HBDBerlinawagon
03-08-2006, 09:37 PM
Hi guys.
Havnt been back to LS1 for a bit and revisited the suspension threads.
Interesting to see you guys removed the strut bolts and lowered the assembly that way.
Well I finally tackled the job of putting super lows in the front of the wagon the other weekend and here are a few pointers that I can pass on,and this was doing the job without undoing those strut holder bolts!I did use a spring compressor though.Its also really handy to have access to a set that will allow you to connect a rattle air compressor gun to tighten/loosen the spring compressor tool.It makes a VERY VERY long tiring job without one!Otherwise use the method the other guys did and remove those strut housing bolts I suppose,its probably the easier method.
First of all that problem with the top Monroe allen bolt head on the shock shaft was RELATIVELY easily solved.I think they make these around half a mill oversize to either give a 10mm allen head socket a very tight fit or to stop people like us from mucking with the suspension!But the fix was to simply take a fine file to the head of the shaft and reduce the size to close on 10mm.Dont go too far though as it does need to be a tight fit as those lock nuts are on pretty tight and you need to hold that shaft pretty tightly whilst loosening those lock nuts.Theres one underneath that first rubber bush that holds the top of the shock shaft in place too.This one holds the main rubber bush in place that takes the force thats passed on from the shock to the shock tower.Once you have removed that top lock nut from the shock shaft it leaves the shaft free to retract back into the absorber
When you jack up the car make sure you use car stands under the chasis.Not only is it it just about fail-safe so you dont kill yourself from jack failure but you'll need the jack to lower and raise the strut housing in and out of the top bush.Support under the strut ball joint with a jack.
Second thing is to undo all those components that make the job easier to manipulate the strut into a position where you can remove the spring out from under the wheel arch.I undid the lower stabiliser bar bolt and detached the bar from the holding rod that is attached to the strut housing.Next was to unclip the antilock brake sensor from the back of the disc.Then undo the bracket holding the brake line to the inner wheel arch.This should give you enough movement in the strut once you have carried out the next step which is to compress the spring.
Its a good idea at this stage to cut the zip tie that holds the shock shaft protecting boot from the conical bush and bump stop.
I found you need to get the spring compressed to around 27 to 28 cms from the top of the spring to the bottom of the spring base to clear the top of the shock under the wheel guard.Note well;its not easy to get the spring compressor holding arms into position when the strut is in place under the shock tower,but it can be done.Also try to compress the two sides of the compressor as EVENLY as you can.You will need to put the compressor arms at least two spring coils apart to get enough effective spring compression to manipulate the strut from under the wheel arch.Because the shock shaft should have retracted when you took off the second shaft lock nut(push it down if needs be) you can remove the conical rubber bush prior to bringing the top of the strut out from under the wheel arch.It makes a world of difference as it gives you a few more crucial centimeters of clearance when tilting the strut from under the wheel arch.Have a close look at the bush and if its rubber is cracked or chunks missing it will need replacement if not being replaced already.Have a look at the foam/rubber bump stop on the shaft under the conical bush.It will probably be stuffed if the car has done upwards of 50,000ks.
When carrying out the final deed of tilting the strut from under the arch you will need to put a cloth over the top of the absorber shaft so it doesnt scratch the paint on the arch.Its a good idea to have someone put some pressure on somewhere in the vicinity of the top of the disc to force the top of the shock shaft under the wheel arch,dont forget to remove the jack when doing this!Its also a good idea to have a length of wood around 75cms,something like some 95mm structural pine is ideal to rest the strut on once you have it out from under the wheel arch.You can just lean it out and the ball joints MAY stop it from going further but dont count on it.If it goes too far it could be the end of your brake line!
Once this has been done,after some hefty swear words and cursing,I dont know of any job on a car where you dont,apart from maybe washing it,you should be free to remove the spring from the strut.Beware of that compressed spring though.Theres heaps of stored kinetic energy in that spring when compressed,so try not to leave it that way too long.Undo the compressor ASAP.
The replacement is basically the reverse of the above.I did give the strut housing spring holder base a clean.I also made sure the lower end of the spring mounted in the recess/stop provided in this base.I would think if you dont you might get some unusual spring settling clunks until it had done this itself.As long as it did do it itself!
If your assistant weighs enough you should be able to put enough pressure on the whole assembled strut housing,spring and bush when pushing it back under the wheel arch as the new springs are shorter than the originals.Dont forget a cloth over the top of the shock shaft/rubber bush.
Also dont forget to put that zip tie back on the shock shaft boot.Its important as its probably the one main cause of shock failures from dirt and dust getting into the shock shaft from buggered(cracked) protective boots.
Maybe I did it the difficult way,I usually do,but then this method doesnt require the undoing of those strut holding bolts which seemed to me not such a good idea to undo at the time!
Anyway good luck if you are tackling the job.If you havnt done it before and you arnt struggling for cash,take my advice and get someone to do it for you.They have all the gear and know the tricks.It shouldnt cost more than $150.Probably money well spent rather than cursing and swearing at your baby like I did for half a day and more!
