin, Immobiliser security code but most importantly the BCM Serial and Security Code. This means i can purchase some blank key heads and program them up with my Tech-II. (VY onwards required a security code). They didn't charge me either which is great, gonna start buying a lot of spares through them instead of Ferntree Gully.

Oh and final note is some advise for Insurance.

I was getting quotes for Full Comp insurance (going through all the regular mobs) and getting pretty high prices ($700-1000 premium with $1500-2200 excess). Anyway got a quote from Budget Direct ($456 with $800 excess) which is great, but they are a terrible insurance company to deal with if/when it comes time to make a claim. So took the quote to Coles Insurance who not only matched it, but beat it by $50...

So Full Comp insurance with Market Value was just $406 premium and a $800 excess. I couldn't justify paying the $400-500 extra for Shannons/RACV etc even if they didnt offer a slightly higher agreed value.

Cheers,

[Smitty]

... nice update on the wagon!

[feistl]

Cheers man

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/01%20Large_zps8rzetohv.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/02%20Large_zpscbfwzx9k.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/03%20Large_zpsmuibp8ia.jpg

Swapped the Top Gun 10mm Race Leads across from the VY Wagon...

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/04%20Large_zpskjpr3mcc.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/05%20Large_zpsscx2mvpy.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/06%20Large_zpsif3c0yu6.jpg

A just a quick visual difference between a 235 and a 265 tyre. 30mm doesn't seem like much, but it looks like a lot more. (sorry for the poor quality pic, it was just on dusk so struggled to get enough light to see the rubber without being too bright in the background).

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/07%20Large_zpssmlyx36t.jpg

[Jason01]

Cheers man, Yeah my favourite rims WERE the VY SS 18"s until Holden released the VE SSV 19"s. Such a nice clean style rim, i think it actually looks better on the VT-VZs than the VEs lol.

The Harrop wheels were a special 2 piece die cast rim manufactured (primarily) for improved production commodore race cars (think targa tasmania, bathurst 12 hour etc). They were designed to fit 265 width tyres front and rear, and are almost impossible to buckle/damage. (Julian from Harrop said as they were being used in Targa Tasmania the competitors needed a wheel that could stand up to hitting pot holes at very high speed).

They were very limited special release, so pretty hard to find another set.

I actually purchased these from "blue" on this forum... (Who i still owe a ride to in my VX when i eventually get it sorted and running properly... 3 years later lol)

http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?163347-Harrop-18-x-9-5-quot-rims

I'm not sure about the colour... I have been toying with the idea of getting them stripped and repainted. The charcoal on black isn't a brilliant colour combination...

On another note, went to Glen Waverly Holden today and got a print out of security related information. EG Radio Pin, Immobiliser security code but most importantly the BCM Serial and Security Code. This means i can purchase some blank key heads and program them up with my Tech-II. (VY onwards required a security code). They didn't charge me either which is great, gonna start buying a lot of spares through them instead of Ferntree Gully.

Oh and final note is some advise for Insurance.

I was getting quotes for Full Comp insurance (going through all the regular mobs) and getting pretty high prices ($700-1000 premium with $1500-2200 excess). Anyway got a quote from Budget Direct ($456 with $800 excess) which is great, but they are a terrible insurance company to deal with if/when it comes time to make a claim. So took the quote to Coles Insurance who not only matched it, but beat it by $50...

So Full Comp insurance with Market Value was just $406 premium and a $800 excess. I couldn't justify paying the $400-500 extra for Shannons/RACV etc even if they didn't offer a slightly higher agreed value.

Cheers,

Thanks for the info Errol, I thought they looked like they had bolts of some sort in those couple of photos you posted but I wasn't entirely sure, you just confirmed it saying they're two piece plus posting the other links with better photos to see the front of them. They probably wouldn't match too well with factory 18's to have an 8 inch front and 9 inch rear combo unfortunately.

A colour to match with your black car is a hard one, the charcoal looks pretty good in the photos but might be different in the flesh, maybe a champagne or light gold might work ok, or just keep them factory looking with a variation of silver unless you want black like most seem to. I have mine painted silver with some gold mixed in to try and get a champagne look (VX II Clubsport R8) and they look really good but it's on a sting red car.

