HELP: looking for some car trailer plans

[COBRALS1]

I am sick of hiring a trailer so I am looking for some car trailer plans so I can build one to take my Cobra to our club events and mabey some Drag meets
If any one can help me out that would be great.

Thanks
Craig

[VooDoo]

I dont know if your on the OCAU forums but a guy there (Specral) built one for a clubman for under $1k inc everything (rego the lot) but its for a slightly lighter car. Ill see if i can find the link later and PM you.

I dont believe he had plans as such but there are a heap of photo's of the build. Ebay has some cheap ones too ($2-3k NEW)

[Firebug]

I build the occasional custom trailer from time to time. If you are handy with a welder and have some sort of imagination you'll go ok. Best bet is to find a trailer that suits you and go around it with a camera and tape measure. You'll knock up your own plan in no time.

If the trailer is to be built for only for the Cobra, there is no need to build one as big and clumsy as most hire floats. Reduce the length between the front and rear crossmembers to roughly equal length of front to rear bumper. Compensate with a slightly longer draw bar for better road handling and easier reversing.

Floating bolt on spring/axle assembly will allow adjustment for proper weight distribution of car. Shop around and you'll find them already assembled. Hydraulic bump brakes will keep your costs down. Ramps should detatch and store under car if possible, or under trailer if room allows. Keep in mind the ideal points for securing the vehicle when building your frame.

Adopt some ideas you like from numerous trailers and knit them together to create your own.

Hope this helps...

Bill :D

[Ghia351]

http://www.dotars.gov.au/roads/publications/pdf/roads_vsb_01.pdf

The above link is the regulations for building a trailer, may be of some help.

[seldo]

Last time I built one we established basic dimensions for the bed of the trailer and then built the bogie on a couple of parallel angle frames that was adjustable and bolted to the basic bed. Then we loaded the intended car onto it and did some road-testing so that we could establish the wheelbase/tow-ball dimension that is so critical for good tow-ability. Having established that dimemsion we then bolted the wheel/suspension frame onto the bed of the trailer but did not make it permanent so that it could be later fine-tuned if it didn't tow well. Another important word of advice - use long springs that don't have a lot of length-change from hanger to axle-centre under deflection so that you don't get bump-steer from axle-deflection. ;) this may mean using over-lapping hanger-points. You can finalise mudguards, wiring and brake pipes last. And make it light!! that extra 300-400kg will make a huge difference to fuel economy, braking-ability, and passing acceleration. Do some calculations - what weight are you carrying, and therefore what axle- strength/(weight). springs, wheels, tyres etc do you NEED! If you end up with a trailer weighing 300kg vs one weighing 900kg, you will certainly notice the difference. Same goes for wheel size - smaller wheel (we used Mini wheels) gives less weight, less cost wheel/tyre, feasibility to carry a dedicated spare, and just as important - lower loading height which makes everything much easier... Also, since you will find that you inevitibly will consume a large number of trafficators and tail-light lenses make sure that you choose a design that is cheap and readily available, rather than just some that you had lying around off a Moskvitch... Hope that all helps. PM for more

[HSV_R8]

This guy is always on ebay. Don't know anything about him or the trailers though. Sells both plans and finished trailers.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Professional-Car-Flatbed-Trailer-Plans_W0QQitemZ130003109470QQihZ003QQcategoryZ1028 18QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem