Supercharger for VFSS

[HOLDAN]

Good afternoon

I've had my VF SSV redline for just over 2 years now. It is still stock as.

I have been thinking about getting a supercharger installed (after many years developing a NA L98 in my VESS which I sold - cue many tears).

I like the look of Walkinshaw's W547 package. Based on a WP230 supercharger (not sure if it's Eaton or what). RRP $23,250.

Good choice or not???

Regards, Dan

[whitels1ss]

I would go with a Harrop FDFI2300 kit https://www.harrop.com.au/shop/automotive-performance/superchargers/harrop-tvs2300?make=30

& as I see you are in Brisbane I would suggest that you talk to (ex forum sponsor) Mark at Power Torque https://powertorqueengines.com.au/

They are Harrop & Walkinshaw dealers. :cheers:

[whitels1ss]

Sorry, missed your question.... Yes Walkinshaw use Eaton TVS rotors in their blowers.

I have linked below a video which explains some of the different rotating assemblies in blowers with
some advantages / disadvantages listed on some of them & a little bit about the bypass valve etc.
(I know he is talking about smaller sized blowers but the principal of the way the larger ones work is the same.)





https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DTTPNWUH-yA



Hope you find something of interest in the video. :cheers:

[whitels1ss]

Here is another video about differences in types of blowers which you could find interesting.

I honestly think the TVS type (used in both Harrop & Walkinshaw kits) is the best choice for a street car.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sqYP7YGanYg

[HOLDAN]

Sorry, missed your question.... Yes Walkinshaw use Eaton TVS rotors in their blowers.

I have linked below a video which explains some of the different rotating assemblies in blowers with
some advantages / disadvantages listed on some of them & a little bit about the bypass valve etc.
(I know he is talking about smaller sized blowers but the principal of the way the larger ones work is the same.)





https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DTTPNWUH-yA



Hope you find something of interest in the video. :cheers:

Great info - thank you

[HOLDAN]

I would go with a Harrop FDFI2300 kit https://www.harrop.com.au/shop/automotive-performance/superchargers/harrop-tvs2300?make=30

& as I see you are in Brisbane I would suggest that you talk to (ex forum sponsor) Mark at Power Torque https://powertorqueengines.com.au/

They are Harrop & Walkinshaw dealers. :cheers:

Yes I've spoken with Mark

[Wonky]

I know of someone who went the Walkinshaw package on his E3 GTS. Basically has spent a lot of money since at various shops in order to finally get it running properly. I was told by an interstate well known former forum sponsor that the Edelbrock blowers are not easy to tune due to uneven length runners.

One other thing to look carefully into is their warranty which may not even apply to you depending on age and km on car.

IMHO better going to a well regarded workshop eg down here APS and have them install a Harrop or Maggie blower. Far more cost effective and probably be able to make more power??? Just investigate what is included eg many places don't even include upgraded valve springs in their quotes.

[Micks]

Very good advice Gaz, valve springs are very cheap insurance!!

[whitels1ss]

I know of someone who went the Walkinshaw package on his E3 GTS. Basically has spent a lot of money since at various shops in order to finally get it running properly.
I was told by a former interstate well known forum sponsor that the Edelbrock blowers are not easy to tune due to uneven length runners.


Yes, the Harrop would be my pick also Gary! :yup:

[scotty82]

I’ve got an LSA blower on top of my wagon. It’s had a few decent mods thrown at it.

A few things to consider... the Interchiller, reservoir and lid spacer are worthwhile
Mods. They do work very well and enchanced the whole package and performance. I had ID1000 injectors installed when I went more boost. 18% O.D. will be around 10-10.5 psi. The Stock cam will hold it back making more power.

A full exhaust system will also make good gains.

The Harrop FDFI2300 would be my choice of kit.

Any questions send me a PM.

[whitels1ss]

I’ve got an LSA blower on top of my wagon. It’s had a few decent mods thrown at it.

A few things to consider... the Interchiller, reservoir and lid spacer are worthwhile

The Harrop FDFI2300 would be my choice of kit.



The Harrop FDFI2300 doesn't run very high IAT's the intercooler system is a better design than some others.

The intercoolers are large enough & run in the sides of the intake manifold just in front of the ports, they are a very well designed & built unit.

[HOLDAN]

I know of someone who went the Walkinshaw package on his E3 GTS. Basically has spent a lot of money since at various shops in order to finally get it running properly. I was told by an interstate well known former forum sponsor that the Edelbrock blowers are not easy to tune due to uneven length runners.

One other thing to look carefully into is their warranty which may not even apply to you depending on age and km on car.

IMHO better going to a well regarded workshop eg down here APS and have them install a Harrop or Maggie blower. Far more cost effective and probably be able to make more power??? Just investigate what is included eg many places don't even include upgraded valve springs in their quotes.

Good advice - many thanks

[HOLDAN]

I’ve got an LSA blower on top of my wagon. It’s had a few decent mods thrown at it.

A few things to consider... the Interchiller, reservoir and lid spacer are worthwhile
Mods. They do work very well and enchanced the whole package and performance. I had ID1000 injectors installed when I went more boost. 18% O.D. will be around 10-10.5 psi. The Stock cam will hold it back making more power.

A full exhaust system will also make good gains.

The Harrop FDFI2300 would be my choice of kit.

Any questions send me a PM.

That's great - thanks Scotty

[Wonky]

My A6 LS3 with HTV1900 made 385rwkw on a dyno where stock LSAs run 310 - 325 (A6 would be at the lower end). Exhaust, tune, OTR, thermal blanket. An FDFI2300 would do better again. :)

[Micks]

My A6 LS3 with HTV1900 made 385rwkw on a dyno where stock LSAs run 310 - 325 (A6 would be at the lower end). Exhaust, tune, OTR, thermal blanket. An FDFI2300 would do better again. :)

Gaz ya better get the boss on board & fit the 2300! :yup: :goodjob:

[Wonky]

Only if one falls into my lap from heaven.............

[whitels1ss]

Would go well on your LS3 Gary! :yup:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DOcKqQjq1-0

[BLACK 346]

We all seem to crave more power on here, but how far past 400rwkw can you safely go without forged internals on these motors?

[Micks]

We all seem to crave more power on here, but how far past 400rwkw can you safely go without forged internals on these motors?

I agree Rod, if you look at the LS3 & an LSA engine, they both share the same cubes but that's about it. Be a brave man charging an oldish LS above 400rwkw without addressing the bottom end, oil system etc.

[whitels1ss]

Be a brave man charging an oldish LS above 400rwkw without addressing the bottom end, oil system etc.

As long as the tune is safe I would be more worried about the rest of the drive line. :lol:

[BLACK 346]

As long as the tune is safe I would be more worried about the rest of the drive line. :lol:

Yes, that could be the weak point that saves you ��

[Micks]

Yes not many A6 owners hold onto those autos when making serious power, generally opt for the stronger powerglide box :yup:

[whitels1ss]

Yes not many A6 owners hold onto those autos when making serious power, generally opt for the stronger powerglide box :yup:

I know of one quite serious powered turbo car running a TH400 with around 3.07 (from memory???) diff gears (to help cruising) :yup:

[BLACK 346]

I know of one quite serious powered turbo car running a TH400 with around 3.07 (from memory???) diff gears (to help cruising) :yup:

Yeah that would be the box to go imo Ed, still retain some road manners and ability to go on long distance trips.

[whitels1ss]

Yeah that would be the box to go imo Ed, still retain some road manners and ability to go on long distance trips.

Yeah Rod, I reckon it's the best compromise for a street car that gets used on the streets often.

[Wonky]

Yes not many A6 owners hold onto those autos when making serious power, generally opt for the stronger powerglide box :yup:
Except those lucky enough to be in WA where Streetquick Performance does a drive-in/drive-out (only) 4L80 conversion which is very strong apparently.

[white lie]

Why does it seem a requirement to lose a heap of gears in order to get a stronger box? Surely one can adapt a 6L90 from a Gen F GTS these days?

[whitels1ss]

Why does it seem a requirement to lose a heap of gears in order to get a stronger box? Surely one can adapt a 6L90 from a Gen F GTS these days?

Could be quite expensive but might well be an option?

I am wondering if it could be the fact that you would need many more parts in the same size box,
making more heat, requiring smaller parts which would in theory make the entire box weaker?

In the old powerglides all the parts are just big & strong.

[Micks]

Except those lucky enough to be in WA where Streetquick Performance does a drive-in/drive-out (only) 4L80 conversion which is very strong apparently.

Very expensive Gaz?

[scotty82]

I was thinking of 6L90E too a while ago...
Some things I found were;
The 6L90E is longer than a 6L80E. So a tailshaft mod is required.
A new gearbox crossmember is required.
6L90E torque converter has a higher stall rpm. It is also a 6 bolt flex plate vs a 3 bolt
Software update is required in the tune for a different TCM within the gearbox vs a 6L80E.

Talking to a few Auto builders... the 6L90E isn’t bulletproof. Plenty have gone kaboom and sifting for gold in the trans pan. Yes they are better but still will eventually fail or need a freshen up with big HP and abuse.

The 4L80E is a stronger box. My bro is bolting one up to a LSX454 in a HK. Beauty of the 4L80E vs a TH400 is that you get a strong box with an overdrive. Great for cruising and getting the RPM down so the motor isn’t revving it’s guts out on the highway.

[Tre-Cool]

for the average bloke with a blown car, your not gonna kill a stock 6l80e in a hurry.

So much so, i use them for conversions in other cars/models with an aftermarket controller.

[Wonky]

Very expensive Gaz?
Not sure Mick. Seem to remember hearing a figure of $8k, but could be imagining things.