Also I'm surprised to hear Shannons are too expensive for the insurance, I have my vehicles (and house) with them and the premiums are very reasonable. One thing I can say from experience unfortunately is when it goes bad and you have to make a claim they are fantastic to deal with and no drama whatsoever, definitely worth the extra spend for peace of mind there.

Jason.

P.S. Those 265's look bloody huge for 18's.

[feistl]

Do you have any pics of the champagne colour rims on the car?

Shannons are fantastic (They insure my VX and FJ40s) but for a daily driver thats not garaged its just too expensive. Shannons will charge $600+ extra per year and only cover an extra $4-5k, so as i dont do many kms and am a pretty good driver (Ex Defensive Driving Instructor) id rather save the $600 for mods :).

Quick Update:

Spent a bit of time on the VY Wagon (getting it ready for sale) and pulling a few parts off.

Pulled the stereo system out (both amps, 4 speakers/2 tweeters and the rear sub). Also put the standard harmonic balancer back on as i plan to install the 25% UDP onto the L76 when its out getting the cam installed. Will post pics of these later.

Pulled the door trims off the VZ in preparation for the Stereo install and so my tint guy can install the new tint. The good news is it looks like it was the first time the trim has been off (no scratches on the screws, plastic looks like the original install plus it just has standard speakers).

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/01%20Large_zpsscwe0nhn.jpg

Next step was to change over the steering wheel from the Standard leather to the HBD (Holden By Design) leather with white stitching...

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/02%20Large_zps5mc0uefq.jpg

Popped the airbag out

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/03%20Large_zpsdrke2ir0.jpg

Lined the steering wheel straight and marked it (always a good idea)

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/04%20Large_zpsdc02zh9a.jpg

You can see the difference

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/05%20Large_zps72m877i8.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/06%20Large_zps93asdoga.jpg

New wheel fitted

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/07%20Large_zpsslpzi8hz.jpg

And airbag back on.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/08%20Large_zps9qbf8rxj.jpg

(Oh and you may have noticed the radio is missing, i have installed that back into the VY wagon).

Then dropped the wagon off at the Tint guys place, he should get to it in the next couple of days.

Didnt get as much done on the VZ as i would have liked, but the VY took a long time to remove all the bits i wanted to keep (Stereo, gauges, steering wheel, harmonic balancer etc).

Cheers,

[feistl]

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/IMG_2822%20Large_zpsvthsqgjh.jpg

Sold. :bawl:

Was really sad to see it go, was a really nice car I've enjoyed owning for the last few years. It went to a ripper bloke who had a few plans for it, so might see it on the forum at some stage.

He is actually from Sydney but was working in the mines in Perth. He caught an overnight plane into Melbourne at 5:30am this morning... I met him at the airport, he test drove it and bought it on the spot. Then dropped me at a train station and headed home from there...

He messaged me this arvo after driving it all day and is rapt with it which is great.

[Micks]

Great result Errol win win! Now let the work to the VZ Wags begin!! :yup: :D

[feistl]

Yep, got $13k for the VY wagon (After taking out the diff and stereo).

Got the VZ back after having the new tint applied. Went out and grabbed a couple of quick pics a few minutes ago....

Note: It still hasn't been washed since i purchased it and drove it back from Sydney. Coming from previously owning Black and Dark Blue cars, Silver is ****ing brilliant.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/1%20Large_zpsyqzg7tux.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/2%20Large_zpssa0rvjdb.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/3%20Large_zpsvidetjwo.jpg

Oh and anyone looking to have tint install in south east Melbourne, give Brett a call on 0412 563 406. He has been doing cars for me for over a decade and the finish is always perfect. Never had a single issue (more than 10 cars done).

His prices are also very competitive compared to the normal places. Most of the time he does work for car dealers (Mercs/AMGs, BMWs etc) and i think he has done a number of Astons, Ferraris, Lambos etc. All his work is word of mouth...

Cheers,

[BLACK 346]

I had a black VT2 SS and still have one black car (wife's Mazda), and agree Silver is bloody awesome for being low maintenance. Even easier to maintain than our white car.

