Another Holden in the Family :)

[BLACK 346]

Went down this morning and spoke with the lad at Advance Headers. Super friendly and extremely helpful. He advised me to go the 1 5/8 Try-Y's for what is a street car only. He says they will outperform all the other headers for low down torque in a daily driven street car. So that is what I am getting, along with the cats. So, unless someone on here can talk me out of this choice, that is what is going in :)

[whitels1ss]

Good stuff, I am sure you will be very happy with them.

Was Mike not there today?

[BLACK 346]

Good stuff, I am sure you will be very happy with them.

Was Mike not there today?

Not sure, they were super busy and I ended up speaking to a young bloke. Think his name was Ryan from memory. Seemed to know his shit though. He is the one that makes them from what I could gather. He is going to do the cats up for me tomorrow. The headers are already in stock.

[whitels1ss]

Good stuff Rod. :cheers:

[Micks]

Not sure, they were super busy and I ended up speaking to a young bloke. Think his name was Ryan from memory. Seemed to know his shit though. He is the one that makes them from what I could gather. He is going to do the cats up for me tomorrow. The headers are already in stock.

Rod you will be very happy with Advance Headers, I know I am & they sound mint too.

[BLACK 346]

Rod you will be very happy with Advance Headers, I know I am & they sound mint too.

I nearly switched to the 4-1's Mick, but they talked me out of them. I really am after some decent sound, don't care about the power too much on this car. If I want to scare the shit out of myself I will jump in the Calais and give it half throttle in 3rd gear :)

[BLACK 346]

Anyone have any experience with these? Seems extremely cheap for a T/B by itself, but this comes with sensors as well. Tempted to buy and try, if it is rubbish then bin it.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/173341787218?_trksid=p2062857.m570.l5999&_trkparms=gh1g%3DI173341787218.N36.S1.typeWATCH_IT EM_ENDING_SOON.R1.TR4

[whitels1ss]

Don't waste your money Rod. :slap:

The standard throttle body is absolutely fine for a stock LS1.

Also, they can be a pita to tune.

Plenty of people with quite big cams & even head work using the stock throttle body.

[BLACK 346]

I have never had an aftermarket cat back on a V8 that is as quiet as this Manta. Don't get me wrong, it is bliss inside the cabin, no drone at all. It does however sound very much like my old VT2 prior to it being modified :( I don't want another crazy loud car that shakes the neighbors windows like the Calais, but I am really hoping that the headers and cats will give it a bit more note.

[BLACK 346]

Don't waste your money Rod. :slap:

The standard throttle body is absolutely fine for a stock LS1.

Also, they can be a pita to tune.

Plenty of people with quite big cams & even head work using the stock throttle body.

Thanks Ed, I new it would be too good to be true :)

[whitels1ss]

I have never had an aftermarket cat back on a V8 that is as quiet as this Manta.
Don't get me wrong, it is bliss inside the cabin, no drone at all.
It does however sound very much like my old VT2 prior to it being modified :( I don't want another crazy loud car that shakes the neighbors windows like the Calais, but I am really hoping that the headers and cats will give it a bit more note.

I think it will work well for you & I reckon you will notice a little extra power without even a tune.

Have you picked it all up yet?

[BLACK 346]

I think it will work well for you & I reckon you will notice a little extra power without even a tune.

Have you picked it all up yet?

Not yet Ed, he is going to ring me when he has made up the cats. He said he might even come in on the weekend and do them. I told him no rush as the car does not go in until the 12th for the engine work.

[VL Executive]

I have never had an aftermarket cat back on a V8 that is as quiet as this Manta. Don't get me wrong, it is bliss inside the cabin, no drone at all. It does however sound very much like my old VT2 prior to it being modified :( I don't want another crazy loud car that shakes the neighbors windows like the Calais, but I am really hoping that the headers and cats will give it a bit more note.

What sort of Manta system is it? I have centre mufflers and rear hotdogs on my VY SS Ute, and sounds great. Not quiet but not over the top either. But is a bit droney at the highway limit of 100 km/h

I did get rear mufflers to change over to when the drone gets too much on highway runs. And its too quiet then, almost stock sound

[BLACK 346]

What sort of Manta system is it? I have centre mufflers and rear hotdogs on my VY SS Ute, and sounds great. Not quiet but not over the top either. But is a bit droney at the highway limit of 100 km/h

I did get rear mufflers to change over to when the drone gets too much on highway runs. And its too quiet then, almost stock sound

Has centre mufflers and rear resonators. No drone at all which I am really liking. Hopefully the headers and cats will give it a bit more V8 note.

[SASLS1]

I have never had an aftermarket cat back on a V8 that is as quiet as this Manta. Don't get me wrong, it is bliss inside the cabin, no drone at all. It does however sound very much like my old VT2 prior to it being modified :( I don't want another crazy loud car that shakes the neighbors windows like the Calais, but I am really hoping that the headers and cats will give it a bit more note.


The Manta is available in 3 different version of sound level options... Quiet, Medium and Loud.


Quiet...

https://www.mpiautomotive.com/product/19728-vu-vy-vz-v8-ute-2-5in-l-r-catback-muffler-muffler (https://www.mpiautomotive.com/product/19728-vu-vy-vz-v8-ute-2-5in-l-r-catback-muffler-muffler)


https://d1mv2b9v99cq0i.cloudfront.net/eyJidWNrZXQiOiJ3ZWItbmluamEtaW1hZ2VzIiwia2V5IjoibX BpYXV0b1wvaW1hZ2VzXC9wcm9kaW1nXC8xOTcyOF8xLmpwZyIs ImVkaXRzIjp7InJlc2l6ZSI6eyJ3aWR0aCI6NDgwLCJoZWlnaH QiOjQ4MCwiZml0IjoiaW5zaWRlIiwid2l0aG91dEVubGFyZ2Vt ZW50Ijp0cnVlfX0sInZlcnNpb24iOiJhNTdlOTVlOGQyMzdmOW VhNzUwZDQyMjE2OWYyZjA1MjcxNjI2YTM4In0=


Medium...

https://www.mpiautomotive.com/product/19729-vu-vy-vz-v8-ute-2-5in-l-r-catback-hotdog-muffler (https://www.mpiautomotive.com/product/19729-vu-vy-vz-v8-ute-2-5in-l-r-catback-hotdog-muffler)

https://d1mv2b9v99cq0i.cloudfront.net/eyJidWNrZXQiOiJ3ZWItbmluamEtaW1hZ2VzIiwia2V5IjoibX BpYXV0b1wvaW1hZ2VzXC9wcm9kaW1nXC8xOTcyOV8xLmpwZyIs ImVkaXRzIjp7InJlc2l6ZSI6eyJ3aWR0aCI6NDgwLCJoZWlnaH QiOjQ4MCwiZml0IjoiaW5zaWRlIiwid2l0aG91dEVubGFyZ2Vt ZW50Ijp0cnVlfX0sInZlcnNpb24iOiI0Yjc3MzVmMTY5Mzk2ZD UxNmNjZTFiZjZlZTEyNmMyZmVjNGU5MjNmIn0=


Loud...

https://www.mpiautomotive.com/product/19730-vu-vy-vz-v8-ute-2-5in-l-r-catback-muffler-tailpipe (https://www.mpiautomotive.com/product/19730-vu-vy-vz-v8-ute-2-5in-l-r-catback-muffler-tailpipe)

https://d1mv2b9v99cq0i.cloudfront.net/eyJidWNrZXQiOiJ3ZWItbmluamEtaW1hZ2VzIiwia2V5IjoibX BpYXV0b1wvaW1hZ2VzXC9wcm9kaW1nXC8xOTczMF8xLmpwZyIs ImVkaXRzIjp7InJlc2l6ZSI6eyJ3aWR0aCI6NDgwLCJoZWlnaH QiOjQ4MCwiZml0IjoiaW5zaWRlIiwid2l0aG91dEVubGFyZ2Vt ZW50Ijp0cnVlfX0sInZlcnNpb24iOiJiNTQzZDQ2NTk0N2E2Mz ZjNTQ1ZmU0YmFkMGFiNzEyMjM5ZWNiOWJmIn0=




Looking at the pics of your new Manta exhaust, you have clearly purchased the Quiet version.


http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7206&stc=1&d=1600299648 http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7207&stc=1&d=1600299657

[BLACK 346]

The Manta is available in 3 different version of sound level options... Quiet, Medium and Loud.


Quiet...

https://www.mpiautomotive.com/product/19728-vu-vy-vz-v8-ute-2-5in-l-r-catback-muffler-muffler (https://www.mpiautomotive.com/product/19728-vu-vy-vz-v8-ute-2-5in-l-r-catback-muffler-muffler)


https://d1mv2b9v99cq0i.cloudfront.net/eyJidWNrZXQiOiJ3ZWItbmluamEtaW1hZ2VzIiwia2V5IjoibX BpYXV0b1wvaW1hZ2VzXC9wcm9kaW1nXC8xOTcyOF8xLmpwZyIs ImVkaXRzIjp7InJlc2l6ZSI6eyJ3aWR0aCI6NDgwLCJoZWlnaH QiOjQ4MCwiZml0IjoiaW5zaWRlIiwid2l0aG91dEVubGFyZ2Vt ZW50Ijp0cnVlfX0sInZlcnNpb24iOiJhNTdlOTVlOGQyMzdmOW VhNzUwZDQyMjE2OWYyZjA1MjcxNjI2YTM4In0=


Medium...

https://www.mpiautomotive.com/product/19729-vu-vy-vz-v8-ute-2-5in-l-r-catback-hotdog-muffler (https://www.mpiautomotive.com/product/19729-vu-vy-vz-v8-ute-2-5in-l-r-catback-hotdog-muffler)

https://d1mv2b9v99cq0i.cloudfront.net/eyJidWNrZXQiOiJ3ZWItbmluamEtaW1hZ2VzIiwia2V5IjoibX BpYXV0b1wvaW1hZ2VzXC9wcm9kaW1nXC8xOTcyOV8xLmpwZyIs ImVkaXRzIjp7InJlc2l6ZSI6eyJ3aWR0aCI6NDgwLCJoZWlnaH QiOjQ4MCwiZml0IjoiaW5zaWRlIiwid2l0aG91dEVubGFyZ2Vt ZW50Ijp0cnVlfX0sInZlcnNpb24iOiI0Yjc3MzVmMTY5Mzk2ZD UxNmNjZTFiZjZlZTEyNmMyZmVjNGU5MjNmIn0=


Loud...

https://www.mpiautomotive.com/product/19730-vu-vy-vz-v8-ute-2-5in-l-r-catback-muffler-tailpipe (https://www.mpiautomotive.com/product/19730-vu-vy-vz-v8-ute-2-5in-l-r-catback-muffler-tailpipe)

https://d1mv2b9v99cq0i.cloudfront.net/eyJidWNrZXQiOiJ3ZWItbmluamEtaW1hZ2VzIiwia2V5IjoibX BpYXV0b1wvaW1hZ2VzXC9wcm9kaW1nXC8xOTczMF8xLmpwZyIs ImVkaXRzIjp7InJlc2l6ZSI6eyJ3aWR0aCI6NDgwLCJoZWlnaH QiOjQ4MCwiZml0IjoiaW5zaWRlIiwid2l0aG91dEVubGFyZ2Vt ZW50Ijp0cnVlfX0sInZlcnNpb24iOiJiNTQzZDQ2NTk0N2E2Mz ZjNTQ1ZmU0YmFkMGFiNzEyMjM5ZWNiOWJmIn0=




Looking at the pics of your new Manta exhaust, you have clearly purchased the Quiet version.


http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7206&stc=1&d=1600299648 http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7207&stc=1&d=1600299657

Yes, as soon as I unpacked it I figured it was the quiet system, just did not realise how quiet it would be. Still, very happy with the lack of drone and with the headers and cats going in I am sure I will be happy with it.

