VE Clutch Sticking - Possible Issue

[SSASSC1]

I have mentioned this in another thread but I though I would post this new threat here with the intention of getting some more discussion and interest going about this potential issue with the VE clutch......

I finally had the opportunity to well and truly give my VE SSV a good run ( ie FLOG ), and my clutch got stuck half way out when I launched and gave it a bit on the Ls1 SA cruise over the weekend.

At first I had no idea WTF was going on. Boot was planted, engine bouncing off the rev limiter, and while I was accelerating ( rather slowly ) SMOKE was pouring out from under the car. Went on for about for about 15 seconds until I figured out that I wasn't doing a burnout, but instead I was chewing the guts out of my clutch, and I proceeded to stink / smoke out my fellow cruisers behind me ( Sorry Toddler and Fitzy......hehe )

Hate to think how much meat I managed to destroy off the clutch assy whilst it was slipping. The smell and smoke was friggen disgusting.

You recon I should mention the fact to Holden my clutch is playing up ?

Have I potentially stuffed my clutch because there is now a slight shudder present even when I take off and accelerate normally

Cheers

John

[Sonnymad]

I have mentioned this in another thread but I though I would post this new threat here with the intention of getting some more discussion and interest going about this potential issue with the VE clutch......

I finally had the opportunity to well and truly give my VE SSV a good run ( ie FLOG ), and my clutch got stuck half way out when I launched and gave it a bit on the Ls1 SA cruise over the weekend.

At first I had no idea WTF was going on. Boot was planted, engine bouncing off the rev limiter, and while I was accelerating ( rather slowly ) SMOKE was pouring out from under the car. Went on for about for about 15 seconds until I figured out that I wasn't doing a burnout, but instead I was chewing the guts out of my clutch, and I proceeded to stink / smoke out my fellow cruisers behind me ( Sorry Toddler and Fitzy......hehe )

Hate to think how much meat I managed to destroy off the clutch assy whilst it was slipping. The smell and smoke was friggen disgusting.

You recon I should mention the fact to Holden my clutch is playing up ?

Have I potentially stuffed my clutch because there is now a slight shudder present even when I take off and accelerate normally

Cheers

John


John,

Dont be alarmed,this is common with the ve's,nearly every ve i have had in the shop has done this,we have been working with pete a textralia to tryin cure this issue.


regards sonny

[SSASSC1]

John,

Dont be alarmed,this is common with the ve's,nearly every ve i have had in the shop has done this,we have been working with pete a textralia to tryin cure this issue.


regards sonny


OK - Thx for that Sonny.

[klink]

Hi John,

I would discuss the matter with the dealer and see what they have to say.

As it doesnt sound real good at all.

Could it have something to do with the fluid cooking, (im just guessing) as i know i have to replace my fluid a couple times.

Last time i was going to change it was after i was shooting sparks out of my clutch. ( funny that it happen to be the second car to that in a week) but i was told that it was normal so i left it. and has been ok since.

Paul

[Marco]

Mine sticks a bit too sometimes, especially when driving hard - but not to the extent that yours does. I complained, had it checked out, and its "operation was normal".

[VYSSBlack]

Hi John,

Ive had the same problem with my VE. Havent had the chance to take it back to Holden for its 15k service as im not allowed to drive at the moment. Let us know if you get it sorted out for when I get back on the road.

Cheers

Paul

[MclarenF1]

mine just stuck tonight, i don't how it happens. There was certainly no forward motion, it appears like it's slipping. It smell terrible. I will talk to my dealer about that i want a new clutch as it has other issues too.

[black vxss]

As i mentioned in the other thread, I had the master cylinder replaced by Holden and no issues since with a sticking clutch.

[chillicatqld]

[QUOTE=klink;1058599]Hi John,

I would discuss the matter with the dealer and see what they have to say.

As it doesnt sound real good at all.

That conversation would go like this..... "oh yes I seem to have a problem with my clutch sticking when I was trying to fry the hell outta my back tyres... what can you do about it?"
Holden: "get he F#@k out of here man..."!! :flipoff:

lol - good luck with that...

[black vxss]

lol - good luck with that...

They aren't all bad. At 3,00o service the dealer said "could not replicate fault". 2nd dealer i took it to I told them when accelerating fast off the mark it sticks. I returned at the end of the day and had a new master cylinder and no more problems.

[Curtis-R]

I had same problem and posted about it a while ago.. as Sonny says its a common problem.. I see SSASSC1 you found the post under the textralia section anyway.. The clutch pedal sticking down is where the problem seems to be with the slave cylinder.. they are also a self adjusting setup, so I would be interested in what Sonny and Tex can come with :)

[MattJ]

I had this problem with a customers C5 Corvette and then with a VE SS a week later. The Corvette was fixed by removing the fluid line restrictor; the VE still had the problem when I left that company.

Rest assured it is not a clutch issue; it is a fluid return issue. It is also compounded by the spring assembly connected to the pedal. The spring is designed to offer a restriction to pedal effort over the first half of the movement and then after the half way point it assists in pedal effort. In other words the spring is helping keep the pedal on the floor after the half way point. As Mr Haylock pointed out you can feel this with your foot when applying the clutch, try it with your hand! Under hard and fast shifting the fluid return is restricted holding the clutch in an applied state (this causes the slip). This lack of returning fluid results in the clutch master cylinder piston not returning back to reload with fluid and the pedal staying on the floor, which is again compounded by the spring arrangement.

The factory clutch is a very good thing if not abused; prematurely replacing the clutch will not solve this problem.

The Corvette for example has this factory restrictor to limit the speed in which you can shift, this is done to minimise gearbox (syncro) damage.

Matt.

(This is a copy of my post in the Textralia forum.)

[SSASSC1]

Thx for that Matt - My car is booked into my local holden dealer and they are aware of the clutch issue on "some" of the VE 6 speeds. They are going to pull the clutch assy and do an inspection.

Looks as though I may be getting a new clutch. They may even replace the master cylinder as well as an precaution.

Thankfully I get on really well with the service manager and have been dealing with him for a couple of years now.............

I really think this is the key - Having a good relationship with your holden dealer ;)

Will let everyone know the out come next week.

Cheers
John

[klink]

Thx for that Matt - My car is booked into my local holden dealer and they are aware of the clutch issue on "some" of the VE 6 speeds. They are going to pull the clutch assy and do an inspection.

Looks as though I may be getting a new clutch. They may even replace the master cylinder as well as an precaution.

Thankfully I get on really well with the service manager and have been dealing with him for a couple of years now.............

I really think this is the key - Having a good relationship with your holden dealer ;)

Will let everyone know the out come next week.

Cheers
John


thats it john it all comes down to how you speak to people.


And it will be fixed in no time, if they are going to replace the clutch try and see if you can get a tex and pay the difference.

Paul
I honestly dont think you would have a problem at all.

[SSASSC1]

#### UPDATE #######

Well I got my VE back from Holden yesterday and they pulled the clutch and inspected in.

The clutch was replaced :doh:

The issue with it was that the Pressure Plate and Clutch Disk for some reason was not making 100% contact when engaged. If fact from the wear marks on both assy's it clearly showed that there was only about 50% total contact.

No wonder it was slipping.

For some reason the pressure plate was not fully applying the correct pressure / alignment to the Clutch Disk.

Hopefully now it will last a bit longer

Cheers

John

[sir.richard]

I have had same issue at least twice.

Left a SHOCKING plume of smoke behind the car. Like a burnout. Seriously.

Felt guilty as hell but was sure I hadnt done anything wrong.

Spoke to Holden and they said all was fine (riiight....) but the guy bringing my car around for me when I picked it up said he noticed the clutch was sticky.

At my 15k service I will bring it up again.

[ssv6spd]

I am noticing this on my car as well. But it only happen whenever I push it hard.

I take off in first gear fine, then change to second and when I let go of the clutch it doesn't come back up all the way. It gets stuck half way. I have to press the clutch again for it to come back all the way.


#### UPDATE #######

Well I got my VE back from Holden yesterday and they pulled the clutch and inspected in.

The clutch was replaced :doh:

The issue with it was that the Pressure Plate and Clutch Disk for some reason was not making 100% contact when engaged. If fact from the wear marks on both assy's it clearly showed that there was only about 50% total contact.

No wonder it was slipping.

For some reason the pressure plate was not fully applying the correct pressure / alignment to the Clutch Disk.

Hopefully now it will last a bit longer

Cheers

John

maybe the clutch does need replacing.

SSASSC1 has the problem in your car gone, now that the clutch has been replaced?

[EXCESSV]

any fixes to the clutch sticking issue????

is it the master cylinder, slave cylinder, clutch or something totally different???

had mine slip real bad last night at the plex.
gave it some slip to launch and foot off the clutch, go pedal all the way down and she didnt move and revs went all the way to 5000rpm+...thought i was wheel spinning so i grabbed second to find the clutch against the firewall so back off and pulled pedal off with my toes... smoke, smell, the lot!!!!
didnt come back all the way for the next two runs so i sat it out for a couple of runs but still wasnt right.

this morning parking it at work i could smell it a little still.

if its the actual clutch i will go get a another one but i wanna make sure it will fix the job...not patch it up for XXXXXkms

[SSASSC1]

EXCESSV & ssv6spd

To tell you the truth I haven't really had a chance to give my car a good "run" since the new clutch was fitted. Although I will say the clutch pickup feels allot better.

I really think there is a general issue with either the clutch pressure plate pressure/alignment or master cylinder fluid return on the VE.

Recommend you guys speak to your friendly holden dealer and get a new clutch under warranty as I did and see if the issue goes away.

It could be argued that we are abusing our cars by running them quite hard at times ( which shows up the clutch fault prematurely ), but I still feel there could a design flaw with the VE clutch in general

John



any fixes to the clutch sticking issue????

is it the master cylinder, slave cylinder, clutch or something totally different???

had mine slip real bad last night at the plex.
gave it some slip to launch and foot off the clutch, go pedal all the way down and she didnt move and revs went all the way to 5000rpm+...thought i was wheel spinning so i grabbed second to find the clutch against the firewall so back off and pulled pedal off with my toes... smoke, smell, the lot!!!!
didnt come back all the way for the next two runs so i sat it out for a couple of runs but still wasnt right.

this morning parking it at work i could smell it a little still.

if its the actual clutch i will go get a another one but i wanna make sure it will fix the job...not patch it up for XXXXXkms

[EXCESSV]

EXCESSV & ssv6spd

To tell you the truth I haven't really had a chance to give my car a good "run" since the new clutch was fitted. Although I will say the clutch pickup feels allot better.

I really think there is a general issue with either the clutch pressure plate pressure/alignment or master cylinder fluid return on the VE.

Recommend you guys speak to your friendly holden dealer and get a new clutch under warranty as I did and see if the issue goes away.

It could be argued that we are abusing our cars by running them quite hard at times ( which shows up the clutch fault prematurely ), but I still feel there could a design flaw with the VE clutch in general

Johnthanks for that John.
i was speaking to a guy last night at the drags and he was saying it looks like its a batch that has come out of the supplier where there is a misalignment.

after my tailshaft vibrations were blamed on exhaust resonance i will just get more excuses from the dealer so i will probably just fit a new clutch with slave cylinder, braided lines and high temp fluid

the clutch has been weird for a little while with sometimes screeching in 6th gear when the car is loaded up in low revs and today when parked in the garage at home the echo is emphasising another noise when its in neutral or in gear with clutch in and idleing but goes away as soon as i take off and it engages

Cheers,

Dean

[r8death]

got a ve r8 cluch was sticking halfway in then about week or so later blew the cluch went around a corner put my foot down and it just reved and slowly went then couldnt drive it went 2 the dealer they looked at the cluch and said i had been thrashing it so was not under warnty

[LSX-438]

For Sydney siders, the Russo brothers have a fix for this issue with the VE Clutch.

[vess]

This really give me the sh!ts - we all buy sports cars, SS onwards and then we are expected to drive them like excels!

It's wrong that Holden and there service teams will not support the "hard" driving of sports cars... SOFT!!!!!!

Mine has the same problem and so does my brothers SS - I keep letting them know about it and I always get the same don't go so hard or "we couldn't replicate the fault".

[ryno]

This really give me the sh!ts - we all buy sports cars, SS onwards and then we are expected to drive them like excels!

It's wrong that Holden and there service teams will not support the "hard" driving of sports cars... SOFT!!!!!!
.

Good point. In the VE Story (one that mark skaife and some lady presented) they showed some racing drivers (Brock, Tander, TKelly) giving it a bit of a thrash as well as other elements of the presentation doing the same for the testing componant.

Also there was the SS Thunder ute advert doing burnouts to create a dust storm in a paddock..

If the dealer said you thrashed it, you could almost argue that the adverts and mini presentations gave you the impression that the cars could be driven this way.. Cant really advertise a car doing nuts in a paddock then deny warranty if you did the same..Just a thought..

[Finney]

Hi all,
Just had my clutch "stick". Launched off in 1st, felt like the traction control was trying to stop rear wheels from spinning (Not sure if it was the traction control or the clutch...I suspect the clutch as the smell afterwards was all burning clutch!), went for clutch and all I could feel was return spring till about 2 inches from the floor, depressed to floor, motor revving it's guts out got it out of first but wouldn't go into to 2nd. Pumped clutch and went into 2nd and motor came back to earth. The smell of burnt clutch was rather unpleasant....Didn't get any smoke though. Drove car for another 20 minutes and then went shopping for 4 hrs (Could still smell clutch). Got back in and drove for 30 mins home. When I got out could smell burning clutch! The feel was different also to prior the problem...doesn't seem to have the feel it did before...seems somewhat lighter???

Sounds the same as others and will be contacting the dealer tomorrow and taking it in so they can smell the clutch if it still smells!

Any input appreciated!

Cheers

Finney

[Curtis-R]

got a ve r8 cluch was sticking halfway in then about week or so later blew the cluch went around a corner put my foot down and it just reved and slowly went then couldnt drive it went 2 the dealer they looked at the cluch and said i had been thrashing it so was not under warnty


mine had same prob as mentioned earlier in this post and was replaced under warranty. (20k)

I'd like to know what Russo Bro's have come up with. I guess I should contact them hey ;)

[Finney]

Hey Curtis VE-SS, Mind telling me which dealer you went to? Also who is Russo Bros?

Cheers

Finney

[handydagger]

Guys This is first post for me, First of All Hi to all,
The main thing I registered here is to catch up more information regarding my car commodore SS VE 2007...

I faced same problem mentioned in the first post my clutch pedal is sticking, and white smoke coming under the car, last time I went to the dealer They told me the clutch is burned and need replacement, the sad story that's I'm informed it's not covered under warranty and they will charge me 2600+ us $

I'm not feeling guilty cause I didn't misuse my car at all.... and still fighting with them
so all be careful... I know their is issue with the VE clutch...
their are problem of sure with the clutch pedal release.

I live in middle east and my car comes under the name of Chevrolet as the car named Lumina SS instead of Commodore.

[vess]

Hi handydagger - welcome to the forums mate.

What was the reason that the service dept said you needed to pay for the clutch replacement?

I'm going to contact Holden head office and start a case with them about the clutch (my service dept said that this may be the best way to go if I wanted it replaced under warranty). Maybe you could try something similar before shelling out for a replacement one.

Let us know how you get on with it.

[Gonadman2]

Just thought I would add to this by stating that my clutch is doing the same. I gave it some stick off the line (no slipping though), nice firm change into 2nd and... stuck clutch. Its happened before but I didn't realise at the time exactly what was happening.

[handydagger]

Hi handydagger - welcome to the forums mate.

What was the reason that the service dept said you needed to pay for the clutch replacement?

I'm going to contact Holden head office and start a case with them about the clutch (my service dept said that this may be the best way to go if I wanted it replaced under warranty). Maybe you could try something similar before shelling out for a replacement one.

Let us know how you get on with it.

I faced a situation in previous time that clutch is not fully released after shifting the gear to 2nd, once I was parking when I tried to drive after releasing my foot from the clutch pedal I realized that there was a white smoke coming under the front tires below the gear I guess... then this thing happened continuously to me in many situations that the clutch is not fully released but without smoke under the car several times.

when my car later reached 10k kilometer I take it for service I explained to the dealer about this issue... later on they told me the clutch is misused and it's not covered under warranty... I'm still on the process of arguing with my local dealer and car is held their more than 1 month.

I would be happy if someone give me e-mail contact for holden service center in your country guys so at lest I can raise the issue.

Btw this problem came to me in less than 6 month of the car purchase.
I'm really suprised of such things comes in short period.

[MclarenF1]

put mine in just then, the guy thinks its a clutch spring. he says he can't be sure but there are alot of ss's that are doing it.

[Curtis-R]

Hi handydagger - welcome to the forums mate.

What was the reason that the service dept said you needed to pay for the clutch replacement?

I'm going to contact Holden head office and start a case with them about the clutch (my service dept said that this may be the best way to go if I wanted it replaced under warranty). Maybe you could try something similar before shelling out for a replacement one.

Let us know how you get on with it.

When I spoke to the dealer about this they said they had discussed my clutch replacement with Holden Head office. They said if it happened again within the next 20k they would not cover it under warranty. I guess it just boils down to how good your relationship is with the service dept.

They did tell me it was due to "clutch abuse" and it had to be replaced when I told them of the symptoms. They also had one of their senior mechanics drive it whilst I was in the car.

However after having a brand new clutch put in, this problem does not go away.. Put the clutch under great load (i.e hard launch) and the pedal will do the same thing. For everyday driving it is fine and the pedal comes good after a short period of time.

Handydagger, there are some good aftermarket options out there and given your location you should be able to pick something up for the right price from the US. i.e LS7 clutch and a lighter flywheel. (do a search)

But like I said having it replaced under warranty will not fix this problem. Russo performance may have a fix as mentioned earlier.

Finney I am in Melb and had it replaced at Booran Holden in Cheltenham.

Cheers

[handydagger]

Tomorrow I will go to the dealer Assistant general manager and I will see what thier official reply is, I know that service guys are playing with me wanting me to be full cost instead of warranty cover.....

Clutch is not fully released means something wrong going on.....
I will keep you updated wither they will fix it for me over warranty or I will go for high performance clutch assembly... and I don't know if 2nd option is going to break the transmission and engine warranty or not... you know dealers are always not at the customers side trying to suck all money you have as much as possible....

Whatever hope 2008 will be better year for us.
I will keep in touch... happy new year for all in advance

[SS Enforcer]

... you know dealers are always not at the customers side trying to suck all money you have as much as possible....

Whatever hope 2008 will be better year for us.
I will keep in touch... happy new year for all in advance


That is not true they don't want all your money.... just most of it. :bawl:

I believe the problem is the clutch slave cylinder and the fix is an earlier model slave cylinder with a spacer fitted so it will work with the VE box.

cheers

[Finney]

Hi there SS Enforcer, When you say, "I believe the problem is the clutch slave cylinder and the fix is an earlier model slave cylinder with a spacer fitted so it will work with the VE box." I am wondering how you know this and if the fix will be done by Holden?

I actually think this should be a Holden Recall, what do others think?

Thanks

Finney

[handydagger]

I thanks all for the reply, I'm now dealing with General motor Regional office in middle east located at U.A.E

They are discussing this with my local dealer and the guy who called me from their told me he will reply me within 1 or 2 days.

I'm imaging the best thing they will do 50 % discount still more expansive than replacement performance clutch from 3rd party

I think if they don't cover it fully I will go with Curtis advice.
:jester:

[handydagger]

updates,
regarding my issue, I end up informed that's the clutch is counted as consumable part and it's not covered under warranty.

I'm going to pick my car from the dealer on 2nd January and I will fix it in my friend workshop, I will fix high performance clutch with matched new flywheel.

I will keep you guys updated regarding the clutch release issue and what's the problem exactly.