[Micks]

You probably already installed the larger brakes though changing the rubber oem hoses to braids def. give a better feel with these kits. I done same when fitted the C6/PBR option to my 6L Crewie.

[BLACK 346]

You probably already installed the larger brakes though changing the rubber oem hoses to braids def. give a better feel with these kits. I done same when fitted the C6/PBR option to my 6L Crewie.

Yes, braided lines definitely worth the $.

[feistl]

Where did you guys get the kit from? roughly what did you pay?

[BLACK 346]

Where did you guys get the kit from? roughly what did you pay?

I got the set for my VT from this mob

http://www.safebrake.com.au/

The ones on my VE came with the brakes.

[feistl]

Happy with the quality? If so I'll order a set now.

cheers

[BLACK 346]

Happy with the quality? If so I'll order a set now.

cheers

Yes, they were very good quality. I just had a look at the VZ sets, and it lists them for Sedan only, are the Wagons a different brake setup?

[Micks]

Yes, they were very good quality. I just had a look at the VZ sets, and it lists them for Sedan only, are the Wagons a different brake setup?

Rod they should all be the same except AWD offcourse. My setup came off a sedan.

[BLACK 346]

Rod they should all be the same except AWD offcourse. My setup came off a sedan.

Then this kit should be ok for him Mick?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/180913099634?lpid=107&chn=ps

[Micks]

Yes, look like really good quality & similar to the kit I fitted to my VF2 from Harrop a few months ago. Not sure why they give different rear lines option for sed/wag to chasis type? As on my Crewie it uses the sedan ones & a perfect fit too?

[feistl]

Update:

Parts have arrived...

Safebrake braided lines. Thanks for the help guys, kit looks good quality and they were easy to deal with
(If anyone is thinking of buying a set, they offer 10% discount to members of the other big commodore forum. Unfortuantly didn't realise until after i purchased...)

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/01%20Large_zpsqupkpn5m.jpg

Genuine HSV VZ gauges with black dials, no wiring loom but more on that shortly.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/02%20Large_zps8mcxlpum.jpg

Piano Black Dash facia pulled from VZ Calais

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/03%20Large_zpszpz4bwdq.jpg

Also ordered a set of floor mats from Tru Fit Carpets in Dandenong (Ive used them in the past). They made up a set of moulded floor mats (plus an extra drivers mat as that is obviously the first to wear out, so ive got a spare) including a rear cargo area mat. The one that came with the car looks good, but im not sure how durable it is and it covers the tie down points. As i will be using this as a wagon, i wanted a mat that was grippy, durable and where i could still use the tie down points. Ill post pics when i install them tomorrow.

Finally, here is the stereo system which was removed from the VY wagon before i sold it.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/04%20Large_zpshgo8gefy.jpg

Here is a list of parts (more for me so I can reference them in future if required).



Kenwood DDX4038BT headunit
Kicker ZX350.4 Amp for Speakers (60wrms x4)
Front Splits – Alpine SPS-171A 50wrms
Rear Speakers - Pioneer TS-A1674S 35wrms
JL Audio XD600/1 Monoblock Amp for Sub
JL Audio 12W3v3-4 500wrms 12” Sub
50m of 14awg speaker wire
1 box Dynamat Extreme
2 rolls of sound insulation material


As this system was installed in the VY wagon it should pretty much be a “plug and play” installation. (EG the speaker moulds had already been cut to size, amp brackets made up etc). I just needed to clean up the wiring a bit to include the HSV binacle gauges .

To start with I removed the plastic water liner from the door frame (The outer trim had already been removed for the tint install). As it was a warm day the gule was fairly soft, if you were doing this in winter its worth heating the glue with a hair drier first. Once the plastic was removed, I wiped down the inside of the door skin with wax and grease remover.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/05%20Large_zpsso4kvemb.jpg

Then I was ready to roll on the dynamat. Initially i tried cutting out the correct sized piece but found it difficult to get through the gap once the backing had been removed. So then I found it easiest to cut small sections and overlap them (20cm x 20cm). Did all 4 doors getting as much coverage as possible.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/06%20Large_zps9d5fi0gt.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/07%20Large_zpswpwqiz1b.jpg

Also tried to get as much coverage inside as possible using offcuts. Probably not required, but while i was at it...

