running new motor in, what to do?

[UCNUNV]

okay just got a new LS1 installed in the ute and the shop that did the work have said drive really soft et cetera for 1000kms because its got to be run in with some oil, then after that drop the oil and use a different oil and keep graduating like that, what im wondering is, is this needed, its a crate motor from Holden so I figure its the same as buying a new car which to the best of my knowledge does not require the same proceedures i have been recomended! The guys that did the work really know they're stuff so I dont doubt their opinion but wondered if the whole running in ordeal is just a way to get to me come back in 1000km for more service work?

[Boom]

Holden no longer specify a motor run in period that I can find for the VE. They do however say take it easy on the drive train. Given that I would drive it normally, maybe avoiding constant rpm for prolonged periods.

[SSBarney]

General consensus is that LS1's dont like to be nursed when running in, give it plenty of varied revs, and a healthy dose of WOT. Changing oil regularily isnt going to do any harm, but i dout its necessary.

[Hammer]

when mark at pt did mine told me not to labour it in any gear and find some hills to go up to get it working. and also some nice pedal movement from idle to 4,000 not WOT tho just steady increase then back off and do it again ....

[CalaisRider]

I'm no expert in this area but mine is a week old and I've given it a hammering from time to time and also a fair bit sedate city stop/start drive which naturally varies the rev range.

I've been told that they are tough motors and many do not get their best until 30 -50,000 K. When you consider how hard little buz boxes have to work just to maintain normal drive conditions, I see nothing wrong with giving a 6 litre a bit of stick - curiosity gets the better of me anyway!!

[UCNUNV]

mmm, it seems you guys see this how I see it, but apparently the oil that has been put in it is used for running a motor in (either thinner or thicker) than what would usually be used and this is the reason behind the restrictions i have been given... after some driving tho the valvetrain seems to have a rattle when shifting after 4000rpm or there abouts, like the oil is too thin and not lubricating the top end enough, to be honest this worries me as the sound it makes now is the same sound it made to begin with that wasnt able to be diagnosed and resulted in a new crate motor... :cussing: :cussing: :cussing:

[jona]

u may have used a non synthetic oil to help everything bed in but even if it is the normal synthetic oil that u will use everyday it is good practice to drop the oil at 1000kms on a new engine. As far as running in goes......from what ive been told....drive it like u stole it:P

[Brockfan05]

In relation to the run in oil changes - has anyone here used those engine cleaning products to completely flush the old oil out of the engine?? The one I'm talking about is on the Mainlube maint. section of this forum.

[VU_SS_UTE]

Running In (http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm)

[Dacious]

Yeah, a guy in the US has a website that says he builds race engines - that makes him an authority on running in street cars using WOT. Is he going to pay when the engine croaks?

Your engine builder should have given you instructions - he is the best person to know what conditions his warranty covers. If he finds you've been bouncing off the limiter or your rear wheelwells are full of rubber shreds, he may deem that outside those conditions.

If you care about the engine lasting a reasonable time, the rules are quite simple.

Drive normally, unless you drive like The Stig setting a hot lap, or like you're trying to qualify for a Drift Grand Prix Final. Running in a V8, it will still be quicker and faster than 90% of the cars on the road. Doesn't mean you can't take off briskly, but no sustained spinning of the bags or flatshifting.

Don't use cruise control for the first 1,000km.

Don't lug the engine in a high gear at low engine speed (i.e. <1500rpm in any gear above fourth in a manual). Change down on hills - keep the engine spinning around 2,000 revs as a minimum. Large throttle openings at low engine speeds are also to be avoided, but spinning the engine on medium-large throttle is not.

Don't use WOT, or redline the engine until it frees up. Not to say you can't spin it smartly, but a tight engine will be reluctant to spin too hard, too soon.

Drive like this for a couple weeks, drop the oil at 1,000km, all is good.

[UCNUNV]

the engine wasnt built by the guys (sponsor on this forum) its just a holden crate motor they installed, so warrenty is from holden... i have clocked up 250km but havent had work the last few days so once driving to and from 1000kms shouldnt be far away...

[VU_SS_UTE]

Yeah, a guy in the US has a website that says he builds race engines - that makes him an authority on running in street cars using WOT. Is he going to pay when the engine croaks?


Im far from a mechanic so its not my place to say, but what he says makes sense, and after seeing a few different bike motors pulled apart, its seems to work too.

[The Warden]

1. Nothing over 3000rpm for the first ten minutes 'til oil (not the water the oil) has had a chance to warm thru. - this is for the life of the car, not just run in.
2. No cruise control (static revs) for the first 1,500-2,000km.
3. Vary the revs as best possible, incresing the higher numbers progressively
4. Load it up via a few up hills etc...
5. Drive it like you intend to over the long term. IE: Don't baby it at run in if you are going to cane it after a few 1000k's.
6. Change oil and filter within the first 2,000km.

I babied my first LS1 = 2 rebuilds in first 18000km.
Second one had 250km on the clock from new and covered 138km in 1hr 2minutes (you do the math) on a 500km delivery trip home = she was a beauty....
Current LS2 was "run in" as the local dealers' demo via the HSV owners club, it also goes like a cut cat.

All the above is my opinion only.

Gordie

[UCNUNV]

thanks Warden thats a big help

another thing is my thermo fans seem to be coming on very soon after the car starts, i drove from my house to pick a mate up this afternoon and the drive is litually 3mins and maybe 2km at most, anyway by the time i was at his house engine temp was just below half, maybe just a smidge past 1/3 and the fans where going nuts... is this regular, the ambient temp is about 28ish so i mean its pretty warm, but i just found getting that hot that fast a bit weird, driving after that it doesnt get any hotter, just sits below half with fans buzzing, this was also the case driving it at night last weekend when it was much cooler!

[JHamilton]

I think your mechanic is correct. Run her easy for 1000-1500kms, change the oil, and let her rip! The harder you break her in, the faster she'll be. :driving:

[KeenGolfer]

By the time you change the oil at 1000 kms it's too late. It needs to be run in properly from the get-go, it doesn't take long to bed everything in. My crate LS2 was on the dyno as soon as it was in the car and warmed up getting tuned.

[Dacious]

Im far from a mechanic so its not my place to say, but what he says makes sense, and after seeing a few different bike motors pulled apart, its seems to work too.

What he says is his opinion based on his experience and flies contrary to what many reputable engine builders recommend - including Peter Doyle, who's Matt Mladin's crew chief in the states and did run Team Kawasaki in Oz when they ran fullhouse 15,000rpm 750s. They build motors 'loose' to reduce run-in times, blueprint to finer tolerances (still loose) and rev them harder than anyone, but still instruct riders to short shift off the limiter and not use absolute full throttle until the bikes' done 20-30 laps or a couple hundred k's, because it's critical to ringseal on a motor running 14:1 compression. Not for engine longevity, as they also rebuild their motors every 1,000km because they can, but for the last 10-20 hp.

I've also seen a new CBR600 out of the box fouling plugs and misfiring and need a hone and new rings after two race meetings. The rings were untempered (lost their spring and seal) and the bores glazed from revving too hard, too soon. The guy couldn't be bothered running in on the road. And not running in a GP motor you're asking for the mother of all seizes if you give it WOT without at least 50km of 8/10ths.

Running in properly, or poorly, will not prevent a badly assembled or faulty engine from crapping out, like the engines which suffered LS1-itis which were QC issues. But it will give a good motor a strong chance at a long trouble-free life.

The cam face you gall, the piston you score today will be the warranty repair rattle of tomorrow.

[UCNUNV]

any ideas about the temp issues tho?

[The Warden]

any ideas about the temp issues tho?

Hummmm, The temp gauge description sounds reasonably close to a typical LS1, operating between 1/4 and 1/2, could be a smidge high.

Can't really comment on the fans, given that Wellington NZ rarely sees 28 degrees. (rarely sees 20 degrees for that matter!)

Go for a drive at highway speed, are they running all the time then? I would not expect them to be running at all in that driving condition. Check the radiator for bugs or other such obstructions.

Good Luck
Gordie

[CarlFST60L]

Agree with just about everything, personally, i have always given the car plenty of warm up time (easy to see on the R8 with Engine Oil Temp Display), wait till its 110C before WOT, change oil after first 1000km

1:15's around wakefeild for a day after that starting with 999Km on the clock :dance:

Similar thing done with my LS1, it pulled 211Kwrw after it was run in stock as a rock, never ever missed a single beat :bounce: