Ordered me new ss ute

[Dover]

Ordered on friday, VY II SS Ute in silver with tints and tow kit.
Any special way to run em in?
Should at its 1500km inspection i get all oils changed (motor, auto, diff)?

I hope ta get it this week..

cheers
Ben

[SV8VY]

Oh no here comes he different opinions... :lol:
I believe to run em in pretty hard.
Wait until the engine is warm though and give it what for at variable speeds but don't red line it if a manual too much in the first 1000k.Don't drive on the freeway at a constant speed just to get the km. :bash:
Drive it hard,give it a rest (slower pace)then again and so on.
Warm it down also.
Change all the oils after 1000 km (I don't care what Holden think) as this will be the most important oil change of all.
Don't use any synthetic oils for at least the 10,000 km service.
Important: Don't lag the car in a taller gear especially up hill.
My motto is drive it hard but not like its stolen.
I break in all my cars and bikes like this and found over the 20 or so years driving that all the vehicles including the LS1 has no engine problems or oil consumption problem.
Above all don't get busted on the road at high speeds as breaking in the car is no excuse.
Maybe a few runs on the strip will do it good :D

[EL2]

I agree 100% with SV8VY!

[Dover]

Thanks sv8vy,
Yea I thinkin for a couppla hunge for all oils replaced is good for peace of mind.
and there are no plans of babying it, but wont monster it staight away either..

Where should i start with mods (pipes,cai,edit whatever that is??)?

cheers
ben

[SV8VY]

Thanks sv8vy,
Yea I thinkin for a couppla hunge for all oils replaced is good for peace of mind.
and there are no plans of babying it, but wont monster it staight away either..

Where should i start with mods (pipes,cai,edit whatever that is??)?

cheers
ben
There are many threads on this forum regarding this.Just do a search (you will be here for months :) )
Edit is when the standard computer is edited via a qualified technician and can give you an extra 20% of power and change other settings on the car eg extra rpm before red line,quicker gear shift points if auto...
cai is cold air intake which normally consists of a bigger tpipe from throttle body (from the engine)to the maf meter (just before the air box),a better air filter or pod and more cold air going to the engine.There are many ideas and you can spend $ on the SS kits but some prefer a 100 mm pipe from left side quarter panel to air box (like me)
There is also the option to get rid of the maf meter (edit needed) and there are many views on this.
I suggest you see if you can meet up with some of the guys here and I am sure they would be more than willing to talk to you and show off their mods....maybe at a drag strip :D

[Drizzt]

I've got a differing opinion on running in the car. I'm sure everyone hwo's had a rebuild for excessive oil consumption and piston slap will agree, there's no better way to run in a new motor than to wring it's necka bit and drive it as per my signature. That way you'll ensure you've bedded the pistons properly and less likely to have future problems.

The original owner of my car babied it from new so I got it at 45k as a oil guzzling cold start piston slapping beast that still made good power. I had it rebuilt ~50k and WOT it quite a few times the night I picked it up from the rebuild. Since then no issues at all.


Drizzt

[Dacious]

Congrats. If it were mine I'd neither baby it or trash it new. I know enough engine builders, including race motor builders who recommend brisk operation, but not redline, nor lugging in a tall gear. Lugging glazes the bores, over-revving/WFO operation on new unbedded rings tempers them and results in loss of spring - either will sooner or later mean loss of bore-seal and increased blow-by. Just MO and I know they're like a/holes. Letting the motor rev freely is a good idea, but don't force it to rev. Mine felt tight and unwilling to go past 5 grand for 600 kms then loostened noticably. It now revs freely. Run-in depends on how the engine is built - some aftermarket builders have their own ideas/philosphies of clearances and race motors are built 'loose' to expedite run-in, but brand newies are usually tight.

Both GM and Mobil say there's no reason not to use Mobil 1 in a brand new motor - that's how Corvettes come from Chev. Personally I think letting the motor knock the dags off into dino oil is a good policy but I'd get them to change it at the first service, which Holden won't do unless you ask.

Other than that and until run in, don't use cruise control, drop the trans back a gear by thumbing 'sport' on long hills and go on a nice windy country road trip to run it in, varying speed. Nothing wrong with city driving to run in, either, but traffic jams won't help. Be easy on the brakes for a couple hundred k's.

IMO warming the motor by extended idling is a bad policy - the coolant comes to temp, but oil won't and parts won't come to operating temp and therefore clearance until you start driving.

Better to drive moderately for a few kms until the temp is normal then you can go for it.

[EL2]

My dealer even wrote in the service book 'Oil and filter changed as per customers request' at the 1500km service :p

Just coming up to 8800km now, runs like a dream.

Also not mentioned is whilst running in, not towing huge (heavy) loads for the first 1500km or so. No probs at all towing ya box trailer full of rubbish to the tip, but hooking up your 1 tonne fibreglass boat and all your gear and driving a few hundred km to and from your favourite fishing spot, not recommended.

[Dover]

thanks for the info guys but holden are stuffing me around, still havent got a date yet. worst holden ever (coupla reasons)... but good price.