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/08%20Large_zpsns3cgvvs.jpg

And the remaining doors

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/09%20Large_zpsrdl1rb1b.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/10%20Large_zpsr2ffoqtz.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/11%20Large_zps0asf5rli.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/12%20Large_zps8mnt98ui.jpg

Once the doors had been dynamatted, i pulled the top dash trim out to install the tweeters.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/13%20Large_zpsagikiv6m.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/14%20Large_zps9xgmfcba.jpg

Ran some wiring from the front doors and the front tweeters to just behind the dash to plug into the splitter box. Then ran a feed back to the amp…

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/15%20Large_zpsxoe56ims.jpg

I ran an 8 gauge feed from the battery via the front right guard and came in through the grommet for the side indicator. (It is easier to seal this grommet than cutting/drilling into the main firewall grommet). This power line ran behind the cluster (along with the speaker wire) to the centre console as the amp would be installed under the front seat.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/16%20Large_zpsjiemd7dm.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/17%20Large_zpsycz7kcz9.jpg

Made up a ground lead. (Ideally when doing any heavy duty wiring try and use a crimp with a 12t hydraulic press. This ensures a very solid mechanical and electrical connection.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/18%20Large_zpsrnygrn3w.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/19%20Large_zpssxkdkcwk.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/20%20Large_zps9nplsysa.jpg

Bolted the ground down to the mounting point for the stereo frame and run the wires down the middle of the car.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/21%20Large_zps7hhdtbbp.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/22%20Large_zpswjrwuwhj.jpg

[feistl]

Once the speaker/power feeds were in place, I started to modify the stereo wiring harness.

The Kenwood headunit comes with an adapter plug which means I didn’t need to solder/modify the standard body loom. As I was using amplifiers for the speakers/sub, I didnt need speaker wiring from the headunit (Just the RCA outputs).

I removed the headunit speaker wiring, added in power/ground/ignition feed for the navigation unit, wired in the steering wheel control module and finally added wiring (power, ignition, illumination and ground) for the HSV Binnacle gauges.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/23%20Large_zpsawkjq2bj.jpg

How to wire up HSV VZ Binnacle Gauges…

You can buy a wiring loom on ebay for like $90 (pictured below) but its very easy to create your own.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/24_zpslyjecubs.jpg

As above, you need to source a constant power feed, ignition trigger, an illumination feed and a ground. (All of these wires are in the radio loom or in the cluster wiring. The radio is easier to cut and splice, but either are an acceptable source).

You also need to source a canbus signal from the cluster. If you peel back the tape on the cluster loom you should find a green wire with a white stripe (and 2 silver bands) in pin 2.

Ideally use a “inline” wire stripper to remove some of the insulation while leaving the copper wire intact.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/25%20Large_zps4bnmy6vn.jpg

Solder in a feed wire (ideally green/white with 2 bands if you have it, otherwise green or any other colour will work). Tape it up, then tape up the loom.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/26%20Large_zpstwtsat1f.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/27%20Large_zpsaklf0trd.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/28%20Large_zps3h0ejnlh.jpg

Once the wire was run to the gauge area, I terminated it with a crimp plug. It just makes it easier if the radio wiring loom ever needs to be removed.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/29%20Large_zpsm6ed6dyv.jpg

Now that you have the required 5 wires its just a matter of wiring them into a plug. Luckily the plug required is a standard 8 pin plug that is used in the climate control system in VT-VZs. So if you head down to a pick a part/jollys wrecker with some wire cutters you can source your own plug cheaply. I happened to have several left over from various looms I’ve pulled apart over the years.

(Sorry, this is the best pic i grabbed).

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/30%20Large_zpsexzfzkwd.jpg

Unfortunately, the plug only has 7 wires terminated and the 8th missing wire position is needed for the gauges, so you need to relocate a pin. This is pretty straight forward when you know how.

Firstly, remove the white retaining clip (pry up each side with a small screw driver). Then, using a small jewelers spade screw driver, slide the blade in and push downwards (Its hard to explain). There is a retaining clip which once pushed out of the way the wire pin will pull out.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/31%20Large_zpsrjvfyjtj.jpg

It’s then just a matter of sliding the wire/connector into the correct position. This is the wiring diagram you'll need to follow...

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/32_zpsutoxsnvy.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/33_zpszvmbwdhr.jpg

Now if you’re really anal you can remove the wire from the pin and solder in the appropriate colour wire but it’s far easier to just solder the correct colours onto the “pigtale”. Remember to add heat shrink onto the wire before soldering.

Also, as a tip try and cut the wires at different links so no two solder joints are at the same point. This ensures you won’t accidently short circuit and spreads out the thickness of the heatshrink/joins. If you do them all at the same length you end up with a “fat” part of the cable.

So here is the completed loom. You’ll also notice the green wire with the matching connector at the top to hook into the feed from the cluster. Also, i forgot to add a 12v ignition feed for the amplifiers, i added one in after taking this pic.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/34%20Large_zpspjpzz45c.jpg

Now I was ready to install the new wiring harness into the car. At the same time I installed the navigation module wiring and both pairs of RCA leads.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/35%20Large_zpsoyb1zbvz.jpg

All the wiring nicely tucked away

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/36%20Large_zpsfh9wz9tk.jpg

Then the installation of the headunit was very straight forward (although a little fiddly in the tight area).

Powered it up to test the functionality (steering wheel controls, illumination, Bluetooth, navigation, USB and RCA output). As I hadn’t installed the amps yet, I plugged the RCA leads into a stereo system in the house with a set of long RCA extension leads.

(You can also see the connector for the gauges at the top).

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/37%20Large_zpsgl7algxe.jpg

Finished running the leads and speaker wiring to terminate just under the front passenger seat. (There is also wiring running to the back of the car for the sub amp/subwoofer).

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/38%20Large_zps6omtifyc.jpg

Next stage was to glue some sound deadening underlay onto the inside of the doors…
Cut them to shape then using some adhesive glue then stuck them in place. Some people have asked whether the carpet gets wet and rots, but I did this on the VY wagon a few years back and when I checked when removing the speakers it was dry/no signs of wetness.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/39%20Large_zpsrfy1oyqh.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/40%20Large_zpsc1xi47qf.jpg

Stuck the plastic weather strips back on, installed the speakers and attached the door cards.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/41%20Large_zpsd7qewfkr.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/42%20Large_zpstech8ipl.jpg

Installed the new WL cluster. (Just needs to be programmed up with the Tech-II, will do that shortly).

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/43%20Large_zpsya55dndk.jpg

And reinstalled the rest of the centre console trim. At this point the VZ Calais piano black facia hadn't arrived yet and i needed the car for work, hence putting it back together temporarily.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/44%20Large_zpsvi2bqbtd.jpg

Now was ready to install the amp. Cut some of the carpet back and installed some M5 nutcerts into the pre drilled holes for the amp install.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/45%20Large_zpsjzzpckg0.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/46%20Large_zpsxotijhr5.jpg

Installed the amp, and started wiring it up.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/47%20Large_zps16dbxjnt.jpg

After wiring up the amp, i realised i had made a painful mistake...

[feistl]

On the VY Berlina the front passenger seat was fully manual, which meant it had lots of space underneath for an amp. However the VZ Berlina seat was electric, so the motors didn't have enough clearance. That meant removing the amp and putting it somewhere else.

As the kicker amp is pretty large, I couldn’t find anywhere easy to mount it up without losing cabin space. So instead I decided to mount an amp behind the kick panel under the rear seat (This doesn’t exist on the sedan, but on the wagon there is extra space due to the long wheel base).

So jumped online and after a few hours of searching I found some suitable amp from Ryda. The amp in question is a DS18 Candy-2D which I choose for a couple of reasons. Firstly, it has a really small footprint (179mm x 120mm x 46mm) which should fit under the rear seat. Secondly, its relatively powerful (2x 100wrms @ 4ohm) and finally its relatively affordable ($169). It is only a 2 channel amp though, which means I needed a pair that could be mounted on each side.