[A^K^T]

Have been planning on getting one of their quiet systems for the VX , just need so sort a few things

[BLACK 346]

Picked these up today. Once again, these guys are super easy to deal with and just really great customer service. Everything is included in the price as well, heat shield, all the gaskets and bolts etc. Ended up being $300 cheaper than I expected as well.

[whitels1ss]

You gotta be happy with that! :thumbsup:

[Micks]

Picked these up today. Once again, these guys are super easy to deal with and just really great customer service. Everything is included in the price as well, heat shield, all the gaskets and bolts etc. Ended up being $300 cheaper than I expected as well.

Yes "shields" thanks for reminding me, the bigger pipes run very close to the PS boots.

[BLACK 346]

Ok, more old car issues. Just went to vacuum the passenger footwell and came out with a Dyson full of water. We have had some pretty heavy rain here and some of it has found it's way into the cabin unfortunately. Can anyone advise of the obvious places to check? Have done a search on google and the forum but only seem to come up with VE firewall leaks. I know the aircon drain can be an issue when blocked, my old man had that on his VG ute back in the day.

[BLACK 346]

Yes "shields" thanks for reminding me, the bigger pipes run very close to the PS boots.

Yeah, I remember finding out the hard way back in the day with headers on the VT2 SS Mick. Great that these guys put all this in the package and save you chasing stuff up (provided you know/remember to do it prior to frying the steering boots).

[BLACK 346]

I keep reading about issues with the rear main seal if not put in properly? Is there some sort of aligning tool or way to ensure this is done properly? I see that you can buy the seal separately or the entire rear main kit, is buying the entire plate kit a better way to go, or just need to make sure the mechanic knows what they are doing? Not keen to spend 2k and end up with the same leaky motor.

https://www.maceengineering.com.au/GENUINE-GM-REAR-MAIN-OIL-SEAL-PLATE-KIT-TO-SUIT-HOLDEN-LS1-L76-L77-L98-LS3-57L-60L-62L-V8

[whitels1ss]

Might be worth asking them if they have done any before
from what I have heard some people have had problems.

My lad has done quite a few,
I just asked him & he reckons that you don't have much problems
if they replace the entire plate as you pictured but they are more likely to have problems
if they just try & replace the seal. :cheers:

[BLACK 346]

Might be worth asking them if they have done any before
from what I have heard some people have had problems.

My lad has done quite a few,
I just asked him & he reckons that you don't have much problems
if they replace the entire plate as you pictured but they are more likely to have problems
if they just try & replace the seal. :cheers:

Thanks Ed, I think I will grab the one linked. It has been delayed until the 19th now as they are so busy, so have time to order it.

[whitels1ss]

Ok, more old car issues. Just went to vacuum the passenger footwell and came out with a Dyson full of water. We have had some pretty heavy rain here and some of it has found it's way into the cabin unfortunately. Can anyone advise of the obvious places to check? Have done a search on google and the forum but only seem to come up with VE firewall leaks. I know the aircon drain can be an issue when blocked, my old man had that on his VG ute back in the day.

Windscreen seal perhaps?

[Micks]

I keep reading about issues with the rear main seal if not put in properly? Is there some sort of aligning tool or way to ensure this is done properly? I see that you can buy the seal separately or the entire rear main kit, is buying the entire plate kit a better way to go, or just need to make sure the mechanic knows what they are doing? Not keen to spend 2k and end up with the same leaky motor.

https://www.maceengineering.com.au/GENUINE-GM-REAR-MAIN-OIL-SEAL-PLATE-KIT-TO-SUIT-HOLDEN-LS1-L76-L77-L98-LS3-57L-60L-62L-V8

Rod this post here http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?171464-VZ-SS-Rear-Main-Leak&highlight=vz+rear+main+leak is your friend ;)

[BLACK 346]

Rod this post here http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?171464-VZ-SS-Rear-Main-Leak&highlight=vz+rear+main+leak is your friend ;)

Thanks Mick. Is this what I need to replace the plastic barbell? Only one I can find in Australia.

https://www.early-holdens.com/AF64-2125

[Micks]

Thanks Mick. Is this what I need to replace the plastic barbell? Only one I can find in Australia.

https://www.early-holdens.com/AF64-2125

Yes I bought similar, the extra plugs with the kit you won't use but I reckon the barbell is essential, especially if yours is original oem.

[BLACK 346]

Yes I bought similar, the extra plugs with the kit you won't use but I reckon the barbell is essential, especially if yours is original oem.

Ordered it this morning, thanks for the advice Mick, would not even have occurred to me to order one of these. Also got OEM Sump gasket and Oil pickup o-ring from Holden yesterday, $70 for both. Gave the rear main a miss from Holden though, they wanted nearly $370, got the same OEM item from Mace Engineering for $135 delivered. Can't wait to get it all done, bloody hate cars that leak oil.

Also ordered some plates for her, GM V8, they take 4 weeks to make here in SA, which is probably super fast for Adelaide lol. The Calais has V8 GMH and I wanted GMH V8 but someone beat me to it unfortunately.

[SASLS1]

Ordered it this morning, thanks for the advice Mick, would not even have occurred to me to order one of these. Also got OEM Sump gasket and Oil pickup o-ring from Holden yesterday, $70 for both. Gave the rear main a miss from Holden though, they wanted nearly $370, got the same OEM item from Mace Engineering for $135 delivered. Can't wait to get it all done, bloody hate cars that leak oil.

Also ordered some plates for her, GM V8, they take 4 weeks to make here in SA, which is probably super fast for Adelaide lol. The Calais has V8 GMH and I wanted GMH V8 but someone beat me to it unfortunately.


You can order the rear main seal by itself without the whole plate assembly from Holden, I've done so a couple of times in the past around $40.

Replacing the rear plate is an unnecessary expense, when you can easliy reuse the original one.

There are 3 small cut aways in the rear plate, which enable you to pry the rear seal out carefully without removing the rear plate assembly, which you can see in my pic below.

I did this the first time I replaced the seal. Worked perfectly no leaks.

You'll have zero alignment issues this way, as the rear plate position is not disturbed.

https://i.imgur.com/ACA8h8k.jpg


The new OEM seal is shallower in depth (about 6 mm, new GM design) than the original GM Seal (about 12mm from memory).

When I replaced the seal the first time, I drove the new seal all the way home into the seat.

But in doing so, I couldn't use the 3 cut a ways next time to pry the seal out, as the new seal drove deeper into the seat and the 3 cutaways don't go deeper enough for the new shallower seal.

I shouldn't of drove the new seal all the way in, to still be able to use the 3 cut a ways.


So the 2nd time I replaced the seal (100,000 kms later for another clutch), I had no choice, and had to remove the rear plate to remove the seal safely without scratching the crank seal land.

Once the plate was removed, I could easily tap the old seal out my original plate in seconds, and reuse the rear plate after giving it a clean.

The Bolt holes in the rear plate are over sized to the bolts, which allows the rear plate to float around heaps in all directions when all the bolts are started and loose.

The hole in the plate for the crank, has to be perfectly centered to the crankshaft, so the seal will be centered and not loaded up to one side which will cause it to leak.

I installed the new seal in the original plate first, RTV'd the lower corners of the sump gasket and lower edge of rear plate aswell (for my extra OCD measure) then installed the plate with a new rear plate gasket, started all the bolts loosely and could see the seal was squished at the bottom by the lower sump gasket (not correct).

After much eyeballing and having to loosely tighten the 2 long sump bolts to draw the seal to center ( vertically ), and align the plate horizontal, (by pushing the plate side to side) I could see the seal was then correctly centered and not loaded up anyway.

I then torqued up all the 12 aft bolts, then torqued the 2 long sump bolts last.

I had a little residual oil leak on first start, but it cleared up dry in a few minutes once the new seal bedded in which GM says to install dry.

It's been 100% no leaks from the new seal since.


Plate removed and plate surfaces cleaned.

https://i.imgur.com/DK3fc34.jpg

New Seal installed with original plate.

https://i.imgur.com/hEv9zH0.jpg

That's my 2 cents, and the way I tackled it.

[BLACK 346]

You can order the rear main seal by itself without the whole plate assembly from Holden, I've done so a couple of times in the past around $40.

Replacing the rear plate is an unnecessary expense, when you can easliy reuse the original one.

There are 3 small cut aways in the rear plate, which enable you to pry the rear seal out carefully without removing the rear plate assembly, which you can see in my pic below.

I did this the first time I replaced the seal. Worked perfectly no leaks.

You'll have zero alignment issues this way, as the rear plate position is not disturbed.

https://i.imgur.com/ACA8h8k.jpg


The new OEM seal is shallower in depth (about 6 mm, new GM design) than the original GM Seal (about 12mm from memory).

When I replaced the seal the first time, I drove the new seal all the way home into the seat.

But in doing so, I couldn't use the 3 cut a ways next time to pry the seal out, as the new seal drove deeper into the seat and the 3 cutaways don't go deeper enough for the new shallower seal.

I shouldn't of drove the new seal all the way in, to still be able to use the 3 cut a ways.


So the 2nd time I replaced the seal (100,000 kms later for another clutch), I had no choice, and had to remove the rear plate to remove the seal safely without scratching the crank seal land.

Once the plate was removed, I could easily tap the old seal out my original plate in seconds, and reuse the rear plate after giving it a clean.

The Bolt holes in the rear plate are over sized to the bolts, which allows the rear plate to float around heaps in all directions when all the bolts are started and loose.

The hole in the plate for the crank, has to be perfectly centered to the crankshaft, so the seal will be centered and not loaded up to one side which will cause it to leak.

I installed the new seal in the original plate first, RTV'd the lower corners of the sump gasket and lower edge of rear plate aswell (for my extra OCD measure) then installed the plate with a new rear plate gasket, started all the bolts loosely and could see the seal was squished at the bottom by the lower sump gasket (not correct).

After much eyeballing and having to loosely tighten the 2 long sump bolts to draw the seal to center ( vertically ), and align the plate horizontal, (by pushing the plate side to side) I could see the seal was then correctly centered and not loaded up anyway.

I then torqued up all the 12 aft bolts, then torqued the 2 long sump bolts last.

I had a little residual oil leak on first start, but it cleared up dry in a few minutes once the new seal bedded in which GM says to install dry.

It's been 100% no leaks from the new seal since.


Plate removed and plate surfaces cleaned.

https://i.imgur.com/DK3fc34.jpg

New Seal installed with original plate.

https://i.imgur.com/hEv9zH0.jpg

That's my 2 cents, and the way I tackled it.

Great post, thanks mate. Now I understand where the alignment issue comes into it. I thought buying the plate and seal together would negate this, but apparently not.

[VL Executive]

The Manta is available in 3 different version of sound level options... Quiet, Medium and Loud.


Quiet...

https://www.mpiautomotive.com/product/19728-vu-vy-vz-v8-ute-2-5in-l-r-catback-muffler-muffler (https://www.mpiautomotive.com/product/19728-vu-vy-vz-v8-ute-2-5in-l-r-catback-muffler-muffler)


https://d1mv2b9v99cq0i.cloudfront.net/eyJidWNrZXQiOiJ3ZWItbmluamEtaW1hZ2VzIiwia2V5IjoibX BpYXV0b1wvaW1hZ2VzXC9wcm9kaW1nXC8xOTcyOF8xLmpwZyIs ImVkaXRzIjp7InJlc2l6ZSI6eyJ3aWR0aCI6NDgwLCJoZWlnaH QiOjQ4MCwiZml0IjoiaW5zaWRlIiwid2l0aG91dEVubGFyZ2Vt ZW50Ijp0cnVlfX0sInZlcnNpb24iOiJhNTdlOTVlOGQyMzdmOW VhNzUwZDQyMjE2OWYyZjA1MjcxNjI2YTM4In0=


Medium...

https://www.mpiautomotive.com/product/19729-vu-vy-vz-v8-ute-2-5in-l-r-catback-hotdog-muffler (https://www.mpiautomotive.com/product/19729-vu-vy-vz-v8-ute-2-5in-l-r-catback-hotdog-muffler)

https://d1mv2b9v99cq0i.cloudfront.net/eyJidWNrZXQiOiJ3ZWItbmluamEtaW1hZ2VzIiwia2V5IjoibX BpYXV0b1wvaW1hZ2VzXC9wcm9kaW1nXC8xOTcyOV8xLmpwZyIs ImVkaXRzIjp7InJlc2l6ZSI6eyJ3aWR0aCI6NDgwLCJoZWlnaH QiOjQ4MCwiZml0IjoiaW5zaWRlIiwid2l0aG91dEVubGFyZ2Vt ZW50Ijp0cnVlfX0sInZlcnNpb24iOiI0Yjc3MzVmMTY5Mzk2ZD UxNmNjZTFiZjZlZTEyNmMyZmVjNGU5MjNmIn0=


Loud...

https://www.mpiautomotive.com/product/19730-vu-vy-vz-v8-ute-2-5in-l-r-catback-muffler-tailpipe (https://www.mpiautomotive.com/product/19730-vu-vy-vz-v8-ute-2-5in-l-r-catback-muffler-tailpipe)

https://d1mv2b9v99cq0i.cloudfront.net/eyJidWNrZXQiOiJ3ZWItbmluamEtaW1hZ2VzIiwia2V5IjoibX BpYXV0b1wvaW1hZ2VzXC9wcm9kaW1nXC8xOTczMF8xLmpwZyIs ImVkaXRzIjp7InJlc2l6ZSI6eyJ3aWR0aCI6NDgwLCJoZWlnaH QiOjQ4MCwiZml0IjoiaW5zaWRlIiwid2l0aG91dEVubGFyZ2Vt ZW50Ijp0cnVlfX0sInZlcnNpb24iOiJiNTQzZDQ2NTk0N2E2Mz ZjNTQ1ZmU0YmFkMGFiNzEyMjM5ZWNiOWJmIn0=




Looking at the pics of your new Manta exhaust, you have clearly purchased the Quiet version.


http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7206&stc=1&d=1600299648 http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7207&stc=1&d=1600299657

My system is the same as the loud system, But instead of just the straight through rear tailpipes. Mine have Hotdogs welded into them. Its a nice sounding system, bar the droning on the highway. But a small price to pay I guess.

[Micks]

Great post, thanks mate. Now I understand where the alignment issue comes into it. I thought buying the plate and seal together would negate this, but apparently not.

Doing it that way with seal already fitted to plate is hit & miss. Also contrary to how GM recommends it be done. Alignment tool is the best way & avoids any misalignment issues.. I'm not a fan of doing this job more than once.

[BLACK 346]

One more stupid question, do you still use an alignment tool if replacing the plate and seal as one, or is it only used when doing just the seal?

[Micks]

One more stupid question, do you still use an alignment tool if replacing the plate and seal as one, or is it only used when doing just the seal?

Rod no you don't but as explained, doing it that way is hit & miss. I know it can be done though not recommended. Too much work to pull the box again only to do it all again should it leak.
When I did it bought a plate with the seal, removed the seal & binned it, installed alignment tool torqued bolts as per procedure. Good luck with it.

[BLACK 346]

Engine is out. A few more things are getting replaced also whilst it is out. New Pulleys and belts, new alternator, new power steering pump (was leaking onto alternator), new radiator and new engine mounts.

[whitels1ss]

Wanna buy a stallie? :hide:

[BLACK 346]

Wanna buy a stallie? :hide:

Haha, I reckon I have spent enough on it this week Ed :)

[whitels1ss]

Haha, I reckon I have spent enough on it this week Ed :)

I might have one going cheap. :lol:

[BLACK 346]

I might have one going cheap. :lol:

I figured that is what you were alluding too Ed :)

[whitels1ss]

I actually have an almost new Dominator Eliminator lock up stallie just sitting in my shed (I doubt it has even done 1,500kms)
but I was really only messing around,

I reckon if I sold it my son would be very unhappy. :lol:

I was more thinking along the lines of if you had plans for one in the near future now would save money in fitting one.

[whitels1ss]

Got it back yet Rod?

[BLACK 346]

Got it back yet Rod?

Funny you should ask, they were about to ring me and tell me to come and pick up my 100 percent leak free ute when Geoff noticed that the timing cover was weeping. He won't be able to get a seal until early next week so the wait continues :)

[whitels1ss]

Damn!

Don't you just hate that! :doh:

[BLACK 346]

Damn!

Don't you just hate that! :doh:

Yep, I could tell by the tone of his voice that it was not going to be good news. Was pleased that it was something simple though. He reckon's it was their fault and that it occurred when putting the harmonic balancer back on.

[BLACK 346]

Finally got her back, and leak free. The engine looks amazing, they did a great job of cleaning everything whilst it was out. They also put a new heater tap in whilst it was in there, something that I had in the back of my mind after having one fail on the old VT2 SS. They also did the cam sensor whilst it was easy to access. The old alternator looked like someone had submerged it in power steering fluid and glad that it got replaced and not just cleaned up and take a punt.

[whitels1ss]

Good stuff!

How different is it to drive Rod?

[BLACK 346]

Good stuff!

How different is it to drive Rod?

It makes a bit more noise Ed, other than that I cannot really tell any difference. Still feels like a slug down low, but in it's defence I have been driving the Calais to work most days since it went in.

[BLACK 346]

A bit of an odd question. I was just checking all the headlight globes and found that the car has not parker lights. I have never seen a car without them. The spot for them it there but blanked off. I cannot even see the wiring or socket for the wedge globe when I pull the rear cover off the headlight. Is this illegal? I assume they are aftermarket units.

[whitels1ss]

It is definitely illegal to not have working parkers Rod.

You could get a yellow sticker for it.

[BLACK 346]

Ok, another niggling issue. I have been caught out twice now with the headlights not turning off when you park the car and open the door. They also don't shut off when the car is locked. It started off just every now and then and is now permanent. I have removed both door jam switches and cleaned them as best as I can with no change. I did notice that the drivers one was randomly triggering what sounded like a relay somewhere under the dash, it is not even doing that now. The passenger one does nothing. Is it possible that the switches are stuffed, or just that dirty inside that they need replacing? Cheap to replace, just don't want to waste my time if the issue is elsewhere. From what I have read, these switches control the headlights and the interior dome light.

[whitels1ss]

I think you will find that the headlamps problem will be a sticking low beam relay.

The relay is located in the fuse box under the bonnet next to the battery.

The low beam relay gets worn out (with contacts getting burnt & sticking or holding on) with heaps of use over the years.

(The lights stay on after you switch them off.)

Easy instant fix is swap it with the horn relay (which is hardly ever active) they are exactly the same.

See pictures...

7388

7389


I have done this loads of times with Commodores. :cheers:

[whitels1ss]

I reckon the interior light might be a sticking "interior illum" relay as well which is located in the fuse box under the steering wheel.

Try swapping it with another that might not get used as much.

Here is a diagram of the fuse box in case your one is missing.

7390

[BLACK 346]

I reckon the interior light might be a sticking "interior illum" relay as well which is located in the fuse box under the steering wheel.

Try swapping it with another that might not get used as much.

Here is a diagram of the fuse box in case your one is missing.

7390

Thanks Ed, will have a look at that also. In the meantime, since cleaning the door switches they are suddenly turning off again as they should. Might just be coincidence, but I reckon I will replace both door jam switches as well, they are only $10 from Holden.

[whitels1ss]

How did you go with your parkers?

[BLACK 346]

How did you go with your parkers?

It simply does not have them from what I can see Ed. Not sure why, but the hole that they would sit in is blanked off. On the bright side, the Calais got some nice LED parker globes that I bought for the ute lol.

[whitels1ss]

It simply does not have them from what I can see Ed.
Not sure why, but the hole that they would sit in is blanked off.

On the bright side, the Calais got some nice LED parker globes that I bought for the ute lol.

Can you remove whatever the holes are blanked off with & just put some in there or will it be a harder fix?

[BLACK 346]

Can you remove whatever the holes are blanked off with & just put some in there or will it be a harder fix?

When I get time I will have a better look, I think I would need to remove the lights and maybe drill it out which would probably risk shattering the whole headlight internals. Probably easier to just replace them. Then there is the wiring that would need to be added in, as it looks like that has been totally removed. I assume this was all done when the GTO front was put on.

Edit: First photo is VU with parker slots blanked out, second is VE with now with LED bulbs. Was going to do both cars in full LED eventually anyway.

[whitels1ss]

I would drill them out, they are only plastic, can't imagine them shattering Rod & if by chance they did you could replace them.

If you go to the wreckers & have a look you might find some lights and wiring sets.

I reckon they would most likely be plug in harness attachments
or you might even find that yours are tucked out of the way in behind the bar somewhere.

[BLACK 346]

I would drill them out, they are only plastic, can't imagine them shattering Rod & if by chance they did you could replace them.

If you go to the wreckers & have a look you might find some lights and wiring sets.

I reckon they would most likely be plug in harness attachments
or you might even find that yours are tucked out of the way in behind the bar somewhere.

Will have a dig around under the bonnet and see what I can find :)

[whitels1ss]

Could not see pictures before but those blanking things for the parkers look as though they might even just pull out?

[BLACK 346]

Have been monitoring my economy since buying the ute and as the work has been carried out. Has not changed a bit since I bought it, averaging about 15-16 l/100 around town. Not much better than my blown VE. I am not complaining as it is a V8 and happy to pay the price. I do not remember my VT2 being this thirsty though, even with Heads and Cam. Wondering if it would be worthwhile throwing a new pair of 02 sensors in and see if it improves? Can get a pair of Bosch for about $130. No point wasting the money though if this is par for the course for an untuned LS1.

[whitels1ss]

I would expect it to get around 13 as long as you don't drive it too hard.

I had a bog stock series 1 WH Caprice a few years ago that used to do around 12 flat.

[Micks]

Rod my fat Lady Crewie at times does 19-21L/100 around town cam+tune. Highway is a low as 8L/100 though.

