Synthetic oil

[nvmysv8]

I have a VYII SV8 with 8,000km on the clock. How long should I wait before I change to Synthetic Oil. Also, which of the Synthetics should I use

Thanks
Jason

[lucas]

If you change the oil every 5,000km, it does not really matter what you use. I have been using ye olde Holden GF 10W30 (as per manual specs) thus far on this one. Used Mobil 1 on the R8 I had before. Now, I don't think it was worth it.

[cutter bob]

i agree, if u change it every 5000k's and dont take it to the track or anything like that the regular oil will be fine..... but on the over hand these thing do Deserve the best :D

[nvmysv8]

I was told to stick with mineral oil until 10,000km. Is this true or am I right to dump the mineral now and swap to a synthetic

Jason

[team illucid]

I was told to stick with mineral oil until 10,000km. Is this true or am I right to dump the mineral now and swap to a synthetic

Jason

Hi nvmysv8,

I was told you have to use mineral oil for at least 5000KM (or every time you have new piston rings installed) due to the need to bed in and the synthetic (mobil 1) wont allow it. I have used Mobil 1 for the last 7 years and have nothing but praise for it so I can't really comment on any other oil.

It is expensive at first but as it doesn't degrade like mineral oils and I am able to skip every 2nd oil change so it works out similar in the long run.

That is my belief and is what I have been doing for 7 years with no engine complaints at all.

[Drewie]

A lot of the dealers use good quality Semi-Synthetics like Mobil S, Shell Helix Plus, Valvoline etc. I was using Mobil 1 10w30 prior to my last rebuild since then the dealer has switched to Valvoline and it has Valvoline 10w40 SL rated oil in it and it seems fine, no usage at all....tossing up whether to just stay with this or go back to the Mobil 1. I think I am leaning towards staying with the Valvoline as I like the 10w40 and being the latest SL rating I can't see the benifit of the Mobil 1. I change ever 5000k as well.

[RAWCUS]

if you use synthetic oil in a gen3 or 5.0, it will burn oil regardless, the best oil to use is good old Penrite HPR 30........use this and change it every 5-10thou and you will never have a problem....synthetic oils viscosity is lower than a petrolium based oil, due to this it gets past the rings and into the combusion chamber far more frquently than the latter....

[team illucid]

if you use synthetic oil in a gen3 or 5.0, it will burn oil regardless, the best oil to use is good old Penrite HPR 30........use this and change it every 5-10thou and you will never have a problem....synthetic oils viscosity is lower than a petrolium based oil, due to this it gets past the rings and into the combusion chamber far more frquently than the latter....

Hi Rawcus,

this is not the case if the engine is run in properly .. my gen3 has 55000 km on it and I have just driven 1300km from adelaide and used no oil. My previous engine was a 160000Km 5.0L that ran mobil 1 from 5000km and never had oil burning issues ever.

Cheers

[fekason]

Have been using Mobil 1 for seven years also, with total satisfaction.

In my case, I used mineral oil to the first scheduled change (I did one non-standard at 1,500k) at six months (about 8,000k). After that, it has been only been synthetic oil for me.

Cost premium has been insignificant for the superior protection. While under warranty, I presented my oil to the dealer at servicing time and they deducted the $32 + GST from the service charges. I bought the oil at Kmart 15% off sales, so generally was paying in the $30's. Of course, now Mobil 1 has gone up when the dollar was low and the figures are a little different - Q? Now the dollar is back up, why hasn't the price come down?

Is it better? High performance cars specify synthetic oils. They give better protection on start up due to their better flow characteristics at low temperatures. They give better protection at high temperatures because they are less volatile. It is not unusual for the oil temperature with a synthetic oil to be 15 to 20 degrees F lower as well. Their resistance to shear is generally about 10 times that of mineral oils.

Some of us probably remember Brockie winning at Bathurst minus his oil cooler when they blanked it off when it was damaged. Good one Mobil 1.

It is true that Mobil 1 and other synthetics will get past the rings easier that the thicker mineral oils. However, that generally does not increase oil comsumption noticably as the less volatile synthetic oil has a far lower tendancy to burn off in such circumstances.

Where synthetic oils will cause a significant increase in oil comsumption is in the following two cases:

1. If there is an external leak, much more will get out.

2. If the valve guides are worn, oil consumption will rise significantly. This could be a problem introducing a synthetic oil to other than a relatively new engine.

In summary, reasons to go synthetic might be as follows:

1. Better wear protection, particularly at low temperatures or high/hot loadings.

2. Dramatically lower waste buildups (such as carbon deposits) in the engine.

3. A very small improvement in fuel consumption.

4. A desire to look after your engine as well as you can.

Why not?

1. Cost.

2. Not going to keep the car for a long time, so who cares.

3. Engine has a tendancy for oil leaks.

4. Engine is getting older, and valve guides might be worn.

5. Got shares in a mineral oil company.

I am just adding another new Commodore to my home. I intend to transition this one to synthetic oil at the 1500k service.

All the best.

[rocks-crewman]

I used to change the oil in my VRSS every 3 months with Penrite HPR 30, which is an excellent product. Works out cheaper and better in the long runs to use Mobil 1. Have been using it for about 7 years now in both the VR and the Crewman after she did 10 thou. In both cars, never a drop was burnt or lost. When I stripped the VR to install new cam,lifters and get the heads done, the inside of the donk was spotless, the original cam showed nil wear and the sump was as clean as a whistle.
For about $120 per year, it is the best engine insurance my dollar can buy. Tried that Castol Magnatec rubbish when it first came out, the VR used about 500ml in the first week. Needless to say I drained it and put in Mobil 1. Have used it ever since....

[SV8VY]

With the original question I say wait until about 10,000 before you use synthetic that's if you have broken it in properly.Don't forget to change the diff oil also as you will find new gearing needs it also.
I used Castrol 5 w 30 in Summer and I thought it was great.I tried Motul oil (10w 30 I think) this felt great also but very expensive.I have just changed to Castrol 10w 60 Synthetic and it "feels" like it has a little more power.I don't know if its the oil or cutting the inside lip of the air filter :) I also notice that the car has a deeper note to it if using a synthetic oil ....does anyone else notice this?

[BLACK 346]

I have just switched to mobil 1 5w50, only switched
because I picked up 10 litres for $80. The lifter noise
that I had with Castrol Magnatec is now gone. I have
done 1500 kays (800 of that at 160+ with a lot of
wot overtaking) and she hasn't used a drop. Oil
still looks like the day I put it in. I will be staying
with Mobil 1 ;)

[ShanghaiVZ]

I have just switched to mobil 1 5w50, only switched
because I picked up 10 litres for $80. The lifter noise
that I had with Castrol Magnatec is now gone. I have
done 1500 kays (800 of that at 160+ with a lot of
wot overtaking) and she hasn't used a drop. Oil
still looks like the day I put it in. I will be staying
with Mobil 1 ;)

Hmm interesting... I too have a slight lifter noise/rattle, have used the same oil since the 10k mark, Mobil super XHP, mineral based..(recommended for stop start driving which i do a lot of) havent had a prob yet, Since I've read the oil stories here with some synthetics, I'm too shit scared to go with synthetic in case it starts to use any.:eek: Can anyone convince me otherwise? Fekason has made some good points with this.

[BLACK 346]

Hmm interesting... I too have a slight lifter noise/rattle, have used the same oil since the 10k mark, Mobil super XHP, mineral based..(recommended for stop start driving which i do a lot of) havent had a prob yet, Since I've read the oil stories here with some synthetics, I'm too shit scared to go with synthetic in case it starts to use any.:eek: Can anyone convince me otherwise? Fekason has made some good points with this.

Yeah mate, I'm hearing you. I have watched mine like
a hawk since switching to Synthetic and will continue
to do so for a while yet. Hopefully it will stay the same.
I was ready to drop it and ditch it in the blink of an eye
if it started using.

[markone2]

I've used Mobile one 10W/30 fully Synthetic since new engine was installed aprox 9000Ks back......to date all appears well in the engine department... :) I do not begrudge spending the extra bucks as the engine is asked to work extra hard on the odd occasion :burnout:

[cheffy]

I Just pulled the rocker cover off two different MX5's last week same K's same age.... One used penrite mineral oil and showed signs of cam wear and was sludgy. Ours which has run on mobil 1 all its life from 50km.. showed no signs of wear at all..... Change it as soon as practical........

[Thumper]

You should change to synthetic on your next oil change. I have had 2 LS1's, both were changed at 10,000 kms to Shell Helix Ultra. 5W40. In retrospect, sometimes in summer, hot starts would give some lifter noise for 5 secs so I consider the 5W's too thin.
At no time did they burn oil, and were as clean as new on the inside (used an endoscope to check).
I will next try Shell 10W30 Helix Eco, which is a synthetic blend.
BTW, most so called synthetics are really blends, you will know that it's a true synthetic by the price - >$100 for 4 ltr. IMO, true synthetics are not worth worrying about for street performance work.
Go with either of the "synthetic" 10W30s, from Shell, Mobil, Castrol and change at 10,000 or every 6 months whichever comes first.

[KeenGolfer]

As far as I'm concerned, if you change the oil regularly like lucas said any oil will be fine. I've been using Holden GPF 10/30 mineral in a high powered car, cheap as chips, does the job. I'd rather spend my money on something else. Of course it's a different story maybe if you don't change oil so often.