[white lie]

I was thinking of 6L90E too a while ago...
Some things I found were;
The 6L90E is longer than a 6L80E. So a tailshaft mod is required.
A new gearbox crossmember is required.
6L90E torque converter has a higher stall rpm. It is also a 6 bolt flex plate vs a 3 bolt
Software update is required in the tune for a different TCM within the gearbox vs a 6L80E.

Talking to a few Auto builders... the 6L90E isn’t bulletproof. Plenty have gone kaboom and sifting for gold in the trans pan. Yes they are better but still will eventually fail or need a freshen up with big HP and abuse.

The 4L80E is a stronger box. My bro is bolting one up to a LSX454 in a HK. Beauty of the 4L80E vs a TH400 is that you get a strong box with an overdrive. Great for cruising and getting the RPM down so the motor isn’t revving it’s guts out on the highway.I think the biggest issue is "tuners" not knowing what they're doing with them. Seen loads of cars with the pressures jacked right up and the lockup removed, why I don't know!

[Wonky]

I think the biggest issue is "tuners" not knowing what they're doing with them. Seen loads of cars with the pressures jacked right up and the lockup removed, why I don't know!
Basically because that's what the ignorant used to do with earlier, far less complex boxes so more of the same. Unfortunately the 6L80 is a far more complex beast in which every adjustment affects at least one other parameter so is the quickest way to kill it. I only trust mine to Luis, the A6 guru. :thumbsup:

[BLACK 346]

Basically because that's what the ignorant used to do with earlier, far less complex boxes so more of the same. Unfortunately the 6L80 is a far more complex beast in which every adjustment affects at least one other parameter so is the quickest way to kill it. I only trust mine to Luis, the A6 guru. :thumbsup:

You give me hope Wonky. Mine has been tuned by Brad at Enhanced prior to any mods and is actually a far nicer box now than it was when i first purchased the car.

[izaks]

Whipple 2.9 Front feed kit for the Chev SS - made 600rwhp with exhaust and cam on pump fuel (at 5,500ft asl)
Perfect fit and comes with everything, including injectors, thermostat on performance air filter

[HOLDAN]

Whipple 2.9 Front feed kit for the Chev SS - made 600rwhp with exhaust and cam on pump fuel (at 5,500ft asl)
Perfect fit and comes with everything, including injectors, thermostat on performance air filter

How much for this setup?

[white lie]

The kit used to be around the $12-13k mark, may have changed. Contact Yella Terra.
They're rear fed though, not sure who makes the front feed version and if they're easily available here or if it's a US thing if he's talking Chevy SS.

[sportwagon]

I enquired at a well known workshop here in Perth and was told that the front entry whipple supplied fitted and tuned was about $18000 a harrop 2600 about $13500 and lsa blower $12000.

[BLACKVE]

for those in Adelaide Old willall guys

[HOLDAN]

Hi guys

Is it legal in Qld for a blower to protrude through the bonnet.

Regards Dan

[whitels1ss]

I can't imagine it being legal on any later model car.

It is hard enough getting something stealth & mild legally approved in most states.

[BLACK 346]

I can't imagine it being legal on any later model car.

It is hard enough getting something stealth & mild legally approved in most states.

That is exactly what I was thinking. Hard to find any straight forward legislation in any state of Australia, but bottom line is if you get defected I doubt the car will meet the emission requirements and on top of that would need to be engineered to have a blower (I assume you are talking about a VF that did not come factory fitted with a blower). I went to all manner of effort to keep mine hidden.

[white lie]

You can't have any moving parts unguarded so if the pulley was the highest part, it would need a guard of some sort around it. If its just the case of the blower then it can't pose a further risk to injury should someone end up on your bonnet.
There's also rules about affecting your field of vision but I'm assuming you're talking about a late gen car with modern tech blower, not some tall stacked 6/71.

But as the other guys are saying, even if it is legal, you've still got a massive "pull me over and defect me" sign on the front of the car. Best off just putting a cowl on it if it can't fit under the bonnet.

[HOLDAN]

That is exactly what I was thinking. Hard to find any straight forward legislation in any state of Australia, but bottom line is if you get defected I doubt the car will meet the emission requirements and on top of that would need to be engineered to have a blower (I assume you are talking about a VF that did not come factory fitted with a blower). I went to all manner of effort to keep mine hidden.

Yes I'm referring to my VF that did not come with a factory fitted blower

[HOLDAN]

You can't have any moving parts unguarded so if the pulley was the highest part, it would need a guard of some sort around it. If its just the case of the blower then it can't pose a further risk to injury should someone end up on your bonnet.
There's also rules about affecting your field of vision but I'm assuming you're talking about a late gen car with modern tech blower, not some tall stacked 6/71.

But as the other guys are saying, even if it is legal, you've still got a massive "pull me over and defect me" sign on the front of the car. Best off just putting a cowl on it if it can't fit under the bonnet.

Thanks for this - I certainly don't want too much unwarranted attention

[HOLDAN]

Good morning

I'm planning my next power adding journey, following a tumultuous 10 year journey with my VESS. I haven't decided which direction yet - blower or twin turbo and I'm not in too much of a hurry - the car has only done 20,000k's. I'd like to run up a few more km's before swapping out the internals.

For now though, I'd like to upgrade the exhaust. I had a 3" on my VESS and I was never happy with the drone at 1,800rpm - drove me nuts. So I do not want a repeat of that.

What suggestions do you have please

Regards, Dan

[whitels1ss]

Good morning

I'm planning my next power adding journey,

I haven't decided which direction yet - blower or twin turbo

For now though, I'd like to upgrade the exhaust.

I had a 3" on my VESS and I was never happy with the drone at 1,800rpm - drove me nuts. So I do not want a repeat of that.

and I'm not in too much of a hurry - the car has only done 20,000k's.

What suggestions do you have please

Regards, Dan

(I have merged this into the same thread in case anyone doesn't know about your car so it makes it more simple for people to know the details of what sort of car

& stuff you are talking about without hopefully repeating questions about it which you have previously answered in another thread about the same car.) :cheers:



I would not change the exhaust until you are certain which way you are going with forced induction.


Obviously there is no point spending money on extractors if you are fitting turbos

& when you fit a PD blower the car will sound much different & much louder to being naturally aspirated.

When I fitted my blower one of the first things I noticed was that it made it sound much louder & even the cam sounded more angry at idle.


My advice would be to do heaps of homework before spending any money doing anything.

[HOLDAN]

(I have merged this into the same thread in case anyone doesn't know about your car so it makes it more simple for people to know the details of what sort of car

& stuff you are talking about without hopefully repeating questions about it which you have previously answered in another thread about the same car.) :cheers:



I would not change the exhaust until you are certain which way you are going with forced induction.


Obviously there is no point spending money on extractors if you are fitting turbos

& when you fit a PD blower the car will sound much different & much louder to being naturally aspirated.

When I fitted my blower one of the first things I noticed was that it made it sound much louder & even the cam sounded more angry at idle.


My advice would be to do heaps of homework before spending any money doing anything.

Thanks for your post.

I agree with doing my homework - I think I was a little hasty when I built the VE although a lot of what we did had not been done before so there was a fair bit of experimenting. And then changing as more parts became available and more knowledge was gained.

[HOLDAN]

My biggest mistake with the VE was sticking with the 6L80E gearbox. I had some stupid notion that I needed to keep that box because I towed a ski boat. I dropped 10 large on the poxy thing and still broke it. However in saying that, I still require a gearbox with an overdrive because I use the car for long trips - any suggestions??

So I would replace the gearbox and also replace the diff - I had a 9" strange and wavetrac centre.

[whitels1ss]

I think it's best if the car is a daily driven street car to keep it mild,
it's not hard to set up a package with a PD blower like a Harrop FIFD2300 to run low eleven second quarter miles (perhaps even into the ten's)
that will be quite reliable, still drive with good manners & return reasonable fuel economy that doesn't attract any attention
from the boys in blue whenever you drive it.

The more you turn up the wick after that the more all those things suffer

but it all depends on what you want to get out of your car & how you plan on using it as to how far you want to go.


Unfortunately though as Jeremy Clarkson says "there is no such thing as enough power." :lol:

[HOLDAN]

I think it's best if the car is a daily driven street car to keep it mild,
it's not hard to set up a package with a PD blower like a Harrop FIFD2300 to run low eleven second quarter miles (perhaps even into the ten's)
that will be quite reliable, still drive with good manners & return reasonable fuel economy that doesn't attract any attention
from the boys in blue whenever you drive it.

The more you turn up the wick after that the more all those things suffer

but it all depends on what you want to get out of your car & how you plan on using it as to how far you want to go.


Unfortunately though as Jeremy Clarkson says "there is no such thing as enough power." :lol:

Low 11's high 10's would suit me perfectly. It is a daily driver (although I haven't been driving it much this year but that will change next year).

I like the PD blower option. What gearbox would you suggest?

[whitels1ss]

As long as you don't push too much out of it you should be able to keep the original gearbox (obviously will need a tune)

but you would most likely find that a truetrac diff centre would make it stay more in a straight line when you break traction.

[HOLDAN]

As long as you don't push too much out of it you should be able to keep the original gearbox (obviously will need a tune)

but you would most likely find that a truetrac diff centre would make it stay more in a straight line when you break traction.

Mmmmmm - ok. My VE NA made 550hp at the wheels and the 6L80E did not cope. Even with a total re-build with heaps of tough goodies and $10k

[HOLDAN]

As long as you don't push too much out of it you should be able to keep the original gearbox (obviously will need a tune)

but you would most likely find that a truetrac diff centre would make it stay more in a straight line when you break traction.