[BLACK 346]

Rod my fat Lady Crewie at times does 19-21L/100 around town cam+tune. Highway is a low as 8L/100 though.

What plug gap do you run in the Crewie Mick? I did the plugs on the ute a while back and set the plugs to 1.5 same as what I do with the Calais. Everything I read on the net says around 1.1, have I gone too big on what is essentially a stocker (except for full exhaust)? Just trying to eliminate possible causes for the fuel consumption. I will give the MAF a good clean with contact cleaner also prior rushing into changing 02 sensors. My latest test at the bowser returned 17l/100, and that was nursing it (ie not going over 2k most of the time).

[Micks]

What plug gap do you run in the Crewie Mick? I did the plugs on the ute a while back and set the plugs to 1.5 same as what I do with the Calais. Everything I read on the net says around 1.1, have I gone too big on what is essentially a stocker (except for full exhaust)? Just trying to eliminate possible causes for the fuel consumption. I will give the MAF a good clean with contact cleaner also prior rushing into changing 02 sensors. My latest test at the bowser returned 17l/100, and that was nursing it (ie not going over 2k most of the time).

Rod I previously had Bosch plugs, but recently fitted the OEM Iridium plugs & yes I set them at 1.5mm. The high energy ignition coils tend to open your plug gaps over time, so a good idea to pull em out occasionally & re gap them.

[whitels1ss]

I use NGK TR6 with a 1.5 gap, my last set were in there for 12 years without any problems.































But I would doubt it even did 40,000kms in that time :lmao:

[whitels1ss]

Hey Rod, how's it going?


Any updates? :cheers:

[BLACK 346]

Going great Ed but no significant updates. It is nice to have no oil leaks though, that is for sure. I have taken to driving it everywhere with the power button activated also, so much nicer to drive compared to having it off. I am going to do some fuel consumption testing to see if it uses much more fuel with it on. What is the power button supposed to do in these 4 speeds? Does it just change the shift points? It actually feels like a totally different car when you put it on, night and day.

[VXSS346]

Going great Ed but no significant updates. It is nice to have no oil leaks though, that is for sure. I have taken to driving it everywhere with the power button activated also, so much nicer to drive compared to having it off. I am going to do some fuel consumption testing to see if it uses much more fuel with it on. What is the power button supposed to do in these 4 speeds? Does it just change the shift points? It actually feels like a totally different car when you put it on, night and day.

Just shift points, upshift and downshift speeds. I think it also alters the firmness of the shifts. (line pressure?)

I guess we're all different, I never use pwr, Just seems to free rev too much and become breathless on light throttle openings. I just prefer the earlier upshifts do I can drive it off the torque.

[BLACK 346]

Just shift points, upshift and downshift speeds. I think it also alters the firmness of the shifts. (line pressure?)

I guess we're all different, I never use pwr, Just seems to free rev too much and become breathless on light throttle openings. I just prefer the earlier upshifts do I can drive it off the torque.

Ok, thanks for the reply. Mine feels like it has no throttle response when power mode is off, like it is just constantly laboring in to high a gear, reminds me of driving my wifes old Rex, you hit the throttle in the wrong gear and it just bogs down.

[whitels1ss]

What is the power button supposed to do in these 4 speeds?
Does it just change the shift points? It actually feels like a totally different car when you put it on, night and day.

Good it is going well, parkers sorted yet?



Yeah changes shift points, kickdown, downshifts etc.

Easiest way to see the difference is foot flat in second to third gear change
& you will notice a reasonable speed difference between power on and off.
Pity first gear is too short to see much difference as the 2-3 shift will see you well over the state speed limit. :shock:

On mine any time it is in power mode it spins the tires into second & on full throttle it spins into 3rd gear also (@ 135kmh) but softer shifts with it off.

[whitels1ss]

Ok, thanks for the reply. Mine feels like it has no throttle response when power mode is off, like it is just constantly laboring in to high a gear, reminds me of driving my wifes old Rex, you hit the throttle in the wrong gear and it just bogs down.

You should fit 3.46 diff gears & get a tune.

Mine was actually better on fuel as a daily around town with the 3.46 & it was heaps more lively to drive. :yup:

[BLACK 346]

You should fit 3.46 diff gears & get a tune.

Mine was actually better on fuel as a daily around town with the 3.46 & it was heaps more lively to drive. :yup:

Yeah, I can see that in it's future Ed.

And have forgotten about the parkers for now Ed. Still considering changing back to the Holden front down the track also.

[whitels1ss]

You should be able to buy a used diff cheap enough if you keep your eyes open.

[BLACK 346]

Another annoying issue has come up with it. The battery light came on on Sunday arvo. It started out coming on a few minutes into a drive and now it pretty much comes up instantly. It has a brand new alternator, and the diagnostic mode in the cars trip computer says it is charging at about 13.7 volts. The battery was pretty old, so went and bought a brand new Century battery, did SFA, the light remains. Maybe faulty alternator? No symptoms at this stage though. Have driven it about 60km today with the old battery in and it didn't miss a beat.

[whitels1ss]

Not sure, maybe just a bad earth

but I am sure an auto electrician will find the problem easy.

I would start by cleaning the battery terminals & earth strap.

[BLACK 346]

Not sure, maybe just a bad earth

but I am sure an auto electrician will find the problem easy.

I would start by cleaning the battery terminals & earth strap.

Has brand new terminals Ed, but I will take them off again check that they are getting a good connection. They are bolt on.

[whitels1ss]

I would go and see a sparky, they should find the problem quickly.

[BLACK 346]

I would go and see a sparky, they should find the problem quickly.

If it is the alternator that is dodgy Ed it is under warranty with Ultra tune, so not keen to throw money at a sparky if it is covered :)

[whitels1ss]

For sure Rod, did not know where you got it,



I would drop in to Ultra Tune & ask them to look at it for you.

[BLACK 346]

For sure Rod, did not know where you got it,



I would drop in to Ultra Tune & ask them to look at it for you.

Hey Ed, yeah was one of the plethora of items that got replaced whilst the motor was out. Popped in briefly after work yesterday which is how I found out the battery was starting to show it's age (they tested it). Will definitely drop it back and leave it as the alternator is under warranty. Was mainly looking to see if it was something simple I could fix first :)

[BLACK 346]

Ute is going in Saturday and they are fairly certain it is an internal issue with the alternator. Apparently the supplier wants them to check a couple of things with the wiring loom and if that checks out ok alt will be getting replaced under warranty. Also getting a couple of new O2's thrown in for good measure.
On another note, next week Brad is doing me a killer deal on a tune, so looking forward to seeing the results of that :)

[whitels1ss]

Great stuff Rod. :cheers:

[BLACK 346]

Great stuff Rod. :cheers:

Cheers Ed, hoping to get that Space shuttle fuel appetite down a fraction lol

[whitels1ss]

Cheers Ed, hoping to get that Space shuttle fuel appetite down a fraction lol

Hopefully Brad will sort it for you. :lol:

[BLACK 346]

Hopefully Brad will sort it for you. :lol:

Yes, I asked him about the O2's and he said absolutely replace them. They may even be the originals.

[BLACK 346]

Another thing that is on the never ending list is the fuel sender. The fuel guage is about as accurate as me pissing after 15 cans of Coopers Sparkling Ale. I assume it is a buggered sender unit. From what I have read it is accessed via a panel in the tray. I will need to remove the hard liner in the tray to access it though. How hard can that be lol.

[whitels1ss]

You should fit a decent Walbro pump at the same time, ready for that blower. :idea:

[BLACK 346]

You should fit a decent Walbro pump at the same time, ready for that blower. :idea:

Might as well I suppose :)

Might cam it down the track, but not sure I want two blown cars.

[Micks]

When I was quiet during Covid I ordered & built a fuel system for the Crewie, now too fucin busy to fit it aye! As Ed said great time to fit a larger capacity Walbro in tank job as they are cheap & easy to fit.

[Wonky]

From what I have read it is accessed via a panel in the tray. I will need to remove the hard liner in the tray to access it though. How hard can that be lol.

Depends exactly where. If the panel is in the back or front corner you should be able to get away without removing the whole liner? The whole liner in my SSV ute was out a couple of times but of course I didn't do it. From memory about 15 min or less with 2 guys??? :confused:

[Micks]

Depends exactly where. If the panel is in the back or front corner you should be able to get away without removing the whole liner? The whole liner in my SSV ute was out a couple of times but of course I didn't do it. From memory about 15 min or less with 2 guys??? :confused:

VU ute, there is no access panel, sender unit in these things is drop tank job to access. Gaz SSV VE? Same though bigger job, tailshaft, exhaust out & then tank drop, 15mins I'd like to see that!

[Wonky]

VU ute, there is no access panel, sender unit in these things is drop tank job to access. Gaz SSV VE? Same though bigger job, tailshaft, exhaust out & then tank drop, 15mins I'd like to see that!

I have no idea on VU Ute's so was just going on what Rod said "From what I have read it is accessed via a panel in the tray. I will need to remove the hard liner in the tray to access it though." Therefore I was talking about removing the tub liner. :)

[Micks]

I have no idea on VU Ute's so was just going on what Rod said "From what I have read it is accessed via a panel in the tray. I will need to remove the hard liner in the tray to access it though." Therefore I was talking about removing the tub liner. :)

That could be the case, VZ Utes do have an access panel, though workshop manual says tank drop, VE's VF's you need to make your own AP then work through the hole like a surgeon doing keyhole shit :lol:

[Wonky]

Yep, when I had the ZL1 pump (really just an E3 pump with wiring changes) installed in the Senator they just dropped the tank. Apparently some early VEs had the access panel under the back seat but mine (06/2008 build) didn't. :(

[A^K^T]

Another thing that is on the never ending list is the fuel sender. The fuel guage is about as accurate as me pissing after 15 cans of Coopers Sparkling Ale. I assume it is a buggered sender unit. From what I have read it is accessed via a panel in the tray. I will need to remove the hard liner in the tray to access it though. How hard can that be lol.

I had to replace a tank in a VU ute , in the tray under a panel in the bed floor behind the cab.
Stock fuel filter is under the car.

7507

[BLACK 346]

Got it back today. They pulled all the electrical connections and sensors and checked them, only one that came up faulty was the Coolant Level Sensor. That has been replaced and no battery light since. Put new O2 in as well. Next thing is the tune, but after that will be some brake upgrades. I know it ain't fair to compare it to the Brembo's on the Calais (been driving that all week), but the stuff on the ute is rubbish. I remember putting a Harrop street plus kit on the old VT2 when we first moved to Adelaide from Darwin and that was really good for what it was. From memory it was adaptors to suit 330mm rotors and the slotted rotors included. I reckon I will just get some slotted stock DBA rotors and maybe some EBC Red Stuff pads and see how much that improves things.

[Micks]

Rod good alternative is the C5/C6 Corvette PBR calipers with 330mm Front 310mm rears, good all round street package identical to what what fitted to 04-05 Clubbies.

[SASLS1]

VZ 6.0L's came out with the larger ( 320mm x 32mm front rotors and Corvette calipers ) from the factory, over the smaller standard VT Commodore onwards ( 296mm x 28mm front rotors and smaller calipers. )

Their a vast improvement over the standard VT 296mm x 28mm brakes.