Wish all happy new year 4 hours left here tell next year :)

[ssv6spd]

It is rather annoying to hear that after the clutch has been replaced. it is still sticking :vpo:

I have had this problem for a while. The first couple of times I thought nothing of it and it went away and the fault did not replicate for a while. But now it to seems to be happening more often.

Was going to wait and mention it at the 30k service, however due to it sticking more often I want to bring it in earlier. But what will the dealer do, replace it, only for the fault to reappear again. Very annoying!!!


When I spoke to the dealer about this they said they had discussed my clutch replacement with Holden Head office. They said if it happened again within the next 20k they would not cover it under warranty. I guess it just boils down to how good your relationship is with the service dept.

They did tell me it was due to "clutch abuse" and it had to be replaced when I told them of the symptoms. They also had one of their senior mechanics drive it whilst I was in the car.

However after having a brand new clutch put in, this problem does not go away.. Put the clutch under great load (i.e hard launch) and the pedal will do the same thing. For everyday driving it is fine and the pedal comes good after a short period of time.

Handydagger, there are some good aftermarket options out there and given your location you should be able to pick something up for the right price from the US. i.e LS7 clutch and a lighter flywheel. (do a search)

But like I said having it replaced under warranty will not fix this problem. Russo performance may have a fix as mentioned earlier.

Finney I am in Melb and had it replaced at Booran Holden in Cheltenham.

Cheers

[PBoB]

Have I potentially stuffed my clutch because there is now a slight shudder present even when I take off and accelerate normally

The shudder you are feeling is most probably scoring on your flywheel, I had it in my old falcon ute when the clutch was replaced and not adjusted correctly. I would get them to check your flywheel when they do your clutch too as the shuddering won't go away with a new clutch.

[handydagger]

Hi guys,I have access to this type of performance clutch and it could handle 550 TQ

any advice...

uuu.ramclutches.com

replace uuu with www

[r8death]

hi
my clutch is bugged for the second time in about 9 moths (km) and this time i will fight the dealer so iam looking for help if eney one how has had problems with there clutch in a ve can u please send me an email with your name ,car and info of the problem and i will take them all to holden and hope to get some result not only for me but every one having this problem more people = more power
elitechris at hotmail dot com
thanks Chris

[Finney]

Hi R8 Death,


I have PM'd u!

Cheers and good luck

Finney

[r8death]

Hi R8 Death,


I have PM'd u!

Cheers and good luck

Finney

yes good stuff just waiting for some more pepole:)

[Uwish]

Has anyone contacted Russo in Sydney for the fix?

[CSP]

Has anyone contacted Russo in Sydney for the fix?

What fix? I didn't know there was a fix for the factory clutch sticking.

I have been told an edit can fix it... Anyone know if there's any truth to this?

[mickve]

The vx slave cylinder has been on my car for a long time now i think i went through 3 ve ones b4 they said lets try something different the vx one is still fine and the clutch comes off the floor now.

The clutch used to stay on the floor when it had the standard clutch and also when we put the after market one the slave cylinder helped heaps with the after market one but not sure if it will help with the standard one i think it should but not sure.

[r8death]

Has anyone contacted Russo in Sydney for the fix?

can you give me contact details of some one who has fixed the problem so i can see if i can fix mine the same way thanks

[SSASSC1]

For various reasons ( more mechanical related problems :doh: ) I ended up trading the VE SSV and I now own a new Rspec F6 Typhoon...Not a bad car at all

Must admit I do miss the v8 rumble but the new found low down Torque of the F6 more than makes up for it. The ZF speed auto works well and this car really has some balls in stock form.........Its very quick off the lights...:nyuk:

Just hope the F6 serves me better than the VE did...

I have always been a holden man and decided to give the Typhhon a try. Feels rather weird at times driving a Ford ( kid of switching from your favourite footy team )

Cheers

John



I have mentioned this in another thread but I though I would post this new threat here with the intention of getting some more discussion and interest going about this potential issue with the VE clutch......

I finally had the opportunity to well and truly give my VE SSV a good run ( ie FLOG ), and my clutch got stuck half way out when I launched and gave it a bit on the Ls1 SA cruise over the weekend.

At first I had no idea WTF was going on. Boot was planted, engine bouncing off the rev limiter, and while I was accelerating ( rather slowly ) SMOKE was pouring out from under the car. Went on for about for about 15 seconds until I figured out that I wasn't doing a burnout, but instead I was chewing the guts out of my clutch, and I proceeded to stink / smoke out my fellow cruisers behind me ( Sorry Toddler and Fitzy......hehe )

Hate to think how much meat I managed to destroy off the clutch assy whilst it was slipping. The smell and smoke was friggen disgusting.

You recon I should mention the fact to Holden my clutch is playing up ?

Have I potentially stuffed my clutch because there is now a slight shudder present even when I take off and accelerate normally

Cheers

John

[Martin_D]

Dont be shy to come and see us if you want that Ford to go quick....we still have the quickest XR6T in South Aussie....and the lads do indeed love working on them....really :cool: Notice the smile :eek:
http://doughy.theddrzone.com/smiley.jpg
If you want to take a spin in one of our 11 second Typhoons (costs just over $3K all up) then PM either Bloosted or Redline on here :cool:

[SSASSC1]

Dont be shy to come and see us if you want that Ford to go quick....we still have the quickest XR6T in South Aussie....and the lads do indeed love working on them....really :cool: Notice the smile :eek:
http://doughy.theddrzone.com/smiley.jpg
If you want to take a spin in one of our 11 second Typhoons (costs just over $3K all up) then PM either Bloosted or Redline on here :cool:




haha..yep..if I get the urge to start "tweaking" it I'll certainly keep you guys in mind...


3K for a 11 second car yeah? ..hmm... :evil:


..

[macca33]

Dont be shy to come and see us if you want that Ford to go quick....we still have the quickest XR6T in South Aussie....and the lads do indeed love working on them....really :cool: Notice the smile :eek: .....If you want to take a spin in one of our 11 second Typhoons (costs just over $3K all up) then PM either Bloosted or Redline on here :cool:

Tuna, if it were 150 years ago, you'd be the best snake-oil salesman going!!! Great plug there mate. :thumbsup: :bow:

Now, can you enlighten all of these poor buggers on a definitive fix for their VE clutch woes....other than that which would involve the purchase of a Tuna-Typhoon!!! :cool:

Cheers,

Macca

[Martin_D]

Tuna, if it were 150 years ago, you'd be the best snake-oil salesman going!!! Great plug there mate. :thumbsup: :bow:


No Macca...
'Snake Oil Sales' is when you are attempting to sell something that doesnt work or based on false claims. Plenty of that around on the forums :)
We on the other hand have the runs on the board with the Fords and still the quickest and fastest XR6T in SA :cool:

[macca33]

Well, I'll pay that one then mate. Good job. All you need now, is to go over the road and help out those poor dimwitted cardigan wearers at Mitsu HQ.............oops, too late......

Cheers,

Macca

[handydagger]

Hi guys, long time
My current stats regarding my clutch unreleased issue

I end up arguing with my current dealer for my clutch issue, I end up with miserable situation with them, they report that I misused the clutch "omg I'm not 16 years old kid who don't know how to drive manual"

I contacted my regional office FOR GENERAL MOTORS MIDDLE EAST by e-mails phone no good results.

for that and in less than 6 months of car usage I end up ordering a Stage 3 SPEC Clutch with flywheel. And I was told by my dealer that's my car is no longer under warranty If I didn't fix it in their garage "they were asking for more than 2000$ us for clutch replacment not under warranty".

After investigating about release issue with my Mechanic friend in his garage we found out that release bearing part is having a problem. The part is not available in any spare part shops in middle east so I end up ordering it through my local dealer paying more than "200 $ us" for a small circle metal release bearing.

after Fixing all things I will keep up guys updated if the with release still their.

"And sorry for my bad English writing"

[SV805]

Handydagger,

No problem with your English.....

Let us know how it all goes.

[handydagger]

:) hi guys, update

Finally clutch issue for the time being fixed 100 %
I replaced clutch + pressure plate clutch + flywheel + stock release bearing

I used SPEC stage 3 clutch + aluminum Flywheel
sticking issue arise with the stock original Pressure plate which it was not powerful enough to release itself to normal position , cylinder + release bearing was not the problem here

the pressure plate was too heavy over the cylinder and the release bearing as my friend"the mechanic" assume...

after turning on the engine first time driving I released that clutch pedal is like 5-6 times lighter than original "thanks for the new light pressure plate" and pedal movement range is shorter up to 50 % than the original range

shifting is smoother, faster and lighter,, while I didn't push it to max tell now "as it need 400-500 km till the clutch fit perfect".

give me couple of days, hoping that no more release issue their.
I have picture of the old kit if you are interested "burned clutch disc and bad shape pressure plate".

[jaykay]

Thanks handydagger, post up your pics please...:bow:

[Driver Dave]

New Clutch!!! what did you need to do to get that (dusty knees)?

My VE GTS had the clutch removed after two workshop visits at 10k and 15k
(after I spoted the clutch fluid leak) - Their fix, was to wash the friction plate in petrol!!! :spew: When I took it up with the service manager he explained they had "washed it twice" so it should now be good. I havent had an issue since, though wonder if this will have shortened the life?

Still these guys were better than the dealer I bought my VYII R8 from (shall remain namless till my lawyers have finished explaining the rules to them) I caught them filling my car with a cheep nasty GTX oil and charging me for Mobile 1 at around $100 for oil alone. I gave them the chance to put it right, showed them the indipendent lab tests (x2) that I'd had conducted and they told me to talk to their lawyers:flipoff: New clutch?? Dusty Knees!:jester:

BTW I'm a happy go lucky guy really, hope to spend the legal settlement on getting the GTS into the 11's then:):):)and they can :bow:my ass

Driver Dave;1240841]New Clutch!!! what did you need to do to get that (dusty knees)?

My VE GTS had the clutch removed after two workshop visits at 10k and 15k
(after I spoted the clutch fluid leak) - Their fix, was to wash the friction plate in petrol!!! :spew: When I took it up with the service manager he explained they had "washed it twice" so it should now be good. I havent had an issue since, though wonder if this will have shortened the life?

Still these guys were better than the dealer I bought my VYII R8 from (shall remain namless till my lawyers have finished explaining the rules to them) I caught them filling my car with a cheep nasty GTX oil and charging me for Mobile 1 at around $100 for oil alone. I gave them the chance to put it right, showed them the indipendent lab tests (x2) that I'd had conducted and they told me to talk to their lawyers:flipoff: New clutch?? Dusty Knees!:jester:

BTW I'm a happy go lucky guy really, hope to spend the legal settlement on getting the GTS into the 11's then:):):)and they can :bow:my ass[/QUOTE]

[alkuku]

John,

Dont be alarmed,this is common with the ve's,nearly every ve i have had in the shop has done this,we have been working with pete a textralia to tryin cure this issue.


regards sonny
you are RIGHT man

[handydagger]

couple of weeks I'm driving, no issue tell now, better acceleration and more tq I guess more wheel burn at 2nd shift.

[PESSV]

Hi All,

I'm new to the site. Recently bought an 07 VESSV, stock with only a K&N element and factory 20's and 25,000kms. Luv it apart from the POS clutch.

This seems to be where most of the talk is about the clutch even though there is some in drive train. (Maybe where it should be but still).

Mine cooked itself last week also. No point talking about how other than saying it shouldn't have .(True!). Anyway, seen a lot of the reports and fixes on the site, very helpful. I'm waiting on a reply from Holden on the warranty so won't say too much about the crap I was fed at the dealership about what this mysterious clutch like smell might be. Obviously not the first one they had seen and I'm sure I wasn't wearing my "I know nothing about cars" shirt. Still drives OK so they probably won't do anything.

I'll keep you posted on developments with Holden warranty. Even if they do come to the party, I’ll put in an aftermarket, wrap the new factory bits in cotton wool, put it in a box labelled "Fragile - Handle with Care" and keep it as a spare.

Such a pity, great motor, great box and they put a toy clutch setup in between. Surely a real clutch wouldn't have broken the bank on the billion dollar baby. I think it was deliberate, aimed at those who want a V8 but not a V8 clutch pedal, all I can say is - HARDEN UP.

I'm sure they'll put a real clutch in them one day. In the meantime I've joined the ever growing band of VE owners in search of the clutch of my dreams without taking out a second mortage.

[CSP]

According to my local dealer, Holden and HSV both know there is an issue with the stock clutch and are apparently working on a fix. In the mean time, they have ordered me a Walkinshaw clutch that will be installed as a warranty job as that is what they are doing to fix the problems some people are experiencing at the moment.

That's locally anyway.

[Djbarnstar]

According to my local dealer, Holden and HSV both know there is an issue with the stock clutch and are apparently working on a fix. In the mean time, they have ordered me a Walkinshaw clutch that will be installed as a warranty job as that is what they are doing to fix the problems some people are experiencing at the moment.

That's locally anyway.
Hey Dude,
I too have clutch woes - Will be going in at 45K (42k now). Is your dealer in Phillip? And who did you talk to there? As I want the same service
Cheers

[PESSV]

According to my local dealer, Holden and HSV both know there is an issue with the stock clutch and are apparently working on a fix. In the mean time, they have ordered me a Walkinshaw clutch that will be installed as a warranty job as that is what they are doing to fix the problems some people are experiencing at the moment.

That's locally anyway.

That is interesting. The fact that the dealer has admitted a problem and that they are replacing it with something other than stock sets a precedence. Mind saying who the local dealer is?

Does the Wilkingshaw fix include the Slave/pedal return fix?

[The_Senator]

Indeed.. EVERY SINGLE DEALER i have taken mine to comes back with "no fault found" or "Unable to replicate fault"..

And they have ALWAYS "Never heard of that before" when told about clutch sticking..

6 dealers - 6 same answers.. So i have come to the conclusion that it must be all in my head... It's not sticking at all.. It's and anti-acceleration device fitted at the factory..

If anyone does hear of a fix / solution from Holden - i am sure plenty of people will want to know about it..

[PESSV]

Just had the standard reply from Holden.

"Vehicle drives OK. No fault found" etc etc etc. Quote "There is no other clutch assembly that I’m aware of supplied by GMH other than the one that is in the vehicle".

Anyway, good luck to anyone who does get something better under warranty.

I'll keep doing the homework on replacements. No rush I suppose, It does drive OK, I just don't trust it.

Anyone know who is makes the factory setup?
Also anyone know of an RPM kit for the VE or had experience with them in the past?

[LSX-438]

Just had the standard reply from Holden.

"Vehicle drives OK. No fault found" etc etc etc. Quote "There is no other clutch assembly that I’m aware of supplied by GMH other than the one that is in the vehicle".

Anyway, good luck to anyone who does get something better under warranty.

I'll keep doing the homework on replacements. No rush I suppose, It does drive OK, I just don't trust it.

Anyone know who is makes the factory setup?
Also anyone know of an RPM kit for the VE or had experience with them in the past?

I have heard of Holden customers having their OEM/Factory clutches replaced - by Walkinshaw performance - with the LS7 clutch. Call the Russo workshop for details (perhaps Chris or Justin can give you some feedback on how the LS7 replacement has held up - or otherwise) you could perhaps to have an LS7 or Tex fitted by Russo and save some hassle...

[[MET]]

Im sick of Holden wasting my F*&king time RE the clutch I've complained EVERY service and the last service 30K kms I asked for it to be replaced and all they did was tighten 2 bolts and say that should fix it... not to mention all the wear and tear it has suffered over 30K kms because of the problem!! not happy at all.... I'll be trading it for an auto HSV early next year anyway so meh...

[jai]

I am reading this thread on the day of my 3000km service on my GTS. My car has already been back due to clutch issues (not disengaging properly in my opinion) and again I am going to mention it as its just not right. I can hear bearing noise already with the pedal in, and smells still after giving a bit of a hoot. To me this is not normal.

I rebuilt a gearbox in my old Nissan Drift Car, did a light flywheel and new clutch install myself, and never had any smells from that (Xtreme) and I absused crap out of it... and it was simply resiliant, and was daily driven over 25k KM per year.

So after reading all this I wonder for me, what is the point in fighting this with Holden if my results may end up being the same as you guys... "Normal Operation, no fault found" etc - and simply replace it with something that can hold up to the punishment I want to give the car.

I havent got the pedal issue that is described here, but I must admit I have often thought to myself that the pedal feel frequently changes, ie it comes up quicker than other times at random times.

So I will mention it, but I dont expect the damn standard clutch to be any good. IF it costs me another $2k for something better then im prepared to pay it if it makes me happy. I will hand deliver the old clutch to holden in a box with a love letter.

I may aswell continue crying... 28 days ago I paid $80k for this car, today I could have got it for $62k!

JK

[[MET]]

Damn 80K! I would be crying too! they can be had for a tad under 60K! drive away... Im about to buy one!

[jai]

A brand new MY09 GTS for under $60k? Are you sure?

[PESSV]

As I said before, good luck to anyone who gets anything other than stock under warranty. Be it Wilkinshaw (LS7) or anything else. May not solve the problem though based on some of the other threads on this subject.

Still haven't been able to find out what the stock clutch is and who makes it. I think that would help to narrow down the problem and definately be one to avoid like the plague. Any feedback on what this thing is would be appreciated. Sounds like lots of people have pulled them out, must be something to give them away.

[bonners]

The very first post in this thread made mention of the pedal getting stuck. This happened to me about a month after purchase. It happended when I took off from the lights while in second. It finally let go and then was fine. there was however, no smell. I mentioned it to the service guy I use and he said yeah we know there is a problem

Anyway, lately it has been getting a little sticky again. But there is this awful clunk type noise that happens when taking your foot off the clutch. Mine is in at Holden at the moment for other things and I said I wanted that looked at (was to be there for 2 days) and they rang me yesterday to say they wanted to drop the box and wouldn't be ready till today.

Hmmm. Wait and see. Will post the results.

[RyanIAm]

Bonners, I have that clunk too, will be getting looked at very soon!

[Curtis-R]

As I said before, good luck to anyone who gets anything other than stock under warranty. Be it Wilkinshaw (LS7) or anything else. May not solve the problem though based on some of the other threads on this subject.

Still haven't been able to find out what the stock clutch is and who makes it. I think that would help to narrow down the problem and definately be one to avoid like the plague. Any feedback on what this thing is would be appreciated. Sounds like lots of people have pulled them out, must be something to give them away.

Since putting the LS7 clutch the pedal has never stuck.. I've had two stock clutches in mine.. they worked fine for everyday driving, but could not handle a few good launches..

[bonners]

I have just had a phonecall from the dealer stating that I'm not getting my car back till they are happy. It's been three days and while I'm unhappy I look at it that they are trying to get this car right. hopefully this will be the end of the drams. Exhasut, tune and lowering were supposed to happen this week but looks like it wont. Would rather it be fixed properly.

[PESSV]

OK got it, the LS7 works fine. The flywheel has to be part of the transplant?

No closer to knowing what's in there now. Anyone?

[bonners]

After a week, I finally have my car back. Apart from the other things which I have outlined elsewhere, this problem was inspected as well.

I was initially told by the dealer that they did know of an issue with the clutch and there was a tehnical bulletin about it but couldn't pin point the cause. Apparently the box cam out and then they did what ever inspection etc they needed to do. I'm not sure at this poin exactly what they did.

They did tell me that they had to take the gearbox out and inspect the clutch. They did say the couldn't replicate the problem after all the work had been done

Now, when I first drove it out this afternoon, it felt really weird compared to when I used to drive. But after 30 mins of driving, I'm used to and it feels a lot better. Still a little lumpy but somehow tighter if that makes sense.