I broke a tru trac so I went 9" strange and wave trac

[whitels1ss]

I broke a tru trac so I went 9" strange and wave trac

I don't think you should break a truetrac with an under 500RWKW daily driver street package in an auto

unless you have a big stallie with sticky tires at a drag strip.

Plenty of people are using them.

[whitels1ss]

Mmmmmm - ok. My VE NA made 550hp at the wheels and the 6L80E did not cope.
Even with a total re-build with heaps of tough goodies and $10k

I don't know anything about the other NA car Dan but it doesn't sound like it would have delivered the power in the same way as a PD blower.

[HOLDAN]

I don't know anything about the other NA car Dan but it doesn't sound like it would have delivered the power in the same way as a PD blower.

It was a 407 stroker with a 2,800rpm custom TCE stallie.

[HOLDAN]

I haven't been in a blown car but I like the idea of the instant power delivery and the whine of the pulley

[whitels1ss]

It was a 407 stroker with a 2,800rpm custom TCE stallie.

Yeah, that could be quite harsh on a transmission if you had sticky tires & got a bit of traction. :lol:

[HOLDAN]

Yeah, that could be quite harsh on a transmission if you had sticky tires & got a bit of traction. :lol:

Yes - I broke the trutrac at willowbank - first time I ever tried stalling it up at the start, leapt off the line, broke traction, hit the limiter, and onto the tow truck

[whitels1ss]

Yes - I broke the trutrac at willowbank - first time I ever tried stalling it up at the start,
leapt off the line, broke traction, hit the limiter, and onto the tow truck

That surprises me, they normally are stronger than that.

(I would actually expect the transmission would have failed before the truetrac. )

[whitels1ss]

I haven't been in a blown car but I like the idea of the instant power delivery and the whine of the pulley

Should see if someone local can give you a ride, perhaps even talk to Mark at Powertorque, he may be able to arrange something?

It certainly hooks you in. :woohoo:

[HOLDAN]

Should see if someone local can give you a ride, perhaps even talk to Mark at Powertorque, he may be able to arrange something?

It certainly hooks you in. :woohoo:

Good idea - thanks

[Wonky]

My advice would be to do heaps of homework before spending any money doing anything.

Absolutely! Very expensive to make the wrong choice.

As far as exhausts go, the choice seems much more limited now. :( I have had 3 full 3" KPM systems on my 3 VEs and have been very happy with them - basically no drone even on an A6. The Senator system is one of their slightly cheaper SLC systems but still sounds OK. Unfortunately KPM systems no longer made. My next choice would have been Di Filippo but they've been bought out by Manta and I've heard comments on Manta systems droning - not sure how true. The other choices used to be HM (out of business) and Harrop but I'm not sure who is making them now or even if they're still available.

[Wonky]

Mmmmmm - ok. My VE NA made 550hp at the wheels and the 6L80E did not cope. Even with a total re-build with heaps of tough goodies and $10k

Choices are built 6L80 although as you discovered they're still quite breakable, 6L90 but have heard conflicting stories on how well they hold up. 4L80 - see http://www.streetquick.com.au/lsx-performance/transmission-upgrades/69-ve-vf-transmission-upgrades Only available in WA but I'm sure Powertorque or someone there can do similar. :thumbsup:

[whitels1ss]

Absolutely! Very expensive to make the wrong choice.

As far as exhausts go, the choice seems much more limited now........

In my post I was really meaning to say that if Dan is thinking of going turbo, (instead of a PD blower,) fitting extractors now would be a total waste of money

& on a VF if you do extractors & cats etc it would need a tune & that's a waste of money as it will need another tune in a couple of months for the forced induction. :yup:

[white lie]

My next choice would have been Di Filippo but they've been bought out by Manta and I've heard comments on Manta systems droning - not sure how true. The other choices used to be HM (out of business) and Harrop but I'm not sure who is making them now or even if they're still available.

I believe Manta still build the DPE version, not just their own.

I went with Manta around 7-8 years ago when DF stopped making them locally and the quality control went down the gurgler. No regrets, its the best sounding system I've ever owned, no drone and loud when you're giving it grief.

I would go with Manta or Empire Performance personally but Harrop do make one (pretty sure they're cheaper than the Manta equivalent too).

[Wonky]

I've heard a few references to Empire recently. How long have they been around?

[BLACK 346]

Magnaflow are another to consider. Heard their twin 3 on a VE at Enhanced Auto, it sounded killer. I have since bought one and now waiting to have it installed.

[white lie]

I've heard a few references to Empire recently. How long have they been around?Not that long compared to the others. Aussie owned, WA based, like Manta.

One thing worth noting is that the more expensive systems from Manta and Empire use 304 grade stainless where Harrop, Xforce etc use 409, so be sure to compare apples with apples, not just "Oh they're all stainless". The 304 will comfortably last 10+ years (Manta even offer a 10 year warranty on their stainless systems).

[whitels1ss]

I actually recently replaced a "Redback" mild steel exhaust that I fitted 12 years ago because it was just starting to get a few rusty pin holes in it.

When I bought it I thought it would have only lasted about 5 years & I didn't expect to keep the car that long anyway. :lol:



& BTW it's since had a couple of patches put on to it & now gone onto a mate's car. :lmao:

[BLACK 346]

I actually recently replaced a "Redback" mild steel exhaust that I fitted 12 years ago because it was just starting to get a few rusty pin holes in it.

When I bought it I thought it would have only lasted about 5 years & I didn't expect to keep the car that long anyway. :lol:



& BTW it's since had a couple of patches put on to it & now gone onto a mate's car. :lmao:

Yeah, I cannot see the justification for the super expensive stainless, unless you are parking your car in the surf.

[Micks]

Ive had some ms zorsts fitted to previous LS's that lasted six month past the warranty! So I pay a few bucks more now & forget about them, but each to their own.

[whitels1ss]

Ive had some ms zorsts fitted to previous LS's that lasted six month past the warranty! So I pay a few bucks more now & forget about them, but each to their own.

Some are better quality than others Mick

The old "Redback" is Australian made out of Australian steel & lasts quite well but I know there is also plenty of cheap crap on the market. :lol:

[BLACK 346]

Some are better quality than others Mick

The old "Redback" is Australian made out of Australian steel & lasts quite well but I know there is also plenty of cheap crap on the market. :lol:

That is true. Some climates are harsher as well, my mild steel exhaust didnt cope well in the NT weather.

[HOLDAN]

Hi guys

Here is where my thinking is at the moment.

My car has only done 20,000kms so I'm not in a hurry to change crank, rods, pistons etc.

I like the Harrop 2300 and I would like to keep the setup under 400-500kW (engine), with a view to ramping it up once the engine is older and I would replace internals, gearbox, diff etc.

Is it possible to have the 2300 installed now, with soft tune and then later on wind it up?

[whitels1ss]

Yes, good choice,

if you fit a Harrop 2300 using the biggest top (supercharger) pulley should give you around 430rwkw, (or a bit more if you fit a blower friendly cam,)


you can do other stuff later & spin up the blower for more boost with a smaller top pulley later is you want. :cheers:

[HOLDAN]

Yes, good choice,

if you fit a Harrop 2300 using the biggest top (supercharger) pulley should give you around 430rwkw, (or a bit more if you fit a blower friendly cam,)


you can do other stuff later & spin up the blower for more boost with a smaller top pulley later is you want. :cheers:

Sweet - thanks
I'll crack on with my cunning plan then
Would you still replace valve springs with a soft set up?
And anything else I should replace?

[white lie]

Yes, good choice,

if you fit a Harrop 2300 using the biggest top (supercharger) pulley should give you around 430rwkw, (or a bit more if you fit a blower friendly cam,)


you can do other stuff later & spin up the blower for more boost with a smaller top pulley later is you want. :cheers:

570+ rwhp on low boost a mild tune? Sounds optimistic to me but maybe I'm wrong.

[whitels1ss]

570+ rwhp on low boost a mild tune? Sounds optimistic to me but maybe I'm wrong.

That's my opinion from an LS3 with a 2300 Harrop running around 10psi, I honestly don't think I am being over optimistic.

LS3's are a great motor & the Harrop has a great intercooler manifold system that works very well.



Dan, will you be getting PowerTorque to do the work?

&

Yes.... Valve springs would be a must IMHO.

[HOLDAN]

That's my opinion from an LS3 with a 2300 Harrop running around 10psi, I honestly don't think I am being over optimistic.

LS3's are a great motor & the Harrop has a great intercooler manifold system that works very well.



Dan, will you be getting PowerTorque to do the work?

&

Yes.... Valve springs would be a must IMHO.

Thank you

Yes probably get Powertorque to do the work or I might take it to Terry at Paramount in Toowoomba - he did all the work on the VE

[whitels1ss]

Thank you

Yes probably get Powertorque to do the work or I might take it to Terry at Paramount in Toowoomba - he did all the work on the VE

I am certainly not knocking your guy "Terry" but I would personally use PowerTorque

simply because I think they would have more experience with fitting, tuning & getting the best out of these. :cheers:

[HOLDAN]

I am certainly not knocking your guy "Terry" but I would personally use PowerTorque

simply because I think they would have more experience with fitting, tuning & getting the best out of these. :cheers:

No dramas - I understand what you are saying

[whitels1ss]

Have you decided when you are likely to be getting it done?

[HOLDAN]

Have you decided when you are likely to be getting it done?

In the new year

[white lie]

That's my opinion from an LS3 with a 2300 Harrop running around 10psi, I honestly don't think I am being over optimistic.

LS3's are a great motor & the Harrop has a great intercooler manifold system that works very well.



Dan, will you be getting PowerTorque to do the work?

&

Yes.... Valve springs would be a must IMHO.

10psi I think it will probably make around the power you're saying, is that the lowest the 2300 will go?

[whitels1ss]

10psi I think it will probably make around the power you're saying, is that the lowest the 2300 will go?

Yes, I was thinking those numbers running around 10psi, that seems about the norm.

I don't know even if they supply a big enough pulley to make it run less boost?

I guess it's possible? :cheers:

[whitels1ss]

Might be worth reading the fitting manual, could give you some more understanding of what goes where & how it all works if you have not seen it before.

You will find it on the lower left side of this page in the "Product Downloads" section.

https://www.harrop.com.au/shop/automotive-performance/superchargers/harrop-tvs2300/fdfi2300-holden-ve-vf-commodore

[Wonky]

Sweet - thanks
I'll crack on with my cunning plan then
Would you still replace valve springs with a soft set up?
And anything else I should replace?

Definitely do valve springs and probably pushrods too, plus I had my crank pinned while it was getting a cam (LS9 cam - complete waste of time and money). Heat is the biggest killer with superchargers so while you are at it definitely add at least thermal blankets - cheap mod while charger being fitted. See https://fiinterchillers.com/thermal-reduction-blanket/ (I have one fitted) and even https://fiinterchillers.com/blower-spacer-plates/ if you can afford it while the charger is being fitted.

My HTV1900 on LS3 makes 390rwkw @ 10 lb boost on APS' very tough dyno. Was 385rwkw before cam but actually lost torque........ :bawl: I know of at least one other dyno it would run close to 440rwkw on.

Mine runs at about 20C above ambient at cruise which isn't too bad.

[whitels1ss]

Looks like the lowest boost available pulley on the Harrop FIFD 2300 will make around 9.33 psi as an average.

See graph lower right hand side.....


https://www.harrop.com.au/shop/system/download/130712_FDFI_TECH_GUIDE%20.pdf

[whitels1ss]

Definitely do valve springs and probably pushrods too, plus I had my crank pinned while it was getting a cam (LS9 cam - complete waste of time and money). Heat is the biggest killer with superchargers so while you are at it definitely add at least thermal blankets - cheap mod while charger being fitted. See https://fiinterchillers.com/thermal-reduction-blanket/ (I have one fitted) and even https://fiinterchillers.com/blower-spacer-plates/ if you can afford it while the charger is being fitted.

My HTV1900 on LS3 makes 390rwkw @ 10 lb boost on APS' very tough dyno. Was 385rwkw before cam but actually lost torque........ :bawl: I know of at least one other dyno it would run close to 440rwkw on.

Mine runs at about 20C above ambient at cruise which isn't too bad.

Gary, I reckon the new FIFD models are supposed to run pretty cool IAT's

They advertise that they have done heaps of R&D getting them pretty right.

[Micks]

Id be looking at the refrigerated interchillers Kirk does :yup: https://www.facebook.com/ForcedInductionInterchillers/

[whitels1ss]

Id be looking at the refrigerated interchillers Kirk does :yup: https://www.facebook.com/ForcedInductionInterchillers/

I honestly don't think you need to worry about it with the new Harrop Mick. :nono:

[Wonky]

I honestly don't think you need to worry about it with the new Harrop Mick. :nono:It will obviously help but very expensive. IIRC around $3k and 5 or 6 hours to fit.

[whitels1ss]

Here is a picture of inside the Harrop FDFI charger,

you can see why they run cool IAT's with the large double pass intercoolers on top of each intake bank of ports. :yup:


6343

[white lie]

Double pass?

The issue with the design is more that the gap between the intercooler and lid is quite small, creating a lot of unnecessary heat. While upwards discharge are the best (they isolate a lot of engine heat), there are gains to be had by spacing the lid out further if you can fit it under the bonnet.

One of the big downfalls of the Harrop kits was also their heat exchanger at the front. They don't work nearly as well as the PWR or Magnuson equivalent at getting the heat out.

An interchiller will see well below ambient air temps where a good W2A will generally be 20 degrees above as a minimum.

[whitels1ss]

They actually call it a "2 pass" & it does work well, plenty of dyno results from them all over the net to prove it.
(I actually have not seen any of the results with anyone using an interchiller but I am sure there might be some.)

I looked into the Magnusson when I was supercharging my LS1, I looked at other brands as well
but the main reason I went Harrop HTV2300 instead was that when I spoke to a few highly respected tuners
they all told me that the intake system & the intercooler on the latest HTV black series was way more efficient than the Magnusson.

When the car was tuned the dyno results were excellent & I was very happy with their advice.

Anyway, let's not continue talking off topic about older model superchargers, for older model cars, these new FDFI's work great.


Sure, an interchiller would get the IAT's even cooler
but
I think there would be a miniscule percentage of guys fitting interchillers these days with the new FDFI Harrops
& I personally don't think the OP will need to spend so much money fitting one to get an excellent result with his car. :cheers:

[white lie]

Most generally see around 40rwhp (give or take) from fitting a chiller and tuning to suit but the biggest advantage is being able to consistently make the power over and over again with no heat soak or making the same power as a cold night on a 40 degree day.

I'm not affiliated with FII in any way, shape or form but they do work.

[whitels1ss]

Most generally see around 40rwhp (give or take) from fitting a chiller and tuning to suit but the biggest advantage is being able to consistently make the power over and over again with no heat soak or making the same power as a cold night on a 40 degree day.

I'm not affiliated with FII in any way, shape or form but they do work.

Yeah, fair enough,
I have not really looked into them
but
if what wonky says is correct that they cost around $3k (plus fitting & tuning)
& what you say is correct that they only really give 40rwhp & with no heat soak making the same power on a 40 degree day as a cold night,
I hardly think that it would be worth the money.

We have a few 40 degree plus days coming up,
I will keep an eye out on my IAT's if I get the chance to take it for a run
but the last time I checked was on a 41 degree day & IIRC they were sitting at around 53 degrees.

[white lie]

They're 3.5k if you get the works. They start at $2300 plus fitting.

But even fitting spacer plates, a thermal blanket and increasing the capacity of the cooling system will yield very good results.

[whitels1ss]

They're 3.5k if you get the works. They start at $2300 plus fitting.

But even fitting spacer plates, a thermal blanket and increasing the capacity of the cooling system will yield very good results.

Yeah white lie, (sorry I don't know your actual name?)
I know the spacer plates & thermal blankets work well also to keep the intake temps down.

Someone should start another separate thread about IAT's with forced induction :idea:
to keep it all together & easy to find. I think it would be quite interesting & worthwhile.


I know some people do have massive problems with superchargers with very high IAT's one of my very good mates has a Whipple 2900
on a blown stroker & he suffered very high numbers even on a cool day until he fitted a water meth kit & spacers.


You got an interchiller on your Magnusson?

[white lie]

Yes, a seperate thread could definitely have some good info in there. Water meth (or even straight water) can also be effective. They all have pros and cons.

No, I don't have a chiller. It's kind of on the list of "to do's" but I don't drive the car much at all anymore. I think it would have been lucky to have done 500kms last year. At the same time, I'm pretty close to putting it back to stock as they're getting hard to find. I'd probably get an LSA based HSV and play with that.

[whitels1ss]

Yes, a seperate thread could definitely have some good info in there. Water meth (or even straight water) can also be effective. They all have pros and cons.


My mate is very happy with his 50/50 mix water meth kit which is set up progressively & only starts to trigger at around 7psi & flows more as the boost increases.

He goes for ages on a tank of water meth & it's got plenty of safeguards built in but I know problems are possible with anything.

[whitels1ss]

At the same time,
I'm pretty close to putting it back to stock as they're getting hard to find.
I'd probably get an LSA based HSV and play with that.

On the other side they are only going to get harder to find & hopefully (for you) it will be worth more money
so you may as well hang on to it & enjoy. :yup:

[BLACK 346]

My mate is very happy with his 50/50 mix water meth kit which is set up progressively & only starts to trigger at around 7psi & flows more as the boost increases.

He goes for ages on a tank of water meth & it's got plenty of safeguards built in but I know problems are possible with anything.

Yeah, the water meth lasts quite well. obviously dependent on the size of the tank you are running and how hard you drive. As I said to you in PM Ed, mine is going back in again after xmas to get some extra jets installed.

[whitels1ss]

Yeah, the water meth lasts quite well. obviously dependent on the size of the tank you are running and how hard you drive.
As I said to you in PM Ed, mine is going back in again after xmas to get some extra jets installed.

Look forward to hearing the results from the dyno Rod.


Seen some stuff on the net & quite a few people in the states are just fitting it up
without even so much as a touch up tune but I don't think I would be so game. :doh:

[BLACK 346]

Look forward to hearing the results from the dyno Rod.


Seen some stuff on the net & quite a few people in the states are just fitting it up
without even so much as a touch up tune but I don't think I would be so game. :doh:

Only running one nozzle at the moment so Brad was not too happy with the temps. Saw 90 degrees on the dyno. Quite a hot day, but still not good enough. He wants to see
it under 70 at least. I think it only made 369rwkw, but no way he was going to lean on it and fk my engine :) We will get the extra jets in after xmas for some cooling goodness.
Torque was through the roof though and it is still only running 10 pounds of boost which is pretty tame. Brad was running 18 when he first put the blower on and it blew well past 400, he refused to leave it at that level due to the stock bottom end and trans reliability. 2 years later and it still is reliable and strong as ever. I will put the dyno sheet up later.
It is still the best mod I have ever done, just love it to death. Combined with the Gilmer drive it just makes the best noise and puts a grin on your face from ear to ear.