[Micks]

VZ 6.0L's came out with the larger ( 320mm x 32mm front rotors and Corvette calipers ) from the factory, over the smaller standard VT Commodore onwards ( 296mm x 28mm front rotors and smaller calipers. )

Their a vast improvement over the standard VT 296mm x 28mm brakes.

Yes the VZ 6.0L came out with a 320mm rotor, but no they did not come with a C5 nor a C6 caliper, reason I know this as I have the original VZ 6.0L braking system from my late model 2006 Crewie & yes I did up grade to the C6 offerings which are a different caliper thanks ;)

[SASLS1]

Yes the VZ 6.0L came out with a 320mm rotor, but no they did not come with a C5 nor a C6 caliper, reason I know this as I have the original VZ 6.0L braking system from my late model 2006 Crewie & yes I did up grade to the C6 offerings which are a different caliper thanks ;)


Incorrect...

I should have been more specific, VZ Monaro's , VZ 6.0L Thunders, VZ SSZ's, and export Pontiac GTO's all came with the 2005 + C6 Spec Corvette Calipers which are larger than stock Holden VZ calipers.

2005 + C6 Corvette stock caliper below.

https://i.imgur.com/aMKtNlX.jpg

http://as-motorsport.com/site/images/products/357-front-brake-caliper-pair-z51-1.png


GTO / C6 Calipers are the same, just different caliper brackets.

https://i.imgur.com/xNueX5m.jpg


My OEM VZ 6.0L Thunder ute calipers are same as the GTO calipers above, but they are unpainted from Holden, and include the 320mm x 32mm rotor from the factory.

Only the Monaro / GTO / SSV / Corvette calipers came painted.

[BLACK 346]

Goes in for the tune at 1000 today, hopefully will notice a measurable difference.

Also found my braking solution, Harrop still do the standard plus kit :)

https://www.harrop.com.au/shop/standard-plus-kit-holden-vt-vz

[Micks]

Rod is that 4 wheels, rotors & calipers for that price?

[whitels1ss]

Goes in for the tune at 1000 today, hopefully will notice a measurable difference.

Also found my braking solution, Harrop still do the standard plus kit :)

https://www.harrop.com.au/shop/standard-plus-kit-holden-vt-vz

Looks like a good deal.

[BLACK 346]

Rod is that 4 wheels, rotors & calipers for that price?

lol, just the rotors from memory and I assume the adaptors to make the stock calipers fit the larger disc. I cannot remember what came with it when I bought this for the VT2 was so long ago.

[BLACK 346]

Brad just finished loading a MAFLESS tune into the old beast and wow what a difference. I can now drive it in normal non power mode quite comfortably without it feeling doughy and lifeless, flick it into power mode and it feels super strong with massive wheel spin into second even at half throttle. Very happy. He reckons I will see significant improvement in fuel economy as well. Now to try and source an adaptor for my maf pipe and I am currently just running with MAF unplugged.

[whitels1ss]

Great stuff Rod. :goodjob:


I would go for a 3.46 diff soon as well.

[BLACK 346]

Great stuff Rod. :goodjob:


I would go for a 3.46 diff soon as well.

That is definitely on my list Ed :)

[Micks]

lol, just the rotors from memory and I assume the adaptors to make the stock calipers fit the larger disc. I cannot remember what came with it when I bought this for the VT2 was so long ago.

Ok, yes Harrop gear is xp, but that is a great alternative to a larger full brake package.

[BLACK 346]

This thing has very noisy lifters for about 30 seconds at start up. Not unusual for an LS1 I know, particularly one with a few k onboard. I am thinking of trying the Nulon lifter free to see what it can do. What are peoples thoughts on this stuff?

[SASLS1]

This thing has very noisy lifters for about 30 seconds at start up. Not unusual for an LS1 I know, particularly one with a few k onboard. I am thinking of trying the Nulon lifter free to see what it can do. What are peoples thoughts on this stuff?


I switched from Castrol 10w-60 to Penrite 5W-40, and the 5W made my lifters alot quieter / happier on cold start. :)

[VLSteve]

Incorrect...

Only the Monaro / GTO / SSV / Corvette calipers came painted.
?
I've seen plenty of VZ Thunders with the red painted calipers, including mine..

[BLACK 346]

I switched from Castrol 10w-60 to Penrite 5W-40, and the 5W made my lifters alot quieter / happier on cold start. :)

Thanks mate. We did an oil change on it yesterday, went from Magnatec (leftover oil that we didn't use in my old mans car) and replaced it with Penrite 10W4O Semi Synthetic. This alone has made a significant difference, but will try the 5w next time and see how that goes.

[Peter B - CV8]

I've used the Penrite semi syn 10/40 in my LS1 in my 2004 Monaro practically since new - it now has 105,00- k's on it (so not really high mileage). I've never heard/had any lifter noise. I do an oil & filter change every 5,000 k's (basically annually) & every second change ie every 10,000 k's, I run some Repco engine flush through it for 10 mins before dropping the oil. Just before the 100,000 service last year, I used the Nulon "Lifter Free/Tune Up" ?? - just in case there were any hard deposits etc that might have built up over the years. I did about 1,000 k's travel (mainly city driving) & then dumped the oil - which came out a fraction darker than normal (at least I thought so). Engine is as quiet as a mouse at start up & when hot.

[BLACK 346]

On the topic of brakes, can anyone tell me if VY HSV brakes will fit under 17 inch SS Fifty wheels? They are 330mm front and 315 rear rotors. I have my eye on a set at the moment that seem pretty well priced at 1k and keen to grab them if they will fit. There looks to be a fair bit of room behind these rims.

[SASLS1]

?
I've seen plenty of VZ Thunders with the red painted calipers, including mine..


They must be the VZ Thunder updated versions, which were released a little later and had the different wheels.

Found this, describes it here.

https://www.caradvice.com.au/981/holden-ss-thunder-ute-2006/ (https://www.caradvice.com.au/981/holden-ss-thunder-ute-2006/)

I have the first version Thunder with the standard VZ Monaro wheels.

Holden raiding the parts bins trick, making special editions to get rid of surplus stock... :)



Also confirmed it here in the Specifications under Standard Equipment.

https://www.redbook.com.au/cars/details/2006-holden-ute-thunder-ss-vz-manual-my06/SPOT-ITM-229500/ (https://www.redbook.com.au/cars/details/2006-holden-ute-thunder-ss-vz-manual-my06/SPOT-ITM-229500/)

"Calipers - Front 2 Spot"

https://www.redbook.com.au/cars/details/2006-holden-ute-thunder-ss-vz-manual-my06/SPOT-ITM-229504/ (https://www.redbook.com.au/cars/details/2006-holden-ute-thunder-ss-vz-manual-my06/SPOT-ITM-229504/)

"Calipers - Painted Front"

[SASLS1]

PBR use to sell their M series Brakes, which were the huge 6 piston / 4 piston calipers directly from the C6 Z06 Corvette.

The PBR M Series commodore version came with 355mm x 32mm front vented rotors and 355 x 26mm rear vented rotors.

It was around $4500 when available from memory.

I wish now I had bought them.

I haven't seen them for sale for ages.

I saved this pic ages ago, on my laptop.

The Harrop brakes are so overpriced in comparison IMO...

https://i.imgur.com/flBiLnk.jpg

[BLACK 346]

These are the brakes I am looking to purchase. I think 1k is a pretty good price? Still not sure if they will fit under my rims though.

[BLACK 346]

PBR use to sell their M series Brakes, which were the huge 6 piston / 4 piston calipers directly from the C6 Z06 Corvette.

The PBR M Series commodore version came with 355mm x 32mm front vented rotors and 355 x 26mm rear vented rotors.

It was around $4500 when available from memory.

I wish now I had bought them.

I haven't seen them for sale for ages.

I saved this pic ages ago, on my laptop.

The Harrop brakes are so overpriced in comparison IMO...

https://i.imgur.com/flBiLnk.jpg

I remember looking at these when I had my VT2, very nice and well priced like you say.

[whitels1ss]

These are the brakes I am looking to purchase.
I think 1k is a pretty good price?
Still not sure if they will fit under my rims though.

I doubt they will fit under your wheels Rod,

we tried 17 inch SS wheels on my son's R8 & it did not work.

[SASLS1]

For shits and giggles a while back, I tried a OEM 15 inch steel wheel over my 320mm x 32mm rotor with the C6 / Thunder calipers, and to no surprise it didn't fit... :)

I could of told myself before I tried, but my curiosity was killing me.

[SASLS1]

These are the brakes I am looking to purchase. I think 1k is a pretty good price? Still not sure if they will fit under my rims though.


No idea if they would fit or not.

These Harrop "Front Only" Kit 343mm X 32mm / 4 piston calipers say and I quote " A minimum of an 17” wheel diameter is required - Caliper sweep template is available above in the download tab to check specific fitments."

https://www.harrop.com.au/shop/image/cache/catalog/Brake/Performance%20Front-1000x1000.jpg

https://www.harrop.com.au/shop/products/brakes/performance-kit-front-holden-vt-vz (https://www.harrop.com.au/shop/products/brakes/performance-kit-front-holden-vt-vz)

Pricey @ $2,420.00 just for fronts, but they may fit your 17's, and a rear upgrade is probably not required, the fronts do the vast majority of the work anyway.

[SASLS1]

$4400 for the whole kit, and it says the same line "A minimum of an 17” wheel diameter is required - Caliper sweep template is available above in the download tab to check specific fitments "

Yes they are pricey...

https://www.harrop.com.au/shop/products/brakes/performance-kit-holden-vt-vz (https://www.harrop.com.au/shop/products/brakes/performance-kit-holden-vt-vz)

https://www.harrop.com.au/shop/image/cache/catalog/Brake/VT-VZ-Performance-Brake-Kit2-1000x1000.jpg

[BLACK 346]

Makes 1k look like really good value for the whole set.

[BLACK 346]

I've used the Penrite semi syn 10/40 in my LS1 in my 2004 Monaro practically since new - it now has 105,00- k's on it (so not really high mileage). I've never heard/had any lifter noise. I do an oil & filter change every 5,000 k's (basically annually) & every second change ie every 10,000 k's, I run some Repco engine flush through it for 10 mins before dropping the oil. Just before the 100,000 service last year, I used the Nulon "Lifter Free/Tune Up" ?? - just in case there were any hard deposits etc that might have built up over the years. I did about 1,000 k's travel (mainly city driving) & then dumped the oil - which came out a fraction darker than normal (at least I thought so). Engine is as quiet as a mouse at start up & when hot.

Thanks Peter, sounds like I am on the right track. Interestingly when I cold started it this morning there was zero lifter noise at idle, but when I took off it rattled a bit for about 15 seconds and then went quiet again. Not perfect but a massive improvement compared to previous oil.

[BLACK 346]

Took a punt and picked up the brakes this arvo, got them for $900 (Less than the wreckers want for one of those front calipers). I don't reckon I will even get the rotors skimmed, just give them a good clean. Any tips for removing surface rust off the rotors? Give them a good hit with brake cleaner and let the pads do the rest?

[Micks]

Rod just a wire brush & new pads should be sweet. I don't like that dimpled rotor shit, but just wear them out for now. A set of braided lines will improve those too. Any consolation I paid about the same coin s/h about a decade ago from another member here.