They said they were looking at another guys car before they ripped mine apart again and were confident that the problem is the slave cylinder rather than the clutch plate. As I said, they didn't explain exactly what was done, so I don't know if lines were bled etc. I have to keep an eye on it. And I will admit that even though the Ripshifter still has a weird feeling as far as I am concerned, I felt it was a little different as well. I remember reading a quote once that the Ripshifter was faster than the persons car. That's almost what this felt like.

[HYMEY]

the stock slave is a big issue for fluid return but having said that, I never have had my clutch stick until I replaced the fluid. At first it was good but after giving the car some stick. The pedal would be very hard to push in (most probably from fluid getting hot). One would presume that the slave is exposed to a lot more heat in its location. I was using supermarket brand dot 4 fluid. Over time I would start to lose pedal on 3rd to 4th shift. The fluid would get hot and would turn to shit. I realise that installing a conventional single mass aftermarket clutch and flywheel and early slave would improve my issue but instead I removed the over centre spring from the pedal...big improvement. Secondly even after changing to fresh fluid again I would get the typical heavy clutch after a run from fluid getting hot. So I put in some Motul Dot 5.1 fluid(compatible with our cars) and no more clutch issues.

[Blown 540]

If you have a shitty VE slave, rip it out and put a VZ one,bigger bearing ,
surface contact,ect ect.Not a big expense , try it on with the dealer they may buy it:jester:.

Or just do it,stick a good clutch in while your there.:)

[HYMEY]

the stock slave is a big issue for fluid return but having said that, I never have had my clutch stick until I replaced the fluid. At first it was good but after giving the car some stick. The pedal would be very hard to push in (most probably from fluid getting hot). One would presume that the slave is exposed to a lot more heat in its location. I was using supermarket brand dot 4 fluid. Over time I would start to lose pedal on 3rd to 4th shift. The fluid would get hot and would turn to shit. I realise that installing a conventional single mass aftermarket clutch and flywheel and early slave would improve my issue but instead I removed the over centre spring from the pedal...big improvement. Secondly even after changing to fresh fluid again I would get the typical heavy clutch after a run from fluid getting hot. So I put in some Motul Dot 5.1 fluid(compatible with our cars) and no more clutch issues.

http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html

Here is a bit of info on clutch issues,typical from the design of the gm clutch but old mate here found fluid was his number one cause in drag racing 10 sec corvettes. He has retained stock dot 4 fluid and replaces regularly but I switched to the dot 5.1 because its ok on your clutch line seals and takes twice as much heat. Works awesome in my race bike too. No more hard pedal.

[chrispaull]

I'am having the same problems with my Uk spec vxr8, clutch staying on the floor.. Now I have a little evidence we shall see what the dealer comes up with. I have changed the fluid a couple of times but it was intresting reading the previous thread....

[HYMEY]

pull the over centre spring out. Get a flat blade screw driver and pop the spring out attached to the pedal. That will help the sticking issue. The spring assists in holding the pedal to the floor and if you have bled the clutch it will be obvious if its still attached.

cheers

[DALER]

At the dealership I work at we have 3 right now here with clutch issues and with all 3 the flywheels is not a perfectly flat surface. the clutch itself is ok for a std one showing signs of burn but it's because of the flywheel these 3 cars are here and finally holden has excepted the claim.

[HYMEY]

That could be a problem... Possibly causing clutch slippage but I would be looking deeper then that. A friends Maloo did it from the show room floor and the flywheel is ok. I think its more to do with hydraulics and spring. I have yet to see a Holden dealer solve it, have to think outside the square a bit and it envolves replacing/removing factory parts to the drawing spec. So once someone up above comes up with a permanent fix and brings out a letter head stating the issue and and engineers approval to make the changes us guys at LS1 au will be forever going round in circles and seeking for help elsewhere.

[Bowtie Pilot]

Hey guys,

My MY09 SSV is less than three months old and tonight it sits at the Holden workshop with the clutch 1/3 of the way out from the firewall. After the car was sitting all night at work, came out today to go home and the clutch was stuck against the firewall. After a bit of fiddling, it came out to 1/3 of normal travel distance.

Diagnosis allegedly is a leaking master cylinder. I informed them of all these posts and similar issues, also another member suggested in a another thread that Holden were aware of it and a technical bulletin was issued. They denied any knowledge of such a circular. Can anyone confirm when this was allegedly circulated by Holden?

I am so annoyed that a car such as this can have an ongoing problem and it not be rectified. The VE model is now two years old! Stop buying parts that are obviously sub-standard and fit parts that are upto the task. I have told them I don't want my car back unless it's right. This is only a month after the car had the 3000km inspection and was back in there a week later getting the clip in the sunglass holder replaced as it wouldn't stay shut. Again poor quality cheap parts :soap:

I have a 2004 Subaru Forester XT luxury with 120,000km's and it never has missed a beat. I have waited for my SS'V for a while and to have this happen is really dissapointing.

On a positive note, the catback exhaust fitted on Monday by Liverpool Exhaust sounds great and after Christmas the extractors, high flow cats and OTRCAI and tune go on. Something to look forward too I hope.

Bowtie. :vpo:

[bonners]

That's crap. My dealer said they knew about it and I'm pretty certain he said there was a bulletin about it but didn't know what the fix was. The performance shop where my car sits at the moment told me it was crap also and they had seen the bulletin.

My car appears to have had the same investigation yours is having (box out) but they can't pin point it. They are of the belief it is the slave cylinder

[Bowtie Pilot]

Hey all,

Just collected the car after they replaced the seals and hoses to the slave cylinder in the clutch. I go and get in the car and all of the plastic cowling under the dash board is hanging down. I was so happy....not.

After the numerous apologies and having it rectified, I drove away and the car feels fine again.

Bowtie.

[HX76LS2]

I have had my clutch stick to the floor once, less than 24 hours after picking the car up. I was giving it a boot full off the line and stuck to the floor. No smoke from it or the tyres just a lot of engine revs. Can remember what it did to fix it, bit shocked at the time. It was almost like it got suck in and held there till i backed off the revs. Since then i haven't had a problem (1 week later). I have in the past heard of clutches getting suckin and staying while the engine is spinning at high rpm so i just put it down to this. I will have to keep and eye on this as the missus will be driving it most of the time.

Stu.

[nthnbeachesguy]

Having fun with my clutch at the moment as well. Mines a bit different of an issue and I think the clutch is just about shot. Basically 2nd, 3rd or 4th gear when it is fine up till about 3500rpm and occassionally if you got over 2/3 throttel is just slips and gets to redline real quick. No smoke or anything like that but after that the pedal is like concrete, hard to push in again and then after that change it takes up really close to the floor and the last 50% of pedal travel from the floor is really light and springy.

Had a few mods done to the car, full exhaust, CAI and tune so I was expecting this at some point, right before Xmas was not the ideal time. Took it into the closest dealer where I Have had it serviced a couple of times here bayside in Melb and asked them about it. The mechanic went for a drive with me to test it out. Had the distinct impression that I was the "enemy" for want of a better description and he was steeling himself to go through the usual not warranty spiel.

Guy gets in the car starts it and immediately says you have done a few mods to this eh? as the car is pretty loud. Told him briefly about em and off we went. Sure enough 2nd and 3rd slipp badly when he tromps it. He says thats bad but doesn't think it will be covered under warranty, it's a wear and tear item especially with the amount of kms on the car. I had no idea 34000kms was normal wear and tear for a clutch especially if it'fs"fit for purpose".

Get back to the dealer and I mention this to him as well as that on the car forums there are a lot of stories about the clutch in the VE slipping and staying on the floor, slave cylinders and clutch fluid and his opinion. He says they havent had any clutch issues and it's probably cause I have been giving it a hard time. Tell him about my VY and how it blew the clutch and it was replaced under warranty and the that as I had treated this car a good deal better than that one I had expected the clutch to last better.

The mechanic said they would have to drop the gearbox and have a look at the clutch and then see what the issue was and then if they decided it was warranty they would replace it he thought there was a 99% chance it would be refused. I told him, look if i'm going to pay for it I would just go get myself a mal wood or a Tex as it's up to the job but if possible leading up to xmas I was happy to get a stock warranty done till I had a bit of coin to do it properly.

As it stands now I'm waiting on a phone call to see what their opinion is. IMO I thought they would just say no straight away due to mods but thought it would be worth a shot to try and get it done under warranty as a stop gap. The thing that kinda got me though was the attitude of the mechanic, I was watching him think through the standard line and he didn't even look like he convinced himself about some of it. Got a bit of a blank look when I mentioned mal woods and textralia clutches as well which I found kinda weird. Might be just me but I thought guys that worked on one make of car all day would have an interest in the performance models and the aftermarket bits and pieces. He was coming around at the end of the conversationand seemed like a decent enough guy, maybe there's a lot of internal pressure with all the shit going on or something I dunno.

Anyways will update if and when I hear back from them.

[EXCESSV]

nthnbeachesguy:
what u describe is a worn clutch.
the slip to redline from 3500rpm and the change in take up point etc...its a fcuked clutch.
mine did that in every gear with 1/4throttle at 22,000km after i had the cam put it. the clutch was fine for my bolt ons of mafless, otr, exhaust, etc...but couldnt handle the torque of the cam.

new clutch for u unfortunately and if the dealer does take it out for a look they will see its worn..not covered under warranty. and u will be charged for labour etc.

best look at what ur future mods are, how and where ur gonna use ur car and start researching into a new clutch.


other guys re clutch sticking to the floor:
as blown408chev has said....biggest hint to a fix is the SLAVE cylinder
the VE being a bigger, heavier car and they have gone with a new shitty wimpy pathetic one.
a VY/VZ one will help the problem.

also a better clutch will help

and some other tinkering that SQP and Chipmaster did to mine to cure the hydralic issue which is the clutch sticking to the floor in the VEs
no idea what it was as i left the car in there hands at that time but all i know is since then it hasnt stuck with all the extra power it has and all the punishment it has copped at drags, tracks, etc

[RED R8]

Just fit a Option 3 Mal Wood....very good option..

[nthnbeachesguy]

EXCESSV I figured as much but seriously 34000 and it's buggered, only had about 12000kms with the full zorst OTRCAI and tune. Thats pretty crappy really all things considered especially seeing as a lot of that was hwy driving. The first time I had the clutch replaced in the VY both master and slave cylinders had let go and there was clutch fluid running down the pedal, they still replaced it under warranty.

Had the call from the service guy and he was saying I can book it in to get looked at but the regional warranty manager wanted to have a look and they would then decide if it was warranty or not. If it's covered no dramas they replace it but if not it's out of my pocket and another stock clutch goes in.

Explained to him that the only way i would get a stock clutch put in was if it was under warranty and I don't want to be paying them to tell me it's not covered. I put forward to him the idea that regardless of if it's covered under warranty or not they replace it with an LS7 clutch.

As it's a GM part he was happy to find out about the cost involved and came to an agreement of sorts that we could do the LS7 clutch regardless of warranty. He's going to get back to me Monday with a price for the LS7 and also about the prospect of me paying the difference in cost between stock and the LS7 and the labour is covered by warranty. Should be interesting to see the outcome.

What have people been paying for the LS7 clutch?

Actually was speaking to Chev about the Mal Wood and that is actually my first choice, had a tex in my old car and didn't like it's carpark manners. Not trying to open a can of worms, its just my opinion and the 3 cars I have been in that had them all did the same thing. After driving Curtis' cammed VE with the LS7 clutch I have had that as another good option as well. As far as future mods are concerened there might be a cam somewhere down the line but thats a way off at the moment, getting very interested in real estate and will be going down that route before a cam.

[ROGRSS]

Has anybody removed the spring from clutch ??? did it make much of a difference ???

[EXCESSV]

Has anybody removed the spring from clutch ??? did it make much of a difference ???yes and yes

see what i posted in the other thread u asked about

[PESSV]

Finally got an email from Holden Customer Assistance about 2 weeks ago. They regret any inconvenience my problem may have caused. That made me feel heaps better about my POS clutch. I was advised the State Business Rep would be in touch (sounds impressive).

He rang today. Standard "They are not aware of any clutch issues", "They could not replicate the problem" etc. "there have been some slave cylinder replacements but there would be no recall as it is not safety related". Every time I raised any of the issues discussed in this forum, I got the standard response verbatim. I think he told me they were unable to replicate the problem approx 36 times in a 10 minute conversation. Pretty much the standard P**S **F we're not listening and we don't really care.

They have no intention of doing anything about this unless it is safety related. There are no service bulletins relating to these issues according to him and no intended action. He should know with an impressive title like that surely.

He was going to pass on my comments on the quality of the OEM components and engineering inadequacies. That will teach them and I bet the CEO of GMH is reading my comments as I write this. And my threat that I will never buy another Holden must have them shaking in their boots.

Got it off my chest anyway.

[PhantomVE]

Hey PESSV,

I have had pretty much the same problem with my clutch (although I drive the VE SV6). A guy from another forum pointed me to this thread so thought I'd put my 10c worth in as may(??) be able to help you...

I took the car into my local Holden service dept here in SA just before Christmas and left it with the Service Manager for the day. The service manager is a great guy, drives a VE Clubsport and said that he has the same problem (clutch getting stuck half way up on release when the revs are high) they have developed a fix for this so im told (mainly seen in the 06 - 07 models apparently) which will be out early this year. He has heard of the LS1 forum and was aware of this article! He's going to put my name down on the RIO (I think that's what he called it - some sort of purchase order i guess) for when the new parts are available. They say it's the pressure plate not releasing. The manager said he plays around with racing cars and said he reckons that it's got to do with angle of the pressure plate and centrifugal force on release (hence it happens at higher rev range), they say its not the salve/master cylinders as they have seen a few of these sticky clutches and checked them out - no leaks, even bled a few clutches and that hasn't fixed it.

Interesting to note though, he even said that after he bought the Clubby, he had taken it to Melbourne and on the way back had given it some stick and that's when he noticed his own clutch sticking. He has even said to Holden that we dont buy these cars and NOT expect to give them a bit and said, and I quote, "thats what we pay our money for!" Here, here. Good to have a Service Manager who understands.....looks like a fix is on the way.

[bonners]

I'm not real cluey on the setup but it has been explained to me like this (this is how I interperated it anyway). The slave cylinder is plastic and sits against the gearbox. The solution, is to make it similar to a VZ with the use of a 10mm spacer between the slave and the gearbox.

If Iim incorrect in my statement I accept to be corrected. I guess what I'm getting at tis there is a fix, but apparently if you do this it will void warranty.

I'm also interested in the LS7 clutch price.

[ls3r8]

They have no intention of doing anything about this unless it is safety related.

I've had this happen to me a few times, I'm sure taking a fair bit of meat off my clutch in the process, and I think that this IS safety related. I had to pull over on the side of the freeway today for a few moments, and when I attempted to jump back onto the road the f*cking clutch stuck on me. If I'd really needed to get moving in a hurry I might have been killed.

I didn't dump the clutch at high revs, just swapped the clutch and accelerator fairly quickly, as you do in a car such as this. The engine almost instantly hit the limiter, while forward progress was minimal. The smoke from the back and the smell almost brought a tear to my eye! I shifted into second gear and it engaged as normal, but if I'd pulled straight onto the road expecting to get up to speed very quickly, I could have caused a big accident. This is definitely safety related.

[PESSV]

Ive had the clutch slip a few times now. I tow a boat occasionally now and pulling it up a boat ramp is a joke. I'll have to do something about it. May have something on Holden to make them drop the box, the release bearing is now noisy. That must be a warranty issue that they can't get out of. While it's out, I'll try to have the new cluth chucked in even if I pay that part of the labour.

Still deciding the clutch. I have asked this before with no response. Will the LS7 bolt onto the existing flywheel or does it need to be changed? Chances are that it might bolt up.

And has anyone had any experience with the Clutch Industries RPM kits for these? They look OK and good value. They do 5 options for the VE (3 performance options) Just wondering if anyones tried one. They say they are the control clutch for the V8 utes so they might be reasonable. Wondering if there OEM replacement might be the OEM clutch that's in it now?

[TIR33D]

Ive had the clutch slip a few times now. I tow a boat occasionally now and pulling it up a boat ramp is a joke. I'll have to do something about it. May have something on Holden to make them drop the box, the release bearing is now noisy. That must be a warranty issue that they can't get out of. While it's out, I'll try to have the new cluth chucked in even if I pay that part of the labour.

Still deciding the clutch. I have asked this before with no response. Will the LS7 bolt onto the existing flywheel or does it need to be changed? Chances are that it might bolt up.

And has anyone had any experience with the Clutch Industries RPM kits for these? They look OK and good value. They do 5 options for the VE (3 performance options) Just wondering if anyones tried one. They say they are the control clutch for the V8 utes so they might be reasonable. Wondering if there OEM replacement might be the OEM clutch that's in it now?

I cant tell you which one I have but yes I have one. I had a rep call me and I told him I could want to drive 500hp thru it, dump it at the drags, circuit but still managable.

I received a clutch with 5 or 6 pucks rather than a full face. It has taken alot of punishment but I never upgraded the slave. Car is currently getting some work done and have been told its the slave - probably. He gonna have a look. Apparently its not completely engaging/disengaging. Can have troubles finding 1st and reverse at idle.

The clutch aint to bad but it has been a bit of a handful to be truthful - I think it equates to a Z grip. Can shudder when trying to idle off, likes a bit of revs.

But you can drop the clutch easily - I am ashamed to say that rears only last 8000kms and I tell all I am not a hoon.

Get the car back next week some time - will see if its better

[PESSV]

Hey TIR33D, thanks for the feed back, I wouldn't be going for a puck style, they can suffer from the symptoms you describe on the street. It would give you plenty of bite. Their other kits look OK.

Your slave woes are not uncommon. If you changed the pressure plate, it just couldn't cope. There is so much about the VE slave on this site (as well as clutch's) so I find PhantomVE's comments interesting. Quote " they have developed a fix for this so im told (mainly seen in the 06 - 07 models apparently) which will be out early this year." Does that mean they have finally admitted there's a problem and there may be at least a service bulletin? I hope your Service Manager is right and something is happening.

I got onto CI (the old PRB) who do the RPM kits. Asked about clamp loads of the kits, didn't get an answer. Also asked if they do supply the factory clutch and pressure plates. No comment. Can't say I blame anyone for not wanting to put their name to the POS but I think I have my answer as to the supplier of the factory clutch and pressure plate. I thought it might be, theres not too many options here that could do the volumn and price and they have a long association with Holden. I wonder about the slave?

To be fair, I suppose just because the factory clutch is crap, doesn't mean the upgraded kits are. The stock clutch plate material, springing etc and pressure plate clamp loads would be something specified by Holden. Might have performed the same regardless of who manufactured it. I am leaning more towards the clamp load of the stock pressure plate being the root cause of the VE woes. Reduce the force required and the slave wouldn't need to be as tough and could be made out of cheaper materials, another cost saving. There was a big focus on a soft pedal feel and they may have gone a bit too far. To be fair again, the stock clutch plate may not be that bad, just not enough force on it. It would be a pretty weak pressure plate I suspect and it could probably be increased by heaps (with a better slave) and the pedal would still be OK.

[R8SVton]

Hi to all,
Ive been having the same problem with my clutch on my VE and it has been approved by holden to replace it under warranty.
I was told by my Holden service manager that they have been instructed by the Holden Tech Team to replace it with a VZ 6ltr clutch complete with flywheel etc...

[PESSV]

Hi to all,
Ive been having the same problem with my clutch on my VE and it has been approved by holden to replace it under warranty.
I was told by my Holden service manager that they have been instructed by the Holden Tech Team to replace it with a VZ 6ltr clutch complete with flywheel etc...

I had been wondering if the whole VZ set-up would go in, it sounds like it does. The last of the VZ's should have been the identical block and box apart from ratios, shift and syncro's.