[Thumper]

As far as I'm concerned, if you change the oil regularly like lucas said any oil will be fine. I've been using Holden GPF 10/30 mineral in a high powered car, cheap as chips, does the job. I'd rather spend my money on something else. Of course it's a different story maybe if you don't change oil so often.
Sorry, can't agree WRT using any oil as long as it's changed regularly.
Even city use, and low kms can do more harm to the engine in initial warmup if mineral oils are used. Synthetic oil seems to protect against this type of wear.
As for "I'd rather spend my money on something else" the only substance that provides a wear barrier in your engine is the Oil. Whats another $20-30 to get a better oil.

[KeenGolfer]

Sorry, can't agree WRT using any oil as long as it's changed regularly.
Even city use, and low kms can do more harm to the engine in initial warmup if mineral oils are used. Synthetic oil seems to protect against this type of wear.
As for "I'd rather spend my money on something else" the only substance that provides a wear barrier in your engine is the Oil. Whats another $20-30 to get a better oil.
Thumper, everyone is entitled to their opinion, and mine is just as I said - show me an engine that's been changed regularly (every 5000k) that's been damaged from using cheap oil (within the correct spec as per Holden GPF is). Bet you can't :)

[Speedy Gonzales]

Shouldnt matter whether synthetic or mineral as long as an appropriate grade is used

M1 is good but pricey, not worth changing every 5K but every 10-15K imo.

Magnatec, well priced and used this every 5K, oil came out black but still looked reasonably runny.

60 grade oil for the post above, bit overkill for the st unless you happen to be at the track revving at 5000rpm plus consistently, you will find the car is slower to pickup and fuel economy slightly worse.

Best grade for around town and a bit of drags, 10W-40

[VXSS]

As far as I'm concerned, if you change the oil regularly like lucas said any oil will be fine. I've been using Holden GPF 10/30 mineral in a high powered car, cheap as chips, does the job. I'd rather spend my money on something else. Of course it's a different story maybe if you don't change oil so often.

I use to use HOLDEN GF2 10/30W Mineral oil as the good book said from day one.

I had an engine rebuild because it used 3.5 ltrs of the stuff in 10,000 kays and I was changing at 5,000 intervals, never again.

Now using Mobil 1 5/50 after engine rebuild from 1,500 kays and not a drop of oil used and no lifter noise.

Engine rebuild at 30,000 kays now has close to 50,000 kays

I am just trying Mobil 1 10/30W to see for myself this theory re fuel economy better with the 30w over the 50w.

Also when I do my oil change it takes exactly 5 ltrs to fill up to the FULL Mark including new oil filter being changed, as the good book says.

Mobil 1 for me :D

[Rt!]

Im pretty sure Corvettes are delievered with Mobil1 from factory nowadays so I dunno whats the go with synth not allowing piston rings to bed in.

[KeenGolfer]

I use to use HOLDEN GF2 10/30W Mineral oil as the good book said from day one.

I had an engine rebuild because it used 3.5 ltrs of the stuff in 10,000 kays and I was changing at 5,000 intervals, never again.


You can't blame excessive consumption from the factory on your use of GF2 oil. It would have likely drank more if you were using Mobil 1 then. Obviously you got a bad engine from the factory, and when it was rebuilt they have fixed it. It wasn't an oil issue.

[fekason]

Lots of good discussion.

Personally, I would always plan to use synthetics like Mobil 1 in a new car. Only in the very unlikely event I ran into oil consumption problems would I even consider using anything else.

In a good condition second hand car, I would give synthetics a go if there were no signs of external leaks.

Go for it.

[PepeLePew]

You should change to synthetic on your next oil change. I have had 2 LS1's, both were changed at 10,000 kms to Shell Helix Ultra. 5W40. In retrospect, sometimes in summer, hot starts would give some lifter noise for 5 secs so I consider the 5W's too thin.
At no time did they burn oil, and were as clean as new on the inside (used an endoscope to check).
I will next try Shell 10W30 Helix Eco, which is a synthetic blend.
BTW, most so called synthetics are really blends, you will know that it's a true synthetic by the price - >$100 for 4 ltr. IMO, true synthetics are not worth worrying about for street performance work.
Go with either of the "synthetic" 10W30s, from Shell, Mobil, Castrol and change at 10,000 or every 6 months whichever comes first.

Lifter noise is totally pissing me off with Magnatec (as filled by my friendly dealers)....

Im in the mood for the switch and it MUST be Shell (courtesy of the handy dandy Shell card), but is Ultra the right choice or the Eco? Anyone used the Eco? I did run it in my last car but the LS1 does seem to be a picky bitch with oils. A few posts on here about it but time for a revisit on the subject me thinks...

Dont want to try it and find it hasnt quietened the thing....

[karter42]

I use Magnatec in the VX SS, change every 5k. Also add Nulon with every change. No lifter noise, infact the motor is quiter than the 5.0 litre VT SS I just sold (beleive it or not)

[BLACK 346]

I use Magnatec in the VX SS, change every 5k. Also add Nulon with every change. No lifter noise, infact the motor is quiter than the 5.0 litre VT SS I just sold (beleive it or not)

I also use the Nulon additive (E20 for performance
motors). Have been using their products for years in
all my previous vehicles. They also have the Red
coolant now which is compatible with the LS1 coolant.

[Blind0wl]

Was talking to Mark at PowerTorque the other day and he reckoned mineral based oil was the way to go. He had pulled different engines apart running synthetic and mineral and had more wear and tear on the cams with synthetic oil being used. Also had friends from the states reckon to never run the LS1's with synthetic. You can actually buy oil specifically for the LS1 in the states...and guess what...its mineral based.

On the other hand, Ive ran mobil 1 with no problems...but will probably change to a mineral based oil on the next service.

[Drewie]

When we keep referring to mineral oil on here are we talking about Semi-Synthetics like Mobil S, Shell Helix, Penrite, Valvoline etc, as most of the better brand oils are marketed as Semi Synthetic or Synthetic fortified, are there any straight mineral oils on the market?

[Thumper]

Lifter noise is totally pissing me off with Magnatec (as filled by my friendly dealers)....

Im in the mood for the switch and it MUST be Shell (courtesy of the handy dandy Shell card), but is Ultra the right choice or the Eco? Anyone used the Eco? I did run it in my last car but the LS1 does seem to be a picky bitch with oils. A few posts on here about it but time for a revisit on the subject me thinks...

Dont want to try it and find it hasnt quietened the thing....
I presume the Magnatec is 10W40? If it is I can't see why it should be noisy.
Holden specify a 10W30 for reasonable climates and even permit 20W50 in hotter areas. So b100dy confusing!
I asked the Shell Rep the other day for their detailed recommendation WRT LS1, and the Helix Eco was one of the oils they said NOT to use. Surprising. Not enough shear strength apparently. This oil was formulated for the ecotec V6 and Falcon AU I6.
They are recommending 10W40 Helix Plus, or Advance SX4 15W40 or full synthetic Advance VSX4 15W50. Not sure if I'm game to try. Might go the Helix Plus 10W40 for Summer and Helix Ultra 5W40 for Winter I think.

[PepeLePew]

The Magnatec is whatever Magnatec my friendly dealer puts in the thing, I never seen the container :)

Shell better attend to the lube selection on their website....Helix Ultra number one choice following by the Eco 10 for HSV donks, Eco 10 first choice for SS.

[HRT Stroker]

Be aware that the stuff you buy off the shelf is not always the same gear that dealers buy in bulk. That came straight form the horses (castrol) mouth.......

I always supply my oil to the mechanic....

[MARTY]

What oil is used in LS1's from the factory? My munro came with a valvoline sticker on the window when new.

[2inch]

I was an Contract Auditor for BP/Castrol where I visited every Castrol Distributor in WA-NT at least once a year for BP Compliance monitoring. A distributor in Darwin was into HQ racing big time - like spending $2K + on red motor heads and block top shaving to increase compression but still avoid scrutiny for head measuring.

These HQ racers use oil big time - they would consume just about the whole oil load in a race. This distributor told me he switched to Castrol synthetic for his HQ's about the time it first hit the market.

The motors didn't stop using oil but what did happen was the after race damage to the engines was zero compared to that when using expensive grade minerals. In some races the cars would finnish with no measurable remaining oil. After switching to Castrol, he told me he saved so much on engine rebuilds the switch to synthetic was almost mandatory for every racer in Darwin. Remember auto racing in Darwin is done in extremely hot conditions, and nothing deteriorates lube oil like overheating.

His opinion was that the synthetic stickability to metal surfaces left that thin lube film in place far longer than mineral oils and the synthetics resisted breakdown due to heat way past the ability of minerals to.

I have an '86 VL Berlina Turbo M5. It is dynoed at 209.65 RWHP - (about 233 EKW) I switched to Castrol synthetic for this about 12 months ago, immediately before running it in an HSV track day at Barbagello Raceway.

The first thing I noticed was the elimination of OHC and follower ticking when using the syns. The Turbo is a toy and gets used abut once every 6-8 weeks for a weekend blat. I haven't changed the oil since The HSV run and it stilll never ticks on starting.

I have just taken delivery ( 4 weeks) of my new VYSSII M6. I have only done 1086 km in it, but will most definitely switch to syn oil. I will have to talk to Castrol Tech reps to determine the right time for this. BTW - the SS is returning +20 litres/100 km in fuel at the moment. With ULP at 105 c/litre this week, I sure hope it improves after the run - in.

[lowriding]

I'm using the Castrol synthetic in the car at the moment - pretty impressed , the car seems smoother - don't know how "real" that is but it does seem it .Downside is cost ,called Race r synthetic or something - about the same price as Mobil1.