[whitels1ss]

Only running one nozzle at the moment so Brad was not too happy with the temps. Saw 90 degrees on the dyno. Quite a hot day, but still not good enough. He wants to see
it under 70 at least. I think it only made 369rwkw, but no way he was going to lean on it and fk my engine :) We will get the extra jets in after xmas for some cooling goodness.
Torque was through the roof though and it is still only running 10 pounds of boost which is pretty tame. Brad was running 18 when he first put the blower on and it blew well past 400, he refused to leave it at that level due to the stock bottom end and trans reliability. 2 years later and it still is reliable and strong as ever. I will put the dyno sheet up later.
It is still the best mod I have ever done, just love it to death. Combined with the Gilmer drive it just makes the best noise and puts a grin on your face from ear to ear.

My mate only has one nozzle but it looks like it squirts like a fire hose. :lol:

[BLACK 346]

My mate only has one nozzle but it looks like it squirts like a fire hose. :lol:

How do you see that it squirts like a fire hose Ed?

[whitels1ss]

How do you see that it squirts like a fire hose Ed?

The nozzle goes into the intake pipe & I took the pipe off & activated it to have a look to see how much it sprayed.

[BLACK 346]

The nozzle goes into the intake pipe & I took the pipe off & activated it to have a look to see how much it sprayed.

Thanks Ed. Mine is in a spacer between the intake pipe and T/B. Brad did say that he doesn't like them in the pipe, not sure why, but I will ask him and get back with an answer.

And to be honest, I have no idea what the nozzles should be putting out.

[whitels1ss]

Thanks Ed. Mine is in a spacer between the intake pipe and T/B. Brad did say that he doesn't like them in the pipe, not sure why, but I will ask him and get back with an answer.

And to be honest, I have no idea what the nozzles should be putting out.

Luis at APS in Melbourne fitted the water meth & tuned David's car.

[HOLDAN]

What are the Whipples like?

[whitels1ss]

What are the Whipples like?

Whipple twin screws vs Eaton TVSR superchargers:


When they first brought the twin screws out, they created less heat problems under more extreme uses than the early Eaton twin 3 blade rotors, they were great.....

but when Eaton fixed the problem by changing from the old 3 blade rotors & brought out the 4 blade TVSR rotors the whole game changed.

(I know that some Whipple dealers might even still try & sell the old heat story but it has been out of date since the TVSR rotors came out.)

The Eaton TVSR rotors can safely run spinning at up to around 24,000 rpm so they are fantastic on the street.
(Talk to your tuner about the picking size to suit your needs between a 2,300 or 2,650.)

See this link.

https://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/products/engine-solutions/superchargers/tvs-overview.html


Reliability is just one good reason why so many car manufacturers (including General Motors, Mercedes Benz & Ford) fit Magnusson & Harrop TVSR superchargers OEM with factory warranty.

(Recommended supercharger oil service life is over 160,000kms)


AFAIK. Whipple is more expensive, still has rear intake, sits higher & the intercooler manifold offered for any of the LS engines in Australia is not as good as the
Harrop or Magnusson superchargers.

There are probably a few other reasons why most people do not fit them.

[HOLDAN]

Whipple twin screws vs Eaton TVSR superchargers:


When they first brought the twin screws out, they created less heat problems under more extreme uses than the early Eaton twin 3 blade rotors, they were great.....

but when Eaton fixed the problem by changing from the old 3 blade rotors & brought out the 4 blade TVSR rotors the whole game changed.

(I know that some Whipple dealers might even still try & sell the old heat story but it has been out of date since the TVSR rotors came out.)

The Eaton TVSR rotors can safely run spinning at up to around 24,000 rpm so they are fantastic on the street.
(Talk to your tuner about the picking size to suit your needs between a 2,300 or 2,650.)

See this link.

https://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/products/engine-solutions/superchargers/tvs-overview.html


Reliability is just one good reason why so many car manufacturers (including General Motors, Mercedes Benz & Ford) fit Magnusson & Harrop TVSR superchargers OEM with factory warranty.

(Recommended supercharger oil service life is over 160,000kms)


AFAIK. Whipple is more expensive, still has rear intake, sits higher & the intercooler manifold offered for any of the LS engines in Australia is not as good as the
Harrop or Magnusson superchargers.

There are probably a few other reasons why most people do not fit them.

That is an excellent response - really appreciate it - thanks

[HOLDAN]

Hi guys

Next Friday, I'm heading back up the hill to meet with Terry at Paramount Performance. We will be discussing my plans for supercharging my VFSS - very excited indeed.

[whitels1ss]

Great stuff Dan, you will love driving with a blower. :cheers:

[HOLDAN]

Great stuff Dan, you will love driving with a blower. :cheers:

Thank you - yes I am looking forward to it. It will be a significant change from my VESS that was naturally aspirated - still made 550hp at the wheels. And Terry did all the work on that one.

[BLACK 346]

Thank you - yes I am looking forward to it. It will be a significant change from my VESS that was naturally aspirated - still made 550hp at the wheels. And Terry did all the work on that one.

So over 400rwkw NA? What was done to achieve that if you don't mind me asking? I assume stroker, massive cam?

[whitels1ss]

So over 400rwkw NA? What was done to achieve that if you don't mind me asking? I assume stroker, massive cam?

Some threads with some details of the car Rod........

http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?165166-Thinking-of-Selling-the-VE

http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?167698-Fuel-System-Upgrade-for-L98-406ci-Stroker

http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?168495-E85-Upgrade

[HOLDAN]

So over 400rwkw NA? What was done to achieve that if you don't mind me asking? I assume stroker, massive cam?

Where do I start...………..
Had the 6 litre L98 stroked to 406ci. Callies crank and rods; CP pistons; a lot of head work by Nathan Higgins, Roller rockers, 102mm FAST inlet manifold; Crow custom grind camshaft; custom 2,800rpm TCE lock up stallie; Toughened 6L80E gearbox with custom deep pan oil sump; Strange 9" diff, wavetrac centre. 1 and 7/8" ceramic costed headers, 3" exhaust. Loved that car.

[whitels1ss]

Where do I start...………..


Had the 6 litre L98 stroked to 406ci.
Callies crank and rods; CP pistons;
a lot of head work by Nathan Higgins,
Roller rockers,
102mm FAST inlet manifold;
Crow custom grind camshaft;
custom 2,800rpm TCE lock up stallie;
Toughened 6L80E gearbox with custom deep pan oil sump;
Strange 9" diff, wavetrac centre.
1 and 7/8" ceramic costed headers,
3" exhaust.

If you get a decent top mount blower with your new car it will be a heck of a lot more refined to drive than your old car was. :goodjob:

[HOLDAN]

If you get a decent top mount blower with your new car it will be a heck of a lot more refined to drive than your old car was. :goodjob:

I did like the old orange - and I can't wait to have the blower installed.

I love the whining sound when it spins up - so I guess I'll need to install a gilmer drive. However, do you know if the whine is too loud when cruising on the open road?

[whitels1ss]

I do not think you would fit a Gilmer drive on a FDFI blower.

They use them more on the rear of the older rear driven blower that uses a jack shaft to the rear from a belt driven pulley on the front.

[HOLDAN]

I do not think you would fit a Gilmer drive on a FDFI blower.

They use them more on the rear of the older rear driven blower that uses a jack shaft to the rear from a belt driven pulley on the front.

OK thanks - and does the whine cause problems at cruise speeds? - 100km/hr??

[whitels1ss]

It will be fine Dan, you won't even hear it until you get on the throttle a bit.

[HOLDAN]

It will be fine Dan, you won't even hear it until you get on the throttle a bit.

Sweet as - thanks

[Wonky]

Are you talking with a Gilmer belt or not Dan?

[whitels1ss]

Are you talking with a Gilmer belt or not Dan?

Gary if he fits a modern type of FDFI blower he won't be using a Gilmer drive.

[Wonky]

Guy with VF SSV and 2300 FDFI blower who repainted my front bar said my blower was much louder than his when he drove it from APS to his shop (about 2km) and to me mine's not loud at all.

[whitels1ss]

Guy with VF SSV and 2300 FDFI blower who repainted my front bar said my blower was much louder than his when he drove it from APS to his shop (about 2km) and to me mine's not loud at all.

Yeah FDFI are quieter than the HTV series blowers. :yup:



(Especially if the HTV has a Gilmer upgrade on the back.) :lmao:

[white lie]

Gary if he fits a modern type of FDFI blower he won't be using a Gilmer drive.Enhanced make them to suit Harrop FDFI (as well as just about every other blower out there).

https://www.enhancedautomotive.com.au/harrop-gilmer-kit

[BLACK 346]

OK thanks - and does the whine cause problems at cruise speeds? - 100km/hr??

I have a gilmer drive on the front of my top mount. Cannot hear it inside the car at freeway speeds, but get up it and the thing howls like a banshee.

[BLACK 346]

Enhanced make them to suit Harrop FDFI (as well as just about every other blower out there).

https://www.enhancedautomotive.com.au/harrop-gilmer-kit

These are a top quality bit of kit made by Brad in house. They sound killer as well as eliminating all belt slip.

[whitels1ss]

Enhanced make them to suit Harrop FDFI (as well as just about every other blower out there).

https://www.enhancedautomotive.com.au/harrop-gilmer-kit

Fair enough. :cheers:

Never knew Enhanced was making any.

I have seen quite a few FDFI Harrop blowers and never seen anyone using one.

I have not seen any even as options on the Harrop website.

The normal 8 rib pulley system is quiet & seems to work well. :goodjob:

[whitels1ss]

Just reading the "Customer Responsibilities and Limitations on Warranty" section of the Harrop Warranty.

I would guess other blower manufacturers would have similar warranty clauses
about aftermarket parts being fitted so I can understand another reason why we are not seeing too many of them with
new supercharger instalations......

Section 3.4 reads....


"The warranty will not apply if the supercharger is modified or used after fitment of other non-Harrop products or accessories,
including but not limited to drive pulleys, toothed Gilmer Drives,
water methanol injection and/or air conditioning based interchiller systems."