[BLACK 346]

Rod just a wire brush & new pads should be sweet. I don't like that dimpled rotor shit, but just wear them out for now. A set of braided lines will improve those too. Any consolation I paid about the same coin s/h about a decade ago from another member here.

Cheers Mick, and yes I am not a fan of the drilled/dimpled rotors either, prefer just slotted. I will however as yous say clean them up and wear them out :)

[whitels1ss]

Cheers Mick, and yes I am not a fan of the drilled/dimpled rotors either, prefer just slotted. I will however as yous say clean them up and wear them out :)

I actually saw the advert for those brakes Rod,

I think you were very brave going to that suburb! :lmao:

[BLACK 346]

I actually saw the advert for those brakes Rod,

I think you were very brave going to that suburb! :lmao:

Your not wrong Ed, is certainly a different world out there, having worked out North for the past 12 years I certainly would not want to live there.

[BLACK 346]

Trying to work out which Safebrake braided line kit to order. I assume the hoses will be different to the standard hoses, but not sure which of the HSV kits suit these calipers, are they C5 or C6? Confusing.

[Micks]

Trying to work out which Safebrake braided line kit to order. I assume the hoses will be different to the standard hoses, but not sure which of the HSV kits suit these calipers, are they C5 or C6? Confusing.

Hey Rod the C5/C6 hoses on the pbr style calipers are the same & will interchange no problem.

[BLACK 346]

The calipers and rotors came up ok with a good clean and polish. Used Micks suggestion and got stuck in with a wire brush on the rotors, then some VHT brake paint to tidy up the black bits. Going off what you can see in the photos do you reckon I will get away with not machining them? They are a little pitted, but no grooving or scoring that I can see, and will be reinstalled with the same pads as they are near new by the look of them.

Also contacted Safebrake and they are making me up a VU SS Ute braided line kit with the correct hoses for the bigger front calipers and standard rear.

Also got a Tint a Car voucher for xmas so it goes in on the 7th for 5 percent tint on the back window and 20 percent on the side windows.

[BLACK 346]

Update. Spoke with Geoff at Ultratune last Thursday and he is not confident that they will fit under 17 inch wheels :( I will be taking them in some time later next week and he is going to trial fit one of the front rotors and calipers and we will go from there. Bit of a bummer if they don't, but I knew the risk when I bought them so can't really complain. I most certainly will not be changing wheels to make them fit though, so might be a set of brakes going cheap with braided lines next week lol.

[whitels1ss]

Best of luck with it Rod, for your sake I hope I am wrong but I think he is correct.

[Micks]

Update. Spoke with Geoff at Ultratune last Thursday and he is not confident that they will fit under 17 inch wheels :( I will be taking them in some time later next week and he is going to trial fit one of the front rotors and calipers and we will go from there. Bit of a bummer if they don't, but I knew the risk when I bought them so can't really complain. I most certainly will not be changing wheels to make them fit though, so might be a set of brakes going cheap with braided lines next week lol.

Hey Rod I can confirm the 330 fronts will not clear a 17" rim, rears no problem.
I have fitted VE 18" centre bored rims to my Crewie to overcome this issue.

[BLACK 346]

Hey Rod I can confirm the 330 fronts will not clear a 17" rim, rears no problem.
I have fitted VE 18" centre bored rims to my Crewie to overcome this issue.

Thanks Mick, so what fouls, is it the Caliper? For what it is worth the bloke that sold them to me reckons he had them under 17's and they just cleared by a bees dick. He told me this after I had purchased them and saw that I had 17's on the ute. I am hanging on to slight hope that my rims are special lol.

[Micks]

Thanks Mick, so what fouls, is it the Caliper? For what it is worth the bloke that sold them to me reckons he had them under 17's and they just cleared by a bees dick. He told me this after I had purchased them and saw that I had 17's on the ute. I am hanging on to slight hope that my rims are special lol.

Rod The Caliper, though I was running VZ SS 17" oem rims, perhaps a different offset a/m rim may clear dunno? I know the VZ SS 2006 320mm PBR caliper/disc will clear the 17" rim no problem.

[motomk]

I had the HSV 330mm brakes under my VTII SS rims. Pretty sure 17 inch was the minimum so they might fit.

[BLACK 346]

I had the HSV 330mm brakes under my VTII SS rims. Pretty sure 17 inch was the minimum so they might fit.

Cheers mate, you give me renewed hope :)

[BLACK 346]

Got the windows tinted quite a bit darker on Thursday, really happy with how it looks and has made the cabin a few degrees cooler as well. Goes in next Thursday to see if the brakes will fit, will be rapt if they do. Fuel consumption has now dropped to a more reasonable 13l/100 around town (ave speed around 40kmh), so the tune has certainly done what Brad said it would.

[BLACK 346]

Brakes are on :)

Will try and get better photos later, but here are a couple I snapped quickly.

[Micks]

Rod wow the rim to caliper clearance is absolute minimal, are you sure they're 330mm discs? Unless C5 calipers are smaller than C6? I have the latter C6's on my Crewie & a 17" won't clear the caliper.

[BLACK 346]

Rod wow the rim to caliper clearance is absolute minimal, are you sure they're 330mm discs? Unless C5 calipers are smaller than C6? I have the latter C6's on my Crewie & a 17" won't clear the caliper.

Yes Mick, definitely 330 front and 315 rear, had to get one of the front wheels balanced again though to move the wheel weight for caliper clearance. I believe it comes down to wheel offset. Geoff at UT could not believe that they fit either as a mate of his tried to fit the same brakes to a Crewman with aftermarket 18's and they were not even close to fitting.

[Micks]

Rod I noticed mine have an aftermarket caliper/adapter bracket these being C6, there could be a difference, but great you have them on. You may notice as I did for the first day or so to have a spongy brake pedal but they come good after another day or so. Everytime I have mine bled does the same.

[BLACK 346]

Rod I noticed mine have an aftermarket caliper/adapter bracket these being C6, there could be a difference, but great you have them on. You may notice as I did for the first day or so to have a spongy brake pedal but they come good after another day or so. Everytime I have mine bled does the same.

Cheers Mick, and yes the pedal does feel super spongy, was a bit strange at first but I thought it might be normal. Good to know it will get firmer over time :)

[whitels1ss]

Well done Rod.:goodjob:

[motomk]

Brakes are on :)

Will try and get better photos later, but here are a couple I snapped quickly.

Gulp...they are close!

[motomk]

On my VEII SS, when I had the Harrops fitted, they had to use fancy low profile wheel weights to clear the calipers.

[amckiwi]

On my VEII SS, when I had the Harrops fitted, they had to use fancy low profile wheel weights to clear the calipers.

I resemble this comment
I had the wheel weights moved before I had the brakes fitted

[BLACK 346]

Latest ute issue, looks like the brake booster has started to shit itself. Driving back from the city yesterday started getting a fairly loud noise coming from under the dash like air being sucked in or expelled. Took it into UT this morning and they say the Booster is shot. Looking at getting one of the below for replacement, it appears that all Commodores from V6 up to and including HSV use the same booster.

https://www.holdencommodoreparts.com.au/product/holden-commodore-vt-vx-vy-brake-booster-79-including-free-postage/

[BLACK 346]

Strange thing is that the brakes still feel really strong, just took it for a drive and gave the brakes a hard time and they feel really good even after repeated hard stops.

[whitels1ss]

Strange thing is that the brakes still feel really strong,
just took it for a drive and gave the brakes a hard time and they feel really good even after repeated hard stops.

I would be very careful & not drive it until it is sorted.

Why don't you just buy another booster locally & fit it today?

[BLACK 346]

I would be very careful & not drive it until it is sorted.

Why don't you just buy another booster locally & fit it today?

Don't have the time Ed, also well over working on cars in the driveway/shed, would rather pay to have it done. So you saying it is dangerous to drive, whereas UT told me it is only the booster and brakes will still be fine just require more effort if it fails. This makes sense to me as it is just vacuum assistance from the motor isn't it? Different story if the Master cylinder failed I would think leading to total loss of brakes? Correct me if wrong please :)

[BLACK 346]

Don't have the time Ed, also well over working on cars in the driveway/shed, would rather pay to have it done. So you saying it is dangerous to drive, whereas UT told me it is only the booster and brakes will still be fine just require more effort if it fails. This makes sense to me as it is just vacuum assistance from the motor isn't it? Different story if the Master cylinder failed I would think leading to total loss of brakes? Correct me if wrong please :)

Edit: I am being super careful when driving though :)

[whitels1ss]

Hey Rod, I do not know exactly what is wrong with it
but if I was told my car had a faulty brake booster I would be very cautious.

I am actually surprised that a workshop would tell a customer it is okay to drive &
then go on to say that if it fails the brakes would just need "more effort".

(I certainly would not want to find the thing fails when you have to stop in an emergency.)

Hey if it was me I would not want to chance it.

[Micks]

If the booster totally fails the plunger goes straight through & will operate like non boosted brakes, hence more pedal effort is required.

[BLACK 346]

Your dead right Ed, my wife told me to park it up until fixed this morning also. So will follow this advice. Not like I don't have other cars to drive :)

[BLACK 346]

Getting hard to get parts for these cars now. Only option Ultra Tune could find was reconditioned for $275 and two day turnaround. Repco were able to source one for nearly $800 then I found a Protex one on the SCA website for $358, ended up getting the last one in the country and it is being shipped from NSW. Got it for $320 with my Trade Card.

[whitels1ss]

I have to replace the booster on my Ford.

It has a strange problem which is that the booster is made of plastic & when the outside temperature gets over around 35 degrees
with all the under bonnet temperature of the V8 engine & the age of the car, the booster expands after about 1/2 hour of driving
causing the brakes to get slightly applied causing a shudder through the car & a fair bit of heat from the brakes.

As soon as it cools down the problem goes away & as I said it only ever happens after extended driving on a day over 35 degrees.



Bloody Fords! :doh:

[BLACK 346]

Got the booster today, and just to set things straight, this is not a brand new booster, it is definitely reconditioned. This surprised me coming from SCA, I did not know that they dealt in second hand parts.

[BLACK 346]

Bought a replacement electric aerial and had it installed today. Easy plug and play you would think. Not a chance. The aerial goes up and that is where it is stuck. Tried reversing the polarity to the aerial power and it just stays down and won't go up at all. So now off to an Auto electrician, hopefully before someone snaps it off. Not happy that people sell you stuff that is supposed to be the exact part for your particular model and then it just isn't.

[GPT]

If the booster totally fails the plunger goes straight through & will operate like non boosted brakes, hence more pedal effort is required.

A hell of a lot more, I had the booster blow on a VN SS and you needed to literally stand on the pedal to stop

[whitels1ss]

A hell of a lot more, I had the booster blow on a VN SS and you needed to literally stand on the pedal to stop

Yeah, not like the older cars, I threw a belt on my blower on my SS just after I fitted it
& not only did I have massive problems pulling the car up, the steering felt like it was almost locked up.

I can drive my old Corvette without a power steering belt but the SS is another story.

I actually heard the belt come off, saw the alternator light come on & knew exactly what had happened
but was not in the best place to stop so I thought I would turn into a side street about 200m down the road
to sort it out. It gave me a bit of a wake up though. :lol:

I had a bad tensioner on the belt & although it was very hot under the hood around the radiator managed to
refit the belt in around 5 minutes.