I couldn’t find any other suitable amp, everything else is too large or underpowered.

So i ordered a pair of these which arrived pretty quickly.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/48%20Large_zpsjrppg3tm.jpg

You can see how they compare to the kicker amp.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/49%20Large_zpssguydbzm.jpg

Basic connectors and tuning, but should do the job nicely.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/50%20Large_zpswt6htswk.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/51%20Large_zpstsoc3hob.jpg

So thats where i am currently up to. Melbourne weather is letting me down a bit, so hopefully it clears up on the weekend and i can finish the install. Ill also post up pics of the floor mats.

Cheers,

[Micks]

Very tidy install Errol, when I fitted my VZ GTO binnacle I found it very easy to feed the loom through the dash back to the cluster & made all my connections back about 100mm from the cluster loom. Great thing about the VZ it operates through the bus, no sensors required & is plug & play.

[feistl]

Yeah, I did consider that but as I had to do the radio loom it made sense to do it there.

i was actually hoping to run an external oil pressure gauge for redundancy/as a second measurement...

trial fitted the floor mats before (went to get dinner) and they brilliant. Very happy with the quality and cost.

bit annoyed I didn't pick up on the amp issue earlier, but I was under the assumption it should have worked so didn't double check

cheers

[Micks]

I also fitted a banjo tee below the oem oil pressure sensor for comparison of both, especially so after blocking the old DOD feed & difference between mech. guage & the GTO one was negligible.

[whitels1ss]

Fantastic work & write up Errol! :goodjob:

[Toddler78]

Yeah, I did consider that but as I had to do the radio loom it made sense to do it there.

i was actually hoping to run an external oil pressure gauge for redundancy/as a second measurement...

trial fitted the floor mats before (went to get dinner) and they brilliant. Very happy with the quality and cost.

bit annoyed I didn't pick up on the amp issue earlier, but I was under the assumption it should have worked so didn't double check

cheers

Funny about that. (Good job on it all by the way mate) but as I was reading and looking at the picks I was thinking gee I wonder if that amp is going to fit under the seats....... and sure enough no[emoji19] it's painful reading watching something take place and as it is progressing thinking I don't think this is going to work and then you get to that point in the story, feel bad for you mate but I'm sure it's going to come up tops with your back up solution![emoji1303]

[aussiebbq]

Good progress. Really makes me want to go out and reinstall my dodgy stereo set-up but I don't have the tools any more.

[black_friday]

Great write up. Its also made me reconsider fitting binnacle gauges, dont think I can be bothered!!

[feistl]

I also fitted a banjo tee below the oem oil pressure sensor for comparison of both
Ill do the same after installing the cam/DoD kit. For a daily driver using the same sender is fine, just after having the LSX motor fail because of oil pressure (due to the builder not assembling it correctly) i am a bit paranoid.


Fantastic work & write up Errol!
Cheers man


I was thinking gee I wonder if that amp is going to fit under the seats.......
Where were you when i needed you lol. It did fit in the VY, just not in the VZ with the electric seats (which will make sense in a second).


Good progress. Really makes me want to go out and reinstall my dodgy stereo set-up but I don't have the tools any more.
Cheers man, just try and pick a day where it doesn't rain every 6 minutes (literally, theres been a shower every 10 minutes all damn day).


dont think I can be bothered!!
As Micks said, you can grab all the required wires from the cluster and as you can see below wasn't that difficult to modify the facia to suit.

[feistl]

Update time.

Wired up both amps to test the wiring and tune the amps to the headunit/speakers.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/01%20Large_zps7zl3gbck.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/02%20Large_zps3mst96mk.jpg

Once both amps were tuned in correctly, i mounted them up. Here is the clever bit, the amps have a small ventilation fan on the bottom (which i didnt want to block up) so i got creative. Bending the mounting brackets slightly, i was able to mount them directly to the inside of the fibreglass "kick panel" than goes under the rear seat. Basically to keep the carpet the same between sedan and wagons, holden used these fibreglass spacers to take up the extra space on the longer wheel base.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/03%20Large_zpsbi4wzrhu.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/04%20Large_zpsy3tprbv8.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/05%20Large_zpsv5eubtrc.jpg

Originally these fibreglass pieces were pop rivet in place, but as you may have noticed in an earlier picture i drilled out the remains of the pop rivet and put a M6 nutcert in its place. So now it was just a case of bolting the pieces in with a dome cap bolt (to keep it flush).

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/06%20Large_zpszxqmmljd.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/07%20Large_zpsh4dzllan.jpg

(Out of focus, but you get the idea).

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/08%20Large_zpsei0nhnbs.jpg

Can still get to the tuning adjustments is required.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/09%20Large_zpsdwpu4azl.jpg

Can hardly tell they are there...

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/10%20Large_zpsvrd8tgma.jpg

Put some more dynamat and sound deadening under the rear seat and put it back together. (You can also see the new rear floor mat)

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/11%20Large_zpsuuiimyit.jpg

Dynamatted the rear area around the subwoofer.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/12%20Large_zpsvpypqasj.jpg

Installed the amp behind the rear panel section.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/13%20Large_zpsf4ek5shd.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/14%20Large_zpsp8sm0af5.jpg

Then installed the subwoofer.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/15%20Large_zpspr2selgy.jpg

Also dynamatted the other side of the cargo area, but forgot to grab a pic.

Anyway, so the reason why the speaker amp didnt fit earlier is actually because i decided to swap from the standard (manual) cloth seat to full electric leather seats i had left over from the VT Calais i wrecked (I was using the 5L 195kw HSV engine for one of the FJ40s). Anyway these seats are in mint condition as they've had sheep skin covers on them since new. The leather is nice and soft with no major wear marks. I will keep an eye out and find a set of rear leather seats as well.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/16%20Large_zpskjoekzbh.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/17%20Large_zps9jnifu3z.jpg

[feistl]

So now that the stereo was sorted, was time to install the Piano Black VZ Calais dash facia.

Started by swapping the cluster surround over (as it was the easiest)

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/18%20Large_zps7az65khm.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/19%20Large_zpsjh8enx6o.jpg

Now the hard part... Modifying the facia to suit the HSV binnacle gauges. Unassembled the upper comparment from the facia and removed the lid and clip.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/20%20Large_zpsy0la8gdt.jpg

Then drilled down the front inner edges, cut a slot in the middle and a hole at the back for the wiring.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/21%20Large_zpslrjuzbkr.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/21%20Large_zpslrjuzbkr.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/23%20Large_zpsnjnkrssx.jpg

Cut out a small section of foam to sit at the rear....

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/24%20Large_zpsvjn8gkrd.jpg

Then as the VZ Calais is dual zone while the Berlina is single zone, i had to change the climate module over. Comes apart pretty easily, and lucky the black buttons line up with the functions on the single zone. Only difference is on the Berlina buttons it normally says "Min" and "Max" on the passenger side, whereas the dual zone just has up/down arrows. Functionality is still the same

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/25%20Large_zpswp29js3j.jpg

Then it was just a matter of assembling it up. Amazingly the foam pushes and holes the gauges in place from behind, that it doesnt need any special clip in the front. The drill holes hold the standard clips perfectly.
Note: A friend picked up a black bezel to go around the headunit from JB HiFi this morning, i will change it over tomorrow when i see them. For now i just clippped the grey one back in place.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/26%20Large_zpshigs7pro.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/27%20Large_zpsisguqnvq.jpg

Here is the drivers matt close up. Fits perfectly, really happy with the result. Paid $120 for a set (plus $30 for a spare drivers mat) from Tru Fit Carpets in Dandeong. Highly recommend them.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/28%20Large_zps0o3keabg.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/29%20Large_zpsrfdnob8l.jpg

And here is the rear cargo area mat. This was an extra $90. Its a black rubber "checkerplate" design. Its very grippy on top and grips nicely on the bottom. It was custom made to fit the rear as i couldn't use a full moulded one with the subwoofer plus i like being able to use the tie down points.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/30%20Large_zpshqhtl4nd.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/31%20Large_zpsng9wpexb.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/32%20Large_zpsyvpano5v.jpg

So yeah, took a lot longer than expected but the stereo sounds brilliant, there is a significant reduction in road noise, the floor matts look brilliant and im really happy with dash/gauges. If the weather holds up tomorrow ill try and install the braided brake lines.