[Thumper]

I'm using the Castrol synthetic in the car at the moment - pretty impressed , the car seems smoother - don't know how "real" that is but it does seem it .Downside is cost ,called Race r synthetic or something - about the same price as Mobil1.
Referring to the Castrol website, I noted that the Castrol R Synthetic comes in 0W40, 5W30 or 10W60.
Which was used in yours? I am interested in how R Synthetic performs in an LS1 - IMHO none of these viscosities fit the recommended requirement, so this is why I'm interested - not saying don't use them at all.

[PepeLePew]

Hmmm had to cruise the Castrol site myself after that. Lube guide recommended 5w30 Synth R...

Any feedback on lifter noise lowriding?

[B-REX]

PepeLePew, Try 0W-40 synthetic oil. I have tried it in my LS1 and it has eliminated all lifter noise. Heavier oils appear to increase lifter noise in some engines. 15W-50 oils were the worst for lifter noise when cold and Penrite HPR10 the worst for lifter noise when hot. I am currently using Valvoline SynPower 0W-40.

[SV8VY]

Hmmm had to cruise the Castrol site myself after that. Lube guide recommended 5w30 Synth R...

Any feedback on lifter noise lowriding?I think the 0-40 is too thin for the LS1.I have used the 5w-40 and found it stayed clean for quite a while and seemed to go well.
I am using the 10w-60 at the moment and have noticed the car is a little quicker (I also cut the lip in the inside top of the air filter -could be this also)Another thing I noticed with the 10w-60 and Motul oil is the car produces a deeper note.(maybe my imagination)
With the lifter noise my car at start up has some noise for a few minutes then goes away no matter which oil is used.
I am reluctant to change the engine or investigate further as the car has done just over 30,000 k with not one used drop of oil and seems to go pretty hard.On the track with standard bolt ons (no stally)and maf tune it runs low 13s very consistently.

[B-REX]

Oil viscosity ratings show cold and hot viscosities. A 0W-40 grade oil has a 0 viscosity rating when cold but has a 40 viscosity rating when hot. This compares favorably to a 10W-30 oil as recommended by Holden which has a 10 rating when cold and only a 30 rating when hot. How can a 0W-40 oil be too thin at running temperature? :rolleyes:

[SV8VY]

Oil viscosity ratings show cold and hot viscosities. A 0W-40 grade oil has a 0 viscosity rating when cold but has a 40 viscosity rating when hot. This compares favorably to a 10W-30 oil as recommended by Holden which has a 10 rating when cold and only a 30 rating when hot. How can a 0W-40 oil be too thin at running temperature? :rolleyes:At start up temperature even the 5w rating is said to be too low....the 0w rating for the Ls1 wouldn't give the flow that is needed I think. After all isn't this when the car needs most lubricating?

[B-REX]

Thin oils flow easier. Therefore a thinner oil when cold will flow faster to all parts of the engine and the oil pump will pick it up easier. All I can say is that the thinner oil makes the valve train sound quiet, not loud mechanical clattering for 20 seconds when starting from cold. Makes me feel happier anyway.

[PepeLePew]

Thanks 250 Berlina. I'll give that a shot...

Always hesitant as its a nice expensive exercise trying a bunch of synth oils out in your own engine...

[fekason]

In the old days when we primarily had single grade oils, the lower the number the thiner the oil was as the lower number indicated that it met protection specifications at lower temperatures. As temperatures rose, it had to be thicker so that it would not be too thin as the oil rose to higher temperatures.

With a multi-grade oil, 0W40 means that it meets the particular protection/lubrication specifications anywhere from 'SAE 0' (which meant effective operation at very cold temperatures) to 'SAE 40' (which meant effective operation at very hot temperatures). We typically used SAE 30 oil through most of Australia.

Thus the question is one of the protection quality of the oil, and the temperature range over which it can function effectively.

You might notice that mineral oils are usually presented as meeting a particular specification (i.e. SJ). On the other hand, synthetics are almost always presented as exceeding the requirements. That is significant. Car manufacturers specify the minimum specification and the minimum multi-grade range.

Of course Mobil 1 is available as 0W40, 10W30, 5W50 and 15W50 as best as I can fathom.

Holden specifies SAE 10W30 oil that meets SJ, SL or ILSAC GF2 or GF3. Mobil 1 10W30 fully meets that requirement. Mobil 1 0W40 and 5W50 fully cover the range, but would have higher additive levels to achieve the wider multi-grade spread.

I would go with the Holden recommendation, and use Mobil 1 10W30.

[ShanghaiVZ]

Might give the M1 a go next change, and as discussed with the syn oil, every 10,000k's seem to be the way to go, way to expensive to do it at every 5,000k's (shouldn't have to with M1) and the LS1 takes more than 5 litres, means buying a 5litre and a 1litre..with a little in reserve.

[kryten2001]

How are you guys getting the oil into your donks?

I bought the lowest gradation of car ramps I could find, and they didn't even come CLOSE to getting under the wheels of my VY SS. (I'm sure it would have been OK on a std commo).

