Cam Help

[tuff304]

Hi Guys,

I need some advice regarding the following....

I would like to upgrade the Cam in my LS1 (VX II SS), my car is an auto too.

Can anyone please let me know how feasible it would be to upgrade the cam and keep the standard converter. I'm not looking for massive gains just something better than standard and I would like to try and maintain some longevity. I will upgrade the drivetrain components as required:

valve springs
retainers
collets
double row timing chain
maybe roller rockers / pushrods if i have too

current mods:
pacemaker 4=>1 1 5/8 twin 2.5' exhaust
3.73 gears
VCM performance CAI see link below, this is not fitted yet (http://www.vcmsuite.com.au/performance/bolt_ons.html)

its maf tuned but once the air box and cam is installed it will be Mafless tuned.

Would this mod be a waste of time, I.E. $$ vs increase in performance

I've tried searching for this mod combination and could not find the answers that I'm looking for.

Any feedback will be much appreciated.

Also what cam specification would anyone suggest.

Thanks in advance everyone.

Cheers,
tuff304

[dyno junkie]

Probably not what you want to hear but our car, which is only bolt-ons, is getting a converter fitted next week. Have had enough of a creeping forward at idle and wheel spin on gearchanges. Hopefully the converter will fix these "problems".

[tuff304]

Probably not what you want to hear but our car, which is only bolt-ons, is getting a converter fitted next week. Have had enough of a creeping forward at idle and wheel spin on gearchanges. Hopefully the converter will fix these "problems".

Thanks, how bad is the "wheel spin on gear changes?" atm i love the 1st to 2nd change with a little sideways action :)

[dyno junkie]

Spin/chirp depending on road surface on gear change from second into third, had tune backed off a bit to reduce this. This was running 265/35/18's on the rear.

I've now got 275/30/19's and it still spins going into second even with traction control turned on. Prefer to be going forward rather than slipping and sliding.

[tuff304]

Spin/chirp depending on road surface on gear change from second into third, had tune backed off a bit to reduce this. This was running 265/35/18's on the rear.

I've now got 275/30/19's and it still spins going into second even with traction control turned on. Prefer to be going forward rather than slipping and sliding.

thanks what mods do you have and what cam specs please?

if you would prefer to PM please do so.

[igniton]

i think if that is what you really wont...i would fit a comp cams xer 220 220 112 with 581 lift. it will have a good torque and power increase ...and a very slight cam lope...or the same cam spec's but with the 114 lsa..if you don't wont to hear the cam lope ...both these cams would suit your stock T/C as they can idle at 600-650 rpm's..and still retain very good if not better fuel economy .you would also need to change your valve springs to something like patriot gold double valve springs and retainers....you will hear some valve train noise as with most cam types...but the results of the cam change is worth it..

[dyno junkie]

[QUOTE=tuff304;1126051]thanks what mods do you have and what cam specs please?

2001 CV8 LS1 A4, stock cam bolt-on motor 318RWHP.

[SS Enforcer]

Forget the double row chain and get a single ls2 style chain instead. Much easier to install.

The 220 220 cam on 112 will work well with the A4 or on 114 for a better idle.

cheers

[tuff304]

i think if that is what you really wont...i would fit a comp cams xer 220 220 112 with 581 lift. it will have a good torque and power increase ...and a very slight cam lope...or the same cam spec's but with the 114 lsa..if you don't wont to hear the cam lope ...both these cams would suit your stock T/C as they can idle at 600-650 rpm's..and still retain very good if not better fuel economy .you would also need to change your valve springs to something like patriot gold double valve springs and retainers....you will hear some valve train noise as with most cam types...but the results of the cam change is worth it..

Thanks very much for the info makes my decision much easier

what kinda power would something like this make?

sorry but I'm a bit of a noob :( whats the difference between 112 and 114 lsa?


Forget the double row chain and get a single ls2 style chain instead. Much easier to install.

The 220 220 cam on 112 will work well with the A4 or on 114 for a better idle.

cheers

I wouldn't mind a little cough and spultter on idle

[igniton]

try this link ..it may help you..download cam quest its free .....

http://www.compcams.com/Camquest/CamQuest61107DownloadInstaller.exe

[tuff304]

try this link ..it may help you..download cam quest its free .....

http://www.compcams.com/Camquest/CamQuest61107DownloadInstaller.exe

cheers mate will give it ago :thumbsup:

can anyone please tell me what the standard stall converter size is for an a4

thanks

guys i have been advised by a good friend that i should use the following cam

comp cam 216 220 .525 .532 114 lsa

I was told it would be best suited to the above

[Crusty]

I vote for 220 220 114lsa with 581 581 lift, I have teh 112lsa version in my car with M6 and it drives very stock like just with a bunch more torque/power :D

[chevy1]

I found ''searching" through the forums very helpful to sort out what grind of cam and what stall to run in the convertor.:search:
The other tip I used was to go a size bigger than you first intended, I think that one has worked well for a lot of us.

[TUNDV8]

Hi Guys,

I need some advice regarding the following....

I would like to upgrade the Cam in my LS1 (VX II SS), my car is an auto too.

Can anyone please let me know how feasible it would be to upgrade the cam and keep the standard converter. I'm not looking for massive gains just something better than standard and I would like to try and maintain some longevity. I will upgrade the drivetrain components as required:

valve springs
retainers
collets
double row timing chain
maybe roller rockers / pushrods if i have too

current mods:
pacemaker 4=>1 1 5/8 twin 2.5' exhaust
3.73 gears
VCM performance CAI see link below, this is not fitted yet (http://www.vcmsuite.com.au/performance/bolt_ons.html)

its maf tuned but once the air box and cam is installed it will be Mafless tuned.

