best spark plugs and leads

[clubbyr8vx]

hey there all


well my car is slowly creeping towards its 80K service and i know they change the plugs over so im wondering what are the best plugs to replace them with as i dont just want the standard ones that holden recommend and also plugs wise what do you guys recommend

thanks heaps

cheerz

[Drewie]

What's wrong with the standard ones if they have lasted 80,000km?

[DaveHAT]

Leads are leads but many workshops will recommend using the OEM leads supplied by Holden. Good enough for turbo/blown cars etc.

Plugs are dependent on what's done to your car. 2 types that are frequently recommended are:

NGK TR6 (slightly colder plug)
NGK BPR6EF

Both of these willl be more than adequate for the job.

[XLR8 V8]

What's wrong with the standard ones if they have lasted 80,000km?


If you're going to change them anyway, it never hurts to see if there's something better :yup:

A search of the forums will reveal a few discussions on it already though

[Oztrack Tuning]

Research BRISK LGS if you want to try something different. GOR-15LGS


MSD leads are supposed to be the best in the market.

[Alex(AUS)]

Try Magnecor KV85 leads.

Alex

[iamhappy46]

BPR6EF-15's are cheap and effective but require regular replacement(15,000Km's)

[chilly]

BPR6EF-15's are cheap and effective but require regular replacement(15,000Km's)

good choice @ $25 for the 6

i have run the V6 supercharged version of that plug for the last 2 years

[Drewie]

With the alloy heads is there any issues getting out the original plugs that have been in there for 80,000km and maybe 4 or 5 years? You wouldn't want to stuff up a thread in the alloy head. Might also be a consideration when chosing a plug as well, maybe a long life plug might be the go rather than changing them every year has anyone had any problems getting them out?
I was just thinking of how alloy and steel sometimes react on one another.

[chilly]

With the alloy heads is there any issues getting out the original plugs that have been in there for 80,000km and maybe 4 or 5 years? You wouldn't want to stuff up a thread in the alloy head. Might also be a consideration when chosing a plug as well, maybe a long life plug might be the go rather than changing them every year has anyone had any problems getting them out?
I was just thinking of how alloy and steel sometimes react on one another.

quite right mate
but thats why there is a lube to drop on the threads when installing [plugs]
also makes it easier to remove [plugs]

[Thunder]

Magnecor race leads $180/set and NGK Iridium plugs (100,000km life) $18 each.

Cheers
Greg

[BLACK 346]

As chilly says, a bit of lube on the threads and they come out easy.
Once you have done a couple it is a 30 minute job at most.
Always change my plugs when the motor is stone cold also.
Running the NGK Super six plugs here as well, change them
every 10k for peace of mind.

[Thunder]

If you change the plugs every 10,000km @ $25/set = $250 for 100,000km.
Each time you remove the leads you also risk damage to them, especially as they get older.

1 set of Iridiums = $144 and it lasts for 100,000km.
Some people do not keep their car that long, so it means they would only ever change the plugs once.

If you pay a mechanic to change them each time = more $$$$

Each to his own, but I use Iridiums

Cheers
Greg

[BLACK 346]

If you change the plugs every 10,000km @ $25/set = $250 for 100,000km.
Each time you remove the leads you also risk damage to them, especially as they get older.

1 set of Iridiums = $144 and it lasts for 100,000km.
Some people do not keep their car that long, so it means they would only ever change the plugs once.

If you pay a mechanic to change them each time = more $$$$

Each to his own, but I use Iridiums

Cheers
Greg

I just cant get used to the idea of leaving plugs in for 100k,
what do they look like after 100K Greg? And are they a bitch
to get out after being in that long? Also, my car does about
5k a year, that means those plugs would last me 20 years lol.

[chilly]

If you change the plugs every 10,000km @ $25/set = $250 for 100,000km.
Each time you remove the leads you also risk damage to them, especially as they get older.

1 set of Iridiums = $144 and it lasts for 100,000km.
Some people do not keep their car that long, so it means they would only ever change the plugs once.

If you pay a mechanic to change them each time = more $$$$

Each to his own, but I use Iridiums

Cheers
Greg

spot on mate

now lets do the oil change at 3000 k's...or 5000 k's x 100,000 = $$$$

but i for one am happy doing this with the extra cost as it gives me peace of mind
my car has done 150,000 k's with the same auto...
last 2,1/2 years with head/cam etc
but i change the fluid every 15-20,000 k's....
have i gained anything....i think i have..:wave:

[Thunder]

I'll let you know when I get to 100,000km (if I still have the car) !!!

If you put the nickel anti sieze on the threads they are fine.
The Iridiums have a needle point electrode which self cleans and eventually wears down with age.

They would be no different to the standard platinums that are supposed to be good for 80,000km. The standard plugs have a platinum ball fused to the end of the electrode, whereas the NGK Iridiums are laser welded on.

We have seen standard plugs that have lost the platinum ball after 10,000km.

I suppose it is like buying a good brand of drill bit or a cheap Asian one. They both drill holes in steel, but the Asian one you have to chuck out after 5 holes and the good one just keeps on cutting.


Cheers
Greg

[BLACK 346]

I'll let you know when I get to 100,000km (if I still have the car) !!!

If you put the nickel anti sieze on the threads they are fine.
The Iridiums have a needle point electrode which self cleans and eventually wears down with age.

They would be no different to the standard platinums that are supposed to be good for 80,000km. The standard plugs have a platinum ball fused to the end of the electrode, whereas the NGK Iridiums are laser welded on.

We have seen standard plugs that have lost the platinum ball after 10,000km.

I suppose it is like buying a good brand of drill bit or a cheap Asian one. They both drill holes in steel, but the Asian one you have to chuck out after 5 holes and the good one just keeps on cutting.


Cheers
Greg

Thanks for the explanation Greg. Your wrong about the asian drill
bits though, the one I was using yesterday wouldn't drill through
butter :banghead:

[Oztrack Tuning]

I think the Iridiums are good - but when i changed my heads after they were in for 35000km all the end tips were missing off them and the gaps were 1.7 or more mm. The car wouldnt run with the extra compression without a miss - although it seemed fine with the stock heads and with my current cam and rockers.

Since then i have change the Brisk which claims the gain of an indexed plug (a few more hp) but they are expensive and last maybe 30000km at around $100 a set.

On the comparison device at Rocket it shows the MSD leads have almost zero resistance and i have had them on a while and they dont cause any radio interference.

[iamhappy46]

NGK recommend changing Iridium spark plugs after around 60,000Km's. When you consider the price difference between Platinum and Iridium, the Iridium gets 75% of the 'claimed' Platinum life without the hassles of Platinum electrodes failing. Iridium also has a higher arc over voltage for a bigger fireball and hence, more power and better exhaust emissions.

Copper plugs do have a slightly higher arc over voltage(and hence more power) over Iridium but costs more once parts and labour is taken into account.

Also, never try to re-gap an Iridium spark plug.

[Winbasic]

I've just put a set of Top Gun TG8071 leads on with a set of NGK "PZTR5A-15 7862" Laser Platinum spark plugs in after 94,000ks. I was noticing a slightly rough idle previously and after installation of these new bits its smooth as silk.

The original Denso plugs actually weren't too bad - I took one with me to Repco and said to the guy that the gap looked a little large but he said that's normal - 1.5 to 1.7mm gap.

I was surprised actually - I thought after 94,000ks they'd be flogged but the Iridiums I put in my DFI Mercury Outboard looked more flogged after 3 months than these do after 5.5 years!

[iamhappy46]

A spark plug is designed to deteriorate the harder it is used. Obviously, a Mercury outboard will chew through plugs very fast as they are an extremely hi-demand ignition system engine, hence why the Mercury ign coils are deemed to be some of the best in the world.

Platinum and Iridium plugs last so long because they are designed not to deteriorate as fast as copper plugs. The Mercury outboard would be lucky to get a few hours of use before burning the tips off them.

The platinums last a long time due to them not 'looking' like the need to be changed as there is minimal deterioration of the electrode, which is why the stock plugs looked so 'clean' but if you looked at them, the continued use actually means that metal is sacrificed which increases the spark plug gap the longer they are used, which results in the mild misfire you experienced.

Either way, good to hear your new plugs are making a difference :)

[Winbasic]

A spark plug is designed to deteriorate the harder it is used. Obviously, a Mercury outboard will chew through plugs very fast as they are an extremely hi-demand ignition system engine, hence why the Mercury ign coils are deemed to be some of the best in the world.

Platinum and Iridium plugs last so long because they are designed not to deteriorate as fast as copper plugs. The Mercury outboard would be lucky to get a few hours of use before burning the tips off them.



Even though the plugs I have in the Mercury are Iridiums, are the tips still likely to burn off them quickly? I was contemplating changing them every season or 100 running hours but the service guys said I'd get years out of them. Seeing how oiled up they get, I'm dubious whereas given the state of the ones out of the LS1 after that many K's, its only now they were starting to get tired.

[evanism]

buds, I am still more than confused here.

I just dropped $20 a plug on the NGK Laser Platinum PZTR5A-15's. Multiply by 8 and its $160.....

Threads here say they are shit (a-la 10k k's before death) and others recon they are good.

As a VX HSV owner (255kw jobbie) I don't want to put any old crap in my engine, especially since the ORIGINAL plugs gave me 102,000 km's. I'm not saying the originals are good, just that they are not CRAP, they lasted (not out yet)

I'm a bit sick to death of buying things that some other dude after me says "maaate, buy the XYZ's cos they are The Business....."

Opinions aside, WTF should I fit to a slightly warmed engine????

Lads, make me proud, cheap? NGK platinums? or the goddam Iridiums???

Ev

[taztassio]

bosch 10mm leads are lowest resistance,

and for a blown app, u want a 7 heat range ngk.

and dont both with iridium, go the copper and just change regularly

[VW Golf R32]

Are Bosch spark plugs any good? I hear good reports about their platinum version.

[iamhappy46]

Still using my NGK Iridiums BPR6EIX-15 without a fault. 12.5psi boost with stock plug 1.5mm gap and still going strong :D

[macca_779]

buds, I am still more than confused here.

I just dropped $20 a plug on the NGK Laser Platinum PZTR5A-15's. Multiply by 8 and its $160.....

Threads here say they are shit (a-la 10k k's before death) and others recon they are good.

As a VX HSV owner (255kw jobbie) I don't want to put any old crap in my engine, especially since the ORIGINAL plugs gave me 102,000 km's. I'm not saying the originals are good, just that they are not CRAP, they lasted (not out yet)

I'm a bit sick to death of buying things that some other dude after me says "maaate, buy the XYZ's cos they are The Business....."

Opinions aside, WTF should I fit to a slightly warmed engine????

Lads, make me proud, cheap? NGK platinums? or the goddam Iridiums???

Ev

Mate first things first.. Your HSV engine is nothing special. Its the same thing as any other Holden one... I have one too BTW.

Now for plugs. Take the views that the super expensive platinum or irridum plugs make any extra power with a grain of salt.
I change my plugs every 15000k's with run of the mill NGK BPR6EF-15's. Yep they won't last as long, but big deal. Its $25 for a set and 30min of your time. Plus you know that you will always have fresh plugs. I know I'd rather be running 5000k old STD Plugs than 90000k old Platinums.

For Leads. GM OEM is very good. Low resistance, quite robust, designed for the engine and also fit the factory shields that are their for a reason unlike what alot of people believe.
I bought a set a couple of years ago when I thought my leads were on their way out but were actually fine. As it turned out I got the newer Red GM Leads (VY+) and according to the box they have a lifetime Delco Warranty.

The after market ones are fine too, but if the originals ain't stuffed.. Save your cash.

[evanism]

Thanks Macca_779.

Agreed that my 255 is nothing special yet. I've had it for ever, the first owner has it for 3 months and I bought it with a whopping discount (it was still freaking new!).

Other than doing basics like fluids it hasn't been to the "shop" yet... almost have permission from the boss for a bit of an upgrade.

I do all my own maintenance and repairs.

My Q re plugs was from the perspective that I felt the originals were "OK"...i.e. nothing special. They worked as plugs should, never regapped or opened themselves up, colour is perfect, no electrical erosion......The way people go on about the iridiums and platinums make it seem like I should see all sorts of magical experiences by using them.

If, as Macca_779 points out, that logically, a $25 set every 15k is psychologically better than a $160 set lasting 80-100k, then why are not more people doing this (or are they?). His argument carries a weight by simplicity of logic, whereas all the other Marketing Fluff from other manufacturers seems all a bit unproven... or is this a case of laziness (not wanting to be under the bonnet every 6 months on top of oil changes) or is it marketing fluff?

Anyone else with a dissenting vote? What do the boys from Sams and Marrano's etc use/recommend?

[blacksv869]

personally, don't use bosh super 4 iridium/platinum combo......they suck from my experience....15k and developed a annoying "miss" at idle:vpo:, changed plugs all good

iridium are good, but im going to copper center next time.....100k just seems to long, but if it works

[r8ls1]

Only leads i have found to fit as well as stock ones are the MSD red 8.5mm super conductor leads. a lot less resistance than the standard leads and tougher.

plugs, only performance NGK TR5 grooved (from the USA). no platinum tips falling off.

I would get the leads and plugs from a speed shop on ls1tech.com, or ebay, so you know they are the genuine USA items.

Some people here try selling NGK grooved plugs as TR5's when they are not TR5's, they are shorter and dont enter the combustion chamber deep enough. so they make shit power. They have to be imported from the US. NGK Australia doesnt import or sell real TR5's in OZ. The TR5's and TR6's are specially made in the US for the LS1/2 motors and are exact length of the standard holden platinums. BPR6EF-15's are shorter and not for the LS1, they work, but make a good bit less power.

[macca_779]

Only leads i have found to fit as well as stock ones are the MSD red 8.5mm super conductor leads. a lot less resistance than the standard leads and tougher.

plugs, only performance NGK TR5 grooved (from the USA). no platinum tips falling off.

I would get the leads and plugs from a speed shop on ls1tech.com, or ebay, so you know they are the genuine USA items.

Some people here try selling NGK grooved plugs as TR5's when they are not TR5's, they are shorter and dont enter the combustion chamber deep enough. so they make shit power. They have to be imported from the US. NGK Australia doesnt import or sell real TR5's in OZ. The TR5's and TR6's are specially made in the US for the LS1/2 motors and are exact length of the standard holden platinums. BPR6EF-15's are shorter and not for the LS1, they work, but make a good bit less power.

Bullshit BPR6EF's aren't meant for LS1's.. Who told you that rubbish. Hell GM seems to think they suit LS1's.. But what would they know. :soap:
The -15 means a 1.5mm gap too. Which as you can see below is what is recommended.


http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i39/macca_779/Random%20Crap/100_0579.jpg

[iamhappy46]

EDIT: I was wrong. BPR6EFS is 6mm shorter than NGK recommened plug.

[macca_779]

BPR6EIX-15 are the same length as the factory fitted spark plugs. Compared them side by side when I installed them, also checked with the NGK recommended PZTR5A(or whatever it is) spark plug.

Yep PZTR5A-15 is the rip off Platinum one that NGK recommends.

[iamhappy46]

PZTR5A is a the right length as the BPR6EFS-15 and BPR6EFIX-15, knew I measued them right :) Just used the NGK identification in my home copy of the NGK catalogue and they list them both as having a 17.5mm thread length, both protruding electrode, etc

Edit: Also, the USA sourced TR5 plug is not the plug to use in an LS1, the TR55 or TR6 plug is the more suitable heat range.

[r8ls1]

yes TR55 sorry. on the BPR6EF, back when I bought them they were not the same plugs as TR55 or TR6. the electrode protruding into the chamber was shorter, and my car consistently went slower at the track with them in. either NGK later modified the design to suit ls1's, or Holden doesnt care and near enough is good enough. judging from what else Holden differ to the US models, I wouldnt be suprised.

[SS Enforcer]

I used the BPR6EFS-15 plugs in my VE and ran my quickest time at the track with them no complaints from me with em.

cheers

[Ausmartin1]

Research BRISK LGS if you want to try something different. GOR-15LGS
MSD leads are supposed to be the best in the market.
:goodjob:
VERY INTERESTING if your chassing those few extra KW's and Nm's !!
http://www.briskusa.com/images/GMHighTechMagazine.pdf

[aftahours]

I used the BPR6EFS-15 plugs in my VE and ran my quickest time at the track with them no complaints from me with em.

cheers

Just put these in my VT with a new set of holden red leads and there is definitely a smoother idle and better power over the worn out iridiums and corroded original leads!

[SLEEPRSV8]

Hi guys,

I own a 02 VY SV8 with only extractors and full exhaust...

Can you please give me a NGK spark plug number for what you recommend. I also would rather put in say a copper head or Iridium than having a plug stay in there for 90k plus..(i.e Platinum )

Thanks guys much appreciated as i want to head to supercheap today and change them...

NGK website recomends : PZTR5A-15 but not sure if this is a Platnum

[cashie]

Hi guys,

I own a 02 VY SV8 with only extractors and full exhaust...

Can you please give me a NGK spark plug number for what you recommend. I also would rather put in say a copper head or Iridium than having a plug stay in there for 90k plus..(i.e Platinum )

Thanks guys much appreciated as i want to head to supercheap today and change them...

NGK website recomends : PZTR5A-15 but not sure if this is a Platnum

Yep, that is the Platinum number..
BPR6EF-15 is the copper standard plug.

[SLEEPRSV8]

Yep, that is the Platinum number..
BPR6EF-15 is the copper standard plug.

Chamnpion thanks heaps buddy...

I cannot track down an Iridium part no. any chance you know this bud?

Also will those copper heads be ok for 5000km ?

[iamhappy46]

BPR6EIX-15 ;) Similiar to the Supercharged V6 engine plug but a 1.5 gap ;)


Still using my NGK Iridiums BPR6EIX-15 without a fault. 12.5psi boost with stock plug 1.5mm gap and still going strong :D

:)

[ova400]

Ok just read through this, but still not sure as most of it went over my head.

I need new plugs for my SS with 240+ cam and heads and am not sure on what would be best - do I just use the recommended one from NGK which is the platinum one (PZTR5A-15) or the copper one (BPR6EF-15)

So any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Dave

[PSI 364]

Dave, go the BPR6EF-15 they are a hell of alot cheaper and have served me well.

Just took them out for the blower install and they look perfect after 6 months use.

Mick

[ova400]

Dave, go the BPR6EF-15 they are a hell of alot cheaper and have served me well.

Just took them out for the blower install and they look perfect after 6 months use.

Mick

Thanks for that

[HYMEY]

BPR6EIX-15 ;) Similiar to the Supercharged V6 engine plug but a 1.5 gap ;)





QUOTE]

BPR6EF=15 have 1.5 mm gap too. thats what the -15 stands for. I use them in my car. I would run 7s in a blown engine, I used to run mostly 8s in turbo 4s. I am sure u can get BR7EF NGKs. I would stick with the copper plugs for cost.

[QUOTE=PSI 364;1480618]Dave, go the BPR6EF-15 they are a hell of alot cheaper and have served me well.

Just took them out for the blower install and they look perfect after 6 months use.

Mick

As previously mentioned in this thread, the above mention plug are definately shorter then the stock delco platinums I pulled from the VE. But having used the BPR6EF-15 for a while now, I find they are pretty good.

I have noticed 2 different plugs mentioned the BPR6EF-15 and the BPR6EFS-15. What are the difference here?

[qikcv8]

i keep burning out spark plug leads as it just touches my extractors and i am wanting to find some sort of protection for them. Its a pain in the arse when they keep burning out on me. Can anyone help please?? Thanks in advance

[iamhappy46]

There is a spark plug lead 'sock' available made from fibreglass weave. I have them on my TT install as I kept burning out leads initially. Will find the box tonight and let ya know.

[qikcv8]

Thanks iamhappy

[PSI 364]

I have noticed 2 different plugs mentioned the BPR6EF-15 and the BPR6EFS-15. What are the difference here?

Hymey have a look at http://www.ngkspark.com.au/sparkplug.php# in the product information section it explains the part numbering system. S represents "standard type" but have a look at the website it explains it very well and theres some good info on there as well.

Hope this helps mate

Mick

[RIDE:42]

NGK TR6 work well here and under $25 :goodjob:

[iamhappy46]

http://www.thermotec.com/cool-it-plug-wire-sleeves.html

Thermo-Tec Cool-It Plug Wire Sleeves :)

[HYMEY]

NGK TR6 work well here and under $25 :goodjob:

Are they the US type? Where did you buy them from?

[TR33VV]

i keep burning out spark plug leads as it just touches my extractors and i am wanting to find some sort of protection for them. Its a pain in the arse when they keep burning out on me. Can anyone help please?? Thanks in advance

http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/9031/1010002i.jpg

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/426/1010003aua.jpg

I had the same problem with the lead touching the headers. I have swapped the lead out with an MSD 8.5mm and have had no issues since.

[RIDE:42]

Are they the US type? Where did you buy them from?
You get them off the shelf at bursons but the set i just put in i got from auto barn it took a day to supply:goodjob:

[BLACK 346]

Got my TR6's from Autobarn as well (stock number 6078).

[HYMEY]

cheers will call them.

[BLACK 346]

Broke one of my Eagle Leads whilst changing the plugs yesterday.
Couldn't find anyone in Adelaide with a decent set of replacement
leads at short notice, all wanted 5-10 days to get them in,
and up to $240 for 10mm Top Gun Leads.
Luckily, I found these on ebay, not a bad price either.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370189061095&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOIBSA:AU:11

[Alister]

Just got a set of MSD leads for $110 brand new.
Will be using either genuine Holden platinum plugs or the NGK platinums.

[evanism]

Just put in my NGK platinums and the Ton Gun leads... after all this time, been lazy... but WOW, I can really tell the difference with these. The original leads and plugs have lasted 105,000 KMs and when they came out they looked spot on... nice light brown, no buildup no wear..... suppose I can put that down to Slick 50 every 3rd oil change and the BP ultimate... but Im still impressed with the new pickup.

[SIR_SKITZ]

Broke one of my Eagle Leads whilst changing the plugs yesterday.
Couldn't find anyone in Adelaide with a decent set of replacement
leads at short notice, all wanted 5-10 days to get them in,
and up to $240 for 10mm Top Gun Leads.
Luckily, I found these on ebay, not a bad price either.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370189061095&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOIBSA:AU:11

$145 is pretty good + $12 for postage, I guess it's still cheaper the most auto parts stores and it saves you fuel driving to the shop to buy them. I priced a set of std TOPGUN leads from REPCO (silly me!) at around $160! :confused:

...


Is there much difference between the TG 10mm and the MSD 8.5?
$110 for the MSD against the TOPGUNS $145 would tend to lean me more toward the MSD, purely for the tight ass factor :booty:

I have had Magnecor wires on other cars and they have served me pretty well, and will be whacking a set on my VX shortly ... Always been at a stop to what plugs to use though, I think I have a pretty good idea what to get now.
I guess with plug choice, it all comes down to try it and see, can get expensive doing it, but hey, how are you going to know if forking out half an arm for the "big gun" irridiums are going to net you better performance over the 2buck jobbies or vica versa?!!

[BLACK 346]

$145 is pretty good + $12 for postage, I guess it's still cheaper the most auto parts stores and it saves you fuel driving to the shop to buy them. I priced a set of std TOPGUN leads from REPCO (silly me!) at around $160! :confused:

...


Is there much difference between the TG 10mm and the MSD 8.5?
$110 for the MSD against the TOPGUNS $145 would tend to lean me more toward the MSD, purely for the tight ass factor :booty:

I have had Magnecor wires on other cars and they have served me pretty well, and will be whacking a set on my VX shortly ... Always been at a stop to what plugs to use though, I think I have a pretty good idea what to get now.
I guess with plug choice, it all comes down to try it and see, can get expensive doing it, but hey, how are you going to know if forking out half an arm for the "big gun" irridiums are going to net you better performance over the 2buck jobbies or vica versa?!!

I believe it is only the insulation that is thicker on the 10mm Top Guns,
I figured it couldn't hurt to have the thicker ones considering they
sit reasonably close to the headers. I am sure the 8.5 MSD's would
be fine though.

[gavlotic]

Hi all,

I've had a helluva time looking for bpr6ef-15, i've been to local burson, super cheap and repco.
I managed to find bpr6ef just wondering if the spark gap needs to be reset to 1.5mm or are they fine as is?

thanks.

gav

[macca_779]

Hi all,

I've had a helluva time looking for bpr6ef-15, i've been to local burson, super cheap and repco.
I managed to find bpr6ef just wondering if the spark gap needs to be reset to 1.5mm or are they fine as is?

thanks.

gav

BPR6EF is obviously the same plug. Just check the gap prior to install. You should do this regardless if they are stamped a -15 or not anyway. If the gap is to tight.. Open it up a bit.

[Ausmartin1]

Not the best to rest gaps on these at all.
Best to return and get the -15 ordered in & setup correctly out of the box.

Cheers!

[BLACK 346]

Not the best to rest gaps on these at all.
Best to return and get the -15 ordered in & setup correctly out of the box.

Cheers!

Why? I, like a lot on here, have been regapping these plugs for
years without any issues. Look forward to your reply :)

[macca_779]

Why? I, like a lot on here, have been regapping these plugs for
years without any issues. Look forward to your reply :)

As do I. Hell when I was learning engines as a kid my old man always told me to check plug gaps. Apparently it used to be quite common back then for plugs to be a bit out from what was advertised. I've never had any ill effect either. In fact I can't fathom how there could possibly be an ill effect as we're not talking huge changes that could distort the integrity of the metal to any noticeable degree.

[Ausmartin1]

Why? I, like a lot on here, have been regapping these plugs for
years without any issues. Look forward to your reply :)

Well it depends......
A) If you have good skills that helps.....
As alot of new plugs like iriduims have very small electrodes and are fragile with (some) peoples skill of regapping could cause a minute crack withouth realising, this then can result a piece of the electrode falling off, piston cylinder & valve damage may occur.

B) Are happy with the electrode legs face NOT being parallel to the tip
(hence I like them perfect out of the box - yes I know insert comments here .....)

For a lawnmower I have no worries, but otherwise I personally like the Toyota's attitude to electical components especially like sparkplugs - if you drop it - it's binned. Makes sence it just ain't worth the risk.
-If bad regapping methods are used it's for me like dropping it.
Everyone has there own values on risk vs their skills is all.... so just erring on the side of caution for the average Joe.
:)

[gavlotic]

BPR6EF is obviously the same plug. Just check the gap prior to install. You should do this regardless if they are stamped a -15 or not anyway. If the gap is to tight.. Open it up a bit.

Just thought to say thanks for the clarification. I thought there was a pre-gapped version.

cheers,

gav

[SIR_SKITZ]

Just another one to throw out there ... What would be the benefit of running a 1 heat range higher plug ... NGK BPR5xxx or should I just stick with the std spec???

Sussed out the vitals, $36 for a set for either the BPR6 or 5s.

[boyley]

When indexing plugs in the L98 which way do you face the open side of the plug tip?

[HRT 8]

When indexing plugs in the L98 which way do you face the open side of the plug tip?
IS it raining outside Boyley??? I reckon you'd be better served polishing your aircondensor lines. :D

[boyley]

IS it raining outside Boyley??? I reckon you'd be better served polishing your aircondensor lines. :D

You got me Grant, I think plug selection is fairly irrelevant TBH they all develop spark and burn fuel, end of.:)

[BlownLS7]

mate you will find that when you come to brissy.

they dip their plugs in Bundy first LOL


when do i get that beer mate?




cheers






You got me Grant, I think plug selection is fairly irrelevant TBH they all develop spark and burn fuel, end of.:)

[macca33]

I'm getting a set of leads made up at the moment as I'm going to re-fit the ETP heads and they need a slightly longer lead. I'll be getting the same leads that I've had for the past 60000k's. The bloke I spoke to does all the Magnecor stuff, yet says that lead failures are more to do with the heat destroying the plug boot, rather than the wire itself dying. He also told me that he could sell me the u-beaut Magnecor KV85 wire, or thicker diameter wire for a higher cost, but that it makes no difference to the performance. This advice mirrors that of the bloke (from a different company) who I bought the last set off. The 8mm leads with silicon high-temp boots will cost me $110.

cheers

[brawlr]

bump. anyone got a part number for the vy s2 leads(red ones)? also what price am i looking at for a set?

[vyls1wa]

Was reading this thread a little earlier, and upon some google searching i found some sites that people may find of interest.

Plus Colour Chart:
http://www.verrill.com/moto/sellingguide/sparkplugs/plugcolorchart.htm


Another colour Chart:
http://www.theultralightplace.com/sparkplugs.htm

and a part number guide taken from: but i C/P it below
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=431689

LS1 Stock and AFR
Thread – 14mm
Reach - .708”
Socket – 5/8 hex
Seat - Taper
Stock Heat Range: 5
Gap: .060
Plug: NGK TR55 (stock number 3951); NGK TR55IX (stock number 7164); Autolite 764; Denso IT-16 (stock number 5325)

Nitrous (one step colder)
Heat Range: 6
Gap: .035 - .038
Plug: NGK TR6 (stock number 4177); NGK TR6IX (stock number 3689); Autolite 103; Denso IT-20 (stock number 5326)

Nitrous (two steps colder)
Heat Range: 7
Gap: Consult
Plug: NGK BR7EF (stock number 3346); NGK TR7IX (stock number 3690); Autolite AR94; Denso IT22 (stock number 5327)

Nitrous (two and a half steps colder)
Heat Range: 8
Gap: Consult
Plug: NGK R5724-8 (stock number 7317); NGK TR8IX (part number 3691); Denso IT-24 (stock number 5328)

Nitrous (three steps colder)
Heat Range: 9
Gap: Consult
Plug: NGK R5724-9 (stock number 7891); Autolite AR93; Denso IT-27

Nitrous (four steps colder)
Heat Range: 10
Gap: Consult
Plug: NGK R5724-10 (stock number 7993); Autolite AR92


LS1 w/ Edelbrock and Dart Heads
Thread – 14mm
Reach – 3/4”
Socket – 5/8 hex
Seat – Gasket

Stock – MFG Recommendations: approx under 9:1 compression
Heat Range: 4
Gap: Consult ignition mfg.
Plug: NGK FR4 (stock number 5155); NGK BKR5EIX (stock number 6341); Autolite 3926; Champion RC12YC (stock number 71); Denso IK16 (stock number 5303)

MFG Recommendations: approx 10.5:1 compression
Heat Range: 5
Gap: Consult ignition mfg.
Plug: NGK FR5 (stock number 7373); Autolite AR3924 (Racing Plug); Autolite 3924; Champion RC9YC (stock number 2075); Denso K20PR-U (stock number 3145); Denso IK20 (stock number 5304)

MFG Recommendations: approx 11:1 compression
Heat Range: 8
Gap: Consult ignition mfg.
Plug: NGK R5672A-8 (stock number 7173); Autolite AR3911; Champion C63YC (stock number 796); Denso IQ24 (stock number 5314)

MFG Recommendations: approx 12:1 compression
Heat Range: 9
Gap: Consult ignition mfg.
Plug: NGK R5672A-9 (stock number 7405); Autolite AR3910; Champion C61YC (stock number 785); Denso IQ27 (stock number 5315)

MFG Recommendations: approx 13:1 compression
Heat Range: 9 - 10
Gap: Consult ignition mfg.
Plug: NGK R5671A-9 (stock number 5238); Autolite AR3933; Champion C59CX (stock number 296); Denso IK27 (stock number 5312)

MFG Recommendations: approx 14:1 compression
Heat Range: 10
Gap: Consult ignition mfg.
Plug: NGK R5671A-10 (stock number 5820); Autolite AR3932; Champion C57CX (stock number 295); Denso IK-31 (stock number 5321)

**NOTE: Use chart for static compression and adjust heat range for nitrous use accordingly.

[WAY88T]

does anyone no the part number for msd leads for a vz ss 6ltr .. there is a set on ebay (well a few) and they say msd LS1 ignition leads ( they say they will suite 6ltr ) but i would just like to make sure they will ..

also there are a set of tr55ix spark plugs on there as well i was looking at getting .. as i have read before they try and sell them as tr55ix but are really not ?

any help would be great


cheers

[gavlotic]

Hi all,

Thought I'd contribute to an older thread about spark plugs and leads rather than start a new thread. I know some guys and included myself have had problems getting leads off in the past so I thought I'd add my 2 cents.

