running in a V8

[Tornado 900]

whats peoples opinion, Seeing as the ute will be my first new car I thought it best to ask. When I did my Benelli Tornado I went through about 4 or 5 series of bringing the motor to fully warm then switching her off to cool compleltely, and rode her to abut 50% throttle for 50 kays, dropped the oil ( steel chips, splinters and crap that looking like silver antisieze , was attached to the magnetic sump plug), rode her to 200 kays on 1//2 throttle. then 2/3rds up to 500 kays, then I could take her to full throttle from there, i ran a cheap mineral oil for the first 200, mineral bike oil to 2000 kays then switched to full synth. Now I know a V8 is a lot less stressed than the triple, so what should be my procedure, i expect the car will already have delivery km's on it, (whereas the Bennelli was still in the crate from Italy) and do the 6.0L's work best on a good semi synth, mineral or synth, as Ive seen some bike suffer less issues with minerals than with full synth (mind you bikes run a enclosed gear box and wet clutch).
Do the Ve's come with a magnetic sump plug?
I know the service schedule says oil changes every 15,000 (after the initial 3000 service?) but Ive always dropped the oil once it look fairly dirty.

Arh, V8, next best thing until Benelli bring out their 1000cc V6 Superbike :smilesandbanana:

[Gonadman2]

I stuck fuel in mine and drove it around. Seems to be running fine after 26,000kms.

[Wonky]

If you do a search on here you will find many people on here say the best way to run these motors in is to wait until they are nice and warm so the oil is hot then drive them hard! The people who do that reckon their motors now have more power and run better than those which were babied during running in.

According to things I've read, apparently these motors are given a good run-in in the engine factory before they even get put into a car.

[neb]

yes i am sure there was a thread on here awhile ago about this and a fellow posted a clip of himself leaving the dealership sideways... awesome. I think he even gave an update and said his car was running a sweeet as a sewing machine to date. So yep drive it hard from day one i say.

cheers.

[SV8VY]

Ok here is my opinion for cars and bikes.
Always warm up then give it a hard time with varied speed,stop go and freeway use at different rev range with plenty of hills.
Little secret -If you have a tow bar (not for bikes)atach a heavy trailer and tow around for a while :)
ALWAYS COOL IT DOWN -meaning drive it slowly for a few km before shutting the engine down.
Change the oil after 1000- 1500 km with mineral oil only and after 10,000 again and you can use synthetic or semi synthetic.
Try not to redline it and bounce it off the limiter.
Gone are the old days when we were told to baby it at low rpm for thousands of km.

[WAVESS]

Also remember your diff and gearbox, do they need any special break in ?

[clubbie]

Tornado

The only rule with running in a V8 is to let the thing warm up properly for oil supply and the do not allow the thing to lug around at low speed/high gear.

I was told by the dealer "do not baby it" "don't go over the top and thrash it" but drive it hard. There is usually mineral based oil in the motor from new which needs to be dropped after the first 1000 - 1500km and a fresh filter. (don't leave it until 3000k service).

Clubbie

PS Personally I have always used full synthetic on both the bike and the car but I'm gullible and I believe the marketing hype.

[PBoB]

When I did my Benelli Tornado I went through about 4 or 5 series of bringing the motor to fully warm then switching her off to cool compleltely, and rode her to abut 50% throttle for 50 kays, dropped the oil ( steel chips, splinters and crap that looking like silver antisieze , was attached to the magnetic sump plug), rode her to 200 kays on 1//2 throttle. then 2/3rds up to 500 kays, then I could take her to full throttle from there, i ran a cheap mineral oil for the first 200, mineral bike oil to 2000 kays then switched to full synth.:

I'm not sure on bikes, but I know that the only time you need to run in a car like that is when you've put a rebuild kit through it and all the new parts in the motor are different and not necessarily built for each other. A new motor from factory is ready to rock from 0km.

At the dealership they told me the only thing is don't use cruise control for about 700km, otherwise the engine tends to get used to sitting on a certain speed (eg whatever speed you use cc on) and then you'll have dramas, eg if you use cc at 100km then try and do 90, it'll always creep up to 100km. My previous car used to do it cos of the idiots who owned it b4 me.

Focker out...

[DDSSVE]

I agree with SV8VY.

Im pretty sure the 18yr old pre delivery mech will run it in nice and gently for you anyway.:confused:

[r1inoz]

just had my ve ss in for its 3k inspection not service and i got them to do the filter and oil change as i think 15000 kays is a bit much for oil.as for runnin in drive it hard but not to hard(dont redline evry gear)but dont baby it,i got bikes too(06 r1)but i caned it from new and its still purrin like a kitten,not even any valve noise

[Ausmartin1]

Also remember your diff and gearbox, do they need any special break in ?
Well yes..... gears, bushes & bearings break in better with gentle treatment along with camshafts ! - As per the manufactures of these components.

Piston rings are they are the only items that benefit from harder break in but how to do with with everything else? Even the Piston rings you need a test track / dyno where you can cycle - accerate hard and deccelerate over a few times to really load/bed the rings in. To get peak pressures and tehn some oil in. It really needs to be done early in a engines life - preferably soon after when built/rebuilt.

I prefer gentle breakin with a few short mild accelerations when hot, don't use oil and have plenty of go. Driving similar cars - may be it's just luck of the draw, some go better than others regardless of the treatment.

I remeber the demo I had which was trashed and that was like weak compared to mine from new. I've heard of company vehicles the other way the thrashed one went better. Who knows? I put it down to voodoo and luck.

[WAVESS]

Well yes..... gears, bushes & bearings break in better with gentle treatment along with camshafts ! - As per the manufactures of these components.

Piston rings are they are the only items that benefit from harder break in but how to do with with everything else? Even the Piston rings you need a test track / dyno where you can cycle - accerate hard and deccelerate over a few times to really load/bed the rings in. To get peak pressures and tehn some oil in. It really needs to be done early in a engines life - preferably soon after when built/rebuilt.

I prefer gentle breakin with a few short mild accelerations when hot, don't use oil and have plenty of go. Driving similar cars - may be it's just luck of the draw, some go better than others regardless of the treatment.

I remeber the demo I had which was trashed and that was like weak compared to mine from new. I've heard of company vehicles the other way the thrashed one went better. Who knows? I put it down to voodoo and luck.

Cool, I think I can remember the dealer saying something about it, but I would prefer to bed the engine properly first too.

[KeenGolfer]

SEARCH, this has been covered to death 5000 times.

[PBoB]

There is usually mineral based oil in the motor from new which needs to be dropped after the first 1000 - 1500km and a fresh filter. (don't leave it until 3000k service).

Whys that? Does the new oil damage the motor if in for 3000km? Mine's just clicked over 2000km and the oil looks kinda browny, not new but not bad.

[Wonky]

Whys that? Does the new oil damage the motor if in for 3000km? Mine's just clicked over 2000km and the oil looks kinda browny, not new but not bad.
In fact, unless you specifically request it the dealer won't change oil and filter at the 3,000km inspection, so that oil will go 10,000km! :eek: