Engine Mount help please

[Stevieboy34]

So my engine mount on my series 2 VE SS went, took me a while to work out what the noise was but it was totally stuff after 120,000km and I thought having a blower etc I guess that happens. Went in, got it replaced and then after about a month I heard the same noise. Took it back in and the boys said maybe it was a freak thing but it was stuffed again. So they replaced it and off I go.

4 weeks down now and its gone again. I can feel it again, I am so pissed off. Not that its the mechanics fault at all but why all of a sudden is this happening? I didn't want to change from standard mounts and they had been fine for 6 years but what the **** is going on?!!!

Any help appreciated.

[Micks]

Did they replace one or the pair? Never heard of this before?

[Stevieboy34]

Replaced the left one, twice!

[whitels1ss]

Have they fitted genuine or aftermarket mounts?


I know of people with Fords who have had problems with some absolute crap aftermarket Chinese mounts.:doh:

[Micks]

Replaced the left one, twice!

You should have your mechanic properly check the other mount, rarely one goes without affecting the other!

[Stevieboy34]

Have they fitted genuine or aftermarket mounts?


I know of people with Fords who have had problems with some absolute crap aftermarket Chinese mounts.:doh:

Nah mate genuine replacement.

[Stevieboy34]

You should have your mechanic properly check the other mount, rarely one goes without affecting the other!

Hmm. I will ask them. I just cant see how the right one would affect it seeing as though there is nothing wrong with it.

[white lie]

The left side generally cops more abuse as the engine leans over when it torques up. But if the right is shagged as well it can allow for excessive movement. As Micks said, you'd want to change the pair while you're going to that length to change one.

Might need to look in to a tougher mount. Tough Mounts, Superpro, Yella Terra etc all make something a little stronger but without the harshness of a solid mount.

Or I have heard of people putting in a stronger aftermarket on the left and genuine on the right to keep the OEM feel.

[SASLS1]

I run the Mace Engineering / TTT Unbreakable engine mounts in my VZSS L76 ute daily, and have never had a broken L/H mount since...

From all the aftermarket mounts I found while reseaching, their the only one's that uses a rubber bush, for the least harshness...

VT - VZ...

https://www.maceengineering.com.au/epages/shop.sf/en_AU/?ObjectPath=/Shops/mace/Products/MNT820

VE - VF

https://www.maceengineering.com.au/epages/shop.sf/en_AU/?ObjectPath=/Shops/mace/Products/MNT821


I installed them on both side and the engine is solid as a rock and hardly moves..... just what I was after.... NVH is negligibly more, I'm totally happy with the setup, with hardly any more NVH IMO...

[Micks]

The left side generally cops more abuse as the engine leans over when it torques up. But if the right is shagged as well it can allow for excessive movement. As Micks said, you'd want to change the pair while you're going to that length to change one.

Might need to look in to a tougher mount. Tough Mounts, Superpro, Yella Terra etc all make something a little stronger but without the harshness of a solid mount.

Or I have heard of people putting in a stronger aftermarket on the left and genuine on the right to keep the OEM feel.

Exactly mate, if you replace one the motor generally won't sit right as they sag, once you replace both mounts the motor actually sits up way higher in the bay! ;)

[Stevieboy34]

I run the Mace Engineering / TTT Unbreakable engine mounts in my VZSS L76 ute daily, and have never had a broken L/H mount since...

From all the aftermarket mounts I found while reseaching, their the only one's that uses a rubber bush, for the least harshness...

VT - VZ...

https://www.maceengineering.com.au/epages/shop.sf/en_AU/?ObjectPath=/Shops/mace/Products/MNT820

VE - VF

https://www.maceengineering.com.au/epages/shop.sf/en_AU/?ObjectPath=/Shops/mace/Products/MNT821


I installed them on both side and the engine is solid as a rock and hardly moves..... just what I was after.... NVH is negligibly more, I'm totally happy with the setup, with hardly any more NVH IMO...

Sorry for the silly question but what exactly is NVH?
I am not keen if its possible at least, to go to a hard or vibrating engine mount. I really have no knowledge of that though or know how much I would feel it.
Maybe I will get him to replace it again, plus the one on the right side too. I have had the same engine setup for the whole 120,000km so fingers crossed I could do that again if I do both.

Think that's the best option?

Thanks for the replies btw

[white lie]

NVH - Noise, Vibration, Harshness

You don't want a solid mount but I think you will need something stronger than factory. You want something that can handle the power/torque but doesn't feel much different to OEM.

[SASLS1]

The Mace Engineering unbreakable mount has a large 50mm rubber bush, it is NOT... a solid metal to metal mount...