So can those of us suffering VE clutch woes can start pushing their nearest dealer? Is it something official from Holden to all dealers because there have been many reports on here about what various dealers have said and done. I am going to ask the question of mine, he has denied all knowledge of VE clutch problems and anything reportedly said by other dealers on this site in the past. It seems like the luck of the draw as to who says what and if they recoginise and rectify.

[alkuku]

Take my advise my friend replace it with ZO6 from 2006-2009 clutch & disc
& flywheel and everything you will see the diffrent

[PESSV]

Hi to all,
Ive been having the same problem with my clutch on my VE and it has been approved by holden to replace it under warranty.
I was told by my Holden service manager that they have been instructed by the Holden Tech Team to replace it with a VZ 6ltr clutch complete with flywheel etc...

Tried my local dealer. Same response "Nothing wrong with the VE clutch or slave". And "Holden Tech have said or released nothing" unquote.

Asked him about my noisy release bearing. Apparently it only qualifies as noisy if you can hear it inside the car with the doors closed. I wonder if that's with the stereo up loud as well? Getting a bit tired of this turkey and might try to find someone who hasn't had the Holden frontal lobotomy.

Anyone know of a dealer in Perth that doesn't talk crap?

[SV346]

Holden could almost make their new slogan "could not rectify fault", or one they like "not covered under warranty"

[wog13]

The spigot bearing has gone on my SS. However Holden have already replaced the clutch once, so this time I will wait till the noise is unbearable before taking it in. Lets see them say "can't replicate problem"

[ratskin]

hey guys. i think i know what this problem is.
i built a ve r8 tourer wagon race car using fairly standard driveline.
in the second practice session the clutch pedal stuck to the floor and wouldnt come up.
after pulling the box out what had happened was the standard slave cylinder has a plastic sleeve round the guts between the thrust bearing and the piston.
what happens is at high speed centrifical force pushes the clutch fingers out (putting load and the thrust bearing) thus after continus amounts of high speeds and a bit of abuse, they melt the shit out of the sleeve, then the next application of the clutch pushes the piston too far up the bore and blows the seal. hence no pedal.

A mate of mine had the same trouble in his maloo. doin 200plus out the back of geelong for a while, time to slow down, pedal stuck to the floor.
woops. its a long walk home from bum **** no where lol
same drama.

what i did in the wagon and ute (as advised from Mal Wood automotive) use a factory VZ slave cylinder. they are a full aluminium construction with a thrust bearing with almost twice the suface area of the tiny ve unit.
the only thing is that the VZ unit is a shorter body.
this isnt a drama all you have to do is space it out from the face of the gear box.

DIRECTIONS TO MEASURE YOUR THRUST BEARING THROW OUT

1. using a flat edge across your bell housing whice is bolted to your gearbox.
measure down to the face of your thrust bearing.
do this in four spots and then work out your average.

2. using your flat edge, put it across your clutch fingers on your engine,
measure down to the mating surface of your block where the bell would
usually fit. do this in four spots and work out your average.

3. subtract one number from the other and there you go!! the difference is
your crush or preload.

the ideal pre load on your thrust bearing is between 15-17mm.

5. using your numbers add or subtract some spacers to give you the
15-17mm of pre load.
making spaces i just used 3mm think ally disks, steel will be fine too, i think i ended up with around 20mm of spaces roughly.
all cars will be different depending on clutch pressure plate and clutch wear
the advantage of having the shorter body will also give you a better pedal feel!!!!!! GOOD LUCK. (ITS NOT AS HARD AS IT SOUNDS :)

[Curtis-R]

Bang on Ratskin... nice write up mate..

[mikeparkinson]

Thanks Ratskin, nice info.

My car is on the hoist at the stealership as i type having the gear box removed for a leaking slave cyl, will have a chat to them about it.

Coz i drive my car in the city allot so there is allot of stop start after while it cant get hard to change gears, hardest is when trying to get back into first gear.

After having the clutch pedel stick one ive never pushed it hard again.

[ls3r8]

hey ratskin, reading your post it sounds like the clutch pedal in you and your mates cars is getting stuck down altogether, leaving the car undriveable. Is that the case?? All I have to do to sort mine out is give the pedal a kick and it's all OK, which makes me think that it's not blowing the seal as it does in your case. Do you reckon I'm just having early symptoms of your issue?

[NuffNuff]

my gear box in my VE SS is rattling pretty loud when in neutral (can hear it inside the car with the radio on), the clutch goes in and its quiet, slips a lot a little, even under deceleration from higher RPM it slips and the shudder in 1st and 2nd gear at low speed .. terrible it makes my passengers sick and its embarrassing!

pretty safe to say something in there is shagged and its definitely noticeable, i wont be getting any of this "could not replicate the problem" bs as mine happens when its warm or cold and under any conditions, the blokes at my dealership seem to be alright so i'll give them a ring tomorrow and let you guys know how it goes, probably book it in for Tuesday next week if possible...

[ratskin]

hey ratskin, reading your post it sounds like the clutch pedal in you and your mates cars is getting stuck down altogether, leaving the car undriveable. Is that the case?? All I have to do to sort mine out is give the pedal a kick and it's all OK, which makes me think that it's not blowing the seal as it does in your case. Do you reckon I'm just having early symptoms of your issue?

hey yea to me that sounds like early symptoms. thats how it started for us, hard to change into gears as the piston wasnt applying full pressure to the pressure plate because the plastic sleeve was slipping past the thrust bearing.
It started as hard gear change then got worse and worse over a period of time until the plastic sleeve went right past the thrust bearing.

the plastic sleeve is approx 25mm deep. when i pulled the other one out i could see where it stepped a few mm down the plastic and stopped, then a couple more, and a couple more mm so on until it shit itself.
all so i read someone else was saying about a leaky slave cylinder. that could be the seal nearly over extended or the bleed on those. they are pretty shitty units.
they are also the worst things to try and bleed too haha.
i made a remote bleed for the wagon using -4 braided line and a bleed fitting, making a bracket that bolted to a tag on the gearbox where the secondary
O2 sensor mounts

[dutchman1986]

VX3-8 i have the same problem. when i had my extractors fitted the guy noticed the rattle and said it was to do with the gearbox being to tight??
i had heard it before but never paid much attention to it until he brought it up. so took it the dealer told them what was happening and when it was happening, of course couldn't get the rattle to replicate on the day it was in, even while i was there. but the guy at the dealer found a few other things, can't remember off the top of my head and seemed to fix the rattle.

anyway, after i left the dealer i didn't notice the rattle again until recently, and wasn't occuring all the time... its not as noticable as it was before, but that could be due the exhaust been louder now, but today after reading this thread decided i would try and see if i could capture the rattle on video... and i have managed to do so.

have a look at the link below and tell me if this is the same noise u are getting.

YouTube - clutch/gearbox rattle (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J3PDlfIr6LA)

[SSV8TE]

Awsome stuff RATSKIN. That is exactly what the forum should be about. Good valuable information. Mine has had this clutch problem and i have a fidanza lightened flywheel and ls7 clutch and pressure plate.
This sticky pedal thing gives me the sh1ts.
I have heard about the vz conversion to fix the prob and from what you have posted sounds like the problem will be solved.:goodjob::goodjob:
Good stuff,


Andy.

[redvess]

Having fun with my clutch at the moment as well. Mines a bit different of an issue and I think the clutch is just about shot. Basically 2nd, 3rd or 4th gear when it is fine up till about 3500rpm and occassionally if you got over 2/3 throttel is just slips and gets to redline real quick. No smoke or anything like that but after that the pedal is like concrete, hard to push in again and then after that change it takes up really close to the floor and the last 50% of pedal travel from the floor is really light and springy.

Had a few mods done to the car, full exhaust, CAI and tune so I was expecting this at some point, right before Xmas was not the ideal time. Took it into the closest dealer where I Have had it serviced a couple of times here bayside in Melb and asked them about it.


hey mate is the holden dealer you took it to Bay City in Frankston? they're the one's I bought my car from and have handled my warranty issues but each time I've told them about my clutch woes they've given me the standard "couldnt replicate fault" just wondering what happened with your story if you got it replaced under warranty and if it was Bay City that did it. mine is giving me the $hits now and needs to be fixed

[nthnbeachesguy]

I think my issues have been resolved somewhat. Earlier I made reference to the clutch slipping badly and the pedal being rooted after it happened. I drove the car to Sydney nursing it and took a further trip up to Forster while I was there. On the way there it slipped really badly, to the point where I thought it might s##t itself halfway there. On the way back the clutch in terms of grip seemed fine but the pedal on cold start would have 50% free travel before it felt like it was taking up any sort of hyrdaulic pressure. After 75% depression it would disengage and then would travel back to 50% and stay there until given a bit of right foot and then it would pop out all the way. After warming up the pedal would pop out every time but still have the 50% free travel.

This continued with normal grip but funny pedal until lately. Up until last week the pedal would stay at mostly 50% travel but the it wouldn't slip anymore. Took it down to Chev's for scheduled servicing and asked him to take a look at the clutch. They ran into some problems trying to bleed the lines and traced it back to the master cylinder, in technical terms it was rooted. The car got taken down to the dealer where the master cylinder was replaced under warranty. That was last week around Wednesday and since then the clutch has been back to 100%. Went surfing down Phillip Island over the weekend where I had the opportunity to take a couple of runs to 100kmh out the back of the island. No standing start sideslips or flat changes or anything like that, get off the line normally and then feed in the power through to third gear and back off. Clutch felt solid, no pedal pressure changes or slipping at all.

I'm not very up on how the parts of the clutch all work together so someone else may be explain to me if a master cylinder could explain why the clutch was slipping prior to the master being replaced. I was worried that even if it was changed that the slipping would come back, so far this has not been the case.

On a side note why is it that every time you mention the clutch is slipping or there is issues people automatically assume that your driving everywhere with ESP off and the a##e end at 45 degrees? I can honestly say other than in the wet in this car I haven't done more than the odd chirp here and there, I enjoy the full grip acceleration a lot more. Might have something to do with the 3 months I spent without my VY when I was 24..................

[Ferret]

iv been told that holden are working on a fix for this issue and may be avalible in the next month or so. Has anyone else heard of this or have i just been fed some rubbish.
cheers

[ls3r8]

I think my issues have been resolved somewhat. Earlier I made reference to the clutch slipping badly and the pedal being rooted after it happened. I drove the car to Sydney nursing it and took a further trip up to Forster while I was there. On the way there it slipped really badly, to the point where I thought it might s##t itself halfway there. On the way back the clutch in terms of grip seemed fine but the pedal on cold start would have 50% free travel before it felt like it was taking up any sort of hyrdaulic pressure. After 75% depression it would disengage and then would travel back to 50% and stay there until given a bit of right foot and then it would pop out all the way. After warming up the pedal would pop out every time but still have the 50% free travel.


...

I can honestly say other than in the wet in this car I haven't done more than the odd chirp here and there, I enjoy the full grip acceleration a lot more.


sounds like the same trouble I have been having over the past couple of days. Having a c*nt of a time changing gears a lot of the time too, takes quite a push to get it to go in, particularly with reverse.

I'm the same as you, I don't wanna demolish these tyres too quick so I'm certainly not smoking them!

I called my dealer yesterday and they said that there is a revised clutch out now, I have it booked to go in in a few weeks. Lets hope it survives until then!

[redvess]

I called my dealer yesterday and they said that there is a revised clutch out now, I have it booked to go in in a few weeks. Lets hope it survives until then!


iv been told that holden are working on a fix for this issue and may be avalible in the next month or so. Has anyone else heard of this or have i just been fed some rubbish.
cheers

yep I was told the same thing today I dropped the car off to have the clutch replaced under warranty and an hour later they rang me back to say they just found out there was a revised clutch coming out that wold solve the problem if I could wait a month or so :doh: wish they knew this before I got up early to drop my car off, waste of 2 trips really, oh well at least I'll end up getting a better clutch out of it

[nthnbeachesguy]

Any ideas on which dealer, PM if needs be, thanks.

[sheeks84]

Once the stealership finally agreed replaced my torched gearbox, they still wouldnt replace teh clutch that had been sticking since day dot.
Same problems as many others on here, wont change, reverse is difficult, pedal drops to the floor.
I bit the bullet last week and had Autotechnique fit a new Clutch Industries clutch.
What an improvement. Car is a lot more responsive down low, which im assuming is a result of the new flywheel.
Has a bit of shudder but im assured after a bit more driving this will clear up.
If you have any more power than standard your wasting your time with the stock clutch, especially if you do a bit of towing like i do.

[redvess]

Any ideas on which dealer, PM if needs be, thanks.

mentioned in post 118

[msjwood]

Hi all. First post. Have been having clutch issues since getting VE SSV ute (atomic metallic-love it) 18 months ago. My wife drove it shopping two days after getting the car, and it came back with a stinking clutch. She is not a rev head, and I thought what's up. Easy to select 3rd instead of 1st in the 6 speed box. She said clutch pedal would come up to half engagement, then pull away from her foot when taking off. Same happens to me when taking off hard in 1st, but is easier to replicate problem when taking off in 3rd. Is GMH using the clutch as a fuse to stop driveline damage? I don't switch traction control off-too easy to get dangerously out of shape with 270 KW.
Spoke to dealer today (Wilson's Albion Park), said that Holdens are still working out the problem, but can't (won't) release a fix, as they are still engineering it. Not good enough in a car that has been on the market for 18 months in the case of the ute, and 2 1/2 years for the sedan. I'm sick of the burnt friction material smell that accompanies the car every time I get into it. Any one have a way of getting this fixed on a $50000 car without going to a specialist?
Regards, Doc

[PESSV]

Welcome to the VE clutch saga Doc,

Short answer is that nothing seems to happen with this. I first chucked my 2 bobs worth in many months ago. Since then I have read about people getting clutches replaced under warrantee, Holden saying things, someone’s mate saying something, the local butcher reckons he knows whats happening etc. Most of us here just seem to get the same old crap from Holden. Recently this idea of Holden now saying there is a problem and trying to come up with a fix has surfaced. I won't hold my breath. (My local dealer denies all knowledge of such nonsense once again).

They may revise the clutch setup in upcoming models but as far as owning up to a stuff up in the VE and maybe fixing peoples VE's, I don't think so.

I'd like to be more positive but there has been so much on here about this. I've said it before, unless it is safety related or there is pressure from someone with teeth, it won't happen. Holden say there is no problem so us whinging on this forum doesn't mean anything to them.

I did manage to track down the culprit I think. I think the OEM clutch is supplied by Clutch Industries (PBR). Even they won't say much about it. Don't get me wrong, I am going to put one of their other options in so I don't blame them entirely. A suspected badly machined flywheel, a basic compound self adjusting plate, a limp wristed pressure plate clamp load and a toy plastic slave all add up to what is a crap clutch setup. Take your pick, there are numerous suggestions for why it is so bad but it basically amounts to a combination of poor engineering and cost cutting.

I think the only solution is to bight the bullet and put a real clutch and the VZ slave in there. Obviously machine the flywheel or even better lightened or alloy. I'm about to put headers and an exhaust on so I won't have much choice soon. The stock clutch is simply a joke.

Because Holden are supposedly still all scratching their heads about how to fix it, even if you got one under warrantee it would probably only be the same POS. But have a go, it is always interesting to hear the next load of bulls$*t they come up with.

[Tyre biter]

...Holden say there is no problem so us whinging on this forum doesn't mean anything to them.

I made a somewhat derisory comment in another thread about Holden's magical re-appearance here in LS1 (after a few years absence) only when wishing to respond to some knobber's published article about their anticipated demise. I made comment then that I suspected they would continue to 'cherry pick' those issues they held their interest and otherwise ignore those that landed squarely in the 'too hard basket'.

I have watched this thread for some time now and having read what is contained herein, clearly and most importantly, unfortunately my suspicions seem to have been realised. There is significant evidence of a performance issue with the VE's clutch and equally there is similar evidence that GMH couldn't give a toss and this sentiment is what annoys the 'loyalists' like most here. I'd love for GMH to respond to this but in the infamous words of one Darrell Kerrigan, I accept that "I am dreaming" in that regard.

Cheers, TB

[msjwood]

Welcome to the VE clutch saga Doc,

Short answer is that nothing seems to happen with this. I first chucked my 2 bobs worth in many months ago. Since then I have read about people getting clutches replaced under warrantee, Holden saying things, someone’s mate saying something, the local butcher reckons he knows whats happening etc. Most of us here just seem to get the same old crap from Holden. Recently this idea of Holden now saying there is a problem and trying to come up with a fix has surfaced. I won't hold my breath. (My local dealer denies all knowledge of such nonsense once again).

They may revise the clutch setup in upcoming models but as far as owning up to a stuff up in the VE and maybe fixing peoples VE's, I don't think so.

I'd like to be more positive but there has been so much on here about this. I've said it before, unless it is safety related or there is pressure from someone with teeth, it won't happen. Holden say there is no problem so us whinging on this forum doesn't mean anything to them.

I did manage to track down the culprit I think. I think the OEM clutch is supplied by Clutch Industries (PBR). Even they won't say much about it. Don't get me wrong, I am going to put one of their other options in so I don't blame them entirely. A suspected badly machined flywheel, a basic compound self adjusting plate, a limp wristed pressure plate clamp load and a toy plastic slave all add up to what is a crap clutch setup. Take your pick, there are numerous suggestions for why it is so bad but it basically amounts to a combination of poor engineering and cost cutting.

I think the only solution is to bight the bullet and put a real clutch and the VZ slave in there. Obviously machine the flywheel or even better lightened or alloy. I'm about to put headers and an exhaust on so I won't have much choice soon. The stock clutch is simply a joke.

Because Holden are supposedly still all scratching their heads about how to fix it, even if you got one under warrantee it would probably only be the same POS. But have a go, it is always interesting to hear the next load of bulls$*t they come up with.

Thanks for that,
The car, VE SSV ute, is otherwise great. Maybe a decent aftermarket clutch is the only real answer. I don't take it to the drags-I just want something that works, and works well without stinking for the next day when I give it the berries. What's the best option, given that it is a daily driver? I'm fed up with the dealer's service dept saying "can't replicate problem", particularly after my issues relating to my previous car-VZ SSZ ute, and it's clunking front suspension.
Regards, Doc

[ls3r8]

I took my car in last week to have the clutch replaced under warranty, after having been told on the phone that they had released a fix, as I had posted a few weeks ago. When I dropped the car off they told me that there wasn't in fact a fix out, and that I'd been spun a story by the lady on the phone. They said that they'd have to give HQ a call because while they knew that they'd been instructed to put VZ clutches in them previously, this wasn't the case at the time.

Upon picking the car up nothing had been done, and they said that they had called Holden only to be told that they were still working on a fix. They did say that it is suspected to be a faulty self-adjuster. Needless to say I was less than impressed.

It's happening from time to time on upshifts and now even on downshifts that drop it into high RPM. I feel that I need to baby it now, which is pretty frustrating. Why would anyone buy a 6+L, 300+kW V8 to take it easy all the time?

[Martin_D]

This has been a constant problem in some cars since 2006....dont expect a fix now as if it was going to happen it would have 3+ years ago when VE was released :teach:

[planetdavo]

Holden are requesting detailed info from dealers about problem cars to get to the root cause. As per usual, performance modified cars and cars obviously flogged aren't considered representative of the fault, so aren't included in the reports.

[planetdavo]

This has been a constant problem in some cars since 2006....dont expect a fix now as if it was going to happen it would have 3+ years ago when VE was released :teach:
Holden have developed a fix for this issue now, and it does not involve a redesign of a certain component some people believe to be the cause of the issue.
As parts need to be produced, don't go hassling your local dealers just yet, as availability wont start until mid year.

[PESSV]

Just booking mine in for an oilleak before headers/exhaust goes on, looks like a front seal. I asked about the clutch and got this back.