6465

[SASLS1]

Having the warranty worded this way, is a clear marketing strategy to make you buy more Harrop products.

Some people like the noise of Glimer drives, but the vast majority of people I've heard express their opinion of them, think there too noisy and annoying driving in a street car, and draw un-necessary attention.

I'm definitely not a fan of the noise they make, it'll be cool for the first 5 minutes, then Bug The Hell out of you, like a loud annoying droning exhaust that would get on your nerve in no time...

Each to their own...

[whitels1ss]

Having the warranty worded this way, is a clear marketing strategy to make you buy more Harrop products.

Some people like the noise of Glimer drives, but the vast majority of people I've heard express their opinion of them, think there too noisy and annoying driving in a street car, and draw un-necessary attention.

I'm definitely not a fan of the noise they make, it'll be cool for the first 5 minutes, then Bug The Hell out of you, like a loud annoying droning exhaust that would get on your nerve in no time...

Each to their own...

I also think a more direct or solid drive might also change some physical loads on the supercharger/pulley system.


Harrop make their own stuff, they make & sell them for the older HTV rear driven blowers but they don't for the FDFI.

I have seen many of FDFI superchargers making very good power figures just running serpentine belts,
I have personally never seen one with a Gilmer.

I think Harrop don't make them because there is little practical requirement for them.


Yeah, I am with you also about preferring less noise to keep stuff under the radar with everyone

but as you say, it's "each to their own." :cheers:

[BLACK 346]

Nothing at all like a droning exhaust, poor comparison imo. They sound great and I get a lot of positive comments regarding the sound it makes. Not for everyone I get that, and I had reservations prior to the install. Like the blower, I would never go back to not having it ;)

Edit: Like I said earlier, in a VE you can barely hear it unless you are on the loud pedal, might be different story in the VT-VZ platform. Drove through a random breathtesting station last Sunday just out of Lobethal and the Police did not even give my car a second look.

[whitels1ss]

Looks very well made Rod! :goodjob:

[BLACK 346]

Looks very well made Rod! :goodjob:

Yes, it really is too nice to be hidden Ed. I also have billet blower snout, cost extra but a fair bit stronger I believe.

[HOLDAN]

Are you talking with a Gilmer belt or not Dan?

With one Wonky

[whitels1ss]

Saw this & thought that some might find this an interesting read.

https://vcmstore.com.au/blogs/news/warranty-announcement-magnuson-superchargers-1

[HOLDAN]

I visited Terry at Paramount in Toowoomba this morning to plan my supercharger install,
Stage 1 will be a Harrop 2650 supercharger, custom grind camshaft, injectors, 1 7/8 inch headers and varex 3” exhaust, and E85 flex fuel sensor. Should be good for about 550rwhp.

[Wonky]

I reckon that's ultra conservative Dan! My LS3 with HTV1900 and stock cam made 385rwkw (almost 515rwhp) on a very tough dyno!

Put it this way, before I changed shops it ran 392rwkw on the dyno at the shop I used to use which we always knew was slightly optimistic, but ran 368rwkw very next day at a dyno day at the shop I now use. Not long after that they changed their dyno to a brand new, very expensive 4WD dyno where it ran 348 - 350rwkw, exactly as they predicted it would from their experience with the two dynos. Given a retune, new belts (old ones were rooted), new Camaro ZL1 fuel pump and double valve springs, supercharger blanket etc it was up to 385 with stock cam. My estimate if I took it back to the original place would be (392/349 * 385 =) 432rwkw or over 575rwhp. On most dynos I'd expect a figure somewhere in the middle i.e. 405 - 410 rwkw or 540+rwhp. On pump 98.

That's with a tiny blower and stock cam, but admittedly 6.2L vs 6.0L.

[HOLDAN]

I reckon that's ultra conservative Dan! My LS3 with HTV1900 and stock cam made 385rwkw (almost 515rwhp) on a very tough dyno!

Put it this way, before I changed shops it ran 392rwkw on the dyno at the shop I used to use which we always knew was slightly optimistic, but ran 368rwkw very next day at a dyno day at the shop I now use. Not long after that they changed their dyno to a brand new, very expensive 4WD dyno where it ran 348 - 350rwkw, exactly as they predicted it would from their experience with the two dynos. Given a retune, new belts (old ones were rooted), new Camaro ZL1 fuel pump and double valve springs, supercharger blanket etc it was up to 385 with stock cam. My estimate if I took it back to the original place would be (392/349 * 385 =) 432rwkw or over 575rwhp. On most dynos I'd expect a figure somewhere in the middle i.e. 405 - 410 rwkw or 540+rwhp. On pump 98.

That's with a tiny blower and stock cam, but admittedly 6.2L vs 6.0L.

Hi Gary

Thanks for the info. My setup will be on the VF - LS3. I asked Terry to keep it mild for a while hence the conservative estimate. My car has only done 24,000kms. My plan is to put a mild set up on it initially. Drive it for a while so I get a bit more use out of the drivetrain. Then stage 2 will be heads, rods, pistons, powerglide (with gearvendors ), 9" strange and wavetrac. Looking at around 800rwhp plus

[whitels1ss]

Fark, this has gone a long way from the original plan at the start of this thread of being a mild daily driven streeter to this monster build.........:shock:



When is it booked in to be done Dan?

[BLACK 346]

Hi Gary

Thanks for the info. My setup will be on the VF - LS3. I asked Terry to keep it mild for a while hence the conservative estimate. My car has only done 24,000kms. My plan is to put a mild set up on it initially. Drive it for a while so I get a bit more use out of the drivetrain. Then stage 2 will be heads, rods, pistons, powerglide (with gearvendors ), 9" strange and wavetrac. Looking at around 800rwhp plus

Very smart mate, you can tell you have been down this road before :) Going forged bottom end and powerglide prior to upping the ante is only going to save you heartache in the long run.

[BLACK 346]

Saw this & thought that some might find this an interesting read.

https://vcmstore.com.au/blogs/news/warranty-announcement-magnuson-superchargers-1

Not sure what the phone conversation entails when you ring them, but a little bird tells me that they have installed these on customers cars ;)
Maybe those customers are happy to accept the risk, who knows.

[HOLDAN]

Fark, this has gone a long way from the original plan at the start of this thread of being a mild daily driven streeter to this monster build.........:shock:



When is it booked in to be done Dan?

Yes good point. I was thinking about the NA build we did on my orange ve and there were a number of things I learned from that experience, one of which was "do it once and do it right" in other words I'm trying to avoid having to re-do things later on.

In terms of timing, I am selling a townhouse at the moment. The proceeds of that will go into the car. So as soon as I have sold it, happy days.

[HOLDAN]

Very smart mate, you can tell you have been down this road before :) Going forged bottom end and powerglide prior to upping the ante is only going to save you heartache in the long run.

Thanks - yes my NA experience taught me a lot. And not getting rid of the six speed box was probably the costliest lesson. Although in my defence, I had a ski boat at the time and I wanted to be able to tow that so I stuck with the 6L80E. However, now ski boat sold and I can focus 100% on a strong reliable set up.

[whitels1ss]

Not sure what the phone conversation entails when you ring them, but a little bird tells me that they have installed these on customers cars ;)
Maybe those customers are happy to accept the risk, who knows.

Part of the reason for me posting that link was for people to read the reasons
why they do not recommend the gilmer explaining about the risks of damage from extra harshness & shock in the drive system.


Hey, if I was fitting a new supercharger (for about $13-14K installed) & they told me that if I spent an extra $2,500 on a gilmer that would
totally void the warranty on the supercharger, showing me those reasons, I don't think I would personally be getting one fitted.



At the end of the day, as they say, it is up to the individual to make their own choice.

[HOLDAN]

Part of the reason for me posting that link was for people to read the reasons
why they do not recommend the gilmer explaining about the risks of damage from extra harshness & shock in the drive system.


Hey, if I was fitting a new supercharger (for about $13-14K installed) & they told me that if I spent an extra $2,500 on a gilmer that would
totally void the supercharger, showing me those reasons, I don't think I would personally be getting one fitted.



At the end of the day, as they say, it is up to the individual to make their own choice.

It's good advice and a good description of the mechanical consequences. I don't need a gilmer

[whitels1ss]

Will be looking forward to seeing the build thread Dan. :cheers:

[HOLDAN]

Will be looking forward to seeing the build thread Dan. :cheers:

I'm looking forward to sharing it that's for sure.
Just need the sale of my rental unit to go through quickly and then it will be off up the hill with my VF

[HOLDAN]

Happy news - my townhouse sold over the weekend. Just have to wait 14 days for the contract to go unconditional and then I can head up the hill to have Terry work his magic on the red devil.

Tentatively booked her in for the first week of March.

Regards, Dan

[whitels1ss]

Hey Dan, see this thread, check out post 197 @ a couple after. :cheers:

http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?89912-Ve-1-4-Mile-And-Modification-Comparison(part-2-lets-not-get-this-thread-closed)&p=2175624#post2175624

[HOLDAN]

Thanks for the link - very impressive numbers on the 2300 - looking forward to the odd 10 sec run.

[whitels1ss]

Thanks for the link - very impressive numbers on the 2300 - looking forward to the odd 10 sec run.

The instant torque & power of these blowers is incredible until you have actually driven with one.

You can drive around all day on bypass getting quite good fuel economy & manners, nobody even knows it is there.

Then, as soon as you give it a bit more throttle the entire game changes.



You will love it. :cheers:

[Wonky]

Thanks for the link - very impressive numbers on the 2300 - looking forward to the odd 10 sec run.

