Need new rotors!!!

[Tron2004]

Hi guys,

Just a quick one (because I know this topic has been almost done to death).

I'm looking at getting some new rotors for the front of my SV8.
The current stock rotors have been there since new (late 2003) and have been warped since early 2004. :mad:

I can get the DBA 4000 XS series.
These are the Kangaroo Paw' XS cross-drilled & slotted design,
available only on DBA 4000 series disc rotors.

http://www.dba.com.au/new_products/fordba_xs.asp

My local AutoBarn is letting me have these for $160 each, which I thought was pretty damn good!!

I've heard good reports and they look the goods too.

So.... can I get some opinions on the drilled and slotted design??

[iamhappy46]

Avoid the XS rotors, as they crack around the drill holes extremely fast.

The DBA4000 Slotted rotors are a lot better design, are cheaper and actually pull the car up under load more consistently. You'll also notice, the XS rotors cannot be used in motorsport as they crack(and in a few cases shatter)...

I think it has been covered before as well.

[bsbozzy]

I bought Front and Rear rotors off ebay, RDA Slotted from around $300, work fine.

[muzza]

I'll second that - RDA slotted/dimpled rotors work just great - I got mine for $320 retail (after slight bargaining), but ebay has em for a bit less.

They look the goods too.

Muzza

[Tonner]

Yeh ive gotta wave the flag for DBA, the customer service is the best, they actually came out to see how mine were after a brief chat on the phone.

The 4000 series slotted with Lucas comp pads:thumbsup:

[FeRgO]

I give DBA a big thumbs up, but only to their slotted disc rotor range. The cross drilled and slotted range have tendencies to crack ill try and dig out one of my old front rotors and get a pic.. was 3 weeks old and had 7 cracks - all starting at one of the crossdrilled holes. This also depends on your driving style, and anyone who gives their car a bit of stick every now and then will also need to pull up. IMO i think cross drilled rotors are good for looks, but a bit of a let down in the performance department. slotted only go just as good without the hassle.

[HSV Listy]

Try this. Racing pads on standard rotors.
New DBA 5000s on now.
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q298/bigtony20062007/MeetHVandnewsuspension034.jpg

The old rotors did 6 years without an issue and were still going strong. It was not until I changed the specification of the pads and raced the car they gave up. The cross drilled look the goods but don't give them hell that is all.

[iamhappy46]

I paid around $320 for my slotted DBA4000 rotors on my ute but I know they can be bought cheaper if you shop around(I paid overnight freight as I needed the car back asap) The 6x6 wiper slot design looks great as well :D

Cross-drilled rotors are good IF they are cast with the holes in them(like Prosche/Mercedes/etc) but drilling the holes after thay rotor has been cast is a big no-no.l

[VX2VESS]

i got DBA molycarbide slotted discs. lighter, stronger, harder, seem fine so far only on two weeks. have the large curved slots on these. $240 pair front not listed on the dba website the other week yet, newish...

got quoted $150 pair for those slotted and dimpled ones, but thought i'd try the molycarbide ones out.

i been using formula foroda pads for years now, fantastic pads for stopping at any speed. but the dust..........

so trying EBC green pads got for $115 front. so far much less dust and performance is almost as good, not as good first bite unless warmed so far but not done enough k' to fully bed in yet. first test in usual spot 120 ks down to 50 it was taking a while to pull up at first more progressive than the FF's. so dust reduction is either the pads or moly rotors, but about half the dust so far :)

[Tron2004]

Thanx guys for your comments.

But I did end up getting the DBA 4040XS
These are cross-drilled AND slotted.
Apparently if you don't treat em too rough they'll be ok.
And I generally don't drive my beast too punishingly and always
give myself plenty of braking time when I can.
So all in all I shouldn't expect to see any cracks.
Well, I hope not anyway. ;)

Gonna couple these rotors with some Bendix GCT ceramic pads too.

[L30N]

good luck with 'em :thumbsup:

[shep]

here's where I got mine. these are CNC'd on GMH stocks.. Cheap!!
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/040-X-DRILLED-SLOTTED-ROTORS-VT-VU-VX-VY-VZ-WH-SS-HSV_W0QQitemZ140111153870QQihZ004QQcategoryZ39382Q QrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
$100 a corner

[L30N]

That is pretty cheap aye....
Prefer slotted only though... not a big fan of slotted & cross-drilled... but still cheap for whoever's intrested

[iamhappy46]

here's where I got mine. these are CNC'd on GMH stocks.. Cheap!!
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/040-X-DRILLED-SLOTTED-ROTORS-VT-VU-VX-VY-VZ-WH-SS-HSV_W0QQitemZ140111153870QQihZ004QQcategoryZ39382Q QrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
$100 a corner

If they are not tempered, after machining they are illegal to be fitted to a street vehicle(ie dont meet australian standards) which will void your insurance policy if you have an accident. I would STRONGLY advise against fitting them. Any engineering firm would also tell you what is involved in getting the grain structure of of steel to align to suit cross drilled/slotted rotors, which is the problem with the cross drilled rotors, even they fail due to the tempering process not flowing the grain structure properly when the pad gets hot again.

[shep]

If they are not tempered, after machining they are illegal to be fitted to a street vehicle(ie dont meet australian standards) which will void your insurance policy if you have an accident. I would STRONGLY advise against fitting them. Any engineering firm would also tell you what is involved in getting the grain structure of of steel to align to suit cross drilled/slotted rotors, which is the problem with the cross drilled rotors, even they fail due to the tempering process not flowing the grain structure properly when the pad gets hot again.

What is the Australian standard on Disc rotors

[iamhappy46]

ADR 31/01 (http://www.comlaw.gov.au/ComLaw/Legislation/LegislativeInstrument1.nsf/0/91E92AA69F7FE9D1CA2570D600043EDA/$file/ADR+31-01+[FINAL+FRLI].pdf)

I attended a DBA workshop which demostrated how the DBA castings have thicker 'walls' to accomodate the slots, with a thinner ventilated section. By CNC machining the stock rotors, it reduces the heat dissapation properties as there is less volume of metal in the rotor which means more heat is stored and ultimately will destroy the rotor. That is one reason why DBA win so many awards for their rotor designs :)

If your happy with them fine, but I would strongly urge nobody else to buy them. I was quoted $111 each for DBA4000 slotted rotors this morning, with the regular slotted DBA rotors for my VY being $84 each.

[shep]

ADR 31/01 (http://www.comlaw.gov.au/ComLaw/Legislation/LegislativeInstrument1.nsf/0/91E92AA69F7FE9D1CA2570D600043EDA/$file/ADR+31-01+[FINAL+FRLI].pdf)

I attended a DBA workshop which demostrated how the DBA castings have thicker 'walls' to accomodate the slots, with a thinner ventilated section. By CNC machining the stock rotors, it reduces the heat dissapation properties as there is less volume of metal in the rotor which means more heat is stored and ultimately will destroy the rotor. That is one reason why DBA win so many awards for their rotor designs :)

If your happy with them fine, but I would strongly urge nobody else to buy them. I was quoted $111 each for DBA4000 slotted rotors this morning, with the regular slotted DBA rotors for my VY being $84 each.


The cheapest price I got for DBA4000's was $160 a corner, If I could have got anywhere $111 they would be on my car instead.

[Tron2004]

When people buy new rotors to replace existing ones, I wonder how many take note of the following??
Or does it really make any difference??
Taken from the service manual CD...



The brake disc to hub relationship is carefully matched during production
(indexed), to minimise the effect of a tolerance stack-up, that could result
in a disc runout and subsequent brake shudder.

Therefore, prior to removal of the front brake disc/s, check to see whether
a paint daub mark (1) is still visible on the brake disc hub surface, adjacent
to one of the wheel studs and in alignment with the 2 marks (2) on the end
of the hub, as shown.

If the paint marks are no longer visible, then carefully mark the relationship
of the brake disc to the hub for reinstallation, using a felt pen or similar.
If this precaution is not taken, then a disc runout condition could be induced
that will cause brake shudder.

NOTE: If the brake disc is being removed to rectify brake shudder, if the
brake disc is to be machined or replaced, or if brake disc to hub matching
is not evident, then the brake disc to the hub must be indexed. Refer to
procedure in this Section.

[VX2VESS]

When people buy new rotors to replace existing ones, I wonder how many take note of the following??
Or does it really make any difference??
Taken from the service manual CD...



The brake disc to hub relationship is carefully matched during production
(indexed), to minimise the effect of a tolerance stack-up, that could result
in a disc runout and subsequent brake shudder.

Therefore, prior to removal of the front brake disc/s, check to see whether
a paint daub mark (1) is still visible on the brake disc hub surface, adjacent
to one of the wheel studs and in alignment with the 2 marks (2) on the end
of the hub, as shown.

If the paint marks are no longer visible, then carefully mark the relationship
of the brake disc to the hub for reinstallation, using a felt pen or similar.
If this precaution is not taken, then a disc runout condition could be induced
that will cause brake shudder.

NOTE: If the brake disc is being removed to rectify brake shudder, if the
brake disc is to be machined or replaced, or if brake disc to hub matching
is not evident, then the brake disc to the hub must be indexed. Refer to
procedure in this Section.

yes i do, and it can make a big difference. EG first fitted position runout was .15 got that down to .05 by rotation, and .00 on the other side first go

[vyssbeast]

The cheapest price I got for DBA4000's was $160 a corner, If I could have got anywhere $111 they would be on my car instead.

so if i buy 4 of these rotors, i need new pads to do a decent job

how much should the whole job cost, n then how much for labour??

[Tron2004]

yes i do, and it can make a big difference. EG first fitted position runout was .15 got that down to .05 by rotation, and .00 on the other side first go
I pick up my new rotors tomorrow, so looks like I'm going to need to
pick up a Dial Indicator as well to check the runout...


so if i buy 4 of these rotors, i need new pads to do a decent job

how much should the whole job cost, n then how much for labour??
All up for me was...

DBA 4040XS (Gold series - slotted & cross drilled) $219 ea.
Bendix GCT pads $140 for both front and rear.

Total = $578 and will haveta add the cost of a Dial Indicator.
No idea how much for that.

I didn't worry about the rears for now.

[Crispy]

depends on how hard u brake ??????
I dragged my old ladys VX GTS down at the drags and apon braking at the end of the 1/4 mile i maneged to shatter one rotor and crack the other i have the sltted on my clubby and find they can take alot more ............