My ute is just under 100,000km and lately had been feeling a bit flat through the rev range with a few flat spots as well - didn't feel normal - so i figured I'd start with plugs and leads. I already had some oem plugs I got from a mate so went to Holden spare parts over the w/e and picked up a new set of the red ls1 leads just under $150. Asked about the ls2/ls3 leads and was quoted almost $300 so stuff that idea I stuck to the ls1 leads couldn't tell the difference anyway by eye though i think the ls2/ls3 are slightly thicker???

Anyway my mechanic recommended that I change leads while the car was warm the connectors expand and don't hold the plugs as tight apparently - I always wondered how mechanics got these off so fast - so I gave it a go. Admitedly I let the car sit for about an 1 1/2 hours or so before starting and even then they were still pretty warm. I used a flat head screw driver to help break the leads seal on the ignition coil so those came off pretty easy. Next I put on some gloves since I wasn't so sure how warm the headers were still and I didn't want to find out the hard way either - well with a slight rotate and wiggle I couldn't believe how easy they came off - I had them all off within a few minutes. Now I admit I tried doing this job while the car was cold one time and after half an hour I could not get the buggers off the plugs. A bit of background I used to own a VS that I serviced myself for bout 8 years before getting rid of it and I don't have weak arms either however I was scared to break the ls1 leads. Putting the leads on and changing the plugs were dead easy though having a uni joint for your ratchet/socket set is priceless here.

So in summary change leads while they're still warm and do the plugs while it's cold. Car's driving a lot smoother and more responsive after changing these. Hopefully this post helps someone else having trouble with leads.

Cheers,

Gav

[Huthy77]

Just to reliven an old thread...

The now recommened NGK plug for VY Gen III V8's is a IZTR5B11....

And you guessed it, that's a 1.1mm gap... Not sure why they would drop the gap from the recommened 1.5, but they are the experts!

Anybody used this part number for the iridiums?

[feistl]

Hey guys,

Just want it cleared up, are the NKG IRIDIUM TR5IX a good choice for a stroked LS1 N/A?

Been reading through, but wasnt 100% sure.

Cheers, Errol.

[PESSV]

Started another thread for plugs for the VE but it got closed down and I got pointed in this thread’s direction. There are people on here talking about the VE and would it be fair to say are using the same plugs and gap as the GENIII guys?

So I looked up a 6.0l VE on the NGK site it gives me an IZTR5B11 NGK’s coding tells me that the last number is the gap. So these are - Iridium, etc,etc,etc heat range 5 gap 1.1mm not 1.5mm. NGK also list the same plug (and gap) for a GENIII. The picture of the emission control info for the GENIII clearly states a 1.5mm gap but for a copper plug, not an Iridium plug. Can’t even find an emissions plate on the VE? Bosch sites don't even give you a VE plug but Bosch agrees with 1.5mm gap (copper) for a GENIII. Champion (US no Aussie site) forget it, they have gone to sh*t with spark plugs. AC Delco forget it. Denso do not list one for the VE but agrees with 1.5mm for a GENIII. A lot of US sites give a gap of 0.40” or 1.016 for the 6.0l L76. Brisk do list a plug for the 6.0l VE, a GOR17LGS or Premium which is not Iridium. Gap 1.1mm. They list the same plug for the GENIII but gap is 1.5mm. They also say 1.1mm gap for their Super (copper) and Silver in a VE.

So what is the gap for an L98 (VE)? Is it 1.1mm Iridium, Platinum or Copper? Can anyone point to where I can find the correct gap because I’ve looked and can’t find bugger all other than what’s on the NGK and Brisk sites.

[hyper24]

Same here, went to buy plugs for VE SS and they were about 20 each. Was going to cost 160 just for plugs because they are the special iridiums or whatever they are.

Does anyone know the standard copper ones that can replace these? Id rather change them every 60k, and pay $40 for plugs then pay $160 and change every 100,000ks

[Blown V2]

Research BRISK LGS if you want to try something different. GOR-15LGS

Hey mate how do you find the Brisks?

I've run them in a few cars, including some supercharged 6's that are known to break down spark and they run fantastic, even though they have a 3.0mm gap.

We also tried some Brisk GR17YPY in a VZ Senator and found 7.9kw.

Cheers,
Adam

[OPTIMUS]

just ordered some of the AC DELCO iridiums from states with other stuff for $70AU lets see how they go

[sikclubby]

make sure you use the factory insulator caps on any aftermarket leads if they fit. I had a set of Msd leads, absoulte crap. Learning the hard way i never reused the factory insulaters, eventually the heat from the extractors made the plastic go brittle on one of the leads and it starting shorting out to headers therefore losing one cylinder. Had me puzzled for a while until i popped the bonnet one night and seen the bright blue spark arking across. anyway got recommnded to use thunder volt leads. suppose to be the ducks nuts and havent had any problems since. made from very high heat resistant

[LS1TOY]

were the leads touchin the headers? the shouldnt! runnin msd leads for 2.5 years about 50,000 kays not a problem in the world. checked resistance the other day, same as when i bought them, still in top nick. can be had for about 160-170 bucks. also very well made and alot easier to remove than factory leads
Jake,

[LS1FRK]

Hi all,

Thought I'd contribute to an older thread about spark plugs and leads rather than start a new thread. I know some guys and included myself have had problems getting leads off in the past so I thought I'd add my 2 cents.

My ute is just under 100,000km and lately had been feeling a bit flat through the rev range with a few flat spots as well - didn't feel normal - so i figured I'd start with plugs and leads. I already had some oem plugs I got from a mate so went to Holden spare parts over the w/e and picked up a new set of the red ls1 leads just under $150. Asked about the ls2/ls3 leads and was quoted almost $300 so stuff that idea I stuck to the ls1 leads couldn't tell the difference anyway by eye though i think the ls2/ls3 are slightly thicker???

Anyway my mechanic recommended that I change leads while the car was warm the connectors expand and don't hold the plugs as tight apparently - I always wondered how mechanics got these off so fast - so I gave it a go. Admitedly I let the car sit for about an 1 1/2 hours or so before starting and even then they were still pretty warm. I used a flat head screw driver to help break the leads seal on the ignition coil so those came off pretty easy. Next I put on some gloves since I wasn't so sure how warm the headers were still and I didn't want to find out the hard way either - well with a slight rotate and wiggle I couldn't believe how easy they came off - I had them all off within a few minutes. Now I admit I tried doing this job while the car was cold one time and after half an hour I could not get the buggers off the plugs. A bit of background I used to own a VS that I serviced myself for bout 8 years before getting rid of it and I don't have weak arms either however I was scared to break the ls1 leads. Putting the leads on and changing the plugs were dead easy though having a uni joint for your ratchet/socket set is priceless here.

So in summary change leads while they're still warm and do the plugs while it's cold. Car's driving a lot smoother and more responsive after changing these. Hopefully this post helps someone else having trouble with leads.

Cheers,

Gav

I used to have a VS also, and have the skinned knuckles to prove I've changed the plugs and leads before. I'll definitely try removing the leads whilst warm next time!

[gavlotic]

I used to have a VS also, and have the skinned knuckles to prove I've changed the plugs and leads before. I'll definitely try removing the leads whilst warm next time!

good stuff mate. They come off quick w/o fail this way. No bruised/skinned knuckles either - real easy.

cheers,

Gav

[wally01]

Same here, went to buy plugs for VE SS and they were about 20 each. Was going to cost 160 just for plugs because they are the special iridiums or whatever they are.

Does anyone know the standard copper ones that can replace these? Id rather change them every 60k, and pay $40 for plugs then pay $160 and change every 100,000ks

Holden just quoted me $32.00 each for plugs ,don't want to sound like a scrooge but i aint paying $256.00 for plugs ...

[LS1-5.7]

You should be able to get some NGK IZTR5B11 plugs for about $16 each from Bursons. They are the NGK equivalent to the AC Delco iridiums just $40 cheaper :)

[IMQIKA]

Sorry to bring up old thread, but my car is missing when it gets hot. Its a LS1 + Turbo, its in a VQ engine bay and is tight for room, the mechanic said that it will start to miss due to the leads sitting close to the manifolds.

Is there a decent lead that won't cost me the world or should i just use the Thermo-Tec sleeves.


Thanks for the help.


Adrian

[Thunder]

Sorry to bring up old thread, but my car is missing when it gets hot. Its a LS1 + Turbo, its in a VQ engine bay and is tight for room, the mechanic said that it will start to miss due to the leads sitting close to the manifolds.

Is there a decent lead that won't cost me the world or should i just use the Thermo-Tec sleeves.


Thanks for the help.


Adrian

Hi Adrian,
I have a LS1 single turbo in my DriftZ and heat is the biggest problem we face and it has caused all sorts of dramas.

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o259/Sureflo/Sureflo%20300zx%20Drift%20Car/P1010096t.jpg

This spark plug lead was inside a thermotect heat shield and it touched the double ceramic coated (black) manifold, burnt through the thermotec and the insulation on the lead, and caused misfires.

The harness on the coil packs developed shorts and sparks started to jump, the spark plug leads broke down and even though they still looked brand new were sparking if the engine bay was covered and dark so you could see them.

We have had problems with inject or plugs, coil packs, thermo fans, wastegates, etc - you name it, we have had dramas. It even blistered the oil filler spout and it sprung a leak. Heat is your enemy !!!

You need as much heat shielding as you can get and you need to get the leads, coil packs and wiring away from the manifolds and turbo, as they glow red hot.

This is a video of it strapped down as hard as we could get it in 4th gear:

Direct Link: YouTube - Sureflo DriftZ smokes the dyno
Cheers
Greg

[IMQIKA]

Thanks for the input Greg.

Ok i'm going to go out and get the insulation tape/roll and wrap my exhaust (they've been HPC coated) but might just go that extra step. I've been looking on summit racing and they sell a spark plug insulator sleeve. Will order those and put that on to. What are the standard size thickness of the factory leads? Is it worth while buying thicker ones?

Hopefully that will drop it a bit and won't miss fire.

Out of interest if i remove the sound deaden-er under the bonnet will that drop temps?

[Thunder]

Thanks for the input Greg.

Ok i'm going to go out and get the insulation tape/roll and wrap my exhaust (they've been HPC coated) but might just go that extra step. I've been looking on summit racing and they sell a spark plug insulator sleeve. Will order those and put that on to. What are the standard size thickness of the factory leads? Is it worth while buying thicker ones?

Hopefully that will drop it a bit and won't miss fire.

Out of interest if i remove the sound deaden-er under the bonnet will that drop temps?

We put better/thicker leads on ours and got the insulation added when they were making them.

If the leads have boots on them it is harder to fit the insulation.
Don't buy any self adhesive heat shielding, as the heat affects the glue and they come off. We have the sewn ones.

Make sure you put a beanie over your turbo as well as this keeps a lot of heat in.

We have a fibreglass bonnet on ours and put several vents into it to get the air flowing through and let the heat out.

Cheers
Greg

[duke5700]

Have you HPC coated the rear of the turbine housing? Combined with a beanie it and dump HPC coated to the Cat it just about cured our heat problems in a VL. I am probably telling you to suck eggs, but I found it worked really well. I plan on HPC coating as much as I can and using insulation on everything.

[Thunder]

Have you HPC coated the rear of the turbine housing? Combined with a beanie it and dump HPC coated to the Cat it just about cured our heat problems in a VL. I am probably telling you to suck eggs, but I found it worked really well. I plan on HPC coating as much as I can and using insulation on everything.

The turbo was new and we weren't sure on how it would go, so we didn't. When it needs rebuilding it will get done though. Everything else was coated in the black ceramic though. The black ceramic on the manifolds turned white, that's how hot they were getting.

Cheers
Greg

[duke5700]

The turbo was new and we weren't sure on how it would go, so we didn't. When it needs rebuilding it will get done though. Everything else was coated in the black ceramic though. The black ceramic on the manifolds turned white, that's how hot they were getting.

Cheers
Greg

Bloody hell, do you have a EGT probe? Be interesting to see how hot its getting. Probably holding it pinned on the limiter, while cutting spark isn't helping :rofl:

[Thunder]

Bloody hell, do you have a EGT probe? Be interesting to see how hot its getting. Probably holding it pinned on the limiter, while cutting spark isn't helping :rofl:

You don't need a probe when it is glowing cherry red. It would probably melt the probe.

We are changing to E85 to make it run a bit cooler, so hopefully this helps.
It is running 75 thou head gaskets - thickest ones Cometic, do and dished pistons. I think compression is down to around 9.1

We are lowering the boost from 10lb down to 5lb, so this will probably help as well.

Drifting isn't kind to engines, as they are frequently sideways - less airflow, and shredding perfectly good semi comp tyres around corners :doh:

Anyway, this thread is supposed to be about spark plugs.

Cheers
Greg

[mcsquirt]

I change both the plugs and leads out at 80,000km (or 5 years regardless) and use the recommended Iridium Plug (Factory Standard AC Delco) on the LS1's.

I have used Bosch (Blue) Metal Can Type Leads and had very good starting, idling, on-road performance and reliability. This is being achieved using Premuim Unleaded Fuels (98 Octane) even after 70-80,000km the combination is still performing well. Putting a Fuel Injector cleaner through the Fuel System about every 10-15,000km followed by a long drive also helps get rubbish (water) out of the fuel system. So far wherever this is used we get relaible motoring and no on-road failures.

From an economic point of view this combination delivers a good compromise of $spent versus performance/reliability (only having to change plugs every 3 or 4 years).

What I have also found on the LS1's is that the heat in the engine bay on a hot day + towing + extended low speed + high speed (sort of your typical Christmas Holidays traffic) is really extreme and very hard on the spark plug lead boots. If you go "cheap" (No metal can) and the leads & boots aren't well protected and constantly maintained in a clean condition they will have a very short or dodgy life... The HV spark is constantly looking for a way out which punches holes in the lead / boots and this leads to premature failure of the coil packs.

Having a look at the condition of the faces of the plugs (and their smell) plus having a look at the carbon / burn-off products found inside of the throttle body and under the Oil Filler Plug will tell you an interesting story about what has been happening to the engine (and behind the steering wheel)..

The reaminder of the problems come from what happens behind the steeering wheel....

[IMQIKA]

Thanks for the feed back.

I think at the end of the day what i will be doing is wrapping the dump pipe and the ignition leads in some sort of thermal insulation tape/boots. With regards to the rear turbo housing, its been HPC treated but i will go out and buy a turbo blanket for it. I think like Thunder said/summed up you need to try and heat proof everything so that what i will do.

Thanks again for the replies.

Adrian

[73LJWhiteSL]

Hey all, I'm having slight missing problems with my VX SS SII mainly when running on LPG (liquid injection). I actually had a backfire in Tuesday but the manifold seems ok. Car has done 120k but I haven't been able to find out of the plugs were changed at 80k or what was put in if they were.

Any way my problem is I just can't seem to get the plug leads off. I tried the trick of leaving the car for an hour after running and coming back while they were still warm but they just won't come off. They come off the coil pack ok but not the plugs. Any suggestions? Car has factory headers, and I think OEM leads ( with the metal protectors).

I've changes plugs on every car I've owned (76 Mazda 808, 73 LJ Torana, 99 Pulsar SSS) myself no problems at normal service intervals but never had problems like this removing leads.

Thanks
Steve

[gavlotic]

hey steve,

are you holding the boot and using a winding twisting motion? If they've been on for a while it helps cos it helps to break the seal first up. When you wind it's almost like taking it just to when you can feel the plug flex a lil.
I've done it this way for both of our cars without a problem. But yeah I always found doing it when they're warm is easier, never could get them off when cold.

cheers,

gav

[73LJWhiteSL]

Gav,

yes trying with a winding twisting motion, but there is so little to grab. I don't want to pull on the cable itself in case I rip it out if the boot. I'll have another go today, might be time for a rag and the pliers.

Thanks Steve

[73LJWhiteSL]

Well looks like i'm replacing the leads as well. I was trying very hard to only pull on the end, not the cable, but the cable came out he end. :bawl:

However, after an hour or so of cursing and pulling, I still only have one lead off. I have removed the one plug i can get to and its an ACDelco plug. Makes me wonder if the plug have ever been replaced (Car has done 120k), however the dyno a few months ago indicated 201rwkws so Its not down on power or anything. Previous owner had no idea if the plugs were changed at 80k.

Were the ones fitted from new ACDelco plugs?

Thanks

Steve

[Peter B - CV8]

Well looks like i'm replacing the leads as well. I was trying very hard to only pull on the end, not the cable, but the cable came out he end. :bawl:

However, after an hour or so of cursing and pulling, I still only have one lead off. I have removed the one plug i can get to and its an ACDelco plug. Makes me wonder if the plug have ever been replaced (Car has done 120k), however the dyno a few months ago indicated 201rwkws so Its not down on power or anything. Previous owner had no idea if the plugs were changed at 80k.

Were the ones fitted from new ACDelco plugs?

Thanks

Steve

Yep, Ac Delco would have been the original plugs & also the plugs used by the Holden dealer for servicing. Don't understand why you are having such big problems in removing the plug leads..... they shouldn't be that difficult.

[gavlotic]

I've heard stories of some leads fusing to the ends of the spark plugs if they've been on too long. Dunno if there's any truth to that.

If you can wait get the leads from overseas else just get another set of oem ones.

eg. http://sdparts.com/category/gm-performance-spark-plug-wires

cheers,

Gav

[73LJWhiteSL]

Well my housemate managed to remove the offending plug leads off with the vicegrips. Some of them had corrosion inside the leads which may have aided in making them hard to remove. The new leads are much easier to remove than the old ones, so I think the corrosion or the leads themselves had stuck to the plugs.

I ended up getting a set of leads from Burson, they are NGK leads and some NGK plugs, because Bursons was within riding distance and I have no other way off getting round, so I can't wait for leads.

The 80K service was done at a garage by a mechanic friend of the previous owner, so I reckon the plugs are the original ones as the car is running much better and idling smoother even on gas. However, I seem to have a flat spot now, when I suddenly press the accelerator on LPG, it seems pretty much ok on Petrol.

Might have to take it back to the installers to check over the gas system.

Thanks

Steve

[Justin_wh]

msd leads for $60 and TR55's for $20 a set, thank you speed-inc.

[feistl]

I know its not LS1 related, but i change the plugs in my daily driver on the weekend. The plugs were ~210,000km old yet surprisingly still had a fair bit of meat left. Being a mercedes, it had 3 prong side electrodes, so obviously lasted a lot longer.

Took me probably 40 minutes to change them over (all 4 :P). Design meant half the top of the engine had to come off to get to them :flipoff:

Still, car is running a lot better and fuel usage has improved. Guess the tip is dont leave spark plugs in for 11 years/210,000km.

[the phat punk]

going to order some of ngk Iridium IX plugs next week and some top gun 10mm sheilded leads from my mate at auto one. whats ls1's opinoin ?

[awesome _vzss]

Not a fan of top gun leads,fitted them to a mates ls1 barge and couldn't get
Them to click onto the plugs properly and 2 of them in the process ripped
Off at the top completely off,returned and used msd leads which I have always
Used and never had any dramas fitted like a glove.

[the phat punk]

is 8.5mm the bigggest size cable that will fit

[spinr33]

I have 10mm top gun leads on mine and their isnt an issue at all been on for 20,000kms + when i originally got them 2 where a loose fit.
I was working at a parts place at the time i just rang the rep told him i wasnt happy with the 2 loose ones and i wanted them replaced because of that, didn't have any issues came back with 2 new ones no problems all good have a lifetime warranty and all that stuff.
But the MSD ones are cheaper from the states then you can buy 10mm ones for at cost so lol go the msd's i say 8.5mm ones.

[the phat punk]

i emailed msd about 10mm leads

> hello i would like to get a quote for 10mm shielded racing leads to suit a 2007 ve ss-v

and they responded

>10mm leads will not fit into the coils on a Gen 111 or Gen 4 V8.
The biggest I can do is 8.5mm (KV85)
A set of these is $A150. plus freight if applicable.

Bob

[AVENGE]

What would be the best for a 402ci with 11.5:1 compression? Haven't looked at much of the rest of this thread as I'm using my phone and need a quick answer.

Cheers
Mark

[smokin_LS1]

What would be the best for a 402ci with 11.5:1 compression? Haven't looked at much of the rest of this thread as I'm using my phone and need a quick answer.

Cheers
Mark
Genuine Holden ACDelco. (Red)

These leads work well.
There is no reason to stray from the genuine leads to an aftermarket brand regardless of what compression ratio you are running.

[AVENGE]

Cheers for that mate. Actually was asking for plugs lol, any info on those?

[smokin_LS1]

Really need more info about your engine and the way it is set up ?

Is your 402 Naturally Aspirated ? I'm only guessing as 11.5 C/R is pretty high for F.I unless you running it on corn juice(e85).

To be honest I think it would be best if you spoke to someone on here that has an exact or very similar engine set up as yours.
See what first hand experience and results they've had with different plugs.

I'm sure someone on this forum can chime in on a good plug to use.

[AVENGE]

Yeah just naturally aspirated, still running factory ACDelco plugs atm, but found tonight that a spark problem I'm having appears to be coming from a Coil pack.....not sure if its normal, but will 1 faulty pack affect the other 3 on that side ?

[Red CV8 R]

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but I have been researching what are the best sparkplugs for my Heads and cam 2004 5.7 on a number of forums and get different answers. What is the current recommended sparkplugs for a hotter than stock LS1? Not worried about cost, just what works best. While the car has very low kms, the leads are from 2004, are they worth replacing too? Thanks.

[white lie]

3rd post still rings pretty true IMO.

[Micks]

I like the oem Iridium plugs albeit a little xp over the Bosch bpr's, With leads oem are great. But with my LS3 have just changed them to the thicker MSD ones.

[Red CV8 R]

3rd post still rings pretty true IMO.

Thanks, I had a previous mechanic swear by iridium plugs and some on forums suggested this was the go. So I need these and just change them more frequently:

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NGK-TR6-Spark-Plugs-Set-of-8-Perfectly-suited-to-cammed-and-Turbo-LS1-Engines/352373707443?hash=item520b1c12b3:g:QCAAAOSwk1VbF8Q o

[white lie]

Thanks, I had a previous mechanic swear by iridium plugs and some on forums suggested this was the go. So I need these and just change them more frequently:

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NGK-TR6-Spark-Plugs-Set-of-8-Perfectly-suited-to-cammed-and-Turbo-LS1-Engines/352373707443?hash=item520b1c12b3:g:QCAAAOSwk1VbF8Q oYou can get the TR6IX Iridium version, I just don't like the idea of throwing them in for that long and not checking on them.
Just be careful if you're gapping them as you can damage them very easily.

[Micks]

As you say, if you keep Iridiums, pull them out clean & re gap as they last longer than the cheaper Bosch replacements.

[Red CV8 R]

Thanks guys, my car does very few kms so I wouldn't be leaving them in on a km basis, they get changed every few years. Although the current ones have been in there for a long time but the heads were off not that long ago so I assume they weren't seized or anything nasty. The plugs will be installed by a mechanic, not myself, I don't know if that changes things?

[BLACK 346]

The plugs will be installed by a mechanic, not myself, I don't know if that changes things?

Yeah it does, the cost x by about 4 depending on the plugs you chose :)

FWIW, I am running BPR7EFS, but that is in a blown car.

[Red CV8 R]

These would be the Iridium versions:

https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=TR6IX+Iridium&_sacat=0&_sop=15

[Red CV8 R]

These NGK TR6IX versions are not commonly available. eBay may be the better option for purchase. Strangely some sites list that the TR6IX is only suitable for VZ Monaro onwards (I have a VYII), does anyone know if there are multiple versions of this plug? I can only find one plug part number, 3689.

[white lie]

The TR6IX is listed as their LPG plug as it's a cooler plug than what they would normally recommend on a standard motor. Their suitability, would be why you struggle to find it in auto shops as factory LPG isn't all that popular. Pretty sure the "standard" replacement should be a 5, not a 6.

So I'm guessing the actual Iridiums they would recommend for the 5.7L would be the TR5's but for some reason NGK recommend platinums on the earlier models which have a different gap.

[Red CV8 R]

The TR6IX is listed as their LPG plug as it's a cooler plug than what they would normally recommend on a standard motor. Their suitability, would be why you struggle to find it in auto shops as factory LPG isn't all that popular. Pretty sure the "standard" replacement should be a 5, not a 6.

So I'm guessing the actual Iridiums they would recommend for the 5.7L would be the TR5's but for some reason NGK recommend platinums on the earlier models which have a different gap.


I didn't realise they were listing it as an LPG plug, thanks. I couldn't work out why they list the TR6IX for the VZ 5.7 and not the earlier 5.7 but the gap difference may have something to do with it.

[Jason01]

NGK TR6IX, I saw over 40 000km out of a set with no drama so I can recommend them, 0.9 or 1mm gap I think from memory (whatever they come with). My local Repco usually stocks them and I know the guys there well so they hook me up with a good price fortunately.

[VLSteve]

Typical price?

I've been using the OEM ACDELCO ones in my 6L and found the price for them is pretty good

[RooVESS]

To give a 2021 update on a 2010 VE SS V8:
My local legendary Holden dealer has replaced its signs with Haval signage and dealership. My VE SS 2010 manual dual fuel, (aftermarket orbital liquid injected gas system) hit 180,000 klms so I decided a plug replacement was necessary.

I priced the cost of that dealership to cahnge plugs and leads on my VE SS manual ute, in replacing the spark plugs and leads (that usually break on removal). This is a 90,000 kilometre scheduled replacement. The Haval dealer who is a GM service agent quoted the spark plugs and labour replacement $510.00 plus the cost of leads $644.00 total $1,154.00.
I purchased Bosch leads and the same NGK sparks plugs recommended and matching those in the vehicle for a total of $280.00 The leads were $139 of this cost.
I fitted them - which was a pain in the neck difficult task made rewarding by saving over $850 on my Saturday stealership quote.
With another learning experience on dealerships under my belt, replaced plugs and leads with great Supercheap prices and advice (thanks Alex) it took me a much longer time than anticipated.
Incorrect plug information in the automotive popular brand of after market manual plus the SS owner’s manual not even specifying what type of spark plug is required -added up to a total Holden dealership and product failure. Google “mechanic”, forums and YouTube were all consulted but required a discerning approach to sort through so much garbage and find that needle.

I learnt:- the leads are difficult remove and I am told that they get broken in removal from the spark plug and sure one did. There must be an easier way or tool (apart from me) to remove the plug leads? The plugs were easy to remove in terms of unscrewing them.
The NGK iridium plugs removed were fine but the $28 each new plugs went in. Supercheap price matched an ebay plugs price as the ebay seller had a physical sales shop and was a company, so 8 plugs for $139 verses Repco’s $225. I broke one lead but they come in an 8 set. Repco’s own brand $233, Supercheap’s Bosch brand $139.
These were much better than what replaced but I needed to use the old heat shields.
Supercheap saved me $180 over Repco and $876 over the dealership. I did fill the swear and sweat jar by most of the savings.

[Ausmartin1]

Amazing the crazy prices for a set of plugs and leads as aftermarket NHK and good set of lead can be bought easy. Should use some dielectric grease on the porcelain part of the plugs, that way the boots don't get stuck.... Yes it is interesting most aftermarket leads you have to reuse the original metal heat shields.

[Micks]

I use oem plugs & a/m msd leads, reuse shields.

[Smitty]

Amazing the crazy prices for a set of plugs and leads as aftermarket NHK and good set of lead can be bought easy. Should use some dielectric grease on the porcelain part of the plugs, that way the boots don't get stuck.... Yes it is interesting most aftermarket leads you have to reuse the original metal heat shields.

.. except if the leads are ICE brand.

as I found out, you cannot use the metal shields as the ICE lead boot is far shorter (about 8mm) than the
original OEM boot. The ICE boots simply won't go on if you use the shields!



ps... I am using the original AC plugs (again)

[duke5700]

You can buy the heat shields, I use them on aftermarket leads, exhaust manifolds. They seems to work.

https://www.tiperformance.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/RWM-045-ALT-MEDRES.jpg

[BLACK 346]

You can buy the heat shields, I use them on aftermarket leads, exhaust manifolds. They seems to work.

https://www.tiperformance.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/RWM-045-ALT-MEDRES.jpg

Same here, been running them on my LS cars for years and have a set on both current cars. About $26 for 8 on ebay from memory.

[Smitty]

... I use them on aftermarket leads, exhaust manifolds. They seems to work.

https://www.tiperformance.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/RWM-045-ALT-MEDRES.jpg


I use those plug socks (note.. very different from the spring loaded factory metal shields) on the VK race car
(308 carbed race engine)

nice.. too ! as you can get them colour coded to ya plug leads :)

https://images2.imgbox.com/51/80/xSrkOep8_o.jpg

[duke5700]

Colour coded you say? I've not seen them, I'll have a look. Black would be perfect.

[BLACK 346]

Colour coded you say? I've not seen them, I'll have a look. Black would be perfect.

The ones I bought for my ute late last year.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/8X-2500-Spark-Plug-Wire-Heat-Shield-Sleeve-Protector-Boots-Cover-For-LS1-LS2/324218326223?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

[whitels1ss]

Harrop sell some, they look fantastic but not exactly cheap. :shock:

https://teamharrop.com/collections/accessories/products/harrop-spark-plug-boots

[BLACK 346]

Harrop sell some, they look fantastic but not exactly cheap. :shock:

https://teamharrop.com/collections/accessories/products/harrop-spark-plug-boots

The $20 ones off ebay with Harrop printed on them?

[Smitty]

Harrop sell some, they look fantastic but not exactly cheap. :shock:

https://teamharrop.com/collections/accessories/products/harrop-spark-plug-boots


I got mine here.... was $70 the set of 8

http://www.dciperformance.com.au/products/view/id:783/title:Sparkplug+Boots



Outlaw Speed Shop flog them too ...

https://outlawspeed.com.au/shop/dci-uun750rd

[whitels1ss]

Outlaw Speed Shop flog them too ...

https://outlawspeed.com.au/shop/dci-uun750rd

Yeah, great guys, I have spent a few dollars in there over time. :hide:

[motomk]

Don't visit Rockauto if you want to see how much the prices of OEM spark plugs and wires are. The prices quoted above is just naughty.
The OEM part number for the spark plugs has changed recently.
When I am ordering something, I normally add service items or get my friend to add parts to his order.
Postage can be $$$ if it is coming from more than one location.
Friends old C4 Corvette is nearly rebuilt by Rockauto.

[Smitty]

......................
The OEM part number for the spark plugs has changed recently.
...............
..........................

a big YES to that... as my local dealer found out when I went and got new plugs
they had them listed as #1262.. something but Holden could not supply that
as the new Holden number is #41977 also shown as AC Delco #41-110

The dealer part listing had not been updated