What are you guys doing to get around this (I don't wanna have to take it to a mechanic to do this)..

Also, I took a quick perve under the car looking for a sump plug - and noticed there's a huge big oil catchtray held in place by at least 2 large bolts. Is it only 2? Does this need to be removed? (I assume so)..

Also - is 5 litres enough?

Thanks -

[BLACK 346]

How are you guys getting the oil into your donks?

I bought the lowest gradation of car ramps I could find, and they didn't even come CLOSE to getting under the wheels of my VY SS. (I'm sure it would have been OK on a std commo).

What are you guys doing to get around this (I don't wanna have to take it to a mechanic to do this)..

Also, I took a quick perve under the car looking for a sump plug - and noticed there's a huge big oil catchtray held in place by at least 2 large bolts. Is it only 2? Does this need to be removed? (I assume so)..

Also - is 5 litres enough?

Thanks -

How big are you? My car is 30mm lower than FE2
and I can jam myself in far enough to get the back
bolts on the tray under the vehicle (Yes there are 4.
2 at the rear and 2 at the front). As for the sump
plug, thats easy to reach and on the RHS of the sump.
Oil filter is on the LHS facing down. Persist with it
mate, its not hard. If you are a large bloke ie over
90kg then you might be struggling, but at standard
ride height even over that size you should be ok :)

[lowriding]

Hmmm had to cruise the Castrol site myself after that. Lube guide recommended 5w30 Synth R...

Any feedback on lifter noise lowriding?

I used the 5W30 . Lifters sound quiet , no tapping.There is some small noise at (winter) cold startup - quickly goes away and she's right. As a side note i've always listened very carefully to my motors over the years and i don't think i've ever owned an engine that didnt have some kind of rattle when cold ,So i've never been concerned about it.Cold start piston slap is evident in practically every engine to some degree or another, if you train your ears. If your using 2 litres + of oil btw services i would worry though.

regards

[kryten2001]

How big are you? My car is 30mm lower than FE2
and I can jam myself in far enough to get the back
bolts on the tray under the vehicle (Yes there are 4.
2 at the rear and 2 at the front). As for the sump
plug, thats easy to reach and on the RHS of the sump.
Oil filter is on the LHS facing down. Persist with it
mate, its not hard. If you are a large bloke ie over
90kg then you might be struggling, but at standard
ride height even over that size you should be ok :)

Mate you must be one skinny dude!

There's no way, no how I could squeeze myself in the small cavity under the front bumper. It must be less than 15cm from the bottom of the bumper to the ground... Ok maybe 20... But you get the idea!

If the front bumper wasn't there, no sweat..... What's everybody else doing? (do I need to go on a diet? :confused: )

Thanks....

[BLACK 346]

Mate you must be one skinny dude!

There's no way, no how I could squeeze myself in the small cavity under the front bumper. It must be less than 15cm from the bottom of the bumper to the ground... Ok maybe 20... But you get the idea!

If the front bumper wasn't there, no sweat..... What's everybody else doing? (do I need to go on a diet? :confused: )

Thanks....

6 foot and about 87kg, but you dont really need to squeeze in there. Unless you have some really short
arms, you can just reach the rear bolts. The front and sump plug and filter are easy to reach. When replacing the plate, I simply balance it on the old oil drum (placed sideways of course) and once replace the bolts by hand before tightening them up. Unless yours is lowered you
should have even more room than me.

[VXSS]

How are you guys getting the oil into your donks?

I bought the lowest gradation of car ramps I could find, and they didn't even come CLOSE to getting under the wheels of my VY SS. (I'm sure it would have been OK on a std commo).

What are you guys doing to get around this (I don't wanna have to take it to a mechanic to do this)..

Also, I took a quick perve under the car looking for a sump plug - and noticed there's a huge big oil catchtray held in place by at least 2 large bolts. Is it only 2? Does this need to be removed? (I assume so)..

Also - is 5 litres enough?

Thanks -


I just use my factory car jack to jack one side up and then use my 2 1/2 jack to lift the front of the car as its to low to get the jack under it.

Then place my car stands underneath the front and lower it onto the stands.

Then lift the back end up under the diff with the big jack to its level as I have a slopped driveway, that why I can check the car through while the oil is draining out, also I drain it out when the car it hot.

My car takes exactly 5 litres to fill up to the full mark on the dip stick with a new oil filter :D

[BLACK 346]

I just use my factory car jack to jack one side up and then use my 2 1/2 jack to lift the front of the car as its to low to get the jack under it.

Then place my car stands underneath the front and lower it onto the stands.

Then lift the back end up under the diff with the big jack to its level as I have a slopped driveway, that why I can check the car through while the oil is draining out, also I drain it out when the car it hot.