(Since fitted better new tensioner & belt, no further problems.) :goodjob:

[Micks]

A hell of a lot more, I had the booster blow on a VN SS and you needed to literally stand on the pedal to stop

Yes though if you know what your your doing...Carefully engaging the handbrake will pull you up too, have done this a few times without incident over the last 35yrs :D

[whitels1ss]

Yes though if you know what your your doing...Carefully engaging the handbrake will pull you up too, have done this a few times without incident over the last 35yrs :D

Yeah, I have been driving over 45 years
but it's not exactly safe if you need to stop in an emergency Mick.

The newer ones are far worse than the old cars were.

I certainly would not tell anyone it was safe to keep driving! :slap::teach::stick: :lol:

[Micks]

Yeah, I have been driving over 45 years
but it's not exactly safe if you need to stop in an emergency Mick.

The newer ones are far worse than the old cars were.

I certainly would not tell anyone it was safe to keep driving! :slap::teach::stick: :lol:

Sure Ed, if you don't how to handle a vehicle! :rofl:

[whitels1ss]

Sure Ed, if you don't how to handle a vehicle! :rofl:

I wonder if you would tell your daughter to keep driving in the same situation? :doh:

Do you reckon you are some sort of driving super hero legend or something? :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead: :banghead:

A car is not safe to drive if it has faulty brakes, end of story! :teach:

[Micks]

I wonder if you would tell your daughter to keep driving in the same situation? :doh:

Do you reckon you are some sort of driving super hero legend or something? :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead: :banghead:

FFS Ed are you gunna keep going on like ol sheila all night! :lmao:

[whitels1ss]

FFS Ed are you gunna keep going on like ol sheila all night! :lmao:

FFS Mick. Can't you ever admit that you are wrong and talking rubbish? :lmao:

[BLACK 346]

Picked up a second hand head unit tonight for $50, hoping the CD player works and sort of hoping it fixed my Aerial problem. It came with no code. Now my question is this, is the code specific to the vehicle or the actual head unit? If I ring Holden do I give them the serial number for the head unit and that enables them to give me the correct 4 digit code?

[whitels1ss]

As far as I remember to get the code for the radio you need to quote the VIN.

[jc_sv8]

I put a new aerial in mine after the original gave up the ghost and stopped going up and down and the radio was sounding like it’s not tuned right.
The new one made no difference and it still gets plenty of static.

[BLACK 346]

As far as I remember to get the code for the radio you need to quote the VIN.

Thanks Ed, wouldn't that mean it is the same code no matter what head unit is in the vehicle? I would have thought the code would be specific to each head unit?

[BLACK 346]

I put a new aerial in mine after the original gave up the ghost and stopped going up and down and the radio was sounding like it’s not tuned right.
The new one made no difference and it still gets plenty of static.

Yeah, from what I have read they were a rubbish head unit to start with. I am only sticking with it as I want to keep this car as close to original as possible.

[whitels1ss]

Thanks Ed, wouldn't that mean it is the same code no matter what head unit is in the vehicle? I would have thought the code would be specific to each head unit?

From what I remember the pin codes for the audio units are all different
but you give the Holden dealer the VIN for them to look up the pin to suit the audio unit fitted to the car.

I think it is a fair bit harder to get the pin from the serial number on the radio.

Did you get the Audio unit from a wrecker?
They might be able to give you the VIN from the vehicle it came from?

[BLACK 346]

From what I remember the pin codes for the audio units are all different
but you give the Holden dealer the VIN for them to look up the pin to suit the audio unit fitted to the car.

I think it is a fair bit harder to get the pin from the serial number on the radio.

Did you get the Audio unit from a wrecker?
They might be able to give you the VIN from the vehicle it came from?

Thanks Ed, makes sense. Got it from a bloke on FB Marketplace and he pulled it from a car that he no longer owns, going to make things hard as per usual lol

[whitels1ss]

Thanks Ed, makes sense. Got it from a bloke on FB Marketplace and he pulled it from a car that he no longer owns, going to make things hard as per usual lol

Perhaps, if you haven't already, ask if he has VIN of the car still?

[BLACK 346]

Perhaps, if you haven't already, ask if he has VIN of the car still?

Yes did that Ed, he ignored me. Service manager at Peter Page Hyundai is going to try and get it from Eurovox for me using the srl number and VIN from my ute. Might still be to no avail though, I just plugged it in again and now have two lines across the screen and no option to put code in, might have given up the ghost. It looks brand new to look at.

[BLACK 346]

My next move is the put the facia from my current head unit onto the head unit that I bought. I assume the code is stored somewhere on the circuit board so in theory that should retain my current security code but have the working guts of the new head unit. That is my hope anyway. Not hard to do, about ten screws all up.

[whitels1ss]

My next move is the put the facia from my current head unit onto the head unit that I bought.
I assume the code is stored somewhere on the circuit board so in theory that should retain my current security code but have the working guts of the new head unit.
That is my hope anyway.
Not hard to do, about ten screws all up.

Sounds like it might do the trick. :thumbsup:

[BLACK 346]

Another gremlin that we are trying to track down is the cruise control. Worked fine prior to doing the HSV Brakes and Booster, now it will not engage. It has engaged for a couple of seconds a few times but then drops straight out. So far have replaced the stalk with brand new item, and also the switch on the pedal (also brand new item). Only other things I can think of is the actual unit itself under the bonnet. Have I missed anything? Can get one of them second hand for about $50.

[whitels1ss]

Cruise control works by using the ABS sensors for monitoring the speed the brake rotors are turning as a speed sensor.


Is the ABS okay or any warning lights on?

[BLACK 346]

Cruise control works by using the ABS sensors for monitoring the speed the brake rotors are turning as a speed sensor.


Is the ABS okay or any warning lights on?

No warning lights or codes Ed, but I will flag this with Geoff at UT as he did not mention that he had checked any of this. I just assume he had run his code reader on the car so will check that as well.

[whitels1ss]

I would have expected that if there was any problems or conflicts with the wheel sensors on your new rotors you would have an ABS light on.

[Micks]

ABS sensors VT-VZ are all monitored in hub, not rotors. ;)

[whitels1ss]

ABS sensors VT-VZ are all monitored in hub, not rotors. ;)

Okay, I must have been thinking of something else. :cheers:

[Micks]

Rod has the beast been tuned? Did the cruise work correctly at all since you have owned it? I know on the later gen4's if tuned certain tables can mess with cruise if overlooked.

[BLACK 346]

Rod has the beast been tuned? Did the cruise work correctly at all since you have owned it? I know on the later gen4's if tuned certain tables can mess with cruise if overlooked.

Yes Mick, was mafless tuned by Brad at Enhanced, was just one of his mail order tunes, nothing custom or fancy. And yes it did work fine when I got the car, just not exactly sure when it stopped working. You certainly have me thinking now though, I may not have used it since the tune which was about 6 weeks ago. Will flick a message to Brad and see what he says :)

[BLACK 346]

As for the electric Aerial, that has everyone stumped as well. Have spoken to a respected Auto Electrician and Audio business and neither have ever encountered an electric aerial that will go up but now down. I am thinking it must be a BCM issue. The place that sold me the aerial have sent out a replacement but I have little faith that this is the problem so am going fit the new aerial and have a manual aerial ready to go if it does the same thing and just install that. In hindsight the electric Ae are just a pain in the arse that will fail again down the track anyway.

[BLACK 346]

ABS sensors VT-VZ are all monitored in hub, not rotors. ;)

So just to confirm Mick, my recent brake change should not have upset the cruise control? ie I can rule that out?

[Micks]

So just to confirm Mick, my recent brake change should not have upset the cruise control? ie I can rule that out?

Yes Rod, rotors have no sensors all monitored at the rotating front hubs and rear axles.

[Peter B - CV8]

Just a suggestion out of left field... are all of your brake lights working ?? Have heard that this can affect cruise control engaging.

[BLACK 346]

Just a suggestion out of left field... are all of your brake lights working ?? Have heard that this can affect cruise control engaging.

Hey Peter, yes mate, we checked that straight up as was my hope that this was what was causing it :)

[BLACK 346]

Small update on the ute. I have decided that I want to put the front back to the factory style SS front (same as VX SS). Therefore I purchased a full front bar kit from Kingswood Country with bar, headlights and fog lights. I am putting the wife's Mazda into Regal crash early next month to have the boot spoiler resprayed and will get a quote to paint and fit whilst I am there.

https://www.kingswoodcountry.com.au/buy/holden-commodore-vt-vx-vu-ss-gmh-front-bumper-bar/kGM-92075729-a

[whitels1ss]

I think it will look much better like that Rod. :goodjob:

I have personally never been a fan of the GTO fronts.

[BLACK 346]

I think it will look much better like that Rod. :goodjob:

I have personally never been a fan of the GTO fronts.

Agree Ed. I did not mind the front when I bought it as it was different. After seeing a few utes getting around with the VX front I certainly think they look better.

[whitels1ss]

Agree Ed.
I did not mind the front when I bought it as it was different.
After seeing a few utes getting around with the VX front I certainly think they look better.

I like the original look but I am sure you will be able to get a few dollars back for your GTO front if you decide to sell it.

I changed my wheels on my old SS a little while ago
but I will be going back to stock again when I get it back on the road.

[Micks]

Hey Rod were you able to sort the cruise issue?

[BLACK 346]

Hey Rod were you able to sort the cruise issue?

Not yet Mick, need to track down the correct cruise unit, is on my to do list :)

[SASLS1]

Small update on the ute. I have decided that I want to put the front back to the factory style SS front (same as VX SS). Therefore I purchased a full front bar kit from Kingswood Country with bar, headlights and fog lights. I am putting the wife's Mazda into Regal crash early next month to have the boot spoiler resprayed and will get a quote to paint and fit whilst I am there.


Yes the VXSS Front End Rocks...... :D:D:D


https://i.imgur.com/ViRbaV6.jpg

[Smitty]

Yes the VXSS Front End Rocks...... :D:D:D


https://i.imgur.com/ViRbaV6.jpg



I loved that.... when VX was released

7951

I was taken in by the brochure, the advertising

7953


even this....
7954


yeah... I went out and bought one :driving:

7955


worst piece of shit I have ever had.....
3 engines, 2 rebuilds
more here...
http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?33063-Special-Warranty-treatment

it was the reason I joined here :lmao:

[whitels1ss]

worst piece of shit I have ever had.....
3 engines, 2 rebuilds
more here...
http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?33063-Special-Warranty-treatment

it was the reason I joined here :lmao:


^^^^^^ :lmao:

Well I think many of us are thankful that it brought you here Smitty. :goodjob:

[Micks]

Yes the first series LS1's had many problems excessive piston slap for one!

[BLACK 346]

So whilst I am waiting for the car to go in and have the proper SS front sprayed and installed, I was thinking of getting the diff gears done. I am torn between 3.46 and 3.73, anyone have any thoughts on which one to go for?

[whitels1ss]

For a daily driver I would go the 3.46. :cheers:

[Micks]

If your not doing many Hwy K's go the 3.73 :)

[VXSS346]

It really depends what your after, I went 3.46 and I'm happy with them. I personally wouldn't go any lower.

3.73 would pull harder, but then 4th gear will start to feel too short for a road car IMHO.