Would this mod be a waste of time, I.E. $$ vs increase in performance

I've tried searching for this mod combination and could not find the answers that I'm looking for.

Any feedback will be much appreciated.

Also what cam specification would anyone suggest.

Thanks in advance everyone.

Cheers,
tuff304

Ok mate this is my opinion. I recently have had a sonny custom cam installed. I have pretty much the same mods as you. My car is a VX SS auto, standard stall, 3.7's, twin 2.5 xaust, OTR ect ect...

Maf tuned with above mods = 223rwkw.
After sonny custom cam (22X/22X) with 25% UD, PAC 921 valve springs, chromoly pushrods = 267rwkw. (maffless tuned) A good pickup in my opinion.

Car pulls alot harder off take off and you pretty much dont even have to try to pass people in acceleration. A couple of things to note.

Since you have a stock stall you will have to use alot more braking. When you let your foot off the accelerator the car will creep forward with alot more oomf and my car even changes in to second getting up to 20kph if i just let it creep forward on its own steem. The car also will not slow down as well off its own steem. My car seems to stay at 60kph for awhile even when i have taken my foot off the accelerator... good built in cruise control haha. As well as this you most likely will need to warm the car up before driving. I usually have to warm mine up for 2-3 minutes or it will stall when selecting reverse.

Overall would i do the upgrade? Definately... car is a pleasure to drive and doesnt rock back and forth at idle uncontrollabley. Next on my list is better brakes twin 3" exhaust and most likely a stally to stop the car creeping forward so much.

Hope this helps...

[tuff304]

Cheers mate thanks alot for your help. Quick question though how long has your car had the cam and how does the auto shift at WOT? did you install a trans cooler too?

Alot of of mates are telling me not to do this and to wait and do a head and cam package with a big convertor, so at this point in time I'm still not sure.

[Black_vtss]

Hey Joe,

The power bug is biting!
Its been a while but we should catch up sometime, I got a cam and high stall done on my a few months back and I couldn't be happier with it.

[vxleather]

Hi depending how much money you want to spend as to what you do....But if it is the power bug that is drving you do it right the first time other wise it gets a little on the exspensive side pulling cams out ot put bigger ones in and pulling stalls out to put bigger stallies in...

I run a 232/234 112lsa.. a set of Dart 225 heads and a 4200 stall... It does not stall on start up, it does have a very nice mean ideal to it.. not overly lumpy though...

My first set was a 222/224 112lsa.. a 2800 stall and standard heads .. it was no smoother and i would say was definatly no faster on the street .. just need to learn how to driv ethe car with the bigger stall and cam....The right cam fitted with the right stally and diff gears as well as heads which just adds bucket loads of torque oooohhhh it feels good when you just squize the throttle......

[SS-355]

If your car is a daily driver then i would look at a set-up somewhere in between vx leather's old and new set-up (eg. 224/228 with 112-114 lsa matched with a 3200rpm converter).If your car is a weekender then a set-up like vx leather's current set-up or slightly bigger would be awsome,although keep in mind that your exhaust may become a restriction if looking at bigger cams. Imho i would not contemplate installing a camshaft without a stall converter unless it was a real baby cam.

[Oversteer]

I agree, installing a cam of any description always drives a lot better with a higher stall convertor. Even baby cams should have babyish convertors, your car shouldnt be stalling when you start (this is because you need a convertor)..even 3000+ stalls on bolt on only cars are brilliant!

[SS Enforcer]

I agree, installing a cam of any description always drives a lot better with a higher stall convertor. Even baby cams should have babyish convertors, your car shouldnt be stalling when you start (this is because you need a convertor)..even 3000+ stalls on bolt on only cars are brilliant!


I have a 224 228 114 cam in mine with a stock stallie and it drives very nicely thank you.
There is no bad manners and stalling etc etc.

If the car is stalling at start up it is the tune not the convertor. With a 220 220 114 cam it ran nicely on the stock tune idling at 550 rpm's !

Having said that a convertor will smooth out the power delivery but isn't mandatory unless your going for a bigger camshaft.

cheers

[tuff304]

thanks for all the replies guys, just a few more questions how strong are the standard drive shafts / tail shaft? is that something that would need to be replaced? just trying to find out everything thats involved in upgrading head/cam/convertor. Is there anything else that needs replacing/strengthing.

Cheers

[macca_779]

thanks for all the replies guys, just a few more questions how strong are the standard drive shafts / tail shaft? is that something that would need to be replaced? just trying to find out everything thats involved in upgrading head/cam/convertor. Is there anything else that needs replacing/strengthing.

Cheers

I wouldn't be too concerned about drive line components after the auto. Many a car with a shit load more torque than what your proposing has faired fine on stock components.

[FITZY777]

I found ''searching" through the forums very helpful to sort out what grind of cam and what stall to run in the convertor.:search:
The other tip I used was to go a size bigger than you first intended, I think that one has worked well for a lot of us.

I agree with Chevy's comment.

I thought I wanted something, so I got something a little bigger. Chevy heard mine and wanted something bigger than that !

Just make sure you have a good tuner that will ring you once it is in (after the first couple of weeks) and pop around and iron out all the little things that you pick up that are slightly different to they way he has finished the 'street/driving" tune. Dyno #'s are good while it is strapped down to a machine only !

Cheers

[tuff304]

Hey Joe,

The power bug is biting!
Its been a while but we should catch up sometime, I got a cam and high stall done on my a few months back and I couldn't be happier with it.

hey glenn nice to hear from you, yes we should catch up for sure.

What sorta cam n converter did you whack in the SS?


I wouldn't be too concerned about drive line components after the auto. Many a car with a shit load more torque than what your proposing has faired fine on stock components.

just wanna make sure before i take the plunge