My car takes exactly 5 litres to fill up to the full mark on the dip stick with a new oil filter :D

Now thats a whole new point to debate isn't it. Do you
drain the oil hot or cold. When hot it does seem to come
out easier, but how much is still up in the valve train etc.
When left overnight and drained cold it has had time for
the majority (not all) of the oil to drain back into the
sump. I have done it both ways, but tend to go for the
cold method these days. What are people thoughts on
this?

Edit...Mine takes about 5.3 litres with filter.

[Speedy Gonzales]

Drain when cold since most of thel oil is back in the sump and filter.

I jack up the passenger side since the sump plug is on the drivers side to tip out as much oil as possible.

Drain oil out of sump in evening, leave overnight, remove the oil filter in morning, put new 1 on, found this way, that little or no mess occurs when removing the filter :wave:

I just use whatever the packaged amount is, cbf buying another 5L just to add 0.3, 1 5L container always comes up spot on full with filter in place.

[VXSS]

Do you drain the oil hot or cold. When hot it does seem to come out easier, but how much is still up in the valve train etc.

Edit...Mine takes about 5.3 litres with filter.

I do mine HOT thats the idea it comes out faster and will be thinner so most of it will come out.

C this quote below from this site

http://www.chris-longhurst.com/carbibles/index.html?menu.html&engineoil_bible.html

" Start your engine and run it for a couple of minutes to get some heat into the oil
Leave the engine to stand for 5 or 10 minutes. When you started it, it heated the oil but it also filled the oilways. You want the oil to drain back to the sump.
Take the dipstick out or loosen it off and break the seal where it plugs into the engine dipstick tube. This prevents a vacuum building up behind the oil when you start to drain it".

They say to let it run for a few minutes so u don't burn yourself I'm guessing, I prefer it HOT, and by the time I jack it up on the stands it would take 10 - 15 mins allowing the engine to stand.

[HRT Stroker]

I used to pull the car up at the end of the day, park it. Set up for the oil change and let it drain whilst hot, but let it completely drain overnight. Leave a big DO NOT START note on the steering wheel!!

New washer, do the plug up, change the filter - new oil in and away you go, the best of both worlds..........

[PepeLePew]

Hmm we appear to have drifted off track and have two threads now on how to change oil!!!

Can I summarize what I've read above? Am I reading correctly in saying some ppl using Magnatec are experiencing valve train noise (I'm too scared to tie it down to lifters but you get the idea), and changing to a 0W40 or similar synth will help alleviate this?

I am talking constant chatter and not just startup noise....

Im heading out to buy some oil today and Im just trying for a last minute reality check and praying this bloody noise GOES AWAY :)

Im thinking either the Helix Ultra 5W40, the Castrol Syn R 0W40, or the Synpower 0W40. Depends what my guys round the corner stock in the end, but leaning towards the latter two given the above comments...

[VXSS]

Hmm we appear to have drifted off track and have two threads now on how to change oil!!!

Can I summarize what I've read above? Am I reading correctly in saying some ppl using Magnatec are experiencing valve train noise (I'm too scared to tie it down to lifters but you get the idea), and changing to a 0W40 or similar synth will help alleviate this?

I am talking constant chatter and not just startup noise....

Im heading out to buy some oil today and Im just trying for a last minute reality check and praying this bloody noise GOES AWAY :)

Im thinking either the Helix Ultra 5W40, the Castrol Syn R 0W40, or the Synpower 0W40. Depends what my guys round the corner stock in the end, but leaning towards the latter two given the above comments...

Have u tried any of the Mobil 1 Syn products????

I would only use a 5W or 10W, not game enough to try a 0W oil.

[Thumper]

Have u tried any of the Mobil 1 Syn products????

I would only use a 5W or 10W, not game enough to try a 0W oil.
Did a search on LS1tech.com to see what USA thinks is the best grade of oil for the LS1, seems that Mobil 1 0W40 gets the nod.
Like you though, I probably would go to 5W40 such as Shell Helix Ultra.

[GM-IRON]

Hmm we appear to have drifted off track and have two threads now on how to change oil!!!

Can I summarize what I've read above? Am I reading correctly in saying some ppl using Magnatec are experiencing valve train noise (I'm too scared to tie it down to lifters but you get the idea), and changing to a 0W40 or similar synth will help alleviate this?

I am talking constant chatter and not just startup noise....

Im heading out to buy some oil today and Im just trying for a last minute reality check and praying this bloody noise GOES AWAY :)

Im thinking either the Helix Ultra 5W40, the Castrol Syn R 0W40, or the Synpower 0W40. Depends what my guys round the corner stock in the end, but leaning towards the latter two given the above comments...