"Holden are aware of the issue yes, although a fix has not been released. It is due to be tested and released to Holden dealers mid this year."

I doubt it will amount to a recall or anything, they will just fix any that can be "replicated". I wonder what the fix is.

Mine is actually behaving OK at present. Depends on how you launch it. They will not hack huge revs and dump it but medium revs and a reasonably quick release will light the rears. Don't know whats happened to it, I am doing a lot of traffic driving at present but treating it right. Maybe they like being used a lot, it may have bedded it in and cleaned the faces, who knows. If I belted it more it would probably play up again.

[bwhinnen]

Holden have developed a fix for this issue now, and it does not involve a redesign of a certain component some people believe to be the cause of the issue.
As parts need to be produced, don't go hassling your local dealers just yet, as availability wont start until mid year.

It was mentioned at my last service as I was raising the issue of the clutch sticking to half way. They said that a fix was at least 12 weeks away (that was about 2 weeks ago).

Thanks for the confirmation planetdavo...

[Roly]

Happened to me yesterday for the 1st time.

LS3 - 15000kms

Pedal half way up on a quick take off and clutch slipping.

With a couple of pumps with the aar in neutral and it came back fine.

Load tested the clutch today in 5th and no slipping.

Will call HSV tomorrow. :(

[aedeau]

Happened to me yesterday for the 1st time.

LS3 - 15000kms

Pedal half way up on a quick take off and clutch slipping.

With a couple of pumps with the aar in neutral and it came back fine.

Load tested the clutch today in 5th and no slipping.

Will call HSV tomorrow. :(

mine was replaced at 10,000kms. done 5,000kms with the new clutch and it's fine now. It's a bit clunky when the car is cold, but once it warms up shifts nicely. :) One thing I noticed with the new clutches is that the pedal feel isn't as smooth and consistent as the old one. The tech guy said there's some counter weight in it or something. But I noticed straight away, as I stalled it driving out of the service dept :confused: Also, the take up point of the clutch is a lot higher than the original. It's now about 1/2 way up.

[Roly]

HSV Service Foreman said there is a technote due out in late July to fix this.

They are putting a new clutch in mine in the interim.

[Excellent]

Holden have developed a fix for this issue now, and it does not involve a redesign of a certain component some people believe to be the cause of the issue.
As parts need to be produced, don't go hassling your local dealers just yet, as availability wont start until mid year.

Do Holden wait 3 years before acknowledging that there actually is a problem or do they take that long to design a fix? :confused:

[Uwish]

Mine is on the waiting list for the fix.
Hopefully they replace the clutch aswell.
Fingers crossed it works.

[chillicatqld]

This don't sound good... especially now I have just ordered a Sportwagon SSV.
Hopefully it takes a while to build and they fix the problem before this time!!!

[chillicatqld]

anyone had a fix on this yet?

:confused: anyone?....

[Ron SS]

I was told yesterday that mid August is the new date. The problem is the bits are made in America and the supplier understandably is worried that he will not get paid. New kit includes flywheel, clutch plate, pressure plate and a new master cylinder push rod. Note also that the new slave has a bleed nipple extended outside the bell housing so that you can bleed it easily (about time too). Once you get on the dealers list, they will call you when the new kit arrives. The cause being that the self adjusting mechanism was getting "cocked" and jamming on the serations.

[MickmeMate]

mine was replaced at 10,000kms. done 5,000kms with the new clutch and it's fine now. It's a bit clunky when the car is cold, but once it warms up shifts nicely. :) One thing I noticed with the new clutches is that the pedal feel isn't as smooth and consistent as the old one. The tech guy said there's some counter weight in it or something. But I noticed straight away, as I stalled it driving out of the service dept :confused: Also, the take up point of the clutch is a lot higher than the original. It's now about 1/2 way up.

WOW! 1/2 way up take up point try! driving my VYII SS the take up point is about 3/4.

[planetdavo]

Do Holden wait 3 years before acknowledging that there actually is a problem or do they take that long to design a fix? :confused:
It takes FAR less time for some d!ckhead drivers to destroy a part than it takes a manufacturer to eliminate said d!ckheads from the fault pool and design a new part for people that actually can drive ok...:flip2:

[Djbarnstar]

It takes FAR less time for some d!ckhead drivers to destroy a part than it takes a manufacturer to eliminate said d!ckheads from the fault pool and design a new part for people that actually can drive ok...:flip2:

Ummmm. It's obviously a major fault with so many purchasers dissapointed with an inferior product. If holden want to keep their loyal consumer base they need to come up with something that can hold the power outputs they promote.

[bonners]

Exactly. I hadn't had my car a month when the pedal stuck half way out. Fail to see how this makes me a dickhead driver.

On a car that is Holdens hero sports car mine has a suss clutch and they use brakes essentially off a base model. Not really good for a 2tonne car with that much power. I know the clutch is a problem across the board but just my opinion on the SS

[sheeks84]

Just to add my two cents worth, the sticking issue rears its head even when not driving aggresively. Every time i tried to take off up a hill with my boat on the back, the pedal would suck itself to the floor and i would be damn near stranded. Even now, with an upgraded clutch, i still have troubles.
Oh, and i had the problems within the first 2000kms of driving the car.

[nthnbeachesguy]

Can't even remember what I posted earlier in this thread but with almost 60K on the clock my stock clutch is pretty much farked. The last couple of days the engine warning light has come on as the ECU has a fault registered that the clutch is not fully depressing nor returning to proper place. Not hard to believe when the clutch pedal travel is about 3-4 inches. I have bitten the bullet and dropped it in at Chev's for it's 60K service and brand new Mal Wood Option 3 with new flywheel, VZ slave and braided lines.

The clutch has been playing up for a while now, slipping and the rest of it on and off so the car would have been lucky to 4500rpm and it's been getting babied for some time. Should be like getting a power upgrade or something when I get it back this arvo so I'm looking forward to it. As I explained to Rob, I have never sidestepped the clutch or flat changed, never been to the track and it only ever gets a decent squirt in second gear on freeway onramps so it's not like it's had a real hard life.

Been to Holden a couple of times about it, last time was this week when the engine light come on, every time been told that the clutch is not a warranty job and there is no fix for the pedal issue either. This week I was charged $50 for the pleasure of an apprentice plugging the Tech 2 in to get the code, a diagnostic charge I was told. I asked the guy in service what the stock clutch replacement would cost, he didn't know exact figures but said somewhere between $2500 and $3000. Yay, for a stock clutch with no flywheel I can pay more than I am now for a decent clutch. Will let you know what its' like when I get it back.

[planetdavo]

Ummmm. It's obviously a major fault with so many purchasers dissapointed with an inferior product. If holden want to keep their loyal consumer base they need to come up with something that can hold the power outputs they promote.
Understand that.
What you need to understand though is that many people are seriously shithouse drivers that seem intent on destroying things, yet somehow think they are the next Jamie Whincup! :eek:
Manufacturers have to weed out the crap drivers destroying things before they (a) can acknowledge a fault, then they have to (b) design modified parts, (c) test these parts for a fix, (d) possibly redesign the parts further again and re-test, then once approved by engineering, (e) build enough parts to repair faulty cars as well as build enough modified stock for all new vehicles to be produced.
This is not a quick process for massive companies. :teach:

[nthnbeachesguy]

Got new option 3 clutch put in yesterday, turns out that despite telling me otherwise the holden dealer had not replaced the master cylinder as i was told which was the reason i continued to have problems with the pedal. At some point wether it was from holdens effort or something else the slave cylinder boot had pretty much dissappeared and there was clutch fluid all over the clutch plate effectively farking it.

When is was pulled out it didn't look to bad so somewhere down the line the slve cylinder had shit itself rendering the plate useless. You can bet your life that if i had taken it to the dealer near home they would have just told me the clutch was stuffed and not warranted and charged me for replacement.

As it was chevs had to order a new master to go with the vz slave that was already going in. I'm of the opinion now that if your going to do anything to your car you might as well right off any engine and driveline warranty, anything they do under warranty they are just as likely to fark as fix. Apart from that the clutch is the one thing thats gunna break before anything else and they don't warrant it anyway.

[planetdavo]

How typical of numerous internet forum members to slag off Holden on this issue when the modified genuine parts haven't even been fitted to fix it under warranty at no cost...:rolleyes:
For the people that have difficulty learning, driveline components that have been "abused" by people that can't comprehend "mechanical sympathy" will OF COURSE have warranty rejected. As they should.

[nthnbeachesguy]

How typical of numerous internet forum members to slag off Holden on this issue when the modified genuine parts haven't even been fitted to fix it under warranty at no cost...:rolleyes:
For the people that have difficulty learning, driveline components that have been "abused" by people that can't comprehend "mechanical sympathy" will OF COURSE have warranty rejected. As they should.


You have a big problem with your customers dont you? Honestly to listen to you most people would beleive that everyone that buys a Holden is incapable of driving and even those that are dial up 5000rpm before sidestepping the clutch at every red light.

Forgive me for my current attitude to holden dealers but when they tell you they have replaced something under warranty and upon further inspection it is patently obvious that they have flat out lied, it tends to give one the shits. The car has not been abused as was witnessed by the state of the clutch plate once it had been removed from the car, nuthin wrong with it, was due to a failure of the slave or holdens compressed air bleeding of the clutch that lead to clutch fluid all over the plate rendering it useless.

EVery time I have been into this one dealer I have been told that a clutch was generally not a warranty issue unless it was a flat out part failure. It was up to a holden engineer to assess if this was the case or not. If in the engineers assessment it was abuse or "normal wear and tear" it was my dollar and I would be paying for the labour to remove and inspect the part and if I wanted to replace it, be charged for an OEM clutch with the knowledge it was just as likely to happen again. Decided I would rather just deal with it till I had the money to do it once and do it right.

[Excellent]

How typical of numerous internet forum members to slag off Holden on this issue when the modified genuine parts haven't even been fitted to fix it under warranty at no cost...:rolleyes:
For the people that have difficulty learning, driveline components that have been "abused" by people that can't comprehend "mechanical sympathy" will OF COURSE have warranty rejected. As they should.

The clutches are designed by accountants at Holden. If they were designed by engineers, this thread wouldn't be as long and as grieving as it is. You seem to forget that the clutches are operated by ACTUAL owners. It's not an internet myth which you seem to allude to. Not every owner wants to abuse his/her vehicle as they are quite expensive to own.

[SUX350]

How typical of numerous internet forum members to slag off Holden on this issue when the modified genuine parts haven't even been fitted to fix it under warranty at no cost...:rolleyes:
For the people that have difficulty learning, driveline components that have been "abused" by people that can't comprehend "mechanical sympathy" will OF COURSE have warranty rejected. As they should.

planetdovo=:jerk::jerk::jerk::jerk::jerk::jerk:

[CBH Senator]

This thread has sort of got stuck. Any fixes known yet?

Can I ask someone with more knoweldge than me, if this clutch issues would be relevant for one of the newer TR6060 manuals in the SV08.
Do they use the same clutch?

I beleive this happened to me the other day (clutch sticking half way out - but its only happened once so far).

Thanks
CH

[msjwood]

Hi all. My patience and my clutch are finally worn out! Just tickle the throttle at 2500 RPM in 3rd or 4th and it acts like an old auto-slips and won't change down! Car is Nov '07 VE SSV ute, 24000km, daily driver, one burnout done, rear tyres replaced at 20000km. Maybe it doesn't like my driving style-although the clutch in my VL Calais (had an EFI V8 put in with a T5 manual behind it) lasted about 70000 km before needing replacement. Scared to drive it now, as I have a gentle hill to climb on the way home-about a 1 in 10 grade up Mt Keira Rd. Will be calling Wilson's Holden (Albion Park) tomorrow to get their thoughts. They have already told me that Holden are aware of the clutch issue, just waiting for a factory fix-supposed to be out mid year. Will keep you informed of progress.
Regards, Doc :(

Hi all again. Just a little aside. Plenty of posts mention a braided line. I could understand this if we were talking brakes, where very high line pressures result, and lots of heat. Why would this be such an issue with a clutch?-heat maybe, but nowhere near the pressures that brakes experience. I guess if you're going to replace everything, then a braided line would be a given, as they're cheap compared to the mechanicals, and you can't get at it without pulling the gearbox off anyway-if everything I've read is right.
Regards, Doc

[planetdavo]

Looks like I've upset two or three ladies recently.
Oh well. Truth hurts sometimes.


This thread has sort of got stuck. Any fixes known yet?

Can I ask someone with more knoweldge than me, if this clutch issues would be relevant for one of the newer TR6060 manuals in the SV08.
Do they use the same clutch?

I beleive this happened to me the other day (clutch sticking half way out - but its only happened once so far).

Thanks
CH
The thread has got stuck CH because there have been delays in the new parts arriving, primarily from the US. The parts I mentioned earlier in the thread are the known fix within Holden. There will be a breakpoint from which the new parts have been fitted, but only your VIN and access to the bulletin will answer whether yours has these fitted ex factory.

[cnnonyx]

Sigh.

New SSV Ute owner.

Bought it earlier this month.

Took off real aggressively the other night, nothing, just big revving and thats it .... real slow take off, off the mark. No wheel spin.

Reading this thread has got me worried, very, very worried

:(

[msjwood]

Hi all. New OEM clutch fitted by dealer (Wilson's, Albion Park), under warranty. New flywheel, bolts and pressure plate assembly. Old ones looked like someone had had a blowtorch to them-high spots and blueing all over both flywheel & pressure plate. Wasn't told if new items are the same or a redesigned kit. Feel is completely different-light, no shudder, take-up point lower (expected) and no slight bearing noise when in neutral-which would go with gentle pressure on pedal, but not depressing it. The original clutch never felt like this-maybe I just got a bad one-either that or my driving style is s**t. We'll see how it performs over time.
Sometimes the dealer does do the right thing-or they want to keep a customer who has bought 3 SS Commodores in 3 1/2 years.
Regards, Doc

[cnnonyx]

Good news msjwood.


I also have good news - last night, showing a friend my new beast, he encourages me to light up the tyres. I warned him that it probably wont work, clutch isnt working well (or HASN'T worked) with a high rev dump ......

Still tried anyway.

BOY did this thing go sideways, blaze up the street, and leave me with this funny shaking feeling in my hands that lasted a good half hour afterwards.

Awesome.

Still not confident about the clutch though ....

:(

But things look promising!!

[forman]

I spoke to the service manager today he said they are wating on the pedal box to come in.then they will be calling affected car owners .

[jai]

Is the master some how integrated to the pedal itself? I figured it might be since there would be no reason for a remote resevoir otherwise.

My clutch has been awesome since I extracted what grubby fluid I could using a syringe 2 weeks ago. I have since noticed its all black again so time to do it all over again.

Mind you, I have upgraded to an Xtreme Clutch & Flywheel and had crappy pedal feel after about 1000km... it MUST be this crap factory fluid... its always been an issue since day dot. Just using some castrol DOT4 fluid now.

JK

[planetdavo]

it MUST be this crap factory fluid... its always been an issue since day dot. Just using some castrol DOT4 fluid now.

Holden brake fluid is also available in about 20 other brand names, including Mobil, PBR, Shell, and Castrol...
Any major brand under $10 for a 500ml bottle is the same brake fluid from the same source, just the dye colour may differ.
The black colour is generally just a reaction between the "rubber" and the alloy, but is more cosmetic than anything.

[Tyre biter]

I had mine in for it's 15k service this week including a few warranty issues including the clutch fix.

When picking my car up, the dealership (Commonwealth Motors) said there is no Service Bulletin/Techline on the issue; "Checked Holden technical & there have not been any parts sourced for a different clutch assembly."

To PD, or perhaps any others in the know, what is the definitive position on this problem, ie: Has Holden issued a Service Bulletin/Techline or not? Just that I'd like to learn if my dealer is being up front, BS me or simply is out of the loop and in the dark like just like me. If there is a Service Bulletin/Techline, does anyone know a Reference No, or something to better assist my Service Dept please?

Regards, TB

[planetdavo]

I had mine in for it's 15k service this week including a few warranty issues including the clutch fix.

When picking my car up, the dealership (Commonwealth Motors) said there is no Service Bulletin/Techline on the issue; "Checked Holden technical & there have not been any parts sourced for a different clutch assembly."

To PD, or perhaps any others in the know, what is the definitive position on this problem, ie: Has Holden issued a Service Bulletin/Techline or not? Just that I'd like to learn if my dealer is being up front, BS me or simply is out of the loop and in the dark like just like me. If there is a Service Bulletin/Techline, does anyone know a Reference No, or something to better assist my Service Dept please?

Regards, TB
It is on several Service Foremans handouts and on-line through Global Connect over the last few months.
It is not on a service Techline yet, only the foremans info. If you asked an advisor, they quite probably didn't know about it, as, since the new pedal isn't available yet, it is not in their interests to start promising a fix when the parts have been delayed.

[Tyre biter]

It is on several Service Foremans handouts and on-line through Global Connect over the last few months.
It is not on a service Techline yet, only the foremans info. If you asked an advisor, they quite probably didn't know about it, as, since the new pedal isn't available yet, it is not in their interests to start promising a fix when the parts have been delayed.

Very kind of you PD - thank you for the information. To stretch the friendship, any idea yet as to if/when the fix might be issued by Holden or is it still something well and truely 'in the works' as it were?

Cheers, TB

[planetdavo]

Very kind of you PD - thank you for the information. To stretch the friendship, any idea yet as to if/when the fix might be issued by Holden or is it still something well and truely 'in the works' as it were?

Cheers, TB
The clutches have arrived in recent times, but I'm not sure of the pedal's outlook. It was delayed again, but I've been too busy catching up on post-holiday work this week to know more on the topic. It's coming, but production line requirements often take priority, for fairly obvious reasons, until the volume of parts ramp up enough to supply the parts network.

[QalaQ]

hi guys

I'm really confused, I have VE HSV R8 with 275rwkw (375rwhp) and planing for +400rwkw in future

the option that I have are: Textralia X-Grip, Xtreme Clutch (I don't know the exact model) and Exedy (also I don't know the exact model)

I'm 70% convinced to go for tex because I read a lot about how it's friendly and close to stock clutch's feeling but it's just one plate and not sure if it will handle 400rwkw !

any advice from experience

appreciated

[planetdavo]

hi guys

I'm really confused, I have VE HSV R8 with 275rwkw (375rwhp) and planing for +400rwkw in future

the option that I have are: Textralia X-Grip, Xtreme Clutch (I don't know the exact model) and Exedy (also I don't know the exact model)

I'm 70% convinced to go for tex because I read a lot about how it's friendly and close to stock clutch's feeling but it's just one plate and not sure if it will handle 400rwkw !

any advice from experience

appreciated
Do a search on these brands.
There are dozens of threads on them. The mods will close it down if you start another one.

[aedeau]

took my car in for a couple of warranty issues yesterday (suspension and gearbox). I also asked about the status of the new clutches. According to the tech guy I spoke to in the service dept. he thinks they're staying with the VZ clutch kits and not going to be replacing E1 HSVs with a 427 clutch. I've already had my VZ clutch kit installed at about 10,000kms but not overly confident about how it'll hold up over time.

[statesy]

I have a 07 R8 and mentioned the clutch sticking to the local dealer, they informed me that a fix will be out soon and it involves a new clutch box, the only thing I can gather is they are talking about the bracket that the clutch pedal bolts to. Either that or they were talking :spew:. any idea's?

[QalaQ]

Do a search on these brands.
There are dozens of threads on them. The mods will close it down if you start another one.

I did search but I couldn't find answer of my qoustion and every thread or person explain his sit up and I want someone to tell me with my engine power which one will be good for me.

also as you can read I'm from UAE so English is not my native language and I can't understand all thing.

I just need help from the country that I bought the car from !

[planetdavo]

I did search but I couldn't find answer of my qoustion and every thread or person explain his sit up and I want someone to tell me with my engine power which one will be good for me.

also as you can read I'm from UAE so English is not my native language and I can't understand all thing.

I just need help from the country that I bought the car from !
I'm actually trying to help you, but...
You have chopped your own different question into this thread. Your question does not relate to the VE sticking clutch issue. Please understand that so that this particular thread does not get sent off topic, or closed down due to asking a popular question asked many times before! There has already been a bit of difficulty understanding the difference between the LS7 and the non LS7 clutch in this thread, so it doesn't need further distractions.
All I will add otherwise is that if you ask 10 different people which clutch suits your question, you will be recommended 3 different options.
There is no "perfect" answer, as clutches are like oil and fuel questions. Many "enthusiusts" have their "favourites".


took my car in for a couple of warranty issues yesterday (suspension and gearbox). I also asked about the status of the new clutches. According to the tech guy I spoke to in the service dept. he thinks they're staying with the VZ clutch kits and not going to be replacing E1 HSVs with a 427 clutch. I've already had my VZ clutch kit installed at about 10,000kms but not overly confident about how it'll hold up over time.

They were NEVER going to fit 427 clutches as a replacement.
Holden were redesigning the 92161753 kit for VE, and in the interim, were approving the fitment of the 92067954 VZ kit.
The redesigned 92161753 has now been released, but we are waiting on the pedal fix for the full cure.

[Tyre biter]

PD,

Would you be so kind as to keep any eye on the pedal kit release and when done, post again in this thread or failing that, issue me a PM please?

Thanks also for the Part Numbers - I imagine they will help with my dealings with the dealer who seemed very much 'in the dark' about it all.

Regards, TB

[deans ute]

a quick question, i've only just bought a 06 VE clubby from a local (ford dealer, believe it or not) dealer and it has been suffering this clutch issue, is it better to take it back to holden and get them to sort it? or take it to the dealer i bought it from and let them fix it or would they then take it to holden anyway?
The dealer i bought it off included a 4 yr warranty & i've only had it for a month & a bit if that sways the decision?

Also, is it the same issue..when getting stuck into the loud pedal, the clutch stiffen's?
hope these aren't 2 stupid a questions, just hate knowning where to start.

[HSV8YA]

I spoke to a dealer on wednesday and was told they are trying the new clutch kit out for the VE's in a race class called Production car
Can anyone confirm this as holden motorsport are workin together to resolve clutch issues with this class ?

[planetdavo]

Holden released a Techline today relating to this issue.

At this point, it only relates to 8.5, 9 and 9.5 model year V8's, and involves fitting a different clutch kit to the 92161753 or 92067954. It also MUST have a different design pedal assembly fitted, or the new clutch will fail. The problem is premature wear to the self adjuster mechanism of the clutch. Model year 7 or 8 (not 8.5) will be dealt with later, as some different parts are required.
IMPORTANT NOTE: There is a very specific testing procedure for this issue, as most VE's aren't affected. Attempts to get the new kit and clutch pedal fitted without a fault specific actually existing in this area will be rejected.

[ralcool]

So I'm in the smallest room in the house, reading an old MOTOR mag.
June 2008, reviewing the (then) new LS3 HSV's.

Page 46 states ".... the driveline's only Achilles heel in coping with the LS3's energy. Just one full-noise launch resulted in the pungent stench of hot clutch lingering in the cabin."

Must be depressing being a Journo trying the aussie product against foriegn makes, and getting a result like this.

So, I can spend north of $60k and get this result from a modern car.

I guess this problem is finally officially not in our heads right?!

This "Very Specific testing".. does it involve dropping the clutch at the dealership by a more qualified 'Holden Approved' driver eh?! or an actual inspection of the condition of the pressure plate and flywheel for evidence of misalignment/lingering engagement.

F6 Typhoon had a butter clutch too before launch. Car makers have only been building cars for over 100 years- must be still learning?! :confused:

[JJW501]

Hello all, my first post as I too have had VE clutch problems, hence researching the problem and finding this site. Here's my details;

VE MY9.5 SS ute manual
Build date 6/09


First off, from day one the clutch lacked feel. I thought it was just me getting used to a new car. clutch never took up until pedal was about 3/4 way out

The car would get slight clutch smell when parking (ie reversing back and forth releasing the clutch at IDLE only) and when shifting down throught the gears when you didn't match engine revs to road speed EXACTLY

One day i tried to do a hill start. i was being very careful as i knew i was driving apowerful car and didn't want to cook the clutch. i stalled it using about 1100rpm, so had another go using about 1300rpm. i got clutch shudder and a terrible clutch stink in the car. i was not happy.

The car developed a clutch shudder that stayed and slowly got worse. Car now has 2000kms on. i went to holden and they booked it in

by the time i take it in for the clutch inspection is has 3000kms and cltuch is getting slowly worse. keep in mind it didn't slip under load.

Also, i had a VY manual that i bought new. i sold that ute with 176,000kms and ORIGINAL CLUTCH. history of racing motorcycles, go karts etc. I treat this vehicle as a road vehicle, not a race car.

This vehicle has not got a tow bar fitted and has not had more than a motorcycle in the back as a load, and has NEVER had the clutch dropped, done a burnout etc.

Holden fitted a new clutch. they said the one they took out was not getting full contact for some reason, so replaced it under warranty free of charge.

The new clutch takes up from the the floor, feels much better in that regard but otherwise i have NO CONFIDENCE in this unit as it also gets a bit smelly with only slight acceleration and a hill start. I would also say that this clutch lacks feel.

The new clutch developed a violent shudder. it did this a few times, always with a cold motor. i started reading here about the master cylinder woes. i have noticed that if i start the car in neutral, and pump the clutch several times before putting it in gear and taking off it seems to feel nicer, and doesn't shudder.


Now i read here that i need a new pedal as well which is not available??? so i am driving around potentially cooking another clutch. whats my chances of Holden fitting 2 new clutches and a pedal box???

The dealer i bought the car from was very apologetic, so i am sure that they know there is a problem. also, he told me that the clutch they put in was an updated part number. only half the solution though by the sounds of things?

Overall i am pretty pissed that Holden are fitting cheap parts. Saving $50 a car at the production level costs us consumers $2000 to fit an aftermarket alternative down the track. overall I am very happy with the VE SS Ute, except for that dam clutch!!!!!!!!!

I will keep you posted on dealer, and the effect of any new parts fitted. Keep in mind the dealer i am seeing has been very helpful and i am not flaming the holden service at all!

[ignition 6ltr]

Does anyone have an update or known time frame for the factory fix on this pesky issue...? Bloody clutch!!!

[BECAUZ]

Hello all, my first post as I too have had VE clutch problems, hence researching the problem and finding this site. Here's my details;

VE MY9.5 SS ute manual
Build date 6/09


First off, from day one the clutch lacked feel. I thought it was just me getting used to a new car. clutch never took up until pedal was about 3/4 way out

The car would get slight clutch smell when parking (ie reversing back and forth releasing the clutch at IDLE only) and when shifting down throught the gears when you didn't match engine revs to road speed EXACTLY

One day i tried to do a hill start. i was being very careful as i knew i was driving apowerful car and didn't want to cook the clutch. i stalled it using about 1100rpm, so had another go using about 1300rpm. i got clutch shudder and a terrible clutch stink in the car. i was not happy.

The car developed a clutch shudder that stayed and slowly got worse. Car now has 2000kms on. i went to holden and they booked it in

by the time i take it in for the clutch inspection is has 3000kms and cltuch is getting slowly worse. keep in mind it didn't slip under load.

Also, i had a VY manual that i bought new. i sold that ute with 176,000kms and ORIGINAL CLUTCH. history of racing motorcycles, go karts etc. I treat this vehicle as a road vehicle, not a race car.

This vehicle has not got a tow bar fitted and has not had more than a motorcycle in the back as a load, and has NEVER had the clutch dropped, done a burnout etc.

Holden fitted a new clutch. they said the one they took out was not getting full contact for some reason, so replaced it under warranty free of charge.

The new clutch takes up from the the floor, feels much better in that regard but otherwise i have NO CONFIDENCE in this unit as it also gets a bit smelly with only slight acceleration and a hill start. I would also say that this clutch lacks feel.

The new clutch developed a violent shudder. it did this a few times, always with a cold motor. i started reading here about the master cylinder woes. i have noticed that if i start the car in neutral, and pump the clutch several times before putting it in gear and taking off it seems to feel nicer, and doesn't shudder.


Now i read here that i need a new pedal as well which is not available??? so i am driving around potentially cooking another clutch. whats my chances of Holden fitting 2 new clutches and a pedal box???

The dealer i bought the car from was very apologetic, so i am sure that they know there is a problem. also, he told me that the clutch they put in was an updated part number. only half the solution though by the sounds of things?

Overall i am pretty pissed that Holden are fitting cheap parts. Saving $50 a car at the production level costs us consumers $2000 to fit an aftermarket alternative down the track. overall I am very happy with the VE SS Ute, except for that dam clutch!!!!!!!!!

I will keep you posted on dealer, and the effect of any new parts fitted. Keep in mind the dealer i am seeing has been very helpful and i am not flaming the holden service at all!


Having this exact problem. Except mine is a sedan.

Its only done 3000km's now and its had its first look over.

Mechanic @Holden took it for a drive and has told me to see how it goes after another thousand Km's and that the clutch may still be "bedding" in.

If it still happens thy have said to bring it in and they'll be opening the box to see what it is.

Not happy Jan

[ignition 6ltr]

I first noticed mine when after 30,000 K's and a tune/exhaust (297rwkw) I gave it a bit of a flex. Not hard off the line, but a big rev in second, the same in third--say up to about 5,800rpm. The pedal when I went to change into forth was around half way down. I put the car in neutral and rolled for around 700 mtrs, when I then used the clutch again it was ok. Now if I give the thing a bit of a hard rev, the clutch feel doughy and heavy for maybe 15...20 seconds. I spoke to the guys that did the tune, they say for a couple of hundred, they can sort it out. Something to do with the hydraulics. I then called Holden customer service, funny enough, they had no knowledge of such a problem...(ain't controlled information a great thing!). Next call to Tremec. They of course knew of the issue. are working on the fix. A new clutch pedal, and in car mounting box arrangement and other bits. Anyway...they are on it, they are going to get the parts out to dealer soon. They also suggested a braided brake line. My argument is, if that is also an issue, it should also be apart of the upgrade/mod. well, that's my say :soap: Oh yeh, before I spet down off the soap box, It wont be a recall, as not everyone has the issue.

[PhantomVE]

I took my VE SS V (Dec 06 build/model) in to my local service dept a few weeks ago. As soon as I said to them "the clutch sticks half way up sometimes, under duress" they said "yup, we know about that. Holden's has a new clutch assembly (or past thereof anyway) and we will put you on the list when they come in and replace the old one for you".

No issues whatsoever and they were more than happy to help. I didn't even have to call Holden's national number and log the issue with them so it's obviously a known warranty problem with some models. The service manager (who drives a supercharged GTS or Clubsport, one o the two) said that he isnt sure if the "fix" will work though and that he put a Textralia clutch in (given his car prob not a bad idea really).

They have been waiting for 5 mths apparently and nothing yet so could be waiting a while................

[Djbarnstar]

I Waited 12 months for the 'fix'.

I gave up and installed a tex with a VZ slave. Problem fixed. :)

[planetdavo]

I Waited 12 months for the 'fix'.

I gave up and installed a tex with a VZ slave. Problem fixed. :)

And wallet emptied....

[ignition 6ltr]

Checked with my dealer yesterday. My SS comes out of warrantee next month and I am a little concerned that when that happens, t will be "oh well, tough luck". I have been reassured that "even though there is no note on the system...she'll be ok mate". Must say, it didn't set my mind at rest. I reckon I'll call the customer service call centre and get it lodged there. Has anyone got better info on this issue than I have? My latest is, they are still working on it... hell, you could launch a shuttle and get a man on the moon in less time than I can get a quick launch off the line!!!

[bonners]

I was told by my dealer yesterday that the techline was now in. It included new gearbox and pedal assembly. If it falls within a certain range they do the replacement. Sorry don't know what he meant by range

[planetdavo]

I was told by my dealer yesterday that the techline was now in. It included new gearbox and pedal assembly. If it falls within a certain range they do the replacement. Sorry don't know what he meant by range
I believe that should be clutch, not gearbox.
"Range" means the VIN breakpoints related to the bulletin.

[bonners]

You are probably right. I'm trying to remember the email.

Thanks for clearing up the other part. Based on date of manufacture I take it. So why do I need to take it in to be checked? They will have my VIN as I bought the car there and get it serviced

[planetdavo]

You are probably right. I'm trying to remember the email.

Thanks for clearing up the other part. Based on date of manufacture I take it. So why do I need to take it in to be checked? They will have my VIN as I bought the car there and get it serviced
It's not as simple as someone saying their car has this issue and it's automatic clutch and pedal replacement.
Holden have made it very clear to dealers that there is a checklist of tests to perform with VE clutch issues, and only after every other step has been exhausted will clutch and pedal replacement be performed. If a clutch is replaced but doesn't have the specific issue causing the stuck pedal, the dealer will be charged back for it.

[Slammer]

I have the same clutch issue
Took it into them and they said yep we know and it will be replaced

I am waiting for the part number for the new clutch pedal to be released so they can order it in
So I was told

Can anyone confirm this is the hold up?

[bonners]

It's not as simple as someone saying their car has this issue and it's automatic clutch and pedal replacement.
Holden have made it very clear to dealers that there is a checklist of tests to perform with VE clutch issues, and only after every other step has been exhausted will clutch and pedal replacement be performed. If a clutch is replaced but doesn't have the specific issue causing the stuck pedal, the dealer will be charged back for it.

Fair go mate just asking.

But considering I have had clutch problems since day one, gearbox has been out rear main seal has been done and the car still smells like burnt flesh because all the oil leaked into the clutch. I dare say I have a pretty good case of still having clutch problems.

[planetdavo]

Fair go mate just asking.

But considering I have had clutch problems since day one, gearbox has been out rear main seal has been done and the car still smells like burnt flesh because all the oil leaked into the clutch. I dare say I have a pretty good case of still having clutch problems.
Post was to inform the general membership, as numerous people have been "expecting" the replacement of all parts as described across various parts of the internet, including this thread.
It's not always these exact parts causing the issue everyone thinks they have, so Holden made it clear to dealers they wont cop excessive amounts of unnecessary modified clutch and pedal replacements.
Also, as always, abusive drivers will be weeded out and rejected in most cases...(not that there would be any on here) :hide:

[Tyre biter]

PD,

I take it the remedy for pre MY8.5 Commodores (like mine) is still in the works?

Cheers, TB

[planetdavo]

PD,

I take it the remedy for pre MY8.5 Commodores (like mine) is still in the works?

Cheers, TB
I have not seen any updates since my previous post. I will keep an eye out.

[Tyre biter]

Thanks PD.
Cheers, TB

[ignition 6ltr]

Now hear ye... I have just (again) called Holden Customer Service. The guy there said that I should call my dealer about any questions. I explained to him my extreme frustration in this entire thing. Apparently, the 06 VE doesn't seem to have a problem with htis issue. I advised him that he was worng and it does, as mine has the issue! He then said that they are still working on the fix at Holden engineering, and that I should have the problem logged at the dealer. That way, when the fix is ready (more than likely after the warrantee period) they can assess the claim and see if they will honour it. I got a receipt number from him for the call, and am going to take the car into the dealer to have them look at it. They then (as I understand it) log the issue into the Holden Tech system, and when they have enough to consider the issue an issue, they will work in finishing the fix they have been working on. If anyone can please explain this process to me, I am all ears!!!:rofl: Thanks in advance,... Ignition 6ltr

[planetdavo]

Now hear ye... I have just (again) called Holden Customer Service. The guy there said that I should call my dealer about any questions. I explained to him my extreme frustration in this entire thing. Apparently, the 06 VE doesn't seem to have a problem with htis issue. I advised him that he was worng and it does, as mine has the issue! He then said that they are still working on the fix at Holden engineering, and that I should have the problem logged at the dealer. That way, when the fix is ready (more than likely after the warrantee period) they can assess the claim and see if they will honour it. I got a receipt number from him for the call, and am going to take the car into the dealer to have them look at it. They then (as I understand it) log the issue into the Holden Tech system, and when they have enough to consider the issue an issue, they will work in finishing the fix they have been working on. If anyone can please explain this process to me, I am all ears!!!:rofl: Thanks in advance,... Ignition 6ltr
Your frustration is understandable.
As long as the exact issue is recorded on a repair order during the warranty period, it still comes under warranty, even if the fix is released after your warranty expires. The only condition on this really is that it relates to the specific issue only. You can't try to claim a different issue in the same area out of warranty and expect it to be covered. Getting a copy of the repair order from your dealer with the complaint typed on it will give you a hard copy in case a problem arises.
Yes, the early cars are taking longer to release a fix. They use different parts to the later ones, which share more in common with the current production cars, so were prioritised.
As I posted quite recently, dealers have been requested to follow a very specific sequence of checks before coming to the final conclusion. Often, "assuming" an answer wont end up fixing a problem.

[HSVKev]

Now hear ye... I have just (again) called Holden Customer Service. The guy there said that I should call my dealer about any questions. I explained to him my extreme frustration in this entire thing. Apparently, the 06 VE doesn't seem to have a problem with htis issue. I advised him that he was worng and it does, as mine has the issue! He then said that they are still working on the fix at Holden engineering, and that I should have the problem logged at the dealer. That way, when the fix is ready (more than likely after the warrantee period) they can assess the claim and see if they will honour it. I got a receipt number from him for the call, and am going to take the car into the dealer to have them look at it. They then (as I understand it) log the issue into the Holden Tech system, and when they have enough to consider the issue an issue, they will work in finishing the fix they have been working on. If anyone can please explain this process to me, I am all ears!!!:rofl: Thanks in advance,... Ignition 6ltr


This may or may not update everyone on the issue with the VE V8 clutches, but I thought I'd inform everyone on what is happening with my car. My VE GTS (307 model) is in the shop again for the 3rd time with this clutch issue. They have replaced my clutch twice already. This time around it was starting to crunch gears, so yet again, I bring it in for the same problem which may or may not have damaged the gearbox too.

What I have been told is that there is currently NO FIX for the 307 models, only the 317s. They are still "trying" to develop a fix for the older models. I have been told that the new E2 HSVs will have the Walkenshaw clutch fitted to them to resolve this issue, but they won't put the Walkenshaw clutch kit and pedal box on the older cars because it costs too much, hence the work to develop a fix that is cheaper in the end.

I have been told that almost ALL manual VE V8s have reported this issue... THIS IS HUGE!!

This morning I have just been told that only the Band-Aid fix for my car has been approved YET AGAIN, so they have been authorised to replace the clutch again with the same pathetic, weak clutch kit that has screwed up the last two times. I've advised HSV and Holden that I will not be picking up my car until it is FIXED PROPERLY!! I am absolutely livid!! I have been patient with them for 2 years and still no fix. I encourage EVERYONE who has this issue to put extreme pressure on Holden (as they will do as little as possible otherwise) to fix all of our cars as this is very, very poor form. Holden don't deserve the customers with us being treated like this. They expect everyone to have patience and be passive. I have had enough of that!! Regardless of cases being raised while within warranty, there is no guarentee that they will fix it after the fact (I was warned of this by legal council). It's been known as an issue for over 2.5 years now and they still haven't fixed the problem.

[Djbarnstar]

And wallet emptied....

No thanks to holden.

[Djbarnstar]

This may or may not update everyone on the issue with the VE V8 clutches, but I thought I'd inform everyone on what is happening with my car. My VE GTS (307 model) is in the shop again for the 3rd time with this clutch issue. They have replaced my clutch twice already. This time around it was starting to crunch gears, so yet again, I bring it in for the same problem which may or may not have damaged the gearbox too.

What I have been told is that there is currently NO FIX for the 307 models, only the 317s. They are still "trying" to develop a fix for the older models. I have been told that the new E2 HSVs will have the Walkenshaw clutch fitted to them to resolve this issue, but they won't put the Walkenshaw clutch kit and pedal box on the older cars because it costs too much, hence the work to develop a fix that is cheaper in the end.

I have been told that almost ALL manual VE V8s have reported this issue... THIS IS HUGE!!

This morning I have just been told that only the Band-Aid fix for my car has been approved YET AGAIN, so they have been authorised to replace the clutch again with the same pathetic, weak clutch kit that has screwed up the last two times. I've advised HSV and Holden that I will not be picking up my car until it is FIXED PROPERLY!! I am absolutely livid!! I have been patient with them for 2 years and still no fix. I encourage EVERYONE who has this issue to put extreme pressure on Holden (as they will do as little as possible otherwise) to fix all of our cars as this is very, very poor form. Holden don't deserve the customers with us being treated like this. They expect everyone to have patience and be passive. I have had enough of that!! Regardless of cases being raised while within warranty, there is no guarentee that they will fix it after the fact (I was warned of this by legal council). It's been known as an issue for over 2.5 years now and they still haven't fixed the problem.

You tell em Tiger. 100% Agree.

[vessloveit]

Geez I am glad I bought the auto:eyes:

[ignition 6ltr]

Ok, next update. Called Holden Customer Service (Head office). The guy there asked why I was calling, when I told him about the clutch he said to take it tot he dealer. I said that I (so far) had experienced no joy there. He listened to my story, made some noted on his computer, then gave me a reference number for the call. He then said that I should now take to to the dealer again, and get them to log it on their Tech system. Soooo today I zoomed off to the dealer. Explained that it needed to be logged on their system. The comprehensive note said "Clutch Sticks". Basic but fairly much sums it up. I am hoping that the reassurances that I have been given about the after warranty thing is good. Although he did go and ask the Service man about it, and he said that a new pedal box and pressure plate replacement are now in the pipeline. Bloody long Pipe!!!! Will keep all posted on this issue. Seems that the clutch issue is causing a (caution...bad pun warning) bit of friction..! :smilesandbanana:

[Spectrum dude]

I can say the tech to dealers does exist I read it myself today. Mine is the first to be done here, not sure that's a good thing:)

Delivered my car to dealer today to have the works done and I collect tomorrow. I must say however that it is very strict on conditions and series of vehicles that this fix is related from what little I did get to read of the tech sheet while waiting - over the service rep shoulder :bow: - so dont expect to walk in and buck the system unless its a genuine complaint. I've heard many people are on the bandwagon for a new clutch, thats black and white not caused by this issue.
1 x new flywheel
1 x new clutch
1 x new pedal assembly
1 x new thrust bearing

Top marks to my local dealer:goodjob: Never one complaint over 4 vehicles and 5 years of top service. Not bad considering the only dealer in town.

Will update in a few days once collected and driven a few km's.

[msjwood]

Looks like it's about time to take VE SSV 6M back to dealer, if this is right. Mine was one of the first SSV utes-reg Nov '07-bought after seeing the Atomic ute at the Sydney motor show, Oct '07. Have had the VZ clutch fitted to get it back on the road a couple of months ago when it became undrivable. Problem existed from new-still does, I just baby it now-most of the time.
I will also keep you informed
PS. Just an aside. I don't get my jollies out of thrashing the ute. I have a 2005 Fatboy with a Procharger fitted to do that. Concidering it's approximately 1/4 of an LS3, with 1550 cubic cm, my RWHP isn't too bad at 150RWHP, and 200nm of torque. That's with 10 psi boost, on 98 premium, 10.25 comp ratio, 211 cams, flowed heads, 53lb Magneto Mareli injectors, power commander and freeflow exhaust (V & H big radius). Unfortunately, the procharger kit for the Harley costs more than one for my ute, $8400 inc postage from HPW in Albury-Wadonga, and I fitted it myself-very easy given the quality of the parts & machining. Couldn't imagine fitting one to the ute until clutch issues are sorted. And NOW the dollar goes up-after I've bought it. Ce la vie! (Thats life)
Cheers, Doc

[ignition 6ltr]

I can say the tech to dealers does exist I read it myself today. Mine is the first to be done here, not sure that's a good thing:)

Delivered my car to dealer today to have the works done and I collect tomorrow. I must say however that it is very strict on conditions and series of vehicles that this fix is related from what little I did get to read of the tech sheet while waiting - over the service rep shoulder :bow: - so dont expect to walk in and buck the system unless its a genuine complaint. I've heard many people are on the bandwagon for a new clutch, thats black and white not caused by this issue.
1 x new flywheel
1 x new clutch
1 x new pedal assembly
1 x new thrust bearing

Top marks to my local dealer:goodjob: Never one complaint over 4 vehicles and 5 years of top service. Not bad considering the only dealer in town.

Will update in a few days once collected and driven a few km's.



Hey Specky Boy, what year/model is your VE? Mine is an '06 delivered in Jan 07....

[Spectrum dude]

WELL:)

It was picked up at lunch today, and to say I am happy already is an understatement. :goodjob: WOW I now know how bad it really was, great job by Kerry's and exceptional service.
The service rep (Graham):1peek: took me out the back explained everything that was done and even showed me the old parts etc etc. TOP JOB!:thumbsup:

Clutch is much harder than it even was from new, nice and smooth too. Feels like a different car.
No more throw out bearing noise either - comment on warranty sheet was internal fault (removed and replaced).
Lets see how it goes after a settle in period but first impressions are very good, especially under warranty at no cost. Nothing lost - if no good aftermarket I go :hide:



Hey Specky Boy, what year/model is your VE? Mine is an '06 delivered in Jan 07....

VE Clubsport 09

Bad news for 07/early 08 models - it appears there is still no fix announced yet(don't shoot the messenger)

[ignition 6ltr]

Good update Sir Speck...Glad to hear that yours is so good. It is reassuring when something goes the way it should! I also understand that they are still working on a fix for the early ones. Bugger !! But I was told that the release should be early last month (?!? What the...?) Lucky Santa doesn't have one of the early clutches fitted in his Club Sport Sled (8 over head Reindeer!)...!

[HSVKev]

Geez I am glad I bought the auto:eyes:

You are... but I can't stand an auto in a car I want at the track.

Update... Holden will NOT replace my clutch and pedal-box with anything other than "The Fix" which is 50% complete for '06/'07 HSVs. I lost my battle with them and I yelled my guts out!! :vpo:

This means that I have to baby the car until this fix is performed on the car.

Apparently all that's left to have "The Fix" ready for the older VEs is the pedal-box which is yet to be finalised. I was told repeatedly that it will be ready by December this year. I told them what I thought of that and I'm sure a whole bunch of you guys know why and have heard it all too well, that we've been told there will be a fix in the next month or so for over 2 years!!!

Just want to mention that the guys servicing my car have been top-notch and they have tried hard to convince management to fix my car for me now with the Walkenshaw clutch kit that would handle the load instead of the bandaid solution, but management just won't budge. Thanks guys for trying.

...the saga continues. Been a holden customer for 12 years, at this point I won't be buying another.

The new Nissan R35 GTR looks great and flies, but I don't know if I want to drive a Playstation. ;)

[planetdavo]

...the saga continues. Been a holden customer for 12 years, at this point I won't be buying another.

The new Nissan R35 GTR looks great and flies, but I don't know if I want to drive a Playstation. ;)
Bit of a price difference between the cars affected by this issue and a GTR...

---------- Post added at 06:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:33 PM ----------



I have been told that almost ALL manual VE V8s have reported this issue... THIS IS HUGE!!

It's not as big as you "have been told".
Yes there are quite a few, but there are also a huge amount of VE V8 manuals on the road, so sheer numbers sold makes it "appear" very common.
The same percentage in say a Citroen would be about two faulty cars...:teach:

[dutchman1986]

had my 08 ss ute in yesterday at the dealer to have it looked at/fixed again. when i picked it up, was told about the fix, and was told it was carried out.

maybe planet davo could shed some light on what the actual fix is, or if you know of any others cars being done.

i have yet to try if the problem has been fixed or not on my ute, and don't really want to. don't really like the smell of burning clutch.

cheers greg

[HSVKev]

Bit of a price difference between the cars affected by this issue and a GTR...

---------- Post added at 06:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:33 PM ----------


It's not as big as you "have been told".
Yes there are quite a few, but there are also a huge amount of VE V8 manuals on the road, so sheer numbers sold makes it "appear" very common.
The same percentage in say a Citroen would be about two faulty cars...:teach:



Yeah I know there's a massive price gap in the cars, just venting and looking at other cars out there.

I'm only passing on what I was told by a few service employees and that they were sick of the issue and how Holden was treating it's customers as they get blamed for it, I can't vouch for it's authenticity past that. My GTS is a manual on the road (with it's third clutch bandaid) and the pedal box on it's last legs... it's out there with the issue. I know everyone here loves these cars and so do I... just frustrated and want to actually experience what this car was made for is all.

[ignition 6ltr]

I think that also as the issue is not apparent (or at least the symptoms in my car didn't show) until you do put your foot down. It means that many of the people out there may have the inadequate build, but simply not be aware of it. For 30,000 kays I didn't take my car to 5,000 rpm under full throttle for 2 gears...but when I did, it was "Hey ....What The..?" So personally I feel that it would a strange problem for a model of car to have, where it only effects some percentage. It would seem to me that some may not have had the pleasure of the "Oh Sh1t....what have I done" syndrome.

That's my thoughts. Probably it should have been a recall and just be done with it. The car, (which in my case is the first Australian car I have bought in 33 years of driving) is possibly one of the better rides I have enjoyed. I am comparing it with BMW's, and other exotic Europeans. The chassis is bloody fantastic, the ride is great, needs a coin tray for parking money, and a clutch that can handle those ponies!!!

[ignition 6ltr]

Driving past my dealer today, put my nose in the door and asked if there was any news on the fix ('06 Model).
It was confirmed that there is no news, but he did confirm that an 06 Clubbie came in earlier in the morning with the same symptoms. That percentage is still rising. It is going to be a matter of finding the issue before your warrentee lapses for so many.
Does anyone have any further updates on "The Fix"...?

[planetdavo]

Driving past my dealer today, put my nose in the door and asked if there was any news on the fix ('06 Model).
It was confirmed that there is no news, but he did confirm that an 06 Clubbie came in earlier in the morning with the same symptoms. That percentage is still rising. It is going to be a matter of finding the issue before your warrentee lapses for so many.
Does anyone have any further updates on "The Fix"...?

End of December/early January.

[simon.w]

OK ... mine has been doing this repeatedly ... worse now I'm running 310rwkw ... and I don't think the dealer will consider warranty work given the engine mods.

Anyway I removed the panels under the drivers side dash and removed the spring that makes the pedal easier to push down. Then I made an aulminium bracket that is bolted under the dash and holds a tension spring which I have attached to a small hole I drilled in the pedal arm. The clutch movement is firmer ... but feels really good and returns back to its stop.

I now want to bleed the clutch fluid and replace with dot 4 plus ... the existing fluid is dirty and actually has lumps in it ... obviously from overheating.

My question is this ... I've climbed under the car and looked all around the bell housing but cant see the slave cylinder ... so it must be internal.... so how do I bleed it????

I'll let you know how the spring goes tomorrow after I've driven the car and post some pics if it works.

---------- Post added 07-11-2009 at 09:47 AM ---------- Previous post was 06-11-2009 at 11:01 PM ----------

OK ... I've fixed it!!!!

I will post a separate thread with the remedy

[jai]

wheres the thread!!! Or are you selling the fix to holden first? :)

JK

[ignition 6ltr]

Simon W, perhaps you could show GM how to provide a fix! I must say it sounds just all to logcal and simple to be a "real fix". One would think that if it has Holden stumped it should involve some piping, a hydraulic reconfugure and perhaps a small device that compensates for all of the changes made. Not just reversing the action of a spring that pulls the pedal down!!! :goodjob:

[simon.w]

Hi all. I've just posted it ... waiting for moderator to approve.

I completely redid whole thing from scratch tonight so that i could take step by step photos for you all.

Oh ... and why haven't holden done it??? I suspect the same reason they put that stupid spring on there in the first place ... because the clutch is slightly too heavy for the average punter.

[jimmym]

Good work on the fix will look out for it if my clutch start playing up nice to know someting can be done.

cheers

Jimmy

[simon.w]

I have posted this separately ... but just thought maybe it's better in here. Took the car for a serious strap this morning, with lots of standind starts giving all it has (310rwkw!!) without any sticking, slipping or smell. This will make the pedal heavier ... but not badly. My wife took out the car today and said it was fine.

OK ... here we go:

Gently pry the front dash assembly forward;
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3520/4081979425_d45e90c4f3_o.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2584/4081979505_57f1bf589a_o.jpg
Now remove the plug out of the light switch by pressing on the locking lug and pulling.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2537/4082739312_3cf14b393b_o.jpg
Put this panel aside now ... check the floor for any of the white clips that may have come loose and replace them onto the balck plastic lugs on the back for the panel.

Now undo the left hand screw in the ECU socket under the dash
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2457/4081979633_c2e058af84_o.jpg
Now gently pull the underdash panel down and out ... check for the white clips again
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2761/4081979697_7cbe0b2560_o.jpg
Now undo the two screws that hold the heater duct:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2671/4082739572_1a3d2436e9_o.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2583/4082739632_6e23343537_o.jpg
Now gently manouver the duct past the clutch pedal and remove
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2615/4082740064_9025deedd3_o.jpg
push the clutch forward with your had hand and get a large flat blade screwdriver,and leaver the circular spring out of the side holes, then pull it out of the plastic retaining clip in the clutch pedal arm
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2436/4081980073_5c25a49642_o.jpg
Now drill a 1/8th" hole just above the spring retainer cut out in clutch pedal arm
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2590/4081980401_07b7ee6578_o.jpg
Get a return spring 60mm long with it's end clips. I bought a 9/16 x 4" x 0.047 from Bunnings and kept shortening it bit by bit until it was the right length. This is the perfect return factor.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2630/4082739944_302614b512_o.jpg
Clip one end through the hole in the clutch pedal
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3528/4082740228_d6a75a7c3c_o.jpg
Now remove the lower bolt at the underside front of the dash with a 13mm spanner.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2487/4081980231_4e3031dfda_o.jpg

Now it's time to make the bracket. Get some 3/4" X 3/4" mild steel angle and cut it 150mm long. Drill a 21/64th (7mm) hole 20mm from one end. Make sure it is out far enough from the angle so that the bolt head can turn on the inside. Now drill a 1/8th" hole at the other end on the apposing side of the angle ... next to the inner angle. Now cut out a strip from that end 8mm in and 90mm long to accomodate the heater duct.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2779/4081980449_9f2cf42b15_o.jpg
Now put the duct back in place and put the left hand screw in loosely so that it still has a lot of movement but wont fall out.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2776/4081979945_fb1c4a9d3d_o.jpg
Now bolt the bracket in place, angling it back toward you, but not obstructing the hole for the dash clips. Make sure it is very tight. It's a bit fiddly getting the bolt in with the duct in place, however you can't get the duct past the bracket if it is bolted in first.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2776/4081979945_fb1c4a9d3d_o.jpg
Now clip the other end of the spring through the bottom hole in the bracket. There is enough movement in the duct and flex in the bottom plastic to see what you are doing.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2632/4082740406_7e7bf14729_o.jpg
Now screw the duct back in place
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3521/4081980767_a90c201451_o.jpg
Clip the under dash panel back in place
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2482/4082739508_ee3b25ed66_o.jpg
Put the screw back into the ECU socket
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2485/4082740528_e61a827209_o.jpg
Get the front panel and plug the light switch back in
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2615/4081980877_9e99f248d2_o.jpg
Now gently clip the panel back in place
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2499/4081980939_16137934ea_o.jpg
Job's done! enjoy a non-sticking, non-slipping, non-sticking clutch!

Good luck!

[planetdavo]

Simon W, perhaps you could show GM how to provide a fix! I must say it sounds just all to logcal and simple to be a "real fix". One would think that if it has Holden stumped it should involve some piping, a hydraulic reconfugure and perhaps a small device that compensates for all of the changes made. Not just reversing the action of a spring that pulls the pedal down!!! :goodjob:

The problem is premature wear of the self adjuster.
This "fix" doesn't actually fix the cause of the issue, only a visible symptom of said issue. All it does is pull the pedal back up, but the problem itself hasn't gone away.

[simon.w]

The problem is premature wear of the self adjuster.
This "fix" doesn't actually fix the cause of the issue, only a visible symptom of said issue. All it does is pull the pedal back up, but the problem itself hasn't gone away.

Mind did this from one week old ... so I don't agree that it's premature wear of the self adjuster

[Ron SS]

The GMH line is that the cause is the self adjuster sticking down due to the adjuster tube serrations cocking slightly and sticking. Hence the pedal stays down. A big spring to return the pedal is NOT treating the cause. The cure putt forward by GMH so far for cars made after Sept07 is a new clutch assembly, and new pedal assembly to change the pivot ratio. So far they haven't figured out a solution to the pre Sept 07 models of VE. Gee it has only been two years! This indicates that there may be some parts that differ between pre Sept07 models and post Sept07 models.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-z06-discussion/2250372-clutch-pedal-issues-how-to-prevent-and-cure.html

This link details what the Corvette guys are doing to overcome the sticking issue. The basic cause according to them is that the silly design of an internal self adjuster in the bell housing results in clutch dust getting on the gearbox input shaft, the bit where the self adjuster slides along, and this dust enters the slave under the rubber seal and makes it stick. The cure suggested is to regularly change the clutch fluid. The stupidly located clutch bleed nipple is hidden out of easy reach, hence the method suggested is to use a syringe to suck out the fluid from the engine bay filler. Doing this 3 minute job monthly helps apparently. The fluid gets a filthy colour after a few weeks and analysis of this fluid (on the link) clearly confirms that it is clutch dust in the fluid. So while we wait for GMH to get their act together, the only temporary "cure" seems to be to change the fluid often. It is unreasonable to expect owners to pay for a clutch system that clearly is not adequate for even general use.

[jai]

Interesting that the corvetts have "air" vents on their bellhousings??? (From video in the above link)

JK

[simon.w]

[QUOTE=Ron SS;1623071]The GMH line is that the cause is the self adjuster sticking down due to the adjuster tube serrations cocking slightly and sticking. Hence the pedal stays down. A big spring to return the pedal is NOT treating the cause. The cure putt forward by GMH so far for cars made after Sept07 is a new clutch assembly, and new pedal assembly to change the pivot ratio. So far they haven't figured out a solution to the pre Sept 07 models of VE. Gee it has only been two years! This indicates that there may be some parts that differ between pre Sept07 models and post Sept07 models.

Sorry ... but your theory goes out the window ... my SSV is post Sept 07.

Think about it ... if the pedal is pulled back, the drawing hydraulic action of the fluid will overcome the issue.

Bottom line is this ... IT WORKS!!!!! So the fact that shouldn't "in theory" is irrelevant.

Would love someone else to try this and let me know how you go.

Certainly agree re the fluid ... it's black with lumps in it.

One question ... if I draw the fluid out of the reservoir with a syringe and replace it, the new fluid will still be contaminated by the fluid in the lines and slave cylinder won't it?

Exactly where is the bleeder ??? I have a pdf that shows how to bleed ... but the diagram is not clear enough to show exactly where it is on the bell housing.

[Uwish]

My clutch is being replaced with the fix on the 18/11.

Can't wait. Then new shocks and tyres......

Straight to WSID!!!

[smokey777]

do all VE clutches only engage pretty well close to top of letting out? its the hardest car ive ever driven to quick shift lol

[The_Senator]

I've driven 3 VE's and all did it...

Mind you, all 3 of those (mine included) suffered badly from the "stick to the floor" problem..

I myself can say that i am disappointed that Holden have not acknowledged this quicker, and rectified. I pity the poor service departments that have to keep fending off people whom do want a fix..

my clutch is basically fq'd, so I am faced with having to wait for a fix, or pay mega $$$ to go after market... Not something i enjoy really.

[vzss05]

do all VE clutches only engage pretty well close to top of letting out? its the hardest car ive ever driven to quick shift lol

Mine engages about an inch from the floor

[smokey777]

Mine engages about an inch from the floor

ya im not having (sticking to floor issues) just seems a bit way up there mind you most manuals ive driven are 4 bangers. can the clutch be adjusted or no??

[planetdavo]

Sorry ... but your theory goes out the window ... my SSV is post Sept 07.

Bottom line is this ... IT WORKS!!!!! So the fact that shouldn't "in theory" is irrelevant.

Early and later VE both have the same issue. Delays are due to the different designs of the pedal setup. Later type was fixed first as it shares more parts in common with current production line cars, so fixing production line cars now saves them all having to come back in the shop later for this fix.
I wouldn't recommend jumping the gun bragging about the "spring fix" either. All it is doing is fixing the visible sympton of this issue, not the actual root cause of it. Time will tell if the clutch still ends up f#cked.

[Spectrum dude]

WELL:)

It was picked up at lunch today, and to say I am happy already is an understatement. :goodjob: WOW I now know how bad it really was, great job by Kerry's and exceptional service.
The service rep (Graham):1peek: took me out the back explained everything that was done and even showed me the old parts etc etc. TOP JOB!:thumbsup:

Clutch is much harder than it even was from new, nice and smooth too. Feels like a different car.
No more throw out bearing noise either - comment on warranty sheet was internal fault (removed and replaced).
Lets see how it goes after a settle in period but first impressions are very good, especially under warranty at no cost. Nothing lost - if no good aftermarket I go :hide:




VE Clubsport 09

Bad news for 07/early 08 models - it appears there is still no fix announced yet(don't shoot the messenger)

UPDATE (for the late model owners)

Been long enough now since the GM fix was done to my 09 model VE and its - ALL GOOD. :goodjob:
Have done a few very hard strip runs and also a circuit day without one hick up.

Cheers
Dave

[simon.w]

Early and later VE both have the same issue. Delays are due to the different designs of the pedal setup. Later type was fixed first as it shares more parts in common with current production line cars, so fixing production line cars now saves them all having to come back in the shop later for this fix.
I wouldn't recommend jumping the gun bragging about the "spring fix" either. All it is doing is fixing the visible sympton of this issue, not the actual root cause of it. Time will tell if the clutch still ends up f#cked.

I'm not bragging ... I'm stating a fact. And I've shared the info so others can fix their cars too. I've driven it today in hot weather, given it heaps and it has been fine.

So here's the thing ... do I continue to drive it with the fault ... putting up with it sticking every day and having to hook my foot under the pedal and pull it back ... or do I put a spring on it that has "fixed the symptom".

FYI ... If it fixes the symptom, then as far as I'm concerned it's fixing the problem. This isn't cancer ... no symptom = no problem. The clutch isn't slipping, so therfore it's working.

I'm not waiting around for a promised so called fix ... I've fixed it myself!

Here's the thing .... worst case scenario my clutch needs replacing ... BUT ... it's not going to last anyway if the pedal sticks and it slips every gear change. I haven't lost anything!

I've played around with my share of modified cars over the years ... if it was a Torana or Kingswood, then no one would question a mod that works ... but for some reason everyone is affraid of having a go at fixing anything new for fear it will mess with the way the manufacturer set it up ... something they couldn't get right in the first place.

People today need to grow some balls and have a go at fixing things the way we used to. Or as car lovers have we lost our ability to analyse problems and come up with logical solutions?

I'm happy with the outcome.

[vzss05]

Guy's, instead of starting another thread am after thoughts about my ssv. Two weeks ago clutch, flywheel and bearings replaced under warranty has were stuffed (ex gmh vehicle, clutch failed two months after I had it - no abuse on my part) My question is had new clutch in for two weeks and have done 1000klms on it since.

On the weekend attended skid pan day, which involved 2nd gear driving around the pan, with very little full throttle and mainly car control manouvers. Did a couple of fast take of in the wet, again but not full noise. Car was ok on the day and drove home fine. Today coming home from work coming a slight hill doing 60klms, car at first felt like it started to miss and shuddered. With only a klm to home drove slowly home, however when I pulled up in the driveway and put in neatural, iddled a bit rough however when I took my foot of the clutch started making a knocking noise. Will ring Holden tomorrow but any thoughts on whats gone wrong???

If it is the clutch I cant believe its failed after this:soap:

[planetdavo]

FYI ... If it fixes the symptom, then as far as I'm concerned it's fixing the problem. This isn't cancer ... no symptom = no problem. The clutch isn't slipping, so therfore it's working.

I'm not waiting around for a promised so called fix ... I've fixed it myself!

Here's the thing .... worst case scenario my clutch needs replacing ... BUT ... it's not going to last anyway if the pedal sticks and it slips every gear change. I haven't lost anything!

Just because you're not visibly bleeding on the outside doesn't mean you aren't bleeding to death on the inside...:teach:
The thing you need to realise is that the pedal sticking is a symptom of the faulty self adjuster. The sticking pedal doesn't cause the faulty self adjuster.
All I'm saying is that you shouldn't be telling the forum this DOES fix the fault. Doing so will just lead to warranty rejection for clutch failure, as the pedal has been modified without the fix having being applied.

[Spectrum dude]

Just because you're not visibly bleeding on the outside doesn't mean you aren't bleeding to death on the inside...:teach:
The thing you need to realise is that the pedal sticking is a symptom of the faulty self adjuster. The sticking pedal doesn't cause the faulty self adjuster.
All I'm saying is that you shouldn't be telling the forum this DOES fix the fault. Doing so will just lead to warranty rejection for clutch failure, as the pedal has been modified without the fix having being applied.

For something different - I agree 100% planetdavo.

Since I have had the clutch fixed on a recent model VE and had it fully explained what was the fault. I cannot support or recomend what simon has done to his vehicle for everybody. May be good for his situation but I wouldn't recommend it, as it only appears to be a band aid fix at best and likely to void warranty.

FYI - (not bagging simon) be careful if considering the same (despite the frustration in delayed GM fix) I asked Holden today about this solution for one of my company vehicles and was bluntly told if I did this - no warranty when fix is released.

Make your own decision guys?

[Lorne Mauer]

Holden released a Techline today relating to this issue.

At this point, it only relates to 8.5, 9 and 9.5 model year V8's, and involves fitting a different clutch kit to the 92161753 or 92067954. It also MUST have a different design pedal assembly fitted, or the new clutch will fail. The problem is premature wear to the self adjuster mechanism of the clutch. Model year 7 or 8 (not 8.5) will be dealt with later, as some different parts are required.
IMPORTANT NOTE: There is a very specific testing procedure for this issue, as most VE's aren't affected. Attempts to get the new kit and clutch pedal fitted without a fault specific actually existing in this area will be rejected.

How do you tell what model year you have? according to our VIN and the descriptions in the handbook about what the numbers mean, Our Feb 08 SS is a MY09...but others have said MY09 didn't start till April 08. is there any definitive way of telling?

[EXCESSV]

i really cant believe this thread is still going and ppl are still defending the pathetic fix that GM "think" it is and havent released it coz the thing doesnt work.

the clutch is way too weak for the weight of the car simple
the slave cylinder is useless simple.

how to fix the issue...if your gonna drive the car any harder than a grandmother then get an aftermarket clutch that can handle the weight and power of the car and replace the slave cylinder with a pre VE one.


i had the slip bad when it was near new. removed the clutch pedal spring and it "helped" the sticking issue but not a resolve. it is a easy work around but the pedal does feel heavier. its more responsive the pedal rather than being so gluey.

changed slave, changed clutch, put spring back in and whatever modifcations needed done all by John @ SQP and hasnt stuck once! not even slipping it hard and high rpm launches. car gets driven to work everyday and gets driven hard too....i aint shy. no issues at all even with 310+rwkw at the rears

so u can all wait till holden come up with a fix that most will get rejected coz u have either:
a) drilled holes in ur clutch pedal arm like simon
b) dealer will claim "abuse"
c) dealer will claim ur mods have affected its use
d) the tooth fairy, santa, easter bunny and other fictional characters have all been driving your car so warranty void

OR you can
a) drive it like a nanna
b) fork out the cash and get a workshop that has it sussed to install a clutch to fix this and meet your driving needs

[planetdavo]

i really cant believe this thread is still going and ppl are still defending the pathetic fix that GM "think" it is and havent released it coz the thing doesnt work.

the clutch is way too weak for the weight of the car simple
the slave cylinder is useless simple.

Sorry, in the seven whole years you've been an adult, you know everything on this subject a massive international organisation can't figure out? :confused:
Car manufacturers aren't some backyard operation like you clearly think they are, able to design a "probable" fix, manufacture samples, pass engineering, go into extensive on-road and lab testing, back to engineering for approval, tool up production tooling, manufacture quantities of stock, then send it all over from the US within two weeks of designing the fix you know!

[EXCESSV]

Sorry, in the seven whole years you've been an adult, you know everything on this subject a massive international organisation can't figure out? :confused:
Car manufacturers aren't some backyard operation like you clearly think they are, able to design a "probable" fix, manufacture samples, pass engineering, go into extensive on-road and lab testing, back to engineering for approval, tool up production tooling, manufacture quantities of stock, then send it all over from the US within two weeks of designing the fix you know!:lmao: and ur gonna sit there and tell me during this massive 1 BILLION $$$ project and what was it 7 odd years of design, development and testing that clutch sticking to the floor, axle tramp and other numerous crucial faults with the VE let alone minor ones were NEVER experienced and reviewed???? coz the way clutch sticking to the floor and axle tramp have been addressed by Holden is "what? no way we know nothing and never experienced such during our vigorous testing process. must be the way ur driving the car or the mods or the fluffy dice on ur rear view mirror thats causing it" :jerk:

come on davo i agree with ya most of the time but what your trying to feed me is utter crap.

it may not be a car company but i work for a massive international company with about 80,000+employees globally and we have contracts for some of the biggest government, mining, etc companies in the world and i know it aint a 2week process to produce such a thing. but its like us sending out PCs where the thing freezes after being pushed past 60% cpu usuage or software that we have developed that will crash after having more than 100 users use it in a mining company where one of many local offices has at least 600+ users that need the critical system and turning around to them and saying "sorry we never experienced it during testing...we will get back to u with a fix and in the mean time we hope that business critical system doesnt get you introuble coz u are gonna have a hard time of meeting ISO-XXXXXX standard and ISO-YYYYYYY standard. thanks for the multimillion dollar sum we received for delivering u the desired product/(s)"


its a fuken clutch and axle tramp....crucial to driving the car that we have shelled out a heap of money for

[planetdavo]

Everyone knows not to buy the early ones of a brand new model (except people that want to be seen in the newest toy, of course :hide:)
Think maybe the subject requires a reminder lesson. Multiple problems have occured since before man landed on the moon with brand new models. Always have, and clearly continue to do so. For all the thousands and thousands of hours of design and testing done in private and with disguised pre-production models, there is STILL no true testing format like the public flogging new cars on public roads.
I agree it's not good enough, but cars are extremely complex creatures, and they have to be made within a budget if the manufacturer is ever to get a return on investment, a fact many seem unable to understand.
If you believe Holden wont improve, buy one of the 32 other manufacturers product available...:teach:

[The_Senator]

Dave,

I do agree with you, to an extent.. Those that bought early pay the price of 'public testing'. It's a given..

I bought my SSV late in 2007.. Should i not feel some sort of 'p!ssed off' that it's now 2009 and not only is my car still suffering the same problem it did when i took it in at the 1500km service, it also *still* has no fix for it.

Should I, as a consumer of the product, be happy to sit and wait and wait, hoping in vein that a solution will be found AND a new clutch / pedal unit installed? Bearing in mind that my car has done near on 50,000km - so i am sure that Holden and it's affiliates will claim the well worn and used line of "wear" and i will end up having to cough up cash for a fix.

Now while others on here are prepared to go "full" after-market for a solution for anything up to, and in some cases beyond $2000, i can not warrant that on my car. I don't flog my car daily.. I got 43,000km from my Originally Fitted tyres - with still a little more in them. I have taken my car to the strip twice, for a total of 8 runs.. 3 of those with clutch slip. That was when the car had approx 8000km on it.. It was in no way 'flogged' at the strip, but i would admit that it was driven harder than it would normally have been.

So, here I sit in November 2009.. Still No solution from Holden (but at least an admission now that there is a problem - rather than the typical "No Fault Found" i suffered through for 18 months), and a 'possible' solution date of December.. I've had to putt around in a 'wounded' car that i am ultimately going to have to pay for a repair when it was clearly not my fault.

Do you, as a consumer and NOT a Holden employee, think that is acceptable?

[planetdavo]

Do you, as a consumer and NOT a Holden employee, think that is acceptable?
Mate, I already said just above that it's not good enough.
Holden basically introduced too many massive changes at one time, leading to a heavily overworked engineering department trying to fix everything, all at a time head office in the US was going bankrupt and not sending any money down to Orstralia to help.
These are some of the "hidden" issues people haven't thought of.
Holden could have done "an FG" , and pretty much just released a reskinned BF with a Territory front end equivalent of VZ, but does anyone really think it would have been such a good car as VE, once VE's faults are fixed?
No chance. Most things already have fixes, or the fixes are close to release. It's just taken longer than it should have.

[msjwood]

Must agree with PD here. The VE is overall a great car-chalk and cheese compared to the VZ (even if the A pillars are too fat). This, being a performance oriented forum, will show the performance oriented issues-it's a big issue to us, but probably not big in the overall scheme of things for GMH. It seems if you have an issue, and it's noted by the dealer, it will be dealt with. Clutches are not normally a warrantable item. For GMH to replace mine with a VZ unit to keep the car on the road while the fix is being engineered-at their cost-indicates to me they are serious about this. We all want the fix yesterday. Like Pantene, it won't happen overnight, but it will happen!
Cheers, Doc

[The_Senator]

Dave,

Please do not think that my 'rant' - and i can be honest with myself and say that it was, was targeted at you..

I also disagree with comments about axle tramp.. Yes it is there, but ultimately our cars where not designed to 'chuck a burn-out' - which is the only reason one is copping axle tramp. Yes it is a V8, but No it does not count as warranty issue that your car axle tramps when doing 'skids'..

You raise very valid points with your "You Ess Aye" argument that dollars where clearly in short supply.. This will get no argument there.. However that was not an "overnight" happening.. That's been ongoing for years. Don't release a car if you can't support the warranty and issue's that arise from it.

My biggest qualm is being made to pay for something that has had an EXTRAORDINARY amount of time to be fixed, yet has not. In the end, the consumer will pay..

I do feel for those people that are in the same boat, that purchased a car PRE fix, and are suffering through it, or worse, running out of warranty..

I'm mature enough to not be blinded by badge, and for the most part i love my SSV and it's daily pleasures it gives me. Just a pity that Holden can't show their customers some good will on this one.. I, for one, will seriously weigh my next purchase up very carefully.

Anyway, to those that await a fix, i hope one does come soon, so that you can again enjoy the pleasures of the car.

Oh, Dave, please keep up the info as it comes to hand.. Many people dislike your 'opinion' as it it does not serve their purpose.. Me, well, I think you bring a little bit of balance......

---------- Post added at 05:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:37 PM ----------


Must agree with PD here. The VE is overall a great car-chalk and cheese compared to the VZ (even if the A pillars are too fat). This, being a performance oriented forum, will show the performance oriented issues-it's a big issue to us, but probably not big in the overall scheme of things for GMH. It seems if you have an issue, and it's noted by the dealer, it will be dealt with. Clutches are not normally a warrantable item. For GMH to replace mine with a VZ unit to keep the car on the road while the fix is being engineered-at their cost-indicates to me they are serious about this. We all want the fix yesterday. Like Pantene, it won't happen overnight, but it will happen!
Cheers, Doc

That's great that you got a dealer to RECONGNISE the problem and deal with it. However I have had no such luck, and get the usual kiss-off-line of "No Fault Found".. Which in itself is a crock.

And, as far as "only performance drivers finding it", well my Adventra driving partner had it happen twice to her when driving my car - and she is anything BUT a performance driver. And she was just coming out of an intersection..

Anyway, i've had my little soap box, and shall, again, try another dealer that might be a little more customer sympathetic that customer brush-off..

[msjwood]

Hi Senator. The problem 1st appeared on mine when my wife drove it-also no rev head, when it was less than a week old-probably 200km on it. Remember also, that on a 6 speed manual, it is very easy to select 3rd instead of 1st when unfamiliar with the 6 slot gate (7 when you count reverse). Tried it myself, and when the car doesn't take off as expected, you slip the clutch a bit, and instant fried clutch ensues, and the pedal goes to the floor.
Once you get used to that, it always goes into 1st-but it does add a bit more stress to a clutch that really can't take it.
Cheers, Doc
PS Dealer is Wilsons, Albion Park

[ignition 6ltr]

I have to say, after looking long (veryyyy bloody long) and hard when selecting a car to buy, I looked reluctantly at the VE. As mentioned earlier I have generally had European snob cars (BMWs and the like). The VE is pretty much as good in so many respects as the much more pricey cars available. I would have thought that even though mine is an '06, and -yes- one of the firs on the road, that the much mentioned high level of 'pre-market release' testing would have ironed out an issue so critical to getting a car moving as an inadequate clutch. Hell, we have all seen photos of a VE in nice oversteer with smoking rears... you telling me no one had this issue in those circumstances. I have around 300rwkw. I do not thrash the car, and love every minute of driving it. But when I put my foot on the loud pedal, I don't expect built in mute to kick in!!! I have told my dealer, they have it on my computer log. I have called Holden and they have given me a receipt number for the call. I would be bitterly disappointed if my patience waiting for the fix is rewarded by being told it is not going to be covered. But, damn it, I do love my car!!!

[Tyre biter]

Trying to see the middle ground in this 'argument' - the issue I see is that surely, surely, surely GMH would have encountered this issue in testing - read must have - and further, the issue would have been commonplace as evidenced by what is occuring 'in the real world'.

Because of this, one is left to reasonably make the assumption the car was released as it was, ie" hang it, that will just have to do". I am sorry PD - with genuine respect to you - but I cannot believe that Holden released the car in good faith.

And this is why folks (like me) are a tad upset - it is a fault commonly known about prior to launch, or in the very least ought to have been, and that little has been done to remedy the same let alone formally recognise the same.

Yes I understand that manufacturer's release cars with known issues all the time and when doing so they break the problems into categories when assigning risk towards the same. Maybe the clutch problem fell into one of the low priority catergories but it never should have.

I digress, add to the decision by GMH not to remedy the issue prior to launch, they have now put those waiting longest for the fix at the bottom of the heap (for reasons of expediency of the company as opposed to the customer) and any reasonable judge of the issue can only recognise the validity of the poor sentiment held by customers.

Finally, I (like many I assume) are now very concerned about Holden's line toward modifications and this fault. I forecast that any warranty claim issued by me will be either rejected outright or I will be asked to return the car to standard form before the warranty issue will be considered (as I have been with other warranty issues despite the fault/s being documented before the modifications were undertaken).

Cheers, TB