Here is a pic I found of the bush, before it's installed in the mount.

http://images2.hellotrade.com/data3/DW/NK/HTVENDOR-13068685/un-breakable-engine-mounts-250x250.jpg

You can see the rubber bush in this VE / VF mount pic...

https://www.maceengineering.com.au/WebRoot/ecshared01/Shops/mace/55C0/62FC/173C/AE72/158D/AC10/0040/1ADF/W2_EM6200_engine_mount.jpg

The VT - VZ mount (this is the one I fitted to both sides on my VZ) uses the same large 50mm rubber bush, but you can't see it, in this side view pic, but you can see the edge of the steel tube it's pressed into...

https://www.maceengineering.com.au/WebRoot/ecshared01/Shops/mace/57AE/9618/DFA1/803B/5DDC/AC10/003F/B684/MNT820_image.jpg

I've done Approx 90000 kms on the new Mace mounts, with zero issues..... and I re-installed the factory engine mount heat shields as well...

From memory my L/H OEM mount broke at approx 60000 - 70000 Kms...

As I said, all the other aftermarket mounts I've seen, use Smaller Harder non rubber bushes, and would transfer more NVH than the large 50 mm Mace rubber bush.

This is the reason I bought the Mace mounts, for the least NVH possible...


The choice is yours... replace Both Sides with Brand New OEM engine mounts, and see how long they last.

Or go aftermarket, no more broken mounts... but there will be an increase in NVH to some degree, depending on which brand you buy...


The best priced aftermarket mounts I've seen, are the CRS HP Mounts for VE - VF $250 for pair.

But, they use a far smaller (looks like a blue SuperPro bush), so will transfer more NVH...

https://www.rodshop.com.au/pub/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/e9c3970ab036de70892d86c6d221abfe/i/m/img_3010_1_.jpg

[Jason01]

I put Nolathane's in mine, cost me about $250 getting them for a good price and to start with they were tolerable but after a month or so I f#cking hated them and went back to stockers. The Mace rubber one's look like they might be an ok compromise though.

[Souljah]

I had the Nolathane ones in my cammed ute. Performed well however i did have more interior vibrations at idle.

[Stevieboy34]

Sorry guys it’s been a while. So here is an update. It stuffed another left one and I cracked it big time and went with the Tuff mounts.

In my opinion it’s tge single worst thing I’ve ever done to my car, any car in fact! The noise, the vibration, the NOISE! It totally ruined the car!!!

I’ve since gone back and replaced them and cannot believe anyone would use succh a thing, I can not under emphasize how bad they are.

I’ll see how I go if I have more trouble I’ll look at the above suggestion, thank you for that btw. This time I replace both left and right as suggested. I’ll see if that helps.

[SASLS1]

Did you realize that Tuff mounts are available with different bushes, may save you from trying to sell them off...

Found this quote about them...


"Replaceable Polyurethane bushes designed for specific Engine NVH Harmonics

Bush Duro variation available

90 duro Hard (race)

80 Duro Standard (Weekender)

70 Duro Executive (Daily Driven more comfort)

Please contact us if you want to change duro or Standard 80 Duro is supplied"


But...... Tuff Mounts have very small bushes , so it probably won't help you much unfortunately...

Red Polyurethane is Hard As Hell... and all the pics of Tuff Mounts I've seen, have red bushes...

[Jason01]

I tried Nolathanes in my daily a couple of years ago knowing full well they would be firm but hopefully still have enough give. Initially I could tolerate them but after a couple of months I grew to hate them with a passion and went back to stockies. Fortunately I got them for a substantial discount but still paid $200+ for them from memory.

I'd be willing to let them go cheap if someone in SEQ wants to try them.

[Stevieboy34]

FYI I have only had the standards in about 4 weeks and can already feel a clunk again. I am fitting front left new coil over to make sure its not that but if its the engine mount again, thinking about going to a chassis shop. I just don't believe that 120,000km no issues then suddenly they all keep stuffing up. Surely something is not right.

[whitels1ss]

FYI I have only had the standards in about 4 weeks and can already feel a clunk again. I am fitting front left new coil over to make sure its not that but if its the engine mount again, thinking about going to a chassis shop. I just don't believe that 120,000km no issues then suddenly they all keep stuffing up. Surely something is not right.

Yeah, can't make sense out of it, I have mates with around 400rwkw
who drag race them often & can still run OEM mounts without as much problems as you..


I am probably clutching at straws for ideas here but.....

Could it possibly be a heat issue perhaps caused by some unusual large extractors without decent heat shields cooking them?

Do they drop their oil in 5 minutes flat? :confused:

[Stevieboy34]

Yeah, can't make sense out of it, I have mates with around 400rwkw
who drag race them often & can still run OEM mounts without as much problems as you..


I am probably clutching at straws for ideas here but.....

Could it possibly be a heat issue perhaps caused by some unusual large extractors without decent heat shields cooking them?

Do they drop their oil in 5 minutes flat? :confused:

No I say bring the silly theories ON. Cant say re dropping their oil I will check though heat wise its not a silly suggestion.

And yep that's really the same type of power but I certainly am not drag racing etc. Doing my ****ing head in.

[BLACKVE]

Check gearbox mount as well.

[Stevieboy34]

Check gearbox mount as well.

Can you explain for a novice like me mate? What's your thought?

[surfwagon]

Check gearbox mount as well.

I agree I did just the engine mounts first and there was still a lot of movement then checked the transmission mount and it was about to rip into 2 pieces.
Replaced and all has been ok.
That was 5-6 years back, about 60K/klm.