[BLACK 346]

If your not doing many Hwy K's go the 3.73 :)

It does more city k's by far Mick, but I do take it down the Freeway a couple of times per months, about 150km return in 100kmh zones.

[BLACK 346]

I have reached out to a couple of businesses for quotes, fit diff gears and recal speedo (if they can do the speedo). What should I expect cost wise? I know the gears are about $450ish brand new. I am thinking in the ballpark of around $1000-$1200 drive in drive out? Does that sound right?

[BLACK 346]

Just got my first quote back, fk me dead, am I missing something or is this a bit on the expensive side?

"your diff should be IRS, with rubber coupling front and rear of tailshaft thus should be spigot type gear set so:-

1 x spigot gear set 3:46 or 3:73 available OE. =$815

1 x complete brg and seal and o ring nut and spacer kit =$280

Fill with LSD oil and friction modifier,sundries and freight =$110

Total labour drive in drive out =$1120

All totals =$2325. Incl gst

TAKE NOTE, plus any unforeseen lsd repairs or replace,any unforeseen extras regarding remove and refit on any other external items."

[whitels1ss]

I have reached out to a couple of businesses for quotes, fit diff gears and recal speedo (if they can do the speedo). What should I expect cost wise? I know the gears are about $450ish brand new. I am thinking in the ballpark of around $1000-$1200 drive in drive out? Does that sound right?

Your mate Brad should recal your speedo for very little money,
yours being auto will also need the tune tweaked to shift at the correct WOT points.


Apart from the speedo tweak (which my tuner would not charge me anything for on my car)

I would expect to pay under $1000 if using brand new gears & bearings.

But....

I would be more likely to just buy a second hand 3.46 diff for around $500 & fit it myself if it was mine.

[BLACK 346]

Your mate Brad should recal your speedo for very little money,
yours being auto will also need the tune tweaked to shift at the correct WOT points.


Apart from the speedo tweak (which my tuner would not charge me anything for on my car)

I would expect to pay under $1000 if using brand new gears & bearings.

But....

I would be more likely to just buy a second hand 3.46 diff for around $500 & fit it myself if it was mine.

Don't have the time or inclination Ed. Just got a reply from Precision Diff, they no longer do installs, only sell products. Why is everything so fkn hard in Adelaide, I reckon Darwin was easier to get stuff done on your car to be honest. Will hit Brad up, but he is so busy and probably a 9 year wait lol.

[whitels1ss]

Don't have the time or inclination Ed. Just got a reply from Precision Diff, they no longer do installs, only sell products. Why is everything so fkn hard in Adelaide, I reckon Darwin was easier to get stuff done on your car to be honest. Will hit Brad up, but he is so busy and probably a 9 year wait lol.

Brad should be able to set the speedo & shift points in 10 minutes on his laptop.

Why not get your mates at Ultra Tune to do the diff work?

[BLACK 346]

Brad should be able to set the speedo & shift points in 10 minutes on his laptop.

Why not get your mates at Ultra Tune to do the diff work?

That was my first point of call, Geoff directed me to Precision diffs and they replied saying that they no longer do installs. Will ask him again :)

[whitels1ss]

Perhaps give Dave a call at Exhaust Plus (EP Performance Dyno) at Salisbury?
(He has a Mainline dyno & does lots of stuff there.)


Not sure if he would do that but they are pretty handy.

That is your side of town?

[BLACK 346]

Perhaps give Dave a call at Exhaust Plus (EP Performance Dyno) at Salisbury?
(He has a Mainline dyno & does lots of stuff there.)


Not sure if he would do that but they are pretty handy.

That is your side of town?

I work over that way, but live over near Windsor Gardens

[whitels1ss]

Another place would be Recar on that side of town but I don't know what they would be like on price.

https://www.re-car.com.au/

[BLACK 346]

Another place would be Recar on that side of town but I don't know what they would be like on price.

https://www.re-car.com.au/

They seem to list everything except diffs. I will contact them anyway, cheers.

[BLACK 346]

Am I right in thinking that quote above is excessive? I don't mind paying for a good job, but am not going to be ripped off.

[whitels1ss]

Am I right in thinking that quote above is excessive?

Yeah, I think it is.

Rather than that, surely you could just buy a decent used 3.46 diff & get your mate at Ultra Tune to fit it?

[VXSS346]

Just to give you an idea, I looked up my old receipts, I payed $400 for second hand but VGC 3.46 diff gears, then Central Diffs did 'drive in/out' for $800. Speedo/software stuff was done by my tuner for next to nothing.

This was back in 2008 though. :lol:

[Micks]

Just got my first quote back, fk me dead, am I missing something or is this a bit on the expensive side?

"your diff should be IRS, with rubber coupling front and rear of tailshaft thus should be spigot type gear set so:-

1 x spigot gear set 3:46 or 3:73 available OE. =$815

1 x complete brg and seal and o ring nut and spacer kit =$280

Fill with LSD oil and friction modifier,sundries and freight =$110

Total labour drive in drive out =$1120

All totals =$2325. Incl gst

TAKE NOTE, plus any unforeseen lsd repairs or replace,any unforeseen extras regarding remove and refit on any other external items."

Rod that labour content is about 40% over the top IMHO

[BLACK 346]

Rod that labour content is about 40% over the top IMHO

Thanks Mick, I thought it was excessive. The diff gears are about 40 percent dearer than what I have been quoted also. The fact that he had to guess that it was IRS when I told them it was a 2002 VU SS worries me also, what else would it be.

[BLACK 346]

Opened my new replacement front bar this morning. Not impressed. It has what looks to be either a mold imperfection or it has taken a massive hit. The whole bit where it is damaged just feels flimsy. I am going to take it to Regal crash on Monday and see what they say regarding the quality of the bar.

[Micks]

Thanks Mick, I thought it was excessive. The diff gears are about 40 percent dearer than what I have been quoted also. The fact that he had to guess that it was IRS when I told them it was a 2002 VU SS worries me also, what else would it be.

Exactly mate, that model only had IRS cannot have any other type of rear axle aye!

[BLACK 346]

Geoff from UT just told me that he had a diff gear and tru trac supply and install at Precision last year for $2500, so Race Diff certainly do not want my business it seems.

[BLACK 346]

Good news all round. The bar is actually NOS and a Genuine Holden bar. The panel shop said it is good. And Brad is getting back to me for a quote on diff gears shortly. Then I reckon
end of the year when it is not being driven to work at 0530 in the morning I will get Brad to put a massive cam and stall in it.

[whitels1ss]

Wow..... That might liven it up.

Are you retiring at the end of the year Rod?

[BLACK 346]

Wow..... That might liven it up.

Are you retiring at the end of the year Rod?

Thinking about it, coming up to 33 years half Navy half Air Force. Will see how I feel come end of year :)

[whitels1ss]

Thinking about it,
coming up to 33 years half Navy half Air Force.
Will see how I feel come end of year :)

Good stuff.

The very best of luck to you Rod! :cheers:

[BLACK 346]

Brad got back to me last night regarding the diff gears. He reckons skip both 3.4 and 3.7 and go straight to 3.9. After doing a bit of interweb reading I am inclined to agree with him. What do others think? He also said 3.9 will be better with a big cam down the track.

[whitels1ss]

Brad got back to me last night regarding the diff gears. He reckons skip both 3.4 and 3.7 and go straight to 3.9. After doing a bit of interweb reading I am inclined to agree with him. What do others think? He also said 3.9 will be better with a big cam down the track.

All depends on what you plan doing with your car Rod,

if you are going big cam & stall to make it quicker for the quarter mile I agree 100%.

If it is just a daily or second car I personally would keep it milder. :cheers:

[BLACK 346]

All depends on what you plan doing with your car Rod,

if you are going big cam & stall to make it quicker for the quarter mile I agree 100%.

If it is just a daily or second car I personally would keep it milder. :cheers:

Don't really care if it is fast Ed, just want to liven it up a bit, and then down the track make it sound tough :)

[whitels1ss]

Don't really care if it is fast Ed, just want to liven it up a bit,

and then down the track make it sound tough :)

You are a big hoon Rod! :stick: :lmao:

[Micks]

Rod it will be more lively & revs will be a little bit higher doing highway driving. :cool:

[BLACK 346]

You are a big hoon Rod! :stick: :lmao:

You know how it is Ed lol. Just cannot stop, like a fkn disease :)

[BLACK 346]

So 3.4 is out. Now to decide between 3.7 and 3.9. Will work out the revs at 110 for each set of gears and then drive around tomorrow at those revs and see if it will piss me off.

[whitels1ss]

This thread might help Rod.

http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?49533-Txmsn-amp-Diff-Gearing-A4

[BLACK 346]

This thread might help Rod.

http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?49533-Txmsn-amp-Diff-Gearing-A4

So tomorrow I drive around at 2400 and 2500 and see if it drives me nuts lol

[whitels1ss]

Basically, if you just take it a drive along the freeway in 3rd gear & you will be quite close. :yup:

If you feel tempted to shift into 4th gear it shows you are not happy. :lmao:

[BLACK 346]

Basically, if you just take it a drive along the freeway in 3rd gear & you will be quite close. :yup:

If you feel tempted to shift into 4th gear it shows you are not happy. :lmao:

Yes, was messing around today with the box to try and replicate it, but now that I know exact revs will be able to do it properly :)

[BLACK 346]

I reckon I will get some Superpro rear subframe bushes whilst I am at it, and also the diff mount maybe. The whole arse of this thing feels loose as a goose going around corners. I don't need it to handle like a sports car, but compared to our other cars it just does not feel right.

https://superpro.com.au/find/superpro-subframe-bush-kit-for-a-superpro-suspension-parts-and-poly-bushings-for-holden-commodore-2000-2002-vu-ute-/productnr-SPF3267K/cid-999501046/vid-

[whitels1ss]

Yes, I put all that in mine a few years ago, it is good stuff!

[BLACK 346]

Found this on FB Market Place this morning. $20 and an hours driving. Will do two hole mod on it and fit to front of airbox. Been a few years since I have seen one (like 15), but think it is an MCAI?

[whitels1ss]

I still have one in my shed. :yup:

[SASLS1]

Found this on FB Market Place this morning. $20 and an hours driving. Will do two hole mod on it and fit to front of airbox. Been a few years since I have seen one (like 15), but think it is an MCAI?

Yes it's a MCAI.

You can fit a 2nd 90mm PVC pipe in it, enlarging the OEM small hole to 90mm, (then you'll have twin 90mm holes ) it's tight but clears eveything, and fits just below the OEM filter without interfering with it too.

Easiest to make up with the headlight removed so you can eyeball which direction to enlarge the small OEM hole out too, to clear for the 90mm PVC pipe.

Chain drilling, filing and sand paper you can make a nice neat job of it.

[BLACK 346]

Yes it's a MCAI.

You can fit a 2nd 90mm PVC pipe in it, enlarging the OEM small hole to 90mm, (then you'll have twin 90mm holes ) it's tight but clears eveything, and fits just below the OEM filter without interfering with it too.

Easiest to make up with the headlight removed so you can eyeball which direction to enlarge the small OEM hole out too, to clear for the 90mm PVC pipe.

Chain drilling, filing and sand paper you can make a nice neat job of it.

Cheers mate. I did a couple of these for people back in the day when living in Darwin. Good idea to remove the headlight, would definitely make things easier.