A friend of mine with an early VF SSV 6.0 A6 with Maggie 2300 and various matching mods ran an 11.2 at Calder on street tyres (at 20psi or so) when on a dyno day years ago he ran about the same as mine did before I gained around 40rwkw with retune, new fuel pump, vavle springs, thermal blankets and 12L reservoir.

Decent tyres on yours should see 10s Dan.

[HOLDAN]

The instant torque & power of these blowers is incredible until you have actually driven with one.

You can drive around all day on bypass getting quite good fuel economy & manners, nobody even knows it is there.

Then, as soon as you give it a bit more throttle the entire game changes.



You will love it. :cheers:

I am having so much trouble waiting lol. I will order the blower early next week so it's ready when I get my car to Terry.

[HOLDAN]

A friend of mine with an early VF SSV 6.0 A6 with Maggie 2300 and various matching mods ran an 11.2 at Calder on street tyres (at 20psi or so) when on a dyno day years ago he ran about the same as mine did before I gained around 40rwkw with retune, new fuel pump, vavle springs, thermal blankets and 12L reservoir.

Decent tyres on yours should see 10s Dan.

Hi Wonky

Yes 10's should be doable that's for sure.

I don't think I'll take the Stage 1 set up to the track though - afraid I'll break things

[whitels1ss]

I am having so much trouble waiting lol. I will order the blower early next week so it's ready when I get my car to Terry.

Put it on Visa Dan, you will have the money before you have to pay your next statement. :yup:

[white lie]

Put it on Visa Dan, you will have the money before you have to pay your next statement. :yup:Clock up a few rewards or FF points doing it that way too ;)

[HOLDAN]

Clock up a few rewards or FF points doing it that way too ;)

Great thinking - I like it a lot.

Minor problem though - I don't have a visa card unfortunately otherwise I would have done that.

That's why I sold my townhouse - divorced last year and we're having a dispute over settlement - so at the moment, the bank says I can't support a credit card. Once I am able to discharge the mortgage on my townhouse, I'll be sweet. But don't want to wait that long - it settles mid April.

Going to take some super to buy the supercharger up front. Then I'll be fine.

[HOLDAN]

I think I may have let this get out of control lol.

We are now going to get the set up to make 1,000rwhp

[white lie]

I think I may have let this get out of control lol.

We are now going to get the set up to make 1,000rwhpDo it once, do it right? Haha
Sounds like it will be a weapon!

[HOLDAN]

Do it once, do it right? Haha
Sounds like it will be a weapon!

Yes it will be

Floating axels, cast iron block (I think or maybe sleeved) - bored, stroker crank - looking at about 400ci. Will run 15" radials

[whitels1ss]

Yes it will be

Floating axels, cast iron block (I think or maybe sleeved) - bored, stroker crank - looking at about 400ci. Will run 15" radials

Have you worked out what roll cage you will be fitting?

[HOLDAN]

Have you worked out what roll cage you will be fitting?

Very good question - I have been thinking about a roll cage but that is as far as I have progressed. I looked at a ANDRA's website but I have no idea really

[HOLDAN]

Here's an update.

The build will commence tomorrow with the engine. It will look like this:
- Dart cast iron block - 4.125
- Aeroflow's new billet LS heads
- Boostline con rods
- CP bullet forged pistons - dish tops
- custom grind camshaft - blower friendly
- Scat crankshaft - 4.000" stroke
- high volume oil pump
- Cloyes LS race Z chain timing set
- 427ci
- Harrop 2650 blower
- 4 into 1 - 1 7/8 headers
- 3" Xforce exhaust with varex
- E85 flex fuel sensor

Gearbox and Diff will start a bit later.

[HOLDAN]

OK it's time for an update.

The block is at the machinist - could be there up to 3 weeks and then Terry can start building.

Gear vendor is being ordered and the powerglide too.

Diff parts have also been ordered.

I must say the USD is hurting me but not much I can do there - the build must keep progressing

[whitels1ss]

Sounds like a killer build Dan but are you going to need another daily drive?

Personally, I would think that your low mileage VF would be too good a car to turn into possibly a track only race car (as previously mentioned even fitting a cage).

What are you going to do with all the stock running gear? Have you considered buying a cheaper older VE to put all this running gear into instead? :cheers:

[HOLDAN]

Sounds like a killer build Dan but are you going to need another daily drive?

Personally, I would think that your low mileage VF would be too good a car to turn into possibly a track only race car (as previously mentioned even fitting a cage).

What are you going to do with all the stock running gear? Have you considered buying a cheaper older VE to put all this running gear into instead? :cheers:

Very good point - we will try to sell the stock running gear. I will probably buy a second hand hyundai or similar.

We are going to avoid a cage at this stage with some careful negotiating with Willowbank when we run it first - if it runs under 10, we will re-tune it to stay around low 10

[whitels1ss]

Very good point - we will try to sell the stock running gear. I will probably buy a second hand hyundai or similar.

We are going to avoid a cage at this stage with some careful negotiating with Willowbank when we run it first - if it runs under 10, we will re-tune it to stay around low 10

I would expect your build list to run under 10 without much problems.

That is why I would think about buying a cheaper VE shell, stripping & caging it, then you can get it running much quicker. :driving:

I honestly think it would be frustrating having all the goodies in there & then having to hold back so it never get's to deliver it's best stuff.

[HOLDAN]

I would expect your build list to run under 10 without much problems.

That is why I would think about buying a cheaper VE shell, stripping & caging it, then you can get it running much quicker. :driving:

I honestly think it would be frustrating having all the goodies in there & then having to hold back so it never get's to deliver it's best stuff.

Yes I see what you are saying - I don't think I will go cageless for ever. I think I'll just need to get used to handling a 10 sec car and then we can amp it up more.

[HOLDAN]

Yes I see what you are saying - I don't think I will go cageless for ever. I think I'll just need to get used to handling a 10 sec car and then we can amp it up more.

The other more practical issue is that I don't have the space to accommodate a race car and the VF. I don't want to be leaving either on the road - it won't matter for the hyundai.

[HOLDAN]

I'm taking the VF up to Terry's tomorrow. We are concerned that if there is a stage 3 lock down in the near future, I may not be able to take it to Toowoomba. Terry can still work on it under stage 3 lock down conditions.

[whitels1ss]

Great idea, this thing is going to be a beast! :goodjob:

[HOLDAN]

Great idea, this thing is going to be a beast! :goodjob:

Oh dear god - yes it will be - i'm so excited.

[HOLDAN]

I have bought these (can't upload the .png image)

VFN TUF

[HOLDAN]

Update:
The block is safely back from the machinist. Terry will start building the engine next week or so.

[HOLDAN]

We may need a fuel cell as the oem fuel tank may not fit with the 4 link.

[HOLDAN]

The car went onto the hoist this morning to collect all the factory data and then the diff and suspension set up will commence

[HOLDAN]

The rear end came out today. Progressing nicely. And the Gear Vendors overdrive arrived from the states

[BLACK 346]

The rear end came out today. Progressing nicely

Any photos, or are you just getting updated remotely?

[HOLDAN]

Any photos, or are you just getting updated remotely?

Yes I'm getting photos but I can't upload them. And Terry is filming the build.

[white lie]

Yes I'm getting photos but I can't upload them. And Terry is filming the build.If you want to share them, send me a PM and you can email them to me, I'll post them up. If not, that's cool :)

[HOLDAN]

If you want to share them, send me a PM and you can email them to me, I'll post them up. If not, that's cool :)

That's a great idea - thanks for the kind offer

[white lie]

Pics attached

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200408/08ac204256357ec0cbe17ea41b143200.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200408/795a89391dcf42a7bb97b63e3a6bc59e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200408/9a38c481d41e371e2c51eb8011186bce.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200408/ea5881c2ef1827009beccfb9b5dbfd8e.jpg

[whitels1ss]

Good stuff.

Hey the VK which can be seen in the background in one of those pictures


6689



looks pretty serious as well, any details about it? :cheers:

[HOLDAN]

Still working on the rear end set up. Terry had a serious 4-link ready to install then we decided to go with a chrome molly set up designed by Terry.

Also, the street rims arrived - pics to follow

[whitels1ss]

Another quick car with a Harrop 2650 blower,




they are getting amazing power out of some of these engines these days. :yup:





https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fgq7qNWV5Ps&fbclid=IwAR3LuXTg4c1yHsenBKU_VMSN_E4N_GP7IQ8-DjCMjvrKTUDq5ohw03ch4SI&app=desktop

[white lie]

Street wheels and 4 link.

The rear end looks awesome!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200428/4e6b26ddba72808af9189571911ea388.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200428/9e7cc582fa00a6638d3a72acf1a7aa95.jpg

[whitels1ss]

^^^^^^

Wow!

[HOLDAN]

Thanks for posting these for me Chris

[Wonky]

^^^^^^

Wow!

Exactly!!! :thumbsup:

[HOLDAN]

Exactly!!! :thumbsup:

We are not going to use the really heavy version - Terry is fabricating a slightly simpler version and made out of chrome molly

[Xjas]

Wow, that escalated quickly!!!
Looks like its going to be a wicked drag car.
I reckon you'll be looking to do a cage and a shoot before you know it, I can't see a 1000hp, glide, solid axle VF only running 10s for too long.

[HOLDAN]

Wow, that escalated quickly!!!
Looks like its going to be a wicked drag car.
I reckon you'll be looking to do a cage and a shoot before you know it, I can't see a 1000hp, glide, solid axle VF only running 10s for too long.

Lol - yes it did escalate quickly - I admitted that to a few mates after I decided to go for 1,000hp.

I agree - I want to get used to handling a 10sec car for a while and then we'll crank it up that's for sure.

[BLACK 346]

This thing is going to be a beast mate, love it. Are you aiming to keep in road registered, or will it be a dedicated drag car?