HBDB.
Havnt been back to LS1 for a bit and revisited the suspension threads.
Interesting to see you guys removed the strut bolts and lowered the assembly that way.
Well I finally tackled the job of putting super lows in the front of the wagon the other weekend and here are a few pointers that I can pass on,and this was doing the job without undoing those strut holder bolts!I did use a spring compressor though.Its also really handy to have access to a set that will allow you to connect a rattle air compressor gun to tighten/loosen the spring compressor tool.It makes a VERY VERY long tiring job without one!Otherwise use the method the other guys did and remove those strut housing bolts I suppose,its probably the easier method.
First of all that problem with the top Monroe allen bolt head on the shock shaft was RELATIVELY easily solved.I think they make these around half a mill oversize to either give a 10mm allen head socket a very tight fit or to stop people like us from mucking with the suspension!But the fix was to simply take a fine file to the head of the shaft and reduce the size to close on 10mm.Dont go too far though as it does need to be a tight fit as those lock nuts are on pretty tight and you need to hold that shaft pretty tightly whilst loosening those lock nuts.Theres one underneath that first rubber bush that holds the top of the shock shaft in place too.This one holds the main rubber bush in place that takes the force thats passed on from the shock to the shock tower.Once you have removed that top lock nut from the shock shaft it leaves the shaft free to retract back into the absorber
When you jack up the car make sure you use car stands under the chasis.Not only is it it just about fail-safe so you dont kill yourself from jack failure but you'll need the jack to lower and raise the strut housing in and out of the top bush.Support under the strut ball joint with a jack.
Second thing is to undo all those components that make the job easier to manipulate the strut into a position where you can remove the spring out from under the wheel arch.I undid the lower stabiliser bar bolt and detached the bar from the holding rod that is attached to the strut housing.Next was to unclip the antilock brake sensor from the back of the disc.Then undo the bracket holding the brake line to the inner wheel arch.This should give you enough movement in the strut once you have carried out the next step which is to compress the spring.
Its a good idea at this stage to cut the zip tie that holds the shock shaft protecting boot from the conical bush and bump stop.
I found you need to get the spring compressed to around 27 to 28 cms from the top of the spring to the bottom of the spring base to clear the top of the shock under the wheel guard.Note well;its not easy to get the spring compressor holding arms into position when the strut is in place under the shock tower,but it can be done.Also try to compress the two sides of the compressor as EVENLY as you can.You will need to put the compressor arms at least two spring coils apart to get enough effective spring compression to manipulate the strut from under the wheel arch.Because the shock shaft should have retracted when you took off the second shaft lock nut(push it down if needs be) you can remove the conical rubber bush prior to bringing the top of the strut out from under the wheel arch.It makes a world of difference as it gives you a few more crucial centimeters of clearance when tilting the strut from under the wheel arch.Have a close look at the bush and if its rubber is cracked or chunks missing it will need replacement if not being replaced already.Have a look at the foam/rubber bump stop on the shaft under the conical bush.It will probably be stuffed if the car has done upwards of 50,000ks.
When carrying out the final deed of tilting the strut from under the arch you will need to put a cloth over the top of the absorber shaft so it doesnt scratch the paint on the arch.Its a good idea to have someone put some pressure on somewhere in the vicinity of the top of the disc to force the top of the shock shaft under the wheel arch,dont forget to remove the jack when doing this!Its also a good idea to have a length of wood around 75cms,something like some 95mm structural pine is ideal to rest the strut on once you have it out from under the wheel arch.You can just lean it out and the ball joints MAY stop it from going further but dont count on it.If it goes too far it could be the end of your brake line!
Once this has been done,after some hefty swear words and cursing,I dont know of any job on a car where you dont,apart from maybe washing it,you should be free to remove the spring from the strut.Beware of that compressed spring though.Theres heaps of stored kinetic energy in that spring when compressed,so try not to leave it that way too long.Undo the compressor ASAP.
The replacement is basically the reverse of the above.I did give the strut housing spring holder base a clean.I also made sure the lower end of the spring mounted in the recess/stop provided in this base.I would think if you dont you might get some unusual spring settling clunks until it had done this itself.As long as it did do it itself!
If your assistant weighs enough you should be able to put enough pressure on the whole assembled strut housing,spring and bush when pushing it back under the wheel arch as the new springs are shorter than the originals.Dont forget a cloth over the top of the shock shaft/rubber bush.
Also dont forget to put that zip tie back on the shock shaft boot.Its important as its probably the one main cause of shock failures from dirt and dust getting into the shock shaft from buggered(cracked) protective boots.
Maybe I did it the difficult way,I usually do,but then this method doesnt require the undoing of those strut holding bolts which seemed to me not such a good idea to undo at the time!
Anyway good luck if you are tackling the job.If you havnt done it before and you arnt struggling for cash,take my advice and get someone to do it for you.They have all the gear and know the tricks.It shouldnt cost more than $150.Probably money well spent rather than cursing and swearing at your baby like I did for half a day and more!
HBDB.