Cheers,

[Micks]

Errol not that I would do it my Crewie, but does the AAPL D/Z climate require an additional sensor to pick up the zone or is it all on board?

[feistl]

Not sure mate, i have read in a few places that the actual climate box is different and its not an easy conversion.

Changed the brake lines over today, still very disappointed in the performance. Bleed the system half a dozen times (including using the tech II to bleed the ABS unit) and the pedal is just really spongy at the start. Is this normal for the VZ? I know it has brake assist but its honestly horrible.

I'm going to have to try and retrofit the VY booster/master cylinder in but I'm not sure how well it will work with the Bosch 8th gen ABS system. Either way i cant live with it :cussing:

Edit - When the brakes were fitted to the VY (With standard rubber hoses) i was really impressed with the performance. However ever since getting this VZ the brake pedal feel has been terrible. Just reading a few threads on various forums and it seems to be a common complaint of the VZ specifically...

[Micks]

Normally after I bleed my C6's the pedal is yes a bit spongy for a day or so, then all sweet.

[feistl]

Ill see how it goes tomorrow, but yeah can't beleive how bad they are. Not the first time that Holden have gone backwards with a newer model...

[Micks]

The setup my Crewie had from OEM always felt like that! It had 320mm rotor with what looked like a stock though larger caliper.

[feistl]

Quick update:

Couple of pics of the braided brake lines

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/01%20Large_zpsc4u2jate.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/02%20Large_zpsqi6sexlx.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/03%20Large_zpsqttfqxf0.jpg

Got a black plastic surround for the stereo

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/04%20Large_zpstezhdkox.jpg

Couple of new keys (But annoyingly, even though i have a Tech-II and the BCM security code i need TIS enabled to program for VZ which costs $30 for a single day...)

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/05%20Large_zpset80lj0b.jpg

Cracked the shits at the brakes and decided to replace the master cylinder. (I knew the calipers worked, it had new lines and fluid, the ABS module seemed to be working so master cylinder was the only suspect part).

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/06%20Large_zpssiepbi6h.jpg

Changed it over, surprisingly it was pretty quick and straight forward. Didnt spill any brake fluid so was pretty happy with that. Not sure whether it was a combination of the master cylinder or rebleeding again but they feel much better. Still not as good as when i had the calipers on the VY, but certainly good enough for a daily.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/07%20Large_zpsq3oey6gu.jpg

Finally, gave it a quick wash (although it got rained on before taking this pic). Must admit, looks really good in the flesh. The SSV wheels really suit it, especially being silver.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee369/feistl/08%20Large_zpsa5jbpfee.jpg

So theres not much left to go (apart from cam upgrade and gearbox swap). Got the parts ready, just need to find some time.

Cheers,

[Micks]

Looks great mate! Perhaps there was some air in the brakes? My 120K VZ is still running it's original master no probs. BTW what method/procedure do you follow to bleed them?

[huggies]

i always wondered if they made 6ltr vz wags.
awesome build thread.

[Micks]

i always wondered if they made 6ltr vz wags.
awesome build thread.

Majority of the 06 VZ V8s were 6L as the LS1 did not meet the latter emission standards.

[BLACKVE]

Rare 6L berlina, not a wagon but looks in mint cond(apart from chev badge)

https://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Holden-Berlina-2006/SSE-AD-4264042/?Cr=1

67K on her, odd its a dec 05 build with the 6L I thought 6L was 06 on but its there on the plate

[whitels1ss]

i always wondered if they made 6ltr vz wags.
awesome build thread.

:yup:
Any updates Errol? :stick:

[feistl]

Hey my pictures are back :-).

Ok thats given me the motivation to finish writing up the latest part of the build. Stay tuned (I have just over 600 photos to post, theres been a LOT of work done).

Cheers