I started up by using Penzoil Mineral oil.
From there I went to Penrite semi-synthetic HPR10
I always had a bit of lifter noise but not much at all.
Last week I got a cam put in and they filled up with Penrite semi-synthetic 10w-40 I think.
I had been looking at changing to Mobil1 5w-50 fully synthetic, so the day after I dropped the oil again and in went just over 5L of the golden liquid. $60 per unit x 2. Ouch, it hurts.
I drive the car and lifter noise is very annoying now. Not sure if its the oil or my lifters that didn't like my cam.
Anyway, I went out today and got some Perite semi-synthetic 10w30.
I just changed it a fews minutes ago and after starting it. it still makes the noise.
I am going for a drive shortly to see if the oil circulates right through the engine and see what difference it makes.
Somehow, I just reckon that my lifters aren't playing happy.
The ute is only 24.000kms

Cheers,
GM-IRON

[vxberwag]

To do my oil changes in the old days I use too park my car out in the street with one side up on top of the kerb and then just slide up the gutter. With one side of the car up on the kerb provided just the right tilt for all the oil to drain out.

[PepeLePew]

Thought I'd give the Castrol Formula R 0W40 a shot. Lifter/valve train noise is definitely reduced over Magnatec. The car feels different to drive too, and I thought ppl were exaggerating! Better? Not sure. BUT...an annoying amount of noise is still there....of course I've only done 40 odd kms.

I do admit tho to never having owned a decently cammed car prior. Perhaps my expectation of noise is too low....(yeah the headers tick a bit too, but thats detectably different)

Someone mention the Nulon additive? What experiences do ppl have with that...?

[BLACK 346]

Thought I'd give the Castrol Formula R 0W40 a shot. Lifter/valve train noise is definitely reduced over Magnatec. The car feels different to drive too, and I thought ppl were exaggerating! Better? Not sure. BUT...an annoying amount of noise is still there....of course I've only done 40 odd kms.

I do admit tho to never having owned a decently cammed car prior. Perhaps my expectation of noise is too low....(yeah the headers tick a bit too, but thats detectably different)

Someone mention the Nulon additive? What experiences do ppl have with that...?

Yeah, I mentioned the Nulon E20. This is the performance additive.
It wasn't this that got rid of my lifter noise though, It was the Mobil 1
5w50. There is a Nulon additive for noisy lifters though. Go to
www.nulon.com.au for more info :)

[Drizzt]

Thought I'd give the Castrol Formula R 0W40 a shot. Lifter/valve train noise is definitely reduced over Magnatec. The car feels different to drive too, and I thought ppl were exaggerating! Better? Not sure. BUT...an annoying amount of noise is still there....of course I've only done 40 odd kms.

I do admit tho to never having owned a decently cammed car prior. Perhaps my expectation of noise is too low....(yeah the headers tick a bit too, but thats detectably different)

Someone mention the Nulon additive? What experiences do ppl have with that...?

I was using the same oil when I was still bolt ons and found it great and quiet with no rattles or nothing. This was 5000km after my rebuild for oil consumption. I drove it for 1500km and found no noise during the time and also had a few runs down the strip. Haven't drivin it since as it's been sitting on a hoist @ G&D. Depending on what G&D recommend for oil, I'll probably continue to use the Castrol Formula R 0W40.


Drizzt

[Mongy]

Oh well, I'll wade in with my 2c worth. I always use Mobil 1. When I brought my last new one I drove it home from the dealer and dropped the oil straight out of it and put Mobil 1 in. It now has 17,000klm on the clock and uses no oil and makes no unwanted noises. But what Drewbytes says is correct, if you use in spec oil and change it every 5,000klm it really does not matter what you use. The base oil is usually not the problem as far as breaking down is concerned, it is the additives that are the weak link. Most addititves these days are good for 10,000klm even in the cheapest oils. As a rule of thumb the dearer the oil the better quality the additives are. I change mine every 5,000klm by choice, I don't need to. Good oil is cheap insurance. Castrol have been trying to sell me oil for the work fleet where I work, so I asked the rep about a comparison between Mobil 1 and Castrol R and all he would say is Mobil 1 is "probably" the best on the market, he was not prepared to say Castrol was better.

[crs080]

What would anyone have any suggestions for an oil for stock 99 model ecotec?

I currently get the oil changed at the dealer and I think they are using magnatec 10W-30 in the car.

The car has fairly noticeable lifter noise which has gradually gotten worse after each of the two oil changes it has had since I bought it.

A slightly thicker oil, either a 15/40 or 15/50, combined with an additive was suggested to me as a possible remedy to the problem.


Im just wondering if anyone would have any suggestions or advice?

Cheers

CRS080

[Roddy]

What would anyone have any suggestions for an oil for stock 99 model ecotec?

I currently get the oil changed at the dealer and I think they are using magnatec 10W-30 in the car.

The car has fairly noticeable lifter noise which has gradually gotten worse after each of the two oil changes it has had since I bought it.

A slightly thicker oil, either a 15/40 or 15/50, combined with an additive was suggested to me as a possible remedy to the problem.


Im just wondering if anyone would have any suggestions or advice?

Cheers

CRS080


Valvoline Durablend semi synth comes in 15W-40, seems decent.