[HOLDAN]

This thing is going to be a beast mate, love it. Are you aiming to keep in road registered, or will it be a dedicated drag car?

Thank you and I'm glad you are enjoying it.

I am aiming at keeping it road registered. I initially was thinking I could use it as a daily driver but I have a feeling I will change that thinking once I've driven it around town.

I'll probably buy a cheap small car and drive that around town and use the VF for Willowbank, car meets and the odd cruise.

[HOLDAN]

The race wheels should be arriving today - I bought Weld Alumastar;15x10'' Black/Polished 5X4.75'' BP 5'' Backspace - Black DBL MT

Terry will then be able to complete the four-link set up and diff.

[white lie]

Race wheels. What sort of tyre are you going to run Dan?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200511/4b63ed88992f05e9e25b54c5ccce6812.jpg

It won't let me upload the 4 link photo for some reason, I'll play around with it...

[HOLDAN]

Race wheels and 4 link coming along. What sort of tyre are you going to run Dan?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200511/4b63ed88992f05e9e25b54c5ccce6812.jpg

Hi Chris

I don't know yet - I thought it might be a radial, however, I'm open to suggestions

[white lie]

https://i.imgur.com/5iImMCZ.jpg

[HOLDAN]

Hi Chris

I don't know yet - I thought it might be a radial, however, I'm open to suggestions

I was just speaking with Terry - we might tub her and go 275 Pro

[white lie]

Dan's plates VFN TUF got knocked back for being offensive so he got some shirts printed up instead

https://i.imgur.com/LWcYe64.jpg

[HOLDAN]

Thanks for posting this Chris

[whitels1ss]

How is the engine build progressing Dan?

[HOLDAN]

How is the engine build progressing Dan?

Hi Ed

Slowly at the moment - Terry has been working on getting the new 4-link design and set up right. As you can appreciate, there are a few iterations to be had before we reach the final design. And the process has been confounded by the length of time it has been taking to get certain items laser cut.

And then there's the powerglide - it has been sitting in the same place in the US for over 5 weeks and we don't know why.

So unfortunately, I don't have a lot of progress to report.

[whitels1ss]

Fair enough Dan.

Bet you can't wait! :cheers:

[HOLDAN]

Fair enough Dan.

Bet you can't wait! :cheers:

It's driving me nuts lol

[HOLDAN]

Happy Friday!!

Tomorrow I'm heading up the hill to see Terry and check out the progress. I'll take a few snaps and with the aid of my friend Chris, I'll post them on Sunday

[white lie]

Couple of pics from Dan
Rear end will be more solid than a lot of houses!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200530/e1c59d3d8b83a9c6ab2cbb9868c86eaa.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200530/a9fbfd8593de56c5475c3d0cb6b5a13b.jpg

[HOLDAN]

That's great - thanks very much for posting these for me Chris.

[white lie]

A couple morehttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200602/bd7acb9f1ff33534d30fed0b82e7c30e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200602/b7b9dfa9469041e24f254d13fd180ae0.jpg

[HOLDAN]

Thanks again for posting these for me Chris.

[white lie]

Some more updates (sorry, I've been sitting on these all day, didn't have time until now).https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200622/b5123db4d85e5c61aa742264ab6f20e1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200622/a841fd87748637664c2f21f45541a74c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200622/9368d1e2cce65caef4fbb2946daccd19.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200622/16b7f46c16211b064f1e47dcc196c257.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200622/7bd1f5c654d5c8d77000747c916f6be1.jpg

[HOLDAN]

Thanks for posting these for me Chris.

[HOLDAN]

We will probably remove the spare tyre well, use run-flats and replace the spare tyre well with a fuel tank.

Still undecided about tubbing it to get the 275 tyres under her. A shite load of work will need to be done if I decide to go that way.

[white lie]

Going by how much work has already been done, I would have thought chopping the tubs would have been relatively easy!

[whitels1ss]

Going by how much work has already been done, I would have thought chopping the tubs would have been relatively easy!

Agreed!

This build in Nuckin' Futts! :good job:

[Micks]

IMHO, you'll need 275 rears as a min. on this build.

[white lie]

I'm also a little confused as to why you need a tub to fit 275's unless the offset and geometry of the 4 link is way out. Aren't the stock tyres 275's? You'd be looking at something over 300 wide if you're going to the trouble of tubs.

[Micks]

I'm also a little confused as to why you need a tub to fit 275's unless the offset and geometry of the 4 link is way out. Aren't the stock tyres 275's? You'd be looking at something over 300 wide if you're going to the trouble of tubs.

Yeah stock/staggered rears Redline & HSV are 275's

[HOLDAN]

Going by how much work has already been done, I would have thought chopping the tubs would have been relatively easy!

The mud guards have numerous spot welds on them. So it is not a straight forward operation to move the guards

[HOLDAN]

Yeah stock/staggered rears Redline & HSV are 275's

Good point - I may have the numbers confused.

[HOLDAN]

Good point - I may have the numbers confused.

I checked with Terry - it's the drag tyres that won't fit

[white lie]

Because they're taller? Or the drag wheel offset is quite different to the street wheels?

[whitels1ss]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QsvXX218gbk




Lurve those big tires! :yup:

[HOLDAN]

Because they're taller? Or the drag wheel offset is quite different to the street wheels?

Both - taller and different offset - we'll be using spacers on the drag set up.

[Xjas]

Only reason I could think as to why a 275 drag tyre wont fit would be due to lack of camber change on compression with the 4 link set up, which is good to know if that's the case as I have been contemplating a similar conversion. I currently run a 28 inch tall 275 M&H drag radial on my VE with the guards rolled and on full compression its close to the outer guard.
Way cool project, cant wait to see it finished.

[HOLDAN]

Only reason I could think as to why a 275 drag tyre wont fit would be due to lack of camber change on compression with the 4 link set up, which is good to know if that's the case as I have been contemplating a similar conversion. I currently run a 28 inch tall 275 M&H drag radial on my VE with the guards rolled and on full compression its close to the outer guard.
Way cool project, cant wait to see it finished.

Hi there
Yes fair call.
Your set up sounds good too.
Thank you - I can't wait either.

[HOLDAN]

OK Time for an update.

The gearbox is still "in transit" although we were told it will be delivered this week.

The engine will be built over the next few weeks.

Supercharger will be ordered early this week although it has a 2-4 week lead time. I'm not concerned about that as it is one of the last major components.

Terry is aiming to have everything ready by the time the supercharger arrives.

[whitels1ss]

Sounds like it's all coming together well Dan.

Looking forward to seeing the end result! :cheers:

[HOLDAN]

Sounds like it's all coming together well Dan.

Looking forward to seeing the end result! :cheers:

Hi Ed

Yes slowly but surely - I just want it finished now but the timing is out of our control unfortunately - #### Covid

[HOLDAN]

At long last, the gearbox has arrived safely in Toowoomba.7030

[Micks]

Yes a a good built Glide is the best auto for that power combo! :goodjob:

[HOLDAN]

Yes a a good built Glide is the best auto for that power combo! :goodjob:

I have a gear vendor's over drive for it at well so the highway work will be a bit better

[white lie]

I have a gear vendor's over drive for it at well so the highway work will be a bit betterI'll be keen to hear about your experience with them. Never actually seen anyone use one personally/locally mostly due to their cost but they seem like a good thing.

[HOLDAN]

I'll be keen to hear about your experience with them. Never actually seen anyone use one personally/locally mostly due to their cost but they seem like a good thing.

Hi Chris

I'll certainly let you know what it's like. I'm thinking it will give me a better performance at the track too.

[HOLDAN]

Here is the latest update:

Bought the supercharger last Monday from Harrop (2650). The Eaton internals have to come from the states, so there will be a delay in subsequent assembly and shipping - could be four weeks :(

Bought 1,00cc injectors but may need to go a bit bigger when we actually run the engine. No dramas.

I'm heading up the hill tomorrow so I'll have another update tomorrow.

[Tre-Cool]

ordered a 2650 headunit to upgrade a mates car 4 weeks ago. and got similar email 2 fridays ago.


Here is the latest update:

Bought the supercharger last Monday from Harrop (2650). The Eaton internals have to come from the states, so there will be a delay in subsequent assembly and shipping - could be four weeks :(

Bought 1,00cc injectors but may need to go a bit bigger when we actually run the engine. No dramas.

I'm heading up the hill tomorrow so I'll have another update tomorrow.

[white lie]

Some pics from Danhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200816/45eedefb24e7d7c22ef5354b3a57b82f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200816/5c125358c67c38c73cb3b3bfc7129bd4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200816/56d77a418f14da1337cbd4e7e666e6ee.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200816/ef18502cfa1e626b8f8d8c0aee8e6457.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200816/412dfd9da49d9708eb50a601badca069.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200816/cc4d6f384b1d6cf0b862c5e8b3f99455.jpg

[HOLDAN]

Thanks Chris for posting these pics for me.

[HOLDAN]

Terry will build the bottom end this week.

Waiting for the supercharger.

[whitels1ss]

When I ordered my blower from Harrop they told me the same thing on waiting but mine arrived about 10 days earlier than promised,
a guy I know who is a local agent for Harrop told me that they often tell people it will take longer than they hope it to take.

I hope your's also comes early, I am sure you will be very happy when it's all done.

[HOLDAN]

When I ordered my blower from Harrop they told me the same thing on waiting but mine arrived about 10 days earlier
than promised, a guy I know who is a local agent for Harrop told me that they often tell people it will take longer than they hope it to take.

I hope your's also comes early, I am sure you will be very happy when it's all done.

I hope you are right Ed - but I'm not stressing - I will be happy whenever it arrives (more so if it is earlier though).